o paraphrase the good Dr. Freud, what do men really want? The answer is surprisingly simple: men want luxury. The Spartan past of generic

blue jeans, scratchy budget tee-shirts, and a blue-label haircut are gone like yesterday, baby. In pushback against world economic austerity, in celebration of global gender emancipation, why should men settle for a disposable dollar single-blade razor that’s as dull as a butter-knife, or a weak near-beer that tastes like freshman year?Bargain-bin loafers? So over. Make it a pair of premium

Lads of Luxury

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lambskin driving shoes, with a premium roadster to match, top-shelf tequilas instead of no-name brewskis. Prestige goods matched by prestige looks. This season heralds princely arrivals, where men’s hair is treated like the plumage of a rare and endangered species, given the likelihood of male pattern baldness.

Just a little

self-indulgence Whitney VerMeer, Men’s Director for HAUS Salons in Minneapolis, MN reports from the mighty, and usually stoic, American heartland: “I think people crave luxury now because of the demands we put on ourselves. Let’s face it—it’s a rat-race out there and at the end of the day, it’s worth it to pamper yourself.” John Mosely, Expert Barber, Popular Nobody for Paul Mitchell, comments, “Some guys are even going to the spa as much as their female counterparts. In terms of men’s grooming, being able to kick back in a comfortable barber’s chair to get a close shave is a luxury. It’s more than just a haircut –it’s a time to let go and let someone else take care of you, which is what men are really looking for these days.”He adds, “It’s offering the service upgrades for the men who are looking for more. Luxury means being offered an adult beverage, a cigar roller, and maybe even a facial. These are all extra ways I make men who are sitting in my chair feel they are getting the most out of their money, that the experience is special, and they are well taken care of.”If you want a glimpse of what going au naturel really looks like, tune in to a few minutes of any random episode of “Naked and Afraid” on the Discovery

Forget about roughing it, sucking it up and doing without. And forget all about denying life’s little pleasures. Real men indulge and go high-test all the way.Victoria Thomas

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It’s time to stop thinking

of your look and

grooming as disposable,

and embrace your inner

fabulousness. Invest a bit

more time, energy and

thought in your profile for

a cutting-edge statement.

trends 17

Channel. Ingrown beard-hairs, outsized toenails, sun-parched dehydration of the skin and stuff stuck between your teeth are just the beginning. Every guy — and many a gal — likes to fancy ourselves as sugar in the raw. But the fact is that just past our teens, the aging process sets in — slowly, subtly but inexorably. This means that expert interven-tions by salon professionals at regular intervals are needed to keep that seemingly effortless glow. Okay, so it’s not effortless. The trick is to make it look like you do give a damn, but didn’t try too hard.Jessica Zeinstra, men’s hair designer and educator for Andis, sees it this way: “I think people are craving luxury because we're coming out a recession where a lot of people had to scale back

The matted “I woke up like this” effect gets a wakeup call to grooming

their spending. We're at a point now where people have more expendable income and they want to treat themselves for all of their hard work.”

to part, or not?Parting is such sweet sorrow-or rather, the perfect part is such a masterful art. Must we then say goodbye forever to scraggly? Zenistra says, I'm really loving longer, shaggy hair on guys. But I was recently in Italy and I saw a surprising number of rat-tails. PLEASE don't make that a thing. If you have one and are super into it, I respect that, but I really hope it doesn't catch on!”Of course, to every thing there is a season. Many guys like to keep hair more tightly styled in the

Lauren Milner for Wahl defines a luxury haircut as one which continues to look great as it grows out—what she calls “hand-crafted haircut”.

Offset the severity of a hard parting with flyboy elevation, using buildable paste or wax - matte is newer than glossy.

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love with short, clean, tapers/fades on the sides and back with a bit of texture on top. Whether it is comb-over, spiky or curly on top, I prefer a matte or natural finish product that adds texture and interest. I'm also glad beards are back! Just making sure that they are kept tidy and cared for the same as you would the hair on the head. However I am totally over the longer shaggy haircuts. The days of disheveled long hair are over and look very unkempt. Also over the 3-5 day beard stubble look.  Either shave everyday or grow a beard!"Dale Delaporte, editorial hair stylist and Creative Director at Prema, using Goldwell products,

says matter-of-factly of hair services for guys, “If it didn’t feel luxurious, it wasn’t. Go some-where that will go that extra step, and treat you well. Walk out feeling like a million bucks.”So what’s hot, what’s not? Delaporte says buh-bye to Don Draper: “The ‘MAD MEN’ look has peaked. The tight skin-fade with a sleek wet look on top is on its way out.” Instead, think “longer, more naturally textured, loose and carefree. But don’t for a second think that you can forgo caring for your cut.” This means great products and a bit of attention daily.Phillip Carreon, celeb stylist and Creative Director for Eufora International and owner of one of LA’s hippest salon, Estilo,

summer and adopt a bit more of a haute hirsute effect when the snow flies. Rule of thumb from the style cognoscenti: if your hair is wild, including a burly beard, keep your fashion super-square. Louche locks wear best against attire which is classically trim, tailored, buttoned-down and expensive. Unless you’re off to a costume ball, or you are Keith Richards, or both, do not combine any of the following: hair longer than collar-length, velvet frock coat, ruffled pirate shirts, puffy sleeves, suede pants, lace, fringed anything, diaphanous scarves, trailing earrings, twee boots, big-pimpin’ gangsta hats, furs, feathers, or any jewelry more obvious than a good watch and a wedding band.Lauren Milner, Wahl Education and Artistic Team (W.E.A.T.) member, says, “I am totally in

Whitney VerMeer, HAUS Salons, says, “When using clippers, I cut free-hand, without plastic guards. This creates a far more custom shape for the individual.”

Today luxury is a customized cut you canlive with as it grows out

comments, “Luxury is all about the salon experience, and helping a man recreate the salon look for himself. The Eufora Hero for Men™ product collec-tion means that the haircut will continue to look stellar for the man until he returns for his next cut and color. That’s the defini-tion of new, modern luxury.” A look Carreon says he is “over” in any form: Mohawks.Anthony Cole, Sebastian Stylist Design Team Member, says “My all-time favorite is old Hollywood looks. Beautifully crafted waves with a slight bit of deconstruction. I’m not really fond of literal 80s looks, such as mullets and very hard-edged spiky crowned haircuts. I’m definitely more for the classic, luxurious locks.”

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WHat You paY forGregory Patterson, Los Angeles-based Celebrity Hairstylist International and Elite Brand Ambassador for the FHI collection of brands, says “I think we have learned that when we do invest, we get more longevity and use out of whatever it is we purchased and therefore the investment is more justifiable.” What he is SO OVER, honey: “A look on men that I could see go away, anytime now, are MAN BUNS! I’m over that term and I’m over that look!” He loves the faded pompadour, which he describes as “a clean

classic look that has been reinvented using modern cutting techniques.”Also one of Patterson’s coastal favorites: “Loose, soft beach waves. This type of wave is achieved by using a flat iron, and it’s just so effortless and achievable on many hair lengths, types and textures. I am also loving the sleek, high-shine hard center-part styles either tucked behind the ear, or secured into a low ponytail. This look is so incredibly chic and perfect for many occasions both in the daytime and into the evening.”Even in Los Angeles, where everyone is still dizzy keepingup with the Kardashians, Patterson cites mindfulness as key to the new meaning of modern luxury: “The most essential qualities of a luxurious experience to me are authentic listening. I express this in my work by being genuinely present with my guest. Whether I am in a rush or the guest is, I always take at least a few minutes to

‘be with my guest’ in conversation that has nothing to do with his or her service. Its important for me to make certain that my guest feels that I am there for them.”Joel Torres, TIGI Creative Director for Latin America, sums it up this way: “Men want an experience they can recreate at home once the service is over. For instance, they’re looking for ingredients like activated charcoal in shampoos like Bed Head for Men Wise Up Shampoo…”— to give hair body and snap just like it did in the salon. He adds, “They’re looking to indulge in more premium services.

looKing for tHe

fountain of YoutHAntiaging technologies are a big hit within the men’s market.” Guys want to look distinguished, not creaky.Mature—or 50 shades of gray—is hot. Ben Barkworth, Scruples Educator and INDIE HAIR Team Member, says “The new Scruples Power Blonde Ice and Steel conditioning gel toners should be in every colourist’s colour room.” Barkworth also digs 90s cuts and colors inclu-ding frosted tips and center parts, but as for beards, he says, “Gents, it’s time to shave.”And here’s a shout-out to the elephant in the room: hair loss. If you aren’t yet ready to go cue-ball just yet and your hairline is retreating toward your occipital crest, man up and check out Eufora Thickening Promise with Aloe stem cells. Also, bear in mind: there is no such thing as a luxurious beanie or baseball cap (we don’t care if it’s Prada), frequently the last

Skill is requiredbalance to rough with smooth, raw with polished

No matter if you are

rock stubble or

unplucked brows,

keep your cut

super-sharp.

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The new sense of luxury

isn’t always necessarily

about retro. But it is

always about wearing

your hair like a grown-up.

refuge of those experiencing hair loss. Entrust your hair, whatever’s left of it, to a licensed professional. Ditto for your skin, nails, teeth and wardrobe. And if you must cover your head, do it with class, please. We’re fond of the Gucci black deer leather cap for a slightly S&M vibe.Insider intel about what women really want: we love men’s hands, love to hold them, love to be touched by them—especially when they are strong, supple and smell like warm vanilla-almond cookies. In addition to close-clipping nails, a tip is CND™ Rescue RX, a hydrating unisex deep-keratin treatment which brushes onto the nail and cuticle for a delicious drench of bakery-scented moisture.

Can’t touch this: only

the baddest dare to

gel-style to a

rock-hard dry-down.

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