LINKS To Homeownership

Home Maintenance Manual

© 2007 Michigan State Housing Development Authority

TABLE OF CONTENTS Section 1 – Wall Repair and Painting Wall Repair and Painting Class Outline…………………………………………………………...1 Learning Objectives………………………………………………………………………………..1 Wall Repair and Painting Terms to Know…………………………………………………………2 Tools for Wall Repair and Painting………………………………………………………………..4 Wall Repair and Painting Process………………………………………………………………….5 Repairing Nail Pops………………………………………………………………………………..6 Filling Cracks………………………………………………………………………………………7 Repairing Holes In Drywall Using a Drywall Patch……………………………………………….8 Repairing Drywall Using Wood Backing………………………………………………………….9 Repairing a Hole in a Plaster Wall………………………………………………………………..10 Preparing to Paint…………………………………………………………………………………11 Brushes……………………………………………………………………………………………11 Rollers…………………………………………………………………………………………….13 Exterior Painting………………………………………………………………………………….14 Lead Hazards In The Home………………………………………………………………………15 Health Effects of Exposure To Lead……………………………………………………………...15 Ways to Reduce Exposure to Lead……………………………………………………………….15 Section 2 – Plumbing and Furnaces Plumbing and Furnaces Class Outline…………………………………………………………….1 Learning Objectives……………………………………………………………………………….1 Plumbing & Furnaces Terms and Tools to Know…………………………………………………2 A Home’s Plumbing System………………………………………………………………………7 Faucet Types – Four Main Kinds………………………………………………………………….8

Kitchen Sinks...…………………………………………………………………………………..10 Repairing a Leaky Faucet………………………………………………………………………...11 Temporary Leaking Pipe Repair………………………………………………………………….12 Toilet Guts………………………………………………………………………………………..13 Your Toilet’s Running……………………………………………………………………………14 When Water Leaks from the Tank into the Bowl………………………………………………...14 Replacing a Wax Ring……………………………………………………………………………15 General Toilet Issues to Consider………………………………………………………………...16 Leaking Shower Head…………………………………………………………………………….17 Repairing a Leaky Tub Faucet……………………………………………………………………18 Water Heaters……………………………………………………………………………………..19 Maintaining Your Furnace………………………………………………………………………..20 Increasing the Efficiency of Your Home’s Heating and Cooling System………………………..22 Section 3 – Electrical Repairs and Energy Conservation Electrical Repairs and Energy Conservation Class Outline………………………………………..1 Learning Objectives………………………………………………………………………………..1 Electrical Terms to Know………………………………………………………………………….2 How Your Home Electrical System Works………………………………………………………..5 Tools Needed for Electrical Repairs……………………………………………………………….7 General Rules About Minor Electrical Repairs You Can Do……………………………………...8 Labeling Your Electric Panel……………………………………………………………………..10 Switching a Two Prong Outlet to a GFCI………………………………………………………...11 Replacing a Light Switch…………………………………………………………………………14 Energy Conservation……………………………………………………………………………...16

Section 4 – Landscaping Landscaping Class Outline………………………………………………………………………...1 Learning Objectives………………………………………………………………………………..1 Common Landscaping and Lawn Care Terms……………………………………………………..2 Michigan USDA Hardiness Zones…………………………………………………………………4 Zone 3 Recommended Plants, Trees, and Shrubs………………………………………………….4 Zone 4 Recommended Plants, Trees, and Shrubs………………………………………………….5 Zone 5 Recommended Plants, Trees, and Shrubs………………………………………………….5 Zone 6 Recommended Plants, Trees, and Shrubs………………………………………………….6 Eight Easy Plants to Grow In Michigan…………………………………………………………...7 Caring for your Lawn Mower and Garden Tools………………………………………………….8 Installing and Caring for a New Lawn……………………………………………………………10 Seasonal Lawn Care Tips…………………………………………………………………………11 Planting and Caring for Annuals, Perenials, and Vegetables…………………………………….13 When You Are Ready to Plant Your Annuals……………………………………………………14 Perennials That Work Well In Michigan Sun…………………………………………………….15 Planting Perennials………………………………………………………………………………..16 Planting Fruits and Vegetables…………………………………………………………………...17 Landscaping for Energy Efficiency………………………………………………………………19 Section 5 – Structural, Doors, Windows, And Insulation Structural Class Outline……………………………………………………………………………1 Learning Objectives………………………………………………………………………………..1 Basic Home Tool Kit………………………………………………………………………………2 Terminology – Your Home Structure……………………………………………………………...7 Preventative Home Maintenance…………………………………………………………………..9

Home Maintenance Checklist……………………………….........................................................10 Doors and Door Locks……………………………………………………………………………17 Thinking About Replacing Exterior Door Locks? Think About This…………………………...17 Other Door Lock Features to Look For…………………………………………………………..18 Windows………………………………………………………………………………………….19 Insulation…………………………………………………………………………………………20 Household Mold…………………………………………………………………………………..21 Cleaning Up An Existing Mold Problem…………………………………………………………23

WALL REPAIR AND PAINTING

Michigan State Housing Development Authority Links to Homeownership

Home Maintenance Series

Wall Repair & Painting Class Outline

1. Spend time reviewing wall repair and painting terms ~ have tools, drywall, patching material, tape, brushes and paint available for class participants to see, examine and use while participating in class.

2. Review the tool list. Have participants name and handle actual tools after reviewing the

pictures in the manual.

3. Describe the process of repairing and painting walls. Discuss with the class the importance of clean and well prepared work surfaces. Reference lead paint concerns for those with older homes.

4. Practice repairing small nail holes and filling cracks.

5. Discuss the process of repairing large holes and the various ways this can be done. Practice

sanding old repairs and discover how different types of sandpaper produce different results.

6. Show class members the different types of brushes and describe their preferred uses.

7. Demonstrate proper brushing and rolling techniques.

8. Discuss lead hazards and pay particular attention to the lead hazards in home remodeling jobs.

Learning Objectives: Class participants will have knowledge in the following areas:

• Wall repair and painting terminology • Tools and supplies for wall repair and painting • Repairing cracks and holes in walls • Priming and painting interior and exterior surfaces

• Installing wall fasteners

• Lead hazards in the home

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Wall Repair & Painting Terms to Know:

Anchor Bolt (as a fastener): Made of plastic and used for hanging medium weight objects, these fasteners are placed in a pre-drilled hole its size and expand slightly when a screw is inserted. Drywall: Four by eight sheets of gypsum wall board with a paper covering that comes in varying thickness and is placed over studs as the interior wall surface. It is finished with joint compound and paper tape then primed before painting.

Gummed Cloth Hanger: Tape-like hanger with a sticky side that has a small hook for hanging light weight objects on walls. Leaves a residue on some surfaces upon removal and may fail in high humidity environments.

Joint Compound: Substance used to fill spaces or cracks in drywall. Also known as mud.

Paper tape (aka Drywall Tape): Used to in conjunction with joint compound to help seal the space between drywall boards or to cover large drywall cracks. Mesh tape is preferred by some because it is sticky and is easier to finish although paper tape lays flatter.

Plaster Walls: Made of a mixture of lime, sand and water that is applied as a liquid paste to the ceilings and interior walls of a home and dries to a smooth, hard surface. In older homes it was used with lath construction (thin strips of wood) that provides the foundation for the plaster and is called plaster lath.

Plaster Patch: Best substance to use for patching plaster walls. This product comes in a powder form and has to be mixed with water. It’s good to add Plaster of Paris to the dry plaster to reduce shrinking in large holes. Primer: A coating put on surfaces prior to painting that helps ensure adhesion and better paint durability.

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Score: The process of cutting drywall carefully in order to achieve a particular goal, such as during repair; in some cases the drywall board is “scored” (cut smaller than the paper covering) during patching repairs.

Spackle or Durabond: Quick drying compounds used as a ffor small and medium size drywall repair jobs.

iller

equires gle.

ri Sodium Phosphate (TSP): Cleaning agent and degreaser that is often

iluted

Toggle Bolt: A larger bolt mechanism used for hanging heavy objects that rdrilling a hole large enough for a large bolt and the T-shaped, spring action togThe toggle crosses the bolt and provides leverage against the back of the wall.

Trecommended for heavy duty cleaning jobs (like cleaning walls before painting). The TSP today is much weaker than it was in the ‘70s and is dwith synthetic substances, but it is still powerful, causing eye damage and burnson unprotected skin.

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Tools for Wall Repair & Painting

rushes: Bigger is not necessarily better. A 4” or 5” brush is sufficient for even large

Used to widen small cracks in a V shape for better joint compound

Measuring Tape: Use your 25’ metal locking tape from

e: Smaller flat edge tool used for scraping or applying plaster and

and Paper: Variety of ‘grits’ used for sanding wood, drywall or other material to a smooth

: A wider putty knife used not only for scraping but for applying mud when

wel: Used when applying, smoothing or feathering mud in big

Bjobs. They are made of either synthetic or natural fibers

File:adhesion.

your tool kit to measure and mark drywall that has to be cut for repairs.

Putty Knifjoint compound during small wall repair jobs. Sfinish. Coarse is between 12 & 40; medium is 60 to 80; fine is over 100.

Scraperlarge holes are repaired.

Trodrywall jobs.

Utility Knife: Razor blade knife used to cut drywall.

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Wall Repair and Painting Processes Even if you have a brand new home you will eventually have to repair walls; wrestling matches,

e

loors and ceilings may separate from the walls over time as well, which will cause a hairline

you own a home that was built in or before the 1950s your walls are probably plaster-lath ade

hichever substance your walls are made of you will have the best outcome if you prepare the

• Begin your work with a clean, dust free surface. Clean off dust as it appears so as to ensure

Patch cracks and holes before painting. Always wait the required amount of drying time.

Scrape and sand bumps left after applying mud so you have a smooth surface. It may not

Use primer so that the paint doesn’t soak through or peel off later.

playing ball in the house or moving furniture to build tents in the living room necessitates an occasional wall repair project. Keep in mind that new and older homes shift and settle over timtoo, causing nails to pop through or cracks to appear in the drywall. Additionally, your decoratingtastes may change and a new color or fresh coat of paint might be just what your home needs to spruce it up. Fcrack or worse. Caulking stretches or wears out and needs to be replaced. Paint becomes dingyover time. Work is inevitable when you own a home. If(unless it has gone through major renovation). Walls built during or after the ‘50s are usually mof drywall (also known as wallboard or sheetrock). Drywall in the bathroom is known as greenboard and is designed to be more water and mildew resistant than regular drywall. Wwalls in advance of doing any work. Things to remember include:

a smooth surface when priming and painting.

• •

look too bad unfinished, but the blemishes are obvious once you paint.

•

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Repairing Nail Pops

er, screwdriver, drywall nails or screws, putty knife, joint compound or

First countersink the nail by hitting a hammer on a

ecurely fastening it to the under

Tools and material: Hammspackle, 150 grit sandpaper, goggles, face mask, brush, primer and paint.

large screwdriver positioned over the nail. You may use only the hammer but the hole to be patched will be larger. Be careful not to hit too hard, just hard enough where there’s a slight depression in the wall.

Next, re-secure the drywall by sb

lying wall studs. You can do this y driving one or two new drywall nails into the wall stud close to the existing nail pop. These new

nails will help hold the drywall securely to the stud and should stop the movement that caused the pop. Set these nails slightly below the surface of the drywall, using a nail set or a screwdriver, and be sure to hit the wall stud. You can also use drywall screws, which may hold better than nails.

ud. Smooth away the extra using a feathering motion, going over it as few Fill the hole with mtimes as possible for an even look. Let dry for 24 hours (or the required time on the label) and sand with a light grit sandpaper. Prime before painting.

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Know which type of wall you have ~ drywall or plaster. It is best to use plaster patch when both.

Make the crack slightly larger by scraping along the side to form a V

t.

et the crack with water using a spray bottle or clean paint brush. This

pply the mud, feathering the excess away. Let it dry for 24 hours (or the

and the area until it’s smooth with the wall. Prime and paint.

Filling Cracks

repairing plaster walls and joint compound or spackle for drywall. Durabond works well for

shape. This provides a ledge for the mud to adhere to. Remove the dus Wwill help the patch to stick.

Arecommended time). You may need another coat; if so, apply and wait another 24 hours.

S

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Repairing Holes in Drywall Using a Drywall Patch

First, clean and square the hole. Measure it. Cut a piece of drywall two inches larger on every side. If the hole is 3” X 4cut the patch 7” X 8”. It’s best to use a piece of drywall from the middle of a sheet, not from the factory edge.

”,

center piece of gypsum

n your clean and dust free surface, apply a thin coat of drywall mud to the

ut a little mud on your 6 inch putty knife and pass the lubricated knife

ow that the paper is secured from the back, apply joint compound to the

ou’ll need a second coat for sure, and you may want to use a larger knife

efore attempting the third coat, sand the excess dried mud and bumps with

t

nce it’s nice and smooth you’re ready to prime and paint.

Have the back side (dark paper) facing up and measure it to find the center of the patch. Measure the hole size in the middle of the patch just a 1/4” smaller on each side than the actual hole. The result will be 2 ¼ inches marked all the way around the back from the edge. Cut the drywall carefully from the back so as not to pierce the front side. Bend the drywall toward the front. Carefully peel the gypsum away from the paper front. Do this all the way around until just the

nearly the size of the hole is left attached to the paper backing. Oarea surrounding the hole. Attach the paper to it and press the paper with your fingertips (don’t press the plug). Pacross the paper to remove excees mud from under the paper. Use only amoderate amount of pressure as too much will cause the paper to ripple.

You only need a couple of passes.

Nfront of the paper in a feather coating motion. Let dry. Y(perhaps 10”) unless it’s easier for you to use the smaller one. Ba 100 grit sanding block. Remember: Less Is More when it comes to ’s easier to add another coat than to sand off the results of too much.

applying more mud. I

O

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Repairing Drywall using wood backing This kind of repair works well for ceilings and for larger repairs. You’ll need a cordless drill, drywall tape, and wood that’s already cut or a wood cutting saw. Clean and square off the hole. Remove the dust. You first have to have strips of 1” or 2” thick wood that is at least 2” longer than the opening. Pre-drill a couple of screws into the drywall just above the hole. Maneuver the strips of wood into the hole, being careful to hold on so they don’t fall down behind the wall.

Position a strip behind the drywall screws and drill ~ you will have to hold on tight to the wood because the drill will be pushing it away until it grabs. Repeat this with the other strip.

Measure and cut the drywall repair piece, just a fraction of an inch smaller than the hole. Place in the hole and drill to attach to the wood strips behind it.

Tape the area around the patch with either paper or mesh tape. Apply a thin layer of mud to the wall, then the tape, then a little more mud.

Plan to apply a few thin coats of mud and sand between applications to avoid more work later. Prime and paint, then show all your family how talented you are!

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Repairing a Hole in a Plaster Wall

Sometimes there’s enough material (concrete, lath, etc) behind the hole to begin layering the patching plaster without any preliminary steps. If this is the case, apply thin layers of plaster, allowing adequate drying time between applications.

Other times there’s just a hole in the wall. If this is the case, remove the loose plaster and even out the hole.

Cut a piece of wire mesh screen larger than the hole and put a piece of wire (I used a stripped twist tie) thru the middle of the mesh. Leave it long enough to extend thru the hole and to be tied to a pencil or chop stick. Push the mesh through the hole and stretch it over the opening. Tie on the stick and twist it until the mesh fits snugly.

Mix up the patching plaster (don’t forget to add plaster of paris to reduce shrinking and cracking). Use a brush or spray bottle to wet the edge of the hole and apply the patching plaster.

You will want to do multiple layers to get a good smooth finish. Be sure to wait for the area to dry before adding additional layers and as always, sand between layers.

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Preparing to Paint Brushes Paint brushes come in a variety of shapes such as angular, flat, and oval, and size ranges from one to six inches wide.

Brushes that are angled are great for surfaces that have angles, narrow surfaces or for hard to reach areas, and are excellent choices as an all-purpose brush. Flat and oval brushes can be used on all surfaces but are best suited for flat surfaces such as wide trim, doors and cutting-in walls or ceilings. Determining which paint brush is best for your project is based on the surface to be painted and the type of paint or finish. Your comfort is also important!

One to two inch brushes are a good choice for small surfaces such as touch-up, trim, moldings and window sashes.

Two to three inch brushes work great for general cutting in of walls as well as exterior trim. Four to six inch brushes are for large areas such as following behind a paint sprayer or applying stain to a deck floor.

Brushes are made of fibers that are natural, synthetic or a combination of the two.

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Nylon brushes are stiffer and are good for rough surfaces.

Polyester brushes hold more paint and are good for smooth surfaces using water base clear wood finishes.

Natural bristles are made from animal hair and hold their shape better in oil based paints and finishes. This brush is made from ox hair.

Certain brushes work better with different paints as you will see in the chart below:

Type of Paint, Varnish or Stain

Recommended Brush

Water Based Paints and Primers

Nylon is best when the paint is thick because it’s stiff; use a softer synthetic brush for doors and trim

Oil Based Paints, Enamels and Primers

Natural black bristled China brushes are stiff and thick to hold more of this kind of paint

Water Based Clear Wood Finishes and Stains

Synthetic polyester is best, be sure to use a soft one for these thin finishes

Oil Based Clear Wood Finishes and Stains

Natural white bristled China brushes are good due to their softness, but watch out for the cheap ones

Shellac Primers and Clear Finishes

Natural ox hair is the perfect varnish brush because it is the softest and leaves the best finish

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Rollers Rollers provide good, even coverage when painting. There are specific purpose rollers available for edging and corners, as well as texturizing covers for special effect painting. Shorter naps are good for flat walls and longer naps are used on masonry or other bumpy surfaces.

Select the roller cover based on the paint being used as well as the surface being covered. Mohair is good for interior walls painted with latex; lambs wool is good for oil based and alkyd (synthetic oil based) paints. Just like brushes, there are the cheap kinds and brands with more quality. You will have a better finish and easier application if you purchase quality material. However, you will want to clean them after using for reuse later because they are expensive. Painting and Rolling Procedures – Interior

Cover the floor and furniture and tape off fixtures and trim. If walls are peeling or cracked, be sure to do the repair before painting.

Ensure that the walls are clean and dust free. If necessary, clean the surface with TSP to remove dirt and grease. For mold and mildew, use the solution 4 parts water, 1 part TSP and ½ part bleach. It’s a good idea to always apply primer before painting. This will help promote even coverage, no previous color bleed-through and the paint will stick better. Follow the painting procedures below when applying primer.

Mix the paint well. It was probably mixed at the store where you purchased it but mix it again anyway. That way you’ll be sure the pigment is a uniform color throughout.

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You will use your brush first. Dip the brush about 1/3 of the way up the brush. Wipe off one side and apply the primer or paint to the corners and cut along the trim and ceiling (if it’s a different color).

If you’re painting the ceiling too, start with that first.

When using a roller, roll it slowly into the deeper end of the tray and move it back and forth over the ridges on the slanted part to remove the excess paint. Always use a V or W stroke when first applying paint with rollers, then finish with up and down strokes. Move at a slow steady pace in order to avoid paint specks flying through the air.

Exterior Painting Never use interior paint on the exterior of your home ~ it wont stick around for long! You may need to scrape before painting and you also may need to caulk around windows and door frames. You will want to have a plan to clean up paint chips; this is especially important to do if your home was built before 1978. That paint likely contains lead and safe practices will help you avoid lead hazards around your home. Clean the areas you are planning to paint and let dry (if you use water). Sometimes it’s enough to just sweep the area, but if it’s dirty, wash it. Remove all gutters and downspouts, trim away grass and weeds that may be close to the area you’re painting. Cover all plants and shrubs and tape off areas where you don’t want paint to splash. Apply the paint following the same procedures as the one you used for the interior, painting corners and along the trim first. People usually work from left to right and top to bottom, unless they are left handed; then it makes more sense to work from right to left and top to bottom.

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LEAD HAZARDS IN THE HOME Lead has long been recognized as a harmful environmental pollutant. In fact it is considered one of the major environmental threats to the health of children in the United States. There are many ways in which humans are exposed to lead: through air, drinking water, food, contaminated soil, deteriorating paint, and dust. Airborne lead enters the body when an individual breathes or swallows lead particles or dust once it has settled. Before it was known how harmful lead could be, it was used in paint, gasoline, water pipes, and many other products. Old lead-based paint is the most significant source of lead exposure today. Most homes built before 1960 contain heavily leaded paint, and some homes built as recently as 1978 may also contain lead paint. This paint could be on window frames, walls, the outside of homes, or other surfaces. Harmful exposures to lead can be created when lead-based paint is improperly removed from surfaces by dry scraping, sanding, or open-flame burning. Health Effects of Exposure to Lead Lead affects practically all systems within the body. At high levels it can cause convulsions, coma, and even death. Lower levels of lead can adversely affect the brain, central nervous system, blood cells, and kidneys. The effects of lead exposure on fetuses and young children can be severe. They include delays in physical and mental development, lower IQ levels, shortened attention spans, and increased behavioral problems. Fetuses, infants, and children are more vulnerable to lead exposure than adults since lead is more easily absorbed into growing bodies, and the tissues of small children are more sensitive to the damaging effects of lead. Children may have higher exposures since they are more likely to get lead dust on their hands and then put their fingers or other lead-contaminated objects into their mouths. Local health clinics and doctor offices are available to perform a simple blood test to check a child’s exposure to lead. It is important to have your child tested, especially if you live in an older home. Ways to Reduce Exposure to Lead

1. Separate remodeling areas from living areas: It is important to keep the remodeling work, and dust associated with the work, separated from other areas in the home.

2. Keep areas where children play as dust-free and clean as possible: Mop floors and

wipe window ledges and chewable surfaces such as cribs with a solution of powdered automatic dishwasher detergent in warm water. (Dishwasher detergents are recommended because of their high content of phosphate.) Most multi-purpose cleaners will not remove lead in ordinary dust. Wash toys and stuffed animals regularly. Make sure that children wash their hands before meals, nap time, and bedtime. These practices are important at all times and especially during remodeling work.

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3. Reduce the risk from lead-based paint: As mentioned above, most homes built before 1960 contain heavily leaded paint, and some homes built as recently as 1978 may also contain lead paint. This paint could be on window frames, walls, the outside of homes, or other surfaces. Do not burn painted wood since it may contain lead. Leave lead-based paint undisturbed if it is in good condition - do not sand paint that may contain lead. Lead paint in good condition is usually not a problem except in places where painted surfaces rub against each other and create dust (for example, opening a window).

4. Do not remove lead paint yourself: Individuals have been poisoned by scraping or

sanding lead paint because these activities generate large amounts of lead dust. Occupants, especially children and pregnant women, should leave the building that’s being remodeled until all work is finished and clean-up is done.

5. Do not bring lead dust into the home: During remodeling, avoid tracking dust from the

work area throughout the rest of the home. It is also important to avoid bringing lead in from other sources. If you work in construction, demolition, painting, with batteries, in a radiator repair shop or lead factory, or your hobby involves lead, you may unknowingly bring lead into your home on your hands or clothes. If you work with lead in your job or a hobby, change your clothes before you go home and wash these clothes separately.

6. Soil may contain lead: You may be tracking in lead from soil around your home. Soil by

roads and highways may be contaminated from years of exhaust fumes from cars and trucks that used leaded gas. Use door mats to wipe your feet before entering the home. Encourage your children to play in sand and grassy areas instead of dirt which sticks to fingers and toys. Try to keep your children from eating dirt, and make sure they wash their hands when they come inside.

7. Find out about lead in drinking water: Well and city water does not usually contain lead.

Water usually picks up lead inside the home from household plumbing that is made with lead materials. The only way to know if there is lead in drinking water is to have it tested. Contact the local health department to check about water testing.

8. Make sure your child takes vitamins and eats nutritious meals: A child who gets

enough iron and calcium will absorb less lead. Iron rich foods include eggs, red meats, and beans. Dairy products are high in calcium. Do not store food or liquid in lead crystal glassware or imported or old pottery. If you reuse old plastic bags to store or carry food, keep the printing on the outside of the bag.

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PLUMBING & FURNACES

Michigan State Housing Development Authority Links to Homeownership

Home Maintenance Series

Plumbing and Furnaces Class Outline

1. Spend time reviewing plumbing terms ~ have aerators, faucets, toilet parts/toilets, waterheaters, furnaces, etc available for class participants to see, touch and examine whilereferencing their uses.

2. Review the home plumbing system on page 8.

3. Describe tool list for each repair listed. Have participants name and handle actual tools afterreviewing the pictures in the manual.

4. Discuss plumbing concerns or problems typically encountered in older homes. Review manualpictures, ask participants to share stories of situations they’ve experienced or heard about.

5. Practice changing a leaking faucet, showerhead, toilet, etc.

6. Increase participants understanding of water heaters.

7. Discuss regular maintenance of a furnace.

8. Review energy efficient ways to maintain heating and cooling systems.

Learning Objectives:

Class participants will have knowledge in the following areas:

Terminology used in plumbing

Minor plumbing repairs

Plumbing system intake and outflow

Water heaters

Furnace maintenance

Plumbing and Furnace Terms & Tools to Know

Aerator: A device attached to the end of a faucet that controls flow to reducesplashing. This is the first place to look if you have low pressure from the tap.

Air Cushion: short vertical sections of pipe designed to cushion the shock when the water is turned onor off. If there is no air cushion, or the air cushion has become filled with water, a loud banging soundcan be heard after you shut off the water or flush.

Backwater Valve: Sewer line valve that prevents sewage from flowing back into thehouse

Ballcock: The supply valve that controls the flow of water from the water supply line into a toilettank. It is controlled by a float mechanism that floats in the tank water. When the toilet is flushed, thefloat drops and opens the ballcock, releasing water into the tank. As the water in the tank is restored,the float rises and shuts off the ballcock when the tank is full.

Basin Wrench: A wrench with a long handle with jaws mounted on a swivel thatallows the jaws to reach and handle nuts to fasten faucets to an installed sink.

Bushing: A pipe fitting used to join two pipes of different sizes. A bushing isthreaded inside and out. Also known as a Fitting or a Reducer.

Cleanout: A plugged access to a trap or drain pipe that providesentry for the purpose of clearing an obstruction.

Closet Auger: A flexible rod with a curved end used to access the toilet’sbuilt-in trap and remove clogs. Another version of this is a plumber’s snakethat may or may not have a swivel end. Professionals sometimes use anelectric version that can extend much further than either of these tools.

Drain Valve: Device designed to allow drainage of stored contents from awater heater.

Element: Heating Unit in an electric water heater.

Furnace Filter: A framed mesh rectangular screen inserted between the cold airintake and the furnace motor designed to keep dirt and dust out of the fan motor.

Flapper Valve: The part on the bottom of the toilet tank that opensto allow water to flow from the tank into the bowl.

Galvanized Plumbing: Steel pipes used as supply lines in older homes. These pipes corrode and overtime will require replacement, especially where unions between galvanized and copper meet. Thebuild up from these pipes are often the cause of low water pressure in homes.

Gasket: Flat device usually made of fiber or rubber used to provide a watertight seal between metaljoints.

Hard Water: Natural water containing impurities in various proportions. Traditional hardness is ameasure of calcium or dissolved solids in a solution, measured in parts per million. If it’s hard to washthe soap off, the water is hard.

Outlet Sewer: Pipe section in a septic system which runs between the septic tank and the drainagefield

Overflow Hood: On a bath drain, the decorative hoodconcealing the overflow drain

Overflow Tube: The vertical tube that extends past the drainin a tub to connect with the drain, waste, vent system in thehome. This tube keeps bathtubs from overflowing when thedrain is plugged and water is filling.

PVC (Polyvinyl chloride): A rigid white or cream-coloredplastic pipe used in non-pressure systems, such as drainage,waste, and vent systems. The over-flow and drain mechanismto the left is made of PVC.

Pilot: A small gas flame at the end of a tube,used to ignite the main burner on a gas water heateror furnace. The tube next to the pilot is theThermocouple.

Pipe Dope: Slang for pipe-joint compound. Substance applied to threaded fittings to create awatertight seal. Threaded means you can screw it together with another part.

Pop-up Assembly: The top of the drain system;, includes a mechanism that is ofteninstalled on a bathroom sink. The drain stopper “pops” up and down when pressed.

Pressure Tank: Device used to pump water from a well.

Reducer: A fitting that connects pipes of different sizes together, aka “bushing”.

Relief Valve: A valve that opens to relieve excess temperature or pressure.

Sediment: The substance that settles on the bottom of a water tank. Also known as lime.

Service Entrance: Pipe connecting the water company piping to the watermeter.

Sewer Gas: Gases, esp. methane, which may be combustible and poisonous from the decay of organicmaterials in the sewer system. Traps in your plumbing prevent sewer gas from rising out of sinks anddrains.

Tap Water: Water supplied by either a water company or a well by way of the home’s plumbingsystem.

Teflon Tape: A fluorocarbon polymer with non-sticking properties used to wrap pipe threads to seal ajoint

Thermocouple: Small heat sensor that assists in the electronic ignition of furnaces and water heaters(see picture of water heater parts above)

Trap: Curved section of drain line that prevents sewer odors from escaping into the atmosphere. Allfixtures that have drains must at minimum have a “P” trap installed. A toilet is usually the onlyplumbing fixture with an “S” trap

S Trap P Trap

Valve: A device that regulates the flow of water

Valve Seat: The non-moving part of a valve. Water flow is stopped when the moveable portion of thevalve comes in contact with the valve seat.

Vent: A pipe that allows air into a drain system to balance the air pressure, preventing water in thetraps from being siphoned off and sewer gas to be kept out of the home.

Vent Stack: Upper portion of the soil stack above the topmost vent through which gases and odorsescape.

Water Hammer: A loud banging noise caused by the hydraulic shock of suddenly shutting off awater supply, where water moves against the side of containing pipe or vessel. Shock absorbers can beinstalled to reduce or eliminate water hammer.

A Home’s Plumbing System

Your home plumbing system is made up of an incoming water service line, outgoing drain pipes,fixtures and appliances. Fixtures include toilets, sinks, tubs, and showers. Appliances includewashing machines, dishwashers, garbage disposals and water heaters.

Fresh water into the home is pressurized and carries water to each fixture and appliance using pipesthat are between 3/8 and 1 inch.

The drain, waste and vent (DWV) system is separate from the fresh water supply and uses pipes thatare between 1 ¼ to 4 inches in diameter. Close to each fixture is a drain trap, either U or S shaped, thatcontains water that acts as a seal to keep bacteria, gases and rodents from coming into the home.

Vents, sometimes known as soil stacks, of the DWV system extends upward thru the roof. Revents areadditional venting that connects to main vents (see diagram). Air cushions are sometimes originallyinstalled or added later at the end of long pipe runs to help stop water hammer noises.

Every DWV system contains plugged openings called cleanouts. These provide access to the inside ofthe DWV system for removal of any blockage.

Faucet Types ~ Four Main Kinds

Write the name of the faucet part on the line drawn to it:

Stem Faucet:

Stem holderWasherThreadValve seatHandlePacking nutSpoutSpindlePackingStem washer

Cartridge Faucet

Cartridge stemO ringSpoutBodyLever coverCartridgeRetainer ringAeratorLever

Disc Faucet

SpoutCylinderBaseHandleSealWater inletAeratorBonnet

Ball Type Faucet

Ball assemblyAeratorO ringWasherHandleSpoutValve seatsBonnetPacking retainerSpringsBody

Kitchen Sinks

This one has a garbage disposal ~ can you name the other parts?

Rubber gasket Supply tube Compression coupling Single handle faucetSpout assembly Spray hose Clean out Spray headShut off valve Tail piece Supply tube Lock nutTrap Strainer body Lever Hot & cold supply linesTrap coupling Garbage disposal Strainer coupling

Repairing a Leaky Faucet:

Tools you will need: Replacement parts, depending on faucet type, plus the following:

Screwdriver Slip joint pliers Penetrating oil Adjustable wrench

First, turn off the water supply to the faucet either by the shut offs under the sink or by the main watershut off for the entire house, usually located in the basement where the water pipe enters the home.This will usually be on the street side in the city, or nearest to the well in the country.

Open the faucet and let the water in the pipes drain out.

Put a towel in the bottom of the sink. Faucets have small parts and you don’t want to lose one downthe drain.

Remove the faucet handle. Handles are attached with a screw often hidden under a decorative cap thatcan be pried off with a small screwdriver or butter knife. You may need to oil the parts to remove.

Remove the inner parts of the faucet and determine what kind of repair is required: line the parts up inthe order that you take them out to help you remember how to replace them.

If your faucet has a single handle you are working with a “washerless faucet”. This will have acartridge, a ball or a disc that controls the water flow (see illustrations above).If you faucet hasseparate handle for hot and cold water you are probably have a compression faucet that has a washeron the end to stop leaks. Sometimes dual handle faucets can also have disc or cartridge mechanisms.

The easiest way to replace parts is to open up the faucet and take the interior parts to a plumbingsupply or hardware store. Have a knowledgeable salesperson help you find replacement parts.

When working with chrome and brass fixtures, make sure you protect the surfaces from tools that canscratch and scuff the finish. Use a cloth around the fixture or put duct tape on the wrench teeth toprevent marring the surface.

Before you turn the water back on, remove the aerator from the faucet; otherwise it will clog up fromthe sediment in the lines or the valve stems. Turn on the water and let it run for a few minutes to flushout all the sediment. Replace the aerator.

Temporary Leaking Pipe Repair

You can slow down a leak to prevent water damage until aplumber can do the complete repair. These steps are for atemporary fix, not a long-term solution.

Tighten a threaded joint with a pipe wrench if the leak is coming from the area where two pipes arejoined. If that doesn’t stop the leak, it may at least slow it down until the joint can be replaced.

Male threaded joint Female threaded joint

Plug a very small hole by sticking the tip of a sharp pencil in it. Break off the tip in the hole and coverthe hole with duct tape, wrapping it in several layers.

Alternatively, apply epoxy putty specially formulated for leaks caused by cracks or small holes.

Fix larger holes by clamping a piece of hose around the pipe. With a knife, cut a length of hose at least2 inches longer than the hole. (Rubber hose or even an old piece of garden hose will do.) You will alsoneed three hose clamps. Slit the hose lengthwise and fit it around the pipe, then clamp the hose inplace using a hose clamp at each end and one in the middle.

Discontinue use of the leaking plumbing or catch the spillage with a bucket until proper repairs can bemade.

If tightening a threaded joint doesn’t work, some older plumbing may require brazing or soldering.Unless you’re familiar with this technique, it should be left to professionals.

Be careful – old joints and pipes can be fragile and may break easily. Rough treatment couldpotentially make the problem worse. Know where the main water shut off is in the event of anemergency!

Toilet Guts

Below are two versions of the inner workings of a toilet. The first shows how to clear a drain using acloset auger. The second photo displays the inner workings of a toilet. Knowing the names of the partsof a toilet will be helpful when you have to make a repair.

Wax seal Trap

Tank lid Float ball

Shut off valve Waste pipe

Refill tube Trip lever

Overflow tube Flush handle

Ballcock supply valve Lift chain

Sewer stack Valve Seat

Cold water supply Flapper

Valve seat shaft Filler tube

Conical washer

Your Toilet’s Running…

Water constantly running in your toilet means money going down the drain. If you see water flowinginto the overflow tube when the toilet runs, the problem is in the filler tube. If water is leaking fromthe tank into the bowl, the problem is with the flush-flapper valve assembly.

First, check the float ball. If it is submerged more than halfway in the water, it is waterlogged andcan’t rise high enough to shut off the fill valve. Replace the ball.

Check the guide arm (attached to the float ball) to make sure it’s not catching on the inside of the tankor the overflow tube. If it is, straighten the guide arm.

If the float ball and guide arm are operating properly, adjust the water level by bending the guide armor turning the adjustment screws on the fill valve. Flush the toilet and recheck the water level. When itis adjusted correctly, the water level will be even with the fill line on the tank or overflow tube

You may need to service or replace the supply valve (aka ballcock). Turn off the water supply andflush.

On ball types, open the supply valve, rinse the parts and replace any worn seals. On plunger types, loosen the thumbscrews to slide out the float arm and lift out the plunger. On diaphragm types, remove the top screws. On float-cup types, remove the cap and push down on the top assembly as you unscrew it.

To replace a supply valve, sponge out the tank, remove the refill tube and thendisconnect the water-supply tube’s coupling nut and the mounting nut with channellock pliers. Reverse the procedure to install. Check the manufacturer’s instructions tolocate the supply valve’s critical level, which must be a minimum of 1 inch higherthan the top of the overflow tube. Most replacement ball cocks / supply valves areadjustable in height.

When Water Leaks from the Tank into the Bowl …

Clean the valve seat (the large opening between the tank and the bowl, covered with the flapper) withan abrasive pad and the flapper with a sponge. To replace a worn flapper, lift it off the lugs and hookon a new one.

To replace a valve seat first disconnect the water supply, remove thewater and use a screwdriver and pliers to remove the bolts that securethe tank to the bowl.

Turn the tank over to remove the conical (aka “spud”) washer. Use a wrench toremove the locking nut on the ball cock (supply valve).

Reverse the procedure to install new parts and to reinstall the tank and water supply.

Replacing a Wax Ring

Tools: Materials:Adjustable wrench Wax ringHack saw Toilet boltsPutty knife Plastic capsFlat edge screwdriver Silicone kitchen & bath sealerPlunger Old rags and towelsCaulk gun Newspaper

Water leaking from the base of your toilet can go from being a small problem to a really huge one ifyou let it go for any period of time. It should take a couple hours to fix it; you should count on needinghelp with lifting and resetting the toilet, as they can be heavy (70 pounds or so) and awkward ~especially when you have to set them down perfectly, aligning the hole over two small bolts.

First things first: now is a great time to give your toilet and surrounding area a good thoroughcleaning. There’s nothing worse than getting up close and personal with a dirty toilet!

Sometimes the brand and model number is stamped on the rim of the toilet near the tank or on thebottom of the tank. If you find it, take the information with you to a local hardware store or plumbingsupply house to purchase a replacement wax ring. Otherwise, talk to a knowledgeable sales person andexplain to him/her the kind of toilet you have (approximate age, etc).

Turn off the water to the toilet at the water supply shutoff. This is usually found on the wall or floornear the toilet. If there is no shutoff, use the main water shutoff for your home.

Flush the toilet a couple of times to drain most of the water, then plunge vigorously to remove as muchwater as possible. Use a sponge or rags to soak up the remaining water.

Disconnect the water supply tube from the bottom of the toilet, using a large pair of adjustable pliers.Have a bucket or towels ready because some water will drain from the tank.

Find the toilet mounting bolts on each side of the toilet base and remove thenuts. These often have decorative covers that can either be pulled off by handor gently pried up with a flat screwdriver. A bit of plumbers putty on themounting bolts will keep them in place until you get the toilet back on.

Old toilets may need to have the mounting bolts replaced due torusting. If this is the case you will need to cut the old bolts with ahacksaw and purchase replacements.

Lift the toilet straight up off themounting bolts and move it out of the way ~ tipped over is best. Save someclean up time by setting the toilet on old rags or newspapers because thebottom will be a mess and water will run all over.

Place an old rag in the sewer pipe (hole in the floor) to prevent fumes from entering the room.

In the hole where the toilet is mounted or on the toilet you should find ayellowish wax ring about 4 inches in diameter. Some brands have a plasticbase that will have model information on it.

Remove the ring ~ count on it sticking to the toilet base and to the flangeover the hole. You’ll need to tip the toilet over and scrape off wax with alarge screwdriver or putty knife to get the wax ring loose from the base.

Have lots of rags available to help with this ordeal.

Place the new ring on the toilet, being sure to point the tapered end so it will face downward into thewaste pipe. This is the hardest part: Replace the toilet over the existing ornew bolts and tighten those and the decorative caps.

Seal the new ring onto the flange by sitting on the toilet and very gently rocking in all directions. Thiswill flatten the wax to the base of the toilet.

Turn on the water and allow the toilet to fill. Flush and check for leaks.

Seal around the toilet with silicone to ensure a tighter fit between the toilet and floor (and to keep itcleaner too).

General toilet issues to consider:

Sometimes you might find two wax rings stacked on top of each other. This is usually found inolder homes where floors have been built up over time. You can purchase one ring that willmake up for the added height.

If the toilet still leaks, the problem may be more serious (such as a cracked toilet or damagedflange (mounting ring). These are problems probably best left to professionals.

Clogs in drains can often be removed by performing a rapid plunging action. DO NOT plunge after adding toxic chemicals to your drain! Sometimes you may need professional assistance to clear drains ~ roots can get into your

DVW system and cause problems. Call around for the best price and be sure to look forcoupons in mailers or in the phone book.

Leaking Shower Head

Tools needed: Teflon tape Crescent wrench Screwdriver

Materials: Plastic o-ring or rubber washer (depending on shower head type)Heavy cloth or duct tape

A constantly dripping showerhead doesn’t just waste water – it can drive you crazy.

When working with chrome or brass fixtures, protect the surfaces from tools with a heavy cloth orduct tape.

Unscrew the showerhead from the pipe coming out of the wall. This can be done by hand butsometimes requires a crescent wrench or large pliers. The head may be held on with a screw, whichyou’ll have to remove.

Look at the threads inside the showerhead where it screws into the pipe. There should be a smallwasher made of plastic or a rubber O-ring. Replace it if it looks even a little damaged or brittle.

Wrap the showerhead stem with Teflon tape or pipe sealer (pipe dope) to seal the connection.

Remount the showerhead on the stem. Don’t over tighten. Hand-tightening should suffice.

Turn the water on and off. Wait several minutes and check for drips or leaks. If the showerhead is stillleaking, you may have problems with the shower’s water-control valve and need to call an expert.

Repairing a Leaky Tub Faucet

Before proceeding be sure the water supply is turned off. Sometimes there’s anaccess panel behind the tub faucet area and if you’re lucky there will be shutoff’s there. Older homes may not have shut off valves near fixtures, so you’llhave to turn off the main water supply.

For Two Handle Tub Faucets:

Remove handles; using a small knife or screwdriver, carefully pry the trim cap off thetop of the handle. With a screwdriver remove the screw that holds the handle to thestem and remove the handle by pulling it. Slide the ring plate off the stem.

Remove the cartridge; use pliers or a specialty stem socket to remove the retaining nut. With pliers,grab the end of the cartridge and pull it out.

Replace the O-ring; you can roll the o-ring from the stem assembly. If it is stuck inplace use a screwdriver to get it free. Be careful not to cut the o-ring as you will needto use it to a match for its replacement.

For Single Handle Tub Faucets:

Using a small screwdriver remove the retaining screw in the base of the handle and liftthe handle off. Next unscrew the cap, either by hand or using a pair of adjustable plierswith the ends wrapped in a heavy tape.

Remove the Cam, Seal and Ball; lift out the cam, seal and ball and inspect them. Youshould replace any damaged or worn parts.

Replace Valve Seats and Springs; using needle nose pliers or the end of a narrow screwdriver, removethe rubber sets and springs. Pay attention to how they are positioned before they are removed sothe replacements can be installed in the same manner. Failing to install the new springs and seatscorrectly will cause trouble putting it back together (big hint) or causes the faucet to work improperlybigger hint!).

Replace O-Rings; twist the spout and lift it off of the stem. You can roll the o-rings from the stemassembly. If they are stuck in place use a screwdriver to get them free. Be careful not to cut the o-ringsas you will need to use them to match for replacements.

Before installing the new o-ring, coat it with petroleum jelly and then roll it onto the assembly.Reassemble the faucet and test for leaks.

Water Heaters

Standard 40 Gallon Water Heater On Demand Tankless Water Heater

Your water heater is powered by either gas or electricity. Energy efficiency is greater with gas, andnewer units tend to use less energy than older models. Some units made more than 10 years ago mayhave pieces of sediment flake off and get into the hot water pipes. This may require cleaning faucetaerators more often than in homes with newer water heaters.

Routine maintenance on tank water heaters will extend its life. Check the pressure relief valveannually. In Michigan it is required that the relief valve has a pipe that extends from it to six inchesfrom the floor. Put a bucket under the pipe to catch three or four gallons of water from the tank. If youhave hard water it may be necessary to do this more often.

Tankless heaters have pros and cons, just like everything else. They can supply an endless supply ofhot water, and can save energy. However, they are limited in the amount of hot water that can beproduced at one time and they are more expensive to purchase than a conventional storage type waterheater. It may also take longer for you to get your hot water, since they don't start heating the wateruntil you turn on the faucet, meaning more water usage.

Check the pipes and the exhaust stack on gas water heaters to ensure that all connections are free ofrust and corrosion and that they are secure. Light and blowout a match near the exhaust stack to see if there is adequatedraft present to remove the vented gases. Make sure nothingis close to or blocking the exhaust pipe or the door leading tothe pilot on a gas heater. Consider purchasing a carbonmonoxide detector to further ensure your family’s safety.

Maintaining Your Furnace

Did you know that between 40 and 50% of your home utility cost is spent on heating and cooling yourhome?

Heating and cooling systems also emit carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxides in the air,which contributes to global warming and acid rain. Carbon monoxide inhibits human blood frombringing oxygen to cells, tissues and organs. Sulfur dioxide is a major contributor to acid rain;Nitrogen oxide is the main ingredient in smog while at the same time damages the ozone.

Energy efficiency in heating and cooling is not only good for our finances it also helps theenvironment, our health and that of our children and grandbabies.

Tools Needed: Screwdriver (maybe)Furnace FilterVacuum or Shop VacHousehold Oil for Bearings (if you have an older furnace)

The first step is to turn off the power and the gas. There should be a switch near the furnace, if not,check the electrical service panel and shut off the appropriate breaker. The gas line will be connectedto the furnace in a black pipe and will have a shut off valve nearby. Turn the valve so it isperpendicular, or making a “t” shape, to the gas line to shut it off. Note that the gas to the furnacepictured above is on because the valve is parallel to the gas line.

Open the furnace door ~ you may need a screwdriver to help get it opened so you don’t break a nail orcut your hand on a sharp edge. With a vacuum having a long hose attachment or a shop vac, vacuumout the base of the furnace and the gas burners. Get all the crevices cleaned of any loose dust or debris.

Locate the furnace filter. Depending on the furnace design, it can either be located in the blower doorunit itself or located between the blower and the return air duct. You may need a screwdriver to helppry open the access panel or blower door.

Remove the filter and inspect. If it is a paper or fiberglass filter and is dirty, replace it ~ note the sizeindicated on the side of the filter. If the filter is a dry foam type filter you can wash it out or vacuum itclean.

If the filter needs replacement, use the same size filter as the one in the furnace. Notice the arrow onthe frame that shows the direction of the air flow for the filter. The arrow should point toward thefurnace because the air comes from the cold air duct thru the filter and to the furnace to be warmed.

Check the fan belt on your furnace that drives the blower. Inspect the belt for cracking or fraying. Ifthese signs are evident the belt needs to be replaced Also check the belt tension. By pushing down inthe center of the belt, it should feel taut and only deflect about 1/2" - 3/4". If it deflects more than that,tighten the belt by loosening the attachment bracket. Then move the motor assembly so the belttightens and hold the motor assembly in place while maintaining tension on the belt. Tighten theattachment bracket.

If your furnace is older or if it has a motor without permanently sealed bearings, the bearings will needto be oiled. Find the oiling caps. They may also be on the bearing shaft. Drop a few drops oflightweight household oil in the oil spout below the caps. Don't over oil.

Once completed, replace the furnace cover and turn the electrical power back on along with the gas.Relight the pilot if necessary.

Here are some ideas for increasing the energy efficiencyof your home heating and cooling system:

Clean or replace filters on furnaces once a month or as recommended by the manufacturer. Have allheating units cleaned and inspected yearly by a certified professional.

Set your thermostat as low as you can in the winter for heating and (if you have air conditioning) ashigh as you can in the summer for cooling. Consider purchasing a programmable thermostat to helpwith decreasing energy costs.

Use ventilating fans wisely; these fans can pull out a houseful of warmed or cooled air in only onehour.

Clean heat ducts at least once each year to promote healthy indoor air.

Remove trapped air from hot-water radiators by bleeding them once or twice during heating season; ifin doubt about how to perform this task, call a professional and watch it being done the first time.

Place heat-resistant radiator reflectors between exterior walls and the radiators so as to minimize theheat that escapes thru the walls.

If you use a wood burning stove or furnace, try to avoid using anything other than split and seasonedwood (cut for six months or more). It burns hotter thereby providing more heat, and emits lesspollution in the air.

Vacuum out registers, baseboard heaters, and radiators regularly. Don’t block the vents by furniture,carpeting, or drapes because the air has to move around to be efficient.

Keep draperies and shades open on south-facing windows during the heating season to allow sunlightto enter and thereby warm your home. Keep them closed when the sun is hottest in the summer.

Close off unused areas of your home by shutting the door and closing the heat vent to the area (unlessdoing so will damage the rest of your system, ie when heating with a heat pump).

When you are considering a new heating system purchase, choose one that is energy efficient. Afurnace contractor will be able to help you know the energy consumption of each model you’reconsidering. Energy fact sheets are required on all models to help you compare energy usage and coststo operate.

Consider a water heater blanket to help keep the water in the tank warm.

Weatherize your home using expanding foam in cracks and weather strips around doors and windows.Air infiltration (gaps and leaks) causes excessive energy usage.

ELECTRICAL REPAIRSAND

ENERGY CONSERVATION

Michigan State Housing Development Authority Links to Homeownership

Home Maintenance Series

Electrical Repairs and Energy Conservation Class Outline

1. Spend time reviewing electrical terms ~ have outlets, switches, fuses, electrical wire,ground wire, and junction boxes available for class participants to see, touch andexamine while referencing their uses.

2. Review how electricity flows through a home. Show real life examples of electricalwires entering a building; look at a meter and breaker, explain the breaker or fusesystem. Review pictures in manual.

3. Describe tool list. Have participants name and handle actual tools after reviewing thepictures in the manual.

4. Discuss electrical concerns or problems typically encountered in older homes. Reviewmanual pictures, ask participants to share stories of situations they’ve experienced orheard about.

5. Explain the process of labeling the breaker box.

6. Practice wiring an outlet.

7. Practice changing a switch.

8. Review energy conservation tips; discuss how energy conservation relates to successfulhome ownership.

Learning Objectives:

Upon completion, participants will have knowledge in the following areas:

Commonly used electrical terminology

How the electrical system works

Tools used in electrical repairs

How to do minor electrical repairs

Energy saving tips

Electrical Terms to Know

Amps (Amperage) – A measurement of electricity. The higher the number of amps the moreelectricity you have available to you.

Circuit – Refers to wiring that runs from the electrical panel to a series of outlets or fixturesetc. Each fuse or breaker controls one circuit, and many outlets or switches can be on onecircuit.

Doubled Up Conductors – A conductor is a wire that conveys energy. “Doubled up” refers tothe wiring of two or more circuits to one fuse or breaker; this is possibly a code violation.

Fuse – A safety device with a metal strip that connectstwo parts of a circuit. When the strip breaks or meltsthe connection is broken and electricity will not flowthru the circuit.

Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI or GFCI) - These units are installed onexterior outlets, or in areas within six feet of a water source (bathroom or kitchensink) near the outlet. GFI units are designed to protect people from electrocutionfrom hazards by automatically turning off electricity when a problem is detected.There are two types available; one replaces a standard circuit breaker with aspecial GFI circuit breaker. The other is a GFI protected outlet that takes theplace of a regular outlet. When installed, this outlet will also protect all the

outlets from there on down the circuit.

Ground wire – Electrical systems must be grounded to provide a safe service. The ground actsas a safety device in case of a short circuit. It takes electricity out of the system sending it toground, which is a copper rod hammered into the ground beside your home.

Grounded Outlets – These outlets are distinguishable by their three-holepattern. On this type of outlet the ground hole is wired to the groundsystem in the home. Use an outlet tester to be sure the outlet isgrounded; not all three holed duplexes are properly grounded.

Junction Box – Holds the electrical wires that are connected together on acircuit, providing an organized way keep the connections out of sight, aswell as to prevent them from unwanted tampering.

Knob and Tube Wiring – Old style of wiring recognizable byporcelain knobs that hold the single strands of wire and the tubes thatinsulate the wires as they pass through rafters or floor joists. In somecases this wiring is acceptable but it prevents proper insulation of theattic space. An evaluation by an electrician is stronglyrecommended if this type of wiring is present.

Load Center or Service Panel – The fuse board or breaker box thatdistributes the incoming electrical power via the various circuits in the home.

Mast - The steel pole that holds the electrical wires that comes into a home, running from theweather head to the meter.

Meter – An device that measures the amount of energy that is supplied toa home or business.

Neon Tester – An electric lamp connected to two wire leads, used todetermine the presence or absence of electric voltage running thru

Over Fused (Over Loaded) Circuit – A circuit for the fuse or breaker where the amperage istoo high for the wiring. This is a dangerous condition!

Open Ground – This means that the outlet does not have a properly attached ground wirewhen there is a hole for a grounded plug. This condition needs repair.

Open Junction Box – Electrical junction box without a cover (see diagram above). Alljunction boxes must have a cover.

Overhead Service – Where the incoming electrical service is aboveground.

Reversed Polarity – This means that the hot and the neutral wires have been reversed,noticeable in outlets by testing.

Romex – Wire that is the standard used inside homes today.It is off-white or yellow in color and has a plastic exterior.15 amp circuits use white wire, 20 amp circuits use yellow.

Short Circuit – Result of the hot and neutral wires being crossed; may be due to improperwiring, a wet appliance etc. This will cause a GCFI to shut down.

Voltage – Most electrical accessories in the home use 110 volts. Voltage is like horsepower; itis a measure of the electricity’s strength. Large appliances, i.e. stoves, electric clothes dryers,central air, hot tubs use the larger 220 volts.

Underground Service – This is where the incoming electrical supply for a home is buriedunderground.

Ungrounded Outlets – Older style outlet that only accepts two-pronged plugs. These outletsdo not have a ground wire. While they are acceptable in homes with older type wiring, they arenot as safe as grounded outlets.

U-Guard – A gray plastic shield that protects electric wires on the side of ahouse or pole.

Volt – A unit of electrical force, similar to water pressure, that causes the electricity to movethru a circuit. The higher the voltage the more dangerous the exposed wires.

Watts – The unit of electrical power commonly used to define the electricity consumption ofan appliance.

Weather Head – The top of the steel pole mounted on the home to whichthe incoming overhead electrical supply is attached.

How Your Home Electrical System Works

A home’s electrical system includes the incoming power lines, electric meter, main electricpanel, household wiring, electrical boxes, outlets, switches, fixtures and the appliances that areoperated with electricity. Other electrical systems in a house include communications wiringfor doorbells, telephones and security systems.

WARNING:ELECTRICITY CAN KILL YOU.

IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE MAKING A REPAIR, CALL APROFESSIONAL.

Tools needed for electrical repairs

Needle-nose pliers Insulated screwdrivers Combination tool

Utility knife Keyhole saw Neon circuit tester

Electrical tape Wire connectors Outlet tester

General Rules About Minor Electrical Repairs You Can Do

Doing electrical repairs is really quite easy if you play it safe…

ALWAYS TURN OFF THE POWER BEFORE WORKING WITH ELECTRICITY!!

Pay close attention to the way the existing outlet or switch is wired and reconnect the newdevice in the same manner. This is especially true when working in older homes.

Houses built before 1950 may not have color coded wiring, so you have to label the wiresaccording to which screw it attaches to, then follow the same connection when you attach thenew switch or outlet.

Check the junction boxes in your home to be sure there is a cover plate over each one. It issafer to have all connecting wires in these boxes covered.

You can make the wiring in your basement look neater by tacking up loose wires to the floorjoists. BE VERY CAREFUL that the wires are on the inside of the tack that you use so as toavoid piercing the wire with the sharp edge of the tack.

The following page has some examples of electrical problems to pay attention to…

Unprotected wire connections that need junction boxes!

An old fuse box

A scary breaker box!

Labeling your Electric Panel

This is a two person job - the “Wanderer” will roam around the home with an electricalappliance such as a small lamp and the “Stander” who will stay at the electric panel, switchingon breakers or turning fuses, with a pen and paper.

Prepare in advance by having a light switched on in every room (as available).

The Stander begins by turning off the power to each circuit (breaker switched off or fuseturned completely), but leaving the main switch on. Then she begins turning on one switch at atime.

The Wanderer will look for the room or rooms where the light is on. He will test all theswitches and outlets in that room to see if the are wired on the same circuit. Often this is thecase, and sometimes multiple rooms (like bedrooms and living rooms) are wired on the samecircuit. However, outlets that service a window air conditioner should have its own circuit.

When the Wanderer finds an outlet or switch that doesn’t seem to be powered, he should put apiece of tape on it to remind himself to check later when another circuit is turned on.

The Stander will hear from the Wanderer which areas are powered when each circuit is turnedon and will write down the corresponding information. It is recommended that the informationis first written on paper then later transferred as labels on the box.

Each fuse should be numbered (after the main) beginning with number 1 at the top left , 2 atthe top right, 3 under number 1, 4 under number 2 and so on.

The kitchen, bath and utility room may be supplied with electricity from multiple circuits. Highwattage appliances in the kitchen, such as the dishwasher, garbage disposal, refrigerator andmicrowave should be on separate circuits.

Safety First!

Double check that the power is off by using your neon or circuit testereach time you do electrical repairs.

Switching a Two Prong Outlet to a GFCI

This repair will help you have a safer alternative to an older model two prong outlet.

First, turn off the electrical supply to the outlet at your panel by unscrewing the fuse or turningoff the breaker that services that outlet. Remove the cover plate.

Next, test the outlet with your neon circuit tester to ensure there is no electricity flowing to theoutlet. If there’s no light on your tester you’re safe.

Remove the two small screws that hold the outlet to the box. Gently pull the outlet, beingcareful not to break the old wires. Then remove the two wires that are screwed to the side ofthe outlet.

Make sure there’s enough room for the new GFCI in the space you have. If there’s not enoughroom you may have to replace the box. This involves purchasing a larger box, cutting a largerhole using your keyhole saw, gently removing old wires and running them through a new box.

If there existing box works, find the two terminals on the GFCI that are labeled “line” (thereare two other terminals labeled “load” which are for running additional outlets off the samecircuit). Attach the white wire to the silver “line” screw and the black wire to the brass coloredscrew. The wires should curve around the screw in a clockwise position so that when youtighten the screw the wire wraps around it. Cover the perimeter of the GFCI with electrical tape(around the wires).

Gently fold the wires back into the box and attach the outlet to it. Turn on the power to theoutlet. Before testing be sure the reset button is pushed in. Then use your outlet tester to test forpower at the outlet.

Replace the cover plate. There should also be a little sticker with the GFI that says “no ground”or something similar. Place that on the GFI to alert people that this outlet is not grounded.

WARNING: NO GROUND

You have now greatly improved the safety of this electrical outlet by installing the GFI. Eventhough it is not a grounded outlet, the GFI will protect against shocks.

Replacing a Light Switch

Regular household light switch

Make sure that the problem is the switch by changing the light bulb with one that you knowworks. Also check the electrical panel to ensure the fuse or breaker isn’t blown. If all thatchecks out, the problem is probably in the switch, which wears out over time.

Turn off the fuse or breaker that services the switch. Often the panel is labeled indicating thearea of the home that is serviced by each breaker or fuse. If this is not done in your home,going through the process should be on your list of things to do (see labeling process above).

Determine the kind of switch you need. If only one switch controls the electricity then youneed a regular switch. If two switches control the same fixture, you’ll need a three way switch.

Three way switch

Remove the cover plate from the wall; then remove the two screws that hold the switch in thebox.

Use your neon tester to ensure there is no power to the switch. Touch the prongs to the wiresthat wrap around the screws, then turn the tester around and double check the opposite wires. Ifthere’s no light on your tester, you’re good.

Disconnect the wires from the switch and reconnect following the standard black wire (hotwire) on the brass screw and white wire (neutral wire) on the silver screw. Wrap electrical tapearound the screws for safety.

Gently fold the wires and screw the switch to the box then replace the face plate. Test and go!

Energy Conservation

Consider an energy audit. An assessment of how much energy your home uses will help youplan for future improvements you’d like to do. You can do this yourself with the help of an online tool at http://hes.lbl.gov/

Seal air leaks: use caulk, weather strip, insulation and expanding foam sealant. Warm airleaking into your home in the summer and out of your home in the winter wastes money.

The easiest and most cost efficient way to insulate is to add insulation in the attic and inunfinished basement areas.

If possible, upgrade to more efficient windows and doors if yours only have single panes. Ifyou can’t afford new windows now, think about adding storm windows and storm doors. Also,plastic over windows in the winter helps.

Turn off everything not in use (lights, computers, TVs, etc).

Only heat and cool the rooms you need. Close vents and doors of unused rooms. Install aprogrammable thermostat that will adjust temperatures for you when you’re asleep or not athome.

Lower the temperature on the water heater to 120 degrees.

Use cold water for laundry and take 5 minute showers.

Use fans instead of air conditioning in the summer.

Change filters on furnaces and air conditioners monthly during high use times~ dirty filtersblock air, reduce efficiency, increase energy use and shortens the life of the equipment.

Dirty air filter Clean filter

In the summer keep window coverings over sunny areas and in the winter let the sun in.

When cooking keep lids on pots. Use glass pans in the oven for faster baking at lowertemperatures.

Install low flow showerheads and sink aerators to reduce water consumption.

There have been tax credits in 2006 and 2007 for purchasing and installing energy saving itemslike windows, furnaces, insulation and central air conditioners (as well as hybrid vehicles).Congress may extend these benefits in upcoming years, so take advantage of these breaks whenthey’re available.

Consider recycling. The earth will be a better place for it and energy will be saved for futuregenerations.

Recycle Logo Energy Star Logo No Energy Star Logo

If you’re purchasing new appliances and electronics they usually have rating labels on them. Ifan appliance has an Energy Star rating it will save you more money compared with those thatdo not.

Switching from traditional light bulbs to new LED or compact fluorescent light (CFL) bulbs isan energy saving option. One thing to remember is that CFL bulbs contain a small amount ofmercury (approximately 5 milligrams per bulb). Compare this amount to the mercury that wasused in the old style thermometers ~ that was about 500 milligrams. Even though it’s a smallamount, precaution should be taken when disposing burned out bulbs. LED bulbs contain nomercury, are even more energy efficient and result in greater savings. However, they are veryexpensive to purchase, and the savings will be realized over time through lower energy bills.

Compact Fluorescent Light LED Bulbs

LANDSCAPING

Michigan State Housing Development Authority Links to Homeownership

Home Maintenance Series

Landscaping Class Outline

1. Spend time reviewing landscaping terminology. Consider having a slide show or pictures available for class participants to observe.

2. Describe the hardiness zones and focus on the area that is where your class participants

live. Talk about the plants that work best in your area.

3. Have class members discuss pros and cons of planting and maintaining the plants listed as “easy” on page 8.

4. Review the process of caring for lawn mowers and garden tools. Having a lawn mower

available to look at will make this section much more understandable.

5. Discuss the process for working with a new lawn as appropriate for the class members.

6. The section on seasonal lawn care can be used as an opportunity for small group discussion and dialogue among the larger group.

7. Annuals, perennials and vegetables are discussed and examples are available for

reference.

Learning Objectives: Class participants will have knowledge in the following areas:

• Landscaping and Lawn Care Terminology • Equipment Care • Seasonal Lawn Care: Spring, Summer, Fall & Winter • Installing and Caring for a New Lawn • Planting and Caring for Annuals, Perennials, Fruits and Vegetables

1

Common Landscaping and Lawn Care Terms

Aerating lawns is done to help reduce compaction and help revitalize stressed lawns. Manual aerators may be used ~ they consist of a T bar that has hollow pipes which are plunged into the lawn to remove cores of soil. Mechanical aerators are also available to rent.

Annuals are plants that complete their life cycle in one year or less.

Biannuals are plants that take two years to complete the life cycle. Compaction encourages weed growth in lawns. If the ground is hard it needs to be aerated to promote a healthy green lawn. Once aerated manually and a good lawn is established it will stay that way by the birds and worms that work it.

Dead Heading means removing the faded flowers from a plant to keep it blooming (if it’s an annual) or to return strength to it if it’s a perennial.

Hardening Off is the process of getting plants that are grown from seeds indoors used to the weather and temperature change that happens outdoors.

Mulch is material, such as straw, grass clippings, chipped bark or wood, applied to the soil surface for protection or visual aesthetics. It helps prevent moisture loss, keeps plants cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, and may help control weeds if placed deeply enough.

Organic Lawn Care is a safe, responsible and effective alternative to pesticide, herbicide and chemical fertilizer use. It involves organic fertilization, a light application of compost, and a watering schedule that requires heavy soaking less frequently.

2

Perennials typically live for more than one season and some continue indefinitely. They usually take more than one season to mature and most live at least three years. Pay attention to sunlight and soil needs of perennials because they thrive better in some conditions than others.

pH stands for potential of Hydrogen. This is rated on a scale of 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. Below 7 means the soil is more acidic and above 7 means it’s more alkaline. Slightly acidic soil (approximately 6.5) is good for grass, but you may need it to be more acid for growing some plants.

Pruning is the process of cutting back trees, shrubs and plants to rejuvenate them and control the size and shape.

Snow mold is a common fungus that grows on grass when lots of snow covers unfrozen ground. It appears as circular straw colored patches and will continue to grow if left unattended. It’s not serious and is easily removed by raking and removing the thatch.

Pink Snow Mold Gray Snow Mold

oil Testing means taking a sample of your soil to the local MSU Extension office and having

Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs on the

atering should be done deeply, infrequently and in the morning to help create a

Sit checked for suitability for plants, grass and gardens. Doing this will help you know how best to plant grass and flowers or shrubs in your yard.

surface of the ground. Excessive thatch (over 1/2 inch thick) creates anenvironment for pests and disease, an unfavorable growing environmentfor grass roots, and can interfere with healthy lawns.

Wthe best and longest roots in your lawn. Consider harvesting rain water via rain barrel or by installing a mini rain garden. You will be helping to reduce water consumption, minimizing storm water run off, decreasing energy consumption, lowering your water bill, and you’ll be encouraging neighborhoodbeautification via gardening! ☺

3

Michigan USDA Hardiness Zones

one Ave. Annual *

mperatures ar veraged er many years as monitored by the

ZONE 3 RECOMMENDED PLANTS, TREES & SHRUBS

apan

Z Min. Temps 3b -35 to -30 4a -30 to -25 4b -25 to -20 5a -20 to -15 5b -15 to -10 6a -10 to -5 6b -5 to 0

These te e a*ovUS Department of Agriculture.

J ese bayberry Tatarian honeysuckle

Russian olive Siberian crabapple

ommon juniper n arborvitae

C America

4

ZONE 4 RECOMMENDED PLANTS, TREES & SHRUBS Sugar maple Panicle hydrangea

Chinese juniper Amur River privet

Virginia creeper Vanhoutte spirea

ZONE 5 RECOMMENDED PLANTS, TREES & SHRUBS Flowering dogwood Slender deutzia

Common Privet Boston Ivy

5

Zone 5, Continued: Japanese rose Japanese yew

ZONE 6 RECOMMENDED PLANTS, TREES & SHRUBS

panese maple Common boxwood Ja

Winter creeper English ivy

American holly California privet

6

Eight Easy Plants to Grow in Michigan The following list incorporates easy-care plants that can be combined into a low-maintenance approach. Adapt the suggested plants to your home and region as necessary. These plants are widely available; ir recommende DA Hardiness Zones a noted.

orean boxwood, zones 5 to 9 Weeping Norway spruce, zones 3 to 7

the d US re

K

Dwarf Japanese garden juniper, zones 5-9 Bird's nest spruce, zones 3 to 8

Climbing hydrangea, zones 4 to 9 Dwarf Serbian spruce, zones 4 to 8

Japanese holly, zones 5 to 9 Cinquefoil, zones 3 to 7

7

Caring for Your Lawn Mower & Garden Tools Clean or change the spark plug on your lawn mower before the first use in the spring. Here are pictures of the location of the spark plug, used and new plugs, as well as a spark plug wrenc cing the old plug.

h to help in removing and repla

To clean your lawn mower you’ll have to first empty the gas and oil, and be sure to respark plug wire for safety. Tip the mower on the side and use a scraper or a piece of

move the wood to

o e ut from around the blade. Hose it down, being careful not to gfilter and engine area.

get the grass t water in the air

A neighborhood hardware store will sharpen your mower blade if you don’t have a grinder. It

important to have a sharp blade so that the grass isn’t bent or pulled. Don’t turn the

reg

islawnmower over to take the blade off if there’s gas and oil in it; either take the mower into a

pair shop for removal, drain the gas and oil, or lift the mower up and plan to get under it (and et dirty). Also, don’t try to sharpen the blade while it’s on the mower.

changing the spark plug.

Lawn mowers have to be tuned up regularly and it’s really best to do this yearly. A tune up will prevent your arm from getting worn out from pulling the starter cord too much. A tune up consists of changing the oil, the air filter, and

8

Draining the gas and oil is also important and should be done at the end of the season. If you don’t know how to do this kind of maintenance consider hiring someone to do it or to show you how.

A small hose attaches between the gas tank and the carburetor. Release the clamp and drain the gas from the mower after your last cut into a clean coffee can. You can use the gas in your snow blower or funnel it into your car.

e removing the gasto turn the mowe

sits in your machines for the off season.

tip the mower over after removing the gas and sealing the gas cap (see above). WARNING:probably leak when you tip it

oke for a while.

a turkey baster to suck out the gas from the gas tank by cap. To be sure no left over gas will escape if you have r over, seal the gas cap with a plastic sandwich bag. No

You can also us

gas will run out if you tighten the cap completely. Instead of draining the gas you can also use a product called “Stabil” that conditions gas during the time it

You can empty the oil by unscrewing the drain hole plug from the bottom of the mower; alternately you can

A little oil will over, so the next time you

start the mower it will probably sm

Clean your pruning sheers, scissors, shovels and rakes after use to prevent rust.

9

Installing and Caring for a New Lawn Select a seed mixture that is right for the conditions of your lawn. Pay attention to the amount of sunlight and shade, the soil’s pH level and the amount of traffic that you expect on the lawn. The best time to seed a lawn is when temperatures ler and rainfall is more consistent. In

an this is usually in the arly spring an e early fall.

oosely packed soil will be a better germinating bed for seeds than soil at is hard or trampled.

lp keep the seeds in place

wn be wet when the sun goes down.

inate you can water more heavily and less frequently. After about ring to once a day. When the grass gets to four inches you

k

are coo e d in thMichig

Lth

A light straw mulch on top of the seeds will heand will help retain moisture for them.

Water the seeds frequently. Frequent light watering is best at first so that the seeds on’t float away. Try to water 3 times a day for the first 14 days, but don’t let the d

la Once the seeds begin to germsix weeks you can reduce your watecan cut it, but only ta e one inch off the top.

10

Seasonal Lawn Care Tips

The first thing you should do in the spring is rake your lawn. Even though

ere may not be a lot of leaves in your yard, raking will help control

grass seed to bare patches me to grow grass ~ the very best time is in the fall when grass seed

th friendly. You really don’t have to ore

g instead of using weed and feed. W eed products threaten human health and is

ds.

Spring

ththatch. Don’t just skim the surface, rake deeply so you can get the dead grass out and help lift the grass that has matted down. This process will also help remove snow mold which can inhibit new grass growth if left unattended.

if necessary. Spring is not the best Add sometidoesn’t have to compete with crabgrass for space. But you can add it if your bare spots are severe.

After the grass germinates add a light dusting of Milorganite. This is an organic nitrogen fertilizer that is earwait for germination and in fact can add grass seed to the product for a mwide spread application.

your lawn without chemicals. Strongly consider pulling weeds by hand eed and f

Consider weedin

especially harmful to children. Dogs and wildlife are in danger from these toxins. Water sources are also polluted by these chemicals. A healthy lawn will eventually choke out wee Try watering your lawn only once per week (if you haven’t had heavy rain). Allow your lawn

get near the draught stage (where the grass doesn’t spring back when walked on) and then tosoak it in the morning. This will help your grass work for the water that’s deeper and as a result develop long roots. Never water during the mid day because the sun will cause evaporation before the grass benefits. Light watering at night promotes grass disease and encourages shallow root growth.

11

Summer

e to water a bit more frequently, but follow the same plan (near draught condition en heavy soaking) for long term benefits. Watering in the early morning is best to encourage

Keep a check on dandelions and at the very least take off the top so e seeds in the flower don’t spread. The best thing to do to get rid of

r is good. The longer length helps the lawn hold moisture and discourages weeds.

If you have a serious weed problem, consider mowing twice as often as normal. A blade of grass is most sensitive near the soil. The

oil in the fall for the best results. Even if you only have a hand aerator that will e lawn breathe.

il by going to MSU Extension. 6.5 pH is good for grass and 7.5 is good r dandelions. If the pH is too high (alkaline) add gardeners sulfur to reduce the pH. If it is too

quate sunlight and air. If you have a ulching mower you can mulch the leaves. But keep in mind that some leaves are more acidic

enario is to have 12 inches or more of soil. Some of us only have a couple inches above clay, o

inter

You may havthabsorption into the ground and reduce the chance of disease and thatch.

ththem is to dig out the root (unless you’re considering the health benefits of eating dandelions!). in the summer ~ 3 ½ to 4 inchesCut the grass a bit highe

sensitive growing point for most weeds is near the top of the plant. When you mow it’s as if you are giving your grass a haircut andcutting the heads off of the weeds.

Fall Aerate the shelp th Check the pH in your sofoacidic add lime. Remember: all things in moderation! Fallen leaves create a matted condition and prohibit ademand could promote dandelion growth. Sometimes it’s best to break down and rake the leaves! If you are really unhappy with your lawn, fall is a great time to start over. The best case scrocks or sand. A couple truck loads of top soil mixed with a hefty amount of compost (twparts soil to 1 part compost) will give you an incredible base to plant new seeds. Trees should be planted in the fall for the very best results. W

12

Slowly begin to lower the height of your mower before the snow sets in. Do this over a few avoid shocking your lawn and causing turf damage.

paction.

res because they always tend to melt in Michigan.

Planting and Caring for Annuals, Pe

Planting Annuals

orful annuals from your local grower or garden center could cause and plant them. Slow down and think about this…

inds

Peonies

cuts so as to A final dose of organic fertilizer just before snow flies will help ensure a nice start the ollowing spring. f

Put away any lawn ornaments that will smother your grass and leave your lawn susceptible to iseases from comd

Build lots of snowmen and igloos throughout the winter. Be sure to takeictup

rennials and Vegetables

Purchasing a bunch of colou to want to rush home y

Many plants purchased from open air markets are ready for immediate planting. However, lants grown in a greenhouse need to get used to the environment. p

Try this: put the plants in their pots or cell packs outdoors in a spot sheltered from strong wnd direct sun. Water as needed. a

Move the sun-loving plants to a more exposed location every day or two and keep the plants hat like shade in the shade. t

Continue to water as needed, and bring them inside when frost is in the forecast. Below are photos and names of Michigan’s commonly used annual plants

mpatiens Marigolds I

13

Geraniums Pansies Petunia

When You are Ready to Plant Your Annuals … Water plants well. If you are putting annuals in an already established bed, loosen the soil where you’re planting.

If you are creating a new flower bed, till the soil first. Options include hand

ental. It can cause soil compaction, upset the balances of microorganisms, and cause layers of coarse

down. Rotary tilling (rototilling) is sufficient for most home gardens, as long as the plant debris accumulation is not out of hand. Rotary tilling mixes the upper

h To prevent stress or on an overcast day.

tly. Larger plants may require you to cut the bottom of the pot in an X shape and loosen the roots.

any circling roots. Plant the annuals at the same depth they were growing the pot in a staggering fashion. Avoid planting in rows.

o be overcrowded. Th When backfilling a planting hole, do it carefully and evenly to avoid large air pockets that can

amage roots.

digging with a spade or shovel or tilling pothe soil completely over has been found to be detrim

with a wer rotary tiller. Turning

organic material to be buried below the zone where insects and microbes break it

er than completely turning the soil over, and the effects are generally good.

ing out the plants, plant in the late afternoon when the sun is less intense

Gently slip the plants out of their pots; avoid pulling on the stems as this can damage the plants. Instead, tip the pot and squeeze the side gen

layers of soil rat

Carefully untanglein Don't space them to

d

close together; it may look good at first but as the plants mature, they'llere should be instructions about spacing in the pack.

14

Trench around each plant to keep water from running off.

ts generously and add a water-soluble plant food if desired.

ulch well, and make sure your annuals receive one inch of water each week. It is better to a

Perennials that work well in Michigan sun:

Water new plan Mdeeply soak the pl nts less often to help extend roots and plant life.

Black Eyed Susan Day Lilies Rose Iris

Yarrow Mum Butterfly Weed Daisy

Hostas Bleading Heart Cardinal Flowers

Perennials that work well in Michigan shade

15

Primrose Amsonia Lilly of the Valley

Planting Perennials In order to have a successful perennial garden you have to think about the area you are working with. Some perennials grow best in full sun; others thrive in shade (see above).

Next, eliminate weeds before setting ll all the weeds and wait a couple weeks before planting to ensu ng the area of weed growth. It’s best to take your time to be sure all weeds are

fore putting in your plants or you will be fighting the weeds while you’re growing the plants.

th. Most erennials are killed by being in a low lying area that holds too much water in the winter. Ten

soil with three or four inches of mulch provides a good bed for perennials.

moss, composted barks, leaf compost, mushroom compost, and composted manure.

Fbotherwise your plants may become spindly from too much overgrowth. Other perennials will grow very large and potentially take over your garden. These will have to be cut

plants. Pure you were successful in riddi

gone be

Perennials need well drained soil that holds enough moisture for good plant growpto twelve inches of

Bulbs grow best in full sun locations, at least six hours per day is recommended. If you’re planting bulbs in the fall that flower in the spring, wait until the soil temperature is below 60 degrees or they’ll begin to germinate.

Provide the correct combination of organic matter and fertilizer. There is a variety of organic matter that can be used depending on preference. Materials to consider include compost, peat

lowering perennials will spread due to pollination from irds, insects and the wind. It’s important to thin these out;

back or prunned so you can maintain order in your garden.

16

Planting Fruits and Vegetables In advance of planting…

Stake out an area that gets a minimum of six hours of sunlight. Till or turn

aterial based on soil pH and your bove).

lan your garden well in advance of planting season and decide how le you’d like to have. That way you can decide if

if you want an abundance or if you le of plants for a smaller amount of vegetables.

u rag your hose over the p

e

rganize your garden so that it makes sense. Perennial fruits and vegetables should be planted ont be bothered by tilling and spading next year. Vegetables that are

early producing should also be planted together.

the soil with a spade. Add organic mplanting plans (see soil testing info a

Pmuch of each vegetabyou want to start your seeds indoors will just purchase a coup Be sure to place yo r rows in the direction that makes the most sense – you don’t want to d

lants!

A few days before planting, hoe in a little vegetable fertilizinches of soil.

r to the top two

Ooff to one side so they w

17

Rotate plants each year so that different vegetables are in different locations. Give your garden break every few years and concentrate on replenishing the nutrients in the soil.

s it is necessary. The addition of lime or

gardeners sulfur when necessary should only be done very slowly and over time.

Water your garden thoroughly the day before you intend to plant.

Now you’re ready to plant!

ucumbers, pumpkins and melons.

u won't be walking across areas wYou don't want to be compacting the soil which you have worked so hard to fluff up.

our vegetable bedding plants in according to instructions on packages and tabs. Planso don't crowd too many plants into the allotted space. If yoend up with spindly plants that result in no food.

ach row or area so that you will know what to expect to row there.

oe regularly to remove weeds. Weeds rob your vegetables of water,

During dry periods, vegetable gardens need extra watering. Most vegetables benefit from an

Mulching between the rows will help to control weeds, conserve moisture in the soil, and will provide you with pathways to access your

is.

a Most vegetables grow best in slightly acidic soil (see reference to pH on page 4 above), so putlime in soil only if and MSU Extension tests show

Don’t forget to create trenches around the plants so that water is kept by the plant instead of running off.

Create mounds on which you will put in the vining plants such as c Establish your pathways early so that yo hich will be planted.

Sow your seeds and put in y

ting depths and spacing is critical, u do you will

Be sure to place a tag or marker on eg

Hlight and root space. Keep them pulled out regularly - get the entire root the first time and the job isn't too bad.

inch or more water each week, especially when they are fruiting.

plants. You can use grass clippings, straw, wood chips, or garden debr

18

Throughout the growing season watch out for insect pests.

e use pesticides in

our garden. Look up a natural or organic way to solve the problem.

scompost pile so that it

e be ore energy efficient. A well-designed landscape will: • Cut your summer and w• Protect your home from• Reduce consumption of water, pesticides, and fuel for lawn maintenance. • Help control noise and air pollution.

up to 25% of a household s energy consumption for heating and cooling. The U.S. Department of

$250 in energy costs annually. An 8-ple, costs about as much as an

ave your household e winter

and lighting costs. Landscaping can save you money in summer or winter.

n nts, trees and shrubs wquestions when yo Notice how the su d winter. Decide wh

s to be opened or blocked, as well as areas of noise or air ollution you wish to block. Also, figure out where landscaping height or width may be a

rth and northwest of the ome are the most common type of windbreak. Trees, bushes, and

Discovering a bug problem early will make it much easier to takappropriate action and eliminate the pests. Do not y Once you have harve ted your crop, put the spent plant and other vegetable matter into your

can be recycled into your garden again next spring.

HAPPY PLANTING!!

Landscaping for Energy Efficiency

ou may decide to design your landscaping and locate plants and trees to help your homYm

inter energy costs dramatically winter wind and summer sun.

Carefully positioned trees and shrubs can save

Energy predicts that the proper placement of only three trees will save an average household between $100 andfoot deciduous (leaf-shedding) tree, for examawning for one large window and can ultimately shundreds of dollars in reduced cooling costs, yet still admit somsunshine to reduce heating

Notice the areas i your yard that suffer from poor drainage and standing water. Some pla

ill not grow well in poorly drained areas; others will. Be sure to ask u go to purchase plants.

n angles toward your home and how the winds blow for both summer anich areas of your yard and home needing shade or wind protection.

Determine how you want viewpproblem, such as under utility lines or along sidewalks. Evergreen trees and shrubs planted to the no

19

h

shrubs are often planted together to block wind from ground level to the treetops. Or, evergretrees combined with a wall, fence, or earth berm (natural or man-made walls or raised

en areas of

il) can deflect or lift the wind over the home.

ou ap snow before it blows next to your

home. In addition to the more distant windbreaks, planting shrubs, bushes, s tha e

at least 1 foot of space areful not to plant re counting on

so If snow tends to drift in your area, plant low shrubs on the side where yneed a wind break. The shrubs will tr

and vines next to your house creates dead air spacein both winter and summer. Plant so there will bebetween full-grown plants and your home's wall. Be cevergreens too close to your home's south side if you awarmth from the winter sun.

t insulate your hom

20

STRUCTURALDOORS, WINDOWS & INSULATION

Michigan State Housing Development Authority Links to Homeownership

Home Maintenance Series

2

Structural Class Outline

1. Spend time reviewing the basic home tool kit. Discuss safety concerns. Talk about theimportance of purchasing good, quality tools.

2. Review the structural components of a home. Have the participants name each part of ahome’s structure.

3. Talk about preventative home maintenance. Explain how problem areas become worsewhen repairs are not done.

4. Review the home maintenance checklist. Use the pictures as an opportunity to discusshow problems can arise if home maintenance is not done regularly.

5. Discuss interior and exterior doors. Describe the process for changing door handles andlocks.

6. Describe the different kinds of windows that are available today. Have the class memberstalk about the condition of the windows in their home.

7. Talk about the advantages to adding insulation to various areas of the home. Describe thedifferent types of insulation available and determine which type works for differentprojects.

8. Communicate the issues surrounding household mold.

Learning Objectives:

Class participants will have knowledge in the following areas:

Basic tools needed to do home repairs

The names and definitions of the parts of a house

Preventative maintenance

Doors & locks

Windows

Insulation

Household mold causes, treatments and prevention

3

Basic Home Tool Kit

For Safety’s Sake:

Work gloves are helpful for all kinds of home repairs andhome maintenance jobs. Consider keeping leather orcanvas as well as a pair of rubber gloves on hand.

Knee pads protect your knees and shins from aches and pains associated withbeing in one position for a long period, for use both in and outside the home.

Goggles are necessary to protect your eyes.

Dust masks will help protect your respiratory system.

Additional Items:

Caulk Gun & Caulk are used to fill joints, seems andcracks by filling them with a waterproof compound,usually acrylic or silicon.

Duct tape can be used as a quick fix around the house, to hold somethingin place until it can be repaired properly.

4

Flashlight with enough wattage to get around in the event of a power outageis important. Keep them in a standard place (drawer, cabinet, toolbox) so youcan find them when needed.

Ladders are handy and safer than stacking chairs or standing on tables. Sixfoot models with a fold-down stage for resting paint cans or buckets is agood idea.

Nails, screws and anchors of various lengths and types ~screws are preferable to nails if there’s a choice because theyprovide a tighter hold.

Bolts are made of metal, wood or plastic with threading that attaches to a nutto hold it securely in place.

Plungers, one specifically for the toilet and another for drains

Sandpaper, in varying degrees of “grit”, can be used for a variety ofsmoothing tasks on metal or wood. Higher grit means a finer finish; lower gritis used first for rough sanding.

Scissors, the heavy duty type, will help with the standard cutting chores.

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Super glue and other adhesives are good reinforcement, usedalone or along with items joined by screws or nails.

String can provide reinforcement or may be used to help determine size orlength of an odd-shaped project.

Tape Measure, at least 25 feet long, should also have a retractable featureand a lock button to hold it in place while extended.

WD40 or 3-in-1 oil helps eliminate squeaks or withloosening rusted on parts. NOTE: Neither should be used onball bearings; instead use sewing machine oil.

Tools:

A Cordless or electric drill is a great tool that savesa lot of time and energy. Cordless gives more controlover the speed and an 18 volt system will get mostany job done around the home. The 3/8 inch size isthe most versatile for at home jobs. You’ll needassorted drill and screwdriver bits.

A Hammer, with a curved claw, should be approximately 16 ouncesmade of drop forged steel.

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A Level will help to ensure straight lines ~ a 12 inch model should be

sufficient but longer ones are more accurate.

Pipe Wrench is adjustable and is used for turning metal pipes and fittingsthat have rounded surfaces. They range in size from 10 to 48 inches.

Pliers come in different sizes and kinds. Consider purchasing three kinds ~ aneedle nose, a blunt nose and a slip joint model.

Putty knives range in sizes from narrow to wide – it’s best to have a couple ofvarying sizes to apply paste or perform light scraping tasks.

Saws are used to cut wood or other material and havea serrated blade, and work by hand or by power. Ahack saw is an inexpensive way to get manyhousehold jobs that require cutting metal; a hand saw cuts wood.

Screwdrivers can be purchased in packages with various sizes of Phillipshead and flat head tips. It’s a good idea to get a few different sizes of each.

Staplers and staple guns are great for a variety oftacking tasks.

Utility knives have razor type blades that can be flipped over once you weardown one side. Metal models are best for heavy duty use.

Wrenches come in many sizes ~ a ten inch adjustable one will meetmost household needs.

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Terminology: Your Home Structure

From the list on the next pages, write the name of the structural house partindicated above

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Footings – made of cement, this is what the house sits on. The depth is determined by the heightof the basement walls (if any) or are placed below the frost line (in Michigan, 42” or deeper).

Foundation – made of poured cement, cinder blocks or in older homes rocks and mortar. On theoutside it’s important to have the dirt slope away from the foundation so that water does not poolnext to it.

Sill Plate – treated wood that lies on top of the foundation.

Rim Joist – attaches to the sill at a 90 degree angle around the perimeter.

Floor Joist – horizontal boards set 16” (on center) apart and attaches to the rim joist. Theseboards provide support for the floor above.

Bridging – pieces of wood between the joists that provide more strength and could help preventsqueaky floors. Forms an “X” pattern between the joists.

Girder or Main Support Beam – usually placed near the center, or in larger homes, multiplegirders spaced appropriately to provide adequate support, depending on the type and size of floorjoist used.

Sub Floor – the structural material, usually OSB that spans across the floor joists and provides abase for the finished flooring (if appropriate) or for the underlayment if necessary before theflooring.

Double Plate – the horizontal framing board at the top of the wall that attaches to the studs andto the ceiling or the rafters.

Stud – a vertical framing board used to construct walls, usually 16” apart.

Window Sill – the horizontal board that sits on top of the studs under the window (where deadflies collect!)

Header – the horizontal wood on top of a window, door or other opening where the structuralload is carried.

Sheathing – a layer of boards that cover the studs in preparation for the outer covering.

Drywall [NOT SHOWN IN PICTURE] – material made of gypsum that covers the studs andceiling boards to give a smooth surface for finishing.

Siding [NOT SHOWN IN PICTURE] - the covering of an outside wall, made of wood, brick,vinyl or aluminum.

Ceiling Joist – parallel boards used to support ceiling loads.

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Tie Beam – the main beam that spans from one wall to the other.

Rafter – the sloping boards that extend from the tie beam to the double plate and hold the roofsheathing.

Note: Ceiling Joists, Tie Beams and Rafters used today are often pre-engineered “Trusses”.

Tar Paper [NOT SHOWN IN PICTURE] - heavy duty rolled material applied before shingles.

Shingles – material installed over roof sheathing that protects the boards from water seepage.

Ridge – the top rim of the roof.

Soffit – underneath the overhanging part of the roof

Vent – an opening that allows air to pass from the attic to the outdoors. A continuous ridge ventextends across the length of the roof.

Gutter – an elongated metal, vinyl or plastic system installed on the outer edge of the roof thatcatches the water running off the roof.

Downspout – part of the gutter system that helps keep water from pooling close to thefoundation.

Preventative Home Maintenance

Why do regular home maintenance?

To maintain the value of the property and build equity. A well-maintained home usually sells more readily and usually brings a higher price. A well-maintained house is more comfortable. Regular care minimizes unexpected repair work and expense. Regular small repairs keep costs from becoming larger. A lender's agreement usually requires the owner to maintain the property to protect the

lender's financial interest.

How often are maintenance and repairs done?

Maintenance and repairs should be done as soon as the need arises. Quick repairs help prevent further damage and keeps repair costs down. Plan to inspect your house and yard thoroughly to identify items needing work once

every six months.

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Home Maintenance Checklist

Foundations, Basements, Outdoors

Keep yard clean and free from trash, junk and clutter. Check with your localmunicipality to find out when they have beautification days that include freetrash hauling or dumping.

Check masonry foundation walls for cracks or weakened, crumbling mortar.Small cracks quickly become big ones!

Be sure gutters and downspouts are kept open and in good repair.

Check wood joists, beams, and columns with a screwdriver or pocket knifeto be sure the wood is solid.

Check the inside and outside of all foundation walls and piers for termitetubes, saw dust and damage.

Examine main support beams, support columns, and floor joists for evidence of bowing orwarping.

Examine the inside of basement walls for dampness or water stainsindicating seepage or a leak.

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Doorways, below grade window wells, and storm drains should be cleaned of debris or leaves.

In Michigan water lines and outside faucets need some freeze protection or winterdrainage. In addition, garden hoses should be drained and stored for the winter.

Clean leaves and debris from around an outside heating vent or air conditioning unit and trimback shrubs that may block air movement around the house.

Trim shrubs and bushes away from the foundation walls. Clearance spaceshould be at least one foot.

Driveways and walks should be checked for cracks, breaks, or erosionthat may damage them. Unrepaired cracks in concrete can lead to furtherdamage.

Fences, gates, and retaining walls should be checked for ease of operation, condition of structure,and materials.

A septic tank and system needs periodic attention. Learn how to check for sludge and scumaccumulation in the tank, and have solids pumped out of the tank as needed.

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Exterior Walls, Windows and Doors

Check siding for loose or missing pieces, lifting or warping, or any sign ofmildew.

Check painted surfaces for paint failure (peeling, chipping, blistering,chalking), water damage, or mildew.

Examine all trim for tightness of fit, damage, or decay.

Make sure that all window and door locks work properly. Each exterior door should have a one-inch deadbolt lock for safety.

Check the windows for cracked or broken glass, loose putty (glaze) aroundthe glass panes, holes in screens, and evidence of moisture between paneand storm windows.

Check that windows and doors close properly. Examine all hardware on windows and doors, andlubricate moving parts.

Check weather stripping on windows and doors for damage and tightness of fit.

Check the condition of caulking where two different materials meet, such aswhere wood siding joins the foundation wall, at inside corners, and wherewindow and door trim meets the siding.

Check bricks or blocks for cracked mortar or loose joints.

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Roof

Trim back tree branches that scrape against or overhang the roof. Keep branches away fromchimney to avoid fire hazard and allow proper draft for safe and efficient chimney operation.

Check for curled, damaged, loose, or missing shingles.

Check the lower edge of roof sheathing for water damage.

Examine all roof flashing and the flashing around chimneys,vent stacks, roof edges, dormers, and skylights.

Make sure that the chimney cap is in good condition, and that it is tall enough to prevent creosotebuild-up.

Check vents and louvers for free air movement. Clean screens and remove bird nests, spiders,insects, and dust.

Clear gable vents of bird's nests and other obstructions.

Check for damaged gutters, downspouts, hangers, and strainers. If needed,clean out gutters and downspouts. Make sure they are free from leaks andrust.

Check the condition of paint on gutters, and look inside gutters for coloredgrit ~ this indicates deteriorating shingles.

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Interior Surfaces

You and your family maintain optimal health in a home that’s cleaned regularly.

Check caulking around sinks, bathtubs, and showers. Some types of caulkingbecome brittle with age, and therefore useless as a water seal. Replace with along-lasting resilient caulking material, such as silicone or latex.

Check for odor or visible evidence of mildew or mold. See section onhousehold mold and mildew.

Check all ceilings and walls for cracks, loose or failing plaster, signs of leaksor stains, dirt, and finish damage.

Check stairs for loose treads, handrails, or carpeting, and repair as needed.

Electrical Systems and Fixtures

Check the condition of lamp cords, extension cords, andplugs. Also examine the appliance cords and plugs ofvacuums, irons, mixers, washers, and dryers. If youexperience a slight tingling shock when handling orinspecting any appliance or lamp, disconnect the

appliance and repair or replace it.

Check for exposed wires and signs of wear in the service panel. If you have a fuse that blowsoften or a circuit breaker that trips frequently, call an electrician to determine the cause and makethe repair.

Check places where wiring is exposed, such as in the attic. Look for exposedwires and wires with cracked insulation. Replace those in poor condition.

If you have ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) in outlets near sinks,laundry, shop, and the garage check their operation. Always check them afteran electrical storm.

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Heating and Cooling Systems

Have heating and cooling systems checked by a qualified serviceperson once a year or accordingto the manufacturer's warranty and service recommendations. Failure to do manufacturer-recommended servicing may void warranties.

Clean or replace furnace filters. Check your owner's manual forrecommended procedures. Some filters should be replaced or cleaned asoften as once a month.

Clean dirt and dust from around furnaces, air grills, and ducts.

Regularly clean out fireplace ash pit.

Have the fire place or woodstove chimney checked each fall before you useit. A build up of creosote and soot can be very dangerous. If you use yourfireplace or woodstove regularly, a yearly cleaning is recommended. Seekhelp from professional fire fighters or chimney inspectors if you have anydoubt about the chimney safety.

Check the attic to be sure that insulation or other material is not blocking free air flow throughsoffit vents, gable vents, or other attic vents. If light from the outside shines through each ventinto a darkened attic, then the vents are clear.

Plumbing Systems

Check faucet and hose connections under sinksand toilets. Look for leaks at shut-off valves atsinks, toilets, laundry equipment, and mainwater shut-off valve.

Is the water pressure adequate? Check aerators for clogs.

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Do all the drains run freely? Check sinks, tubs, and showers for properdrainage. Remove hair from drains. When necessary, use a snake orplunger to unstop or increase the flow in drains. Sometimes roots in linesare the problem; that requires professional assistance.

In a basement or crawl space of your home, pull back floor insulation to check for leaks andwood damage around water supply pipes, drains, and water closet.

Check the pressure relief valve on the water heater. Open it to see that it isworking. Check for signs of leaking or rusting. Some manufacturersrecommend that a small amount of water (approximately 3 gallons) bedrained periodically from the tank.

Safety Systems

Keep flashlight(s) handy and in good operating condition.

Keep outside security lighting in good repair for safety andsecurity.

Test smoke alarm and carbon monoxide alarmsystems regularly. Replace old batteries.

Keep a fire extinguisher handy for use in kitchen and near any wood-burning stoveor fireplace. Check the extinguisher gauge for proper pressure.

Preventative Maintenance Summary

Regular inspection and maintenance of your home will help you keep the house in goodcondition and maintain its value. Doing maintenance and repair as the need arises also keepssmall problems from becoming bigger, more costly problems. Having and following a plan forhome maintenance and repair will make the job easier. And finally, a well-maintained house willbe more comfortable.

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Doors and Door Locks

Two types of doors: Interior and Exterior

Older homes often have solid wood doors for both interior and exterior;however, height, width and thickness are generally smaller on interior doors.

Newer homes should have a solid core (steel shell with fiberglass or foaminsulation injected) or solid wood exterior door.

The interior doors today are usually hollow core that have a plywoodveneer shell with a cardboard grid on the interior

Thinking about replacing exterior door locks? Think about this…

In residential construction there are basically two types of boltsused on exterior doors: latch bolts and deadbolts. Some lockscombine the two bolts into one. It is recommended that youinstall a deadbolt, as they provide more security.

There is a grading system that measures the security and durability of door locks. The AmericanNational Standards Institute (ANSI) has standards that comparatively measure the security anddurability performance of door locks. Not all Grade 1 locks are equal ~ stick with ANSI Grade 1to be safest in your home.

When you install locks be sure to have key control. Key control is simply controlling who hascopies of keys to your home. Many door keys can be copied at a local hardware or retail store.However, many manufacturers now offer locks using keys that cannot be copied except bycertain locksmiths or only by the manufacturer themselves.

There are burglaries where the unlawful entry can be traced back to a key that was eitherknowingly or unwittingly provided to the burglar. Key control can help protect you from thefollowing scenarios:

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Someone working for you has been fired or quit, but they made their own copy of yourhouse key.

Your kids or family members may have acquaintances who burglarize homes; they mighttry to acquire a key through them.

Mechanics may try to make copies of your house key while working on your car.

Key control may require extra effort, such as a letter to the lock manufacturer or a trip to thelocksmith to get a key made. Also, there is an additional cost due to record keeping by themanufacturer or locksmith (between $10 and $50 per key). The additional cost andinconvenience should be weighed against the security benefits.

Other Door Lock Features to Look For

Strike Plate – A strike plate comes with every door lock. Many times these strikeplates are cosmetic and not intended to provide much security. The strike plate’sattachment to the doorframe is usually the weakest point in the entire lock system.

High security strike plates are available. They sometimes come with a heavy gaugemetal reinforcing plate that mounts under the cosmetic strike plate and come with 3”long screws that secure the strike to the wall framing, not just to the doorframe jamb.

Staggered screws are a good idea. This way the screws don’t penetrate into the samegrain of wood. The concept of screwing into different wood grains in the doorframe andwall framing is to make it more difficult to split the wood doorframe or wall framingwhen the door is impacted. This feature should be considered at every exterior door andat those doors coming from attached garages.

Long screws and a long throw: Use long screws to attach the strike plate and have a minimumof one inch throw on the deadbolt. The throw of the deadbolt is the length that the deadboltextends out of the door edge. A longer throw makes it more difficult to gain entry by spreadingthe doorframe.

Anti-Drill Feature: Some intruders know how to drill out a lock. Manufacturers combat this byinstalling hardened steel chips within the lock housing. When the drill bit hits these steel chips, ittears up the drill bit.

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Windows

Types of windows:

Fixed-pane windows do not open, which means they do not permit ventilationor easy cleaning, but their sealed edges protect against air infiltration. Fixed-pane windows come in almost any size or shape and with single, double or tripleglazing. Glazing means adding layers of glass or plastic to increase energyefficiency. In Michigan double or triple glazing should be considered for fixed-pane windows, especially if they are large.

Casement windows (crank out) provide excellent ventilation because bothhalves of the window open. Because they seal tightly when closed, they areconsidered energy efficient. Another advantage of casements is they are easier toclean than most other windows because both inside and outside surfaces areaccessible from indoors.

Double-hung windows are probably the most common type of window. Theyopen by sliding the bottom half of the window up or sliding the top half down.Because only half of the window area can be open at one time, they provide lessventilation than casement style windows. An advantage of double-hung windowsis they can be used to create air movement in the home by opening the top portionof the windows on one side of the house and opening the lower portion of thewindows on the coolest side of the house. Air will naturally rise out of the higheropening, pulling cooler air in the lower opening.

Older double-hung windows have weight-and-pulley systems to make themeasier to open. Unfortunately, older systems may stick or rattle and it is hard tostop air from leaking around the pulley openings. Newer models have spring-tension devices and work far better.

Single-hung windows are similar in operation to double-hung windows, withthe exception that only the bottom sash opens.

It is usually recommended that you install double paned windows if youare doing a window replacement project. These consist of two panes of glassthat have air trapped in between them. The air space is generally three-quarters of an inch thick and this air acts as an insulator. It will increase thewindow’s ability to resist the penetration of heat from either side. Thiswindow is a slider type.

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Insulation

Your home will be more energy efficient if you have the right amount of insulation. Heat travels;it moves out of your home in the winter and into your home in the summer. Insulation reducesthe amount of heat flow and makes your home more comfortable.

If you’re thinking about adding insulation consider the following tips:

Look for the “R” value on the different types of insulation you’re considering. The Federal TradeCommission requires all insulation to be labeled with the amount of resistance it has to heatflow. The higher R value, the greater the insulation intensity.

In mid-Michigan R value recommendations are R 38 for ceilings, R 19 forexterior walls and R 22 for floors over unheated areas.

Batting insulation comes in precut lengths and blanket insulation is thecontinuous rolls. This kind is often used in unfinished walls and inattics.

Loose fill is used in attics and finished walls. This type can be poured frombags in attics or blown into finished walls with a machine.

Rigid insulation is used before installing siding on the exterior of a home or inbasements. It is usually made of Styrofoam and has good R value because it isthick and stiff.

Spray in insulation is considered to be superior because itexpands to fill and block air leaks.

Increasing your home’s insulation can help control the heat flow and reducethe possibilities of household mold. Read on for more information…

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Household Mold

Mold, also sometimes called mildew, is a living organism commonly known as afungus. Mold creates reproductive cells called spores that surround us in ourenvironment. Spores get into your home by attaching to people’s skin, clothing,shopping bags, shoes, on the fur of a pet and even through open windows. Onceinside, mold only needs moisture, warmth and food to grow.

Mold can grow and reproduces easily in damp areas ofyour home, especially those places where flooding orleaking has occurred. Houseplants also attract mold,especially if they are over watered. Mold and mildewalso grows in the bathtub, toilet, and on your dish drainrack in the kitchen if they are not cleaned regularly.

It only takes about 48 hours for mold to grow if conditions are moist andwarm enough. Areas where mold is commonly found include bathrooms,basements, around windows, behind wallpaper, under appliances and inclosets. If there is an area in your home that is humid or damp and containsitems that mold likes to eat, your home could develop a mold problem.

Some people experience no symptoms when exposed to mold; others haveallergic reactions to it, just like any other allergen such as pollen, dust or petdander. If mold is growing in your home, you will probably be able to smell it.Mold has a musty earthy odor. It is sometimes visible and can be many differentcolors, including black and white.

Sometimes you can’t see the mold because it is growing behind walls,under carpets or appliances or in other hidden areas. Mold growth iscommon in areas of a home that are damp or have had water damage. Ifyour home has had a flood, sewage, pipe, window and roof leaks, oroveractive humidifiers you might have mold.

Early detection of mold is very important. If you smell a musty or earthyodor, look for the source and remove it as soon as possible. The cost ofremoving mold may or may not be included in your insurance policy,but check it to be sure.

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Mold prevention requires minimizing or eliminating the moisture, warmth and food thatmold likes. Keep in mind the following tips for controlling mold growth in your home:

Regular cleaning is the most important factor inremoving sources of mold growth. Vacuum floors andclean bathrooms often. Pay attention to areas thatgenerate a lot of moisture.

Remove carpet from areas of your home that has a lot of moisture and dampness. Instead of wallto wall carpet in wet areas, use area rugs and wash them periodically.

Don’t store books, papers, clothes, board games or magazines in damp or humidareas of your home. Mold loves to grow on these food sources.

Repair roof, window, pipe, drain and any other leak as soon as possible.

Regularly clean under and around appliances, including stoves, refrigerators,water heaters, furnaces, washers and dryers.

Attics need to be properly insulated and ventilated.

Be sure that water is running away from your home’s exterior. Proper grading, landscaping andgutter/downspout placements are all important factors. You may need to extend downspouts orinstall rain barrels to catch and re-direct water to appropriate places in your yard!

Use exhaust fans or open windows in bathroomswhen the shower is running.

Make sure exhaust fans and clothes dryers are vented outside.

You may need a dehumidifier in the basement to reduce moisture onbasement walls.

If you have a crawlspace under your home, be sure to cover the soil with awaterproof plastic cover. Keep crawlspace vents closed in the summer andopened in the winter.

If you have water problems in your basement, clean it up quickly and resolve the water problemas soon as possible.

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Cleaning Up an Existing Mold Problem

Once you have stopped the water and humidity problems you can then remove the mold.Whenever you have to clean or handle moldy areas or items you should use the followingprecautions:

Wear protective gloves and eye goggles. Dress inlong sleeves and pants that are easy to removewhile you’re still in the work area so they can beput into bags for delivery to the closest washingmachine.

Use an N-95 respirator to help limit your exposure to mold spores,especially when cleaning up large areas.

Work only in ventilated areas, since the chemicals you’ll have to use aredangerous. Start with cleaning a small area to see how you react to either themold or to the chemicals you use. If you have a bad reaction, get someone to helpor hire a professional

Use a plastic sheet to separate the area you’re cleaning from other areas of your home tominimize the spores and mold contaminated dust from going into other areas. You may also wantto consider covering the heat and cool air venting system. Remove your shoes before walkingacross non contaminated areas.

Use detergent to clean most areas. You may also use four part water/one partchlorine bleach solution for areas that won’t be damaged or discolored by the bleach(test a small area to be sure). There are also products available in stores that arespecifically designed for use on mold, but these tend to be more costly than thoserecommended above.

Vacuum area with a HEPA filtered vacuum cleaner tominimize the spores that get into the air.

Place any molded articles for disposal, the vacuum filter and your cleaning rags in a sealedairtight plastic bag.

Immediately wash the clothing you wore for cleaning.