TomygrandmotherAlbertinaandmyfather,João,whotaughtmeaboutfoodandinspiredmetocook,settingmeonthe

paththatledtotheprofessionalkitchen.

ToClariseformakingtherissóisdecamarãothatawakenedmetohowamazingPortuguesefoodreallyis,andmademeembark

onthisjourneytocaptureLisbonandPortugal,firstinarestaurantandnowinabook.

TomybeautifulchildrenOrla,NoahandFinn,whoIlovemorethananythinginthisworld.Ihopetogiveyouthisgiftofloveand

passionforPortuguesefoodandformynativecity.

ContentsTheCityofLightCooks’Notes

PastriesSnacksLunch

SmallPlatesDinnerDesserts

Sandwiches

LisbonFoodStories

Gazetteer

RecipeList

LisbonFoodStories

1•Discoveries2•CaféCulture

3•Tascas4•Fish

5•BeachLife6•SantoAntónio

TheCityofLightLisbon. The city of light,where a luminous sunbounces its raysoffthe glittering River Tejo, dancing off shiny cobblestones, brightlypainted tiles and yellow-walled buildings. This iswhere Iwas born,andalthoughIpackedmybagsandsetouttotraveltheworldwhenIwas19yearsold,Lisbonisstillmyheart’shome.

Lisboa, touse thePortuguesename, is theoldestcity inwesternEurope.FromtheriverbankthecityclimbsnorthwardstotherampartsandturretsofCastelodeSãoJorge,aMoorishcitadelthatdatesbacktothemedievalage. Fromhere youcan lookdownupon redpantiled roofs andcupolaedchurches,acrosswideavenuesandgracefulsquares,andouttothePonte25 de Abril, a vastmetal suspension bridge that sweeps across the Tejo(TagusinEnglish)andouttothecoast.Formanydecades,Lisbonwasasleepingbeauty,alow-keycitythatfew

but travel aficionados could pinpoint on a map. Once architecturallyvibrant,manyofthebuildingsfellintocrumblingdeclineandgraffitigangsdidtheirworst.Therestaurantscenewasgoodandsolidbutithadlittletoofferthediscerningfood-lover.Butboyhowthingshavechanged,ataspeedthat’strulyincredibleand,

tome,reallyinvigorating.Inthelastsixorsevenyears,Lisbonhaswokenfromherslumber,shakenherselfdown,putonherbestdressandbecomeoneofthetopcitiesforvisitorsinEurope.Thecityisnowhometotalentedyoung chefs who have embraced their own food culture and openedfabulous littleeateries.Thetraditionalplaceshaveabsorbedsomeof thisyouthfulenergyanduppedtheirgame,andcompaniesoffergourmettoursthatencompassacorn-fedham,tastyfriedsnacksandlocallymadewine.Alongsidethisculinaryrevival,Lisbonisnowameccaforgeeksandtechiesembracingthedigitalnomadlifestyle.Artistshavecometoo,attractedbycheapworkspacesand,ofcourse,theamazingqualityofthelight.Peoplearefinallynoticingwhatafantasticplacethiscityis.These days, Lisbon is both hectic and calm, at once modern and old-

fashioned. It is embracing the future with a delicious kind of optimism,while carefully preserving its rich past. Yes, the infestation of tuk-tuks

racing around the streets is a pain, the roadworks and renovations seemnever-ending,andtheinfluxofvisitorsisputtingasqueezeonhousingforlocals,butdespiteallofthesehurtlingdevelopmentsLisbonis,tomyeyes,thebestlong-weekenddestinationthereis–notjustonthecontinent,butprobably in the world. There are wonderful galleries and museums, coolbars,amazingrestaurantsandchiccafés.Theriverfronthasbeenrevived,allowingyoutotakealongstrollalongtheTejowithstopshereandthereforaglassofwineoraginjinha(cherryliqueur)andapetisco(snack).Sinceit’s not very far from the sea, Lisbon is blessed with some of the bestseafood anywhere in Europe, and offers the lovely possibility of hangingoutbythebeacheventhoughyou’restayinginacity.AnddidImentionthebalmyweather?MildwintersandhotsummersmeanthatlifeinLisboncanbelivedlargelyoutside.A city of colour, Lisbon boasts hundreds of thousands of beautiful

azulejos(ceramictiles)adorningthewalls.Ilovetoseethecityawashwiththepurpleblossomsofthejacarandatreesthatlinethestreetsandpeppertheparks.My favouritedescriptionof thecitywaspenned in 1925by thePortuguesepoetFernandoPessoainhisguidebookLisboa:WhattheTouristShouldSee:‘Forthetravellerwhocomesinfromthesea,Lisbon,evenfromafar, rises likea fairvision inadream,clear-cutagainstabrightblueskywhichthesungladdenswithitsgold.Andthedomes,themonuments,theold castles jut up above the mass of houses, like far-off heralds of thisdelightfulseat,ofthisblessedregion.’Somesillymodernarchitecturehasgot in the way of Pessoa’s vision, but much of the glory remainsunchanged.A labyrinth of narrow streets, alleyways and steep, seemingly never-

endingstepsandvertiginous inclinesmakeup thecentreofcity.Wecallthis part of town Old Lisbon, its historic quarter made up of bairroshistóricos (historic neighbourhoods) such as Alfama, Chiado, Bairro Alto,Castelo,Mourariaandthelike.LegendhasitthatLisbonsitsonsevenhills(our travel card, the equivalent of London’s Oyster card, is called the 7Colinas),butwhoevercameupwiththatnumberclearlycouldn’tcountandmissedGraça,Lisbon’shighesthill,offthetraditionallist.Yellow trams, especially built to navigate the tight gauge and twisting

corners of Old Lisbon’s streets, were introduced here in the nineteenthcentury.Thesedaysyou’llbeluckytogetaseatonthemostfamoustram,the number 28, which traverses the city and takes in many of its best

sights. Ifyou’reafirst-timevisitorandcansqueezeon, it’sagoodwaytogetyourbearingsonyourfirstday.Personally,Iliketowalkandfindalittlebakery I didn’t know existed, a new café perhaps, or a tiny shop sellingfreshlymadesheep’smilkcheese.Iadoremycityinthemorning,whenittakestimetogetitselfgoing.Ifind

there’sacalmingpeace inwanderingtheemptystreetsafter I’vehadmyfirstcoffeeoftheday.It’sthenthatInoticelittledetails,suchashowtheblack-and-whitecalçadas(cobblestones),aresometimeslaidintheformofa ship, or very often in thepatternofwaves, floral designsor somethingaltogether abstract. The word lisboeta (leezhboEHtuh) literally means apersonfromLisbon,butitalsosumsupthelifestyle,thetraditionandtheemotion of belonging. Youmay have to be born in the city to truly be alisboeta,butanyonecanheartilyembracethesensibility.Therhythmofthedayrevolvesaroundmealtimes,andtherecipesinthis

bookarealsodividedintochaptersthatfollowtheculinaryclock.Thedaybeginswithacoffeeandapastel (pastry) in themorning, followeda littlelaterbysomesalgados(saltyfriedsnacks).Thenit’sontoalmoço(lunch),before tucking into a few petiscos (small plates) in the late afternoon.Jantar(dinner),neverreallybeginsuntil8o’clockand,becausewehaveasweettooth,weliketoendthatmealwithsobremesas(desserts).Andlet’snot forget our penchant for greedy late-night sandes (sandwiches) – inshellfishrestaurantssuchasRamiro,weevenendthemealwithaprego,asteak sandwich. The Portuguese love to eat and to share the experiencewith others; we’re happiest sitting round a table and eating with family,friends or new guests, passing around platters of goodness. If you findyourself invited intoa local’shome forameal youshouldbe in fora realtreat.My friend José Avillez has opened six restaurants during the relatively

short period of electrifying culinary revolution. His radical approach hashelpedturnthecityintoafoodie’sdelightandithaswonhimtwoMichelinstarsatthemostformalofhisplaces,Belcanto.AndréMagalhäes,anothergreat friend, has created Taberna da Rua das Flores, a tiny little tavernservingsomeofthemostinspiredandcreativecookinginthecity–there’salways a queueoutside the door.Other young guns have followed in thewake of these greats, taking Portuguese dishes to new heights. Thetradition of sharing petiscos has grown massively; once served only inhumble tascas, these small plates are now everywhere, with chefs

competing to attract diners with the best cod cakes or the most tenderprego.Ourfood,likemuchelseinourcity,isinfluencedbyLisbon’srichhistory.

Being part of a country that was first invaded and then created a vastempire of its own has led to a fruitful cross-pollination of flavours andcooking techniques in the kitchen. Taking its modern name from theoriginal Latin version, Olisipo, Lisbon was first settled by indigenousIberians. It then came to be occupied by a succession of Carthaginians,Romans,Suebi,VisigothsandMoorsuntil,afterafour-monthsiegein1147,the Moors were ousted and the city returned to Christian rule. Anothersiege,thistimein1384,sawitblockadedbytheCastilians.Duringthistimeitsinhabitantswerestarvingandhadnothingtoeatbutlettuces,whichisreflected in the nickname given to lisboetas by those from elsewhere inPortugal:alfacinhas(lettuceeaters).However,thesinglemostimportantperiodofourhistorywastheAgeof

Discovery in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when our quest forwealthandspices ledusoutacrosstheAtlanticOceantoconquer far-offlands. Sailors andmerchants returnedwith awealth of new ingredients,suchaspiripiri chilli peppers,cinnamon,blackpepper, cloves, tomatoesandmuchmore,thatwouldchangeourcookingforever. IbelievethattheenergyofPortuguesecookingtodaycomesfromthisadventurouspast.This remarkable period of exploration and trade resulted in Lisbon

becominganopulentcity, thewealthiest inEurope–butsadly, itdidnotlast.Notsoverylongago,PortugalwaswesternEurope’spoorestcountry.The event that pitched the city from rich to poor was a catastrophicearthquakethatstruckLisbononAllSaints’Dayin1755,whilemuchofthepopulationwerekneelinginprayeratchurch.Asifnaturehadnotwreakedenoughdamage,theearthquakealsoproducedatsunamiwavethatcameup theTejo. The fire that followed lasted five or six days: buildingswerereduced to rubble, more than four-fifths of houses were destroyed andeverymajor church in the city collapsed. Even now there is no accuratenumberforthedeathtollbutthebestestimateisaround12,000people–atenthofthepopulationatthattime.This disaster will forever remain in the national psyche but, like a

phoenix, the city picked itself up from the ashes andwas slowly rebuilt.Thosebeautifulyellow-facedbuildingsaroundTerreirodoPaço,thenoblepalacesquarebytheRiverTejo,area legacyof theearthquake;sotoo is

the Baixa Pombalina, the grid of streets that graduates down towards it,with avenues lined with arches and arcades, balconies and balustrades.Altogether,itisrathergrand.Another dark feature of our past was the dictatorship established by

António de Oliveira Salazar that crushed Portugal for more than fourdecades.KnownastheEstadoNovo,orNewState,this‘SecondRepublic’wasinpowerfrom1934untilitwasfinallykickedoutduringtheCarnationRevolutionin1974,whenlisboetastooktothestreetsafteramilitarycoupandstuffedcarnationsintothemuzzlesofgunsandrifles,andflowersintothepocketsofsoldiers.Duringthedictatorship,thebohemiansideofLisbonhadbeenburiedand

peoplewereencouragedtostayathomeratherthansocialiseoutside.Thesong ‘UmaCasaPortuguesa’, performedbyoneof ourmost famous fadosingers,AmáliaRodrigues,wasanattempt toexaltpovertyandhome lifeduringtheregime.‘Ifsomeonehumblyknocksatthedoor,weinvitethemto sit at the table with us,’ she sang. ‘The joy of poverty is this greatrichnessofbeinggenerousandfeelinghappy.’AlthoughIlovethewaythissongembodiesthegenerosityofthePortugueseandtheirdesiretosharetheirfood,italsoechoesthedictator’semphasisonkeepingpeoplewithinthefourwallsoftheirhomesandawayfromcivic,collectiveorsociallife.Ittookmanydecadesforourculture,ourcityandourpeopletorecoverfromthisoppressionandembracevibrantcafésocietyandstreet lifeagain,astheyhadduringtheblossomingofLisbon’scafésintheeighteenthcentury.Evenduringthesedarktimes,eatinganddrinkingwasstillanobsession

forthePortuguese.Theeconomicchallengesmeantthatfoodwasscarceformany, particularly in the remote areas of the country, but sometimesdifficultsituationsbringoutthebest inpeople; ingredientswereekedoutandnewdishescreated.Youonlyhavetothinkofaçorda,arichsoupmadefromstalebreadandasmallamountoffish,seafoodormeat,torealisethatthere’sa‘needsmust’elementthatformsthebasisofmuchofourcookerytoday.Many lisboetas are actually immigrants from elsewhere in Portugal,

havingleftfarmlandorremotemountainvillagestoseekabetterlifeinthecity.MygrandparentscamefromtheAlentejoregioninthenorthand,likemanyothers,theybroughtrecipeswiththemalongwiththeirluggage.Theywantedtorecreatethespecialitiesoftheirhomeregion,evokingmemoriesof a different life and place. Each corner of the country has a cooking

identity,itsownDNA,andLisbonhasbecomeadistillationofallthese.It’svery much an urban cooking style, a cuisine of ‘now’: fast, sometimesfestive,alwaysfun.Manyyearsago I leftmycountry insearchofabright futureaswellas

differentworlds.At first I thought Iwouldbeamarinebiologist– in truthbecauseIcouldn’tstudythatsubject inPortugalandsowouldhave togoabroad to do it. While in Miami, I found my calling; I realised that mypassionforfoodcouldbetranslatedintoacareer,andthismademehappy.I travelled a fair bit, learningaboutdifferent tastes, flavours andcookingmethods,andduringmyjourneyIworkedinsomeoftheverybestkitchens.I settled inLondonandcreated the restaurantsandprojects that I amsoproudof:Bacchus,LoftProject,Viajante(whereIwas luckyenoughtobeawarded a Michelin star) and Chiltern Firehouse. Most recently, I havereturnedtomyrootswiththePortugueserestaurantTabernadoMercado.Writingthisbookhasmeantcontinuingmyculinaryjourneyofdiscovery,

androotingonceagainaroundthePortuguese larderandkitchen.When Ismell a simmering refogado, the typical Portuguese sauce base, with itsaromasofgarlic,onion,bayleafandpaprika,Irealisethatit’sthebedrockofmycooking,ascentthathasalwaysbeenpartofmylife.Suchsimplicitysums up the best of Portuguese cooking: taking fantastic produce andlettingitsownnaturalflavourbethemainplayerontheplate.OursisoneofthemostoverlookedcuisinesinEurope,andIbelieveit’s

timetotrulyshoutaboutthefoodofPortugal.NotonlydowestandastallasourIberianneighboursintermsofbrilliantriceandseafooddishes,butwe also braved the unknown seas and brought culinary brilliance fromacross thecontinentsback toourownkitchens, thusmakingoursa verydistinctive kind of cooking. So, althoughwe have verdant, peppery oliveoils and superb tomatoes grown in our own soil, we are also the onlycountry in southern Europe to use fresh coriander and ground cinnamonliberally in our recipes. Our unique bread-thickened soups, açordas, mayseemhomely but are in fact examples of ingenious adaptation.Our friedsnacks can be irresistible – the concept of tempura is owed to thePortuguese.Lastly,wehavesomeofthebestsweettreatsintheworld,andthepasteldenata(custardtart),withitsyellowfilling,burnishedbrowninparts,sittingatopacircleofflakypastry,hasachievedakindofcultstatusinrecentdecades.Withouradventurousculinarypastandournew-foundexcitementabout

the future, Portugal has the potential to be a new force in gastronomyworldwide.Wemaynothavehadgreatfinesseinthepastbutwhatwe’vealways had, even during dark times, was some truly wonderful food.Ironicallyenough, it took leavinghomeandtravellingelsewhereformetorealisethatthePortuguesetableisoneofthebestintheworld.Mycookingnowisaboutreinventingandreimaginingthetraditionalcuisine.WehaveaphraseinPortuguesethatseemstosumitup:memóriasdesfocadas (hazymemories).Therecipesandstoriesinthisbookarelikethesongofthelisboeta,andI

hopethatyou’lllovethemasmuchasIdo.

Cooks’NotesPortuguese food is essentially simplebut, like all cuisines, it has its ownpeculiarities,beloved ingredientsanddistinctive techniques,and there isgreatvarietybetweenthedifferentregions,climatesandterrains.ThefoodofLisbonisadistillationofallthis,sincethecapitalisnowhometopeoplewhohavetravelledherefromalloverthecountryandourformeroverseasterritories,bringingtheirmuch-lovedhomecookingwiththem.Here I have explained a few of the more distinctive elements in our

cooking,andsuggestedalternativesforthingsthatmaybehardertofind.Allyoureallyneed,though,isgood-qualityfreshproduce.

IngredientsTheareaaroundLisbonisblessedwithoneofthegreatestnaturallardersyou’ll ever come across, from the sardines andmackerel caught by localfishermen, the octopus of Cascais and the red mullet of Setúbal, to thewonderful freshcoriander, turnipgreens,oliveoil and tangy,oozing localcheeses.Youmaynotfindexactlythesamethingswhereyoulive,butseekoutthebest-qualityfreshproduceyoucanandadaptwherenecessary.

Fishandseafood

Portugal is known for the rich variety and pristine quality of its fish andseafood; our marine biodiversity is almost second to none. Whendevelopingtherecipesforthisbook,wechosetousethetypesoffishthatareeasiertofindinothercountries,whichmeant leavingoutsomeofourdistinctive seafood dishes. When choosing fish, follow your nose andacceptonlytheverybest:lookforthosethatareshimmeringandbeautifulwith firm flesh and only the faintest briny smell. Take advice from yourfishmonger and substitutewhatever similar, good-quality fish or seafoodyoucanfindlocally.

SaltcodSaltcodisanationalobsessioninPortugal,andithasplayedanimportant part in our history and culture (see here). However, I prefer tocuremyown cod in a salt and sugarmixture(here),which keeps the fishmoresucculentandhelpsitretainitsoriginalflavour.Ifyoudousesaltcod,it’sbest to look forabig, fatpiece thatdoesn’t seemverydryandmakesureyousoakitwellforatleasttwoorthreedaysincoldwater,changingthewatereveryday.

Meat

The Portuguese have a deep-seated love affair with pork. In Lisbon,because we are close to the Alentejo region where these animals arereared,weadorethedeliciousnuttyflavourofacorn-fedblack-footpig in

allitsforms,frompresunto(adeliciouscuredhamthatiseasilytheequalofSpanish jamón ibérico and Italian Parma ham) to simple fried fillets andwholelegs.Wealsolovetousepoultry,gameandyounggoat(cabrito;).Weliketomarinatethesefora longtime,oftenwithwine,garlicandpaprika,sothattheflavourreallypermeatesthemeat.Ourcuredsausages(enchidos)arequitebrilliant,andonceyoutrythem

youmightbeaddictedforever.Inthepast,wewouldmakethebestoftheproducewehadbyhangingwhatevermeatwasavailableoverthefireplacetosmoke,sometimesforafewdays,whichwouldpreserve itwithouttheneed for refrigeration. Every area of Portugal has its own enchidos; myfriendNunoDiniz,whomakesatraditionalPortuguesestewusingasmanytypesashecanfind,identifiedmorethan100atthelastcount.Chouriçoisprobablyour favouriteenchido,butwealsohavealheira,asausagemadefrommeatsother thanpork, flavouredwithbreadandgarlic; farinheira, arich garlic and pork sausage; and linguiça, a soft sausage that is lightlycuredandsmoked.

ChouriçoAsmokedsausageflavouredwithpaprikaandgarlic.Ithinkthebest chouriço comes from theAlentejo,where it tends tobe lessheavilysmokedandhasasubtlerflavour.Spanishchorizo,whilenotidentical(itisoilierandhasmorepaprikainit),issimilarandcanbeusedasasubstitute.

Morcela A soft sausagemadewith pigs’ blood, this is similar to blackpudding,which can be used if you can’t findmorcela. Likemany recipesthatbeganincountryhomes,morcelasvary,asdotheflavouringsused;myfavourite,andoneofthebestknown,ismorceladaGuarda.

PorkfatAlongwitholiveoil,porkfat isoneofthemostusedfatsinthePortuguesekitchen;iteventurnsupindessertsandpastries.Itisusedinasoft form, like lard, or cured until firmer and sliced, a bit like the ItalianlardodiColonnata.JarsofspreadableIbéricoporkfatandsliced lardoareavailableinmanygoodsupermarkets;ordinarylardcanalsobeused.

Cheeseandeggs

EveryregionofPortugalproducesitsowncheese,andthereisahugearraytochoosefrom.Mostcheeseismadefromsheeps’milkbecausecowsare

moreexpensiveandneedmore land.Somecheesescanseemquitehardand salty to non-Portuguese tastes, so it’sworth finding a goodqueijaria(cheese shop) and tastingbefore youbuy.Aswell as those listedbelow,whichareusedintherecipes,myfavouritesarequeijodeAzeitão,asmall,softcheese;queijodeNisa,asemi-hardcheesecurdledwiththistles;andqueijo Terrincho, a semi-soft cheese with a distinctive orange crust.Another true gem, and served as a snack in many restaurants, is queijofresco,avery freshcheesenomore than24hoursold,madewithsweet,freshcows’milk.

QueijodaSerraThis isaveryspecialcheesefromCovilhã,nearSerradaEstrela,thehighestmountaininPortugal,wherethelong-hornedsheepwhosemilkisusedtomakethecheesearepasturedonlush,greenslopes.Soldatdifferentstagesofmaturity,themostprizedversionistheverysoft,ripeonefoundinwinterandspring,whichweservebyremovingthecrustandspooningoutthemiddle.It isfull-flavoured,evenpungent,dependingonitsage.

QueijodaIlhaAnexcellenthard,full-flavouredcows’milkcheesefromSãoJorgeintheAzores,whichisalsoknownasqueijoSãoJorge.Itisoftenusedforgratingandcooking;Parmesanorpecorinomakegoodsubstitutes.

Eggs Eggs are one of the most important ingredients in Portuguesecuisine, particularly in desserts. Traditionally, egg whites were used inconventstostarchclericalgownsandtoclarifywine,andtheleftovereggyolks were used to create an incredible repertoire of desserts (docesconventuais),with theadditionofsugarand, inmanycases,cinnamon. Intherecipeshere,alleggsshouldbemediumsizeandfreerange.

Pulses,vegetablesandfruit

Portugueseterrainisveryfertile,withfabulousgrowingconditions,soyoumightfinditsurprisingthatfruitandvegetablesarenotabiggerfeatureofourcuisine.Wedogrowwonderfulproduce,though,andinLisboneventhetiniest corner shophas lushcoriander, flavourful tomatoes, juicyorangesand verdant olives. Pulses are grown and eaten all over the country, themost common varieties being chickpeas, white beans, red kidney beans

andblack-eyedbeans,whichareusedinsoupsandstewssuchasfeijoada.

CabbageCouvegalega,adark-leavedbrassicasimilartocollardgreens,isourfavouritetypeofcabbageandfeaturesinwhatiscommonlyregardedas Portugal’s national dish, caldo verde. Kale, Swiss chard and Savoycabbagecanallbesubstitutedforcouvegalega,dependingonthedish.

ChickpeasTheseareastapleofPortuguesecooking,and inLisbonwetreasureadishcalledmeiadesfeita inwhichtheyarecookeduntilfatandtender alongwith cod, lemon, eggs and coriander. They are also used tomakedeliciouspuréeswith tomatoes,garlicandagoodmeasureofoliveoil.

Oranges Orange trees are abundant all over southern Portugal, and inpartsofLisbonyou’llseethemgrowinginbackyards.They’reusedinmanydishes, the juice often lending its perfume and acidity tomarinades anddressings. Note that in the recipes that follow, all citrus fruit should beunwaxed.

Onions These are pretty much the backbone of Portuguese cooking, aparticular favourite being the large and pale-skinned type. You can useordinarybrownonionshereunlesstherecipespecifiesotherwise.

PotatoesSincetheyarrivedinPortugalduringtheDiscoveries,potatoeshave featured in most meals. Strangely, we often serve them with rice,which to me is a bit of a carbohydrate overload. Portuguese potatoes,yellowerandearthierthanthoseyoumightfindelsewhere,comeintotheirown in themanydishes thatusesaltcod,where the twoelementsoffseteachothergloriously.A flourypotatosuchasKingEdwardorMarisPipercanbeusedinstead.

TurnipgreensAlongwithcabbage,turnipgreens(grelos)areoneofthefewgreenvegetables thatwePortuguesecrave.Theyare typicallyboiledor friedwith garlic and lots of olive oil andmake a wonderful side dish.Otherdarkleafybrassicascouldbesubstituted.

Herbs,spicesandstorecupboard

One of the most distinctive features of Portuguese cooking is its use offlavourings,which isquiteunlike theothersouthernEuropeancuisines initsuseofcoriander,chilli,orangeandcinnamon–althoughwedosharetheMediterraneanloveofgoodoliveoil.Sauces,marinadesanddressingslikepiso,piripirioilandmassadepimentãoareused liberallytoadd layersofflavour.

AguardentevelhaAguardente isthenationalPortugueseliquoror‘firewater’,whichcomes inmany varieties.Aguardente velha is distilled fromwineandagedinportbarrels;itsclosestsubstituteisbrandy.

BayleavesBayisaconsistentundertoneinPortuguesecooking.Iliketouse fresh leaves for their aromatic pungency, but feel free to substitutedriedbayleaves.

Bread Being at its heart a thrifty cuisine, the Portuguese culinaryrepertoire includescountlessuses forbread,astapleof thenationaldietfor centuries. It’s an essential ingredient, for example, in migas andaçordas.Oneof thebest-known types isbroa,a rusticbreadmadepartlywithcornmealandtraditionallybakedinlargeloavesinwood-firedovens.Its dense yellow crumb is almost cake-like, which helps it to age well.Although they are quite different in taste and texture, in many of therecipeshereyoucouldusesourdoughoragood-qualityrusticloafsuchaspaindecampagne.

Cinnamon Ever since it was first brought to our shores from India,cinnamonhasbeenadored inPortugal. It isused liberallywithsugarandegg yolks in our desserts and cakes. You will also find it, perhapssurprisingly,insomeofoursavourydishes.

Coriander Coriander’s distinctive flavour defines many of the flavoursweidentifyasPortuguese,mostnoticeablywhenitiscombinedwithgarlic,lemonandoliveoilintheherbsaucepiso.

MustardWe love toservesweetmustardwithsnacksandsandwiches.ThelocalbrandisSavora,butanysweetmustard,suchasFrench’s,willdo.

Olive oil Olive oil is one of Portugal’s great treasures and is usedthroughoutourcooking–not leastbecausemanypeoplehaveolive treesandmaketheirown. It reallydoesvarythroughoutthecountrydependingon which varietal of the many dozens has been cultivated, and flavourprofilesrangefromgrassyandbittertonuttyandsweet.Ialwaysliketouseagood-qualityoliveoil,andfinishoffmanydisheswithagenerousswirlofextra-virginoil.

Paprika This is used liberally for its smoky intensity, piquancy andbeautiful colour. Portuguese paprika (colorau) can be substituted withSpanishsweetsmokedpaprika.

PiripiriThepiripiriisafierychillipepperthatwasbroughttoourshoresfromAfrica.Welovetouseitinbothfreshanddriedform,andhomemadepiripirioilisastapleondiningtablesallaroundthecountry.

Rice This is extremely important in Portuguese cooking and agriculture,andourarrozdisheseasilyrivalthepaellasandrisottosofSpainandItaly.Bothshort-andlong-grainvarietiesaregrownhere,butit’stheshort-graincarolinoricethatI likebest. Ifyouhavetroublefindingit,whiteJapanesesushi rice or Spanish bomba rice are good alternatives.We like our ricedishestobeservedmalandrinho,quitelooseandrunnyintexture.

TechniquesAlthoughwePortuguesehaveourowndistinctivepreparations,suchasourway of cooking arroz (rice dishes), migas and açordas (bread-thickenedsoupsandstews),nospecialtechniquesareneeded.HereIhaveexplainedsomeofthewaysI liketocook,whichareallaboutmaximisingfreshnessandflavour.

Preparing vegetablesWhenever possible, I peel and cut vegetablesjust before I cook them to help keep them fresh, especially onions andfennel.Ialsoliketoremovethegreengermfromthecentreofgarliccloves,whichcantastebitter,beforecrushingthem.Notethatallvegetablesintherecipesaremediumsize,unlessotherwisespecified.

SeasoningThankstoPortugal’slongcoastlinewehavemanysaltbeds,andsalthasplayedanimportantpartinourhistoryovermanycenturies.Incookingweusecoarseseasaltandfinetablesaltandadditliberallybut,ofcourse,theamountyouuseisuptoyou. I liketoadda littleseasoningateverystageofcookingadish,andthenjustsprinkleoveralittleflakysaltsuchas fleurdeselorMaldonsaltat theend. Iusegroundwhitepepper,ratherthanblack,formostofmydishes.Alongwithsaltandpepper,freshlysqueezedlemonjuiceandpaprikaaretheotherkeyelementsofseasoning.

Deepfrying InPortugalwereally lovetodeepfryourfood;ourpassionforcrunchylittletitbitsknowsnobounds.Dotakecarewhendeepfrying;donotoverfill thepanwithoilandnever leave itunattended.Fry insmallbatchesandeatassoonaspossibleafterfrying.

QuickcookingManyoftherecipesinthisbook,suchasthecafé-stylesteak, garlic and chilli squid with green beans and quick-fried beef withpickles,canbecookedveryquickly.Fordisheslikethese,theinstructionsarereallymoreofaguide. It’sbest toreadtherecipe in full first tomakesureall isclear, thenput thebookdownandcook itquickly fromstart tofinish.

OventemperaturesInPortugalweoftencookathightemperatures.Inparticularwelikeourpastriesbakedquitedark,ideallywithheatfromboththetopandbottomoftheoven.Thiscanberecreatedathomebyusingahigheroventemperaturethanyoumightbeusedto;startbyfollowingthetemperaturegiven in the recipe, check thedish regularlyand increaseorreducethetemperatureifnecessary.

Modern Lisbon, likemost other capital cities across theworld, is atime-pressedplaceat lunchtime.Nevertheless, thathorriblecultureof picking up sandwiches from in a fridge and running back to theofficesimplydoesn’texisthere. In fact,most lisboetaswould laughyou down if you even dared to suggest eating something sounnaturally coldandclearlymadeat least 12hoursago ina factorymiles away. Yes, theymight grab abifana or aprego (a hot beef orporksandwich)atthecounter,butitwillbecookedfreshbeforetheireyes,servedhotandprobablyaccompaniedbyasmallbowlofsoup.

InPortugalwe’reoften reallyhungryby lunchtime–wedon’t tend toeatmuchforbreakfast–sothismealisstillareasonablybigaffairintermsofwhatpeopleeat,howeverpushed for time.That’swhy tascasdoagood,brisktradebetweenmiddayand2o’clock.Manypeopleliketoorderthreecourses: soup, a dish of fish or meat served with rice and potatoes, adessertandacoffee.Thoseinahurrywillwolfdownahotpratododia(dishoftheday)andleavefeelingsatisfied.Soupisanimportantelementoflunch,andformanypeoplethisisamain

source of vegetables – it’s a shame, but our country’s cooks have neverbotheredmuchwith them,asmanyvegetariantravellersdiscover to theirhorror. The very idea of eating soup from a can is ridiculous to thePortuguese–notleastbecauseit’slazyandextravagant.For a long time Portugal was a deeply impoverished country, and its

people found ways to eke out the small amounts of food they had bycreating fabulous soups. Caldo verde, which rose to become our mostpopular soup, is traditionally made with chouriço or linguiça sausage,shreddedcabbage,potatoesandwater.It’sincrediblysimple,usingonlyafew cheap ingredients, but it could easily be described as Portugal in abowl. My recipe for onion soup was inspired by a deliciously sweet andcreamyversion that I tasted ina restaurantmore than30yearsago,andwhichhaslingeredinmymindeversince.In the past, Portugal would come to a standstill for a couple of hours

everydayatlunchtime:theshutterswerepulleddownandpeoplescuttledoff to the local tascaorbackhometoeatat the tablewith their families.Fortheoldergeneration,lunchremainsthemostimportantmealoftheday.Ofcourse,weall like tospenda fewhours relishing itwhenwecan,so I

haveincludedsomerecipesherefordishesthattakealittlelongertocookbutarethekindyou’llwanttoenjoyslowlyonceyouhavethemonthetable– I’m thinking of the rather complicated but glorious fish soup, or myoctopuswith smashed potatoes, olive oil and piso. There’s a Portuguesesaying that lunch takes two hours: one hour for eating and one hour fortalking.That’smyfavouritekindoflunch.

Old-styleonionsoupSopadecebolaàantigaportuguesa

Thisisacomfortingdishthatrequireslittlepreparation.Itmakesthemost of different types of onions and shallots combinedwith eachother, and the addition of brandy or Madeira creates a deep, richflavour.IfyoucangetyourhandsonsomePortuguesequeijodaIlha(orqueijoSãoJorge),thisisagreatwaytouseit.

Serves4

3tablespoonsoliveoil,plusextrafordrizzling50gbutter4whiteand4brownonions,thinlysliced4bananashallots,thinlysliced20mlbrandy,plusextratoserve50mlMadeira,plusextratoserve800mlchickenorvegetablestock4slicessourdoughorotherrusticloaf60mlsinglecreamAsplashofsherryvinegar50gqueijodaIlha(orsimilarhardcheesesuchasParmesan),gratedExtra-virginoliveoil,toserveSeasaltflakes,groundwhitepepperandcrackedblackpepper

Heat the olive oil and butter in a large pan over amedium heat, add theonionsandshallots,coverandcookfor10minutes,oruntilsoftandjuicy.Pourthebrandy,Madeiraandstockintothepanandstirwell.Bringittotheboil, then reduce the heat. Cover with a lid and simmer gently for 45minutes,stirringoccasionally,addingalittleextrastockorwaterifneeded.

Preheattheovento220°C/Fan200°C/Gas7.Drizzlethebreadwitholiveoiloneachside.Bakeonabakingtrayfor5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Removeabout4 tablespoonsof theonionsandshallots fromthepanandset aside. Add the cream to the pan and blend the soup with a stickblender. Season with salt and white pepper, then stir in a little extrabrandy,Madeira and a splashof sherry vinegar. Transfer to a tureen andkeepwarm.

Servethesoupinwarmedshallowbowls.Putasliceoftoastineachbowlandsprinkleitwithcheese,thentopwiththereservedonionsandshallots.Pourthesoupoverthetoastalongwithsomemorecheese,aglugofextra-virginoliveoilandcrackedblackpepper.

Old-styleonionsoup

KalesoupwithchouriçoandpotatoesCaldoverde

CaldoverdeisoneofPortugal’smostspecial,heart-warmingdishes.Thequalityofthechouriçoandthepotatoesmakesabigdifference,sogetthebestyoucan. InPortugal,atypeofcabbagecalledcouvegalega is used, but here I have gone for kale, which enhances thebeautiful jadecolour. Traditionally,caldoverde ismadewithwater,butIprefertousechickenstockforadenserflavour–mycountrymenwillkillme,butIampreparedtostandmyground.

Serves4

3tablespoonsoliveoil150gchouriço(skinremoved),diced,plusafewthinslicestogarnish2onions,finelychopped2garliccloves,crushed1bayleaf4potatoes,suchasMarisPiperorsimilar,peeledanddicedintosmallpieces

1.5litreschickenstockorwater

200gkale,finelychoppedExtra-virginoliveoil,toserve4 slices cornbread, sourdough or other rustic loaf, toasted, buttered and cut into

smallpieces(optional)Good-qualitywhitewinevinegar,toserveSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Heattheoliveoilinapanoveramediumheat.Addthechouriçoandcookfor a coupleofminutes, thenadd theonions, garlic andbay leaf, seasonwithsaltandpepperandcookuntiltheonionsaresoft.Stirinthepotatoesandsweat fora fewminutes, stirringso thepotatoesdon’t stick.Pour inthestockorwaterandsimmergentlyoveralowheatuntilthepotatoesaresoft.Removeafewtablespoonsofthepotatoesandsetaside.

Addhalf thekale to thesoupandsimmer fora fewminutes.Remove thebay leaf, take the soup off the heat and blend until smooth with a stickblender.(Traditionallythesoupisnotblended,butIliketoblenditandaddsomemorefreshkaleattheend.)Returnthepantotheheatandtasteforseasoning.Addthereservedpotatoesandremainingkaleandsimmerforafewminutes.

Ladle thesoup intobowls.Finishwithsome thinlyslicedchouriço,extra-virgin oliveoil andpiecesof toast, if you like.As it canbequite a heavysoup, I like to add a splash of white wine vinegar to cut through therichness.

Kalesoupwithchouriçoandpotatoes

TomatosoupSopadetomate

WhenIwasgrowingupIusedtospendlong,carefreesummerdaysatmy grandmother’s beach house in Costa da Caparica, and whentomatoeswereinpeakseasonwewouldmakesoup.NowadaysIputa little toast in thebottomof thebowl and scatter some freshmintleavesontop,andasthesoupisladledintothebowlthevibrantsmelloftomatoesmeetingminttakesmestraightbacktothosedays.Try to find the best, ripest tomatoes you can for this. I like a

selectionofvine-ripenedplumandheirloomtomatoes(yellow,green,tiger); always usewhat you love. It is a thick and chunky soup – ifyou’dpreferitmoreliquid,youcantopitupwithchickenorvegetablestock,tomatowaterorevenplainwater.Youcanalsoaddpork fatorchunksof lardoto theoliveoil in the

pan, but feel free to keep it vegetarian (I knowwhich I prefer).Anyleftoverscouldbeturnedintopastasauceorservedalongsideanicepieceofgrilledseabassormackerel.

Serves4

5tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusextrafordrizzling1redonion,slicedinto3–4mmrings2brownonions,slicedinto3–4mmrings3bayleaves2garliccloves,crushed1tablespoonsherryvinegar,plusalittletoserve2tablespoonsMadeira,plusalittletoserve1.3kgtomatoes(amixtureoftypes),roughlychopped4slicessourdoughorotherrusticloaf,thicklyslicedAsmallhandfulofmintleavesAfewthinslicesoflardoorapoachedeggperperson(optional)Seasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Heat the olive oil in a large, wide pan over a low heat, add the red andbrownonionsandcookfor10minutes,oruntilsoftandjuicy.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Addthebayleafandgarlicandcookfor2minutes,oruntilfragrant.AddthesherryvinegarandMadeira,increasetheheattomediumandsimmerfor2moreminutestoburnoffsomeofthealcohol.Stirinthechoppedtomatoes.Cook,covered,overamediumheatfor10minutes,oruntilthetomatoeshavebrokendownabitbutarenotmushy.

Preheattheovento220°C/Fan200°C/Gas7.Drizzleeachsideofthebreadwitholiveoil,placeonabakingtrayandbakefor5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Tastethesoupforseasoning,addingadashofsherryvinegarandMadeiraif needed. To serve, place a slice of toast in each bowl with a fewmintleavesontopandladlethesoupover.Finishwithafewslicesoflardoorapoachedegg.

Tomatosoup

Coriander-marinatedbroadbeansFavasdecoentrada

Broad beans, or favas as they are known in Portugal, are mostcommonly used in their dried form inmeat stews. That approach istastybutveryheavy,andfailstoshowoffthebeautyofthebeansintheirnaturalstate.Instead,trythissaladinspring,whenbroadbeansfirstcomeintoseasonandareyoungandbrightandwonderful. It’slovelywithgrilledfish.

Serves4

1eggwithanorangeyolk,suchasaBurfordBrown2slicessourdoughorotherrusticloaf2tablespoonsoliveoil,plusextrafortoastingthebread200gpoddedfreshbroadbeans1shallot,finelychopped1garlicclove,crushedAsmallhandfulofcoriander,leavesandstalksseparatedandfinelychoppedFreshly

squeezedjuiceandfinelygratedzestof1lemonChardonnayvinegarorgood-qualitywhitewinevinegar,totasteExtra-virginoliveoil,totasteSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Puttheegginapanofcoldsaltedwaterandheatuntilitcomestoarollingboil.Remove fromtheheatand let theeggsit,covered, in thepan for 10minutes. It should be hard boiled with a slightly creamy but set yolk.Removeandputitinicedwatertostopthecooking.Oncecooled,peelandseparatethewhitefromtheyolk.Finelygratethewhiteandyolk,keepingthemseparate,andsetaside.

Preheattheovento220°C/Fan200°C/Gas7.Putthebreadonabakingtrayanddrizzlebothsideswitholiveoil.Toastthebreaduntilgoldenbrownandcrispyand,oncecooled,roughlychopitintocoarsebreadcrumbs.

Separate the big broad beans from the little ones. Peel the big ones (ifnecessary,plunge them intoboilingwater for30seconds, thendrainandplunge them straight into iced water; this makes them a little easier topeel).Mixtogethertheshallot,garlicandcorianderstalksandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

Heatthe2tablespoonsoliveoilinafryingpanoveramediumheat,addtheshallotandcorianderpasteandcookuntillightgoldenbrown.Addhalfthelemon juice. Turn the heat down to low and let it cook gently. Taste forseasoning; itmayneedmore lemon juice.Whentheshallotandgarlicaresoft,addthebroadbeansandstirwell.Takethepanofftheheatandaddand a splash of vinegar. Add the coriander leaves, lemon zest andbreadcrumbs, drizzle with a little extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle thegratedwhiteandyolkontop.

Coriander-marinatedbroadbeans

HeartycodandcorianderbrothAçordadebacalhau

Açordawasinventedduringtimesofdeeppoverty,wheningredientshad tobestretched inunfathomableways.Butdespite its frugality,it’sasoupwePortuguese truly love.Apanof fishstockmixedwithgarlic,corianderandoliveoil,pouredoveranicepieceofcodandasliceofstalesourdoughbreadisabrilliantexampleofhowsimpleyetfullofflavourourcookingcanbe.I love to cure fishbecause it draws themoistureoutof the flesh,

whichmeans it has a nicer texture and cooksmore evenly. I use aratio of 6 parts sugar to 4 parts salt, which enhances the naturalsweetnessofthefish.Youcanalsoaddotherflavourings,dependingon the final dish (see left for suggestions). The possibilities areendless, so experiment! You could try curing halibut, bream, bass,mackerelorsoleandmatchingthemwithdifferentseasonings.

Serves2

Forthecuredcod90gcastersugar60gfineseasaltAromatics of your choice, such as bay leaves, coriander seeds or leaves, parsley,

orangeandlemonzest,fennelseeds,blackpeppercornsandperhapsacinnamonstickforwarmth2x150gskinless,pin-bonedcodfilletsofaneventhickness(thetop,fatterpartoftheloinisideal)Forthecodbroth

2tablespoonsoliveoil200gcodtrimmings(askyourfishmonger)2garliccloves,crushed

Fortheaçorda3tablespoonsoliveoil2garliccloves,crushed

Asmallbunchofcoriander,stalksfinelychoppedandleavespicked2slicessourdoughorotherrusticloafAhandfulofmintleavesExtra-virginoliveoil,toserveSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Tocurethecod—Whisktogetherthesugar,saltandaromatics,ensuringthey arewell combined. Spread half the cure over the bottomof a smalltray.Put the fishon topandcoverwith the remainingcure.Setaside for20–30minutesat roomtemperature. It’sworthcheckingsooner thanyouexpect,ratherthanover-curingit;itshouldfeeltighterandfirmer.Rinseoffthecureandpatdrywithkitchenpaper.

Tomakethecodbroth—Heattheoliveoilinapanoveramediumheat.Addthecod trimmings, garlic and 1 litrewater, then simmergently for 20–30minutes.Remove from theheat, coverand leave to infuse foranother30minutes.

Tomaketheaçorda—Heattheoliveoil inapanoveralowheat.Addthegarlic and coriander stalks and cook gently for 5 minutes, until soft andfragrant.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Pour in thecodbrothandbring totheboiloverahighheat.Reduce theheat to low,add thecuredcodandpoach for 5 minutes, until just starting to flake gently apart. Stir in thecorianderleavesandtasteforseasoning.Toastthebread.Toserve,placeasliceoftoastineachbowlwithafewmintleavesontop.Spoonthecodandbrothoverthetoast,addingalittlemorebroththanyouthinkyouneed,asthebreadwillabsorbalot.Drizzlewithextra-virginoliveoilandserve.

Heartycodandcorianderbroth

Octopuswithsmashedpotatoes,oliveoilandpisoPolvoàlagareirocombatataamurro

Thisdish issmothered in fragrantgreenextra-virginoliveoil,hencethe name: a lagareiro is the owner of an olive oil press. The smellremindsmeofsummerdaysonthebeachesoutsideLisbon,whenthescent of grilled octopus wafts alluringly through the air. Perfectlycrispoctopus,caramelisedaroundtheedges,isunbelievablygood–especiallywhenservedwithtwice-cookedpotatoesandthedeliciousPortuguese herb-and-oil condimentpiso. This varies from region toregion,evenperson toperson,andyoucanaddanycombinationofherbsandcitrus,evenalmondsandchilli,dependingonwhat it’s togowith–letyourimaginationrunwild.Iliketomakeadouble,tripleorquadruplebatchandstoreitinthefridgeforaweek.Itworkswellasamarinadetoo.

Serves4–6

Fortheoctopus1octopus(about600g),cleaned,withhead,eyesandinnardsremoved2bayleaves1whiteonion,quartered2garlicclovesSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

ForthepisoAbunchofcoriander,leavesandstalksfinelychopped½garlicclove,finelycrushedFinely grated zest of ½ lemon, plus freshly squeezed juice to taste (optional) 3

tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusextrafordrizzling

Forthesmashedpotatoes

8–12flourypotatoes,suchasMarisPiperorsimilar,skinon4tablespoonsoliveoil2bayleaves4garliccloves,smashed

Tocooktheoctopus—Rinsetheoctopusundercoldrunningwater.Half-filla large pan with water and add the bay leaf, onion and garlic and agenerouspinchofsaltandpepper.Bringtotheboil,addtheoctopusandboilfor3minutes.Carefullyremovetheoctopusandsetitasidetorestfora few minutes. Bring the same water to the boil again and repeat theprocess twomore times. In thiswayyoucancontrol thecookingprocessandcheckhowfirmtheoctopusfleshisbecoming.Atthispoint,thefleshshouldbe tenderwitha little resistancewhenyou insertaknife, and theskinwillfeelslightlygelatinous.

Turntheheatdownto low.Simmertheoctopus,covered, for20minutes.Remove it from the pan and allow it to cool. If you have time, chill itovernight,whichallowsthefleshtobecomefirmer.Whentheoctopushascooled,cutitinto3–4cmpieces.

Tomakethepiso—Mixtogetherthecoriander,garlicandlemonzestwithagenerouspinchofsaltandpepperuntilyouhaveapaste.Iliketomakethisin a pestle and mortar, but you can also chop everything very finely byhand.Byaddingsaltatthisearlystage,theflavourwillbedrawnoutfromthegarlic.Stirintheoliveoil.Ilikeitsharp,andIaddabout2tablespoonslemon juice just before serving so it doesn’t discolour. Itwill keep in thefridgeforafewdayswithanextraglugofoliveoilontop.

Tomakethesmashedpotatoes—Preheattheovento210°C/Fan190°C/Gas6½.Cookthepotatoesinplentyofsaltedboilingwateruntiljusttenderbutnot breaking up. Remove from the pan, drain well and leave until coolenough to handle.Murro means ‘punch’ in Portuguese, and we are nowgoingtopunchthepotatoes.Smasheachonegentlywiththepalmofyourhand. Toss them in a bowl with the olive oil, bay leaves and garlic andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Puttheminalargebakingdish(bigenoughtoholdtheoctopustoo)andbakefor30minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownandcrispy.

Drizzletheoctopuswithextra-virginoliveoilandputthepiecesontopofthe potatoes. Increase the oven temperature to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7and cook for 10 minutes, or until the octopus has lovely crispy edges.Drizzlewiththepiso, take itstraight tothetableand letyourguestshelpthemselves.

Octopuswithsmashedpotatoes,oliveoilandpiso

GrilledseabasswithfennelandkaleRobalodemargrelhadocomfunchoecouvegalega

InLisbon,whereyoucanfindamazing-qualityseabass, it’sunusualtoservethefishoffthebone,asitishere.Thisisawonderfulwaytoshowofftherobustflavourofthefish,however;askyourfishmongerto butterfly the sea bass (in otherwords, to scale, gut and bone it,leavingthefilletsattachedalongthetop),thengetcreativewiththestuffing.I’veusedfennelandkalehere,butyoucanexperimentwithchouriço,lemon,piso,coriander,bayleaf,bloodsausage–whatevertakesyourfancy.

Serves2

5tablespoonsoliveoil,plusextrafordrizzling1whiteonion,thinlysliced2garliccloves,crushed1fennelbulb,trimmedandthinlysliced1smalllongredchilli,deseededandthinlysliced2stripslemonzest,finelychopped1wholeseabass,guttedandbutterfliedAlargehandfulofparsleyleaves,finelychopped1tablespoonredwinevinegar200ggreenkaleAlargehandfulofcorianderleaves,finelychoppedSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

First,make thestuffing.Heat2 tablespoonsoil ina fryingpanovera lowheat, add the onion, garlic and fennel and cook gently for 10minutes, oruntil soft. Add the chilli and lemon zest and cook for another 5minutes,thenremovefromtheheatandsetthestuffingasideinabowl.

Preheatthegrilltohigh.Make3diagonalslashesintheskinonbothsidesofthefish.Rubhalfthestuffingintothecavitiesofthefish,thencloseitup

again. Drizzle the skinwith oil and sprinkle half the parsley over it, thenseasonwithsaltandpepper.Grill for20minutes,oruntilcookedthroughandcrisp.Iftheskintakesontoomuchcolourbeforetheinsideiscooked,coveritwithkitchenfoil.

Heattheremainingoliveoil inthefryingpanoveramediumheatandaddtherestofthestuffing,alongwiththeredwinevinegar.Addthekaleandcookfor3–4minutes.Removethepanfromtheheatandstirintherestoftheherbs,thenserveimmediately.Iliketotakethewholeseabasstothetablewiththekalespoonedontop,alongwithallthebeautifuljuicesfromthepan.

Confitcod,eggandchickpeasaladMeiadesfeita

Meiadesfeitaisatypicalcityworkers’lunch,whichusedtobemadeusing salt cod trimmings rather than thewhole fish,bulkedupwithchickpeas and a boiled egg. It is a delicious dish, and the fact thatherethefishisnotthemainevent,playinginsteadacomplementaryrole, reminds me a little of Japanese cuisine. A plateful of thisnourishingdishwillgiveyoutheenergytogetthroughtheafternoon,whatever you’re going to be doing. Some grilled bread on the sidewouldbelovely.

Serves4

Fortheconfitcod500mlextra-virginoliveoil1bayleaf1garlicclove,smashed½longredchilli,cutintochunks4x150gcuredcodfillets

Forthechickpeas400gdriedchickpeas,soakedovernightwithapinchofbicarbonateofsoda1shallot,halved1carrot,halved1celerystick,cutintochunks1bayleaf1garlicclove,halved50ghamhockorsmokedbacon,inonepiece(optional)Seasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Forthesalad4eggs

Asmallbunchofcoriander,leavespickedAsmallbunchofparsley,leavespicked1redonion,finelychoppedFreshlysqueezedjuiceof2lemons40mlChardonnayvinegarorgood-qualitywhitewinevinegar6tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusextratogarnishSmokedpaprika,totasteSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Tomaketheconfitcod—Putalltheingredientsexceptthecodinamediumpanandgentlyheatto85°C,orwhentheoiljuststarttobubble(takecarethatitdoesnotboil).Removefromtheheat,waitfor5minutes,thenslidein thecodand leave it in theoilas itcools.After 15minutes it shouldbecookedthroughandflakingnicely.Removeandcarefullytransfertoaplate,thengentlybreakitapartintobite-sizedchunks.

Tocookthechickpeas—Rinsethechickpeas,puttheminapanandcoverwithcoldwater,addingtheshallot,carrot,celery,bayleaf,garlicandhamhock,ifusing.Bringtotheboil,thensimmergentlyfor45minutes–1hour,oruntil soft.Remove thepan from theheat, seasonwithsaltandpepperandleavetocoolinthecookingliquid.

Tomakethesalad—Lowertheeggsintoapanofboilingsaltedwaterandgently simmer for 6minutes. Remove from the pan and put them in icedwatertostopthemcooking.Oncecool,peeltheeggs.Finelychopmostoftheherbs,reservingafewwholeleavestogarnish,ifyoulike.

Drain thechickpeasandput them inabowlwithall thesalad ingredientsexcepttheeggs.Seasonwithsalt,pepperandpaprikaandmixwell.Spoonthesaladontoalargeservingplateandscatterthechunksofcodoverthetop.Cuttheeggs inhalfandplacethemontopwiththereservedparsleyandcorianderleaves,ifusing,thendrizzlewithextra-virginoliveoil.

Confitcod,eggandchickpeasalad

FishsoupSopadepeixe

ThereisafantasticabundanceoffishandseafoodinPortugal,soourfish soups are complex in flavour and incredibly diverse in texture.We often add small elbow macaroni pasta, which absorbs theflavoursfromthestockandbringsanextradimensiontothedish.Gototownwiththevarietiesoffishandseafoodyouuse(tryredmullet,seabass, bream,mackerel, pollackor coley), andmake sure to askfor the trimmings from your fishmonger, as they make for a betterbroth.Thiswillnotbeaclearsoup,butonewithdeepflavour.

Serves4

Forthefishstock3tablespoonsoliveoil1onion,roughlychopped1fennelbulb,roughlychopped2carrots,roughlychopped2garliccloves,smashed1bayleaf300gfishtrimmings4ripeplumtomatoes,roughlychopped50mlwhitewineSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Forthesoup3tablespoonsoliveoil2onions,finelychopped1bayleaf2garliccloves,peeled,degermedandcrushedAsmallbunchofcoriander,stalksfinelychoppedandleavespickedSmokedpaprika,totaste

6ripeplumtomatoes,roughlychopped60mlwhitewine40gsmallpasta,suchaselbowmacaroniorshells300gfishfillet(seeintroduction),cutintobite-sizedpieces500gprawns,musselsor

clams

Toserve4slicessourdough1garlicclove,halvedFinelygratedzestof1lemonAsmallhandfulofparsleyleaves,roughlychoppedExtra-virginoliveoil

Tomakethefishstock—Heattheoil inalargedeeppanoveralowheat.Addtheonion,fennelandcarrotsandcookgentlyfor10minutes.Addthegarlic,bay leafandfishtrimmingsandcookfora fewmoreminutes, thenadd the tomatoes, increase the heat and cook until they have lightlycaramelised.Pour in1 litrewaterandthewhitewineandbringtotheboilover a high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 25–30minutes.Skimoffanyscumthatrisestothesurface.

When the stock is ready, remove it from the heat, cover and leave it toinfuse for 20minutes, then strain it. Season lightlywith salt andpepper.This isaveryversatilestock;youcoulduse it for theprawnandshellfishrice,infishstewsortopoachwhitefishsuchashalibutorseabass.

Tomakethesoup—Heattheoilinalarge,widepanoveralowheat.Addthe onions and bay leaf and cook for 5minutes, seasoningwith salt andpepper. Add the garlic, coriander stalks and paprika and cook for a fewminutes more. When the onions are translucent, add the tomatoes.Increasetheheattomediumandcookuntil thevegetablesstartto lightlycaramelise.Pourinthewineandcookbriefly,thenadd1litrefishstockandsimmerfor10minutes.Addthepastaandsimmerfor2minutes(youdon’twanttocookitallthewaythroughatthisstage),thentasteforseasoning,rememberingthattheseafoodissalty.

Addthefishandpoachitinthesoupfor1–2minutes,thenaddtheprawns,

musselsorclamsandstirwell.Cookforanother2–3minutes,thencover,shakethepanandremoveitfromtheheat.Leaveittositforafewminutes.

Toserve—Toastthebreadandrubeachslicewiththecutgarlic.Bringthesoup pan to the table and open the lid to breathe in its wonderfulfragrances.Discardanyunopenedshellfish.Sprinkleover the lemonzest,corianderandparsleyleavesandagenerousdrizzleofextra-virginoliveoil.Alittlemorepaprikawouldbelovelytoo.Pourthesoupoverthetoaststoserve.

Fishsoup

GrilledsardineswithgreenpeppersSardinhasassadascomsaladadepimentos

WhenItriedtocookthissardinedishrecently,thefirstthingIdidwasput the prepared fish next to the grill –which happened to be on aroof terrace in downtown Lisbon – before turning my back for aminute.Bigmistake.Imustwarnyou:don’tleaveyoursparkling-freshsardines outside unattended, for the seagulls will get them. Thethoughtofthosegreedybirdsflyingawaywithmybeautifulfishstillmakesmelaugh.Sardines are always cooked whole in Lisbon, but because of a

rather unfortunate childhood encounterwith a fish bone I prefer toremove thebones,which isakindofsacrilege,butwhatcan I say?Here,thesardinebelliesarestuffedwithlemonzestandbayleaves,and are delicious alongside grilled green peppers and a slice oftoastedsourdoughtosoakupthejuices.

Serves2

1sweetwhiteonion,thinlyslicedAsmallbunchofcoriander,leavesfinelychoppedandstalksreservedAsmallbunchofparsley,leavesfinelychoppedFinelygratedzestof½lemon3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusextraforbrushing2greenpeppers2teaspoonswhitewinevinegar4largeplumpsardines,butterflied,backboneremovedandpinboned4bayleaves4stripslemonzest4stripslimezestToastedbread,toserveSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Puttheonion inasmallbowlwithapinchofseasalt,addwatertocover

andleavetosoakforafewminutes.(Thiswillbreaktheoniondownalittlesothattheflavourisnotasstrong.)Mixtogetherthecorianderandparsleyleavesandlemonzestwithagenerouspinchofsaltandwhitepepper.Stirintheextra-virginoliveoiluntilyouhaveapaste.

Preheatthegrilltohigh,thengrillthepeppersuntiltheskinisblackenedallover, turning them a couple of times. Transfer to a container and covertightly with clingfilm. Once cooled, peel, deseed and thinly slice thepeppers. Drain the onions and mix them with the peppers, white winevinegaranda few tablespoonsof theherbpaste. Leave tomarinateuntilyouarereadytoserve.

Gently open the sardines and stuff themwith the bay leaves, lemon andlime zest and chopped coriander stalks, and season well with salt andpepper.Brushtheskinwitholiveoilandsprinklewithsalt.Grillforabout3–4minutes,oruntilcrispontheoutsideandcookedthrough.Spoonsomeoftheherbpasteonthetoastedbreadandtopwithasardine,thenaddmorepaste.Servethepeppersontheside.

Grilledsardineswithgreenpeppers

BakedsaltcodwithcaramelisedonionsandpotatoesBacalhauàGomesdeSá

Thereareatleast365saltcodrecipesinPortuguesecuisine,oneforeverydayoftheyear,butthisisoneofthefewthateveryoneknows.BacalhauàGomesdeSáwascreatedinarestaurantinPorto,wherethe chef, after whom the dish is named, was the son of a codmerchantwhohadgonebankrupt.Heapparentlysaid,‘ifyouchangeanything in this recipe, it won’t be good,’ but I have to say I don’tagreewithhim.Ihavereplaceddriedsaltcodwithfreshlycuredcod,whichmakesthedishcreamyratherthansalty.Makesuretheonionsarecaramelisedslowly,tobringouttheirsweetness.

Serves4

400gpotatoes,suchasMarisPiperorsimilar3tablespoonsoliveoil,plusextrafordrizzling4onions,thinlysliced2garliccloves,finelychopped,plus1halvedgarlicclove300gcuredcod(butcureitforonly20minutes)3eggsAsmallhandfulofblackolives,slicedintoringsAhandfulofparsleyleaves,finelychoppedExtra-virginoliveoil,toserveSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Preheattheovento210°C/Fan190°C/Gas6½.Cookthepotatoesinboilingsalted water until soft but not mushy, then drain. Once cool enough tohandle,cuthorizontallyinto1cmslices.

Heat theoliveoil in a panover amediumheat.Add theonionsandcookgentlyfor10minutes,untilsoft,andseasonwellwithsaltandpepper.Addthegarlicandcookuntil fragrant. Increasetheheatslightly tocaramelisethe onions, stirring well to ensure they don’t stick. Once they are

caramelisedandsweet,removethepanfromtheheat.

Oil the base of a large ovenproof baking dish and rub it with the halvedgarlic clove. Cut the cod into bite-sized chunks. Make an even layer ofpotatoesonthebottomofthedish,thenoneofonions,followedbyoneofcod.Repeatwithanotherlayerofeachandfinishwithalayerofpotatoesandonions.Coverwithalidorkitchenfoilandbakefor25minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownandcookedthrough,removingthelidafter10minutes.

Puttheeggsinapanofcoldwater,ensuringtheyarefullycovered.Bringthewatertotheboiloverahighheat,thenremovethepanfromtheheat,cover and leave for 10minutes. Put the eggs in icedwater to stop themcookinganyfurtherandpeelthemoncecool.

Just before serving, slice the eggs intowedges. Scatter the eggs, olivesandparsleyontopofthepotatoesandonions.Servehot,straightfromthebakingdish,withadrizzleofextra-virginoliveoil.

Bakedsaltcodwithcaramelisedonionsandpotatoes

PrawnbreadporridgeAçordadegambas

Prawnaçorda,akindofbread-thickenedsoup,isdreamywhenmadewell.Ilikeminespicedandlemony,boundtogetherwithaflavourfulstockmadefromtheshellsoftheprawns.Ifyoucangetyourhandson some really good sweet red prawns, use only the shells for thestockandaddthe fleshrightat theend,so that it’salmost rawandjustheatedthrough.Someofthemarisqueiras(shellfishrestaurants),around Guincho beachwest of Lisbon serve fabulous açordas, andit’sjustperfecttoeatthisbythesea.

Serves2

300gfreshrawkingortigerprawns,shellandheadon5tablespoonsoliveoil200gsourdoughorciabatta1freshcornonthecob1smallfennelbulb,trimmedandthinlysliced2garliccloves,crushed100gripetomatoes,roughlychoppedAsmallhandfulofcoriander,stalksandleaveschoppedseparately3wholeeggyolksWorcestershiresauce,totaste(optional)Freshlysqueezedlemonjuice,totasteExtra-virginoliveoil,toserveSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Bring a large pan of water to the boil and add the prawns. Boil for 3–4minutes, or until the shells turn pink. Remove the prawns, reserving thecooking water. Once cool enough to handle, twist the heads to removethem.Peelthemanduseasmallknifetomakeaslitalongthemiddleofthebackofeachone,thenpullouttheveins.

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large pan over amedium heat, add theprawnshellsandheadsandcookforafewminutestoreleasetheirflavour.Coverwiththereservedcookingwaterandsimmergentlyfor20minutes.Strain, reserving the liquid and discarding the shells. Tear the bread intoroughchunks.Pour500mlprawnstockoverthebreadandleavetosoakinabowlfor20minutes.

Preheatthegrill tomedium-high,addthecornandgrill for10–12minutes,untiljustgoldenbrownandcrispy,turningithalfwayduringcooking.Oncecooledslightly,cutthekernelsoffthecob.

Heat the remainingoliveoil inapanovera lowheat.Add the fennelandcookgentlyfor10minutes,oruntilsoft,thenaddthegarlicandcookuntilfragrant.Pourinthesoakedbreadandaddthetomato,corianderstalksandcorn.Cookoveralowheatfor5minutes,thenstirthroughtheprawnsand1eggyolk.Taste forseasoningandaddadashofWorcestershiresauce, ifyoulike.

Serve inbowlswitha fresheggyolkon topofeachone,andaddagoodsqueeze of lemon juice, some extra-virgin olive oil and the corianderleaves.

Prawnbreadporridge

MonkfishandchouriçocataplanaCataplanadetamboril

A cataplana is a large copper-coloured metal cooking vessel madefrom two domes hinged together, resembling a clam. Introduced toPortugal by theMoors, it gently steams fish,meat or vegetables tocreate a fragrant stewwith stock that’s full of flavour.Unlikemostrestaurants, I par-cook some of the ingredients first so that themonkfishandpotatoeswillbeperfectlycooked,andnotoverdone.Ifyoucan’tfindacataplanayoucoulduseawide,shallowpanwithalidinstead– justmakesureyou resist the temptation toopen itbeforethecookingtimeisup.

Serves4

200gratteorCharlottepotatoes4tablespoonsoliveoil2onions,thinlysliced2garliccloves,crushed150gchouriço(skinremoved),finelychopped8plumtomatoes,finelychopped50mlsinglecream100mldrywhitewine500gmonkfish,cutintothinmedallions20largeclams,rinsedundercoldrunningwaterandsoakedincoldwaterforatleast

30minutesAsmallhandfulofparsleyleaves,finelychoppedSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Cut the potatoes in half, keeping any smaller ones whole. Cook them inplenty of boiling saltedwater for 8–10minutes, or until just soft but notmushy.Drainandsetaside.

Heattheoliveoilinacataplanaorwide,shallowpanoveralowheat.Addtheonionsandcookgentlyforabout10minutes,oruntilsoftandjuicy,then

seasonwith salt andpepper.Add thegarlic andcookuntil fragrant, thenaddthechouriçoandcookuntiltheedgesarecrisp.

Pour in the tomatoes, cream, wine and 50ml water and simmer for 1–2minutes.Addalittlemorewaterifitseemstoodry.Stirinthemonkfishandclams,coverwithalidandshakethepan.After2minutes,takethepanofftheheatanddiscardanyunopenedclams.Tasteforseasoning,stirthroughtheparsleyandserveimmediately.

Monkfishandchouriçocataplana

SausageandcabbagerollswithtomatosauceSalsichascomcouvelombarda

This is a canteendish at heart –my father used towork for a largepharmaceutical company and sometimes I would join him atlunchtimejusttoeatthis.Withgreatingredients,itbecomesaclassicof the Portuguese repertoire. Make sure you use the best-qualitysausages you can find, with a high pork content, perhaps from anItalian deli or your butcher. Go for the plainest ones possible,withnothing more than seasoning added. It’s worth making the saucebase ahead of time, so that you can let it rest long enough for theflavourstodevelopnicely.

Serves4

3tablespoonsoliveoil2onions,thinlysliced2garliccloves,crushed1bayleaf3rashersstreakybacon,thinlysliced400gtinnedchoppedtomatoes80mldrywhitewine1Savoycabbage,leavesseparatedandhardstemremoved8–12good-qualityporksausages3slicessourdoughorciabattaSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Preheattheovento190°C/Fan170°C/Gas5.Heat2tablespoonsoliveoilinapanoveramediumheat.Addtheonionsandcookgentlyfor10minutes,oruntilsoftandjuicy.Seasonwellwithsaltandpepper.Addthegarlic,bayleafandbaconandcookfor5minutes.Pourinthetomatoes,increasetheheat and cook for 5 minutes, or until the tomatoes have sizzled andreduced.Stir inthewhitewine,reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor20minutes.

Meanwhile,blanchthecabbageinalargepanofboilingsaltedwaterfor3minutes. Remove and cool in iced water to stop the cooking. Using thegreenest leaves,wrapeach sausage in a cabbage leaf and securewithacocktailstick.

Tastethesauceforseasoning,thenpourmostofitintoalargebakingdish.Arrange the cabbage rolls in the sauce, then spoon over the remainingsauce. Cover with kitchen foil and bake for 25 minutes, or until cookedthrough.After10minutesofcooking,removethefoil.

Meanwhile,drizzle thebreadwith the remainingoliveoilandseasonwellwithsaltandpepper.Bakefor5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown,thenleaveto cool and chop into rough breadcrumbs. To serve, remove the cocktailsticks from the cabbage-sausage rolls and sprinkle the breadcrumbs ontop.

Sausageandcabbagerollswithtomatosauce

Roastedorange-rubporkbellywithfennelBarrigadeporcoassadacomlaranja

I first made this dish when I invited some Portuguese friends tocelebrateChristmaswithmeatmyfirstrestaurantinLondon.Astherestaurantwasclosed,weusedtheopenkitchentocook inandsetup a long table in the middle of the dining room. We ate, drank,openedpresentsandcelebratedintotheweehoursofthemorningof25 December – just as in Portugal, where the real party is onChristmasEve.Thismaynotbeatraditionaldish,butitisadeliciousone: the skin is crisp and the insides are lovely and succulent,flavoured with the unmistakeably Portuguese notes of orange andcoriander.

Serves4

Forthemarinade5garliccloves,crushed2teaspoonsseasaltflakes1teaspoongroundwhitepepper2teaspoonssmokedpaprikaAsmallbunchofcoriander,leavesandstalksfinelychopped1longredchilli,deseededandfinelychoppedJuiceandfinelygratedzestof1orange4tablespoonsoliveoil

Forthepork800gbonelessporkbelly1fennelbulb2sweetwhiteonions40mldrywhitewine

To make the marinade— Using a stick blender or small food processor,blendtogetherall the ingredients for themarinade.Withasharp,pointed

knifescoretheskinoftheporkbellyallover inacriss-crosspattern.Rubthemarinadealloverthebellyandleavetomarinateforacoupleofhoursinthefridge,orideallyovernight.

Tocookthepork—Preheattheovento160°C/Fan140°C/Gas3.Slicethefennelandonionsintoroughlyequalpieces,puttheminabakingtrayandputtheporkbellyontopwith itsmarinade.Pour inthewhitewine.Roasttheporkbellyfor2½hours,oruntiltenderallthewaythrough.Increasetheoven temperature to 210°C/Fan 190°C/Gas 6½ and roast for another 10minutes,oruntiltheskiniscrisp.Removefromtheovenandleavetorestonawarmplate.Cutintothinslices,makingsureeveryonegetsapieceofthelovelycrackling.Servewiththefennelandonionsontheside.

Roastedorange-rubporkbellywithfennel

RoastkidgoatCabritoassadonoforno

KidgoatisahighlyregardedmeatinPortugal,bothoutofnecessity–itmakessensetoeattheyoungmalegoatsthatcannotproducemilk– and for its unique flavour,which is stronger than that ofmilk-fedanimals.Itisbecomingincreasinglyavailableinothercountries,butifyoucan’tfindit,olderlamb,hoggetormuttonwouldalsoworkwell.This recipe was designed for a domestic oven, but if you’re luckyenoughtohaveawood-firedbreadoveninyourgarden,thisisagreatopportunity tomake themostof it. It’swellworth trackingdownormaking some massa de pimentão (red pepper paste); itscharacteristicflavourwouldbehardtoreplace.

Serves4

1.2kgkidgoatshoulder

6potatoes,suchasMarisPiperorsimilar,cutintothickchunks3whiteonions,cutintothickchunks6carrots,cutintothickchunks5garliccloves,smashed75gcoldbutter,diced

Forthemarinade2tablespoonssmokedpaprika1tablespoonseasaltflakes2teaspoonsgroundwhitepepper4garliccloves,crushed200mlwhitewine2tablespoonsoliveoil2tablespoonsredpepperpaste4bayleaves

To make the marinade— Using a stick blender or small food processor,blendall themarinade ingredientsexcept thebay leavestoapurée.Pourthemarinadeoverthegoatandrubitintotheflesh.Put2bayleavesunderthegoatand2ontheskin.Marinateovernight,orideallyfor2days,inthefridge,turningitonce.

Preheattheovento160°C/Fan140°C/Gas3.Putthevegetablesinabakingdishlargeenoughtofitallthevegetablesandgoatbutstillbequitesnug.Sitthegoatontopofthevegetables.Addasplashofwatertothemarinadeleftinthemarinatingdishandpourthisalloverthegoat,takingcaretogetallthejuices.Dotthebutterontopandcoverlooselywithkitchenfoil.Bakefor2hours, then remove the foil andbake for anotherhour. Increase theheatto200°C/Fan180°C/Gas6forthelast10minutestocrispuptheskin.

Roastkidgoat

Café-stylesteakBifeàcafé

Bifeàcafé,arealLisbonfavourite,takesitsnamefromCaféMarrarein theChiadoarea,acoffeeclub frequentedby thecity’spoetsandintellectuals,andalsofamousforitssteak.Thankstothename,somepeople imagine that the sauce contains coffee, but traditionally it’smore of a creamy pepper sauce. Using good-quality meat will addhugelytothisdish;I likeanicedry-agedsirloinsteak,whichismoreaffordablethanfillet.Finishitoffwithasliceofcuredhamorafriedeggontop,asthePortuguesedo.Eatitwithfriedpotatoesandsomepiripirioilortabascosauce,ifyoulike.

Serves2

2x180gsirloinsteaks2tablespoonsoliveoilAknobofbutter1smallbananashallot,finelydiced1tablespoonbrandy1tablespoonMadeira1teaspoonPortuguese-stylemustard60mlsinglecreamWorcestershiresauce,totaste2slicesIbéricohamSeasaltflakesandcrackedblackpepper

Take the steaksout of the fridgeat least 20minutesbefore cookingandseasonthemwellonbothsideswithsaltandpepper.Heattheoliveoilinafryingpanoverahighheat.Whenthepanisveryhot,addthesteaksandcookfor2–3minutesoneachsideformediumrare(theexactcookingtimewilldependonthethicknessof thesteaks).Addthebutterandbaste thesteakswithit.Removethesteaksandleavetorestonawarmplate.

Addtheshallot to thecooking juices in thepanandcookovera lowheatuntil soft, then increase theheat tocaramelise it.Pour in thebrandyandMadeiraandstirquicklytoincorporateallthecookingjuicesandsediment.Addthemustardandcreamandcookforanothercoupleofminutes.

Taste for seasoningandaddsomemore salt, pepperandWorcestershiresauce,ifyoulike.Ifthesauceisalittlethickorstartingtoseparate,addadashofwarmwater.Putasliceofhamoneachsteak,pour thesauceontopandeatstraightaway.

Cafç-stylesteak

ChickenandricecongeeCanjadegalinhadocampo

When Iwas little and not feelingwellmy grandmotherwouldmakemea restorativebowlofcanja, amagicalbrothmade from riceandshredded chicken. In Portugal, we say cautela e caldos de galinhanuncafizerammalaninguém,whichmeans‘noharmevercamefromcautionorchickenbroth’.Canja isstillmyhappyfood.I likethericetobeovercookedtothe

point that it is falling apart, rather like a Chinese congee. I usechicken thighs, as breast meat would be a little dry (traditionally,canja would have been made with leftover bones from a roastchicken, so having anymeat at all is a bit of a luxury). Feel free toadapttherecipebyaddingporkribs,searedIbéricopork,game,duckor whatever takes your fancy; the principles remain the same. Tryserving it with a poached egg and some crispy garlic and fennelshavings.

Serves4

600gbone-inchickenthighs,skinon3tablespoonsoliveoil,plusextratoserve1onion,finelychopped1fennelbulb,trimmedandfinelychoppedAsmallbunchofcoriander,leavespickedandstalksfinelychopped1mildlonggreenorredchilli,deseededandfinelychopped2garliccloves,crushed5gfreshrootginger,peeledandthinlysliced200g short-grain white rice, preferably Portuguese carolino, Japanese sushi or

Spanishbombarice2bayleaves1cinnamonstick1litrechickenstock(orwater)Freshlysqueezedjuiceof½lemon

1–2teaspoonsIbéricoporkfatorduckfat(optional)Seasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Forthepiso,andtoserve1garlicclove,finelycrushedFinelygratedzestof½lemon2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusextrafordrizzling

Rub the chicken thighswith 1 tablespoon oil. Heat a pan over amediumheat and add the chicken skin-side down, ensuring maximum contactbetween skin and pan, and cook until golden brown. After 2 minutes,seasonthefleshsideofthechickenwithsaltandpepper.Removeitfromthepan,drainoffexcessfatandsetaside.

Add the restof theoliveoil to thepan.Add theonionand fennel,seasonwithsaltandpepperandcookforafewminutesuntilsoftandtranslucent.Stirinthecorianderstalks,chilli,garlicandgingerandcookgentlyfor1–2minutes,oruntilsoftandfragrant.Addtherice,bayleavesandcinnamonstickandcookforafewminutestotoasttherice,thenpourin1litrewaterandthestock.

Return the chicken and any juices to the pan and ensure that all theingredientsarefullysubmerged,thenbringtotheboiloveramediumheat.Skimoffanyfoambuttrynottoremovetoomuchfat,asthiscontainsalltheflavour.Coverandsimmergentlyfor45minutes,oruntilthechickenisvery tender and the rice has collapsed completely to a thick, glutinousconsistency, whisking occasionally to help break down the starch. If itstartstolookalittledry,topitupwithequalpartswaterandchickenstock.Youarelookingfortheconsistencyoflooseporridge.Oncecooked,removethe chicken, bay leaves and cinnamon. When the chicken has cooledslightly,pull themeatoff thebones, roughlychop it, then return it to thepan. Seasonwith salt, pepper and lemon juice. I also like to add a littleextraIbéricoporkfatorduckfat.

Tomakethepiso—Mixtogether thecoriander leaves (reservinga fewtogarnish),garlicandlemonzestwithagenerouspinchofsaltandpeppertomakeapaste.Stirintheoliveoil.

To serve — Ladle the soup into bowls, drizzle over piso and olive oilgenerouslyandsprinklewiththereservedcorianderleaves.

Chickenandricecongee

GrilledpiripirichickenwithpotatocrispsFrangonabrasacompiripiri

You’ll nodoubthaveheardofpiri piri chicken, as it featureson themenuofseveralinternationalrestaurantchains.Theirreinventionofthe dish has nothing on the real thing, which is spatchcocked andcooked slowly over charcoal, constantly basted with hot, fragrantbutter. It originated in Mozambique, a former Portuguese colony,wherethefierypiripiriormalaguetachilliesweregrown.Ifyoucookit on a wood-fired grill you might be transported to this far-awaytropicalplace–butyoucanalsoroastitintheoven!Freshly fried potato crisps are eaten throughout Portugal as a

snack, or to accompany sandwiches and rotisserie chicken.Traditionally, thecrispsareservedsalted,but therearemanyotherflavouringoptionsyoucantry.Youcanusesalts,herbsandchillioilsto enhance your crisps – the sky really is the limit in terms of theseasoning.

Serves4

1x1.6kgwholechicken2bayleaves40gbutter1tablespoonbrandyAlargehandfulofparsleyleaves,finelychoppedSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Forthepiripiripaste6garliccloves,crushed1longredchilli,thinlysliced1lemon,roughlydiced6tablespoonsoliveoilSeasaltflakesandcrackedblackpepper

Forthepotatocrisps3mediumpotatoes,suchasMarisPiperorKingEdwardVegetableoil,forfryingYourchoiceofchoppedherbs,flavouredsaltsandoils,totaste(optional)Spatchcock

the chicken, or ask your butcher to do it for you. This involves removing thebackbonesothatthechickencanbecompletelyflattenedout,ensuringevenandquick cooking. Put the chicken breast-side down on a board, its legs facingtowardsyou.Withstrongkitchenscissors,cutalongbothsidesof thebackbonefromthetailtotheheadtoremoveit.Spreadthechickenoutandturnitover,thenpress down on the breastbone firmly until you have flattened it. Make a fewdiagonalslashesalongthebreastoneachside.Seasontheskingenerouslywithsaltandpepperandchillfor2hours.Thisdrawsoutmoistureforincreasedflavourandmakestheskincrisperduringcooking.

Tomakethepiripiripaste—Poundthegarlic,chilli,lemonandoliveoilwithseasaltandwhitepepperinapestleandmortarorblitzthemwithastickblenderorsmallfoodprocessor.Rubthepastealloverthechickenskinandleavetomarinateforanother2hours,ifyouhavetime.

Tomakethepotatocrisps—Peelthepotatoesandslicethemasthinlyasyoucan,usingamandolin.Rinsethemundercoldwatertoremoveexcessstarchsothattheydon’tcolourtooquicklywhenfrying.Patthemdrywithkitchenpaper,thenputtheslicesinacleanteatowelandcarefullywringitouttosqueezeoutallthemoisture.One-thirdfillalarge,heavy-basedpanwith oil and heat it to 165°C. Fry the potatoes in small batches for 3–5minutes, or until cooked but still pale. Remove the crisps with a slottedspoon and increase the oil temperature to 180°C. Fry the crisps againbriefly inbatchesuntilgoldenandcrispy.(Donotovercrowdthepan,andtake care that the oil temperature does not rise too high.) Use a slottedspoon to remove them from the pan and drain on kitchen paper, thensprinklewithsaltandpepperandwhateverflavouringsyouwishtouse.

Tocookthechicken—Preheattheovento220°C/Fan200°C/Gas7.Putthebay leaves on a baking tray and place the chicken on top. Roast for 45minutes–1 hour, or until cooked through, basting regularly. Remove andtransfertoawarmplatetorestforabout15minutes.Pourallthecooking

juices from thedish intoapan, including the lovely fat.Warm the juices,addingthebutterandbrandy.Simmergentlyfor1–2minutes,thenremovefrom the heat and stir in the parsley. Pour over the chicken and serveimmediatelywiththecrisps.

Grilledpiripirichickenwithpotatocrisps

Slow-simmeredbean,cabbageandporkstewFeijoada

Awell-made feijoada, inmyopinion, isa fantastic thing:abeanandcabbagestewwithabitofcuredmeatdottedaround.Myversion isfresherandmorefragrantthanthetraditionaloneand,thankstothetypesofmeatused,thecookingtimeisreduced.Iusedriedbeans,asthe cooking liquor adds extra flavour to the dish, but if you’re in ahurry,atinofgood-qualitybeansisnotgoingtospoilanything.This recipeuseschouriçoandmorcela (bloodpudding),but if you

can’t findeitherof these justuseSpanishchorizoandBritishblackpudding.Youcouldalsoaddsomestreakybacon.ServethefeijoadawithapieceofcrustybreadandaglassofPortugueseredwine.

Serves4

180gdriedbeans(I liketouseacombinationofbutterbeans,redkidneybeansandcannellinibeans),or2x400gtinsbeansApinchofbicarbonateofsoda

1shallot,halved1carrot,halved1celerystick,cutintolargechunks1garlicclove,halved1bayleaf200gporkbelly,diced

Forthefeijoada2tablespoonsoliveoil2onions,diced2garliccloves,crushed2carrots,diced1celerystick,diced1bayleaf200gchouriço(skinremoved),diced

250gmorcela,cutintothickslices200gtinnedchoppedtomatoesor6ripeplumtomatoes,chopped100gSavoycabbage,thinlyslicedExtra-virginoliveoil,toserveAlargehandfulofparsleyleaves,finelychoppedSmokedpaprika,totasteSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Soak the dried beans overnight in plenty of cold water with a pinch ofbicarbonateofsodatohelpsoftenthem.Thenextday,drainthebeansandputtheminapanwiththeshallot,carrot,celery,garlic,bayleafandporkbelly. Cover with water and cook over a medium heat for 45 minutes–1hour,oruntiltender.Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolinthecookingliquid.Seasonthecookingliquidwhiletheycool(ifyouseasonthemduringcooking, the skins will harden). Drain the beans, reserving the cookingliquid.

Tomakethefeijoada—Heattheoil inapanoveramediumheat.Addtheonionsandcookgentlyfor5minutes,thenaddthegarlic,carrot,celeryandbay leaf. Season with salt, pepper and paprika and cook until all thevegetables are soft. Add the chouriço,morcela andpork belly (if you areusingtinnedbeans,andthereforehavenotcookeditwiththedriedbeans),increase the heat and cook for 5minutes, until themeat starts to brownandsomeofthefatmeltsout,enhancingtheflavour.

Add the tomatoes and stir well. When the tomatoes have sizzled andreduced,pourin500mlofthebean-cookingliquorand500mlwater(ifyouhave used tinned beans, use 1 litrewater). Bring to the boil and skim asnecessary,takingcarenottoremovethedeliciousfat,thenturndowntheheattolow.Stirinthebeansandgentlysimmerfor1–1½hours,oruntiltheporkbellyistenderallthewaythrough.

Stir in thecabbageandcontinue tocook for5–6minutes,oruntil tender.Tasteforseasoning.

Finishwithadrizzleofextra-virginoliveoilandsomepaprikaandchoppedparsleyontopofeachserving.Ifyouhaveexcessliquidleftafterserving,

youcoulduseitasthebaseforasoup.

Slow-simmeredbean,cabbageandporkstew

Dinner is a late affair in Portugal. Like our Iberian neighbours, wedon’tusuallysitdowntoeatoureveningmealuntilatleast8o’clock.Welovetomakethisasocialevent,whetherit’saroundatableintheheartofthehomeoroutinarestaurantwithfriends.Beingtogetherisahugepartofhowwe thinkabout food–our loveof thestuffgoeshandinhandwiththepleasurewegetfromsharingit.

Talkingthedayover,fromthemundanemechanicsofitalltothebeautifulorthepolitical,isafundamentalpartofdinnerforus.Wemakepropertimeforit,andsometimesthehourscanlanguidlyrollbyuntilaftermidnight,ifthecompany is right. Theseareoftenquite loudand raucousgatherings,andatareallygreatdinneryou’llcometolearnthatthePortuguesearenot,inanysense,a‘quiet’people.Portugal’sdifficulteconomicclimatehasmeantthat,overtheyears,our

tableshavenotalwaysheavedwithexcess,buteveninthemoststraitenedtimesourfood is invariablydelicious.Povertyhitharshly intheregionsofAlentejoandTrás-os-Montes, forexample,andyettheseplacesgaverisetospectaculardishesthathavesincebeenadoptedbycooksinLisbon.Thekalemigas recipedatesback toa timewhendays-oldbreadwasused tobulkoutanyanimalfatsthefrugalcookmighthavecollected,andtogetherthesebasicingredientsbecamesomethingspecial.These days, young people in our capital like to hold dinners at home,

takingthatoldnotionoftertúlia,orartisticgatherings,outofthecafésandintotheirownkitchensanddiningrooms.Foodwillalwaysbeattheheartof things, but youmight also stumble across awriter reading aloud fromtheir latest work or a musician playing their new composition. ThePortugueselovehavingguestsintheirhomeandwhenyou’reluckyenoughtoreceiveaninvitationtoaneveninglikethis,youfeelblessed.The recipes herewill take a littlemore time to cook than those in the

Lunchchapterbut youwill, in turn, takemore time toenjoy them.Some,liketheslow-bakedlambchanfana,youcanmarinateonenight,slowcookthefollowingnightandthengraduallyreheatontheeveningofyourdinnerpartywhileyourustleupsomesidedishes.Thevegetabledishesyou’llfindinthischapterarenotmeanttobesides;

recipesliketheVinhad’alhos-stylecarrotsandparsnipsaremealsintheirownright.Greensandvegetablesgrowverywell inPortugal,butuntilthe

recentculinaryrevolutiontheywerealwaysanafterthoughtinmostchefs’minds. Inmany traditional kitchens they still are, often servedsoggyandalwaysasasidetoabigfatplateofmeatorfish.Therefore,myvegetablerecipes are not Portuguese classics per se; they’re simply made fromwonderful fresh ingredients with the vegetarian in mind, and with aPortugueseinfluence.Ofcourse,everyoneelseiswelcometotuckin–andif you do choose to serve them as side dishes despite all I’ve said, fairenough.Bringing a few of these dishes together will make for a wonderful

Portuguese dinner party; add some glorious red wine from the Douro orAlentejo and lots of laughter and chatter, and you’ll have a remarkablenight.

PrawnandshellfishriceArrozdemarisco

Inthegreatestversionsofarrozdemarisco,riceiscookedinastockmadefromtheshellsandtrimmingsofasmanyastendifferenttypesofshellfish,andthenthetendermorselsofseafoodareaddedattheend. Typically, tomatoes, onions and coriander are the otherelements thatmakeup this fantastic recipe, and the flavours cometogetherperfectly. It’sagreatdish toput in themiddleof the tableandleteveryonedigin.Ifyou’dlikeitlessspicy,deseedthechilli.

Serves4

5tablespoonsoliveoil2bananashallots,diced1smallonion,diced1smallfennelbulb,trimmedandfinelychoppedAbunchofcoriander,leavesandstalksfinelychopped2garliccloves,crushedFinelygratedzestof1lemon½longredchilli,finelychopped4ripeplumtomatoes,coarselygrated200g short-grain white rice, preferably Portuguese carolino, Japanese sushi or

Spanishbombarice,rinsedaccordingtothepacketinstructions600mlfishstockorwater

40mlwhitewine20mussels,cleaned20clams,cleaned16largekingortigerjumboprawns,shelledanddeveined

AsqueezeoflemonjuiceExtra-virginoliveoil,toservePiripirioil,toserveSmokedpaprika,totasteSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Heattheoliveoilinapanoveramediumheat.Addtheshallots,onionandfennel and cook gently for 10 minutes, or until soft. Season with salt,pepperandpaprika.Addthecorianderstalks,garlic, lemonzestandchilliandcookforafewminutes,oruntilfragrant.Stirinthetomatoes.Increasetheheattocaramelisethetomatoesalittle,forextraflavour.Addthericeandcookforafewminutestotoastit.Addthefishstockorwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmergentlyuntilalmostcooked,about15–20minutes.

A fewminutesbefore the rice is ready,add thewhitewineand tip in themusselsandclams.Coverwitha lidandshakea fewtimes.Cookfor3–4minutes,thenremovethepanfromtheheat.Discardanyunopenedshells.

Taste the rice forseasoning,keeping inmind that themusselsandclamswilladdextrasalt.Addtheprawnstothericeandcookforafewminutesuntil they turn pink. Stir in a squeeze of lemon juice, a little extra-virginoliveoilandthecorianderleaves.Serveinshallowbowls,anddon’tforgetthepiripirioil!

Prawnandshellfishrice

ConfitcodwitheggsandcrispypotatoesBacalhauàBrás

À Brás is a classic cooking style that’s synonymouswith eggs andcrispy potatoes, and it’s traditionally prepared with cod. This is asimplerecipeusingstraightforwardingredients,butit’strulyspecialwhenmadetherightway.Thecodshouldbecuredandgentlycookedintoaconfit, theonionsslowlycaramelisedandtheshoestringfriesthin and crisp. In many recipes the eggs are cooked to a hardscramble,butIprefertoaddthemattheendofcookingsothattheygentlybindall the ingredients inacreamymixture.Try it like this ifyoulovesoftscrambledeggs.TheàBráscookingstylecanbeappliedtootheringredientstoo–prawnsandcourgettes,say.

Serves2

Fortheconfitcod400mlextra-virginoliveoil1bayleaf1garlicclove,crushed1smalllongredchilli,cutintochunks2x150gcuredcodfillets

ForthebacalhauàBrásVegetableoil,forfrying200gpotatoes,thinlyslicedintomatchsticks1onion,thinlysliced2garliccloves,crushed5eggs,lightlybeatenAsmallhandfulofparsleyleaves,finelychoppedPittedblackolives,thinlyslicedSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Toconfitthecod—Putalltheingredientsexceptthecodinasmall,deep,heavy-based pan and heat gently to 85°C, or when the oil just starts tobubble. Remove the pan from the heat and leave it to cool for a fewminutes.Carefullyslideinthefishandleaveitsubmergedintheoilfor15minutes, or until it flakes apart nicely. Remove the fish, transfer it to aplate,thengentlybreakitapartintobite-sizedchunks.Reservetheoil.

TomakethebacalhauàBrás—Fillalarge,heavy-basedpanone-thirdfullwithvegetableoilandheatitto180°C,oruntilacubeofbreadsizzlesandturns golden brown almost straight away. Add the potatomatchsticks inbatchesandcookforafewminutesuntilgoldenbrownandcrispy.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaper.(Alternatively,youcanuseshop-boughtchipstickcrisps,aswedoinPortugal.)Heat2tablespoonsofthereservedconfitoilinapanoveramediumheat,addtheonionandcookgentlyuntilsoft.Addthegarlicandcookforafewminutes,untilfragrant.Stir in one third of the potatomatchsticks. Add the cod, then fold in theeggs, stirring themgently until they start to thicken and softly scramble,andseasoningwithsaltandpepper.Removethepanfromtheheatandstirthrough another third of the potato matchsticks. Transfer themixture toservingbowlsandsprinkletherestofthematchsticksontopalongwiththeparsleyandblackolives.

Confitcodwitheggsandcrispypotatoes

RedmulletwithSpanishsauceSalmonetescommolhoàespanhola

This dish is not complex, but it really shineswhen you cook itwithtop-qualityredmullet,suchastheonesfoundalongthePortuguesecoast.Ideally,thefishshouldbedeepredincolourandthefleshblue-ish and incredibly sweet. The sauce is an adaptation of molho àespanhola(Spanishsauce),andtherichredmullethasashellfish-likeflavour that goesperfectlywith it.Despite the fact thatwe sharealong border with Spain, there are very few examples of thePortuguese or Spanishmaking positive references to each other intheircookingor,indeed,anythingelse.

Serves2

Forthesauce3tablespoonsoliveoil1largewhiteonion,thinlysliced2garliccloves,thinlysliced60mlsherryvinegarFreshlysqueezedjuiceof1lemon1bayleaf

Asprigofparsley3–4redmulletlivers

Fortheredmullet4redmulletfillets,pinboned,skinon2tablespoonsoliveoilExtra-virginoliveoil,toserveSmokedpaprika,totasteSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Tomakethesauce—Heattheoliveoilinapanoveramediumheat.Addallthesauceingredientsexcepttheredmulletliversandcookgentlyforabout10minutes,oruntiltheonionissoft.Inaseparatebowl,mixtheredmulletliverswith40mlwatertomakealoosepaste.Stir inthis intothepanandcookforanotherfewminutes.Transfertoabowlandleavetocooltoroomtemperature.Removetheparsleysprig.

To cook the red mullet— Season the fishwith salt, pepper and paprika.Heat the olive oil in a small panover a high heat.Oncehot, add the fishskin-sidedownandsear for2minutesoneachside.Pour thesauceoverthefishanddrizzlewithextra-virginoliveoiltoserve.

RedmulletwithSpanishsauce

PortuguesefishstewCaldeirada

Caldeiradaisakindofbakedfishstew,inwhichthevarioustypesoffishandvegetablesareslicedandlayeredontopofeachotherbeforebeing dousedwithwhite wine and extra-virgin olive oil and baked.Youcanplayaroundwith the layersandchangeup ingredients,butmake sure you slice the vegetables very thinly so that they cookatthesamepaceasthefish.

Serves4

Apinchofsaffron1garlicclove,halved300gpotatoes,suchasMarisPiperorsimilar,verythinlysliced50gbutter,cubed5ripeplumtomatoes,slicedhorizontally1whiteonion,verythinlysliced1bulbfennel,trimmedandverythinlysliced400gredmulletfillets,eachfilletslicedintothreeExtra-virginoliveoil,todrizzle200mlwhitewineAhandfulofparsleyleaves,finelychoppedSmokedpaprika,totasteSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Pour 1 tablespoonboilingwaterover thesaffron ina smallbowl.Rub thecutgarliccloveallaroundthe insideofashallowbakingdish, ideallyonewithalid.Arrangehalfthepotatoesinthebottomofthedishandputhalfthe butter on top. Follow with a layer of half the tomatoes, onion andfennel,thentherestofthepotatoes.Seasoneverylayerwithsalt,pepperandpaprika.Makealayeroffish,thentheremainingonionandfennel,andfinallytheremainingtomatoes.Dottheremainingbutterontopanddrizzlewitholiveoil.Mixthesaffronwiththewineandpouritoverthedish.Leavetomarinatefor1hour.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas4.Cover thedishwith a lid orkitchenfoilandbakefor20minutes.Removethelidandbakeforanother20minutes.Sprinklethechoppedparsleyontopjustbeforeserving.

Portuguesefishstew

Clamswithchouriço,garlicandcorianderAmêijoasàBulhãoPatocomchouriço

This simple, classic recipe relies on top-quality clams. These arecooked quickly with the coriander stalks, garlic and oil, thensprinkled with plenty of coriander leaves and served with a nicesqueezeoflemon.Iliketoaddcrispypiecesofchouriço,too,andit’sgreattohavesomenicecrustybreadtosoakupthejuices.

Serves4

2tablespoonsoliveoil70gchouriço(skinremoved),dicedintosmallpieces1garlicclove,thinlyslicedA small bunch of coriander, leaves and stalks separated and finely chopped 400g

palourde,carpetshell,whitevenusorrazorclams

AknobofbutterLemonwedgesandpiripirioil, toserveHeat theoliveoil ina largepanovera low

heat.Addthechouriçoandcookuntilcrispy.Addthegarlicandcookgentlyforaminuteor so, until fragrant.Add thecoriander stalkswith theclamsandbutter.Increase the heat, cover the pan and cook for 3–5 minutes, shaking the panoccasionally,until theclamsstart toopen (if theshellsare thin thiswillhappenveryquickly).Takecarenottoovercooktheclams.

Discardanyclamsthathaven’topened.Removethepanfromtheheat,addthecorianderleaves,stir2or3timesandputthelidbackon.Takethepanto the table covered, then take the lid off at the table. Servewith lemonwedges and piri piri oil to taste, if you like. I prefer it quite lemony andspicy.

Clamswithchouriço,garlicandcoriander

CodbakedinacornbreadcrustBacalhaucombroa

ThefirsttimeIatethisdish,itwasmadebyagoodfriendofmine,LuísLucas.Likemyfather,João,Luíshasneverbeenaprofessionalcookbut he knowsmore about traditional Portuguese cuisine thanmostchefs.Thisdishisdedicatedtohimandtomyfather,whoinspiredmeto make cooking my path in life. Thank you, and I hope I do youjustice.Therecipeworksbestwithbroa(Portuguesecornbread),butyoucouldalsousesourdough.

Serves2

150gcornbread,sourdoughorotherrusticloaf3tablespoonsoliveoil60mldrywhitewine1garlicclove,crushedFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1lemon,pluslemonwedgestoserve(optional)Asmall

bunchofcoriander,leavesandstalksfinelychopped2x150gcuredcodfillets1largefennelbulbA large handful of green leaves, such as spinach, rocket or watercress (optional)

Extra-virginoliveoil,fordressingSeasaltflakes,groundwhitepepperandcrackedblackpepper

Preheattheovento190°C/Fan170°C/Gas5.Cutthecornbread intosmallchunks, then crumble them into coarse breadcrumbswith your hands (ifusingsourdough,thismaybeeasierinafoodprocessor).Inabowl,mixthebreadcrumbs with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, the white wine, garlic,lemon zest and coriander, and season with salt and white pepper. Themixtureshouldhavethetextureofawetdough.

Placethecodonabakingtrayandcompletelycoveritwiththebreadcrumbmixture. Bake for 20minutes, or until the cod is cooked through and thecrustisgoldenbrownandcrunchy.

Meanwhile,trimthefennelandthinlysliceitwithamandolinorsharpknifejustbeforeserving.Drizzle itwith theremainingoliveoilandseasonwithlemon juice, saltandcrackedblackpepper.Mix the leaves inabowlanddresswithextra-virginoliveoil, lemonjuicetotasteandsaltandcrackedblack pepper. Serve the cod with the fennel, green leaves and lemonwedgesontheside,ifyoulike.

Codbakedinacornbreadcrust

Alentejo-styleporkandclamsCarnedeporcoàalentejana

We’reknowninPortugalforourporkandclamdishes,andthisisthemostfamousone.Asachef,Ioftencombineseafoodandporkinthesamedish,whichsomepeoplefindunusualorevenunfathomable. Ialways smile when I hear this, as it’s considered perfectly normalbackhome.Thebrinyclamjuicesaddadelicioussavourinesstothemeat.Sautéedpotatoeswouldbegreatwithit.

Serves4

300gporkloinorneck,cutintosmallcubes2tablespoonsporkfat2bayleaves1garlicclove,smashed70mldrywhitewine,plusextraforcookingtheclamsAgenerouspinchofsmokedpaprika300gclams1tablespoonoliveoilFreshlysqueezedorangejuice,totaste,plusorangewedgestoserveAsmallhandful

ofcorianderleaves,finelychoppedExtra-virginoliveoil,toserveSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Inabowl,mixtheporkwiththeporkfat,bayleaves,garlic,whitewineandpaprika. Cover and leave tomarinate in the fridge for 6 hours, or ideallyovernight.

Rinsetheclamsunderrunningwateranddiscardanyopenones.Heattheoliveoilinalargepanoveramediumheat.Addtheporkandcookforafewminutes, turning it regularly, tocolour itevenlyallover.Whenthepork isalmostcooked,addtheclamsalongwithasplashofwhitewineandorangejuice. Cover and cook for 2 minutes, then discard any unopened clams.

Removethepanfromtheheat,stirinthecorianderandtosswell.Tasteforseasoninganddrizzlewithextra-virginoil.Servestraightfromthepanwithorangewedgesalongside.

Alentejo-styleporkandclams

MarinatedporkwithredpepperpasteLombodeporcoassadocommassadepimentão

This recipe is fantastic, thanks to the red pepper paste in themarinade,andrubbingtheporkwithextrapastemeansyougetanicecrustaroundthemeat.Iprefertouseafattyloinwiththestreakybitsstillattached;themeatshouldcookveryslowlysothatthefatmeltsgentlyandkeepstheporkmoist.ThisislovelyasaSundayroastwithsome fried potatoes and a sharp green salad, or perhaps thewatercressandorangesalad.It’salsogreatinthebifanasandwiches.You’llneedtomarinatetheporkforoneortwodaysinadvance.

Serves4–6

1.2kgporkloin,offthebone

1tablespoonporkfat,melted200gredpepperpaste4tablespoonsoliveoil5garliccloves,crushed1teaspoonsmokedpaprika100mlMadeira4bayleaves,roughlytorn20gbutterSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Rub theporkwitha little salt andpepperandchill it for 2hours.Put theporkinaroastingtin,thenmixtogethertheporkfat,redpepperpaste,oliveoil,garlic,paprikaandMadeiraandpouritoverthepork.Leavetheporktomarinate in the fridge overnight. (Ideally, I like tomarinate it for 2 days,making sure to rotate it a few times.) Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan180°C/Gas6.Pour2tablespoonswaterintotheroastingtin,scatterthebayleavesunderandontopoftheporkanddotthebutterontop.Coverwithkitchenfoilandroastfor30minutes,thenturntheoventemperaturedown

to170°C/Fan150°C/Gas3½androastfor2hours.Removethefoilforthelast20minutesofcookingtime.Removeand leavetorestfor20minutesbeforeserving.

Slow-bakedlambchanfanaChanfana

For chanfana, lamb is marinated in a clay vessel with all of theingredientsovernight,andthencookedinahotoven.Becauseofthelongmarinatingtimeandcooking, I liketouselambshoulder,whichwillhaveenoughfatonitand,asit’saworkingmuscle,iswellsuitedto this slow cooking. The red wine helps the meat break down somake sure you don’t skimp – always use wine that you would behappytodrink.Thisrecipeisperfectlytastystraightafteryoucookit,butitgetsevenbetterafterseveraldays.It’sniceservedwithboiledpotatoes.

Serves6

2kglambshoulder20gbutter2tablespoonsporkfat4garliccloves,peeledandsmashed6tablespoonsoliveoil2teaspoonssmokedpaprika2bayleaves,roughlytorn350–400mlredwine180gstreakysmokybacon,roughlychopped3whiteonions,slicedSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Seasonthelambwithsaltandpepperandputitinthedishyouwillbakeitin.Meltthebutterandporkfatinasmallpanoveralowheat.Inabowl,mixtogetherthefatwiththegarlic,4tablespoonsoliveoil,thepaprikaandthebay leaves.Pour themarinadeover the lambandaddenoughredwinetocover it completely. Marinate in the fridge for at least 8 hours, ideallyovernight.

Preheattheovento170°C/Fan150°C/Gas3½.Heattherestoftheoliveoilinapanoveramediumheat,addthebaconandcookuntilthefatmeltsandit is crispy. Put the bacon and onions under the lamb and cover it withkitchenfoil.Roastforabout3½hours,thenremovethefoilandroastfor20minutesmore,oruntilitistenderandalmostfallingoffthebone.Leavetorestforatleast15minutesbeforeserving.

GlazedduckricewithchouriçoandlardoArrozdepato

I’llneverforgetthefirsttimeIbrokethroughtheeggglazeofadishofduck rice with my fork. Traditionally, it’s baked in a shallowterracotta dish and the rice hides the duck legs beneath it. I havefinishedmyversionwithchouriçoand lardo,butyoucouldalsouseduckfat,duckheartsorfoiegras.Serveitwithagreensalad,simplydressed with olive oil, lemon juice and black pepper (rocket andwatercresswouldbenice,forapepperycontrasttotherichness).Ifyoufancyasweetbutacidicnote,servetheduckricewithsegmentsoforangeorclementine–thisishowweliketoeatitinPortugal.

Serves6

Fortheducklegs4ducklegs,skinon,bonein½smallfennelbulb,trimmedandroughlychopped1onion,roughlychopped1bananashallot,roughlychopped1carrot,roughlychopped1celerystick,roughlychopped1bayleaf5parsleystalksSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Fortherice4tablespoonsoliveoil½smallfennelbulb,trimmedanddicedintosmallpieces1onion,dicedintosmallpieces1bananashallot,dicedintosmallpieces1carrot,dicedintosmallpieces1celerystick,dicedintosmallpieces

50gchouriço(skinremoved),diced300g short-grain white rice, preferably Portuguese carolino, Japanese sushi or

Spanishbombarice80mlport,plusalittleextraifyoulike20mlbrandy,plusalittleextraifyoulike2stripsoforangezest

Tofinish1tablespoonoliveoil2eggyolks,beatenwithasplashofwater10thinsliceschouriço,skinremoved6thinsliceslardo

Tocooktheducklegs—Heatalargepanoveramedium-highheat.Seasontheducklegslightlywithsaltandpepperontheskinsideandputtheminthe pan, skin-side down. Cook until the fat has melted and the skin isgoldenbrownandcrispy,thenremovefromthepan.

Put the duck legs in a large pan with the fennel, onion, shallot, carrot,celery,bayleafandparsleystalks.Pourincoldwatertocover(about1litre,plusextraifneeded)andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Bringtotheboiloveramediumheatand, justwhen itstartstoboil, turntheheatdownto low.Cover and simmer gently for about 1 hour, or until themeat comes awayeasilyfromtheskin.Skimlightlytoremoveanyscumandsomeofthefat,butdon’tremoveallthefat,asit’simportantfortheflavour.

Remove theduck legsandset themaside tocool.Strainand reserve thecooking liquor, discarding the vegetables and aromatics. Once cooled,removetheduckmeatfromthebonesandfinelychopitalongwiththeskin,thensetaside.

Tocooktherice—Heattheoliveoilinalargepanoveramediumheat,addthefennel,onion,shallot,carrotandceleryandcookuntilcaramelised.Addthe diced chouriço and gently cook until the fat starts to melt and thesausageturnsgoldenbrown.Addthericeandcookfor2minutes,oruntillightly toasted,stirringso that thegrainsarecoatedwith fatand flavour.Pour in theportandbrandyandcook for 1–2minutesoverahighheat to

burn off the alcohol. Turn the heat down to medium and add enoughreservedduck-cookingliquortocovertherice,addingwaterifyouneedto.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandaddtheorangezest.

Cook over a low heat for 40minutes, stirring only occasionally, until thericeissoftbutnotfullybrokendown.Youdonotwantthericetobemushy,orthetextureofthedishwillbetoosoft.(Don’tstirittoomuch,asthiswilldrawoutthestarch,whichcanmake itgloopy.)Whentherice iscooked,tasteforseasoningandaddasplashmorebrandyandportifyoufancyit.Bearinmindthatyouwillputchouriçoandlardoontop,bothofwhicharesalty.

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6 while the rice is cooking.Removethericepanfromtheheatandstirinthechoppedduckmeatandskin.Lightlygreasethebaseofa largebakingdish– inPortugalweuseadeepterracottaone–witholiveoilandpourthericein.Brushthesurfacelightlywiththebeateneggyolksandarrangethechouriçoandlardoslicesacross the top. Bake for 5 minutes, or until it is golden brown and thechouriçoandlardohavecrispedup.Servestraightfromthebakingdish.

Glazedduckricewithchouriçoandlardo

Marinatedpot-bakedchickenFrangonapúcara

Frango na púcara is a tasty oven-roasted, one-pot chicken dish. ItcomesfromthetownofAlcobaça,northofLisbon,andistraditionallycookedinaterracottajug(acast-ironorearthenwarecasseroledishwith a heavy lid can be used instead). It is important to use a verygood-qualityorganicchickenforthis,onethathasspentitslifeeatinginthefield.Ideally,itshouldhavebeenhungforaboutaweektogiveit a gamier chicken flavour; if you can encourage your butcher totrack thisdown, youmay find it is a revelation.Thechicken is thenmarinated overnight before roasting. This is lovely with friedpotatoes.

Serves4

1x1.3kgfree-rangechicken100gbutter,melted4ripeplumtomatoes,chopped4tablespoonsoliveoil100mlwhitewine100mlport100mlbrandy,plusextratotaste5garliccloves,peeledandsmashed1tablespoonDijonmustard4bayleaves180gstreakysmokybacon,roughlychopped2onions,slicedAsmallbunchofparsleyleaves,finelychoppedSmokedpaprika,totasteSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Jointthechickeninto8pieces,oraskyourbutchertodoitforyou.Season

the chicken with salt, pepper and paprika. Combine the rest of theingredientstogethertomakeamarinadeandpourthisoverthechickeninthe dish you will roast it in. Leave to marinate for 6 hours, or ideallyovernight,inthefridge.

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Roast the chicken for 20minutes, then turn the oven down to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Continuecookingforanother40minutes,oruntil the juicesrunclear.Addanextrasplashofbrandyattheendofcooking,ifyoulike.

Removethechickenfromtheovenandleaveittorestfor10minutesbeforeserving.Servestraightfromthedishatthetable.

BeefskewerswithchouriçoandbayleavesEspetadasdecarnecomchouriçoelouro

Ihavea long-abidingmemoryofeatingkebabsofchouriçoandbeefthreadedtogetherontwigsfromabaytreeandcookedoverawoodfire.Theyweretrulyincredible:thescentofthebayleavesaddedanamazing aroma to the meat, and the smoky chouriço created theperfect balance of flavour and crunch. If you like, try replacing thebeefwiththickringsofveryfreshsquid–mareterra(surfandturf)isone of the best kebab combinations you can get. It’s really goodservedwithfriedcornmealandasimplewatercresssaladwithlotsofcrackedblackpepper.

Serves2

30gbutter,plusextraforbasting2garliccloves,finelycrushed1bayleaf2tablespoonsMadeira250gbeeffilletorsirloin,cutintomediumchunks1smallwhiteonion70gchouriço(skinremoved),cutinto2cmslicesAsmallhandfulofparsleyleaves,finelychoppedFreshlysqueezedjuiceof1smalllemonPiripirioil,toserve(optional)Seasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Soaksomewoodenskewers,ortwigsfromabaytreeifyouhavethem,inwaterovernight.Thiswillhelpstopthemburning.Meltthebutterinafryingpanoveralowheat,addthegarlic,bayleafandMadeiraandcookuntilthegarlic is fragrant. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature,thenpouritoverthebeef.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Leavetomarinateinthefridgeforatleast6hours,ideallyovernight.

Cuttheonioninhalfandseparateeachhalfoutintoindividualpetals.Put

theminabowl,coverwithwarmwaterandapinchofsaltandleavetosoakfor10–15minutes.Thiswillmaketheonionalittlelesssharp.

Dry theskewerswithkitchenpaper.Assembleeachone,startingwithanonionpetal,thenasliceofchouriço,thenapieceofbeef.Repeatuntiltheskewerisfull,leavingsomespaceattheendsothatyoucanpickitup.

Heat a large frying pan over a high heat and brush the pan with butter.Whenthepan ishot,addtheskewersandcookforabout2–3minutesoneach side, for medium-rare. Baste them regularly with butter duringcooking. Remove and leave them to rest. (If using a barbecue, sear theskewersonthehottestspotonthegrillforabout3minutes,thentransfertoacoolerspotandcookfor2minutesmore.Keepbastingthemwiththemeltedbutterastheycook.)Heatthecookingjuicesinthepan,thentakeitofftheheatandstirintheparsleyandlemonjuice.Pourthissauceovertheskewersbeforeserving.Ilovetoaddadrizzleofpiripirioil.

Beefskewerswithchouriçoandbayleaves

PigeonescabecheEscabechedepombo

Pigeon is not a gamebird youoften find inPortuguese restaurants,but it is served in some old lisboeta places. There, pigeons orpartridgesaretypicallycookedwithonions,garlic,port,vinegarandcinnamon, alongwith other spices. The richness and slightly sweetacidity,aswellasthewarmthofthecinnamon,offsetsthegameinessof the pigeon beautifully. The longer it sits submerged in its juicesaftercookingthebetter–evenforuptoaweek.Iliketoenjoyitjustaboveroomtemperaturewithplentyofcrustybread.

Serves4

2wholewoodpigeons,wishboneremoved(askyourbutcher)2tablespoonsoliveoil40gbutterExtra-virginoliveoil,toserve

Forthemarinade4tablespoonsoliveoil2garliccloves,crushed40mldrywhitewine1cinnamonstick2bayleavesSmokedpaprika,totasteSeasaltflakes,groundwhitepepperandcrackedblackpepper

Forthesauce100mloliveoil1smallwhiteonion,thinlysliced3garliccloves,crushed2bayleaves

1cinnamonstick2carrots,scrubbedandslicedinto2cmrounds1redpepper,deseededandcutintosmalldice50mlredwinevinegar

To marinate the pigeons—Put the pigeons in a bowl and coverwith themarinade ingredients. Seasonwith salt, paprika,white pepper and blackpepper.Leavetomarinateinthefridgeforafewhours.

To make the sauce—Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a pan over amediumheat.Addtheonionandcookgentlyuntilsoftwiththegarlic,bayleaves and cinnamon stick. Season with salt and white pepper. Add thecarrotsandredpepperandcookforafewminutes.Stirinthevinegarwiththerestoftheoliveoilandcookgentlyuntiltheredpepperisjustsoft.Ilikethe carrots to be a little bit crunchy. Remove from the heat and leave tomarinatewhileyoucookthepigeons.Tasteforseasoningaftermarinatingandfinishwithanextraglugofextra-virginoliveoil.

Preheattheovento200°C/Fan180°C/Gas6.Removethepigeonsfromthemarinade and gently pat them dry. Heat the 2 tablespoons olive oil in aheavy-based ovenproof pan over a medium heat and add the pigeons,breast-sidedown.Cookevenly,turningthemtogetagoldencolourallover.Addthebutterand,whenitfoams,useittobastethepigeons.Transferthepigeons,breast-sideup,totheovenandroastfor10–12minutes. (Ipreferthemeattobepink.Ifyoulikeitwelldone,cookforanother2–4minutes.)Baste halfway through cooking. Remove and rest for 5 minutes beforeserving.Toserve,placethepigeonsonthesauceandaddagenerousglugofextra-virginoliveoil.

Pigeonescabeche

GrilledcabbagewithgarlicbutterandcannellinibeansCouvegrelhadacomfeijãobranco

WeloveourbeansinPortugal–freshonesfromthegarden,aswellasallkindsofdriedbeansthatcametoourshoresfromtheNewWorld.Iprefer to use dried beans that I’ve soaked myself, but there’s noproblem with good-quality tinned beans. The creamy flavour andfluffy texture of these beans are lovely with the garlic butter andsmokygrilledcabbage.Butterbeanswouldalsoworkwell.

Serves2

100gdriedcannellinibeans(or400gtinnedcannellinibeans)Apinchofbicarbonateofsoda3bananashallots,1halved,1slicedand1diced3garliccloves,1halvedand2crushed1carrot,halved1celerystick,cutintochunks1bayleaf30gbutterAsmallhandfulofparsleyleaves,finelychoppedFreshlysqueezedlemonjuice,totaste1largesweetheartcabbage1tablespoonoliveoilSmokedpaprika,totasteSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Ifusingdriedbeans,soakthemovernightwith thebicarbonateofsoda inplenty ofwater. Rinse andplace in a panwith the halved shallot, halvedgarlicclove,carrot,celeryandbayleaf,andenoughwatertocover.Bringto theboil, skimmingoffany foam,andsimmer for45minutes–1hour,oruntiltender(thecookingtimewilldependontheageofthebeans).Remove

fromtheheatand leavetocool in thecooking liquid.Seasonthecookingliquidwhilethebeanscool.

Meltthebutterinapanoveralowheat.Addthecrushedgarlicandslicedshallotandcookgentlyfor5minutes.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

Drainthecookedortinnedbeans.Mixthemtogetherwiththedicedshallot,parsleyandasqueezeof lemon juice.Tasteandseasonwithsalt,pepperandpaprika.

Preheattheovento200°C/Fan180°C/Gas6.Removetheouterleavesfromthecabbageandcutitinhalflengthways.Heattheoliveoilinanovenproofgriddlepanoverahighheat.Addthecabbage,cut-sidedown,seasonwithsaltandpepperandroastfor3minutes,oruntilcaramelised.Turn itoverandcookfor2minutesontheotherside.Addasplashofwater,coverwithkitchen foil and roast for 5 minutes. Baste the cabbage with the garlicbutter and roast for another few minutes. Remove from the oven andsqueezeoveralittlelemonjuice.Iliketowarmthecannellinibeansthroughgently in thepanwith thecabbageandthenbringthepanto thetable toserve.

Grilledcabbagewithgarlicbutterandcannellinibeans

Vinhad’alhos-stylevegetablesLegumescomvinhad’alhos

Sadly, vegetables are often a bit of an afterthought in Portuguesegastronomy.They’reoftenovercookedoraddedtostewsthatwillbelongsimmered.Here,I’vechosentousevegetablesthatweknowandlove, giving them the vinha d’alhos (wine and garlic) treatment andresisting the temptation to add lots of meat. The result is thisdeliciousroasteddishthatcaneasilysitatthecentreofthetableandholditsown.

Serves2asamaincourseor4asasidedish

3redonions,cutintothickrings400gparsnips,halvedlengthways500gheirloomcarrots,halvedlengthways50gwalnuts3slicesday-oldbread,suchasciabattaorsourdough2tablespoonsoliveoilFinelygratedzestof1orangeFinelygratedzestof1lemonAsmallhandfulofparsleyleaves,finelychoppedExtra-virginoliveoil,toserveSeasaltflakes,groundwhitepepperandcrackedblackpepper

Fortheglaze150mlredwine,ideallyalighttomedium-bodiedredwinesuchasapinotnoir50ml

redwinevinegar,plusalittleextra(optional)50mlfreshlysqueezedorangejuice3garliccloves,smashed½teaspoontoastedcuminseeds,gentlycrushed50ghoney1cinnamonstick

Preheattheovento200°C/Fan180°C/Gas6.Puttheglazeingredientsinapanandcookoveramediumheatuntilthehoneydissolves.Becarefulnotto reduce theglaze toomuchat thisstage,as itwill reduce furtherwhilecooking.Setaside.

Puttheonionsinabakingdishlargeenoughtoallowthevegetablesplentyofroomtoroast,ratherthansteam(wewantthemtoroastforflavourandcolour).Sittheparsnipsandcarrotsontopoftheonionsandseasonwithsalt and white pepper. Pour the glaze over and mix well. Roast for 30minutes,oruntilcookedthroughandgoldenbrown.After15minutes,youcanremovethecinnamonstickifyoulike(Iprefertoleaveitin).Bastethevegetableswiththeglaze2or3timeswhilecooking. Ialso liketoaddanextrasplashofredwinevinegarhalfwaythroughforanacidickick.

Putthewalnutsonaseparatebakingtrayandbakeforafewminutesuntillightlytoasted.Roughlychopthemoncecooled.

Makethecroutonsbytearingthebreadintoroughbite-sizedpieces.Heatthe olive oil in a pan over amedium heat, add the bread and toast for 5minutes,oruntilcrispyandgoldenbrown.Putthecroutons inabowlandmixintheorangeandlemonzestandparsley.Seasonwithsaltandwhitepepper.

Once the vegetables are cooked, if the glaze seems too liquid you cansimmer it in a pan to reduce, then spoon it back over the vegetables.Sprinklethewalnutsandcroutonsoverthevegetablesandaddagenerousglugofextra-virginoliveoil,seasaltflakesandcrackedblackpepper.

Vinhad’alhos-stylevegetables

KalemigaswithmushroomsMigasdecouvefrisadaecogumelos

Migas is traditionallymade frombreadsoaked inmilkwhich is thengently toasted inanimal fatwith lotsofgarlicandseasonalgreens.The idea of eating soaked and fried bread may seem strange, butmigasisfantastic.Thebreadbaseisablankcanvasthatcantakeonother flavours–here I’veusedkale,corianderandgarlicandaddedmarinatedmushrooms.

Serves4

80gwhitebuttonmushrooms,thinlysliced50mlextra-virginoliveoil,plusextratoserve160gcornbead,sourdoughorotherrusticloaf,cutintocubes2tablespoonsoliveoil2tablespoonsporkfat2garliccloves,crushedAsmallbunchofcoriander,stalksandleavesfinelychopped100gkale,slicedSmokedpaprika,totasteSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Putthemushroomsinabowl.Pourontheextra-virginoliveoil,seasonwithsalt,pepperandpaprikaandstir.Setasidetomarinatewhileyoucookthemigas.

Putthebreadinanotherbowlandpouroverboilingwatertojustcoverit.Seasonwithsalt,pepperandpaprika,stirwellandsetaside.

Heattheoliveoilandporkfatinapanoveramediumheat.Addthegarlicandcoriander(reservingsomecorianderleavestogarnish,ifyoulike)andcookgentlyuntil fragrant. Increase theheatslightly,add thekaleand fryforafewminutesuntilitstartstowilt.Addthesoakedbreadandcookforabout 10minutes,pressing itdownwitha spatula.As it cooks,move the

breadaround to incorporate itwith thekaleand letany liquidevaporate.When it crisps around the edges, turn it over and continue to fry untilgolden brown. The final texture should be crispy on the outside and softinside,alittlelikebubbleandsqueak.

Transfer to a serving dish and spoon the marinated mushrooms on top.Serveimmediately.

Kalemigaswithmushrooms

BakedceleriacwithfennelandcorianderbrothCoentradadefunchoeraizdeaipo

Coentrada(literally‘withcoriander’)isatrulyfantasticpreparation.Ithas a similar flavour to some Chinese dishes: the acidity from thevinegar, thespiceofwhitepepper, thestrong friedgarlic taste, thefragranceof the fresh coriander and the lovely rich brothmake theconnection for me, and seem to demonstrate how Portugal’shistorical involvement with China has influenced Portuguesecooking.Althoughyoucanmakethisdishfromstarttofinishonthesameday,thefennelbrothwillhaveanevenmorebeautifulflavourifyoumakeitadayinadvance.

Serves4

1celeriac,skinon2tablespoonsoliveoil40ghazelnuts,toastedandchoppedSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Forthefennelbroth5tablespoonsoliveoil4garliccloves,crushedAsmallbunchofcoriander,stalksandleavesfinelychoppedseparately1largefennel

bulb,trimmedandsliced800mlvegetablestockorwaterFreshlysqueezedlemonjuice,totaste

Preheat theoven to 190°C/Fan 170°C/Gas5.Drizzle theceleriacwith theolive oil and season with salt and pepper. Wrap it in a loose parcel inkitchenfoil,leavingspaceforittosteam.Putonabakingtrayandbakefor1hour,oruntilcookedallthewaythrough.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolslightlybeforeslicing.Cutinto8piecesorwedgesandsetaside.

Roast thehazelnuts in theoven fora fewminutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Oncecooled,roughlychopthem.

Tomakethefennelbroth—Heat3tablespoonsoftheoliveoilinapanoveralowheat.Addthegarlicandcorianderstalks,seasonwithsaltandpepperand cook gently until fragrant. Add the fennel and cook gently for 10minutes, or until soft. Pour in the stock or water, bring to the boil, thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor30minutes.(Thisbrothisalsoaverygoodbaseforsoup:Iliketoblenditwithadashofcreamtomakealovelyfennelsoup). Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the chopped corianderleaves,alongwithadashoflemonjuice.

Heattheremainingoliveoilinapanoveramediumheat.Addtheceleriacpieces,flesh-sidesidedown,andcookoneachsidefor2minutes,oruntilgolden brown. Pour the broth into a serving dish with the celeriac andsprinklewiththehazelnuts.

Bakedceleriacwithfennelandcorianderbroth

JerusalemartichokesandcavolonerowithgarlicTupinambosecavolonerocomalho

Thisisnotaclassicdish,butitusesadistinctivePortuguese‘cookinglanguage’ and features our characteristically bold flavours. Theconfit garlic purée complements the rich, almostmeaty flavours oftheroastedJerusalemartichokesbeautifullyandhelpsbindthedishtogether.

Serves4

160mloliveoil,plusextrafordrizzling50g garlic cloves, peeled and leftwhole, plus 1 garlic clove crushed 2 tablespoons

singlecream400gJerusalemartichokes,halvedlengthways½redchilli,deseededandfinelychopped150gcavolonero,stalksdiscardedandleavesleftwholeFreshlysqueezedlemonjuice,totaste(optional)Seasaltflakesandcrackedblackpepper

Heattheoliveoilwiththegarlicinasmallpanoveralowheatto80–85°C,orjustbelowsimmeringpoint,ensuringthegarlicisfullysubmerged.Turnthe heat down to its lowest possible setting. Confit gently for about 2hours,oruntilthegarliciscompletelysoft.Strainandreservetheoil(youcanuseanyextraforcookingmeatandfish,orfordressings).Usingastickblender,blitzthegarlicwithjustenoughoftheoiltomakeasmoothpasteandstirinthecream.Ilovethispastespreadontoastwithcheese,andit’salsogreatwithpotatoes.

Preheattheovento200°C/Fan180°C/Gas6.PuttheJerusalemartichokesonabakingtray,mixwith2tablespoonsofthegarlicconfitoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Roast,cut-sidedown,for30minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Heat2tablespoonsoftheconfitgarlicoilinapanoveramediumheat.Add

thecrushedgarlicandchilliwithalittlebitofsaltandcookgentlyuntilsoft.Increase the heat, add the cavolo nero and fry for a fewminutes. Add asplashofwater,coverandsteamfora fewminutesuntilcookedthrough.AddtheroastedJerusalemartichokesandadrizzleofoliveoilandcookfor2minutes.Tasteandseason,addingasqueezeoflemonjuiceifyoulike.

Iliketospreadagenerousamountofgarlicpasteoneachplateandputtheartichokes and cavolo nero on top so that the vegetable juices combinewiththegarlic.Youcouldalsoservethegarlicpasteontheside.

Jerusalemartichokesandcavolonerowithgarlic

MushroomswithAlentejo-stylechickpeasCogumeloscompurédegrãoàalentejana

ThemushroomseasonismuchenjoyedinLisbonanditsrestaurants.Ihavestucktoonlyafewvarietiesofmushroominthisrecipe,whichmeans itcanbemadethroughouttheyear,but ifyoutrythisduringmushroomseason,gocrazyandsautéasmanydifferentmushroomsas you can find! The purée is based on another commonly usedingredient in Portuguese cooking: the lovely chickpea. It is super-tastyandwillalmostcertainlyfinditswayintomanyotherdishesinyourkitchen.

Serves2asamaincourse,or4asasidedish

Forthechickpeapurée2tablespoonsoliveoil1onion,diced2garliccloves,crushed200gtinnedplumtomatoes1 x 400g tin good-quality chickpeas, drained (liquid reserved); or 160g dried

chickpeas,soakedandcookedasdescribedhere(cookingliquidreserved)Freshlysqueezedlemonjuice,totaste

Extra-virginoliveoil,toserveSmokedpaprika,totasteSeasaltflakesandgroundwhitepepper

Forthemushrooms3tablespoonsoliveoil150gwholeportobellomushrooms20gbutter1garlicclove,crushed150goystermushroomsAsplashofdrywhitewine

Asmallhandfulofparsleyleaves,roughlychoppedFreshlysqueezedlemonjuice,totaste

To make the chickpea purée—Heat theoliveoil in a panover amediumheat.Add theonionandcook for 10minutes, or until soft.Add thegarlicandcookforafewminutes,untilfragrant.Seasonwithseasalt,pepperandpaprika.Addthetomatoesandincreasetheheattocookuntilcaramelised.Lookatthepanandseehowthevegetablesarereacting:youshouldhearthem sizzling, not stewing, and you should start smelling thecaramelisation. Add the chickpeas and cook to toast them for a fewminutes. Pour in 150–200ml of the chickpea liquid and bring to the boil.Reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor20minutes,oruntilthechickpeasarestartingtofallapart.Tasteforseasoningandaddadashoflemonjuice.Removethepanfromtheheatandpuréewithastickblender.(Idon’tlikeacompletely smooth texture, so I only blend it briefly.) To cook themushrooms — Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over a high heat.Seasonthemushroomswithsaltandpepper.Whenthepanishot,addtheportobellomushroomsandcookfor3minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrown.Removethemfromthepan.Reducetheheattolow,addthebutterand garlic and cook gently until soft and fragrant. Return the portobellomushroomsto thepan. Increasetheheat tomedium, thenaddtheoystermushrooms and cook quickly for aminute or two, basting themwith thebutter.Addthewineandcookforanotherminute.Removethepanfromtheheat and stir in the parsley with a squeeze of lemon juice. Drizzle thechickpeapuréewithextra-virginoliveoilandapinchofpaprikaandserveitalongsidethemushrooms.Eatstraightaway.

MushroomswithAlentejo-stylechickpeas

PotatoeswithcaramelisedonionsandmeltingcheeseBatatasàmurrocomcebolaequeijofundido

This is a simple but lovely dish that combines three absolutePortuguesefavourites:potatoes,onionsandcheese.Ifyoucan’tfindqueijodaSerracheese,tryÉpoisses,StinkingBishoporMontd’Or,orevengratedGruyère.IfyouhappentogetholdofqueijodaSerra,youmayjustwanttoincreasetheamount,dependinghowmuchyoulovestinky, melting cheese. I sometimes eat a whole bowl of this,accompaniedbynothingmorethanaglassofwine.

Serves4

400gpotatoes,suchasMarisPiperorsimilar,skinon2garliccloves,smashed1bayleaf3tablespoonsoliveoil2onions,thinlyslicedSherryvinegar,totaste(optional)80gqueijodaSerra,oranotherfull-flavouredsoftcheeseSeasaltflakes,groundwhitepepperandcrackedblackpepper

Cook the potatoes in a pan of boiling saltedwater until tender. Remove,drainandallowtocoolslightly.Preheattheovento220°C/Fan200°C/Gas7.Whenthepotatoesarecooltotouch,smashthemlightlywithyourfist.Put them in an ovenproof dish with the garlic and bay leaf, pour 2tablespoonsof theoliveoil on topand stir to ensure theyare thoroughlycoated.Seasonwithsaltandwhitepepperandbakefor20–25minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownandcrispy.

Meanwhile,heat the remainingoil inapanovera lowheat, thenadd theonionsandseasonwithsaltandwhitepepper.Cookgentlyforabout10–15minutes, or until very soft and translucent. To speed up the cooking

processyoucancovertheonionswithacartouche.Createacartouchebyfoldingasquareofbakingparchment tomakea thin triangle.Holding thetrianglewiththethinpointoverthecentreofthepan,cuttheotherendoffsothatisslightlylongerthantheradiusofthepan.Unfoldit,crumpleitanddampen it lightlywithwater, thenplace itontopof theonionsandcoverwithalid.Whenit’sready,trysqueezingapieceofonion;itshouldbeverysoftandtastesweet. Increasetheheatandlettheonionscarameliseandturn golden brown, stirring to stop them sticking. Remove the cartoucheandsetaside.Addasplashofsherryvinegarfora littlebitofaciditythatcutsthroughthecheese,ifyoulike.

Take the potatoes out of the oven and scatter the onions and spoon orscatterthecheeseontop.Returnthedishtotheovenandcookuntilgoldenbrownandbubbling.Removefromtheovenandservestraightaway.Ilovetosprinklealittlecrackedblackpepperontopwhileit’shot.

Potatoeswithcaramelisedonionsandmeltingcheese

Discoveries

I’m standing at a stall in the bustling vegetable market at Lisbon’sMercado da Ribeira where piri piri chilli peppers are hanging inbunches, their bright red colour warning of the fire within. Looking atthese essential ingredients in Portuguese cooking, I find myselfreflecting on how they first came to our larders. Along with blackpepper, cinnamon, cloves, ginger and nutmeg, piri piri became popular inthe sixteenth century, when Portuguese navigators brought them home fromtheir ocean adventures. It was a period known as the Age of Discovery,and indeed the New World offered plants and vegetables that would changethe European diet forever when they first arrived here: tomatoes,potatoes, maize, peppers, peanuts and exotic fruits that turned ourtaste buds upside down.

From the market, I walk along nearby Rua do Arsenal and step into one ofthe little old-fashioned grocery shops there, a mercearia in which clothsacks are filled with dozens of different pulses that originated insouth and central America and Africa. All kinds of new beans began tofill Portuguese shelves during the sixteenth century because they wereeasily transportable when dried and a great source of protein, fillingand cheap – and to this day they are a mainstay of our cooking. Thereare also giant bags of short-and long-grain rice. Seeing them like thismakes me think of how rice was introduced to the Iberian peninsula inthe eighth century by the Moors, when it was a rarity only reallyenjoyed by the rich. It was not until the Discoveries, when vastquantities of rice came back from Asia, that it became a staple, becauseit was easily cultivated in lagoon paddies in central and southernPortugal. Lining the shelves are other goods brought to us during thisamazing period: coffee, tea, chocolate and probably the biggest foodimport of all – sugar.

When the Moors first invaded Portugal they brought with them almonds,citrus fruits, figs and a cooking pot known as a cataplana (a shell-shaped vessel of two halves that clip together, and which acts like akind of pressure cooker). I imagine that our taste for spices began withthe Moors, but it wasn’t until they were made more affordable by theAtlantic sea missions that they became key ingredients in Portuguesecuisine.

Portugal’s overseas conquests began in 1415 when Prince Henry theNavigator became fascinated with the idea of exploring the coast ofAfrica. He dispatched his galleons on incredible voyages and within fiveyears the beautiful, verdant island of Madeira was found. With Henry’snephew, King John II, the era known as the Age of Discovery reallybegan, along with Portugal’s dominance of global trade routes. Johncreated a Council of Scholars to help draw up plans for Portugal to findnew territories across the seas, and promoted a campaign ofmisinformation to throw competing foreign adventurers off track. Lisbonwas teeming with spies desperate to learn details of sea routes or maybecatch sight of Portugal’s new maps, but stories of dragons and unicornsand man-eating snakes abounded, all of it fantastical propaganda thatwouldn’t be out of place in the storybooks I read to my kids.

As more new countries were discovered, great treasures were brought backto Lisbon and it soon became the richest city in Europe, if not theworld. It was abuzz with investors, missionaries and mercenaries, allfocussed on the trade flowing in along the River Tejo, which allowedships to dock just a few miles from the heart of town. The influences ofthe New World adventures could be seen everywhere: in cooking, inarchitecture and in the faces of the people who came to live there.

The ambition to expand territory across the sea was insatiable,motivated first by geography – with its back to Spain, Portugal hadnowhere else to go but out into the Atlantic – and second by the factthat the country was almost bankrupt. Opening the seas would allow thepursuit of gold and incredibly lucrative spices. European cooks enjoyedthe exotic flavours that were now increasingly available, as well as theopportunity to show off wealth and status by using them – at the time,some spices were worth thousands of times more than in the places wherethey had been grown. For years Venice was the very centre of Europe’sspice market, but if Lisbon could take its place the treasury wouldsurely spill over. And it did. The story goes that when the Portugueseexplorer Vasco da Gama opened up the sea route to India in 1498, asingle ship loaded with cinnamon was valuable enough to cover the wholecost of his expedition. In the end, Portugal became wealthier thananyone could ever have imagined and headed up a four-continent empire.It was the country that gave rise to modern globalisation, linkingEurope with Asia and the rest of the world through trade routes to WestAfrica, India, China, Brazil and Japan. By the sixteenth century,Portugal had the largest high-seas fleet in Europe.

These seafaring exploits were a two-way passage in cookery terms. We

took our recipes overseas – our refogado stew base forms the backbone ofthe cuisine in Portuguese-speaking countries such as Brazil and Angola –but we brought back theirs too. One of my favourite things, our spicychamuças, are a perfect example of a culinary hybrid, a rich legacy ofthe Portuguese introduction of savoury pastéis to India, where spiceswere added to create the triangular samosas that are now almostuniversal. Goanese vindalho (vindaloo) comes from our vinha d’alhos, awine and garlic marinade, with the wine replaced by vinegar, which ismore readily available in India. The Alphonso mangoes grown in westernIndia are named after Afonso de Albuquerque, the naval commander whoestablished Portuguese colonies there; because of his explorers’ green-fingered grafting skills, the world’s sweetest mango was born. Back inPortugal, we developed recipes that included these previously unknowningredients – a perfect example is piri piri sauce, made fiery withchillies from Angola and Mozambique.

In pursuit of spices, the Portuguese set out to control trade in theMoluccas in Indonesia, now known as the Maluku archipelago and oncesimply dubbed the Spice Islands because they were the world’s biggestsource of high-quality nutmeg, mace and cloves. We ruled Sri Lanka, thencalled Ceylon, for more than a century and this was the main source ofthe best cinnamon, without a doubt our country’s favourite spice.Although we have pursued seasonings in many corners of the world, weactually use them very sparingly in the kitchen. You’ll find that it’sonly cinnamon (canela) that is scattered prodigiously in Portuguesecooking and that other aromatics are added lightly, giving just a subtlehint of flavour to a dish.

The thing that made the Discoveries possible was the caravel, a shipthat used a different design from the galleons previously deployed onthe high seas. Powered by sails rather than oarsmen, these new vesselsrequired a smaller crew and their food supplies would stretch further,meaning they could spend more time at sea. Able to sail windward,caravels were fast and agile, just like the new nautical technology onboard: the astrolabe, the compass and the Portalan chart. They wereremarkable ships.

In modern Portugal you don’t have to look very far to find traces ofthis past. Our obsession with coffee comes from the Discoveries, ofcourse, when we realised that the coffee beans of Ethiopia would alsogrow fantastically well in the Portuguese colonies of Angola, Brazil,East Timor and São Tomé and Príncipe. On a recent visit to one ofEurope’s last remaining wood-fired coffee roasteries, Flor da Selva in

Lisbon’s traditional Madragoa neighbourhood, I noticed that all thehessian sacks are printed with the names of these countries, where thebeans inside are still grown. Every time I think of the Discoveries andthose brave adventurers heading out across the ocean it blows my mind.But there’s no denying that conquering other nations involved murder,brutality and astonishing inhumanity and I can’t help but feel deepshame that Portugal played such an enormous part in this. We were thefirst nation to engage in the Atlantic slave trade, tearing men andwomen from Africa and shipping them to the New World, where they weretreated barbarically. The Portuguese built the first slave fort, ElminaCastle, on the coast of what is now Ghana. By the seventeenth century,Portugal was the major trader in African slaves, supplying not onlytheir own colonies, but the Spanish too. Slavery was abolished inPortugal in 1761 and across the empire in 1836, but many Portuguesepeople continued the trade for decades.

I feel torn when I think of the Portuguese-speaking countries around theworld, like Brazil, Macau and Angola, because I know that before thecaravels arrived, the people there spoke another language. And yet Ialso find it remarkable that a small nation like Portugal could havesuch a huge impact on the world, bringing so many edible treasures backhome to become part of Europe’s culinary landscape.

I find it hard to imagine what life looked like during the Discoveries,so I sometimes go to the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga in the Lapa areaof Lisbon. I head upstairs and, among the cases filled with bountybrought back by Portuguese navigators, seek out four gloriouslydecorated panels known as the Namban Folding Screens. These depict thearrival of the Portuguese in the port of Nagasaki in the sixteenthcentury. I like to study the faces and costumes of the Europeans, called‘southern barbarians’ by the Japanese, with their exaggerated featuresand clothes, large noses and moustaches and voluminous pantaloons,things the Japanese people had never seen before. There’s a festiveatmosphere as the opulent cargo is unloaded on shore: people ride onelephants and are carried in palanquins, there are Jesuit missionariesand merchants and explorers. I like to imagine the feast that mightunfold, at which the food of Portugal is about to meet that of Japan –two cuisines I adore.

At other times I walk along the Tejo at sunset to watch the dying lighthit the rose-tinted stone of the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, a statue inthe shape of the prow of a caravel that celebrates the Discoveries.Henry the Navigator is to the front, and sixteen other figures –

missionaries, scientists, artists, cartographers and explorers – aregathered behind him. And although this 56-metre-high structure, builtduring the Salazar dictatorship, exudes nationalism, it does make memarvel at what these men did, as I stand here at the very point wherePortuguese ships began their journeys across the Atlantic. They changedthe world forever, and brought it to our doorstep.

CaféCulture

Cafés are part of the very fabric of Lisbon – not just physically butemotionally, too. From elaborate Art Nouveau establishments to the mostbasic little pastelarias (pâtisseries) with a few metal chairs andformica tables, they play a crucial part in everyday life here. They area place for people to meet, chat, exchange ideas or sit quietly incontemplation of the world, through the window or with a newspaper.

Whether they arrive with the intention of lingering or simply ofspending a few minutes at the counter with a bica, most lisboetas visita café or pastelaria almost every day. A bica is much like an espresso,slightly larger in volume though still served in a very small cup andusually drunk black. You can also ask for um café cheio, basically abica topped up with hot water; um carioca, which is like an Americano;um galão, a long coffee with a lot of milk, usually served in a glass;or um garoto, which is the same size as a bica but is half coffee andhalf hot milk. A pingado or bica pingada is a bica with just a touch ofmilk. If it’s your first time in Lisbon you’ll want to seek out ABrasileira, an iconic café that opened its glass-paned doors in 1905 andwas once a magnet for the country’s best writers, including our mostfamous poet, Fernando Pessoa. His statue sits cross-legged outside onthe terrace, which is a nice spot to rest and absorb the comings andgoings of the Chiado neighbourhood, but you really must step inside toappreciate the full glory. Carved redwood panels line the walls,intersecting with vast mirrors, and lovely brass hand and foot rails runalong the counter. Of course, it’s a tourist trap – it couldn’t help butbe anything else with its history and its prime location in the heart ofhistoric Lisbon, but it’s a gem all the same.

Another classic of the era is Café Versailles, a little way out of thecentre in the Saldanha neighbourhood. It’s modelled on the French palaceof the same name and, as you might imagine, is incredibly ornate. Again,mirrors and mouldings are everywhere and the waiters are old-school, allliveried up and rather touchingly formal. My friend Célia Pedroso, ajournalist who now leads food tours all over the city, swears that thisplace has the best pastéis de nata (custard tarts) anywhere and, giventhat she’s a total pastry addict, I’m inclined to believe her.

Of course, anyone coming to Lisbon for the first time is bound to make a

pilgrimage to Pastéis de Belém, the café that gave birth to the famouspastéis. They are said to make more than 20,000 custard tarts a day, andthe recipe is still a secret. The pastries were first produced in 1837from a recipe passed on from the next-door monastery, Mosteiro dosJerónimos. Although I don’t personally feel that these are the bestpastéis in the city, I still recommend a visit to the warren of roomsdecorated in blue-and-white tiles depicting seventeenth-century life,where you can watch through a glass window as the pastéis are made.

Café culture in Lisbon grew out of the ashes of a terrible earthquake in1755, when the forward-thinking prime minister, the Marquis de Pombal,encouraged new cafés to open and supported the notion that they couldbecome a place where intellectuals, writers and artists could gettogether to engage in debate, or sometimes heated argument. This kind ofsocial gathering was known as a tertúlia, almost like a literary salon,and they were – no surprises here — a male stronghold. But the Salazardictatorship discouraged people from meeting in groups and so from 1932to 1974 this open merging of minds and ideas over coffee was stifled.

This sad suffocation extended to the beautiful quiosques (kiosks) thatyou see all over Lisbon. Created in iron, the design of many quiosquesreflects our Moorish history, and are adorned with beautiful filigreelatticework awnings and decorative domes. The first was erected in themain square at Rossio in 1869, and they then began to appear all aroundthe city. They sold food, drink, cigarettes and newspapers, and were aperfect way to combine the lisboeta love of outdoor life with ourpassion for just being together. All this changed during Salazar’sEstado Novo (New State) and even when the dictatorship was over, thesebeautiful structures stayed shuttered up and in decline until abouteight years ago. But then, quite brilliantly, some young and excitingentrepreneurs decided that the quiosques should be revived and now thereare 100 of them up and running again all across the city. Some of themhave miradouros (golden views) looking out across Lisbon. One of themost popular is located in the middle of the Praça de Luís de Camões inChiado; my own favourite is perhaps the one in Jardim Botto Machado,right in the middle of the Feira de Ladra (literally, ‘thieves’market’), a flea market that folds itself out onto the streets allaround this area on Tuesdays and Saturdays. It was here that I ate thealmond and orange tart that inspired the recipe here.

On a hot Lisbon day or night, one of the best things you can do is finda quiosque under the fragrant purple blossoms of a jacaranda tree andsit with an iced porto tónico, the typically Portuguese drink of white

port served with tonic and ice. Back in 1867, the building applicationfor that very first quiosque asserted that the structure’s duty wassimply to ‘beautify the street’. To my mind, the quiosques of Lisbonbeautify not only the street, but also the daily lives of lisboetas.

Tascas

For much of Lisbon’s population, tascas are the heart and soul of thesocial life. They are small restaurants, a bit like a local pub, whichmany locals visit nearly every day. Almost everyone is loyal to theirfavourite tasca, and for legions of lisboetas it’s a kind of second home– they’ll come in on their own but sit down at a table and eat withother regulars, just like a family. Some – particularly older people –will arrive clutching plastic Tupperware boxes and take the food backhome to eat. In one tasca, Casa Cid, I remember watching as the waiteruntied a bib from a customer’s neck and removed it for him. There was atouching paternal intimacy about it that confirmed my belief that theseplaces are as much about personal relationships as they are about thecooking – this is service, old style.

Every day there are specials, such as cozido à portuguesa (a meat andvegetable stew; cozido simply means ‘cooked’) and feijoada (a bean andmeat stew), more often than not served in enormous portions on an ovalmetal platter. Both of these are authentically rustic and contain manycuts of meat, including bones, so don’t be surprised to find pigs’ earsand bits of cartilage if you order them. The specials of the day will bewritten in marker pen on paper tablecloths and pinned up outside. Thequality of the food varies, of course, but there are some trulyexcellent tascas, and what they all have in common is that they’recheap: you can have bread, a starter, a main course, a dessert and aglass of inexpensive (sometimes rough!) wine for less than 15 euros.Some tascas are known for a particular special that creates a cultfollowing and a queue right out of the door – if you hear of one, makesure you get there well before 1 o’clock or you’ll have little chance ofgetting in. Squeeze in beside the people in suits, hi-vis building sitejackets and hipster beards.

Often small and roughly decorated, tascas usually have zinc on the bar,strip lights on the ceiling and sometimes a ‘feature’ sink in the wallfor hand-washing right in the middle of the dining room. In Lisbon, manytascas are tribal and profess their love of the local football teamBenfica or its rival, Sporting, by hanging dozens of football scarves onthe wall. At Stop do Bairro in Campo de Ourique there are footballshirts, flags and scarves everywhere, and the food is great. The name

means ‘neighbourhood stop’, which sums up what a tasca is. The tablesare crammed together, but that just means you can see what other peopleare eating, which makes ordering that bit easier. Like any trulyterrific tasca, they cook amazing chips from good floury potatoes in hotoil, always with a beautiful yellow colour. I loved their version oftoucinho do céu, an almond cake whose name literally means ‘bacon ofheaven’. The best tascas are always a bit of a trek from the centraltouristy area of historic Lisbon and this one is no exception, but it’sworth it.

Venture into some of the old districts like Mouraria or Alcântara andyou’ll find tascas with grit, character and history. In Graça, on top ofLisbon’s highest hill, I was allowed into the tiny kitchen at O Cardosodo Estrela de Ouro early one morning to see the two women cooks preparefor the very long day ahead. Dona Laura Cardoso uses a traditionalelectric branding iron to caramelise the top of her leite creme –Portuguese crème brûlée – while keeping her eye on vast bubbling potsand frying some of the best croquetes de carne (meat croquettes) I’vetasted in Lisbon. She’s helped by Dona Emilia, who hails from Minho inthe north, and always sings while she works. Like most women in tascakitchens, their hair is scooped up in a hat with a net at the back.Front of house, Senhor Cardoso scuttles between the tables, the kitchen,the bar and the montra (window display), bringing fish to show thecustomers. At midday, just before the lunchtime rush, they all sit downtogether at a table and eat, often joined by a few late-morningregulars.

Tascas began life as charcoal shops (carvoaria) in the days whencharcoal was the main fuel used in the city because it was easilytransported up and down the coast and rivers. Senhor Cardoso explainsthis to me with a laugh: ‘The person who was going to carry charcoalneeded wine before humping it on their back – then they started offeringsalgadinhos (small savoury snacks) to go with the wine. And then, in the1980s, when tascas stopped selling charcoal we expanded into lunch anddinner.’

From late spring onwards the tascas sell caracóis (small snails). Westart eating them on 1 May in celebration of Labour Day, and from thenuntil about September you’ll see hand-written signs all over the cityproclaiming Há caracóis! – We have snails! These are not like Frenchescargots at all; they’re much smaller and much cheaper. Peasant food,in essence, that came to the city and started a craze. Lisboetas love tosit with a cold beer – the glass must come from the fridge – and a plate

piled with the things, poking them with pins until the meat comes out.Snails might freak you out but they’re fun to eat – if you feel shyorder a pires (small plate), or go full-on Portuguese and get a travessa(big plate). Caracóis are cooked in a spicy, salty broth scented withoregano, chilli, garlic, bay leaf, white pepper and sometimes coriander,and they absorb all of this so that each snail becomes a little umamibomb of flavour. I love to mop up the juices with a chunk of good bread.We also enjoy eating tremoços (lupin beans) with our beer. Like thesnails, the beans are cooked in a salty brine. You break the shell likea broad bean, with your teeth, and you squeeze the yellow seed inside itinto your mouth.

Many tascas – particularly those in the Alfama and Mouraria districts –are associated with fado, the maudlin Portuguese style of music thatbegan around 1820 and is still popular today. It’s melancholic folkmusic, usually sung by a solo artist accompanied by guitar. I’m not muchof a fan, if I’m being honest, because I think our country was a sadplace for too long and I don’t like to be reminded of it by these songs,which are almost always complaining; many of my countrymen and ourvisitors love it, though. To me, tascas are a celebration of food andcommunity, so you’ll find me in a rustic one – one without the fado,with people chatting and laughing and loving just being together – withan icy cold imperial beer and a plate of goodness in front of me.

Fish

Lisbon is blessed as a city. Not only does it sit right by the RiverTejo, but also the Atlantic ocean, and its bounty is right on ourdoorstep. This means that spankingly fresh fish can be on the table justa few hours after being caught: sardines and mackerel still vibrantlyblack, blue, green, yellow and silver. Portugal is obsessed with fishand despite being a really small country we’re third in the world –behind only Iceland and Japan – in terms of how much we eat, consumingalmost 62 kilograms per person every year. A perfect mix of cold watertemperature, light and salinity mean that we have a fabulous diversityof seafood in our waters, as well as great plankton and vegetation forthem to feast on. This, in turn, makes the fish dense in flavour.

In Lisbon, the types of fish caught on the nearby coast are sardinhas(sardines), cavalas (mackerel) and carapau (horse mackerel). Carapau arepretty much unknown in the UK and often underrated elsewhere, but theflesh is sweeter and less fatty than ordinary mackerel. Most of oursardines are caught around Peniche, just over 100 kilometres north ofLisbon, along with lots of other species. This is a little too far fromLisbon for a day trip, but you can see fishing on a slightly smallerscale when you take the train to nearby Cascais early in the morning andgreet the fishermen coming in. Excited seagulls signal their arrival,screaming and circling around the boats as they head back to theharbour. The men unload their haul onto carts that are wheeled away tothe nearby auction house, where they follow an unusual bidding process:the auctioneer starts at an outrageously high price, which then comesdown dramatically until someone is willing to pay what he considers isthe right sum.

Cascais is most famous for polvo (octopus), caught using a special potcalled an alcatruz that tempts the cephalopod in but makes it very hardfor it to get back out again. Once these were moulded out of clay, butthey are now made from plastic, and so are not very good for theenvironment. Almost all the boats in Cascais are dedicated to catchingoctopus. You used to see men beating them on stones to tenderise them,but nowadays the freezer, which does an equally good job of softeningthe flesh, makes light of such work.

I love the brotherhood of the fishermen, how they sit down together

every lunchtime at outdoor tables to eat seafood they brought in thatmorning. They cook it incredibly simply, grilling or perhaps lightlysteaming it, so that the flavour of the sea is the star of the show.

As a child, I spent many summer days on the southern beaches on the farside of the Ponte de 25 Abril – the beautiful bridge that spans the Tejo– where they use an unusual method of fishing called arte Xávega. Twosmall boats will go across the waves and set out nets in a conicalshape. In the past, oxen were used to help drag the nets in once theywere full, but now tractors pull them onto the sand, along with a teamof men and women. The sight of the fish being hauled in like this is aspectacle that usually draws a crowd. To be honest, seeing the poorthings thrashing about in the nets, taking their last breath, is notsomething I relish. It seems cruel to me because it is not a clean kill,and far too many small fish are caught up in the process. As a chef, Ialso think this method ends up bruising the flesh, and I can tell if thefish I’m cooking has been caught this way. It makes me sad, but it is anold tradition and I respect that; as much as I would prefer the line-caught method, I know it is not always possible and can be expensive.And I admire the fishermen, who are, after all, the ones risking theirlives to fulfil our insatiable craving for fish.

At Fonte da Telha, a very long, sandy beach where they use this method,the fishing season runs from March until October or November. Thespecies in a catch will always depend on the time of year, the watertemperature and the condition of the sea. The workers sort through thepiles, throwing the fish into different crates according to theirspecies and size. These workers are covered from head to toe in scalesand if you happen to be nearby when they pull the nets in, you will betoo. Luis Miguel fishes here with a team of 21 people all summer, and inthe high heat of the late afternoon they’re dressed in rubbery bib-and-brace trousers. ‘This is a very old-school type of fishing, only done onthe Atlantic coast south of Lisbon,’ he says. ‘I love it because everyday we spend seven or eight hours on the beach. We have to be cleverbecause the fish make every effort to avoid the nets. Some days theysucceed.’

One of the totemic symbols of Lisbon is the varina, a barefoot woman intraditional dress with a big basket – a canasta – of fish on her head.Not so long ago, the varinas would sell their wares from door to door,so we didn’t have to go to the market to buy our fish. We would eat whatwas in season, knowing that our trusted varina was selling the best ofthe day’s catch. Sadly, this tradition has now been lost. Instead, we

turn to a reliable fishmonger and mine is Açucena Veloso, who has workedat the Mercado 31 de Janeiro in the Saldanha neighbourhood for 55 years.Jewels of the sea shimmer on her vast, amazing stall. Scabbard fish(peixe espada) resemble silver belts and their brothers, black scabbardfish (peixe espada preto), are inky and evil-looking with razor-sharpteeth. There’s sea bream (besugos), hake (pescadas), red mullet(salmonete) and red scorpion fish (rascasso), which seems more like asculpture in coral than something you’d eat – but we do, boiling it,then shredding and serving the meat with mayonnaise to make it just assublime as lobster. I’m always drawn to the tuna because it’s a fish Iadore, and here it’s so dark and meaty it looks like steak. There areoctopuses (polvos), cuttlefish (chocos), clams (amêijoas), mussels(mexilhões), razor clams (lingueirões) and sweet, juicy prawns(camarões), which are some of the best in the world, especially the oneslanded in the Algarve.

And then there are percebes, or goose-necked barnacles, which look likealiens’ fingers, have the texture of an old handbag and have a kind ofhoof on the end. You’ll only find them in Portugal and other parts ofthe southwestern Mediterranean. Don’t be scared of them – they haveambrosial treasure within. You eat the inner tube, and to get to it youneed to pinch the outside, make a little hole and pull. I’m not going tolie – they’re hard to get to, but once you’ve mastered the trick itbecomes second nature. Their essence is sealed inside them when they’relightly boiled, ready to burst out into your mouth. Watch out for yourclothes, though: the juices have a habit of squirting all over you.

Percebes cling to rocks, down which hunters clamber, or onto which theyjump from boats. In thrashing Atlantic seas, it can be a very dangerousbusiness but percebes are almost as prized as caviar, and so earn a goodprice for these brave souls. They’re called goose-necked barnacles inEnglish because people in the Middle Ages believed they were embryonicbarnacle geese, quietly developing into fledglings on the rocks thatwould eventually hatch and fly away. This was all in the days before weknew about migration, of course.

Portuguese people are completely infatuated with bacalhau (salt cod),which is almost a national symbol. It’s called the fiel amigo (faithfulfriend), and the country is so loyal in return that there are said to bemore than 365 different ways to cook it. Portugal is a Catholic country,so the tradition of abstaining from meat on Fridays and in the run-up tomajor feast days means that people often used to turn to bacalhau. It’salso eaten on Christmas Eve, when bacalhau de Consoada comes with

potatoes, chickpeas, cabbage and hard-boiled eggs. (I must say, though,that my own family never stuck to this; we used to eat suckling pig,turkey or cabrito, young goat, instead.)

The Portuguese love of salted cod goes back many centuries. The Vikingsare believed to have been the first people to preserve cod, and theybrought the method with them when they came to Portugal in the ninthcentury, drawn to the country’s northern salt plains. In the latefifteenth century, Portuguese fishermen set sail around Newfoundland’sGrand Banks to fish for cod, which grew steadily in popularity. Duringthe Discoveries era, when Portuguese ships set sail for every corner ofthe globe, salt cod was loaded into the hold as a valuable, lightweight,easily stored form of protein that would sustain a crew on their lengthyvoyage.

Centuries later, the Portuguese dictatorship known as Estado Novo, whichhad begun in 1933, started heavily promoting the consumption of cod. Theregime launched a ‘cod campaign’, which meant the fishing, salting,transporting, supplying and pricing of bacalhau were all statecontrolled. The fall of the regime in 1974 and the depletion of codaround the Grand Banks marked the end of the Portuguese cod industry,and these days we rely on Norway and Iceland for our supply.

Like fado music, salt cod evokes an element of saudade, or nostalgia fora time when Portugal was a strong nation of brave mariners conqueringthe world. To many of my countrymen, bacalhau is the very essence ofbeing Portuguese. But I have a big confession to make here, one that Iknow is controversial from the mouth of a lisboeta: I prefer fresh cod.To me, the taste of bacalhau is quite strong – it has an almostfermented flavour, which I do like, but I find the texture too fibrous.I think the beauty of fat flakes of cod is lost, its luminous sweetnessgone. I’ll no doubt be declared a traitor for voicing this radicalopinion, but times have changed, we have refrigeration, ice and quicktransportation, we’re not heading out on voyages across two oceans thatlast years on end and, unlike in the time of the Discoveries, fresh codis readily available. I prefer to lightly cure my fish (see here).

Of course, I’m not saying that when you go to Portugal you shouldn’t trysalt cod, or venture into the shops where you’ll find it stacked up onmarble shelves in piles that grow particularly high in November andDecember. It is pretty stinky stuff, though, so be prepared for thepungent smell of salt-brine and dried fish wafting out of shop frontsand across the aisles in supermarkets. Lisboetas’ knowledge of fish ishuge. We have always made an effort to know about it because we don’t

want to be cheated into buying something bad. We insist on eating fishin season; we all know which fish is best at which time of year, andthat sardines caught in winter are fit only for tinning. Seafood is apart of our DNA, but I didn’t fully realise this until I begantravelling abroad and discovered that many people elsewhere had nevercome across whole fish before. In Lisbon we usually want ours servedwith their heads, tails and bones, knowing that cooking fish like thisgives it the best flavour.

So, adopt a lisboeta state of mind when you eat and buy fish. Do what wedo and seek out shiny, shimmering produce that almost looks as if it’sstill alive. The eyes should be beautiful, really super-clear andvibrant. If you touch the fish it should be firm and tense like a hardmuscle – rigor mortis is a sign that it is really fresh. It should neversmell and the gills should be pristine, perhaps with just a little bitof muck.

I asked my fishmonger to share some tips to help when shopping for fish.She shrugged, saying ‘I only sell fish that I like, that hasn’ttravelled far at all so it is really fresh. If it’s not good, I won’tsell it.’ Her reply made the secret clear: strike up a relationship witha fishmonger who will turn their nose up at anything other than thebest.

BeachLife

Lisbon life in summer is tied to the beach. I don’t think there’s anyother city in Europe that has such good beaches within strikingdistance, and that clarion call of sun, sea, sand and seafood is hardfor any lisboeta to resist. People finish work and jump in the car oronto the train to catch the last few hours of dying light beside theocean – or phone in sick and hope the boss doesn’t rumble them by seeinga picture of them out among the waves or flopping on a beach towel onsocial media. Surfing is huge in Lisbon, and many teenagers go throughan obsessive phase. Even when we become adults, we never really shake itoff – whether the surfboard is real or made from polystyrene, we justrun into the ocean and try to catch some waves. Yes, it’s cold, but thatdoesn’t stop us.

The closest good beach to Lisbon is Carcavelos and in spite of itsproximity to the city it’s pretty great. You just face the sea, turn ablind eye to the buildings behind you and breathe in. The journey startsat the city’s Cais do Sodré station, passes through Belém (famous forits pastéis de nata) and ends at the beach town of Cascais, with stopsat a number of different beaches in between. The train gets really busyat Carcavelos, but the waters are clean because it sits at the mouth ofthe River Tejo.

Carcavelos is framed at one end by the majestic São Julião da Barrafortress, a sixteenth-century coastal defence complex that sits right onthe headland. It is here that you should come if you want a taste oflisboeta beach bedlam at its best. You can walk along the paredão, thesea wall that skirts along the series of little beaches like apromenade. In Estoril, you’ll find the Casino Estoril, which featured inIan Fleming’s first James Bond novel Casino Royale – Fleming stayed inthe town during the Second World War, operating as an MI5 agent. Mygrandparents owned a house in the area when I was young and then later,when my parents split up, my father and I moved here too, so I spentmany summer days and nights in and around Cascais and Estoril. When I’mpassing through I still like to go to Pastelaria Garrett for prawnrissóis, driven by childhood memories that make me crave these crescent-shaped pastries. Unlike the places that make a batch in the morning thenjust leave them sitting on a plate for hours, here they fry their

salgados (savoury snacks) freshly throughout the day.

From Estoril I like to walk on, past the lighthouses, fortresses,anchorages and harbours, to my favourite beach: Praia do Guincho. It’s 5kilometres from Cascais and is a little harder to get to on publictransport; perhaps that’s why its wild and windy beauty is still sopristine. There’s little beachside development here – just hills,cliffs, sand dunes and stunning succulents. The air seems cleanerbecause you’re far from the city and I love to scoop up lungfuls of it,along with the smell of salt and seaweed. When I was younger, headingout to Guincho was always a gamble. Surf cams didn’t exist then, so younever really knew what to expect from the weather until you got there,but even on days when the sand whips up on your face, this place isalways worth it. You’ll often find people playing jogar aos toques (kickups). The Portuguese are really good at these fancy beach ball tricks,thanks to hours and hours of practice, and players will welcome you ifyou want to join in. Just say Posso jogar? – Can I play?

On a clear day, you can see the town of Sintra up on the pine-coveredhills of the Serra de Sintra. This was once the retreat of Lisbon’selite – it’s cooler up there – and it is filled with ostentatious,brightly coloured palaces. We used to drive up in my grandfather’s oldCitroën just to get a packet of queijadas de Sintra, soft littlecheesecakes that are almost as magical as the town itself. The cliffbends round to the headland of Cabo de Roca, the westernmost point onthe European mainland. The Portuguese poet Luís de Camões wrote about itin his epic poem Os Lusíadas: ‘Here, where the land ends and the seabegins’. Until the fourteenth century, people thought that this was theend of the world and it’s not hard to see why. Be careful when strollingalong the edge here – the wind is dangerous.

Of course, the beach is not just about swimming or surfing in thefreezing-cold Atlantic, or feeling the warmth of the sun on our bareskin, or teenage boys and girls hooking up and partying. It’s also aboutall the different foods we associate with it. Bolas de Berlim are aquintessential part of beach life for lisboetas. These fat, sugarydoughnuts are filled with bright-yellow cream that oozes from a slit onthe side, and we love to eat them after a swim when the salt from thesea is drying on our lips and it mixes with the sugary dust. Sellerswalk up and down the beach, crying out Doughnuts! and suddenly you wantone. On Carcavelos I watch a doughnut seller called Miguel, dressed inwhite, as he advertises his wares with a shout: Olha a bolinha! Bolas deberlim! I wave him over and he crouches down beside me, opening the

white wooden box painted with Miguel dos Bolos in red letters that hecarries on his shoulder. He opens it with some ceremony, and insidethere are shelves stuffed with pastries. Taking a pair of metal tongs,he slides one into a fold of greaseproof paper. I bite into it and amtransported back to my childhood. Another beach treat are batatas fritas– freshly made crisps tossed in salt.

We don’t go in for beach picnics much, though. Soggy sandwiches are notthe thing when you can wander up to a beach shack and have a freshlymade bifana (pork sandwich) or a plate of clams. But we do love pickingcadelinhas (very small clams) on the water’s edge and taking them hometo cook. Across the bridge, on the Costa Caparica, you’ll see people atlow tide standing in the shallows, spreading the toes of their bare feetinto the sand looking for these tiny bivalves. Sometimes you have to befast, because the surf will suddenly pull the shells back out to seaagain. This chase is fun, and then when you have a bucketful ofcadelinhas you just leave them in salt water to clean them out a bit.Later, you can steam them with garlic and coriander and relish the factthat nature gave you this plate of deliciousness for free. On therockier coastline around Cascais you’ll also see people crabbing, butthis is a less rewarding sport – you are unlikely to find a crab bigenough to eat, and when you do it’ll be pretty good at nipping fingers.Nevertheless, kids love poking around pools in the hope of finding one.

Being a lisboeta, I am sentimental about the beach – it’s a kind ofsaudade, a longing for endless, carefree days when you could run aroundalmost naked. And when I get back to the beach, somehow, even if it isjust for a few moments, I find myself feeling like that child again, andI am deliriously happy.

SantoAntónio

One of my favourite moments of the year is 12 June, the night before thefesta de Santo António. It’s part of a city-wide carnival of dancing,singing and marching, and at the heart of it all is some incrediblefood.

This big party marks the beginning of summer for me and it’s always tiedup with the smell of sweet sardines being grilled in the streets of oldLisbon. The whole city is covered in smoke, and some sources claim that13 sardines are eaten per second throughout that night. When the daysget longer and warmer, these small but beautiful fish start to come backinto season and we can’t wait to get our first taste of the good ones.They’re caught not far from our Atlantic beaches, and between June andlate September we devour them. I think a passion for sardines is in thePortuguese lifeblood and for us, the fattier the fish are, the better.

During Santo António you’ll see people who’ve never set foot in aprofessional kitchen tending their charcoal grills brilliantly, managingto cook their fish to perfection, adding salt and steam and deftlyworking their tongs, engulfed in the vapours. The name of a person whotends a grill like this is an assador, but I like to think of them assardinistas because of the skill it takes to produce hundreds of amazingsardines one after the other all night long. We love sardinha no pão, inwhich the fish are piled on top of rustic bread that absorbs all thelovely juices and oils. Sardines are traditionally served with a saladof charred and peeled green peppers, lots of thinly sliced sweet whiteonions, and garlic and fresh coriander made glossy with plenty of extra-virgin olive oil.

All across the city, you’ll find people with an eye to making some easycash who have set up grills made from oil drums, metal barrels,dustbins, even car wheels. Right on the street, they pull out tables andchairs from their houses and run their own little al fresco restaurants.Living-room windows are thrown wide open and owners hang out of themselling plastic glasses of wine for 1 euro. People hire kegs and standthere on the cobblestones, pouring out small beers we call imperials.Others mix up jugs of sangria made with wine, fruit, soda and sometimesbrandy or vodka. They pin hand-written price lists on the wall besidetheir front door and sell them by the hundreds. I love these small-scale

wheeler-dealers and imagine them taking their profit and going out andbuying a big TV or getting a better car. We call them desenrascados:wise guys or girls with their eye on the money. The Portuguese spirit isfast and, given our country’s still-feeble economy, getting out on thestreets and selling things that add to the party is pretty clever.

Santo António is a real community party, when old people will drag outtheir comfy armchairs and sit with a drink, babies will sit up ondaddy’s shoulders or are pushed in buggies, and little kids run around.I wish I could be here every year with my family so that they couldenjoy the part of them that is Portuguese and feel that pride as itpulses through all the people nearby. I’d show them how all thedifferent neighbourhoods come together, decorate their streets andcelebrate the city’s saint. These are local gatherings that we callarraiais, and they can be anything from a cluster of plastic tables andchairs to an almost professional event run by a community association.In the streets of the old city, particularly in the tight warrens andalleyways of Alfama, our city’s medieval Moorish quarter, Santo Antóniois madness and you might lose your friends, and possibly your sanity.But it’s easy to seek out a calmer vibe in places like Madragoa, wherethere’s not so much elbow jostling or hustle and bustle.

People drift from one neighbourhood to the next looking for the bestsardinhada (sardine party). Because the sardine is a beautiful but cheapfish, almost everyone can afford to take part in the celebrations andeat lots of them – this is definitely not an expensive night out. Thesedays, there’s little religion involved in the festa de Santo António,and I suspect we celebrate it on the eve of the actual saint’s day withthe hangover in mind, as it’s a public holiday on 13 June. You do seestatues of Santo António everywhere you go in the city at this time,though – shops, bars, living rooms, and street corners have their ownfigurines, some of them homemade.

When we are at school, lisboetas are told the story of Fernando Martinsde Bulhões, a child born to affluent parents in Alfama in the earlytwelfth century. At the age of 19 he joined a monastery against the willof his father; his rebellion is very much something I recognise becauseI left Lisbon and my own family at the same age. Eventually Fernandobecame a Franciscan friar in Italy and adopted the name António. Atschool our teacher us told how Santo António gave a sermon in Padua, butthe heretics wouldn’t listen to him. Disillusioned, the young friar wentto the river and started preaching and, the story goes, the fish cameout to listen. I remember seeing one of our beautiful Portuguese tiled

frescos, painted in blue and white, with hundreds of fish popping out ofthe water and tilting their heads to one side so they can hear thesermon better. I laugh at the thought now because years of cutting andcooking fish has taught me many things, one of which is that fish don’thave ears. They can hear, but not at all well. To me, the story of thesermon at Padua is a bit far-fetched but it makes sense that SantoAntónio went on to become the unofficial patron saint of fishermen and,of course, of his birthplace.

The day of Santo António has its own traditions, and the biggest ofthese are the marchas populares de Lisboa, parades in which eachneighbourhood of the city competes in a kind of marching-meets-dancingcompetition. For months before the event, local people of all agesgather in halls to rehearse dance routines and marching steps; they’lllearn songs, even writing some, and seamstresses will spend longevenings sewing up this year’s elaborate costumes, praying that they’llwin the prize and bring it back home to the neighbourhood party waitingfor them. There’s a carnival procession in front of dignitaries – theprime minister, the president and the mayor – and grandstands along theroadside are filled with lisboetas and tourists, cheering them on.

In Bica, right in the heart of old Lisbon, I watch this area’smarchantes get ready for the off. The marchers have gathered on somesteps – Bica, which takes its name from a water fountain, is one of thesteepest neighbourhoods in a very steep city – and I arrive just asthey’re making last-minute adjustments to elaborate and, I have to tellyou, quite lurid costumes made from day-glo polyester and netting. Ihead to Calçada da Bica Grande, a street of steps that runs parallel tothe Elevador de Bica (the funicular that has been running up and downthe hill since 1892) and watch a woman, one of dozens all over the citydoing the same thing, with tape measures draped around her neck as sherummages in a bag filled with ribbons, sequins and glue. She probablymade these outfits and wants everything to be perfect before she’ll letthem go into the competition. She straps young women into their corsets,checks their hair and make up and I see her smile at her work. Thislast-minute finessing adds to the build-up and I can feel the buzzbubbling up all around me.

Everywhere the streets are hung with paper lanterns and garlands in akaleidoscope of colours, and fairy lights loop down from balconies andrailings. I look up and notice a worn Portuguese flag pinned up below awindow, probably put there more than a decade ago. The next window alongsports a brand new flag, the red and green shouting proud and making me

remember what it was like to grow up in Portugal during the ‘hardshipdays’, when things were really tough and the country was in crisis.Santo António was a much more sombre day back then and people bingedrank, more to drown their sorrows than to celebrate. But these daysthat’s not the case – all around me, I see Portuguese pride andlisboetas with a new-found energy, and I love that.

The last ribbons tied, the headresses – which resemble caravels, theboats of the Portuguese Discoveries – fixed in place with hairgrips, themarchers from different parts of the city head up to their assemblypoint at Praça Marquês de Pombal before parading down Avenida deLiberdade, our biggest street, and into the old city. Rivalry is fierce,especially between Alfama and Castelo, and each year there are viciousaccusations of ‘fix’ because somehow Alfama seems to win all the time.

Santo António is said to be the saint of lost things, but people alsobelieve he brings luck to marriages and every year his saint dayfeatures a peculiar event known as the noivas de Santo António (bridesof Saint Anthony), at which Lisbon couples hope for the best of luck bytaking their vows at a mass wedding in Sé Cathedral. This traditionstarted back in the late 1950s when money was tight, so couples werehelped by the city to get married. It was banned for a few yearsfollowing the 1974 revolution, but eventually brides and grooms startedreappearing to celebrate their nuptials together, and, every year,you’ll see them being showered with confetti and rice on the cathedralsteps after they’ve tied the knot.

These are not the only romantics in the city on this day. Everywhereyou’ll see people selling pots of manjerico (bush basil) on thepavement, each with a paper flower and a little flag with a quadra (lovepoem). These are traditionally given as gifts by young men to theirgirlfriends, and nowadays friends often buy them for each other too.This pure act of offering something so nice to a friend makes me smileand I can’t help doing the same, buying half a dozen for my buddies.Manjerico came to Portugal from India and it has a fresher, moreintensely green aroma than traditional, larger-leaved basil – rub itgently, then smell your fingers; don’t sniff the plant itself because,according to folklore, this will cause it to die. I buy an extra one formy Lisbon kitchen. Portuguese people laugh at the idea of cooking withmanjerico but I think it’s just something they haven’t consideredbefore. It’s a fantastic aromatic to use because its flavour really isrefreshing and marries beautifully with sardines.

If I’m in town for the big party, I love to catch up with friends and

seek out not only sardines but also a good bifana (pork sandwich), whichis one of my favourite sandwiches in the world. On my last pilgrimage toSanto António I ran into my great friend Miguel Pires, a food writer andtrue gourmet. He knows all that is exceptional about Portuguese food,how to cook it and how to find it. We searched the streets for the bestbifana, and our noses led us to a guy who was making really fantasticones in his kitchen – we had to lean in through his window to buy them,so we got a great view of how he was cooking them. Instead of justfrying or grilling his pork, he simmered it in the juices in the pan,the meat bubbling in a molho, a sauce lush with pork fat, olive oil,wine, garlic, bay leaf and massa de pimentão (fermented red pepperpaste). Unlike other cheeky pavement vendors who would have cooked themeat beforehand, this old guy was making them to order. Even though wehad to wait a while, it was worth it, and the taste of that bifana willstay with me for quite some time.

Another food synonymous with Santo António is caldo verde, which is anational gastronomic treasure. It’s a soup of finely shredded couvegalega (cabbage) and potatoes, made rich and addictive by the additionof sweet, smoky chouriço. When lisboetas party, we always find a spot inour tummies for a warm bowl of caldo verde to carry us through the restof the night and into the morning.

At around nine or ten o’clock all the marchantes return to their ownneighbourhoods, eat some food and really get into the swing. DJ boothsare stuck up on people’s balconies and temporary scaffolding is erected,and everywhere speakers are booming out Cheira bem, cheira Lisboa, asong we love by the famous Portuguese singer Amália Rodrigues. ‘Itsmells good, it smells of Lisbon,’ she sings and we all join in.

Miguel and I decide to follow our feast with a plate of arroz doce, asweet, creamy rice pudding spiced with cinnamon and lemon zest andusually associated with Christmas, but loved so much by the Portuguesethat we’ll use any excuse to eat it. Our last stop is at a stall pipingout farturas, which are Portugal’s version of Spain’s churros orAmerica’s funnel cakes, amazing air-filled tubes of choux dough scentedwith lemon that are deep fried and then rolled in sugar and cinnamon.Sorry, my Spanish friends, but they’re much better than churros.

You really must visit Lisbon during Santo António. It’s a great time topeel back the layers of my beautiful, ancient city. I promise you’ll behypnotised by the fantastic sights and smells as lisboetas revel in thisglorious night and day in the city of light.

GazetteerThismapisjustthebriefestillustrationofmyfavouritecafés,tascas,restaurants, food shops and drinking spots in Lisbon. There havebeen many exciting new openings in recent years, but here I havefocussedontheclassics.Ihopeitwillbeusefulasyouwalkthroughthestreets,uncoveringnewtreasuresofyourown.

Cafésandpastelarias1.ChiadoCaffe

ThejesuitasherearesimplysomeofthebestinLisbon–Ialwayspopbackbeforeleavingthecitytotakeaboxhomeforthekids.RuadoLoreto61

2.Manteigaria Fábrica de Pastéis de Nata These are the bestpastéis, inmyopinion.Comeandwatchthecookspipe inthefilling, thenstandatthecountertowolfacoupledown.RuadoLoreto2

3.CaféABrasileira This is a timewarpglory, all redwoodpanelsandmirrorsandwaitersdressedinblackandwhite.Atouristtrap?Absolutely,butjustifiablyso;thisiswhereournationalpoetFernandoPessoatookhisbica.Atip:itismuchcheaperinsidethanontheterrace.RuaGarrett120

4. Café Nicola and Pastelaria Suiça This old-school café andnearby pastelaria sit on the edge ofmajestic Rossio Square, and they’regreatforwatchingtheLisbonworldgoby.CaféNicola,PraçaDomPedroIV24–25PastelariaSuiça,PraçaDomPedroIV96–104

5.PastéisdeBelémThecommercialpastéisdenatawere inventedatthisplace,whichisworthapilgrimagefortheblue-and-whitetilesandtheambience alone – even if it’s debatable whether they are the very bestcustardtarts.RuaBelém84–92

Restaurants,tabernasandtascas

6.Sol e Pesca A colourful fishing tackle shop that has become a barselling all kinds of tinned fish. Open a tin there and then, and eat thecontentswithbreadandacoldglassofwineorbeeralongside.RuaNovadoCarvalho44

7.TabernadaRuadasFloresOneofmytreasuredplacesinLisbon,thiscutelittletabernadoesreallyincrediblefood.Theatmosphereisgreatatnightbutyou’llneedtoqueueforatable.RuadasFlores103

8.BelcantoThistwo-Michelin-starredrestaurantwasagamechangerinLisbon when José Avillez opened it, and it remains one of the bestdestinationsinthecityfortrulycreativefood.LargodeSãoCarlos10

9.BairrodoAvillezJoséAvillez’snewrestauranthasexciting food,afun setting and great drinks. Themore casual taberna in the front offerscuredmeats,saladsandotherlocalfoodthatcanbeeatenonthespotorboughttotakeaway.RuaNovadaTrindade18

10.RestauranteAlfaia I love thisplace in funkyBairroAlto for reallygood,reasonablypricedPortuguesefood.SometimesIpopintotheirshopacrossthestreetforpetiscosandwine.TravessadaQueimada22

11.Gambrinus A fabulous old restaurant that gives you the feeling ofsteppingintoadifferentcentury.ThepregosandcroquetesaresomeofthebestinLisbon.RuadasPortasdeSantoAntão23

12.Ramiro Thequalityat this legendary seafood restaurant is amazing;youneed toqueuebut it’sworth it.Remember to finishyourmealwithaprego.AvenidaAlmiranteReis1

13.OCardoso do Estrela de Ouro Along the 28 tram line, in theratherlovelyGraçaneighbourhood,thisreallyisatraditionaltasca,whereDonaLauraandDonaEmiliasinginthekitchenandSenhorCardosolooksafter front of house. Come before noon to taste fresh-fried salgados andbeatthelunchtimerush.RuadaGraça22

14.Stop do Bairro This vibrant little tasca is a bit out of the way inCampo de Ourique, but it’s near the end of the 28 tram line and worthseekingout.Itisdeckedoutwithfootballscarves,butunlikemanyplacesin Lisbon it doesn’t favour any one team. I like to go and ogle what thepeople beside me are eating before I order. There are lots of Angolaninfluencesonthemenuandthebig,yellow-colouredhomemadechipsaretodiefor.Thedessertsarealsogood.RuaTenenteFerreiraDurão55A

Barsandquiosques

15.Quiosque do Adamastor This quiosque by the Miradouro SantaCaterina is named after the mythical giant who features in Luís deCamões’sfamousnarrativepoemOsLusíades,andyou’llfindasculptureofhimlookingoutovertheRiverTejo.Theviewfromhereisgreat.RuadeSantaCatarina

16. Quiosque do Príncipe Real I love sitting outside at an oldquiosque like this on a balmy night, coolingmy brow against an ice-coldportotónicoorbeerbeforesippingit.PraçaPríncipeReal

17.BairroAltoHotelBar This central hotel has one of the best roofterraces intheentirecity,withviewsoutacrosstherivertothestatueofCristoReiandthePonte25deAbril.Theyhavesomelovelywinesonoffer,butitgetsverybusysojustbeawarethatyoumighthavetowait.PraçaLuísdeCamões2

18.AGinjinhaYoucantrythesweetginjinhaliqueur,whichismadefromsourcherries,inalittleshotglasshere.Askforitcomela(withacherry)orsimela,fornocherry.It’salwaysbustlingwithlocals,eveninthemorning.LargoSãoDomingos8

Foodshopping

19.MercadodaRibeiraOneoftheoldestmarketsinLisbon,thisoffersamazingproduceatboth themarketstallsand in thesmall shopsaroundthe perimeter. The market closes at lunchtime but it adjoins the morecommercial Time Out food court, which opens till late; the food courtboastsquiosquesfromsomeofthecity’sbigchefs.Avenida24deJulho

20. Mercado Biológico do Príncipe Real This is my favouritefarmer’s market, right in the centre of Lisbon. It’s a fantastic place towanderonaSaturdaymorning.JardimdoPríncipeReal

21.GarrafeiraNacionalAwonderfuloldshopwithagoodportfolioofPortugal’sbestwines.RuadeSantaJusta18

22.ManteigariaSilvaAgreatplacetobuycuredmeatsfromdifferentareasofPortugal.Standatoneoftheoldbarrelseatingyourselection,oraskforthemtovacuum-packittotakeaway.RuaDomAntãoDeAlmada1

23.Mercado 31 de Janeiro in Saldanha This is a real workingmarket with fabulous characters who have spent a lifetime here sellingsomeofthebestfishyou’lleversee.RuaEngenheiroVieiradaSilva

RecipeListA

AçordadebacalhauAçordadegambasAlentejo-styleporkandclamsAlheiraAlmondandbutternuttartsAlmondcreamtrianglesAlmondpillowsAmêijoasàBulhãoPatocomchouriçoAngels’doublechinsArrozdegrelosArrozdemariscoArrozdepatoArrozdoceAtumcomceboladaAubergineandcourgettepisorolls

B

BabadecameloBacalhauàBrásBacalhauàGomesdeSáBacalhaucombroaBacalhaucommassadepimentãoBakedceleriacwithfennelandcorianderbrothBakedcustardwithricemilkBakedeggandporkfatcustardwithportcaramel

BakedsaltcodwithcaramelisedonionsandpotatoesBarrigadeporcoassadacomlaranjaBatatasàmurrocomcebolaequeijofundidoBeefskewerswithchouriçoandbayleavesBifanaBifeàcaféBiscuitcakeBlackpuddingandapplesandwichBlack-eyedbean,redpepperandapplesaladBolasdeBerlimBolinhasbacalhauàBrásBolinhasdechouriçocombatataBolodebolachaBolosdecacoBrigadeirosBroa

C

CabritoassadonofornoCafé-stylesteakCaldeiradaCaldoverdeCanjadegalinhadocampoCaramelchocolatetrufflesCaramelwalnutmousseCarnedeporcoàalentejanaCarrot‘cheese’cakesCarrotsaladwithtoastedhazelnutsandhoneyCataplanadetamborilCavalamaçaricadaemrefogadodetomateCavalamarinadacomtomateefuncho

CenourascommeleavelãsChamuçasdecaranguejoChanfanaChickenandricecongeeChicory,pear,fennelandalmondsaladChouriçoandpotatoballsChouriçowalnutrollsClamswithchouriço,garlicandcorianderClassicpalmiersCodbakedinacornbreadcrustCodcuredinredpepperpasteCoentradadefunchoeraizdeaipoCogumeloscompurédegrãoàalentejanaCogumelosmarinadoscombaconConfitcodwitheggsandcrispypotatoesConfitcod,eggandchickpeasaladCoriander-marinatedbroadbeansCornbreadCouvegrelhadacomfeijãobrancoCrispypigs’earsaladCroquetesdecarneCuredmackerelwithtomatoesandfennelCustardtartsCustard-filleddoughnuts

D

DoughnutswithsweetpotatocustardDrunkenfigswithpistachiosandcreamDuckpies

E

EggandoliveoilcakeEmpadasdepatovinhad’alhosEscabechedepomboEspetadasdecarnecomchouriçoelouro

F

FavasdecoentradaFeijoadaFigosbêbadoscompistachiosenatasFishsoupFloatingpoachedmeringuesFarófiasFrangonabrasacompiripiriFrangonapúcaraFriedcornmealwithparsleyFriedporkcrescents

G

GarlicandchillisquidwithgreenbeansGarlicandturnipgreenricewithpiripirioilGlazedduckricewithchouriçoandlardoGreeneggsGrilledcabbagewithgarlicbutterandcannellinibeansGrilledmackerelwithmeltingtomatoesGrilledpiripirichickenwithpotatocrispsGrilledsardineswithgreenpeppersGrilledseabasswithfennelandkale

H

Heartycodandcorianderbroth

J

J

JerusalemartichokesandcavolonerowithgarlicJesuitas

K

KalemigaswithmushroomsKalesoupwithchouriçoandpotatoes

L

LayeredcaramelcreamLegumescomvinhad’alhosLombodeporcoassadocommassadepimentãoLulascomalho,malaguetaefeijãoverde

M

MarinatedmushroomswithbaconMarinatedporkwithredpepperpasteMarinatedpot-bakedchickenMarinatedtunawithsweetonionsMeiadesfeitaMexilhõescomchouriço,tomateepimentosMigasdecouvefrisadaecogumelosMilhofritoMonkfishandchouriçocataplanaMushroomswithAlentejo-stylechickpeasMusselswithchouriço,tomatoandpeppers

O

OctopusandtomatosaladOctopuswithsmashedpotatoes,oliveoilandpisoOld-styleonionsoupOvosmexidoscomfarinheiraOvosverdes

P

PãocomchouriçoPãodelóPalmiersPaposd’anjoPastéisdebacalhauPastéisdemassatenraPastéisdenataPeasandbroadbeanswithcornbreadcrumbsPeixinhosdahortaPicapauPigeonescabechePolvoàlagareirocombatataamurroPorkandbeefcroquettesPorksandwichwithchouriçobutterPortuguesedressedcrabPortuguesefishstewPotatoeswithcaramelisedonionsandmeltingcheesePrawnandshellfishricePrawnbreadporridgePrawnsandwichwithgarlicPrawnturnoversPregoPudimabadedePriscos

Q

Q

QueijadasdecenouraQuick-friedbeefwithpickles

R

RedmulletwithSpanishsauceRicepuddingRissóisdecamarãoRoastkidgoatRoastedorange-rubporkbellywithfennelRobalodemargrelhadocomfunchoecouvegalegaRunnerbeanfritterswithclambroth

S

SaladadeagriãocomfunchoelaranjaSaladadeendiviascompera,funchoeamêndoaSaladadefavaseervilhasSaladadefeijãofradecommaçãSaladadeorelhadeporcoSaladadepolvocomtomateSaladadetomateemorangosSalmonetescommolhoàespanholaSalsichascomcouvelombardaSaltcodcakesSaltcodfrittersSandesdeberingelaecourgettecompisoSandesdechocogrelhadoSandesdegambasaoalhoSandesdemorcelacommaçaSantolarecheada

SardinhasassadascomsaladadepimentosSausageandcabbagerollswithtomatosauceScrambledeggswithsmokedsausageSerraduraSlow-bakedlambchanfanaSlow-simmeredbean,cabbageandporkstewSmokedgarlicandchickensausageSonhoscomcremedebatatadoceSopadecebolaàantigaportuguesaSopadepeixeSopadetomateSpicedcrabsamosasSquidsandwichwithlemonaioliSteaksandwichSweetpotatorolls

T

TartesdeamêndoaeabóboraTigeladaTomatoandstrawberrysaladTomatosoupTravesseirosTupinambosecavolonerocomalho

V

Vinhad’alhos-stylevegetables

W

Watercresssaladwithfennelandorange

Acknowledgements

Thisbookwasmadepossiblebyahugeamountofhardwork,passionandperseverance,andthepeoplebelowaretheoneswhomadeitareality.My thanks go to: Audrey Gillan for being a force of nature; Andrew

Montgomery for the amazingphotographs and all the cupsof tea; LaoiseCaseyforbeingabletotranslatethestrangefoodlanguageIspeak;AndréToscanoforbeingthere, tryingandalwaysstrivingtohelp;CéliaPedrosofortheenduringsupportandpassionforthisproject,andalsoforbeingawonderfulhost;AlicePedrosofortakingmebacktochildhoodandshowingme how tomake the bestpastéis de massa tenra; Lucy Pepper for beingwho you are, the most passionate Portuguese-speaking non-PortuguesepersonIknow,andforsayingoutloudwhatmanyPortugueseareafraidofsaying; and Fiona St George and the team at 84 PR for the friendship,guidanceandadviceonthisandallmyprojects.TothewonderfulTabernadoMercadoteamforbelievinginPortugaland

Portuguese food, and for pushing hard every day to champion this littleproject. AntónioGalapito for taking the journeywithme at Taberna fromdayoneand formaking itahugesuccess; I can’twait foryourproject inLisbon,you’llkillit!TurkuZorlutunaforbeinganotherforceofnatureandagreat friend; you can really roll with it on any occasion and never getphased. André Coimbra for being there from the beginning, learning andalwaysbeinghappytotakeTabernaforward–Ihavegreatexpectationsofyou,my friend!DianaNeto for all thehelpwith thepastries in thisbook;BrunoCaseiro and FilipaNeto for helping set up Taberna from the start;ThomasKipling foralwaysbeing there forsupportandadvice;LuisChou,PatrickJahnske,JayeshandRitaPatelforbelievinginTabernaandbeingpatientwithme.Toallmyotherwonderfulfriendswhohelpedandinspiredmeduringthe

makingof thisbook:PauloAmado forpushing the foodscene inPortugalforalltheseyearsandforalwaysbeingagoodfriend;AndréMagalhãesforthe wonderful meals and discussions we had about food and life at thefabulous Taberna da Rua das Flores; Nuno Diniz for all your knowledgeaboutPortuguesefoodandenchidos–manyPortuguesechefshavealottolearn from you; Miguel Pires for the help and advice with the restaurant

food and the many bottles of Serradinha; Jorge and João Felizardo forbeingthebrothersthatIloveandforalltheSuperBockswe’vesharedovertheyears;AlexandraPradoCoelho,MónicaBessone,JoséAvillezandLuisLucas.Thanks tomy agentCharlie Brotherstone and to EdVictor (youwill be

missed); toRoxanneNewtonand to theChilternFirehouse team for theirpatience.SpecialthankstotheamazingBloomsburyteamforalltheirtirelesswork

andbelief inme:XaShawStewart,NatalieBellos,RichardAtkinson,LisaPendreigh and Lena Hall; in production, Arlene Alexander and MarinaAsenjo; in publicity and marketing, Ellen Williams and Sarah Williams.ManythanksalsotodesignerCharlotteHealandTeganHendel,andprojecteditorLauraGladwin.Thanks also go to the people who helped with locations and

photographs:LuisMiguelandhisteamoffishermenandwomenatFontedaTelha;Abílio andJoãoat TascadoAbílio; all atOCardosodoEstrela deOuroandStopdoBairro;ChiaraFerroandherteamatOsteria;thefamilyatLeitaria Minhota; the team at Flor da Salva; Jorge Freire at the Lapaapartmentwherealotofthisbookwasshot,andMartaTavaresdaSilvaattheBairroAltoHotelfortheemergencyrooms.Finally, thank you to the lisboetas: the people who make up this

wonderfulcityhavesuchaspecialplaceinmyheart.

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