1

Kinds of Cosmetics Components of Cosmetics Classification of Cosmetics About Emulsion Check points of Cosmetics

Science of Mixing!-We need to mix all the materials without any chemical reactions in general, and expect the

individual characteristic from each, and sometimes their synergistic effect as the better case.

What is Cosmetics?

2

<Kinds of Cosmetics>

Skin care Cleansing, Toner, Protector

Make up

(Decorative)

Base make-up, Point make-up

Body care

(Including

Sun care)

In-bath, UV protection, Deodorant, Depilatory, Insect evader

Hair care Cleansing, Treatment, Toner, Permanent, Coloring, Re-growth

Oral care Tooth paste, Mouth wash

Fragrance Perfume, Eau de toile

3

<Components of Cosmetics>

Water-soluble Oil-soluble

Hydrocarbon, Triglyceride, Wax, Ester oil, Fatty acid, Fatty alcohol

Silicone, Polyol, Polymer, Thickener

Surfactant (Emulsifier)

Colorant, Perfume

Preservative, UV-absorber, Anti-oxidant, Chelating agent

Water (+ EtOH)

Others (Additive, Powder…)

4

<Classification of Cosmetics>

Lotion Gel

Milk

Emulsion

O/W W/O

Cream

+ Gas Spray, Mousse Others

Microemulsion Multiemusion ---

Oil + Wax

Powder

5

Mechanism of Aerosol

6

Obstruction to Emulsion;

Sun light (UV- light) UV- absorber Heat very close to ageing Microbe Preservative Metal ion Chelating agent

| Others --- oxidation, vibration, etc.

How to formulate Emulsion;

Stability Safety Key point would be Surfactant! Difference Speciality / Functionals

Stability check ;

Odor, Color, Appearance

pH, Viscosity

Instant test – Heat, Centrifuge…

<About Emulsion>

7

Surfactant ; HLB Solubility in Water

insoluble

crude dispersion

milky dispersion with hard stirring

stable milky dispersion

almost transparent

soluble

HLB 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

<About Emulsion>

8

Phase inversion – Technique to make Stable emulsion (O/W)

and to reduce Surfactants

<About Emulsion>

Actually

Water phase

Oil phase

9

Ionic property of the materials

Anionic

Cationic

Nonionic

(Amphoteric)

Surfactant Polymer

Setting effect, Holding effect

Conditioning effect (Better comb-ability, Anti-static effect)

Better compatibility

Wash ability, Foaming effect

Compatibility with Skin and Hair, Anti-static / Anti-bacteria effect

Compatibility with any ionics, Less irritation

Cationic at acidic sideAnionic at alkali side

<About Emulsion>

10

<Check points of Cosmetics>(summary)

Stability Safety Skin (Hair) feel - Texture [light/heavy, fresh/moisturizing…] Handling - Package suitability… Favorite - Fragrance, Color, Package design… Effectiveness

11

<Check points of Cosmetics>(details)

Stability – Appearance, Odor, Color Any ingredient should be kept at the recovery rate, >90% under RT after 3 years.

[becoming World standard] Substitute way (e.g., under 40C after 6 months)

should be up to each customer. Safety Kinds/Amounts of the preservatives and the fragrances will influence (so often)

not only the stability of the final formula, but also the safety of it. Preservatives should be decided after considering the cleanliness of each raw

material, manufacturing facilities, packages and their consumers. Effectiveness Any effectiveness (e.g., SPF, Whitening effect, Anti-aging effect) should be

confirmed by each customer, according to PL concept [World standard].

Same chemicals can not always perform the same!