La Paz. Bolivia

The Fighting Cholitas

(Female Wrestlers of Bolivia)

Until recent decades, the indigenous Aymara and Quechua women -

easily identified by their very distinctive and elegant outfits

- would be refused entry to certain restaurants, taxis and even

some public buses.

For generations, they were not permitted to walk freely in the

capital La Paz's central square, Plaza Murillo - home to the

presidential palace - nor in wealthy suburbs such as the city's

Zona Sur. Predominantly rural peasants who had migrated to the

cities, they were seen as a lower strata who stayed in the home,

or worked as servants, or hawkers.

“We have more confidence now, we can walk where we like."

The dress is classic cholita. While fashions and seasons change

for cholas, as for everyone, none can stray from the uniform of

a heavy multi-layered skirt with petticoats, long shawl,

precariously perched bowler hat, jewellery and little flat

pumps.

Cholitas have always had pride in their culture, they have

reclaimed their image with a confidence that has, for the most

part, come from massive social change.

A gradual rise of grassroots movements in Bolivia - mostly lead

by rural peasant groups - which culminated in the 2005 election

of the country's first indigenous president, Evo Morales, has

been credited with the country's ongoing transformation.

Women and indigenous people have been a particular focus of new

policies and laws designed to end the elitism of the past.

While poverty and inequality remain, Bolivia's economy is

growing. With more money circulating and with many cholitas

being commerciantes - sellers of goods - they have more money to

spend, and it shows.

Secret Intelligence Service

(C-I) Room No. 15

Adversitate. Custodi. Per Verum