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Groebe's Kirchspiel Spätlese 2011 to 198329 Mar 2013 by Michael Schmidt

Y⁞ou are never too old to learn, unless, obviously, you think you know itall already. Fortunately a natural curiosity about wine has so far savedme from joining the latter category.

Mention the village of Westhofen in Rheinhessen and wine enthusiastswill smack their lips in anticipation of fine Riesling wines from suchstellar producers as Klaus Peter Keller or Philipp Wittmann. To some,Friedrich Groebe may not have the same ring to his name, but thatsays more about the modesty of the man than the quality of his wines.On various occasions I have spotted members of estates such asHermann Dönnhoff, Robert Weil and Schlossgut Diel making a bee-linefor a taste of his wines, and there could be no greater compliment thanthat.

At the VDP's Spätlese Renaissance presentation of the 2011 vintage inKöln last year, Friedrich Groebe, known affectionately as Fritz to hisfriends, sneaked in a Westhofener Kirchspiel Spätlese 2002, which Igot quite excited about, despite my age. Herr Groebe does alsoproduce quite a range of other fine Riesling, from Grosse Gewächse toTrockenbeerenauslesen, but I gathered that the Spätlese from theKirchspiel vineyard was his real passion. This impression wasconfirmed when I recently received an invitation to join a small numberof Groebe disciples for a vertical tasting of his favourite creation.

The Kirchspiel vineyard is without doubt the best site at Westhofen, atruth borne out by the fact that Groebe, Keller and Wittmann all

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produce some of Germany's finest Grosse Gewächse (dry premiumwines in the VDP classification) from this site. The middle and upperslopes of the 44-hectare vineyard open up like an amphitheatre in asouth-easterly direction, incline and exposition affording optimalexposure to sunlight. Cool winds from the north and west are deflectedby the crest of a small range of hills.

First mention of the Kirchspiel as a place to grow wine can be found ina historic document from 1348, when it was known as Kyrsbühel. In1834, Germany's foremost authority in all things wine at that time,Johann Philipp Bronner, in his treaty on winegrowing in the province ofRheinhessen and in the Nahe and Mosel valleys (Der Weinbau in derProvinz Rheinhessen, im Nahetal und im Moseltal), describes thevineyard, then still known as Karspel, as an outstanding site plantedwith Riesling and Silvaner. At the top of the Kirchspiel the remains ofover 100-year-old foundation walls suggest that this may once havebeen the location of a fort, a theory given some credibility by the factthat one of the paths of pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela goesright past the vineyard.

The core of the Kirchspiel consists mainly of 5- to 10-metre deep terrafusca, which is residual clay with a substantial content of decomposedlimestone. This soil has great water-retention capacity, and its highlime content, the share of loess and the binding abilities of the clayminerals ensure a good nutrient supply. Every year in the springGroebe will find that a fair number of boulders consisting of compactedlimestone have been pushed up from the soil to the surface by theeffects of frost. Working the soil to promote the growth of wild herbsbetween the rows of vines is an extremely tough job. The reward forthis hard graft is wines with pronounced minerality and a solidbackbone of acidity, but they tend to be quite unapproachable whenyoung, their early awkwardness often misunderstood.

Friedrich Groebe had the advantage of being able to learn from theexperience of his father and grandfather, but he also needed to bidehis time before he could put his own signature on the estate's wines.The previous generations were not known for welcoming new ideaswith open arms (and minds). In their day, Silvaner still played firstfiddle, and there was some experimentation with Scheurebe andKerner, too.

After graduating from the renowned Geisenheim wine college - todaypart of Wiesbaden University - Friedrich Groebe joined the familyestate in the 1980s and gradually began to implement his own ideas.These involved a greater emphasis on Riesling as well as a consciousdecision to reduce yields and tip the balance in favour of higherresidual sugar, at the expense of alcohol. Nevertheless, he is the firstto admit that climatic conditions were not as kind to his predecessorsas they have been to him since, and that before 2001 it was notpossible to produce a Spätlese in every vintage. He is also old enoughto remember 1980 and 1984 as years of rain, rot and an overload ofacidity.

Talking about acidity! Yes, ugly ducklings can turn into beautiful swans,a moral once again confirmed in this tasting. The 1990 Spätlese didweigh in at a spine-chilling TA 9.5 g/l, but, where some of the youngerwines were already beginning to flag, this relative oldie gave ademonstration of how valuable acidity can be, not just for longevity, butfor harmony, elegance and grace. Of course a fine Spätlese does needadequate support from fruit and residual sugar to make the earthmove. The 1983 Auslese (just 1 g/l above the residual sugar threshold,and technically therefore still more of a Spätlese) showed whathappens when acidity is the only survivor.

Another interesting phenomenon was the colour of these wines. I couldjust about get my head around how pale some of the more maturewines had remained, but was really perplexed by the youthful, almost

greenish, hue that they exhibited at the rim. Pale straw with a silverytinge is not necessarily a complexion I would associate with a 15-year-old Spätlese! Those wines with a little more depth of colour and shadesof deep yellow or gold invariably turned out to come from vintages inwhich botrytis had had a hand.

Although Herr Groebe's wines are listed by some very noblerestaurants, he is more at home in rubber boots and a weatherproofjacket than in suit and tie. His philosophy is that of a grower whopersonally accompanies his wine every step of the way, from plantingthe vine to picking the grapes, from fermenting the must to bottling thewine. He is a craftsman.

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 2011Rheinhessen 18+ Drink 2013-2026After an average summer, September and October gifted growers witha superlative autumn. Personally I would compare it to 1959; FriedrichGroebe, with a little help from the memory bank of his father andgrandfather, sees parallels to 1953. Grapes at the Kirchspiel vineyardmatured to perfection, botrytis showed itself from its most healthy andnoble side. TA 7.9 g/l, RS 105 g/l.Very pale straw, still showing some petulant carbon dioxide. Verydelicate but exquisitely fresh fragrance of apple blossom and citrusfruit. On the palate the acidity is almost restrained, but a hint ofpetillance ensures a lively performance nevertheless. The fruit is sweetand juicy and comes with wonderfully refreshing zest. This is oneprecocious baby. (MS) 8%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 2010Rheinhessen 17.5+ Drink 2015-2030Rampant rot required a stringent selection and discerning growersreduced their crop by as much as 50%. Acidity levels were the highestsince 1980/84. Grapes took until the end of October to mature, butbecause of the prolonged ripening period patient growers ended upwith high extracts. TA 9.6 g/l, RS 83.2 g/l.Pale straw, no visible signs of carbon dioxide. Very lively performerwith kicking acidity. Less of a fruit merchant, but because of the longripening period there is a great concentration of extract and minerality.Some tasters may struggle with the challenging acidity, but to me thiswine has longevity written all over it. My mark is very cautious, and ifthe development of the 1990 with its equally high acidity is anything togo by, the 2010 will become a racy stunner in years to come. (MS)8.5%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 2009Rheinhessen 17.5 Drink 2011-2024A generally warm growing season peaked with the arrival of a veryhealthy botrytis in the autumn. Many Riesling experts have declared2009 their favourite vintage, with particular praise for its fine harmonyof sweetness, acidity and minerality. Maybe it’s the old rebel in me, butI have always found that there is something smug about everybody’sdarling. TA 6.6 g/l, RS 112.8 g/l.Pale straw colour. Ripe peaches and apricots titillate the olfactoryperception. A pronounced fumy, slightly flinty minerality takes on analmost smoky character and presents a perfect foil for the exuberantexpression of residual sugars. The texture is creamy, the mouth-feel issoft, and the body shows opulent curves. For once acidity has beenrestricted to a modest corrective role. A seductive raisiny, butnevertheless fresh, finish continues to linger. Global warming honed toperfection. (MS) 7.5%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 2008Rheinhessen 17.5 Drink 2011-2020

A relatively cool growing season slowed down the ripening process,not necessarily a bad thing, as, just like Rome, complexity isn’t built ina day! The arrival of a cold front on 7 and 8 October meant that pickingdid not have to be done in a rush. TA 7.4 g/l, RS 76 g/l.Pale straw with a yellowish tinge. Delicate exotic fruit aromas minglewith greener notes of peel and kernel. The palate partners fresh greenfruit with a lively acidity and the merest notion of marzipan. Comparedwith its siblings, the 2008 shows more restraint in the sweetie jar andkeeps a tighter grip on a relatively dry, but intriguingly mineral finish.The merest hint of Edelfirne (slightly vegetal mature note) warned methat it may not go the same distance as some of the others, butcontroversial and complex are two attributes I favour. The majority ofthe audience was not quite as enthusiastic. (MS) 8.5%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 2007Rheinhessen 18 Drink 2009-2022A warm and dry summer produced healthy grapes, ready to beharvested by September. Any fruit picked a little later benefited from asmall amount of fine botrytis. TA 7.6 g/l, RS 87.6 g/l.Pale straw with just a tinge of yellow. The nose does not quite exhibitthe exotic aromas of the 2009, but is equally attractive in its expressionof stone fruit and flinty minerality. The palate excels with a perfectbalance of mouth-watering orange and grapefruit flavours and ananimating acidity, leaving just enough room for a refined minerality tocome through on the final furlong. Superb now and for a few moreyears to come, but definitely one for the shorter term. (MS) 8.5%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 2006Rheinhessen 16 Drink 2008-2016Almost the fly-in-the ointment vintage in the naughties decade. Theharvest suffered a two-week interruption due to rain, and rot almost ranriot. Growers had no choice but to reserve the earlier harvest of totallyhealthy grapes for their dry wines and were left with overripe fruit fortheir sweeter renditions. Almost half of the crop had to be discardedbut a fair showing of noble rot providing some late consolation. TA 8.5g/l, RS 102 g/l.A definite golden hue betrays the contribution of botrytis. Honeyednotes and a touch of cobblers’ glue confirm the major influence ofnoble rot. On the palate the 2006 is almost a little oily and exhibitstones of overripe grapefruit, with just a modicum of bitterness. Anyfears of cloying are banished by the firm grip of substantial acidity. Formy final impression, torn between idiosyncratic and schizophrenic, Isettle for decadent. (MS) 9%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 2005Rheinhessen 16.5 Drink 2007-2017A year for botrytis, must weights in the medium range. TA 6.7 g/l, RS85 g/l.Pale straw. Very mature aroma of Firne, scent of raisins. Taste ofbruised pears confirms a slight overripeness of fruit. Shows mediumbody and has enough acidity to balance the mature expression ofbotrytis. The exuberant thrust of youth has given way to the well-rounded manner of maturity. Drinking well now and will last for anotherfew years, but no real long-term prospect. (MS) 8%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 2004Rheinhessen 16 Drink 2006-2014A modest summer with some cool periods and plenty of precipitationpresented growers with a few problems, mainly that of peronospora(downy mildew). Selectiveness and patience were required to salvagea reduced crop of healthy fruit. Physiological ripeness arrived late andacidity levels dropped quite dramatically just before picking. TA 6.9 g/l,RS 90 g/l.

Deep straw with a yellow-golden hue on rim. A fragrance of herbal andfloral aromas clearly distinguishes the 2004 from the other wines in thistasting. Fruit and minerality are quite restrained, and though the acidityis relatively moderate, it is still very noticeable. Very intriguing for itsidiosyncratic style, but will probably not gain from further ageing. (MS)8%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 2003Rheinhessen 17.5 Drink 2005-2018The extremely hot and dry summer of 2003 led to some earlypredictions of vintage of the century, but the Spätlese category inparticular benefits more from moderation than excess. Conditions werefar from ideal for producing wines with grace, elegance and finesse. TA6.5 g/l, RS 107 g/l.Surprisingly youthful appearance – pale straw with a greenish tinge –can, at least partially, be explained by the absence of botrytis. Greenand yellow fruit flavours give this wine an unexpectedly fresh characterdespite its relatively moderate acidity. An intriguing hint of pine addsinterest and an almost cool touch. Not the sugar monster one mighthave anticipated, but rather a charming sweetie. A tad of mineralityrounds off an amazing performance. (MS) 8.5%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 2002Rheinhessen 18 Drink 2004-2017A relatively normal growing season with some cool interludes found itssuccessful conclusion in a warm and dry September. Following thehighly acclaimed 2001 vintage, 2002 was initially underrated, buteventually became a hot favourite with growers themselves. TA 8.6 g/l,RS 92 g/l.Buttery yellow indicates maturity. On the nose a fragrance of ripeyellow fruit is complemented by the scent of lanolin. On the palate thefruit is ripe with just a hint of the exotic, perfectly balanced by a juicyand mouthwatering acidity. Fresh, elegant, racy and exciting, the 2002Kirchspiel is the kind of Spätlese that makes German Riesling unique.(MS) 7.5%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 2001Rheinhessen 16.5 Drink 2003-2014Everything went swimmingly in the growing season of 2001 untilSeptember, when the weather took a turn for the worse. With hopes ofa better-than-average vintage almost dashed, a truly great October putRiesling grapes back on track for a harvest with great expectations. TA8.7 g/l, RS 85 g/l.Medium straw colour, does not look its age. On the nose the fruitappears a tad over-ripe, first signs of Edelfirne with a slightly vegetalnote. When Firne is still edel (noble), it contributes to the complexity ofa wine, and the soft apple and generous mandarin fruit of the 2001benefit from this element of decadence. At the same time the acidity isbeginning to hit a sour note that warns me not to put off the drinking ofany remaining bottles for much longer. (MS) 8.5%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 1997Rheinhessen 15 Drink up1997 was a good summer’s work spoilt by a rainy autumn. Plenty ofprecipitation swelled the grapes, but more water meant thinner wines.TA 8.6 g/l, RS 53.9 g/l.Pale and watery with silvery hue on rim. Very shy on the nose withdelicate appley and lemony notes. The palate struggles to deliver someshrivelling grapefruit flavour, but is finally overwhelmed by a sharplemony acidity. The contribution of the plentiful rain cannot be ignoredeither, diluting fruit and residual sugar. The 1997 may still be drinkablein its own right, but in quality it cannot stand up to its siblings from thefollowing decade. (MS) 8%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 1992Rheinhessen 15.5 Drink upAn overall warm growing season resulted in a relatively high yield ofhealthy grapes. TA 8 g/l, RS 41.6 g/l.Brilliant shine, though yellow golden shade indicates maturity. On thenose notes of rhubarb and sorrel prepare for the grand entry of acidity,and we are not disappointed! Against the odds there is still a remnantof green fruit, but it does not get much help from the very moderateresidual sugar content. Fortunately the decision to go for a bit morebody has managed to prevent the total triumph of a rather searingacidity. (MS) 10%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 1990Rheinhessen 18 Drink 1992-2015A cool year did not raise hopes too high, but a serious reduction ofquantity to around 60% of an average yield promoted a greaterconcentration of flavour. The level of acidity can only be described asserious, but in combination with high extract and the fuller body it canachieve miracles. TA 9.5 g/l, RS 51 g/l.Brilliant appearance, shiny golden hue. Quite incredible nose combinesa touch of almost exotic fruit with attractive forest notes: mushrooms,undergrowth, autumnal leaves. Driven by a dynamic acidity the 1990belies its age and marries youth and maturity in a spiritual ceremony.Panta rhei, all elements perform in perfect harmony. (MS) 9.5%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese 1989Rheinhessen 16 Drink upGenerally rated a top vintage in Germany. Early bud-break, 14 daysahead of average. TA 8.5 g/l, RS 41 g/l.Colour of old gold indicates venerable age. An intriguing combinationof aromas includes herbaceous, nutty and medicinal notes. A markedacidity finds expression in a sorrel-like flavour. Fruit may have handedover the reins to a more herbal and vegetal interpretation of Riesling,but there is still something impressively graceful in this fading beauty.(MS) 10%

K F Groebe, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Auslese 1983Rheinhessen 13.5 Drink ??By the whisker of 1g/l sugar above the minimum requirement, the 1983qualified as an Auslese. TA 9 g/l, RS 45 g/l.Light nut-brown colour indicates a fair degree of oxidation. Aromas ofrotten leaves and damp earth confirm that decay has taken its toll.There is still a hint of caramel on the palate, but the only thing thatlingers on the aftertaste is acidity. (MS) 9.5%

Tags: Rheinhessen, Germany

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