learning series: traceability in the leather supply chain
TRANSCRIPT
Learning Series:
Traceability in the Leather
Supply Chain
Webinar 3: Traceability Solution Providers in the Leather Supply Chain
May 25th, 2021
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belong solely to the speakers. As the leader of the RLRT, Textile
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5 webinars on Traceability in the Leather Supply ChainEDT CET
Webinar 1: Understanding Traceability and the UNECE
Guidelines
May 4th 10 -
11am
4 – 5pm
Webinar 2: Traceability Expectations of Sustainability
Standards in the Leather Supply Chain
May 20th 11am -
12pm
5 – 6pm
Webinar 3: Supply Chain Mapping and Traceability
Solution Providers in the Leather Supply
Chain
May 25th 10 -
11am
4 – 5pm
Webinar 4: Joint webinar with NWF and GRSB
Traceability at the farm level: focus on Brazil
June 1st 10 -
11am
4 – 5pm
Webinar 5: The Implementation of Traceability Solutions
in Leather Supply Chains: Brand Experience
June 8th 10 -
11am
4 – 5pm
• Supply chain mapping = Discovery
• A supply chain map is a visual representation of goods, information, processes and money
flows that occur throughout a supply chain both upstream and downstream. (Textile
Exchange)
• Traceability = Assurance
• Traceability is the ability to verify the history, location, or application of an item by means of
documented recorded identification. (ISEAL)
• Transparency = Disclosure
• Supply chain transparency captures the extent to which information about the companies,
suppliers and sourcing locations is readily available to end-users and other companies in the
supply chain. (Textile Exchange)
Supply chain mapping, Traceability, Transparency
Speakers
NICOLE LAMBERT
Textile ExchangePETER HUGHES
Eurofins|BLC
PAUL D'ARRAS
CTC
TONY BENSON
Applied DNA Sciences Inc
TWAN DE BIE
Vitelco Leather
BIRGITTE H. LANGER
SPOOR
Traceability Webinar 3 Agenda:
• Supply chain mapping:
• Eurofins- BLC Sustainability Services' supply chain mapping tool - Peter Hughes
• Traceability technologies applicable to the leather supply chain:
• CTC laser tagging – Paul D'Arras
• DNA applied – Tony Benson
• Leather suppliers that have implemented traceability solutions in their supply
chains:
• Vitelco Leather, Twan De Bie
• Spoor, Birgitte H. Langer
• Q&A
Eurofins | BLC Leather Technology Centre Limitedwww.blcleathertech.com
Managing sustainability issues in leather supply chains
Supply Chain Mapping
Drivers for traceability
• Environmental and social challenges
• Investment
• Legislation
• Customer demands
• Consumer awareness
• Industry programs / certification programs such as Textile Exchange - requirement
➢ Traceability can form the basis of strategic response to managing risk within supply chains
Eurofins | BLC Leather Technology Centre Limited
www.blcleathertech.com
• The global leather market is international, complex and multi-stepped.
• Finished leather producers are often sourcing semi processed leather from other regions of the world, who are in turn sourcing raw material externally.
• The result is that finished leather or leather goods are highly unlikely to originate from the country of purchase.
• Italy for example is one of the largest leather producers globally yet it imports over 90% of its raw material.
• Risk therefore exists up the supply chain, beyond the location of finished leather purchase.
Eurofins | BLC Leather Technology Centre Limitedwww.blcleathertech.com
Raw/finished material distribution
Slaughterhouses
in global locations
Crust to
finished
Finishing
Plants
Asia
Calving Farms
Fattening FarmsFinishing
Plants
Europe
Finishing
Plants
Local
Hide
Traders
Raw to
Finish
Tanners
Split
Traders
Split
Traders
Leather
Traders
Cattle
Traders
Auctions
Indirect farms
Product
manufacturing
Brands and
retail
Consumer
Tanned -
finished
Tanned
to crust
Raw to
crust
Wet Blue
Tanners
Wet Blue
Tanners
Multiple tanneries in global locations
Poor Visibility Good Visibility
Example: Bovine
Material
Potentially hundreds of thousands of farms
Data you are likely to have
Data will be very hard to get
Data BLC can help you get
Data you may have
Eurofins | BLC Leather Technology Centre Limitedwww.blcleathertech.com
The Leather Supply Chain
Map Know Understand Respond
Eurofins | BLC Leather Technology Centre Limitedwww.blcleathertech.com
Supply Chain Mapping – First Step
1
Collaborative
• Agree Number of Tier 1 Suppliers to be mapped
• Establish Project Parameters and timeframe
• Structure of Data Collection
2
Eurofins | BLC
• Project Launch
• Create Supplier Questionnaire
3
Client
• Distribute Questionnaires to suppliers
• Manage Responses
• Send Collated Data to Eurofins | BLC
4
Eurofins | BLC
• Review Data and address validity
• Check Leather Working Group (LWG) Certification status
• Plot Data and create Map
• Regional Cluster Analysis
• Prepare Report
5
Collaborative
•Eurofins | BLC Delivers Report through a Presentation
• Discussion of findings and next steps
• Follow up training webinar with users
2 - 4 Weeks 10 - 12 Weeks 4 - 6 Weeks
Timescale: 6 Months from initiation to completion
Eurofins | BLC Leather Technology Centre Limitedwww.blcleathertech.com
The Process: How it works
Individual Tier 1 Supply Chain
Eurofins | BLC Leather Technology Centre Limitedwww.blcleathertech.com
Leather Working Group Footprint
Eurofins | BLC Leather Technology Centre Limitedwww.blcleathertech.com
Eurofins | BLC Leather Technology Centre Limitedwww.blcleathertech.com
Example deforestation risk assessment
Example Risk Assessment Datasets
Eurofins | BLC Leather Technology Centre Limitedwww.blcleathertech.com
Animal Welfare Air Pollution
Drought Modern Slavery Regional Granularity
Detailed Deforestation
What Eurofins | BLC mapping a supply chain provides
Eurofins | BLC Leather Technology Centre Limitedwww.blcleathertech.com
• Knowledge and understanding of leather and of the supply chain
• Understanding of sensitivities
• Collaboration and delivery against industry group requirements
• Effective risk assessment and due diligence process
• Recommended actions
• Promotes questions within customer organisations
• Customers can interrogate their own data
• Effective response to third party requests
• Optional refresh projects to capture dynamic nature of supply chains
• Optional site auditing based on risk assessment results Satellite images of suppliers
• Visibility and Management over the leather supply chain is becoming increasingly important within thecontext of legislation compliance, NGO scrutiny and Brand reputation
• Mapping your supply chain is the crucial first step to traceability
• The Eurofins|BLC mapping product generates supplier data through supplier questionnaires andengagement. This is presented in a usable format that includes expert risk analysis
• The information can be used to; make informed decisions, respond to scrutiny, comply with legislation andunderstand better environmental and ethical risks such as water use, deforestation and modern slavery
• Commercial benefits can include; improvements to standardisation, quality control, consistency ofproduct, and price negotiation and rationalisation - generating commercial advantage
Eurofins | BLC Leather Technology Centre Limitedwww.blcleathertech.com
Supply Chain MappingTraceability in the Leather Supply Chain
Scope ProjectBuild
QuestionnaireGenerate
Tannery DataValidate, Risk Assess, Map
Presentation of Results
Traceability in the leather supply chain:full implementation on calf skins
Paul d’Arras
Innovation Project Manager / CTC
25th May 2021
Make it easy with CTC
A UNIQUE INNOVATION HUB DEDICATED TO THE LEATHER, LEATHER GOODS, FOOTWEAR, APPAREL INDUSTRIES
Research & DevelopmentTraining
ConsultancyAudits
Chemical and physical testing laboratories
Traceability: Context and objectives
• Animal Welfare
• Environment
• …Responsible Business
• Process quality
• Process regulation
• …Process improvement
• Upstream defects management
• Virtuous loop
• Supply managementQuality improvement
CTC Traceability system: From R&D
CTC Laser markingsystem
Marking on the grain
sidethrough the
hair
Unitarytraceability
Resist to the tanningprocesses
Unique ID per hide
CTC Traceability system: To Production
Paper labelFlaying
Salting workshop Laser marking of each hide
Beamhouse
Tri Wet Blue
Leather
Slaughterhouse
Hide / skintraders
Tannery
Manufacturer Control
Breeding
Automaticreading
2: Marking evolution during the tannery process
Salted hides and skins Unhaired Wet Blue Semi finished Leather Finished Leather
3: Automatic code reader on a leather’s stack
On a stack of leather on a pallet: Acquisition module by a matrix camera
4: Database
FARMER SLAUGHTERHOUSE TANNER
Ear tag Paper label Laser marker Auto reader
Defects sorting
Database
Passport
WhereWhenWhoId skin
WhereWhenWhoId skin
WhereWhenWhoId skin
WhereWhenWhoId skinMeal data
DefectsList
MANUFACTURER HIDE / SKIN TRADER
Many countries
> 10
Animal husbandry
Slaughterhouses
Hidetraders
Tanneries
> 10 0 0
4 0 3 (+ 2) 0
0 0 3 (+ 3) Close contact
Manufacturers
25th May 2021
Providing Traceability in the Leather Supply Chain Using DNA Technology
Tony Benson, Managing Director, EMEA
© Copyright. 2021. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
• NASDAQ-listed as APDN
• Corporate HQ in Stony Brook, NY; LineaRx subsidiary
• 60+ staff in US, UK, India; Distributors in US, EMEA,– Central Testing Laboratory in Ahmedabad, India
• Over 80 Worldwide issued patents and over 50 pending patent applications
• Regulatory and Accreditations– ISO 9001:2008 Certified/Registered (ANAB) – quality management– ISO/IEC 17025:2005 Accredited (A2LA) – testing and calibration– Following 2011 FDA Guidance on Physical Chemical Identifier (PCID)– Drug Master File submitted to FDA; cGMP work environment
• World’s largest PCR-based mass producer of DNA
Applied DNA Sciences
37© Copyright. 2021. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Proven Technology – Use Case Examples
Dept of Defense Textiles Leather Fertilizer Cash-in-Transit
Pharmaceuticals Cannabis Automotive Recycled Plastics
147 criminals convicted; 720 sentence years to date
Feathers / Down
© Copyright. 2021. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
SigNature® Tag: What is it?
• Information-carrying molecular bar code
• Synthetic, engineered short-chain DNA fragments
• Designed and optimized for stability, recovery & ease of analysis
• Short, inert, inactive fragments: non-functional and non-GMO
• Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS 3rd-Party assessed)
• Manufactured at scale by very large scale PCR
• One-time or repeat use
Define purpose / functionality
Assign molecular tag
A AG C T G C
Proprietary technology with multiple awarded and pending patents for design and formulation
Formulate with carrier at parts
per billion / trillion
Finish
© Copyright. 2021. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Leather Traceability – How Does it Work?
1. Unique DNA tag(s) designed and allocated to tannery / brands
2. Tag added during finish – e.g. PU finish
3. Shoe manufactured using the tagged leather
4. Shoe can be tested at any point in the supply chain using portable test equipment or at Applied DNA laboratories
Note – A shoe is used only as an example of a leather product
© Copyright. 2021. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Tag Finished LeatherAfter re-tanning at the finishing tannery, the SigNature® T molecular tag may be applied to finished leather in a coating. This tag can be used to identify the finishing tannery and / or brand.
The tag is added, for example, into a PU finish and sprayed onto the leather.
There are no changes to existing processes at the finishing tannery.
T A G
© Copyright. 2021. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Test at the TanneryA QC inspection using SigNify® portable test equipment can be performed on the tagged leather prior to shoe manufacture ensuring authenticity and establishing point of origin
T E S T
© Copyright. 2021. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Test at Shoe ManufacturerA test using SigNify® portable test equipment can be performed on the finished shoe prior to distribution
T E S T
© Copyright. 2021. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Testing by BrandsBrands can perform on-site testing of tagged finished leather using SigNify® portable DNA authentication equipment to separate genuine items from fakes and provide enhanced traceability.
T E S T
© Copyright. 2021. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Video Showing Portable Test Equipment
The following link demonstrates how the DNA test is carried out.
In this example it shows DNA testing of fertiliser pellets.
The testing of leather is carried out the same way: -
https://vimeo.com/208521988/b1fed10901
© Copyright. 2021. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Are we already DNA tagging leather?
✓ YES
✓ Have successfully completed DNA Tagging leather in commercial pilots in the World’s largest tanneries in ASIA for several top brands on footwear and proved the DNA can still be recovered after over 12 months
✓ If you are interested in providing your customers with traceability for your leather from the finishing tannery to the retail store please contact me [email protected]
© Copyright. 2021. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
How can you achieve complete Traceability?
▪ Laser etching using ear tag data provides traceability from farm to finishing tannery
▪ DNA tagging on the hide during finishing provides traceability from the finishing tannery to the product manufacturer and the retail store
▪ If you want to be included in future commercial pilots we can easily arrange it
© Copyright. 2021. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Contact Us:Applied DNA Sciences
50 Health Sciences Drive, Stony Brook, NY 11790 USAMain Tel: +1 631 240 8800
www. adnas.com
Tony Benson, Managing Director, [email protected]
+44 7552 429341
© Copyright. 2021. All Rights Reserved. Applied DNA Sciences, Inc.
Wat
Wie Datum
Aan wie
Traceability
Twan de Bie, Vitelco leather
May 25th, 2021
Traceability Webinar 3
Introduction
Ing. T.L.A. de Bie MBA
Managing Director
+31 620 536 481
nl.linkedin.com/in/twandebie
May
‘21
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2
May
‘21
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3
Member of
Founded 1959
From livestock trader to veal producer
Family business, 2nd generation
650 employees
€ 485 mio. turnover
2nd largest veal producer in Europe
May
‘21
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Veal production
• Fully integrated chain
• Slaughter 350.000 calves / year
• 7.000 calf skins / week
May
‘21
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Controlledintegrated chain
• Every at Vitelco slaughtered calf is controlled and certified by SKV
• Concepts with extra welfare conditions like ‘Beter Leven’, ‘Vitel Oké’, etc.
• Fully integrated chain at PALI Group
www.skv.info
May
‘21
—Sl
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Traceability
2 reasons for full traceability of calf leather
1. Full transparency for our customer
Sustainability and durability
2. Feedback to our farms
Improve quality
The NEED to know where your product came from and where it has been
May
‘21
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ide
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Traceability in leather
System:
Laser marking
Applied after selection
RFID label
Applied in fresh hide
Electronically readable
May
‘21
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ide
11
Planning
System ready next month
Start marking hides
Supply traceable hides
Finetune technique
Implement reading
Supply laser traceability system
Thank you
Ing. T.L.A. de Bie MBAManaging Director
[email protected]+31 620 536 481nl.linkedin.com/in/twandebie
Tel: +31 544 39 26 00
Fax: +31 544 39 26 26
Aaltenseweg 4
7131 ND Lichtenvoorde
Nederland
Our guarantees
Wide selection Continuous availability Consistent quality Traceability Integrated chain
TextileExchange.org
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