learn textile0

The Training ParticipantsThe Training Participants

Compliance and Management Systems TeamCompliance and Management Systems Team

LEARN LEARN TEXTILETEXTILE

Base Knowledge for MerchandisersBase Knowledge for Merchandisersand Export Marketing Peoplesand Export Marketing Peoples

FIBRE AND YARNFIBRE AND YARN

(SPINNING)

Process Flow of CottonProcess Flow of Cotton

Ginning(Bales)

Spinning (Yarn)

Weaving(Greige Fabric)

Cotton From FieldsPrinting

(Printed Fabric)

Aged/Cured

Dyeing(Dyed Fabric)

Pretreatment(Bleached Fabric)

Packing/Folding

Finishing Wet & Dry(Finished Fabric)

Finishing Wet & Dry(Finished Fabric)

Stitching(Garments/Home Textile)

Packed Fabric

Exported(Customer/Consumer)

Pretreatment(Bleached Fabric)

Types of FibresTypes of Fibres

Natural FibresNatural FibresCottonCottonWoolWoolSilkSilkLinen and other Linen and other bastbastfibres e.g. Jute, Hempfibres e.g. Jute, Hemp

Synthetic FibresSynthetic FibresPolyesterPolyesterPolyamide (Nylon)Polyamide (Nylon)PolyPoly--Acrylic (Vinyl)Acrylic (Vinyl)

Regenerated FibresRegenerated FibresViscoseViscoseAcetate RayonAcetate RayonCupormoniumCupormonium RayonRayonLyocellLyocellSpandaxSpandaxLycraLycra

Fibre CharacteristicsFibre Characteristics

Staple LengthStaple LengthCotton fibre considered with regard to its length and Cotton fibre considered with regard to its length and fineness.fineness.Short Staple: Short Staple: Less than 25 mmLess than 25 mmMedium Staple:Medium Staple: 25 to 30 mm25 to 30 mmLong Staple:Long Staple: 30 to 37 mm30 to 37 mmExtra Long Staple:Extra Long Staple: 37 mm and above37 mm and above

MicronairMicronairThe size of individual cotton fibre taken in crossThe size of individual cotton fibre taken in cross--section.section.

Types of CottonTypes of Cotton

Upland Cotton:Upland Cotton:Originally used to refer to cotton grown on raised Originally used to refer to cotton grown on raised lands not prone to flooding. Now refers to short and lands not prone to flooding. Now refers to short and medium staple cottons having staple length between medium staple cottons having staple length between 25 to 30 mm.25 to 30 mm.

Pima Cotton:Pima Cotton:Long staple cotton variety having staple length Long staple cotton variety having staple length between 30 to 37 mm.between 30 to 37 mm.

Organic:Organic:Organically grown cotton uses crop rotation, Organically grown cotton uses crop rotation, beneficial insects, compost and other farming beneficial insects, compost and other farming methods in place of chemical fertilizers and intensive methods in place of chemical fertilizers and intensive farming techniques.farming techniques.

Types of CottonTypes of Cotton

DesiDesi Cotton:Cotton:Only refer to Pakistani short staple cotton having less Only refer to Pakistani short staple cotton having less than 25 mm staple length e.g. Punjab than 25 mm staple length e.g. Punjab DesiDesi and and SindSindDesiDesi..

G.BarbadenseG.Barbadense::Pima or extra long staple cotton having above 37 mm Pima or extra long staple cotton having above 37 mm staple length. Major producing countries are Egypt, staple length. Major producing countries are Egypt, the USA, Israel, Peru and the Central Asian states of the USA, Israel, Peru and the Central Asian states of the former Soviet Union the former Soviet Union

Punjab Upland TypePunjab Upland TypeVarietyVariety

Year ofYear ofReleaseRelease

G.O.TG.O.T(%)(%)

Staple LengthStaple LengthInches (mm)Inches (mm)

MicronaireMicronaireValueValue

StrengthStrength(000 (000 tppsttppst))

Period ofPeriod ofPickingPicking

BB--557557 19751975 35.935.9 11--1/321/32”” (26.2)(26.2) 4.54.5 92.992.9 OctOct--NovNov

MNHMNH--9393 19811981 36.536.5 11--1/81/8”” (28.6)(28.6) 4.74.7 94.094.0 NovNov--DecDec

NIABNIAB--7878 19831983 36.636.6 11--1/161/16”” (27.0)(27.0) 3.93.9 91.391.3 NovNov--DecDec

SLHSLH--4141 19841984 36.736.7 11--3/323/32““ (27.8)(27.8) 4.44.4 95.895.8 NovNov--DecDec

CIMCIM--7070 19861986 31.131.1 11--5/325/32““ (29.4)(29.4) 4.24.2 92.592.5 NovNov--DecDec

MNHMNH--129129 19861986 38.538.5 11--1/321/32““ (26.2)(26.2) 4.44.4 95.495.4 NovNov--DecDec

SS--1212 19881988 40.340.3 11--1/81/8““ (28.6)(28.6) 4.34.3 93.093.0 NovNov--DecDec

FHFH--8787 19881988 36.836.8 11--3/323/32““ (27.8)(27.8) 4.24.2 95.995.9 NovNov--DecDec

Punjab Upland TypePunjab Upland TypeVarietyVariety


G.O.TG.O.T(%)(%)





GoharGohar--8787 19901990 36.036.0 11--3/323/32““ (27.8)(27.8) 4.14.1 95.095.0 NovNov--DecDec

CIMCIM--109109 19901990 35.035.0 11--3/323/32““ (27.8)(27.8) 4.44.4 91.491.4 NovNov--DecDec

RHRH--11 19901990 33.433.4 11--3/163/16““ (30.2)(30.2) 3.93.9 103.7103.7 NovNov--DecDec

NIABNIAB--8686 19901990 34.534.5 11--5/325/32““ (29.4)(29.4) 4.34.3 95.095.0 NovNov--DecDec

CIM240CIM240 19921992 35.535.5 11--3/323/32““ (27.8)(27.8) 4.74.7 93.793.7 NovNov--DecDec

BHBH--3636 19921992 38.738.7 11--3/323/32““ (28.0)(28.0) 4.34.3 100.3100.3 NovNov--DecDec

FHFH--682682 19921992 37.037.0 11--1/81/8““ (28.5)(28.5) 4.34.3 95.795.7 OctOct--NovNov

MNHMNH--147147 19921992 4040 11--1/161/16““ (27.5)(27.5) 4.24.2 95.595.5 NovNov--DecDec

NHNH--2626 19921992 37.537.5 11--3/323/32““ (28.0)(28.0) 4.44.4 95.095.0 NovNov--DecDec

SindhSindh Upland TypeUpland TypeVarietyVariety


G.O.TG.O.T(%)(%)





MM--4 (N.T)4 (N.T) 19421942 33.033.0 15/1615/16““ (23.8)(23.8) 4.54.5 8585 SepSep

MM--100 (N.T)100 (N.T) 19631963 34.034.0 11--1/321/32““ (26.2)(26.2) 4.04.0 85.085.0 SepSep

HH--5959--1 1 ((QalandariQalandari)) 19741974 33.533.5 11--1/81/8““ (28.6)(28.6) 3.73.7 85.085.0 SepSep

SS--5959--1 1 ((SarmastSarmast)) 19751975 34.634.6 11--1/81/8““ (28.6)(28.6) 3.73.7 92.792.7 OctOct--NovNov

K68/9K68/9 19771977 35.035.0 11--3/163/16““ (30.2)(30.2) 4.44.4 96.196.1 OctOct--NovNov

THTH--1101 1101 ((RehmaniRehmani)) 19851985 35.135.1 11--1/321/32““ (26.2)(26.2) 4.34.3 90.090.0 OctOct--NovNov

GHGH--28/82 28/82 ((ShaheenShaheen)) 19881988 35.235.2 11--1/161/16““ (27.0)(27.0) 4.24.2 94.694.6 OctOct--NovNov

THTH--1174 1174 ((ReshmiReshmi)) 19911991 11--1/41/4”” (31.8)(31.8) 4.24.2 92.792.7 OctOct--NovNov

DesiDesiVarietyVariety


G.O.TG.O.T(%)(%)





PunjabPunjab

DD--99 19711971 38.038.0 5/85/8”” (15.8)(15.8) 7.57.5 8080 SepSep--OctOct

RaviRavi 19821982 41.041.0 5/85/8”” (15.8)(15.8) 8.08.0 -- SepSep--OctOct

RohiRohi 19861986 38.838.8 5/85/8”” (15.8)(15.8) 8.08.0 -- SepSep--OctOct

SindhSindh

TDTD--11 19631963 39.839.8 11/411/4”” (17.4)(17.4) 8.08.0 79.579.5 OctOct

SKDSKD--10/1910/19”” 19761976 40.240.2 5/85/8”” (15.8)(15.8) 10.210.2 -- SepSep--OctOct

GinningGinning

The mechanical process by which cotton The mechanical process by which cotton fibres are separated from their seeds fibres are separated from their seeds quickly and efficiently to make the fibres quickly and efficiently to make the fibres available for textile use.available for textile use.

SpinningSpinning

Conversion of fibre into yarn as per Conversion of fibre into yarn as per requiremtnsrequiremtns..Consist of a series of operations/ Consist of a series of operations/ processes, the resultant product of which processes, the resultant product of which is is ‘‘YarnYarn’’..

Types of SpinningTypes of Spinning

Cap Spinning Cap Spinning Flyer SpinningFlyer SpinningMule Spinning Mule Spinning Ring SpinningRing Spinning

A system of continuous spinning of staple fibre.A system of continuous spinning of staple fibre.Open End Spinning (Rotor Spinning)Open End Spinning (Rotor Spinning)

The production of spun yarn by a process in which The production of spun yarn by a process in which the sliver or roving is opened or separated into its the sliver or roving is opened or separated into its individual fibres or tufts and is subsequently individual fibres or tufts and is subsequently reassembled in the spinning element into yarn.reassembled in the spinning element into yarn.

Air Jet SpinningAir Jet Spinning

}Obsolete very rare in some of the old wool industries.Obsolete very rare in some of the old wool industries.

Yarn CountYarn Count

Yarn is categorized by its count or yarn Yarn is categorized by its count or yarn number which in simple term can be said number which in simple term can be said as the indicator of its thickness. So count as the indicator of its thickness. So count can be defined as;can be defined as;

Mass per unit length of yarn (Direct System)Mass per unit length of yarn (Direct System)Length per unit mass of yarn (Indirect System)Length per unit mass of yarn (Indirect System)

Types of CountTypes of Count

Cotton Count (ECC or Cotton Count (ECC or NeNe))Number of 840 yards Number of 840 yards strands (hanks) per one strands (hanks) per one pound of masspound of mass

Metric Yarn Number (Nm)Metric Yarn Number (Nm)Length of yarn in meters Length of yarn in meters per one gram of massper one gram of mass

Woolen Measure (Woolen Measure (NeSNeS))Number of 256 yards Number of 256 yards stands (hanks) per one stands (hanks) per one English pound of massEnglish pound of mass

Worsted (Worsted (NeKNeK))Number of 560 yards Number of 560 yards strands (hanks) per one strands (hanks) per one English pound of massEnglish pound of massLinen Count (Linen Count (NeLNeL or Lea)or Lea)

Number of 300 yards Number of 300 yards strands per one English strands per one English pound of masspound of mass

Types of CountTypes of Count

TexTexMass of yarn in grams per 1000 meters lengthMass of yarn in grams per 1000 meters length

Decimal FractionDecimal FractionMass of yarn in grams per 10,000 meters lengthMass of yarn in grams per 10,000 meters length

DecitexDecitex or or dtexdtex

DecitexDecitex is the count grading for filament and spinning yarns in is the count grading for filament and spinning yarns in manman--made fibre industrymade fibre industry

Decimal MultipleDecimal MultipleMass of yarn in Kilogram per 1000 meters lengthMass of yarn in Kilogram per 1000 meters length

tex101

m1000gm1

=

Count ConversionCount Conversion

If you know and understand the definition If you know and understand the definition of the relevant counts then it is very easy of the relevant counts then it is very easy to find out the conversion factor. Most to find out the conversion factor. Most commonly conversion comes in;commonly conversion comes in;

NeNe to Nm (Number English to Number Metric)to Nm (Number English to Number Metric)Nm to Nm to NeNe (Number Metric to Number English)(Number Metric to Number English)

Conversion ExampleConversion Example

Convert Convert NeNe to Nm to Nm NeNe is defined as:is defined as:Number of 840 yards strands in one English poundNumber of 840 yards strands in one English poundTherefore, Therefore, NeNe= 840 yards/1 lbs= 840 yards/1 lbsoror NeNe = (840 x 0.9144) = (840 x 0.9144) mtrmtr/ 1 x 454 gm/ 1 x 454 gmor or NeNe = 768.096 mtr/454 gm= 768.096 mtr/454 gmor or NeNe = 1.692 = 1.692 mtrmtr/ 1 gm/ 1 gm

Now Nm is defined asNow Nm is defined asLength of yarn in meters per one gram of massLength of yarn in meters per one gram of massSo So NeNe =1.692 Nm=1.692 Nmand Nm = 1/1.692 and Nm = 1/1.692 NeNe or or Nm = 0.591 Nm = 0.591 NeNe

ExerciseExercise

Convert 40Convert 40’’S cotton to NmS cotton to NmCotton Count (Cotton Count (NeNe) = 40) = 40’’SSNeNe = 1.692 Nm= 1.692 Nm40 40 NeNe = 40 x1.692 Nm= 40 x1.692 Nm40 40 NeNe = 67.68 Nm or 68 Nm= 67.68 Nm or 68 NmConvert 40 Nm to Cotton count (Convert 40 Nm to Cotton count (NeNe))Nm = 0.591 Nm = 0.591 NeNe40 Nm = 40 x 0.591 40 Nm = 40 x 0.591 NeNe40 Nm = 23.64 40 Nm = 23.64 NeNe or 24 or 24 NeNe

Conversion FormulasConversion Formulas

TexTex DecitexDecitex((dtexdtex))

DenierDenier(den)(den)

Metric No. Metric No. (Nm)(Nm)

English English Cotton Cotton

No. (No. (NeNe))

TexTex -- 10 x 10 x textex 9 x 9 x textex 1000/tex1000/tex 591/tex591/tex

DecitexDecitexdTexdTex dtex/10dtex/10 -- 0.9 x 0.9 x dtexdtex 10000/dtex10000/dtex 5910/dtex5910/dtex

Denier Denier (den)(den) den/9den/9 den/0.9den/0.9 -- 9000/den9000/den 5314/den5314/den

Metric No. Metric No. (Nm)(Nm) 1000/Nm1000/Nm 10000/Nm10000/Nm 9000/Nm9000/Nm -- 0.591 x Nm0.591 x Nm

English English Cotton No. Cotton No. ((NeNe))

591/Ne591/Ne 5910/Ne5910/Ne 5314/Ne5314/Ne 1.692 x 1.692 x NeNe --

Convert

Into

Types of YarnTypes of Yarn

SingleSingle: Single Strand also called singly ply yarn: Single Strand also called singly ply yarnDoubleDouble: Two strands twisted together also called 2 ply : Two strands twisted together also called 2 ply yarnyarnMultiMulti--PlyPly: More than two stands twisted together: More than two stands twisted togetherTexturedTextured: Polyester or Nylon yarn where the effect is : Polyester or Nylon yarn where the effect is produced by pin, disc or beltproduced by pin, disc or beltCompactCompact: Yarn produced by the use of compactors : Yarn produced by the use of compactors during spinning operationduring spinning operationFilamentFilament: Normally used in the binding of selvedge : Normally used in the binding of selvedge during weaving. This is a single strand directly coming during weaving. This is a single strand directly coming from the spinnerets attenuated to the required countfrom the spinnerets attenuated to the required count

Yarn CharacteristicsYarn Characteristics

PrimaryPrimary1.1. CountCount2.2. Blend (if comprises of Blend (if comprises of

more then one fibre)more then one fibre)3.3. Twist (No. and Direction Twist (No. and Direction

i.e. Z or S)i.e. Z or S)4.4. Strength and ElongationStrength and Elongation5.5. CSP (Count Strength CSP (Count Strength

Product)Product)6.6. PlyPly

SecondarySecondary1.1. EvennessEvenness2.2. HairinessHairiness3.3. Carded or CombedCarded or Combed4.4. CompactnessCompactness

Yarn FaultsYarn Faults

NepsNeps (A small knot of tangled fibre )(A small knot of tangled fibre )SlubsSlubs (Thick(Thick--Thin Places)Thin Places)UnevennessUnevenness (Yarn irregularities and non (Yarn irregularities and non uniformity)uniformity)ContaminationContamination (Foreign matter e.g. jute, twine, (Foreign matter e.g. jute, twine, polypropylene etc.)polypropylene etc.)KittiesKitties (Vegetable matter or dust (Vegetable matter or dust contaminations)contaminations)White SpecsWhite Specs (Immature fibres)(Immature fibres)Lower ElongationLower Elongation (Less elasticity or rigid fibre)(Less elasticity or rigid fibre)

Yarn FaultsYarn Faults

KnotsKnots (Abnormal due to excessive breakage (Abnormal due to excessive breakage caused by yarn irregularities)caused by yarn irregularities)KinksKinks (Due to dead or immature cotton or (Due to dead or immature cotton or irregular twist)irregular twist)BarreBarre (Due to improper mixing and immature (Due to improper mixing and immature fibres)fibres)HairinessHairiness (is a measure of amount of fibres (is a measure of amount of fibres protruding from the structure of the yarn)protruding from the structure of the yarn)FlyFly (Foreign matters which come from other (Foreign matters which come from other machines by flying/air)machines by flying/air)

WEAVING

Weaving

• Process of making cloth by interlacing yarns at right angles according to a prescribed pattern i.e. weave type/design

Essentials of Weaving

• Yarn (to be used as warp and weft)• Preparatory arrangement• Loom• Design or Weave Pattern• Operator/trained labour

Weaving Operation

Sizing

Drawing In

Gaiting On Loom

Warping

Loom Operation

Loom Operation

Folding

Inspection and Mending

Can be ExportedDirectly

Departure toProcessing

Bale Making

Warp & Weft

• Warp:Threads which run parallel to the loom. Also called Ends (collectively called warp and individually called ends)

• Weft:Threads which run at right angles to the warp. Also called picks or filling (collectively called weft and individually called picks/filling).

Cover Factor

• It is the relative closeness of warp and weft. It indicates the compactness of the fabric.

• MathematicallyCover Factor: K = for indirect counting system

K = for direct counting systemCloth Cover Factor = Cover Factor of Warp + Cover Factor of Weft

K = K1 + K2For any Cotton Count

K = +

Where n1 and n2 are ends/inch and picks/inch and N1 and N2 are count of warp and weft respectively.

Nn

Nn

1

1

Nn

2

2

Nn

Cover Factor Example

• Find the Cover Factor (K) of fabric with details as 76x68 – 30’S x 30’SNow Ends/inch = n1 = 76 Count of Warp = N1= 30’S

Picks/inch = n2 = 68 Count of Weft = N2 = 30’S

K = + = + = 13.87 + 12.41K = 26.28

1

1

Nn

2

2

Nn

3076

3068

Weight of Fabric

• This is the weight of warp and weft in a fabric.

• Usually mentioned as– In grams : gms/square meters (GSM)– In ozs : ozs/square yards

• Sometime weight in gms or ozs per running meter or yard is also used during fabric weight calculation.

Derivation of Weight of Fabric

Construction n1 x n2/c1 x c2Where n1 = Ends/inch n2 = Picks/inchand c1 = ECC of Warp c2 = ECC of Weft

Let the Weight of Warp = W1

In a yardTotal length of warp = n1 x 36 yardsFrom the definition of count we know that

Count x 840 yards = 1 lbHence c1 x 840 yards = 1 lb

Therefore, weight of n1 x 36 yards = (n1 x 36)/(c1 x 840) lbsor W1 = n1/c1 x 0.0428 lbsSimilarly Weight of Weft = W2 = n2 /c2 x 0.0428 lbs

Derivation of Weight of Fabric

Weight of Fabric: W = W1 + W2W = (n1/c1 x 0.0428 + n2 /c2 x 0.0428) lbs/yd2

or W = 0.0428 (n1/c1 + n2/c2) lbs/yd2

or W = 0.0428 x 16 (n1/c1 + n2/c2) oz/yd2

or W = 0.686 (n1/c1 + n2/c2) oz/yd2

as 1 oz/yd2= 33.9 gm/m2

so W = 0.686 x 33.9 (n1/c1 + n2/c2) gm/m2

or W = 23.25 (n1/c1 + n2/c2) gm/m2 (also know as GSM)Also Weight/Running length = W x width(unit of measurements must be the same i.e. mtr or yard)

Crimp

• It is the waviness in the warp and weft.

• When yarn is takenout/separated from the fabricand stretched to remove waviness then

• Actual Yarn Length = L + l• %age Crimp = l/L x 100• Therefore, during yarn ( warp & weft) calculations for

weaving always keep in mind %age crimp• The value of which depends upon the degree of

interlacement i.e. design/weave.

Width of Fabric

L

Width of Fabric

Ll

Greige Fabric Width & Length Calculation

• Greige Fabric depends upon;– Crimp– Take up %age (The shortage of length or width due to crimp)– Shrinkage in weft during processing

• There are two point of views– Marketing Point of View

• Width = Required Width + Shrinkage• Length = Required Length + Shrinkage

– Weaving Point of View• Width = Required Width + Take Up %age• Length = Required Length + Take Up %age

Selvedges or Selvedge

• The woven edge portion of a fabric parallel to he warp or the longitudinal edges of fabric that are formed during weaving– It is on both sides of the fabric– Width may be from 1 to 2 cm– Usually dense and differ from the body of the fabric in

construction or weave or both– Firm selvedge does not fray during processing e.g. stentering

• Normally two types;Tuckin Leno

Other Definitions

• Dobby:It is a mechanical device to control the lifting of Heald shafts as per weave/design/pattern/repeat.

• Temple:These are the attachments on a loom to keep the selvedges in the stretched position as per requirements.

• Reed:It is a comb like wired frame through which warp yarns pass. Each partition is a ‘dent’. It separates the warp yarn and is used during weaving to beat up the weft yarn into the cloth after each passage of weft yarn across the loom.

Other Definitions

• Beam:These are the solid (metallic) circular devices as per diagram to roll yarn or fabric on them for weaving purpose.

• Gait-Up/Gaiting:This is to prepare the loom for production when the beam with yarn, shafts and read is placed on it.

Other Definitions

• Heald– Healds or Heald shafts

ar the wire frames witheyelets in the centrethrough which warp threads are passed as per design/weave

pattern. These shafts are lifted up and down by some mechanical or electro-mechanical device giving way to the passage of weft. These devices are;

• Tappets• Cams• Dobbies• Jacquard

This whole depends upon the fabric structure i.e. design.

Other Definition

• Shed:This is the passage through which picks insertion takes place. This is made due to up and down motions of heald shafts/Frames.

• Picking Device:These are the devices, by the use of which picks are inserted during weaving e.g. shuttle, rapier (gripper), projectile, air or water.

Broad Classification of Looms

• Plain• Dobby• Jacquard

These are related with the warp lifting devices during weaving

Types of Looms

• Conventional Power Loom– It is a very simple loom where single shuttle moves to insert the

pick– Only plain fabrics are woven– Speed is very low i.e. less production– Quality of fabrics is poor– Bobbin changing is manual

• Auto loom– Better than a conventional power loom– More than one colour picks can be inserted– Picking is through shuttles– Bobbin changing is automatic– Dobbies can be installed to get fashion fabrics

Types of Looms

• Shuttle less Loom– In these looms shuttles are not being used and

bigger packages e.g. cones are used– Speeds are very high– Production is high– Quality of fabrics is Good– According to picking system there are four

types of shuttle less loom

Types of Shuttle Less Looms

• Rapier– Pick insertion through grippers– Versatile loom for any design, count, material and construction– Specially suitable for fashion fabrics– Smaller length can also be woven– Superior quality weaving then other shuttle less loom

• Projectile– Pick insertion through projectiles using projectile motion– More production than Rapier– Specially suitable for heavy fabrics like canvas, duck, drill, denim

etc.

Types of Shuttle Less Looms

• Air Jet– Pick insertion through air jet system– More production as compared to Rapier and Projectile– Fabric quality is good– Most appropriate for plain mass production– Suitable for long set length as these are very high speed looms

• Water Jet– Pick insertion through water jet system– Most suitable for synthetic fabrics and unsuitable for cotton fabrics

• Multiphase Weaving System– In the introduction phase yet

Different Looms Comparison

Loom Type Weft Insertion Rate (Yds/min)

Average Width Picks/min Fabric/min

Conventional Power Loom 220 100” 80 1”

Automatic Loom 330-440 100” 118-160 1.48”-2”

Rapier 1000-1400 100” 350-500 4.4”-6.25”

Projectile 1300-1600 100” 450-600 5.6”-7.5”

Air Jet or Water Jet 1600-2200 100” 550-800 7”-10”

Weave

• The process of forming a fabric on a loom by interlacing the warp and weft threads with each other. The weaves vary depending on the interlacing pattern used in a woven fabric. The fundamental weaves are Plain weave, Twill weave and Satin weave. All other weaves, no matter how intricate, use one of these basic weave in their composition.

Plain Weaves

• Most simple and most common type of construction• Inexpensive to produce, durable• Flat, tight surface is conducive to printing and other

finishes• Method of Construction:

– Each filling yarn goes alternately under and over the warp yarns• Common Fabrics:

– Cotton calicos, cheesecloth, gingham, percale, voile• Household Uses:

– Draperies, tablecloths, upholstery

Basket Weave

• A variation of the plain weave• Usually basket or checkerboard pattern• Contrasting colors are often used• Inexpensive, less durable than plain weave• Method of Construction:

– Two or more warps simultaneously interlaced with one or more fillings

• Common Fabrics:– Monks cloth, oxford

• Household Uses:– Wall hangings, pillows

Twill Weave

• Creates a diagonal, chevron, houndstooth, corkscrew, or other design

• The design is enhanced with colored yarn• Is strong and may develop a shine• Method of Construction:

– Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or more counterpart yarns in progressive steps right or left

• Common Fabrics:– Denim, gabardine, serge, tweed

• Household Uses:– Upholstery, comforters, pillows

Satin Weave

• Smooth, soft luster• Excellent drapability• Floats snag easily• Method of Construction:

– Floats one warp yarn over four or more weft yarns, then tied down with one thread, resulting in a smooth face

• Common Fabrics:– Satin, satin-weave fabrics out of fabrics such as cotton.

• Household Uses:– Draperies, quilts

Jacquard Weave

• Yarns woven into unlimited designs, often intricate, multicolor effect• Expensive, but the design doesn’t fade or wear out• Durability depends on the fiber used• The Jacquard loom was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard• Method of Construction:

– Warp is individually controlled with each pick passage creating intricate designs

• Common Fabrics:– Brocade, damask, tapestry

• Household Uses:– Upholstery, wall hangings

Leno Weave

• A mesh-like fabric• Method of Construction:

– A pair of warp threads are passed over and under the filling yarns in a figure 8 or an hourglass twist, creating a geometric pattern

• Common Fabrics:• Household Uses:

– Thermal Blankets, curtains

Knit Weave

• Soft, stretchy• Method of Construction:

– Interlooping yarns– In weft knitting, loops are formed

by hand or machine as yarn is added in crosswise direction.– In warp knitting, loops are formed vertically by machine, one row

at a time• Common Fabrics:

– Raschel warp knits• Household Uses:

– Not used extensively in design with the exception of raschel warp knits which are used in making curtains and draperies

Uncut pile Weave

• Loops are possible on both sides of fabric• Soft and absorbent, relatively inexpensive• Can snag if loops are caught• Method of Construction:

– Generally a plain or twill weave with a third dimension--additional warp yarn or filling yarn is introduced into the basic structure and forms a loop at regular intervals

• Common Fabrics:– Frieze, terry cloth

• Household Uses:– Upholstery, towels, carpet, area rugs

Cut Pile Weave

• Soft and warm• Resilient, absorbent• May have a nap that must be matched• May be expensive and need professional cleaning• Method of Construction:

– Similar to uncut pile, but loops have been cut• Common Fabrics:

– Corduroy, velvet, velveteen• Household uses:

– Upholstery, stage draperies

Fabrics and Weave

• Diaper Cloth is a twill, dobby or plain woven absorbent cotton.

• Dimity is sheer, thin, white or printed fabric with lengthwise cords, stripes or checks.

• Drill is a strong twilled cotton fabric, used in men’s and women’s slacks.

• Duck is a heavy, durable tightly woven fabric. Heavy weight drill is used in awnings, tents, etc. Lighter duck is used in summer clothing.

Fabrics and Weave

• Flannel cotton is plain or twill weave with a slight nap on one or both sides.

• Flannelette is a soft cotton fabric with a nap on one side.• Gauze is a sheer, lightly woven fabric similar to

cheesecloth. Is also made in silk.• Gingham is a lightweight, washable, stout fabric that is

woven in checks, plaids or stripes.• Lawn is a plain weave, soft, very light, combed cotton

fabric with a crisp finish.• Whipcord is a strong fabric with a diagonal round cords

that can also be produced in wool.

Fabrics and Weave

• Muslin is a sheer to coarse plain woven cotton fabric. Muslin comes in "natural" color or is dyed. Organdy is a very thin, transparent cotton with a crisp finish.

• Outing flannel is a soft, twill or plain weave fabric napped on both sides. Used for baby clothes, diapers, and sleepwear.

• Oxford is shirting fabric with a lustrous, soft finish. It is characterized with narrow stripes and can be woven in plain or basket weave. Also a term used for wool fabric that has black and white fibers.

• Percale is a light weight, closely woven, sturdy fabric that can be found printed in dark colors.

Fabrics and Weave

• Poplin is a plain weave fabric with a cross-wise rib. Sailclothis a very strong, heavy canvas or duck made in plain weave.

• Sateen is a satin weave cotton fabric.• Seersucker is a lightweight cotton fabric crinkled into

lengthwise stripes.• Swiss is a sheer, very fine cotton that can be plain or

decorated with dots or other designs.• Terry Cloth is a looped pile fabric that is either woven or

knitted. Very absorbent and used for towels, etc. French terry cloth is looped on one side and sheared pile on the other.

• Velveteen is an all cotton pile fabric with short pile resembling velvet.

Common Weaving Faults

• Broken End• Coarse/Thick End• Double End• End Out• End Missing• Fine End• Loose End• Broken Pick• Coarse Filling• Double Pick• Loose Weft• Miss Pick• Oily Weft• Read Mark• Wrong Draw• Crack• Starting Mark/Setting/Set Mark

• Filling Slub• Float• Smash• Shuttle Top• Shuttle Cut• Weft Bar• Count Variation• Wrong Mending• Abrasion• Bad Selvedge• Tailed Weaver /Beamer Knot• Blow-Off Waste• Contamination• Draw Back• Oily Stain• Hole, Cut or Tear

Broken End

Coarse/Thick End

Double End

End Out

End Missing

Fine End

Loose End

Broken Pick

Coarse Filling

Double Pick

Loose Weft

Miss Pick

Oily Weft

Reed Mark

Wrong Draw

Starting Mark

Setting

Filling Slub

Shuttle Top

Shuttle Cut

Weft Bar

Count Variation

Wrong Mending

Abrasion

Bad Selvedge

Tailed Weaver/Beamer Knot

Blow-Off Waste

Contamination

Draw Back

Oily Stain

PRETREATMENT

Impurities in Greige Fabric

Two types of impurities are found in cottonPrimary impurities or Natural Inherited Impurities.These are the part of cotton fibre and occurs naturally

Pectic Substance 2-3 %

Cotton Wax, Cottond Seed Oil

0.3 %

Protein 3-4 %

Ash Pigment 0.01-0.03 %

Starch 4-6 %

PVA 3-5 %

Acrylic Size 0.5-1.0 %

Wax 0.2-0.5 %

After Wax 0.5 %

Secondary ImpuritiesThese are the impurities added during weaving process in sizing.

Pretreatment

Removal of primary or secondary impurities prior to Dyeing, Printing and Finishing is essential to get the desired results. It consist of a series of processes which are termed as pretreatment processes and itself as pretreatment.

Pretreatment Processes

Singeing

Desizing

Scouring

Bleaching

Mercerizing

SingeingSmoothing surface of fabric by burning and removing fuzz, protruding endsVisualizes fabric textureBurning is achieved by passing the fabric over the flame of the gas burnersSpeed varies from 60~120 mtr/minFabric temperature is set from 120~240oC depending upon the weight of the fabric to be singedNormally both sides are singed, however single side can be arranged.Processing repeat is normally 1F x 1B (one face x one back)

Desizing

The purpose of a desizing process is to remove sizes that have been attached warp yarns in sizing operation in weaving preparatory operation. Starch (maize, rice, cornstarch, flour etc.) are used as sizes.

Why Sizing is being done?

To increase strength of the warp yarn to avoid excessive breakage during weavingProvide warp yarn with flexibilityPVA also act as a sizing agent and as an adhesiveAcrylic size used to provide additional adhesive propertyWax reduces electrostatic charges and make the fabric more hygroscopic

Desizing How?Singed fabric is passed through a mangle having enzymatic desizing agent (e.g. Bactasol MTN 3-5 gm/l at 60-65oC) dissolved in it. The fabric is then batched on a roller having rotating device. The batched fabric is kept on rotating for 6~16 hours depending upon the weight of the fabric.Enzymatic desizer degrades the starch particles and make them water soluble. There are washed out in the next process i.e. scouring.If rapid desizing is required then oxidative desizer e.g. Leonil EBP 2-4 gm/l ate boil.Singing and desizing is done in one step.Singing is optional but desizing is essential.

Scouring

This is the process of removing the following impurities from the desized fabric• Pectic Substances• Oils, Fates and Waxes• Degraded Starch Particles• Dirt, Dust, Vegetable Matters• Other preparations added during sizing in weaving

e.g. PVA, Acrylic Size etc.

What is Scouring?It is an alkali (caustic soda) treatment rather a strong alkali treatment at higher temperature for a specific time to remove the impurities from the fabric and to make it ready for bleaching and subsequently for dyeing, printing and finishing as the case may be.NaOH = 40~70 gm/ltrDetergent = 2 gm/ltrSequesting Agent = 2 gm/ltr (can be added in desizing bath also)Washing Temperature = 90~60oCTreatment Time = 15~30 minutes in steamerWhole operation is automatic. The above mentioned details are for continuous scouring on plant.Two types of machines are used for scouring• Kier (rope form)• Bleaching Plant (open width continuous)

Kier

Kier process is suitable for light weight and cheaper qualities and where tensionless treatment is required. Kiers are vessels where desized fabric is piled and treated with scouring solution for 6~12 hours at boil. Scouring solution consist of caustic soda, sodium carbonate, detergent, sodium silicate and chelating agent.

Kier

Sequence of Operation• Singing• Desizing• Washing• Scouring• Washing• Bleaching• Washing• Souring (Acid treatment for neutralization of fabric)• Washing

Scouring on Plant

This is continuous operation and consist of following activitiesDesized Fabric Batcher or Grey Fabric

Washing in the primary washing rangeChemical Padding

Steaming in the SteamerWashing in secondary washing range

Drying on DryerDried fabric batched on batcher or piled on trolley

Bleaching PlantsIn Chenab Limited we have three continuous bleaching plants• Goller Bleaching Plant (Width: 78”)• Babcock Bleaching Plant (Width: 2.8 m)• Kuster Bleaching Plant (Width: 3.2 m)

Scouring is essential for all the fabric meant for• Dyeing• Printing• Finishing (as whites are directly given to finishing)

Bleaching

This is the process of making the fabric white. After this the fabric is ready for dyeing, printing and finishing as the case may be.Types of Bleaching• Reduction or Chlorine or Chlorite

Bleaching• Oxidative or Peroxide Bleaching

Reduction or Chlorine or Chlorite Bleaching

In this type of bleaching powder dissolved in water or bleach liquor is used. Chlorine generated as result of chemical reaction performs the function of bleaching the fabric. Sodium Chlorite or Sodium Hypochlorite are used as bleaching agent. In Chenab Limited Sodium Hypochlorite is used for this purpose. The composition of which is as below;

Free NaOH (Caustic Soda)0.8~1.2 % (W/V)Available Chlorine 19~20 % (W/V)

this type of bleaching is carried out to Kier Scoured fabric. Chlorine bleaching is not permanent as the yellowing occurs with the passage of time due to oxidation in air. Moreover this is not environment friendly and causes water pollution and harmful for human being, land and aquatic animals. Today's trend is toward Peroxide Bleaching.

Oxidative or Peroxide Bleaching

This is the most common bleaching method. Not only associated with permanent whiteness but also friendly for environment as H2O2 is degradable into water and oxygen. Best bleaching whiteness is obtained at pH 11 adjusted using Caustic Soda

H2O2 H2O + OIn peroxide bleaching the fabric or water must be free of metal ions as these cause abnormal degradation of H2O2 and due to this pin holes appears in the fabric. Sequesting agent is used for this purpose and stabilizer for a controlled bleaching process.

Bleaching Processes

Continuous (Plant Bleaching)Semi Continuous (J-Box Bleaching)Non Continuous ( Kier Bleaching)

Continuous or Plant Bleaching

Carried out on plantThe process is continuousHighly productiveDosing of chemicals is automaticParameters i.e. speed, temperature, pressure, pick up, pH and time of treatment are automatically controlledConsistent results are achievedDegree of whiteness can be adjusted

Sequence of Operation

Washing(Primary Washer)

Padding withChemical

Steaming(Steamer)

Washing(Secondary Washer)

pH Adjustment(Caustic Washer)

Drying(Dryer)

Material comeson the Batcher

Scoured Fabric

Scope of Bleaching Plant

ScouringBleachingSolomatic Process (Half Bleaching)Only WashingAll the above processes can be carried out on the Bleaching Plant.

Solomatic Bleaching Process

This is just like bleaching process (already discussed). However quantities of the chemicals and treatment time is increased. This is a one step process where scouring and bleaching is carried out simultaneously.

Mercerization

In 1844 John Mercer invented a process of treatment of cotton with caustic soda (NaOH) which improved the behaviour of cotton fabrics during subsequent process. The process was named mercerization derived from Mercer.There are two types of Mercerization• Cold Mercerization• Hot Mercerization

Changes in Fabric Properties due to Mercerization

Stable dimensionIncrease in lusterImprovement in dyeing propertyIncreased tensile strengthCotton fibre swells when passed through the caustic soda solution as evident from the changes in a cross-section of a cotton fibre during a mercerization treatment

1.0 1.3 0.8

Removal ofAlkali by water

substitution

1 2 3 4 5 6 7Swelling process inan alkaline solution

Afterdrying

Comparison of MercerizationParameter/Property Cold Hot

Impregnation Wet on Dry Wet on Wet

Swelling Normal and on the fabric surface only

Faster and more evenly into the yarn core. So swell

occur throughout the body of the fabric

Widthwise stretching on the machine

No Yes

Lustre Good Better

Dimensional stability Good Better

Shade Brighter More Brighter

Dye Affinity Increased More Increased

Comparison of MercerizationParameter/Property Cold Hot

Devilling Time100 gm-300gm/m2 wt

45-50 Sec. 25-30 Sec.

Temperature 15-25oC 25-30oC

NaOH Solution Concentration (Lye Concentration)

25-32oBe 25-32oBe

Suitability for Heavy Weight Fabric (above 300 gm/m2)

Unsuitable Suitable

Lye Consumption More Less

Production for same fabric Less Almost double

Conclusion: Hot mercerizing is preferred over Cold Mercerizing

Fabric Must Have• Even Absorbency• No starch and other impurities• No residual chlorine• Neutral pH i.e. between 7.5~8.5• Same whiteness throughout

i.e. side-center-side

Pretreatment Requirements

Bleaching FaultsWhiteness Variation (side-center-side)Wrinkles and CreasesVariation in Absorbency and Pick up (side-center-side)Higher Tagwa rating (starch presence) will affect dye uptakeCutsPatchesImproper Washing (Chemical are not removed giving way to variation in dyeing/printing)

DyeingDyeingDyeing

Dyeing

Colouring the fabric has a history which date backs to 5000 BC. At that time dyeing was done with naturally occurring materials. Now it has been completely replaced by synthetic colours.

Primary Colours

Also termed as pure colours or huesDo not have any white, gray or black to distort their clarity and vibrancy.All the colours can be made from these primary colours.These are also called as dyer primary.

RED Yellow BLUE

Secondary Colours

These are obtained by mixing two primary colours in amount as per requirementsRed + Yellow = OrangeRed + Blue = PurpleYellow + Blue = Green

Tertiary Colours

Any colour obtained as a result of combining/mixing the three primary colours is called a tertiary colour.Red + Yellow + Blue New Colour

(Tertiary Colour)A lot of colours can be obtained by various combinations

Various Types of DyesAcidAcid-dyeing premetalizedBasicChromeDirectDispersePigmentNaphtholNeutral-dyeing premetalizedReactiveSulpherVat

Dyeability of FibresClass of Dyes

Fibre Type

Acid

Acid-dyeing

premetalized

Basic

Crom

e

Direct

Disperse

Pigm

ent

Naph

thol

Neu

tral-dyeing prem

etalized

Reactive

Sulpher

VA

t

Acetate X X X X

Acrylic (16) X X X

Acrylic (N) X X X X X X X X

Cotton X X X X X X X

Cuprammonium X X X X X X X

Flex X X X X X X X

Jute X X X X X X X

Polyamide X X X X X X X

Polyester X X

Silk X X X X X X

Vinyle Fibre X X X

Viscose X X X X X X X

Wool X X X X X X X

Reactive DyesThese react chemically with cellulose or protein molecules and form a covalent bond.These become an actual part of the cellulose fibre moleculesTheir overall fastness properties are goodTheir fastness to chlorine bleach/chlorine is poor generally (the only drawback)These are classified as Cold or Hot dyes from exhaust dyeing method point of view but applied at normal temperature in continuous dyeing methodsExamples are Procion, Dramarine, Levafix, Cibacrone, Ramazol etc.

Vat Dyes

Water insoluble dyes usually containing KetogroupsApplied to the fibre from an alkaline aqueous solution –Reduced Leuco formLeuco solution is oxidized in the fiber to the insoluble formHave high fastness to both washing and sunlightExample is Cibanone.

Disperse Dyes

Non IonicWater InsolubleApplied as a finally divided dispersionSuitable for polyester, polyamide, acrylic and elostomaric fibres.Examples are Teracil and Foron

Selection of Dyes

It depends uponCustomer’s specifications/requirementsEnd use of the fabric

RequirementsColourfastness to washingColourfastness to waterColourfastness to hypochlorite bleachColourfastness to Chlorinated Swimming Pond waterColourfastness to Dry cleaningColourfastness to PerspirationColourfastness to LightColourfastness to Home LaunderingColourfastness to RubbingColourfastness to Sea Water

Other Specific RequirementsConformance with certain regulation i.e. EU not allowed to use

Pentachlorophenol (PCP)LindaneTin Organic CompoundsHeavy Metals (Arsenic, Cadmium, Lead, Mercury, Cupper, Nickel)Azodyes capable of releasing carcinogenic arylaminesNonylphenol exthoxylates (NPEO’s)And others

Dyeing Methods

Method Nature Machines

Exhaust Batchwise ornon continuous

Jets, Jiggers, Winches, Soft Flow, Yarn/Package Dyeing M/C

Pad-Dry Continuous Thermosole (Less time required

Pad-Batch Semi Continuous

Thermosole or Pad Steam (More time reqired longer storage)

Pad-Steam Continuous Pad Steam dyeing range

Cotton Fabric with Reactive Dyestuff

Pad

Dry(100-120oC)

Cure(150-160oC)(1-3 minutes)

Washing

Drying

Ready forFinishing

Pad-Dry-Cure


Pad

Dry(100-130oC)

Pad Washing

Drying

Ready forFinishing

Pad-Dry-Pad-Steam

Steam(102oC)

(60-90 Sec.)

Thermosole

Pad Steam


Pad

Batch

Rotation(16-24 hours)

Washing

Drying

Ready forFinishing

Pad-Batch

Cotton Fabric with Vat Dyestuff

Pad-Dry-Pad (Developing)-Steam-Oxidation

Pad

Dry(100-130oC)

Pad(Developing)

Washing

Drying

Ready forFinishing

Steam(102oC)

(60-90 Sec.)

Thermosole

Pad Steam

Oxidation(H2O2)

Cotton Fabric with Pigment Dyestuff

Pad

Dry(100-130oC)

Cure(160-170oC)

(1-3 minutes)

Ready forFinishing

Pad-Dry-Cure

Jigger Process

Loading

Washing

DyeAddition

(in Two Ends)

Dye Addition

(if required)

Washing

Unloading& Drying

SaltAddition(in Two Ends)

Shade Matching

(in different Ends)

AlkaliAddition

(in Two Ends)

PC or Polyester/Cotton Blends

One Bath Method is used for pastel and medium shadesTwo Bath Method is used for medium and dark shadesDisperse Dyestuff is used for Polyester portionReactive Dyestuff is used for Cotton portion

One Bath Method

Pad(Disperse + Reactive)

Dry(100-130oC)

Cure(at 180-200oC for 1-3 minutes)

Ready for Finishing

Pad-Dry-Cure

Two Bath Method

Pad(Reactive Dye Solution)

Dry(at 100-130oC)

Cure(at 150-160oC)

Ready forFinishing

Dry

Steaming(at 102oC

for 60-90 Sec.)

Reduction& Cleaning(Caustic Soda +Hydrosulphite)

Pad(Disperse Dye Solution)

Dry(at 100-130oC)

Cure(at 190-200oC)

Pad Steam ThermosoleThermosole

Dyeing FaultsColour SpotsPatchy or Streaky uneven dyeingShading and ListingShade Variation (Side-Centre-Side)White SpotsWrinkles and CreasesPoor Fastness to washingSelvedge StampingStitch Marks

PRINTING

Printing

It is the process for applying colorants or other materials to the surface of a substrate usually in specific localised areas to produced a design.In fabric printing it is the operation by virtue of which patterns/designs are made on the fabric.

Essential of Printing

Design or PatternDesign transfer medium (Rollers, Screens)Printing PastePrinting MachineFabric to be Printed

Print Paste

It is the mixture of colouring maters, solvents, binders, thickening agents etc. which are used in printing to achieve the required impressions

Ingredients of Printing Paste

PigmentColorantsThickening AgentBinderFixer (where required)Liquor AmmoniaPreserving AgentEmulsifying Agent

ReactiveColorantsSodium BicarbonateSodium AlginateUreaColgon S (Sodium Hexametaphosphate)Reserver Salt-S

Prerequisites of Fabric PrintingFabric batched to the required widthNeutral pHSuitable absorbencyEven whiteness and penetration (i.e. side-centre-side)

Final recipe with passed i.e. approved sampleAll required colours and chemicalsEffective Blanket washing system with ample waterTrained operatorsReady for printing design screens

Printing Process Flow

Exposingof

Screens

Preparationof

Print Paste

ScreenPlacement

on M/CBulk

Printing

Drying

Ageing(Reactive)

Feeding ofBatchedFabric

SamplePrinting

Curing(Pigment)

Ready forFinishing

Washing

Drying

Printing Styles

Direct PrintingDischarge PrintingResist PrintingFlock PrintingBatik Printing

Direct Printing

Printing method in which colours and colouring matters (printing paste & Colours) are printed directly onto the fabric examples are

Stencil PrintingPrinting on rotary or flatbed printing M/CsRoller Printing

Discharge PrintingAlso called Extract PrintingPrinted on a pre-dyed fabric (medium to dark shades)Printed by print paste added with a colour destroying agent such as chlorine or hydrosulphiteColour discharges are also possible by adding such colours/dyestuffs in the paste which are not affected by discharging agent.The final product is of soft feel and bright in colours

Resist Printing

In this type of printingA design is printed on a white or dyed fabric with chemical or wax that resist penetration of dyeWhen the fabric is dyed/printed, the colour is absorbed only where there is no resist chemical appliedThen the resist is removed

Flock PrintingPrinting technique consisting of the application of flock (very short fibres) usually nylon or rayon fibres to the surface of a fabric by means of an adhesive. The fibres are propelled into anadhesive that has been screen printed on the fabric in the shapeof desired design. It is used to print various small designs such as dots and figures. The finished work has a very soft hand touch and a three-dimensional feel causes a special tender warm feeling.It can be ideally used to substitute computerized embroidery. In can be in single or multi-coloursThe method used are

Dusting onAn air blastElectrostatic attraction

Batik PrintingThe word Batik comes from Javanese and means “Printing in Wax”It is the type of Resist Printing termed as wax resist printing, also called reserve printingThe wax is melted and deposited on the surface of the fabric in a design/patternThis hot wax resist thus thoroughly penetrates the fibre, protecting from the dye the portion it covers.When finally the wax is removed, the pattern appears on the surface of the cloth and is properly called as “Reserve”Cotton and silk are best suited for batik printingWax is applied through Blocks

Other Printing Types

Burn out PrintingFoam PrintingTransfer PrintingHigh Density PrintingGlitter or Metallic PrintingBead PrintingDye (Polychromatic) or Hand PrintingDigital Printing

Engraving

An essential of printing is printing screensOne screen is needed for each colourEngraving includes design process and screen making processDesign process is completed prior to screen making in design studio on computers having soft wares installed for this purposeManual designing is discouraged now a days due to slow process and extra cost.

Parameters of Rotary Screen

Selection of Screens depends upon design, style of printing, width, depth and sharpness of colours e.g. full tone/half tone.Parameters Normal Range Use in Chenab

Mesh 11-220/inch 30,60,80,125,135,155Length 1280-3500 mm 1850, 2800, 3200Repeat 640-1018 mm 640, 820, 914, 1018

Engraving Process Flow

Scanning

Editing & Adjustment

Print Out Amendment(if required)

ColourSeparations

ScreenMaking

Wax/Laser Jet

Preparation of Screen on Wax Jet

Rounding& Curing

at 160oC for 1 hr

Degreasing(Chromic Acid)

Drying Exposing(on Wax Jet)

Developing(10-15 min.

Normal Water)

Drying

Coating(photosensitive

Chemical)Drying

(25oC for 15 min)

Backing(180oC for 2 hrs)

Ready forPrinting

End RingFixing

Checking& Touching

Preparation of Screen on Laser Jet

Rounding& Curing

at 160oC for 1 hr

Degreasing(Chromic Acid)

DryingCoating

(photosensitiveChemical)

Drying(25oC for 15 min)

Backing(180oC for 2 hrs) Engraving

Ready forPrinting

End RingFixing

Checking& Touching

Printing Machines

Rotary Screen Printing MachineFlat Bed Screen Printing MachineDigital Printing MachineTransfer Printing Machines(Stork TC 1310)Roller Printing Machine

Printing Machines of Chenab

Zimmer 24 Colours 126”Zimmer 12 Colours 110”Stork 12 Colours 110”Stork 12 Colours 72”Stork Sampling 126” (30 m strike off)

Stork Sampling 126” (10 m strike off)

Pigments

These are the colorants which areInsoluble in waterHave no affinity with textile fabric being printedFixed to the fibre by a suitable binding agentFixation is dependent on temperature and timeSuitable for all types of fibres except wool and silkApplicable by all printing techniques e.g. direct, discharge etc.Available both in liquid and powder form

Pigment Printing Flow

Batched Fabric

Feeding on M/C

Printing Storage(upto 24 hours

Fixation(150-160oC)

(5-4 minutes)

Ready forFinishing

Drying(110-120oC)

Reactive Printing Flow

BatchedFabric

Feedingon M/C

Printing Washing

Drying

Ready forFinishing

Drying(110-130oC)

Ageing(100-102oC)(7-9 min.)

Printing FaultsPrint Out / Design OutMiss PrintFlushing of ColoursVariation (Side-Centre-Side)Matching FaultsUneven printing or tintingScreen touching faults (Opening of Screen Figures) – extra colour at more spots (patchy)Closing of Screen – the colour skipsKuchra or other extraneous matter markDoctor lineBlanket MarksScreen Dent(s)

FINISHING & INSPECTION

FinishingThese are the series of operations conducted on the dyed/printed/bleached fabrics to impart desired properties and look, into them as per intended use or customer requirements.The properties are achieved chemically, mechanically or the combination of bothActually it adds value to the fabric.

Various Finished Fabric Properties

Shade and EvennessLook (shine, sheen etc.)Handle (lusture, limpy) Hand feel (soft, hard, crisp)Drape (grace)FormabilityWrinkle recovery

Crease resistanceStrength (tensile, tear)DurabilityPillingShrinkage or dimension stabilityColour retention or colour fastness

Verified Physically Verified via TestingFormability and wrinkle recovery can also be confirmed through testing

Broad Classification of Finishing

Wet FinishingDry Finishingvarious chemical treatments are wet finishing operation where as dry finishing is purely of mechanical nature.

Wet FinishingThe process where the fabric become wet (washing or chemical treatments) are called wet finishing processes and the phenomenon itself as Wet Finishing.Theoretically all the process where wetting of greige fabric involves e.g. bleaching, dyeing, printing, washing and chemical treatments.In common practice wetting process includes the processing where wetting involves of bleached, dyed or printed fabric.

Wet Finishing MachinesStenters

Where chemical treatments are being done. Other functions are Heat Setting, Width adjustment, Curing and rectification.

WashersWhere washing of chemically treated fabric (Resin treated cured fabric) is being carried out

Dry FinishingThe finishing where wetting of fbricis not being done is called dry finishing.It may involve treatment with steam, mechanical pressure, tension etc.Examples are calendaring, snaforizing, raising

Various Dry Finishing Processes

Process Purpose Machines In Chenab

Shearing Surface Cleaning and levelling

Shearing

Raising Napping or Raising of fabric

Raising

Shrinking Shrinkage adjustment

Relaxation Shrinkage or Steam Vaporizing

Sueding/Microsanding and Brushing

Slight napping Sueding/Microsand

Various Dry Finishing Processes

Process Purpose Machines In Chenab

Peaching Slight Napping Emrizing

Calendaring Shine, Sheen, Feel, Look

Calendaring

Shrinkage Shrinkage Control

Sanforizing, Monforizing Sanforizing

Kier Decatasing(K-D)

All round properties

Kier Decatising (BiellaShrink Process or TMT or any other company

Some Specific FinishesWrinkle Free/Wrinkle Resistant/Durable Press/Permanent PrssAnti-ShrunkStain and Soil ReleaseRain/Water proofFlame RetardantUltra SoftUltra FreshSpecial CoatedEasy CareMildew/Fungus/Antimicrobial TreatmentAll these are chemical finishes, however anti-shrunk and crease resistant properties can also be achieved on sanforizing and K.D.

Textile Finishing ChemicalsResinsSoftenersHand Feel AcceleratorsMicro EmulsionsWeighting Agent.StarchesAny other special purpose chemicals

Selection of Finishing Chemicals

End UseCustomer RequirementsStatutory restrictions through certain legislationConformance to Some standards

Oeko Tex 100 standardEU legislation or ECO StandardOther labels e.g. Nordic SWAN, Ultrafreshetc.

Finishing M/C in ChenabMachine Name Quantity

Stenter 10

Calendar 3

Sanforizing 2

Raising 2Microsand 1

Ultra Soft 1

Emrizing 1

Finishing FaultsWrinkles/CreasesStains, Spots, PatchesHoles, Tears, CutsSanforizing Sleeve MarksSelvedge StampingVariable Hand FeelBowing/SkewingUneven Raising/ Sueding/ Emrizing (Peaching)Distortion due to uneven/ extra tensionsTendernessWidth Variation

InspectionIt is the process by virtue of which the fabrics/articles are physically checked to grade/categorize (A,B,C) and to accept or reject.

Internal InspectionGrades are separates acceptable ones from the rejected one (later may be given for rectification if possible). Performs 100% inspection

External InspectionAccept or reject. Usually inspect the sample size but whole lot can also be inspected

Inspection standardsThese are the basis upon which the inspection is carried out and as the result of which the lot in question is accepted or rejected. Standard making bodies for these are

ANSI (American National Standard Institute)ASQ (American Society for Quality)BSI (British Standard Institute)ISO (International Organization for

Standardization)JISC (Japanese Industrial Standard Committee)Military Standards

Inspection StandardsThe most implemented and accepted Inspection Standards in Textile Industry are;

British StandardAmerican 4 – Point StandardJapanese 10-Point StandardDemerit Point DP- 4 Point StandardAQL (a commonly agreed standard for Final/End product)

Major and Minor DefectsMajor Defect

Any identifiable deficiency of discrepancy in an item or product adversely affecting factors of appearance, fit, serviceability, merchandising claims, life or customer appeal to a degree that would provide a discerning customer with justification for a return, complain, or a similar expression of customer dissatisfaction.

Minor DefectAny deficiency or discrepancy not sufficient in degree to be classified as major defect and not considered to be justifiable reason for a return or complaint

B.S. StandardForces and govt based corporate bodies adopt this usually for acceptance or rejection as the case may be. It is based on major and minor defects in the fabrics and consequent allowance therein.For each major defect allowance is given 4 and a half inchFor each minor defect allowance is given 2 and a quarter inchN.C. (not counted) any defective portion which is not included in the length and given free of costAcceptance Criteria:

Usually settled between customer and manufacturerIf not given then 5 major and 5 minor defects per 100 running yards acceptable

Major and minor defects are flagged with different colours

B.S. Standard ExampleFabric Role/Bolt: 1Length in Yards : 105Width in Inches: 60Major Defects: 2Minor Defects: 1Defect Allowance: 2x4.5 + 1x2.25=11.25” or 0.31 ydN.C.: 18” or 0.5 ydTotal Allowance: 0.31 + 0.50 = 0.81 ydNet Payable Length: 105 – 0.81= 104.19 yd

Penalty Points Systems4 Point System 10 Point System DP 4 Point

Defective LengthDefective Length

Penalty Points

Warp Weft

less than 3” 1 less than 1”

less than 1”

1 less then 3cm

1

3”- 6” 2 1”-5” 1”-5” 3 3-20cm 2

6”-9” 3 5”-10” 5” half width

5 20-50cm 3

above 9”upto 36”

4 above 10”upto 36”

full width

10 Above 50cm upto

1 mtr

4

PenaltyPoints

Defective Length

Penalty Points

Points to be ConsideredAcceptance criteria or acceptable points are to be settled by the customer or with mutual agreement during contract reviewInspection is subjected to a pass lab test report otherwise the lot will be rejectedNot more than max (4 or 10) penalty points be assigned to one liner meter/yard, regardless of the number of defect with in that one meter/yardAny piece with a full width defect over six inches in length shall be rejectedThe distance between two major defects should be more than 20 metersHole, torn, tear more than 0.25” is not acceptableAny continuous defect (more than 3mtr/yd) is not acceptable

Acceptance Quality Limits (AQL)

Previously AQL was named as Acceptable Quality Levels. This was as per ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-1993. but in 2003 the standard was named as stated above. Few changes in footnotes and title were endorsed.

How to Use AQLDetermine Lot/Batch SizeFind out Sample Size in General Inspection Level column. (A,B,C, …) depending upon the lot/batch sizeNow see single sampling plan for normal inspection against A,B,C, … determined previously and sample size will be knownPerform inspection on number of pcs as per the sample size (2nd step) against agreed AQLAccept or Reject as per number of defects written in the column. Ac means accept, Re means reject.

Sample Size Code LetterSpecial Inspection levels General Inspection Levels

S-1 S-2 S-3 S-4 I II III2 to 8 A A A A A A B9 to 15 A A A A A B C16 to 25 A A B B B C D

26 to 50 A B B C C D E51 to 90 B B C C C E F91 to 150 B B C D D F G

151 to 280 B C D E E G H281 to 500 B C D E F H J501 to 1200 C C E F G J K

1201 to 3200 C D E G H K L3201 to 10000 C D F G J L M10001 to 35000 C D F H K M N

35001 to 150000 D E G J L N P150001 to 500000 D E G J M P Q500001 and Over D E H K N Q R

Lot or batch size

Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection

Acceptance Quality Limits

0.4 0.65 1 1.5 2.5 4 6.5

Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re

A 2

B 3

C 5 0 1

D 8 1 2

E 13 0 1 1 2 2 3

F 20 0 1 1 2 2 3 3 4

G 12 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6

H 50 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8

J 80 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11

K 125 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15

L 200 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

M 315 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

N 500 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15

P 800 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

Q 1250 10 11 14 51 21 22

R 2000 14 15 21 22

21 22

0 1

0 1

0 10 1

SampleSize

Letter

Sample size

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