leather vase project with charlie davenport · ject (basic leather carving, hand stitching, etc...)...

LEATHER • 4-5oz Veg-Tanned Leather (Sides) • 5-6oz Veg-Tanned Leather (Base)

TOOLS • 35010-02 Straight Trim Knife • 35017-00 Small Round Knife • 31811-00 Adjustable “V” Gouge • 8117-01 Pointed Bone Creaser • 3606-00 Ruler • 8120-00 Glass Burnisher • 8077-02 Keen Edge Beveler, Size 2 • 8121-00 Multi-Sized Wood Slicker • 8039-06 Pro Modeling Tool, Stylus • 8039-01 F/Small Round Spoon • 88013-00 Hair Blade Tool • 3465-00 Pro Cutting Board • 3777-33 Drive Punch, Size 00 • 88081-00 Pro Stitching Groover Set • 31218-01 Stitching Awl w/ Blade • 1192-00 Harness Needles • 3132-00 Stitching Pony • 35048-00 Pro Swivel Knife • Craftool® Stamps (B200, B197, F897, S632, S864, F941)

OTHER SUPPLIES • 11207-02 Waxed Linen Thread, Ntrl • 2620-01 Gum Tragacanth • 2225-01 Edge Kote, Black • 3447-03 Flat Brush, 1-1/2in • 2607-03 Eco-Flo™ Ant. Gel, M Brn • 2611-01 Eco-Flo™ Satin Shene • 3448-12 Synthetic Wool Pads

NOTES • For a less advance project, omit the four external short pocket pieces. • For additional instructions for some of the techniques discussed on the pro-ject (Basic Leather Carving, Hand Stitching, etc...) please watch our how-to videos: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/Leathercraft-Videos.aspx

This premium has been published by Tandy Leather Factory, 1900 South East

Loop 820, Ft. Worth, TX 76140. Copyright © 2011 by Tandy Leather Factory,

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LEATHER VASE PROJECT with Charlie Davenport

ANOTHER LEATHER PROJECT FROM www.tandyleather.wordpress.com

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/Leathercraft-Videos.aspx



folding the edges with one hand and simulta-neously run the bone folder down the chan-nel. Repeat for other sides of base, and let dry.

DESIGN WORK Prep your leather

pieces for design work, by dampening the leather. Transfer a tooling design to the leather with a stylus. After transfer-ring design, cut the design into the leather with a swivel knife (only cut the solid lines, do not cut the dotted lines).

Bevel all cut and dotted lines with a bev-eler. The F941 fits nicely in the “V”s in

the center. After beveling all the cut lines, I will use a modeling spoon to

round all the cut edges, smooth out any rough beveling, and add any additional design work. Wait until the leather is almost dry prior to beginning the back-ground design work. You can use any back-ground or matting tool for this project, I

chose to use a couple of seeders to fill the back-ground areas. Lastly, I dragged the hair blade tool across the buds to add some addition texture.

DYEING & FINISHING To apply some color to this pro-

ject I used the Eco-Flo™ Antique Stain Medium Brown. I applied the stain with a synthetic wool pad, working the stain into all cuts and impressions.

Wipe off excess stain with paper towel or rag before stain dries, and

buff. Wait until stain is completely dry, and then apply a finish. I applied a thin coat of Eco-Flo™ Satin Shene with a 1-1/2” flat brush, let dry.

HAND STITCHING There are a few different op-

tions you have at this point. The first and easiest way is to use the template and mark the placement of the stitching holes, and then punch the holes using a size #00 drive punch.

The second option uses an awl and groover for a more professionally finished look.

PATTERN TEMPLATES Use the patterns provided to make your own reusable templates from heavy cardstock, bag stiffener, or other template material for future use.

CUT LEATHER Layout your leather grain side up on your work surface, then place templates onto the leather and trace around the template with a stylus. An-other way is to layout the leather grain side down, and trace around the tem-plate with a pen or pencil.

Carefully using a knife cut out your leather. Use a ruler for all straight lines for a cleaner cut. The base piece requires some additional work to assist in folding the edge flaps. Use a ruler

to mark the fold lines on the flesh side as shown on the tem-plate. Using a ruler and the Adjustable Gouge, gouge a chan-nel from corner to corner about half the depth of the

leather. I used the small round knife to widen the gouge

to make the folding of the flap easier. Now is a good time to punch the stitching holes with a size #00 drive punch. Next, lightly dampen the gouged channels, and then start









COMPLETED

ASSEMBLY The first step to assembling the

vase is to attach the exterior pockets to the larger side panels. Next step is to

stitch two of the side panels together, then attach remaining panels. Once all four side panels are attached to, each other attach the base piece. Note: to add

some additional strength to the pro-ject, I double stitched at the top of the vase and the junction where all four side pieces join.

EDGE FINISHING After you have assembled the

vase, it is time to clean up and finish the edges. The first step is to even up the edges; I use a straight edge knife to trim off the excess leather. Next, I used a size 2 Keen Edge

Beveler to round the edges of the vase. To get a smooth polished edge I applied Gum Tragacanth to the edges and “slicked” with the Multi-Sized Wood Slicker until dry and polished. The final

step is to apply an edge finish. I applied Fie-bing’s black Edge Kote with a small wool dauber.









ANOTHER LEATHER PROJECT FROM TANDYLEATHER.WORDPRESS.COM

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©2010 by Tandy Leather Factory. All Rights Reserved.

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leather vase project with charlie davenport · ject (basic leather carving, hand stitching, etc...)...

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