korea magazine [feb. 2010 vol. 6 no. 2]

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    FEBRUARY 2010 www.korea.net

    ISSN:

    2005-

    216

    2

    COMPUTERGRAPHIC:

    A NEW STAR IN

    KOREANMOVIES

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    G a t e w a y t o K o r e a

    Koreas official multi-language website has:

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    The Beauty of Korea Located in south-eastern Seoul, Namhansanseong is a mountain

    fortress with about 200 historic sites and buildings.

    The fortress was included on UNESCOs Tentative

    Lists in January 2010.

    ChoiJi-young

    PRELUDE

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    CONTENTSFEBRUARY 2010 VOL. 6 NO. 2COVER STORY 04CG is being incorporated more and more fre-

    quently into Korean movies. Haeundaeand

    Take Off, movies in which CG played a

    prominent role, were both big hits last year.

    PEN & BRUSH 16Novelist Sung Suk-jes works are entertain-

    ing, but also touching. His knack for com-

    bining both humor and interesting subject

    matter can also be seen in his essays.

    PEOPLE 20The classical music cafe Art for Life, man-

    aged by oboist Seong Pil-gwan and his wife

    flutist Yong Mi-joong, is an extraordinary

    place in Buam-dong, Seoul. Two concerts

    are held at the cafe each week, showcasing

    the pairs philosophy about art and sharing.

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    PUBLISHER Kim He-beom,Korean Culture and Information Service

    EDITING HEM KOREA Co., Ltd

    E-MAIL [email protected]

    PRINTING Samsung Moonwha Printing Co.

    Allrights reserved. No part of this publication maybe reproduced in anyform without permission fromKOREA andthe KoreanCulture andInformation

    Service.

    The articles published in KOREA do not necessarilyrepresentthe views of the publisher. Thepublisher isnotliable forerrors or omissions.

    Letters to theeditor shouldinclude thewritersfullname andaddress. Letters maybe editedfor clarityand/or space restrictions.

    Ifyou wantto receive a freecopyof KOREA or wishto cancel a subscription, please e-mail us.A downloadablePDF file ofKOREA and a map andglossary with common Korean wordsappearing inourtext areavailable by clicking on thethumbnail ofKOREA on the homepage of www.korea.net.

    TRAVEL 26Inje, which lies on the eastern side of the

    Korean peninsula, takes its winter celebra-

    tions to heart. Here, you will find that winter

    festivals, outstanding local food and

    snow-white landscapes are ubiquitous.

    MY KOREA 32Certain cultural quirks can seem odd to for-

    eigners but therein also lies the charm.

    An Englishman living in Seoul confesses

    that singing in a noraebang, Korean karaoke,

    is indeed strange, but an interesting experi-

    ence nonetheless.

    SUMMIT DIPLOMACY 36Korea is to build and operate nuclear power

    plants in the United Arab Emirates, worth

    US$40 billion. It is said that the global

    nuclear reactor market will double over the

    next two decades.

    GLOBAL KOREA 40The Comprehensive Economic Partnership

    Agreement (CEPA) between Korea and India

    took effect January 1. As a country with

    tremendous growth potential, India has been

    predicted to bring great economic opportuni-

    ties to Korea.

    NOW IN KOREA 44Even the harsh cold weather cant stop

    Koreans passion for winter sports. From

    snowboarding to ice climbing, there are a

    myriad of winter activities to enjoy in Korea.

    www.korea.net

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    COMPUTER

    GRAPHIC:A NEW

    STARIN KOREAN

    MOVIES

    COVER STORY

    TopicPhoto

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    When a massive tsunami approached the shores of BusansHaeundae Beach, the excited chatter of vacationers was instantlytransformed into hellish screams. In the summer of 2009, Koreanspacked movie theaters to watch Haeundae, the nations first naturaldisaster blockbuster. The film, which sold more than 10 milliontickets, owes its success to computer graphics technology.by Min Yong-jun

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    CG on the Korean ScreensA film chronicling the rise of a hopeless group of ski jumpers quickly garnered fame in

    Korean theaters. Take Off(2009) follows the tale of five young men who train in ski

    resorts without any proper ski jumping facilities, in the hopes of someday winning an

    Olympic gold medal. The hit film sold more than 8 million tickets and combined with

    Haeundae, the two blockbusters sold nearly 20 million tickets domestically more

    than 10 percent of the entire nations 156 million movie ticket sales in 2009. Both

    films took advantage of Koreas own virtual effects (VFX) technology, particularly in the

    area of computer graphics (CG).

    But even before recent box office hits like Haeundaeand Take Off, CG played a

    prominent role in Korean cinema. Blockbusters such as Tae Guk Gi: Brotherhood of War

    (2004), director Kang Je-gyus Korean War epic that breathtakingly recreated the mis-

    ery of the battlefield on the silver screen, and fantasy film The Restless(2006) also

    made extensive use of CG. In 2007, Dragon Wars: D-Wartook the technologys potential

    to a new level, setting the bar higher within the Korean film industry. Director Bong MofacStudio

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    Joon-hos The Host(2006) was also recognized for its use of the technology. In

    essence, CG has grown to become a secret weapon that can make almost any image

    into reality.

    However, the use of CG is not some effortless, quick and simple wave of a magic

    wand. CG is only a part of VFX, which functions as a means to artificially portray extraor-

    dinary scenes normal cameras are unable to capture. The increasing incorporation of CG

    in Korean films means VFX supervisors are playing a more important role than ever. As

    Jeong Seong-jin of EON Digital Films (the VFX supervisor for Take Off) puts it, For the

    last 30 minutes of Take Off, the whole crew had to make a huge collective effort.

    Creating an explosive finale, while at the same time giving viewers a sense of realism,

    was important to us. It was also vital that CG supported the dramatic emotions of the

    main characters, who were facing the risks of ski jumping in spite of bad weather, while

    delivering a sense of real speed.

    Jeong underscores that CG is not simply a device used to buttress movies on a techni-

    cal basis; its a catalyst that enables more effective drama, but is an addition that

    should not interfere with the overall flow of the film.

    Jang Seong-ho, president of Mofac Studio (the VFX supervisor for Haeundae), alsosaid, We could have achieved a better quality of CG than we did if the production com-

    pany had told us to look for ways to create CG with our own technology from the begin-

    ning of the project. [Furthermore,] we could have done it for half as much as was spent

    in the US (when we outsourced the material). In any event, its a relief that we were able

    to bring the level of CG up to a point that viewers found acceptable, though I would not

    be honest if I said the project was completed with total satisfaction. In fact, the quality

    of the computer-generated data in Haeundaes water scenes bought from the American

    company was originally so bad, in part due to a lack of budget, that Jang completely

    reworked the data he was given. Mofac Studio ended up changing the texture and light-

    ing of the CG cuts, rendering them over and over, and adding extra details. They spent

    roughly two months focusing on the final composition of more than 640 CG cuts.

    A still from the movie

    Haeundae(opposite), CG

    works from the TV drama

    Legend(left, right above)

    and also from the TV

    drama Tamra, the Island

    (right below).

    before

    before

    after

    after

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    The experience of learning to use CG provides another opportunity. Director Yoon

    Je-kyoon and JK Film are now in the early stages of putting together an underwater

    monster movie called Sector 7. Mofac Studio is working on preproduction together

    with JK Film for the project.

    The creature in The Hostwas brought to life by an American VFX company called

    The Orphanage. Back then, a movie featuring a huge monster was an unprecedented

    challenge in the Korean film industry. For a blockbuster that cost around US$9.1

    million to make, the producers had to be careful when making choices to ensure they

    didnt lose money, which is why The Orphanage was chosen over every other Korean

    company. While The Orphanage was known for the CG work it did on a texture called

    hard surface, through its work for The Host, the company acquired the necessary

    technology to create a new kind of monster, which in turn helped raise its own standard

    of quality.

    Not to be outdone, the making of Haeundaewas also an amazing achievement. JK

    Film stipulated in its conditions that all technology would transfer to Mofac Studio

    when it signed a contract with the foreign VFX company. The resulting data from

    Haeundaethus became the property of Mofac Studio, which ultimately helped improve

    Koreas own VFX technology.

    In a similar move, Weta Digital, a New Zealand visual effects company, grew leaps

    and bounds with Peter Jacksons The Lord of the Ringstrilogy. More recently, it helped

    Learning from Experience

    Still and CG works from the movie The

    Forbidden Kingdom(top, below), CG works fromthe movie The Restless(bottom).

    before

    before

    after

    after

    DTIPictures

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    work on the science fiction epic Avatar(2009). Keep in mind that although New

    Zealands movie industry is, relative to Hollywood, underdeveloped, Peter Jackson

    helped his own New Zealand-based VFX company become one of the worlds most

    respected in its field by bringing it in to help in the making of his hugely successful

    movie project.

    Its not practical to always depend on just one company do all the work. At the same

    time, overcoming huge challenges is a prerequisite for positive growth. Previously,

    Insight Visual took part in the production of Kang Je-gyus Tae Guk Gi: Brotherhood of

    War, and is now working on D-Day(working title), Kangs first overseas project that is

    still in the planning stages.

    At the time when Tae Guk Giwas being made, Kang didnt trust our CG team very

    much, says Son Seung-hyeon, Insight Visuals production director. But afterwards I

    think he learned to trust the role CG plays in movies. I think hes decided to use CG a

    lot more from now on.

    The most important part of D-Dayis location, as the movie is based around the

    Normandy invasion. The production department is planning on shooting in China,

    Germany, Hungary and Korea, but continues to discuss the necessity of each location.Additionally, theyre examining different ways to get the effects they need without

    spending too much of the budget to film in all those locations.

    Although the movie has substantial funding of around US$27 million, shooting will

    be hard to execute because of its sheer scale, which is why CG is bound to play an

    important role. It is likely that matte painting, a cost-cutting technique used to copy

    and paste peoples movements for a particular shoot in the form of digital data, will be

    used in D-Daybecause of the way it positively impacted Tae Guk Gi.

    Still and CG works from TV drama, Iris(top and

    above, below).

    before

    before

    after

    after

    NextVisual

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    The Future of Korean VFXPerhaps the greatest benefit of CG technology is that it allows for more diverse story-

    telling. From Haeundaeand Take Off, to a recent movie called Woochi(2009), Korean

    cinema is attempting to deal with genres and subjects that would have been impossible

    in the past. The same applies to TV dramas. The Legend(2008) and Iris(2009) were

    both large-scale projects that captured the attention of viewers with their unique use of

    CG. As a result of technological developments, Koreas movie and video game industries

    gained new freedoms in sharing their stories.

    At the same time, its important to think seriously about how efficiently CG will be

    used in the future. Yang Seok-il, a manager at DTI Pictures, cautions, Some producers

    just hate CG but others heavily depend on it. For example, when shooting a car chase

    scene where a car is flipped over, producers need to think about whether their action

    team or CG team can reconstruct it better, and then also consider which one is more

    within their budget. Im not saying you have to use CG and spend more money, but it is

    important to decide which part of a movie definitely needs proper CG.

    The box office success of Haeundaeand Take Offis definitely encouraging. Indeed,

    the success of big budget movies that make liberal use of CG has led to the planning of InsightVisual

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    other such movies, with companies able to study and apply the new technology to them.

    Korean VFX companies usually work on several projects simultaneously three to four

    at any given time. Although there is an educational benefit for the film crew they can

    gain an intimate understanding of the overall flow of each movie or TV drama they work

    on it is born from a grueling work process.

    Today, Korean VFX companies are turning their sights to overseas markets. In an

    effort to promote Koreas VFX industry, the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism and

    the Korea Creative Content Agency jointly sponsored Koreas seven leading VFX compa-

    nies by participating in the American Film Market (AFM) the largest motion picture

    trade show in the world in 2009.

    Before the event, few Korean companies received requests to help make foreign

    movies. One notable exception was when DTI Pictures, Macrograph and Footage all took

    part in the postproduction of The Forbidden Kingdom(2008). Yang Seok-il of DTI

    Pictures explained it this way: The price difference wasnt very big. Breaking into

    Hollywood doesnt guarantee success. What you need to do is respond to business

    strategically. Mofac Studio also took part in the production of the soon-to-be released

    movie, The Warriors Way(2010). While it wont be easy for Korean VFX companies tobecome an inseparable part of extravagant Hollywood films any time soon, they will

    need to search for more long-term targets when considering overseas markets.

    The expansive achievements of Koreas CG technology will be rendered useless if not

    given the chance to be properly used, but opportunities arent created solely through the

    efforts of a single individual. So far, there have been the select few who have worked

    hard to develop the industry, but now it is time to understand where the country stands,

    from an industrial and international perspective. The CG industrys ambition to re-create

    the future of Korean cinema with its technology can only begin to be realized after this

    understanding comes about. Looking only at the progress so far, the results are encour-

    aging. Based on the diverse range of experiences Korean VFX companies have had so

    far, they will one day be able to create such comparable CG works as that of Avatar.

    CG work from the movie

    Hong Gil-dong(oppo-

    site), a still from the

    movie Tae Guk Gi(left),

    CG works from the movie

    Modern Boy(right

    above) and from the

    movie Private Eye(rightbelow).

    before

    before

    after

    after

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    Anyone who has been paying close attention to the end credits

    of Hollywood blockbusters for the past several years will have

    noticed the occasional Korean name scroll by. Today, there are

    actually quite a few Korean VFX artists working on some of

    Hollywoods top productions and at some of Americas leading stu-

    dios. These talented men and women represent the future of the

    Korean VFX industry.

    Koreans had a hand in Avatar(2009), James Camerons epic 3D

    motion picture that has fundamentally altered the movie industry.

    The listincludes lighting technical director JungByung-gun(above),

    digital modelers Chang Jung-min and Lo Eung-ho, senior facial

    modeler Lee Jin-woo, modeler Lee Sun-jin, visual effects artist Im

    Chang-eui, FX ATD Sean Lee, motion editor Kim Ki-hyun and sen-

    ior animator Park Jee-young. A total of nine Korean artists were

    involved in the historic cinematic project, two of whom sat down to

    talk with KOREA about their lives and the VFX industry.

    INTERVIEW

    KOREAN ARTISTSTO LEAD CG BLOCKBUSTERS

    JungByung-gun

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    Q How did you end up working overseas?

    AJung Byung-gun After graduating from Hongik University with a

    degree in Department of Art Studies, I enrolled at the Academy of

    Art University (AAU) in San Francisco in 1996. I then worked on

    three feature films and one short animation at the Walt DisneyStudios before landing a job at Weta Digital. In the past, Ive also

    worked for Paramount Studios and Sony Computer Entertainment,

    the maker of the Sony PlayStation. Early on in my career I spent

    three or four years in the field of game cinematics, working for

    companies like SNK, Activision and Sony.

    Park Jee-young In character animation at the California Institute of

    the Arts (CalArts), I started work at an indie movie production

    company as a 2D key animator. At the time, many 2D animators

    were transitioning into 3D, and I was no exception. Three years

    ago, I saw an announcement saying James Camerons Avatarwas

    going into preproduction, and, of course, thats when I applied to

    join Wetas animation team.

    Q What exactly did you do on Avatar?

    AJung In November 2008, for the first eight months of produc-

    tion, I worked as a texture artist, developing colors and textures for

    CG character backgrounds and objects, and then for the last four

    months I worked as a lighting technical director, designing the

    lighting for scenes to create the final images. This transition

    between departments enabled me to experience a wider range of

    the movies production process.

    Park I worked on Avataras a senior animator. All of these crea-

    tures, none of which exist in the real world, were created fromscratch through nothing but animation.

    Q What did you think was special when you first saw how

    Hollywood productions were made and became a part of it?

    A Park The first things that come to mind are the massive amounts

    of capital investment, the systematic production pipeline in place,

    and the abundance of trained professionals. A particular focus is

    placed on preproduction and planning, during which an efficient

    production plan is drawn up, while developing the necessary soft-

    ware and technologies and creating a coherent storyline at the

    same time. Such thorough preparation, combined with an efficient

    work environment, saves a lot of time. During the preproduction of

    Avatar, which lasted several years, James Cameron and 20th

    Century Fox developed a new camera technology called the Pace

    Fusion 3D camera system. Another strength of the Hollywood VFX

    industry is that there are so many artists who know how to use all

    these new technologies really well.

    Q How do you think Koreas VFX technology is coming along?

    A Park Thanks to Koreas soaring interest in VFX and how its revi-

    talizing the entertainment industry, investment in VFX movies is

    growing every year and movies out there are becoming more and

    more expressive. The use of VFX is only going to increase in Koreain the future. Its also noteworthy that there are a growing number

    of professionals who are well-versed in this field.

    Q What do you think about Koreas intention to take its VFX

    overseas?

    AJung Its great that Korean VFX companies are collaborating on

    overseas projects and making inroads in other markets, and they

    should definitely keep up with this. Its difficult to expect the

    Korean VFX industry to grow if companies just target the limited

    domestic market with its small number of moviegoers. Producers

    in Hollywood are turning their attention outside the country to cut

    costs. So as long as you have solid qualifications and a good com-

    mand of English, theres a good chance you can sign some kind of

    a deal with an overseas company for VFX or animation production.

    We have to figure out what our strengths and weaknesses are, and

    deal with the particular problems we face. Korea has a domestic

    movie and game market base, and a professional workforce. On the

    other hand, there is a lack of experts with high-end production

    experience and a language barrier in place. You also have to keep

    in mind that most of the countries doing VFX and animation work

    for the US right now are English-speaking ones like Canada, India,

    New Zealand, Singapore, India and the UK.20th

    CenturyFoxKorea

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    HELPING THE CG INDUSTRYGAIN GROUND WORLDWIDE

    In November 2009, seven Korean VFX companies shared a booth

    at the American Film Market (AFM), the largest motion picture

    trade show in the world. The companies were involved in a project

    aimed at actively promoting the technology of Korean VFX compa-

    nies through business meetings with international film profession-

    als, an endeavor spearheaded by Koreas Ministry of Culture,

    Sports and Tourism (MCST) and the Korea Creative Content

    Agency (KOCCA).

    The two government groups backed the companies promotional

    efforts by arranging business meetings with buyers from

    Hollywood, which Jo Ha-sup, an assistant manager at KOCCAs

    Future Convergence Content Group, expounded on when he said,

    It is very difficult for small Korean companies to open booths at

    international festivals because of their limited budgets. Thats why

    the government provided an opportunity for these small businesses

    to share a booth.

    Park Sang-uk, who works at the MCSTs Convergence Content

    Team, adds, The AFM is part of the bigger promotional packagepicture. The main part of the program is aimed at supporting

    Korean CG companies participating in movie/broadcasting projects

    both in Korea and overseas by paying for part of the production

    costs. The goal is to help these companies enhance their price

    competitiveness and the quality of their product. In this context,

    participation in the AFM can be seen as an additional marketing

    support tool.

    The industry welcomes the move. Hollywood tends to keep

    going back to companies that have proven themselves time and

    again. Initially, we predict we will not achieve exactly what we

    want, but I do think that we will be able to improve our relations

    on a lasting basis once we successfully complete our first project,

    says Son Seung-hyeon, production director at Insight Visual. In

    essence, government support is like fertilizer, supporting the

    industry until companies can stand on their own two feet.

    The Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism made an official

    announcement about the project to promote Korean CG companies

    in foreign markets on January 14, 2010, with Minister Yu In-chon

    explaining, The government plans to inject around US$181 mil-

    lion into its computer graphics industry by 2013. The action plan

    includes creating a special CG fund of around US$45 million,

    offering tax breaks that include refunding the cost of production,

    KMC

    ulture

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    and providing support in the form of equipment to small compa-

    nies to enhance their technological competence.

    On top of that, the government will help individual companies

    which have had difficulty finding investment for their technolo-

    gies, with their R&D efforts. The project aims to improve the tech-

    nological prowess of all Korean VFX providers and secure new 3D

    technologies emerging around the world. The MCST plans to

    spearhead participation in overseas projects involving Korean com-

    panies and to provide further marketing opportunities by bringing

    relevant businesses together in overseas markets, including the

    Cannes International Film Festival and the American Film Market.

    If all goes according to plan, this will create sales of 100 billion

    won and 30,000 new jobs by 2013.

    The governments policy initiative was brought about after

    Korean companies would not leave the issue alone. The outcome

    of their hard work to coordinate these demands was the establish-

    ment of the Korea Computer Graphics Industry Alliance (KCGIA) in2009. The idea of a council was conceived in 2008 and came to

    fruition in August 2009 as an advisory committee to the govern-

    ment. In a nutshell, the success of this policy depends on how well

    government officials are informed of what is really going on in the

    industry. People are paying attention to whether this meaningful

    first step can lead to an even bigger leap.

    Stills from the recently released movie Woochi(above) and last years

    hit movie Take Off(below).

    ZipCinema

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    ngs taste for fun and interesting subject matter can also be seen in hisessays. I easily laugh. During my years in uni

    PEN & BRUSH

    Sung Suk-je

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    For 24 years, Sung Suk-je has brought his readers laughter and

    tears with a writing style that encompasses both his strong per-

    sonality and quick plot pacing. Although he has built a strong

    resume based on his novels, he first appeared on the literary

    scene as a poet.

    In 1986, Sung entered the field with his poem Window

    Washing Person, which won a prize at Munhaksasang. He went

    on to write his first novel, The Last 4.5 Seconds of My Life, in

    1994. Since then, his works have continued to win numerous

    awards, including the Oh Yeong-soo Literary Award in 2005.Sung has procured a steady reader base with his prolific pub-

    lished writings of two collections of poetry, 10 short novels,

    essay collections and four novels.

    Sungs literary works are easily accessible for most readers. He

    does not seek to affirm his own innocence nor does he bask in

    novelty. He also does not tease readers with ostentatiously com-

    plex questions. In his youth, Sung admired colorful patchwork

    quilts, and his literary career is often compared to the eclectic

    works that were once so impressed upon him.

    I like mixing it up. Id rather have people than one person in

    my stories. Ive written about whatever my mind shows, like a

    patchwork quilt, and that is what I believe my literary world to

    be. Literature is communication between author and readers.

    Literature is conveying stories Ive heard and made. Literature is

    an inanimate object that springs to life with human interaction.

    Unless awoken by human touch, a literary work will just be an

    ordinary marker left at a specific location.

    Though Sung is happy with the self-reflection poetry induces,

    he also enjoys the interaction that novels bring. Happiness can

    be a personal, one-sided emotion but, comparably, when some-thing is entertaining it must be shared and is hardpressed to be

    kept secret. The writer also found new ways of interacting with

    the audience with his essays, which, like his novels and poems,

    portray his personal side.

    Writing sentences means the domain of fiction has started,

    and essays are also kind of a fabrication of fiction. But essays are

    usually written with some sort of fact or phenomenon. You can-

    not write an essay without them. With these in hand, I have to

    magnify and characterize a specific portion to get my point

    across clearly. Essays have a different fun to them.

    Sung Suk-jes novels are entertaining,even touching. His stories are like acheerful folk dance. Spectators unknow-ingly follow the beat and start dancing.

    However, as one excitedly follows his sto-ries, one suddenly flinches into an abruptsilence. Excitement is suddenly trans-formed into tears, enlightening the reader

    with a sudden intuition that the source oflaughter and grief is one and the same.Drawing pathos from everyday life, this is

    why we believe in his writing.by Lee Se-mi | photographs by Kim Hong-jin

    DEEP INTO THE

    WORLD OFEVERYDAYLIFE

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    into obscurity again, the point is the journey itself.

    And Sung is, indeed, a fun person. If it is not fun for me, it

    cannot make others laugh. I cannot tolerate boredom.

    Literature fundamentally has no meaning if its not read, and a

    powerful force that makes people read is when the content is

    fun. Whatever the result, there must be something that makes

    me excited and curious. However, even if I think the material is

    fun, and if my readers do not agree, then ultimately there is no

    fun in the material for me either.

    Sungs taste for entertainment saturates his writing. I laugh

    easily. During my years in university, I was once scolded for

    laughing out loud by my professor who said Why do you laugh

    at something so simple? So I walked out of the classroom and

    laughed all I wanted before returning. His love for jocosity is

    one reason he believes novels should be read carefreely, without

    the obligation that something must be learnt from the material.

    Sungs novels are much closer to realism than any ideologicalphilosophies on the origins of our human nature. The weight of

    life and its layers of intricate truths can be very easily simplified

    with a gallant and bold bout of laughter.

    In earlier works, his novels often began with bizarre charac-

    ters whose idiosyncracies are expressed playfully, at odds with

    their environment. By the mid-2000s, his novels, among them

    Mothers SongandA Really Good Day, began to develop a heav-

    ier feel to them, progressing into new territories of, perhaps,

    maturity. More recently, in his new novel Currently Happy,

    Sung has returned to his previously playful characters that are

    completely introverted into their own lives, but have reconciled

    themselves with their surroundings. The characters reflect the

    perspectives of the author as his view of the world becomes

    more tolerant. However, one aspect of his novels has never

    changed, which Sung calls showing the extreme.

    My interest in the extreme has not changed. Today I focus

    less on a beings extreme characteristics, and try to focus on

    expanding that extremity. It is less evident as it is covered up.

    People can change any way they like, whether tragically or

    comically or coincidentally. I always keep that in mind.

    His characters are pushed to their limits through gambling,

    drinking, dancing, or acts implicitly demonstrating that the act

    of losing oneself is a form of liberation. His extremes are notmetaphysical, but a form of experiential immersion.

    In writing, Sung is interested in hedonistic paradigms of the

    world, such as crime and money. But in person, he enjoys activi-

    ties such as hiking, listening to music or riding his bicycle when

    faced with writers block.

    He is currently writing about strangers who connect to form

    a family. Until then, his readers will have to lie in wait for the

    next laugh, intermingled with sobs. As one of his poems cau-

    tions, dont expect this world to be this warm. Sung Suk-je,

    the storyteller, is a true player.

    SUNG SUK-JES SHORT STORIESThe Last 4.5 Seconds of My Life (Die letzten viereinhalb

    Sekunden meines Lebens)

    > Language German

    > Publisher Peperkorn (Germany)

    > Published year 2009

    Sung Suk-jes collection of short stories, The Last

    4.5 Seconds of My Life (Die letzten viereinhalb

    Sekunden meines Lebens), includes nine of his

    major works, including the title work The Last 4.5

    Seconds of My Life, First Love, Early Spring, Jo

    Dong-gwan Yakjeon, Wandering, Novel Writing

    Person, Under the Shadows of the Oleander,

    Hwang Man-geun Said, and Cheonaeyullak.

    The characters in The Last 4.5 Seconds of My Life

    are people on the boundaries of society. Sung

    expresses the characters cleverness and simplicity

    through a lovable combination, using comfortableand witty writing that only he can. Examining a few

    works in his collection of short stories, the title work

    The Last 4.5 Seconds of My Lifeis a piece that uses

    satirical allegory to express the transformation of a

    man moving from a period dominated by physical

    strength, to a period of ideologies. The writer depict-

    ed the last 4.5 seconds of a gangsters life, like a

    slow video motion film, as he falls off a bridge to his

    death in his car. Without any frivolous excess or

    humor, Sungs mixture of mythology makes the

    novel multi-emotional in dimension.

    Hwang Man-geun Saidis a short story of a farmer

    who is below average in all aspects of life. Hwang

    Man-geun works diligently and helps his neighbors,

    while never avoiding humiliation from others until

    his sudden accidental death. He comes back to life

    in this short story as an outsider who sees his true

    worth. What would have Hwang Man-geun said?

    He never did leave any special message, but his

    duty-fulfilled life urges the reader to reflect on their

    own, which are littered with desires and

    selfishness.

    Jo Dong-gwan Yakjeonis a

    piece that shows the true

    essence of Sungs writing.

    The writer exquisitely express-

    es the short life of a gangster

    named Jo Dong-gwan and his

    roughneck life, and how he

    gained fame as a gangster.

    Jo leaves to catch his runaway

    wife but fails to to get her. On

    his way back home, he breaks

    all the windows of a police

    station. He is arrested, con-

    victed, and ultimately sent to

    a juvenile facility. With the

    death of Jo, the indescribable

    effects of his death on the

    villagers are used to expose

    the hypocrisy and authority of

    older generations.

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    PEOPLE

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    THE ART OF

    SHARINGA cafe can serve as an atmospheric environment to sip awell-brewed coffee, a gathering place for artists and writers, a casu-al restaurant to catch a light meal, or a simple getaway to enjoy

    stimulating conversation. Combine the romantic ambiance of Cafede la Rotonde in Paris, where Jean Cocteau and AmedeoModigliani discussed the arts, with the Korean peoples affinity forcommunity, and you get Art for Life, a prime example of Seoulsunique blend of cafe culture. Situated at the foot of Buam-dongstranquil mountains, this charismatic space of traditional architec-ture radiates with a progressive philanthropy.by Jeong Se-young | photographs by Kim Nam-heon

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    Novelist Oh Jung-hee once wrote: In the evening as I wash rice,

    I look up through the window greeted by the sunset hiding behind

    the horizon of mountains and woods as a white bird flies by leaving

    a trace of mystery, and my heart is filled with a vague sadness

    towards my life. The scenery of this passage matches that of

    Buam-dong, which boasts the idyllic figures of Mounts Bukhansan

    and Inwangsan in its landscape. The best vantage point can be

    found just past the Whanki Museum a landmark in Buam-dong

    and up the slope; spectators are rewarded with a picturesque

    scene unlike the world that was left behind the bend. Taking a

    deep breath as you look around, its easy to forget this quaint cafe

    village is actually in the center of Seoul. Mountain ridges glow in

    the sunset, smoke rises from traditional houses as families prepare

    dinner, a stray cat follows the scent of rice, and a thick snow blan-

    kets the rooftops.

    Buam-dong is located in Jongno-gu, Seoul, at the eastern foot of

    Mount Inwangsan, and bordered by Samcheong-dong to the eastand Pyeongchang-dong to the north. The neighborhood was named

    after Buchim, a mythical boulder borne of traditional folklore. It

    was believed that if you rub a rock on the boulder the number of

    times equal to ones age, it will stick to the stone and that person

    will be given a son. Recently, Buam-dong started to gain fame as

    it became the prominent stage for hit Korean dramas. Young

    artists ranging from designers, photographers, musicians, film pro-

    fessionals and chefs began to show a great deal of interest in

    Buam-dong. Its winding alleyways elude to a simpler lifestyle sur-

    rounded by nature, far away from the city bustle.

    Buam-dong has become the popular it place to open an

    artists studio, joining the prestigious ranks of Hongdae and

    Garosu-gil, Samcheong-dong and Seorae Maeul, Gahoe-dong and

    Hyoja-dong. Though the area has countless charming cafes, the

    oldest and most sought-after is the classical music cafe Art for

    Life, managed by former Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra oboist

    Seong Pil-gwan and his wife, flutist Yong Mi-joong. The couple

    acquired the mountaintop home seven years ago.

    By the age of 38, Seong had studied culture, philosophy, poli-

    tics and economics in both the Netherlands and France. During

    his studies in Paris, where he first experienced authentic cafe cul-

    ture, he dreamt of achieving the same level of connectivity in

    Korea that he found abroad: the phenomenon of people freelyexperiencing salon concerts in a setting of synergy. The first thing

    he did upon returning to Korea was sell his 23-year-old apartment

    building to construct a house in the mountains within Seouls city

    limits. Seong hired four contractors to create his dream structure,

    a house of arts and sharing. The final design included a main

    building, large enough to house three generations, a small theater

    for weekly concerts, an outdoor terrace for exhibitions, and a cafe

    where one can order warm food and tea. Though many an obstacle

    was faced in completing the building, Seong and his wifes kept

    their spirits up, and 18 months later their dreams were realized.

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    As soon as Art for Life opened, musicians, photographers,

    poets, entrepreneurs, professors, doctors and passersby in love

    with classical music flocked to their establishment. Many cus-

    tomers were introduced to the establishment based on word of

    mouth recommendations. But guests of Art for Life always

    return and now, seven years later, they have become the cafes

    family. Regulars gather each week on a volunteer basis to perform

    and recite poems, partake in delectable cuisine and drink. Then,

    at the end of the day, profits are sent to help those in need.

    A FESTIVE LIFE At the entrance of the cafe are the words AFestive Life. The phrase, which would seem to echo the prema-

    ture epitaph of a musicians life well-lived, is meant to inspire visi-

    tors to define what happiness means to them. Though it may seem

    at odds with those the couple wishes to help (those suffering from

    misfortune), the catchphrase became the couples life slogan after

    they found religion. Seong graduated from Hanyang Universitys

    College of Music, majoring in the oboe, and became a member of

    the Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra at the age of 21. He lectured at

    Hanyang University, Sookmyung Womens University and

    Chung-Ang University and was on the short path to success.

    Seong Pil-gwan, 55, is an oboist and the owner of the cafe Art for Life (opposite). Thecafes entrance is seen covered in snow (top) and a monochromatic sign indicates the

    restaurant concert hall (above).

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    That is until when, in 1992, he left everything behind to study

    abroad in Europe. Seong confesses that he was full of conceit,

    having achieved so much at an early age. Music was all I knew;

    it was my life ... But one day, I met God. Everything changed after

    that. During his studies in Paris, the young musician learned of

    an organization named Emmas, led by a priest named Abbe

    Pierre. Through the charitable work of the group, Seong came to

    realize that art was not only fun, but that it could be used to create

    happiness in others as well. He learned that to spread joy, one

    must share and live among those in society who are in need. He

    came to regret the years spent enjoying his talents selfishly, and

    instead wanted to give to others. Seongs own festive life started

    when he decided to share and use his talents for his neighbors.

    The cafe now holds two concerts every Tuesday and Saturday;

    a busy schedule that has the calendar booked through 2012.

    January through March of this year will showcase jazz, March to

    June will present classical music, July will return to jazz, andAugust will present 15th and 16th century music. Though this year

    is filled with Western music, the upcoming year will have tradition-

    al Korean performances featuring instruments such as the

    gayageum byeongchang, geomungoand haegeumaccompanied by

    dances. Film festivals and a myriad of events are also scheduled.

    Performance profits are donated to the impoverished and others

    in need. The philanthropic couple has helped foreign women living

    in Korea who have no way to maintain their livelihood obtain

    Korean citizenship, and has sponsored five orphaned minors

    every year for the last three years, by giving them 1 million won

    each month.

    Art for Life does not stop at helping others materially. The

    pair also help children learn and gain a better understanding of the

    arts. Seong buys the paintings the children make at 5,000 won

    (around US$4.50) per piece and hangs them in the cafe. He

    hopes to teach children that art is not free, but that it is a relation-

    ship of exchange and growth. Children draw very well. After lis-

    tening to music, we ask the children to draw their impressions and

    we get such unique paintings filled with their infinite imagination.

    These paintings are worth more than any piece of art in the profes-

    sional world. The paintings Seong has collected over the years

    from children are enough to cover all the walls of his cafe.

    Another method to expand a sense of community is to give visi-

    tors a chance to write poems. Providing people with the opportuni-

    ty to recite verse about subjects which they never had a chance to

    express serves as a moving catharsis. Through this process Seong

    has grown close to his patrons, and once received a letter he will

    never forget. One woman, after arguing with her husband, wrote

    him a letter after deciding to take her own life. By the time Seongreceived the letter the woman had already passed away, but in her

    final moments she knew she could reach out to someone, and was

    not alone. Seong once again realized, upon reading the letter, the

    importance of connecting emotionally to others.

    After this incident, Art for Life started couples art therapy

    classes. The class Ieum (connection) helps estranged married

    couples re-establish a close bond. The intimate and raw emotions

    of the meetings have melted even the coldest of hearts, from

    wealthy business people to busy celebrities who are often

    detached from the lives of others.

    ArtforLife

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    COOKING CULTURE One of the main reasons Seong has an easy

    smile and optimistic lifestyle is his other half: Yong Mi-joong. The

    couple first met in an audition for the Seoul Philharmonic

    Orchestra (as an auditioning student and judges panel member),

    and later married. Though Yong is seven years younger than her

    husband, the couple work smoothly as a team, with Yong often-

    times taking charge with organizing and preparations. When Seong

    invites a large group of people without considering the circum-

    stances, it is Yong who gets busy. The disciplined flutist prepares

    all the food, while also performing and conducting other duties.

    Yong says that she is happy to share her music and cooking

    with others. Throughout the interview with KOREA, the musician

    never once left the kitchen until discussions about food began.

    Lately, she says, she has been enamored with enzymes. The mod-

    est Yong says that she is still learning, but her exquisite cuisine

    belies her humble words. Enzymes, created by fermentation, can

    be called an ingredient that grows life. In the chefs words, foodthat embraces everyone is closer to peoples hearts than any par-

    ticular food trends. She began to study food philosophy and

    learned that cuisine that is healthy and natural caters to all

    palettes. Yong says her dishes are inspired by the Eastern philoso-

    phy of the Taoism, and that tastes and culture are reflected in

    ones writing, music and cooking. She has started to read more

    about the unseen forces of connectivity and philosophy, and began

    to learn about meditation.

    Yong first developed a passion for food from a desire to cook for

    patients in hospices. As spicy and salty foods can be hazardous for

    the sick, she began to research and learn more about well-being.

    Quality ingredients and minimal seasoning are best Italian cui-

    sine is a case in point, as it is one of the worlds best-known health

    foods, she says. After Yong completed a professional course in

    Italian cuisine, she moved on to study French cooking. Next, she

    dreams of learning to prepare a variety of Korean cuisine from

    across the country, taking to heart recipes handed down from gen-

    eration to generation. These gastronomic historians, people who

    have perfected their dishes after years of preparation and practice,

    are the true philosophers of food. These recipes contain not only

    ingredients, but the souls of people, and they incite inspiration,

    calm, anger and give strength to the weak this is the level the

    dedicated chef strives for.When Yong cooks for visitors who have recently argued, she uses

    dried ingredients instead of fresh vegetables or fruits. Raw dishes

    have a tendency to be rough. For people who have fought, these

    dishes will only add to their anger and not suppress it. In contrast,

    dried ingredients have a good taste and energy, giving the dish a

    gentle and soft feel. A verse from The Book of Unholy Mischiefby

    Elle Newmark describes the chef that she dreams of becoming.

    Luciano, food has power. Each dish works its own magic, a kind of

    alchemy that changes our body and minds, but is easily consum-

    able with no need to chew. So it helps ease a persons mind.

    Seong plays the oboe in the restaurant concert hall (opposite below). The name of the cafeis painted on a colorful wall (opposite top). Chidrens paintings hung in the cafe (opposite

    above). Yong Mi-joong, 49, plays the flute (above).

    ArtforLife

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    TRAVEL

    Winter Song

    A TRANSPARENT

    Inje lies on the eastern edge of the Korean peninsula, an area where the mountains arehigher and the valleys deeper. Each year, Inje takes its winter celebrations to heart. Oncethe fine crystal structures of snowflakes start to appear, they continue to fall endlessly fromthe sky, in all their ephemeral beauty. Similar to the local specialty, hwangtae(dried pol-lack), which deepens in flavor by melting and refreezing with the cold, visitors to the regionmust allow their hearts to open to new experiences, despite the sub-zero temperatures.by Cheon So-hyeon | photographs by Park Jung-ro

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    In December, when the temperature drops below

    minus 10C, the residents of Hwangtae Village in

    Inje begin to stir in an excited frenzy. On the

    same ground where the villagers raised corn and

    peppers just months before until autumns end,

    deokwooden frames are set up on which millions

    of myeongtae(a wall-eye pollack) are hung. The

    myeongtaes, which have been frozen and thawed

    every night and day for the past three to four

    months, become hwangtae once the lengthycycle is completed. The process is similar to that

    of ice wine, in which grapes are repeatedly frozen

    and thawed. The rings on the skin of the hwang-

    tae reflect the mercury dips of winter.

    When we arrived at Choi Yong-siks hwangtae

    deokjang(drying facility) for a visit, he was hav-

    ing a meal with his employees on their last day of

    hanging the local grub. This winter Choi dried

    2.7 million of the fish. Yongdae-ri village, popu-

    lation of 550, has 30 deokjang, and an annual

    production of 17 million hwangtaes or 70 per-

    cent of the total hwangtae consumption in Korea.

    A PASSIONATE LIFE In Nam-myeon, Inje, where

    the arms of the Soyanggang river slow with the

    cold, a large-scale bingjang, or ice plaza, is cre-

    ated every winter. Many people wait for the cold

    season to visit the area, so that they can fish for

    bingeo, or smelt. The annual Inje Icefish

    Festival, now in its 14th

    run, has become aregional event. The key to enticing friends to

    come out to the site is the thrill of ice fishing, an

    activity which cant be done just anywhere in

    Korea. Once a person masters the gentle motion

    of the catch, strings of bingeo no bigger than

    your index finger can be pulled from the small

    holes in the ice in no time.

    The skin of bingeo is translucent, showing the

    entirety of their inner structures. The small fish

    are typically eaten with gochujang, red pepper

    Hwangtae deokjang(drying pollack facilities)in Inje(above).Injesmountains and valleys are seen from Misiryeong pass(oppposite).

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    becomes defined and clear. On the snow, the

    footprints of a rabbit skipping to look for spring

    water are imprinted like a winter shadow. Only

    after crossing two bridges and climbing three

    hills causing sweat to caress my forehead

    does the Iljumun gate appear. I cross the last

    bridge, the Susingyo, and finally I arrive at the

    Baekdamsa temple.

    One of the founding temples of the Jogye

    Order of Korean Buddhism, only 40 people a

    year undertake the challenge of pursuing the

    temples strict teaching the first step to

    becoming a monk. To catch a glimpse into a

    monks life without the six months of training,

    visitors can easily participate in a temple stay.

    The short program offers lessons on meditation,

    the 108 bows, dado(tea ceremony),balwu-gongyang(eating practices) and yoga. For

    those who cant stay long, relax for a warm cup of

    green tea and add a stone on the pagoda at the

    temples entrance, which symbolizes leaving

    behind ones worries.

    My footsteps climbing down the mountain are

    lighter, the weather warmer. Its a delight to see

    the animals, invisible from a cars vantage point,

    while walking the silent wintry road. Winter in

    Inje this is spiritual training.

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    The water of Soyanggang river lies frozen (above). The bell ofBaekdamsa temple (opposite top). A woman is enjoying ice fishing

    on bingjang, ice plaza in Inje (opposite bottom).

    paste, right after they are caught. If the raw meal

    seems too bold, bingeo can also be prepared

    cooked and seasoned. You dont have to look too

    far for restaurants there is a line of snack bars

    shielded from the chilly winds by tents pitched

    around the festival venue on Soyangho lake.

    Though the 2010 Icefish Festival was held from

    January 28 to 31, die-hard bingeo afficionados

    start visiting the frozen rivers from mid-January

    to early February, when the river starts to freeze.

    Mount Seoraksan was the fifth mountain to be

    designated a national park in Korea. When peo-

    ple hear the name, they might think of its main

    gateway city, Sokcho, but the inland region of

    this mountain is actually located in Inje. Mount

    Seoraksan is divided into Naeseorak(Inner

    Seorak), Waeseorak(Outer Seorak), andNamseorak(South Seorak). Naeseorak is located

    in Inje, Waeseorak in Goseong and Sokcho, and

    Namseorak in Yangyang and Inje. The mountain

    peaks and ridges have become the natural bor-

    ders dividing the regions, creating different tradi-

    tions and lifestyles for each. There are 96 moun-

    tains in Inje and some 91 percent of its total

    area consists of peaks and rivers, creating the

    depth of its valleys.

    Though the fiery-hue of autumnal foliage is

    typically the first image to grace peoples minds

    when they hear Mount Seoraksan mentioned, the

    landscape is actually pure white and snowy for

    most of the year. The mountains snow cover

    remains for so long, in fact, that is said that

    snow from Chuseok(the Korean harvest holiday

    in September) doesnt melt until Dano(the fifth

    day of the fifth lunar month, around mid-June of

    the solar calendar). This is how it earned its

    name, which in Korean means a snowy mountain

    that is difficult to climb.

    A SPIRITUAL WINTER On a recent winters day,heavy snowfall froze all roads and stopped all

    shuttle buses. Visitors to the area were told that

    they would have to walk 14km to reach

    Baekdamsa temple. The suddenly-limited traffic

    saw Baekdamsa return to its past, when it was

    once a secluded temple with few visitors. After

    walking along the solitary valley for two hours, it

    feels as if the world had widened and broadened.

    There are few people willing to take on the

    mountains, and the chirping of the birds

    HOW TO GO

    > By Bus Take a bus at Dong (East)

    Seoul Bus Terminal ([02] 446-8000) or

    Sangbong Bus Terminal ([02] 323-

    5885). The ride takes around two

    hours and 20 minutes to Inje.> By Car Take Gyeongchun

    Expressway from Seoul through Dong-

    hongcheon to Inje (an hour and 30

    minutes), or Youngdong Expressway

    through Wonju and Hongcheon to Inje

    (two hours and 30 minutes). You must

    take National Road No 44 from

    Hongcheon. For more information, call

    the Inje Tourism Information Center on

    1588-6226, [033] 460-2170 or visit

    www.inje.go.kr.

    HWANGTAE FESTIVAL, YONGDAE-RI

    > Date Feb. 26-Mar. 1, 2010

    > Address Yongdae 3-ri, Inje.For more information, call [033] 462-

    4808 or visit www.yongdaeri.com.

    BAEKDAMSA TEMPLE

    > Address 690 Yongdae-ri, Buk-

    myeon, Inje. For more information, call

    [033]462-6969, Temple Secretariat

    [033] 462-5565 or www.baekdamsa.org.

    > Temple Stay Fee Rest for one day

    (30,000 Korean won [US$27.27]), two

    days & one night (70,000 won

    [US$63.63]), three days & two nights

    (100,000 won [US$90.90]), etc.

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    MY KOREA

    Singinin the

    ROOM----------NoraebangNights

    Just how canKoreans derive such

    joy fromgathering in a dimlylit room, blasting a

    synth-cheeseversion of their

    favorite pop song,and then singingand dancing with

    face-twistingabandon?

    by Niels Footman

    photograph by

    Kim Nam-heon

    illustrations by

    Jo Seung-yeon

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    Ask a Korean the biggest cultural oddities facing a Westerner in his country, and

    you will likely hear a commentary on terrifyingly spicy food, unfailing reverence

    for the elderly or the perils of trying to master chopsticks. Ask a Westerner, how-ever, and the list transforms. What the heck is with these devil-may-care drivers?

    They will demand. Why do older people barge through me as if I didnt exist?

    And how can Koreans gather in a small room, and sing and dance with face-

    twisting abandon? True enough, karaoke, or noraebang(literally song room)

    as it is known here, is one of those oddities, but it is far from unique to Korea.

    My earliest brush with it actually took place in Hong Kong, where I lived and

    worked for three years in the mid-90s.

    My first time, as such things tend to be, was unforgettable. Though a lifelong

    lover of rock and pop music, and a passionate bathroom and mirror-front singer,

    I had never for a second countenanced going out with friends to a karaoke, much

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    less singing at one. After much prompting, and emboldened by generous amounts of

    beer, I finally summoned the courage to unleash my debut songAbbas Dancing

    Queen, if memory serves on an expectant public. Gradually shedding my stiff

    British reserve, my voice grew from a timid crackle to a triumphal bellow, drawing

    whoops of approval from my companions. It was nothing short of liberating. Havingbeen thus blooded in karaoke, I was at something of an advantage when the norae-

    bang call inevitably came in Korea. In my earliest visits there, I could see much of

    what I recalled from my previous karaoke experiences: the disco lights, cavern-esque

    rooms and tinny musical accompaniments were all present and correct.

    Yet things were a bit different here, too. For one thing, the song lists, while con-

    taining the usual English-language standards, also had strikingly outr inclusions

    (who could resist a singalong to metal titans Helloween or Pantera?). For another, in

    a country not known for its abstemiousness, most noraebang were, and still are,

    completely dry (although, thankfully for my own singing career, some places do sell

    booze). And crucially, thanks to the relative ease of learning the Korean alphabet,

    34

    KOREAFEBRUARY2010

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    hangeul, I was able from a very early stage to sing a song or two in Korean,

    which, for an audience unaccustomed to hearing a foreigner speak Korean, never

    mind sing it, was often met with something approaching hysteria.

    Subsequent noraebang visits with local friends yielded glimpses of Korea that

    no guidebook, and certainly no visit to the usual tourist sights, could ever pro-

    vide. For me, this was especially the case after I took up a job in a big publishing

    firm, where all the other staff were Korean. Every few weeks our department or,

    on bigger occasions, the entire office would troop off for the infamous hoesik, or

    after-work food and drinks, gorge on barbecued pork and soju(the local grog)

    and then, with thudding certainty, make our way to the nearest noraebang.

    The change in these people I worked with was often extraordinary. On coming

    into contact with a mic, a squelchy soundtrack and a backing video depicting

    unfeasibly happy people bounding through a Swiss hamlet, the sternest of clients

    and middle-aged office managers would transform into louche rockers or heart-

    felt crooners. The daintiest, most introverted young women would open their

    mouths to reveal lungs of fire. And while the famous Korean office hierarchy per-

    sisted even in these unceremonious surroundings

    the most junior staff wouldsing first, drinking etiquette was scrupulously maintained and no one left until

    the boss did there was, at least through the mist of several shots of whiskey too

    many, an undeniable sense of camaraderie, a feeling that tonight, at least, every-

    one was as one in the crucible of behaving very foolishly indeed.

    On the times I subsequently went in groups including newly arrived foreign

    friends, though, I was newly reminded of just how alien karaoke was to many of

    them. Some would refuse outright to sing, while others would flick endlessly

    through the pages of the song catalog, never quite finding the right one. Still

    others would choose a song, raise the mic to their mouths, then freeze and shrink

    back into their chairs. Having never experienced the joys of karaoke at home,

    these greenhorns were consumed with the kind of deep-rooted dread that only

    singing in front of their peers could inspire: A fear that their voice would be so

    bad, it would make a gaggle of alley cats sound like a barbershop quartet.

    As I had once done, though, the karaoke refuseniks were rather missing the

    point. As Ive discovered through my many visits, there can be few places any-

    where where notions of making a fool of yourself are not so much disregarded as

    simply irrelevant. While a few of my Korean noraebang companions have been

    accomplished singers who clearly put in a bit of practice, the overwhelming

    majority were unashamedly poor, murdering everything from K-pop songs to

    old, maudlin Korean ballads to Gloria Gaynor with the same relentless vigor and

    effort. But just by taking to the floor, and warbling along as best they could, they

    invariably prompted claps, cheers and equally woeful dancing among the onlook-

    ing crowd. In just this way, I have had some of my most hilarious nights out inKorea (the best ones, admittedly, helped along with a drink or six).

    Ive done P-Diddy in my native Scottish accent. Ive sung late-night Scorpions

    duets with old friends. Ive pogoed to A-has Take On Me. And, most stirring-

    ly of all, Ive stolen the show with stuttering renditions of Korean pop songs. Just

    as my friends back home would find moments of genuine poignancy by getting

    sloshed on beer, putting their arms around each others shoulders and howling

    along to the jukebox, Koreans, it has always seemed to me, find a real sense of

    togetherness in their song-room serenades. And as mystifying as karaokes may be

    for the uninitiated, the friendships formed over drunken, cacophonous norae-

    bang nights may just be the ones that stay with you the longest.

    35

    KOREAFEBRUARY

    2010

    PROFILE

    In his eight years in

    Korea, UK native Niels

    Footman has taughtEnglish, taken a

    Masters degree, edited

    at a local newspaper

    and magazine, and is

    now working in public

    relations. When hes

    not hard at work for

    his company, he loves

    writing, reading, getting

    outdoors and, of

    course, the occasional

    visit to the noraebang.

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    The UAE nuclear power plant deal is

    being hailed as a gold mine that willraise the countrys national profile. After

    setting its first nuclear power plant in

    motion in Gori in 1978, with the aid of

    US technology, Korea will now get to

    export its indigenous nuclear power

    plant (APR 1400) for the first time, ush-

    ering in a renaissance of nuclear power.

    Korean President Lee Myung-bak says

    China plans to build 100 nuclear power

    plants, with 400 additional plants by

    2030 worldwide and about 1,000 more

    in the long term. Korea has joined the

    likes of the United States, Japan, France

    and Russia as exporters of nuclear powerplants, Lee said.

    President Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed

    Al Nahyan and I discussed building com-

    prehensive and strategic partnerships in

    nuclear power as well as in education,

    the latest technology and security, Lee

    added. Our relations with the UAE

    should bring us the second Middle East

    boom. Unlike in the past, we should

    make headways in high value-added

    industries, centered on plants.

    The UAE deal includes the construc-

    tion of the first 1,400-megawatt reactor

    by 2017 and a total of four reactors, in

    the capital Abu Dhabi and Sila, 330km

    to its west, by the year 2020. Over the

    next 10 years, the construction contract

    will amount to US$20 billion, which

    would equal the amount generated by

    exporting 1 million units of mid-sized

    sedans or exporting 180 units of major

    oil tankers weighing 300,000 tons.

    Another US$20 billion will be earned

    during the 60-year lifespan of the reac-

    tors as Korea would oversee operations

    and replace equipment as necessary.

    The UAE order will generate

    110,000 jobs over 10 years, a Blue

    House official said. Considering other

    effects related to construction, equip-

    ment manufacturing, architecture,

    nuclear technology development and

    financing, the deal will have an impact

    on the nations economy as a whole.

    President Khalifa expressed hopes for

    cooperation with Korea in various fields.

    Mohamed Al Hammadi, CEO of the

    Emirates Nuclear Energy Corporation,

    said, We were impressed by the world-

    class safety the KEPCO consortium pre-

    sented and thats why we selected it.

    Hammadi, who will oversee the coun-

    trys first nuclear power plant project,

    added that the deal will be an important

    starting point for the UAE nuclear power

    industry, which will continue to develop

    into the future.

    In the bidding, we regarded safety as

    the most important factor, Al Hammadi

    explained. The KEPCO consortium

    received higher marks in safety than its

    competitors. Whether the leading con-

    sortium company could be held account-

    able for participation of its partners and

    whether the companies could honor the

    deadline were other important criteria,

    the CEO added. The consortium con-

    vinced us that it could deliver the know-

    how for 30 years of successfully operat-

    ing nuclear power plants.

    Al Hammadi then added that ENEC

    and KEPCO will form a joint venture to

    operate the UAE nuclear power plants,

    adding, The two companies will be able

    to create other joint ventures in areas

    such as fuel supply. Were also consider-

    ing sending our personnel to Korean uni-

    versities or institutes to develop our

    nuclear technology. The UAE is trying to

    reduce carbon emissions and use

    nuclear energy for peaceful purposes for

    sustainable growth, Al Hammadi con-

    tinued, We expect the two countries to

    maintain a long-term relationship.

    Nuclear power plants in Yeonggwang, South Jeolla

    Province, Korea (above). Construction of nuclear

    power plant in Gori, Korea (right).

    KoreaHydro&

    NuclearPowerCo.,

    Ltd

    MultibitsImage

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    NEW REACTOR TECHNOLOGY The APR

    1400, the nuclear reactor to be built inthe UAE, is the fruit of long-term nuclear

    power development in Korea. Its a

    third-generation light-water reactor

    based on the design, construction and

    operation of the OPR 1000, the Korean

    standard for nuclear power plants.

    To produce the APR 1400, the

    Korean government launched a project

    to develop next-generation nuclear reac-

    tor technology in 1992. By 1999, the

    basic blueprint was completed and the

    name APR 1400 came to be. In 2002, it

    won national design certification, and

    five years later, the standard was appliedto nuclear reactors in Korea.

    The 1.4-million kW unit has an opera-

    tional lifespan of 60 years and can be

    built in 54 months. This reactor is said

    to suffer less than one core damage per

    1 million years. It has 10 times the safe-

    ty and economical benefits of OPR

    1000. In terms of economics, among the

    third-generation reactors based on OPR

    1000, APR 1400 has the most competi-

    tive overnight cost per kilowatt atUS$2,300. In comparison, the figures

    for the French reactor (EPR) measured

    at US$2,900, while those for the

    Japanese (ABWR) and the US (AP 1000)

    models were US$2,900 and US$3,582,

    respectively.

    Its also convenient to operate and

    maintain. There is twice as much time

    up to eight hours from four hours to

    respond to the halting of operations,

    while the amount of time workers are

    exposed to radiation has been reduced.

    A system to make maintenance and

    inspections more convenient has alsobeen bolstered. Currently, APR 1400

    construction works are under way for the

    New Gori Nos 3 and 4, the first commer-

    cial reactors, and for New Uljin Nos 1

    and 2. A new model of APR 1400 for

    the European market is in development,

    and Korea is also trying to win US design

    certification in order to enter the

    American market.

    38

    KOREAFEBRUARY2010

    A brand-new nuclear power plant built in Gori,

    Korea, on February 28, 2009 is shown (above).

    Korean President Lee Myung-bak and the UAEs

    President Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan announced

    the results of the Korea-UAE Nuclear Power Deal

    at Abu Dhabi on December 27, 2009 (below).

    YonhapnewsAgen

    cy

    YonhapnewsAgency

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    DAWN OF THE NUCLEAR AGE The glob-

    al nuclear reactor market is expected to

    double over the next two decades.

    Today, 31 nations are running 436 reac-

    tors. By 2030, an additional 430 reac-

    tors are expected to be built. The United

    States will resume building reactors after

    a 30-year hiatus. Italy, which stopped

    building new reactors after a 1980 refer-

    endum, will join the party in 2013.

    France, one of the leading nuclear

    states, will rely on nuclear power for 78

    percent of all its electricity. Japan is also

    trying to expand its scope.

    China, the worlds largest emitter of

    greenhouse gases, is ahead of everyone

    else in nuclear power plant construction.

    It plans to increase its nuclear energy

    generation to 40 gigawatts by 2020 so

    that up to 6 percent of all its electricity

    will come from nuclear power.

    The world is turning its eyes toward

    the resource because alternative renew-

    able energies have been secured, and no

    other form of fuel can effectively reduce

    greenhouse gases. Though nuclear power

    accounts for only about 15 percent of

    electricity production, it can only

    increase from here as countries continue

    to expand their industries.

    Even considering the massive con-

    struction costs, risks of casualties and

    contamination through radiation, and

    problems with disposing of nuclear

    waste, there is hardly any doubt that

    nuclear power with no carbon emis-

    sions will replace oil and coal as the

    major source of energy. Nuclear reactor

    technology has reached a point where

    dangers can be controled and carbon

    neutrality has emerged as the new

    value for all nations.

    Many countries are in stiff competi-

    tion for contracts to build reactors. To

    construct reactors in Vietnam, Japan has

    been lobbying the government and civil-

    ians for 20 years. To make up for its loss

    over the UAE deal, France will be in hot

    pursuit of the Vietnam order. France has

    also reportedly told Kenya that it would

    like to join the African countrys first

    reactor construction in five years.

    Russia is known to have signed deals

    or to be in negotiations for deals with the

    likes of Vietnam, Egypt, Morocco,

    Malaysia, China, Brazil and Algeria over

    nuclear reactor construction or uranium

    exports. Canada and India have recently

    completed negotiations with Trinidad

    and Tobago over nuclear power coopera-

    tion and are finalizing a deal.

    The nuclear reactor market is compet-

    itive and the national strategies and sup-

    port will be the key determinant. In an

    attempt to raise its competitiveness in

    an increasingly fierce market, theKorean government plans to invest

    around US$350 million through 2017

    to turn nuclear plant construction into

    a new export industry.

    Using the UAE deal as the stepping

    stone, Korea wants to develop this niche

    industry and place it on par with semi-

    conductors, shipbuilding and automo-

    biles the leading export industries.

    The government aims to export 10 reac-

    tors by 2012, and 80 by 2030, assum-

    ing 20 percent of the global nuclear

    power plant construction market.

    The additional 80 reactors would beworth US$400 billion. Thats more than

    the entire Korean export level last year of

    US$363 billion. Building these plants

    would create 75,000 jobs annually for a

    total of 1.56 million new jobs. Revenue

    for small and medium enterprises relat-

    ed to nuclear power plant equipment

    could reach more than US$24 billion. If

    Korea can achieve all these goals, it

    would become one of three leading

    exporters of nuclear power plants.

    Today, France, the US and Japan

    make up the top three. Westinghouse

    and GE account for 28 and 20 percent

    of the market, while Areva of France,

    which has pursued deals in the past sev-

    eral years, has a 24 percent share. Japan

    entered the fray when Toshiba took over

    Westinghouse in 2006.

    To develop this into an export indus-

    try, the Korean government will concen-

    trate on the following areas: customizing

    exports and aggressively reaching out to

    nuclear power plant operation and main-

    tenance markets; making technology

    independent and promoting global com-

    petitiveness; nurturing technical experts;

    securing fuel for power plants; bolstering

    export capabilities of core materials and

    equipment; and strengthening export

    industrialization.

    By forming strategies to turn nuclear

    power plant construction into an export

    industry, weve laid the ground work for

    what will feed us over the next 50

    years, said Minister of Knowledge

    Economy Choi Kyung-hwan. We will

    concentrate our efforts on constant tech-

    nological innovation and the nurturing of

    new talent.

    ASIA

    CURRENT GLOBAL USE OF NUCLEAR POWER PLANTS AND PROSPECTS(Unit: number of plants)

    GLOBAL NUCLEAR PLANT BUILDING PROSPECTS

    (Unit: MW, number of plants in parentheses)

    RUNNING

    US25,000MW(19)

    UNDER CONST. FINALIZED PLANNED

    109 148

    EUROPE 197 932013

    N. AMERICA 122 153 22

    OTHER 8 1 6 32

    ITALY17,000MW(10)

    Source: World Nuclear Association

    POLAND10,000MW(5)

    INDIA20,000MW(15)

    VIETNAM8,000MW(8)

    CHINA79,000MW(90)

    RUSSIA36,680MW(37)

    UKRAINA27,000MW(20)

    ENGLAND6,000MW(4)

    UAE15,500MW(11)

    35 94

    39

    KOREAFEBRUARY

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    With the CEPA in effect, the tariffs on

    automobile parts will drop from 12.5percent to 1-5 percent within eight

    years. And over the next decade, tariffs

    on 85 percent of the goods will fall, thus

    opening up the export market for Korean

    companies. With a 1.15 billion popula-

    tion, India represents the worlds second

    largest market for Korea. The nations

    economic map has grown larger.

    This agreement, called a virtual FTA,

    or Free Trade Agreement, will accelerate

    the pace with which Korean companies

    have already been entering India. India

    is the next giant of the global economy,

    hotly pursued by Japan and theEuropean Union. As of 2008, India had

    the worlds second biggest population,

    and the 12th-largest gross domestic prod-

    uct at US$1.2 trillion. Its the

    fourth-largest consumer market behind

    only the United States, China and Japan.

    India is a country with tremendous

    growth potential, so much so that it

    managed a positive growth despite the

    global economic recession, said a

    researcher at the Korea Institute for

    International Economic Policy. Reach-

    ing the CEPA with India is significant

    for Korea in that it has given our

    exporters the opportunity to secure the

    huge emerging market with nearly 1.2

    billion people.

    India has reached free trade deals

    with only Singapore, Sri Lanka and

    Thailand, among others. Most are small

    countries and major economic powers

    arent among them. India is negotiating

    with Japan and the EU, but Korea is the

    first nation with economic sway to have a

    free trade deal with the country.

    From this perspective, the signing of

    the Korea-India CEPA has laid the foun-

    dation for Korean exporters to beat oth-

    ers to the massively growing market.

    Korea has signed the CEPA ahead of

    other competing powers such as China

    and Japan, said Lee Seong-han, head

    of the FTA Promotion and Policy

    Adjustment Authority under the Ministry

    of Strategy and Finance. Exports are

    expected to grow by four times the

    amount of imports.

    The main reason why India is called a

    land of opportunity is its seemingly infi-

    nite growth potential. Since 2005, India

    has maintained around a 9 percent

    annual growth rate. From April 2008 toMarch 2009, during the global econom-

    ic downturn, India averaged a 6.7-per-

    cent growth per month. Last year, the

    Indian economy is estimated to have

    grown 6.5 percent and is expected to

    grow 8 percent this year.

    Its per capita income soared from

    around US$400 in 2000 to US$1,000

    last year. Its middle class is expanding,

    making it an even more attractive emerg-

    ing power with a potentially major con-

    sumer market. The middle class consist-

    ed of 50 million (5 percent of the total

    population) this year and could rise morethan tenfold to about 583 million (43

    percent) by 2025.

    Indias economy is driven more by

    domestic consumption than by export,

    which makes it less sensitive to global

    economic shifts. The Indian government

    focuses on stimulus measures through

    tax breaks and supplying liquidity.

    The growing middle class is a huge

    strength for India, since consumption

    has also increased. Compared with

    China, it has just gotten on track for

    economic development. With sustain-

    able growth, foreign investments that

    left India previously are returning. The

    BSE Sensex index, which nosedived to

    8,000 in 2008 because of the exodus

    of foreign capital, has climbed back up

    to 20,000, the pre-economic downturn

    level.

    The biggest appeal about India is

    that its economy is growing rapidly,

    said an official at the Korea Institute for

    Industrial Economics and Trade. The

    economy is about US$1 trillion today

    but it should surpass US$2 trillion by

    2020, when India will become the

    sixth-largest economy in the world.

    Other experts say India is growing so

    fast that in 20 years, it could trail only

    the United States, China and Japan.

    We have to keep in mind that the

    CEPA with India has given Korean com-

    panies an upper hand in the Indian mar-

    ket. Prices are so important in India that

    companies there will choose cheaper

    options over its partners for 10 or 20

    years. As tariffs on most goods are elimi-

    nated thanks to the CEPA, our products

    will have that much of an edge.

    India is a country with great potential; it is the

    fourth largest market in the world, and also

    attracts lots of foreign tourists for its beautiful

    landscapes and cultural heritage, as shown by

    above and opposite images of Taj Mahal.

    YonhapnewsAgency

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    Wild WithWINTERSPORTSNot even the harsh cold weather can freezeKoreans love of winter sports. The year 2010began with a blanket of white snow covering theentirety of Seoul, accompanied by temperaturesbelow minus 10C, resulting in one of the coldest

    winters in recent memory. Despite the unbearably

    cold weather of late, the season is filled with activi-ties nobody wants to miss. From amateurs to pros,many are braving the elements to enjoy wintersports. by Oh Kyong-yon | photographs by Kim Nam-heon

    A snowboarder jumps off a slope at Phoenix Park ski resort.

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    KOREAFEBRUARY2010

    On December 11, 2009, an unusual scene was observed in the

    heart of Seoul, the capital city of the Republic of Korea. In

    Gwanghwamun Square, a 34m-high and 100m-long jump ramp

    was built and covered with snow, and top the worlds top snow-

    boarders came to show off their skills. The 2009 Seoul Snow Jam,

    co-hosted by Seoul City government and the Korea Ski Instructors

    Association, is a snowboard competition that caught the attention

    of about 200 media channels in 100 countries around the world.

    The following night, Kim Deok-kyeong, who came from out of

    town to watch the competition, commented, The place is so

    crowded with spectators its a little hard to enjoy. But he gave it

    the thumbs up because its a unique opportunity to see snow-

    boarders live, jumping from up in the skyscrapers. For those keento get involved rather than just watch, there are plenty of winter

    sports to enjoy in Seoul. Ice skating at Gwanghwamun Square,

    World Cup Park and Olympic Park is both fun and affordable

    about US$0.90 per 60 to 90 minutes.

    Lee Se-na, who has been skiing since she was five years old, is

    well-known as a ski fanatic among her friends. She cant stand the

    cold but every year she waits for winter. Until I was in college, I

    always bought a season pass and went skiing every weekend. But

    now that I have a job, I cant come so often, Lee said. When

    asked what attracted her to the sport, she said, the fresh feeling

    The landscapes of Phoenix Park ski resort (top left). World figure skating champion Kim Yu-na carried the Olympic flame in Hamilton, Canada, on last December (top right). Summer

    Goh from Singapore, in the middle, says that she likes having ski lessons in Korea (above).

    APPhoto/TheCanadianPress,

    DarrenCalabrese/YonhapnewsAgency

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    KOREAFEBRUARY

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    when I slide down the slope. I try out new techniques every time I

    descend. Carving is a popular technique now and once I master

    that, I cant say enough how accomplished I will feel.

    There are more than 20 ski resorts throughout the country,

    many in the snowy, mountainous region of Gangwon Province. Ski

    resorts are not just for skiers and snowboarders but are also the

    perfect place for families and workshop attendees, because they

    are designed as entertainment complexes that offer accommoda-

    tions. According to statistics, an estimated 6.7 million people will

    visit ski resorts in Korea this winter.

    A haven for skiers, Gangwon Province has many destination

    cities such as Pyeongchang, Hongcheon, Jeongseon and Wonju.

    KOREA headed to Pyeongchang, a county with a well-developed

    infrastructure that is currently making its third bid to host the

    Winter Olympics. Phoenix Park ski resort in Pyeongchang, a place

    thats loved by younger generations and often called Phi-park, is

    crowded with skiers and snowboarders on every slope even onweekdays. The resort has eight lifts and gondolas, all of them busy

    transporting skiers and snowboarders to the