A Designers Guide to Research VDIS10047 Fashion Marketing by Ron Newman

This lecture on Research of the consumer and consumer market is broadly based on a paper written by Scott Young, President of Perception Research Services in New Jersey, USA. Scott Young regularly authors articles on packaging and point-of-sale research for publications such as Brand Packaging, Package Design, Marketing at Retail and The Design Management Journal.

Although focussed on general retail research the principles expressed in Young’s paper are relevant to fashion products because so much of fashion design ends up in general retail outlets. The paper also offers a counterpoint to the issues of “high” branded fashion design that still undertakes and uses traditional marketing research to extend and support their brands.

“  Some'mes  I  am  led  to  think  that  research  into  customer  behaviour  is  almost  an'  design  taking  away  the  intui've  thinking  of  the  designer  who  responds  to  a  well  thought  out  design  brief  or  a  perceived  need;  some'mes  I  think  that  if  we  just  respond  to  what  the  customer  thinks  he  or  she  wants  then  there  will  be  no  new  ideas  because  customers  are  renowned  for  only  thinking  in  the  context  of  what  already  exists.  In  this  lecture  I  wish  to  cause  you  to  think  about  consumer  research  and  how  it  does  or  does  not  drive  design.    

We  constantly  come  across  consumer  research  that  may  or  may  not  be  flawed  and  as  designers  we  will  have  to  find  our  way  through  it,  Recently  I  found:  Consumer  Research  Roundup:  7  Studies  Explaining  Why  You  Buy,  Why  You  Have  No  Free  Time,  and  Why  a  Designer  Good  Purchase  Can  Snowball:  theories  as  to  why  the  layout  of  IKEA  stores  is  so  damn  confusing,  and  why  the  presence  of  a  Walmart  in  a  neighbourhood  may  have  caused  the  locals  to  gain  weight.    

We  are  told  that  studies  indicate  that  …    Walmart  makes  you  fat.  Two  economists  traced  a  decade’s  worth  of  health  and  popula'on  data  (between  1996  and  2005),  and  found  that  the  opening  of  a  Walmart  supercenter  coincided  with  a  weight  gain  of  1.5  pounds  for  the  average  person  living  nearby,  and  the  obesity  rate  rose  2.3%.  (One  ques'on:  How  much  did  the  overall  obesity  rate  go  up  during  that  same  'me  period?)  

We  are  told  that  studies  indicate  that  …    The  “last-­‐name  effect”  makes  one  more  eager  to  buy.  If  a  surname  begins  with  an  end  of  the  alphabet  leZer  (R  to  Z),  then  these  people  have  become  accustomed  to  standing  on  the  back  of  the  line  since  grade  school.  Research  indicates  the  result  of  this  wait-­‐your-­‐turn,  there  are  consumers  who  have  never  goZen  over  the  feeling  of  losing  out  and  not  ge]ng  first  pick,  who  decide  to  purchase  goods  much  faster  with  less  thought  than  their  early-­‐in-­‐the-­‐alphabet  counterparts.    

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We  are  told  that  studies  indicate  that  …    IKEA  is  designed  to  be  confusing—to  spur  on  impulse  buying.  UK  theories  say  that  the  zig-­‐zagging,  maze-­‐like  design  of  IKEA  stores  is  inten'onally  confusing.  Picture  the  typical  IKEA  customer  who  stumbles  upon  an  item  that  seems  somewhat  interes'ng.  Scared  that  they  will  never  be  able  to  find  their  way  back  through  the  maze  and  find  the  item  later,  they  pick  it  up  even  before  being  sure  they  really  want  it.  That’s  exactly  what  IKEA  wants  to  happen.  

We  are  told  that  studies  indicate  that  …    The  more  you  earn,  the  more  you  feel  pressed  for  Sme.  People  don’t  necessarily  feel  rushed  based  strictly  on  the  ra'o  of  hours  worked  versus  free  'me.  Instead,  studies  show  that  a  rise  in  income  generally  coincides  with  a  rise  in  'me  pressure,  and  it’s  not  just  because  people  who  make  more  have  to  work  more;  because  some'mes,  they  don’t.  The  idea  is  that  as  people  earn  more,  they  value  their  'me  more,  and  therefore  they’re  more  likely  to  get  stressed  about  a  lack  of  'me.    

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We  are  told  that  studies  indicate  that  …    High-­‐end  logos  sales  actually  grew  more  prominent  during  the  recession.  The  widespread  assump'on  was  that  flashy,  conspicuous  consumer  behavior  was  distasteful  during  the  heart  of  the  recession.  A  more  subdued  approach  was  called  for!  However  between  January  2008  and  May  2009,  Gucci  and  Louis  VuiZon  made  the  brand  logos  on  their  handbags  even  more  pronounced  and  iden'fiable,  according  to  marke'ng  researchers  who  undertook  a  study.    

We  are  told  that  studies  indicate  that  …    You  will  spend  money  to  gain  social  acceptance.  In  a  series  of  experiments,  par'cipants  who  felt  socially  ostracized  were  more  likely  to  buy  goods  that  made  them  feel  like  part  of  a  group,  such  as  a  school  spirit  wristband.  When  paired  with  a  partner,  those  who  had  been  made  to  feel  socially  excluded  were  also  more  apt  to  buy  whatever  the  partner  wanted  to  buy.    Read  more:  hZp://business.'me.com/2011/02/28/consumer-­‐research-­‐roundup-­‐7-­‐studies-­‐explaining-­‐why-­‐you-­‐buy-­‐why-­‐you-­‐have-­‐no-­‐free-­‐'me-­‐and-­‐why-­‐a-­‐designer-­‐good-­‐purchase-­‐can-­‐snowball/#ixzz2PwCfdRfg  

   

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Scott Young believes that to too many designers, the word "research" conjures up visions of their work dissected by housewives turned art directors - or being buried in a mind - numbing sea of numbers and data tables. However, Scott believes as marketers recognise the power of design, consumer research is playing a larger role in the development and assessment of all forms of design, from packaging and point - of - purchase to direct mail, logos and Websites.

In fact, many designers are realising that documenting the value of their work (via consumer feedback) is critical to earning the respect, recognition (and income) they deserve. Unfortunately, many researchers have limited experience in working with design - and are unable to provide designers with the actionable, constructive feedback they need. With this problem in mind, Scott offers several observations and suggestions for insuring accurate, insightful consumer feedback.

Mistakes that often compromise the value of research: Using Research Only as a "Disaster Check" Far too often, customer research is used only as a "disaster check" before investing in a new design system, rather than a source of insight and guidance throughout the design process. Actionable research should take place prior to creative work. Better understanding of consumers’ priorities and shopping patterns - the strengths and limitations of current designs can clarify objectives.

Mistakes that often compromise the value of research: Using Focus Groups to Make Final Decisions While focus groups are much maligned, they remain the fastest, most cost-efficient way to speak with consumers. They also have several advantages relative to surveys, in that they offer a "hands-on" experience for designers (via one-way mirror) - and the flexibility to discuss many design alternatives and communication issues. For these reasons, focus groups will always remain popular.

Mistakes that often compromise the value of research: Using Focus Groups to Make Final Decisions Unfortunately, focus groups are often misused to make final assessments and "go/no-go" design decisions. This is a mistake, due to the relatively small number of customers involved and the nature of the focus group setting. By definition, focus groups involve forced, extended exposure to designs outside the context in which they will appear in real life.

Mistakes that often compromise the value of research: Using Focus Groups to Make Final Decisions Scott Young gives the example of focus group participants who consistently praised an attractive new package for a leading brand of vinegar. When the new packaging hit the stores, sales dropped immediately and sharply. Studies revealed shoppers had difficulty finding the new package on shelves, and many loyal users mistakenly believed the new design indicated an unwanted change in the product itself.

Positive measures to realise the value of research: Guidelines for Effective Design Research Given the need for survey research, Scott Young says the challenge is to insure that research provides accurate, insightful and actionable feedback. Certainly, there is not a single "formula" for doing so. Research programs should be customised to address specific marketing and design objectives - rather than "forcing" each design into a standardised methodology and set of measures.

Positive measures to realise the value of research: Representative Design Stimulus The quickest way to kill a good idea is to show it to consumers before its time. Designers are often forced to submit rough sketches for use in quantitative studies, with predictable (i.e. negative) results. This is also an enormous challenge in research related to structural design, as the cost of making functional prototypes or simulating retail environments is often prohibitive.

Positive measures to realise the value of research: Representative Design Stimulus Computer - based design stimulus does not always provide acceptable resolution and colour fidelity. While there aren't any easy solutions, it is important that designers work with clients and researchers to ensure that the stimulus "does justice" to their concepts. It is better to have agreed design stimulus before the study than a disputed and/or misleading findings.

Positive measures to realise the value of research: A Monadic Research Design (Avoid "Beauty Contests") The most accurate findings and insights come from monadic studies, in which each person is shown only one design option for a product or brand - and responses from the people who saw Design A are later compared to those from people who saw Design B or Design C. "Beauty contests” in which several design options are shown and compared don’t work.

Positive measures to realise the value of research: A Monadic Research Design (Avoid "Beauty Contests") When people see several designs for the same brand, they tend to lose their perspective as consumers evaluating brands and products; and instead simply pick the most attractive design. Unfortunately, the most attractive design system is not always the most effective design, as it may fail to communicate key product benefits and/or reflect desired brand imagery.

Positive measures to realise the value of research: Measures of Visibility and Consideration In nearly all instances, designers are given a fixed amount of space and challenged to create materials which gain and hold consumers’ attention. This first hurdle, gaining consideration, should not be taken for granted. Scott Young’s research indicates people typically spend under 10 seconds at most grocery categories, and typically fail to see and consider over 1/3 of the brands in each category.

Positive measures to realise the value of research: Measures of Visibility and Consideration For a design system to be effective, it must break through clutter (a crowded shelf, a group of signs, a series of products), hold attention long enough to give a message. Design research has to involve behavioural research. Forcing people to consider a design and asking their opinion fails to account for the reality of the viewing experience, and only gets half of the communication story.

Positive measures to realise the value of research: Actionable Diagnostic Guidance Research should assist design rather than merely assess it. It is a mistake to reduce research to a "scorecard" of pre-determined standards, to replace a comprehensive study with "simulated shopping.” Young found comprehensive studies addressing "hurdles" to effective design (visibility, aesthetic appeal, design attributes, brand perceptions) likely to identify diagnostic guidance for "fine-tuning" designs.

Positive measures to realise the value of research: Using Design Research as a Source of Competitive Advantage While few designers question the value of speaking with consumers, only a few designers have a full, systematic commitment to research. Consumer insight remains one way in which designers can distinguish themselves from competitors, enhancing and documenting the effectiveness of their work.

Positive measures to realise the value of research: View Research as a Resource, Rather than a Threat The key to using research constructively is gathering consumer feedback throughout the design process. For some designers, this means exploring pre-design research and qualitative research early in the design process. For others, it involves moving beyond focus groups, to gather the insights which only survey research can provide.

Positive measures to realise the value of research: Incorporate Research within Project Planning Finally, Scott Young says the major barrier to conducting research properly is frequently timing, rather than budget constraints. If research is not built into design schedules from the beginning, it is rare that clients can find the 3 to 4 weeks needed for a study. Coordinating research from the beginning, to incorporate research into proposals and project timelines, is critical to using research effectively.”

And so the previous pages offer some summaries into how design research is approached in the market place and it is clear that the role of consumer research is still much argued and that there are differing views on the accuracy of the outcomes of the research. What is not in doubt is that a design brief informed by a real understanding of the market requirements will always help the designer to a better result.

A Designers Guide to Research VDIS10047 Fashion Marketing by Ron Newman