LESSON 1 Indian Slaw

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Indian SlawBund Gobhi Nu Shaak

Unless your mama is from western India, chances are this is not your mother’s mayo-smothered, garlic powder-ridden coleslaw. Nutty, tart, with a citrus burst, these

crunchy shreds of cabbage pack just the right amount of heat from the fairly benign serrano chiles. Serve the slaw as is for a salad course or as an accompaniment to your traditional picnic fare. For an elegant presentation, I often serve the slaw after the appetizer course mounded on top of leaves from a romaine heart with, when seasonal, an edible flower as garnish.

1 If you are using a half cabbage, remove the tough rib from the

bottom by making diagonal cuts on either side and lifting it out in a V-shaped wedge. You will end up with a V-shaped opening at the base. Cut the cabbage half in half lengthwise. Slice both halves into shreds, as thin as you can. Place the green and red (if using) cabbage shreds in a large bowl. If you are using a preshredded

coleslaw mix (which usually has a few shreds of carrots and red cabbage in it for color), empty the contents of the bag into a large bowl.

2 Slice the chiles lengthwise and then cut them into thin slices, crosswise,

to form half moons of chiles that still have the rib and seeds within. Do not discard the seeds. Add the chiles to the cabbage along with the bell pepper.

3 Place the peanuts in a spice grinder (you can also use a coffee grinder),

food processor or mini chopper and pulse the nuts to the consistency of coarse bread crumbs. Letting the machine run constantly will create a gummy result the consistency of peanut butter. Add the coconut, cilan-tro, salt, and lime juice. Sprinkle the ground peanuts over the cabbage mixture.

Makes 6 cups

1⁄2 small head of green cabbage (about 1 pound) or 1 bag (14 ounces) coleslaw mix

Handful of shredded red cabbage (optional)

1 to 2 fresh green serrano chiles, stems discarded

1⁄4 large red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into thin strips

1⁄4 cup dry-roasted peanuts

1⁄4 cup dried unsweetened coconut shreds (see Extra Credit)

1⁄4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems

11⁄2 teaspoons coarse kosher or sea salt

Juice from 1 medium-size lime

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 teaspoon black or yellow mustard seeds

1⁄4 teaspoon ground turmeric

VEgaN

gLutEN frEE

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4 roast the mustard seeds in the hot oil. If you have a lid or protective screen, place it over the skillet so none of the popping seeds escape. Once they stop popping, add the turmeric.

3 Place the shredded cabbage in a large bowl and add the chiles, bell pepper strips, coconut, cilantro, and salt. Sprinkle in the peanuts over all and squeeze in the lime juice.

2 Cut the cabbage half in half again. Lay one of the cabbage pieces cutside down on a flat surface and cut it into thin shreds. If you wish, add some red cabbage shreds as well.

1 Place the cabbage half on a cutting board and remove the core using a V-shaped cut. I like to add a little red cabbage for color. Since I often make cabbage dishes, the unused portions won’t go to waste in my household.

4 Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil

appears to shimmer, add the mustard seeds, cover the skillet, and cook until the seeds have stopped popping (not unlike popcorn), about 30 seconds.

5 Remove the skillet from the heat and sprinkle in the turmeric,

which will instantly bathe the oil with its yellow hue; the heat from the skillet will be just right to cook the turmeric without burning it. Pour the mustard-turmeric mixture over the cabbage. I often grab some of the cab-bage from the bowl and add it to the skillet, wiping it clean with the shreds to make sure I get every last bit of

spice and oil. Using tongs, spoons, or my favorite, a clean hand, thoroughly combine the slaw in the large bowl to ensure every shred of cabbage is evenly coated.

6 Serve the slaw either at room temperature (my preference) or

chilled.

Extra Credit• Adecent-size

supermarket,worthitsweightingold,shouldstockdriedunsweetenedcoconuteitheronthehealthfoodsaisleorinthebakingsection.Iftheydon’t,grabthatbagofhighlysweetenedcoconutshredsonthebakingshelf,theonethatisoftenakeyingredientincoconutcreampiesandothercoconut-baseddessertslikemacaroons(myweakness).

Tousesweetenedcoconutinthisrecipe,place1⁄2cupofthesugaryshredsinamedium-sizebowl.Coverthemwithwaterandrunyourfingersthroughthecoconuttorinseoffsomeofthesugar.Transferthecoconuttoafine-meshedcolander.Returnthecoconuttothebowlandrepeatwiththerinsingandstraining.Youmay

needtodothis3or4timestomakesurethatallofthesugarisgone.Anunderlyingsweetnessisfinesincefreshlyshreddedcoconutdoeshaveaninherentsweettaste.

• Iamasuckerforcookedcabbage.OftentimesifIhaveleftoverslawIwilladdittoaskilletalongwithalittlewatertocoverthebottomoftheskilletandheatthecabbageuntilitwarmsthrough.Alittleextrakickfromaliberalsprinklingofgroundredpepper(cayenne)takescareofmyaddictionfornutty,hot,crisp-tendercabbageuntilthenextfix.

• Peanutallergysufferers,ifitissafeforyoutoeatothernuts,useanequalamountofafavoriteasanalternativetothepeanuts.

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7  Serve the slaw at room temperature—it’s the best for enjoying the burst of flavors.

5  You want to be sure to get every drop of the spice mixture, so use some of the slaw to wipe out the skillet.

6  Toss the slaw with the spice mixture.  I like to use my hands to make sure it’s well mixed.