textile craft research project

Project report by: Zaiba Yasmeen

Textile design for interiors 2012-2016

Submitted to: Mrs. Seema Mahajan Professor and Head AQS

korvai A three shuttle technique

The success and final outcome of this project required a lot of guidance and assistance from many people and I am extremely fortune to have got this all along the completion of my project work. Whatever I have done is only due to such guidance and assistance and I would not forget to thank them.

I owe my profound gratitude to my project guide Mrs. Seema Mahajan, who took keen interest in the project work and guided me all along, till the completion of my project work by providing all the necessary information for improvement in the project.

I am highly indebted to Mr. S.R. Vejai Ganesh for his guidance and constant supervision as well as for providing necessary information regarding the project & also for his support in completing the project.

I would like to express my gratitude towards all the weavers & member of co-operative societies for their kind co-operation and encouragement which helped me in completion of this project.

I would like to express my special gratitude and thanks to industry persons for giving me such attention and time.

I am thankful to and fortune enough to get constant encouragement, support and guidance from all the Teaching staffs of Textile Department which helped us in successfully completing our project work. Also, I would like to extend my sincere regards to all friends for their timely support. Any omission in this brief acknowledgement does not mean lack of gratitude.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I, ZAIBA YASMEEN, student of 6th semester BA (H) in Textile Design for Interior and Fashion, Pearl Academy, New Delhi, hereby declare that the project work entitled “TEXTILE CRAFT RESEARCH PROJECT” submitted during the academic year 2014-15 is a record of an original work done by me under the guidance of Mrs. Seema Mahajan, Professor and Head AQS . This project work is submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the award of the degree of BA(H) in Textile Design. The results embodied in this thesis have not been submitted to any other University or Institute for the award of any degree.

Date: Zaiba Yasmeen Place: New Delhi

DECLARATION

Contents

• Abstract • Objective • Introduction • Literature Review • Research Methodology • Analysis and Observations • Conclusion • Initiatives to revive korvai • Solutions • Limitations • Annexure • Bibliography

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The word korvai brings a spontaneous nostalgia feeling to everyone in Tamil Nadu. This exquisite weaving technique that is practiced by the weavers of Vadamanapakkam (cotton sarees), Rasipuram (silk sarees) and Thanjavur (silk sarees) is one of its kind and an important feather of India’s cultural cap. Korvai is one of the finest weaving technique of india and can never be replicated by power loom. The temples to drape the idols of goddesses initially bought Korvai sarees. A techniques so precious and unique it’s dying due to many social, cultural and economic reasons.

One can not be anything but impresses by the three shuttle interlocking technique used in korvai, where the wefts of the body and the border interlock to create the weave. To imagine the thought process which would have led the weavers to arrive at this technique and to think that all the hard work and labor has gone for a waste due to lack of practicing this technique causes immense pain.

Power looms are taking over handloom sarees and the value of the latter is lost in the market these days. The cost of the product is given more importance than the value and authenticity that comes along with it.

As designers, we should become sensible to this issue of the dying korvai technique and work toward the revival of the same.

ABSTRACT

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-To revive the dying technique KORVAI/ three shuttle technique.

-To study the socio-economic conditions of member weavers doing three shuttle technique.

-To analyse the impact of textile industry on member weavers’ of co-operative societies.

OBJECTIVE

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KORVAI a three shuttle technique

Korvai is rare to find, weavers finding the traditional process unviable.

While Tamil Nadu has a number of weaving traditions, and a history of handloom weaving dating back to the Sangam period, the weaving centre produces those of the Kanchipuram tradition. These silk saris require intricate weaving methods and a large investment of time by weavers.

The Korvai of Kanchipuram is one of the prized textile techniques of the South. The word ‘korvai’ in Tamil means ‘in sync’. It involves a specialised process where the borders and pallu, in contrast colour with the body, are woven separately. They are then skilfully woven into the body of the sari. Owing to various factors, including the fact that two people are generally required to operate the shuttle, this handloom sari is rapidly fading away. Many weavers have now turned to the power-loom to produce silk and cotton saris. Even those which are hand-woven do not follow the ancient process.

The contrasting colours of the borders in the weaving of the weft are interlinked with the body of the weft with each throw of the shuttle. Two weavers are required, one to operate the threads for the central portion and another to operate the border colours. Since borders often appear on both sides of the saris, each Korvai Kanjivaram sari requires three shuttles. The elaborate pallus are also linked to the main body of the sari using a special interlinking weave known as ‘pitni.’ In the hands of the skilled craftsman, this pitni looks like one continuous weave. But can be distinguished from the much easier type of weaving, i.e., the portion where the border meets the body is slightly rough and if examined closely, the meticulously woven attachment can be discerned; so too the portion where the pallu meets the body of the sari in a process called “ petni.”

Korvai is also distinguished by its motifs, often inspired by the beautiful carvings found in the temples of Kanchipuram. The hallmark of the Korvai is its vivid colours and contrasting borders. A pearly-white sari with a bold maroon border or a grass-green sari with a tangerine border are stunning results of the Korvai.

The Korvai-weaving technique is a timeless classic, passed on from one generation of weavers to another. In the wake of the power loom revolution, this technique seemed to be replaced by easier and cheaper substitutes. Today, however, there is a gradual revival of this art and it is considered a treasure among Kanjivaram silks.

INTRODUCTION

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Kanchipuram has acquired an important status in India by the production & sales of its renowned handloom silk saris. The weaving of silk saris dates back to the Pallava & Chola periods and is flourishing since then. Because of the uniqueness and the weave quality, the Kanchipuram silk saris have conquered the hearts of millions of Indian women. And now, the Kanchipuram Silk Saris are covered under Geographical Indications Act. The specialties of Kanchipuram silk saris is its weight, color, pallu and the zari border.The Kanchipuram saris are woven using pure silk & original zari. With the changing preferences and life styles of the peoples weavers in Kanchipuram now incorporate contemporary trends in their weaving techniques without losing their traditional values. The Kanchipuram Kamakshi Amman Silk Cooperative Weaving Society was established in 1955 as the first silk weavers' cooperative society and the Kanchipuram Murugan Silk Cooperative Society was established in 1957 both are under the control of the Department of Handlooms & Textiles, Govt. of Tamilnadu and at present operates more than 1000 looms and having showrooms in Kanchipuram, Chennai and in all important towns in Tamilnadu and Karnataka. A Kanchipuram sari without zari designs costs above Rs. 3500/- and a jacquard silk sari with full zari design costs about Rs. 35,000/- For the forthcoming festive and wedding season, this society had developed a number of unique and innovative designs in silk saris like Zari Jangla, Kalanjali, Natyanjali, Chettinad, Vastrakala, Vana Shingar, Warp Jacquard and many more traditional and trendy designs to meet the demands of changing consumer preferences. The Kanchipuram Kamakshi Amman Silk Society in Kanchipuram is renowned for its special wedding sarees like Swarna Pookkal, Thanga Pezhai that carry a price tag of around Rs.1,00,000/- for nine yard silk saris. The Sirpakala Pattu is exquisitely designed and woven by the acclaimed weavers of Kanchipuram Murugan Silk Cooperative Society and are based on the sculptures of the world famous Halebid Hoysaleshvara temple in Karnataka. The hand work of the weavers has captured the everlasting beauty of the exquisite sculptures in the saris. The pallu of the sari is adorned by the beautiful Apsaras images, the borders with Elephant and Annam (Swan) motifs and the body of the sari plant twines with flower designs are hand woven using the traditional and contemporary weaving techniques. Each of these beautiful saris are created by the handwork of three weavers using 520gms of Silk and 571gms of Silver jari gilded in pure gold.

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Literature Review

Handloom sector is an important cottage industry in India and is a very old profession. Handloom weavers are known for their knowledge, innovation and brilliance in designs. Weaving is now considered almost an art from considering deployment of skills and knowledge. This sector, estimatedly, provides employment for more than 15 million people and is second largest rural employment provider next to agriculture. In Tamil Nadu, there are more than 3 lakh handloom weaving families. In comparison with other traditional rural sectors, handloom weaving is a full-time family profession, involving all the members of the family. Presently, handloom weavers are facing severe livelihood crisis because of adverse government policies, globalisation and changing socio-economic conditions. However, in the present situation, there are too many issues, which are impinging on the development of the handloom sector. So, there is a need to develop broader understanding of its multidisciplinary perspective, which is more needed in the present circumstances of global isation and environmental degradation, particularly in relation to development. So an attempt is made to study the blow of textile industry on member weavers of silk handloom co-operative societies in Kanchipuram District.

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Statement of the Problem

With liberalisation of Indian economy, the modern textile industry has posed serious threat to the traditional handloom industry. Rapid technological upgradation and automation in textile industry has made high volume of production of a variety of quality synthetic and cotton textile items, enjoying competitive advantage over the handloom products. The handloom industry, both in co-operative and private sector, with its vast rural work force especially of weaver communities is confronted with challenge of competitive economic environment. The weakening position of handloom sector in the wake of global competition of textile industry has posed a serious threat to the socio-economic life of the traditional weaver communities, in general and to the socio-economic status of silk weavers in particular. The study has critically examined the change in status and pattern of employment of weaver communities engaged in handloom weaving in Kanchipuram. Besides, the extent of their productive utilisation, nature, seasonality and remunerativeness their jobs, their role and contribution in production of handloom items, social and economic constraints, work participation, change in their social and economic status in the family and community, change in employment and working condition, new problems and risks perceived by them in their occupation and work environment have also been studied. The study suggests effective strategies to enhance their socio-economic status and quality of life through necessary provision of better facilities, welfare support and improved means of livelihood. The study has reviewed the prevailing employment status and working condition of the weavers particularly member weavers in silk handloom co-operative societies in context with their social and economic benefits and security.

Opinion and Attitude of the Member Weavers about the Blow of Textile Industry

Majority of the member weavers engaged in weaving activities reported that the overall functional performance and service delivery system of the co-operative societies have significantly declined. As regards technical guidance, training, supervision and monitoring, almost all the member weavers rated the co-operative societies as “very poor”. The reasons of dissatisfaction of the member weavers on the functioning of the cooperative societies mostly pertain to inadequate and irregular supply of raw materials, low off-take and poor marketing support for handloom silk products.

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Textile Industry in Tamil Nadu

Tamil Nadu is one of the most industrialised states in India. There are other industries as well but the state is particularly known for its textile industry. There are large number of textile mills around the city of Coimbatore, which is also known as ‘Manchester of South India’ because of its textile and spinning mills. Other cities that are contributing to the growth of industry in Tamil Nadu include Tirupur (famous for knitwear), Karur (known for home textiles exports), and Erode (famous for its handlooms).   The city of Tirupur is also known as the Textile Valley of India. There are about 7,000 garment units in the town that provide employment to around one million people. Tirupur’s exports of knitted garments amounted to over 2 billion USD in 2007.

Tamil Nadu hosts 893 large and medium textile mills out of the total 2049 in India. The percentage is even more for the smaller units. Out of the 996 small units, 792 are in Tamil Nadu. The industry has a great contribution to the country’s economy by providing direct employment to an estimated 35 million people. It contributes 4% of GDP and 35% of Gross Export Earnings in the country.  

Textile Infrastructure in Tamil Nadu

The industry in Tamil Nadu has experienced growth in the past decade. It is largely export oriented now and the customers include major European and US clothing brands and retailers.

The brands and retailers generally do not make the products however they design, brand, market and sell them. Tamil Nadu has apparently adopted the same model.

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RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

A survey was conducted among member weavers of co-operative societies in Kanchipuram District in Tamil Nadu. These district represent a high number of handloom weavers co-operative societies in Tamil Nadu. The study covered very small percent of the respondent of total population of selected co-operative society weavers. Further, only member weaver of handloom co-operative societies were considered for the present study.

The study involves the collection of primary as well as secondary data. The primary data were collected directly from handloom weaving units and constituting the major source of data for the study. The primary survey was conducted among 48 member weavers of co-operatives. For this purpose an interview schedule was prepared for obtaining necessary information. The secondary data relating to handloom industry were collected from the recorded reports from the office of the handloom and textiles, published and unpublished literature and also internet source has been referred to. The collected data were tabulated and analysed properly in accordance with the objectives of the present study. The collected data has been analysed and interpreted with the use of some statistical tools such as frequency distribution, percentage, mean, standard deviation to arrive at afore said objectives.

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Profile of Weavers engaged in Weaving

The primary survey was conducted among member weavers of co-operatives engaged in traditional handloom weaving. Among the weaver members of the weaver families, nearly 1/3rd of them were reported literate. It is heartening to note that majority of the weaver members of the weaver families do possess some relevant skill relating to weaving. Weaving has been a traditional occupation of these households and members of the weaver households have acquired such skills from their childhood. Among the weavers few of them have undergone relevant vocational training. The vocational training undergone by them mostly pertain to weaving, dying, fabrics design etc. Most of the weaver members of the weaver families reported exclusively depending on weaving as their sole occupation. It is found that the weaver members engaged in weaving activities are employed for about 180 days in a year. Further, it was revealed that half of the weavers engaged in weaving for 11-15 hours a day and others work for period of 7-8 hours per day. The average hours of work per day per worker in Co-operative sectors worked out 11 hours.

Almost all of the weavers surveyed had houses with asbestos and tin roof having 2 to 4 rooms in their houses. As regards environmental sanitation, it is noticed that majority of the selected weaver households do not posses any toilet in their houses. Open field defecation is widely prevalent among the weaver community in rural areas.

Nearly half of the member weavers reported that the weaving activities of the family has seriously been affected due to competitive pressure of modern textile industry. Most of the weavers reported that modern textile items are available at relatively cheaper prices affecting market for handloom silk products. Textile products being manufactured by organised spinning mills offer variety of design and fabrics and attract more number of consumers, squeezing the market size for traditional handloom products.

There has been steady decline of the functional performance of the weaver co-operative societies as a result of growing competition caused by the organised modern textile industries. The competitive situation caused by the modern textile industry has resulted in complete stoppage and stagnation of the societies, decreased sales volume, low and irregular supply of raw materials, irregularity of wage payment, reduction of members, weakening of the financial status

In spite of stiff competition and resulting weakening of their traditional business, almost all the weaver families are still continuing their traditional business, with much hardship.

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Sarees weaved in the co-operative societies

ANALYSiS AND OBSERVATION

The weavers co-operative society buys yarn in bulk from the co-operative spinning mills and gets the same dyed in private or co-operative dye factories. The yarn so dyed is distributed to the members for weaving and the members have to deliver the cloth within a stipulated period which is normally 15 days. As yarn is issued for weaving a particular type of cloth such as saris, towels and dhoties in fixed numbers, the members will have to first arrange for the pre-loom processing of yarn. The yarn is warped and sized and the warp is fitted into looms well is also simultaneously prepared on small bobbins to be fitted into the flying shuttle. Since the member is to engage skilled weavers in these processes, he needs money to pay wages to them, for which purpose the society may pay him an advance called piece advance cloth can be delivered to the society in pieces as and when it is woven. In each delivery, some societies pay wage advance to the members, when the member delivers all the given number of pieces of cloth item, he is paid all his wages calculated at piece rate, after deducting his piece and wage advance. Besides these advances the society also issues 'cash advance' on loans to help the member tide over financial difficulties on certain occasions like festivals and death of a member of the family. This advance is recovered in instalments from the wages. When the member settles account for the set of yarn by delivering a corresponding set of a given item of cloth, he can get yarn for weaving further and this process continues. If the member does not make delivery of cloth within three months from the date of issue of yarn, the value of yarn and other materials issued is classified as over-dues and the society will have to take steps for the recovery of the same.

Operations of weavers co-operative societies

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The co-operative societies, which are playing an important role for supplying raw material for traditional silk weaving, have been relegated to a very miserable position. The scarcity of funds and operational weakness of most of the co-operative societies has been responsible for decreased dependence of the weaver communities on them for procuring raw materials.

The weaver co-operative societies have failed to ensure steady supply of yarns to its members to maintain continuity in silk production. Among the various kinds of goods woven, it is interesting to note that almost all the weavers engaged in weaving sarees.

The competitive pressure exerted by modern textile products has created perceptible change in the acceptance and the choice of customer segment for silk handloom products. Due to growing deterioration of functional performance of the weaver co-operative societies, majority of the weaver community has switched over to direct marketing.

Blow of textile industry on Handloom Weaving

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Blow of Textile Industry on Socio-Cultural life of the Member Weavers engaged in Handloom Weaving

OBC'sSTSC

nuclearjoint

CompletelyModeratelyMildly

SkilledLearningUnskilled

Literacy Level It is heartening to note that majority of the weaver members of the weaver families do possess some relevant skill relating to weaving. Only few of the weaver members are learning and few were reported being unskilled.

Condition of family The families interviewed of the member weavers were mostly nuclear as it is easy to take of the responsibilities of a small family.

Weavers divided into communities Among the total number of sample weavers engaged in handloom sector, 76.46% of them belongs to other backward communities. And out of the 76.46% this how the backward communities are divide.

Household Facilities Almost all the member weavers reported facing financial difficulties in giving primary schooling facilities to their children due to decline in their family based weaving activities.

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The impact on living style and social status of the weavers engaged in silk weaving activities have been analysed with regard to their food intake, Children’s education, health and sanitation, participation in the community activities, domestic energy used, accessibility to means of entertainment.

As reported by almost all the member weavers, the health status of the family members has declined due to deterioration of their livelihood condition. Their capacity to provide better health care facilities have decreased due to their falling standard of living as a result of deterioration of their traditional silk weaving activities. The effect was considered marginal for majority of the member weaver families. Almost all the member weavers reported facing financial difficulties in giving primary schooling facilities to their children due to decline in their family based silk weaving activities.

Since most of the member weavers in rural areas commonly used fuel wood, dung cake, kerosene etc. as their cooking fuel, there has been limited effect of their handloom business on use of cooking fuel used by member weavers.

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Blow of Textile Industry on Economic Status of Member Weavers of Co-operative Societies

Only WeavingWeaving and Other occupation

11-15 hours7-8 hours

Drastically reducedModeratelyNo change

Occupation to survive Weaving has been a traditional occupation of these households and members of the weaver households have acquired such skills from their childhood.

Functional Performance As the co-operative societies lack in providing the member weavers sufficient raw material it has drastically affect the performance.

Working Hours The average hours of work per day per worker in Co-operative sectors worked out 11 hours and are employed for about 180 days in a year.

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With growing competition posed by the modern textile industry, spinning mills and power looms, the handloom industry has steadily deteriorated over the last decade, rendering thousands of weavers especially the silk weavers unemployed and under employed, resulting in large scale closure of several societies, which used to provide support weaving activities in rural area. Many weaver co-operative societies are passing through operational and financial crisis.

In scenario where power loom and modern textile industry have adversely affected the traditional silk handloom sector, the weaver communities have been pushed down to the lower strata of the economic ladder. As a whole, the average annual weavers income has decreased to a large extent. It shows that the poor weaver community has been able to cope with negative effect of the competitive environment to some extent.

Apart from the above,, member weavers that they are in search of other additional sources of income in addition to their existing silk handloom weaving activities.

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Opinion and Attitude of the Member Weavers about the Blow of Textile Industry

Inadequate supplyAdequate supply

Deteriorated No change

DissatisfiedModerately satisfiedSatisfied

Supply of raw material The weaver members expressed their dissatisfaction on the role and performance of the co-operative societies in the context of arranging and supplying required quantity of yarns to its weaver members, at present.

Health facilities The capacity to provide better health care facilities have decreased due to their falling standard of living as a result of deterioration of their traditional weaving activities.

Quality and quantity of food intake The member weavers reported that the quality and quantity of food intake have deteriorated due to slackening of their weaving operation and dwindling position of co-operative societies.

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Majority of the member weavers engaged in weaving activities reported that the overall functional performance and service delivery system of the co-operative societies have significantly declined. As regards technical guidance, training, supervision and monitoring, almost all the member weavers rated the co-operative societies as “very poor”. The reasons of dissatisfaction of the member weavers on the functioning of the cooperative societies mostly pertain to inadequate and irregular supply of raw materials, low off-take and poor marketing support for handloom silk products.

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DISTRIBUTION CHANNEL

• Wholesalers. • Importers/distributors. • Commission agents/sales representatives. • Department stores. • Mail-order . • Internet sales. • Co-operative sales shops.

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• Low capital investment and high ratio of value addition.

• Aesthetic and functional qualities. • Wrapped in mist of antiquity. • H a n d m a d e a n d h e n c e h a s f e w

competitors. • Variety of products which are unique. • Exporters willing to handle small orders,

STRENGHTS

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• Inconsistent quality • I n a d e q u a t e m a r k e t s t u d y a n d

marketing strategy • Lack of adequate infrastructure and

communication facilities • Capacity to handle limited orders • Untimely delivery schedule • U n a w a re n e s s o f i n t e r n a t i o n a l

standards by many players in the market

WEAKNESSES

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• Better quality products produced by competitors.

• Better terms of trade by competitors. • Consistent quality and increasing focus

on R&D by competing countries. • Better packaging. • Stricter international standards.

THREATS

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• Rising appreciation for handicrafts by consumers in the developed countries

• Widespread novelty seeking. • Large discretionary income at disposal

of consumer from developed countries. • Growth in search made by retail

chains in major importing countries for suitable products and reliable suppliers. Opportune for agencies to promote marketing activities.

• U s e o f e - c o m m e r c e i n d i r e c t marketing.

OPPURTUNITIES

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CONCLUSION

Majority of weaver members of the silk co-operatives feel that due to a various reasons they do not get job satisfaction in their present occupation. Due to globalisation and modernisation of textile industry the handloom co-operative weavers face lot of problems like meagre wages, poor working conditions, inadequate non-monetary benefits, and insufficient work throughout the year. Thus, the involvement of members and opinion will certainly improve the performance of silk weavers’ co-operative societies not only in study area but also in other areas. So, the Government should take necessary steps to overcome the problems of handloom weavers and improve the social status of the weavers.

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Suggestions of the member weavers to protect the handloom sector

-Almost all the member weavers demanded that the yarns should be available at reasonably subsidised price to make silk handloom products competitive and affordable. -The silk handloom cooperative societies should be strengthened to help the weaver community to adopt new design and technology and diversify their products to capture much wider market. -Necessary support should be provided to weaver communities for technological innovation of their production process. -The handloom co-operative societies which have played pivotal role in the development and growth of silk handloom industries in the state are currently passing through operational, administrative and financial crisis. In the light of growing composition caused by the modern textile industries and spinning mills, it is imperative to suitably restructure and rehabilitate the ailing societies through provision of liberal package of measures, aids and facilities. -Modernisation of the looms and allied accessories is the most important step in increasing the productivity of weaving of operation and ensuring high quality handloom silk products. -Publicity is one of the essential factors, which influence the sale of consumer products. Since the weavers co-operative societies are unable to bear the expenses of publicity. -Most of the weaver members involved in silk weaving are illiterates. As they are uneducated, they face many problems in knowing the modern techniques in weaving, in utilising the welfare schemes of the Government, in getting financial assistance from banks and other similar funding agencies. Hence, it is essential to create awareness among the weaver members by implementing mass and non-formal education programmes and impart training on weavers. -In consideration of large-scale poverty among the silk handloom weavers in the state, there is an imperative need to improve the lot of silk handloom weaver by giving high priority to support the poor weavers under various ongoing poverty alleviation and income-generating programme.

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where there is a will, there is an action

Tradition with a twist

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Hyderabad-based designer Gaurang Shah, a known connoisseur of Indians textiles, gave a colourful and modern twist to this timeless weaving technique from Kancheepuram. His Chitr-Sena collection using the korvai tradition included ghagras, flowing anarkalis, ijaar pants (long pants), embroidered cigarette pants and saris in bright shades of blue and green and also grey and brown with specks of yellow, pink and orange.

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Brand using the technique! NALLI SAREES

The design team at Nalli is trying to revive this ancient craft by making korvai Sarees with minimum designs and contemporary colours. The temple motif in the pallu adds extra ordinary elegance to the piece.

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“Don't let it die. Buy a few, patronise them.”

Sabita Radhakrishna of CCI who was interested in reviving the technique of Korvai came in contact with S.R. Vejai Ganesh who belongs to a family of hereditary weavers belonging to the Saurashtrian community that settled in Thanjavur. She provided him with designs from her personal collection and encouraged him to start producing traditional type of saris using this method. They employ 35 weavers.

The craftspersons are encouraged to showcase quality products through competitions organised through international organisations such as the World Crafts Council and the UNESCO. Prestigious awards are conferred for the best of craft.

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Facebook community

Korvai Kaya, has been established with the sole intention of sustaining the craft "Korvai"-from Vadamanapakkam

link- https://www.facebook.com/korvaikaya/timeline

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Trapped in textiles

I myself as a designer feels that we should focus more on the revival of the traditional crafts which are dying one by one for one reason or the other.

This particular beautiful art, KORVAI with its wealth of designs should languish and these steps can be done to save it from extinction.

-Traditional weaving could be a studio craft, weavers can be trained and paid a salary and the yardage can be used to make what this generation prefers to wear, for modern silhouettes.

-It can be used for furnishings and accessories.

-Encouraging the upcoming designers to introduce the craft to everyday wear.

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LIMITATIONS

The major limitation i faced was the time constraint as we were given only two months to study and research about the craft chose by us. Two months is a very short period of time to learn about the craft which has been practiced for so long.

Other problem faced was in communication. As the weavers know only their native language, one member from the co-operative society was their to help me to communicate with the weavers.

The aim of the research project was to make the lives of the weavers better and assure that they get what they deserve for their beautiful deeds. So that the exquisite Korvai can be sustained. The aim is very essential because, only one out of 350 weavers is currently willing to revive the Korvai sarees. Hence, it was hard to find the weavers doing the same.

Since weaving these sarees is hard work and the returns are low, the weavers have started encouraging their children to look occupations with guaranteed income and job security. Which results into even less weavers knowing the technique. So it is very hard to convince them to teach their children the art of korvai because inspite of the hard work done they face problem financially.

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Annexure

-The Kancheepuran Thiruvallivur Silk Weaver’s Co-operative Society ltd. No.-313, (old no. 207), Gandhi Road, Kancheepuram-631501 Phone: 044-272222187

-Kancheepuran Vallar Handloom Weaver’s Co-operative Society ltd. No. 133/86, A&B Gandhi Road Kancheepuram-631501 Phone: 044-27232106

-Loom World Anna Pattu Valagam, No. 72, Vallal Pachaiyappan Street, Kancheepuram-631501 Phone: 044-27222148

-The Kancheepuram Weaver’s Co-op Production No. 443, Gandhi Road, (Opp. To Mutheeswarar Temple) Kancheepuram-631501 Phone: 044-27222078

-Kancheepuram Kamakshi Amman Silk Co-op Society Phone: 044-272223002 Chennai: 044 28192851

-Malar boutique No. 103 nungambakkam high road Chennai -600034 044-8270571

-T.V. Pattu Maaligai No. 350 pantheon road Egmore Chennai - 600008 044-8260775

-Vanavil handloom palace *wrong address* No. 271 Anna Salai Chennai 600018 044-4336346

Co-operative societies

• what kind of research • apply into interior • who will help me • problems they facing • others who are trying not successful why? competitors • time constrains • fabric • money • artisans limitations • designs will run on home furnishing? • fabric constraints thicker for home • changes for home so that sell well same forms or different? • changed weaves, mixing of different techniques • problems artisans are facing? hierarchy? • willing to take ahead? • dropping out of ngos. how many are joining? Co-opertives

societies • wages? not enough so drop out. • real situations of artisans in the sector • government initiatives • schemes and policies. government subsidised education free?

ration? • places in which they work. hygienic places? • diversify product to make more money • how are going to use it? profit or loss? • what is there to find out? • quality worth the price. product? • government help? subsidy? • value adding chain in crafts • competitive situations • market access • product standards • distribution channel • strengths? weaknesses? • opportunities? threats? • why they are buying it why aren't? • address location city name date.

Questions asked for the research

Name of the member weavers

• Rameshkumar • Nagendra • Nagrajan • Raukajan • Rajini • Prema • Gopi • Shaji • Gopalakrishan • SAjith • Dhamapalan • Adhvan • Sungaraj • Ramaurthy • Mohana • Kavitha • Arulrajan • SAmasundaram • Kalyanan • Bavanthi • Sulaiman • Jayapal • Kandalp • Siragami

• Abid husain • Kalayappan • Perumal • Thangapalan • Nandagopal • Kurripuah • Senthilvel • Nagaraj • Lalitha • Chandran • Shaktivel • Govindaswami • Vejai • Krishnaraman • Rajarethinam • Prabhakaran • Ramalingam • Nagarajan • Manickram • Rajanathan • Kupuswamy • Srinivasan • Swaminathan • Dhanapal

Bibliography

Books

Chisti, R.K., (2000). Handcrafted Indian Textiles: Tradition and Beyond. 3rd ed. Lustre Press.

Gillow, J, (1991). Traditional Indian Textiles. 1st ed. Thames and Hudson.

Lynton, L, (1995). The sari. 1st ed. Singapore: H.N. Abrams.

Ranjan, M.P., (2007). Handmade in India. 1st ed. India: Council of Handicraft Development Corporation (COHANDS), New Delhi.

Journals

Azhar, R, (2013). Trapped in Textiles. NewJurist. (1), pp.12

Biswas, S, (2014). Tradition with a twist. The Telegraph. (1), pp.2

Naidu, L.S, (2014). Handlooms Weaver's Co-operative Society. Researchjournali’s Journal of Commerce. 2 (3), pp.11

Sanatham, K, (2011). The original Kanchipuram silk from Co-operative societies. The Hindu. (1), pp.1

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Websites

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Any3 (2011). Vanishing Weavers. [ONLINE] Available at: http://any3arkeez.blogspot.in. [Last Accessed 28 January 2015].

Asia Inch Encyclopaedia (1999). South Indian Heritage. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.craftrevival.org/CraftArtDetails.asp?CountryCode=India&CraftCode=003701. [Last Accessed 20 January 2015].

Craft Council Of India. Blogs. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.craftscouncilofindia.org/what-we-do/. [Last Accessed 09 January 2015].

India Marks. The best known weaves of India. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.indiamarks.com/the-best-known-ethnic-weaves-and-prints-of-india/#. [Last Accessed 10 January 2015].

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Kartikeyan, B (2013). Korvai kaya. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.facebook.com/korvaikaya. [Last Accessed 5 January 2015].

Radhakrishna, S (2008). Exhibition to showcase textiles. [ONLINE] Available at: http://sabitaradhakrishna.net/articles/crafts-council-of-india-exhibition.html. [Last Accessed 11 February 2015].

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Santhanam Kausalya (2011). Classic on the verge of Extinction. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.thehindu.com/features/friday-review/history-and-culture/classic-on-the-verge-of-extinction/article2555278.ece. [Last Accessed 11 January 2015].

Tantuvi. History of handlooms. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.tantuvi.com/history.htm. [Last Accessed 10 January 2015].