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Loire and Beaujolais

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LoireWith their traditional arrival in the UK in April and May the newly bottled wines of the Loire valley are often our fi rst opportunity to taste the latest European vintage. From the spring, with fl owering 2-3 weeks later than normal, through June hailstorms wreaking destruction across Vouvray, causing crop losses estimated at up to 70% in some vineyards, then a dry and hot summer, leading to drought in some areas, and fi nally late September rain interrupting the harvest, 2013 was a challenging year for our vignerons. Pierre Cherrier commented on the diffi culty of waiting for ripe fruit whilst avoiding the rot developing in the wet conditions. The day after the harvest was completed at Masson-Blondelet 30mm of rain fell, making the vineyards inaccessible.

Having tasted widely in February I believe the wines have turned out really rather well, with attractive fruit balanced by lively structure. Alongside the new arrivals there are still many wines from earlier vintages; from 2010 onwards the reds have been particularly successful. In this list we also offer the fi rst 2011 sweet wine from Château Pierre-Bise; Claude Papin remarked that he had only seen a handful of vintages this fi ne in his 40 years experience.

Gordon CoatesMay 2014

The estates are listed in order from the source of the Loire to its mouth.

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Pouilly-Fumé and SancerreThe longest river in France; the Loire flows north for over half its length, before turning west at Orléans and heading towards the Atlantic coast. Just before this deviation the river runs between Pouilly and Sancerre, the two most famous names in the whole valley. Both towns are capable of producing thrilling wines from Sauvignon Blanc but it would be a brave, or possibly foolish, taster who would claim to consistently tell one from the other. It is true that Pouilly-Fumé has a higher proportion of clay-flint soils which can impart a characteristic smokiness to the wines.

As the demand for white Sancerre is so high Pinot Noir makes up only a small percentage of the vineyard area but the delicate rosé that it produces is entrancing a growing number of fans.

Francis Blanchet, Pouilly-sur-LoireYear in, year out Francis Blanchet and his family create a wine that is so true to the appellation, and that really displays the illusive suggestion of gunflint, especially after a year or so in bottle. The estate grows 100% Sauvignon Blanc on 9.5 hectares covering Kimeridgian clays, flint and limestone. Along with Les Pernets we offer the age-worthy Les Silice cuvée, from a small block on very flinty soils, which Francis compares favourably to the excellent 2005 and 2006 vintages.

2012 Pouilly-Fumé, Les Pernets, 12.5%Bottle £13.50 Case £153.90 Code BLA112Very pale lemon with green tints. Exuberant youthful citrus and flint nose. Decently weighted primary fruit; fresh lemon over a mineral acid thread. Fresh and bone dry on the finish. Now-2015

2011 Pouilly-Fumé, Les Silice, 13%Bottle £14.95 Case £170.43 Code BLA211A touch more deeply coloured. Aromas of grapefruit, preserved lemons, nettles and struck flints. Elegantly balanced between lemon sherbet, grapefruit, ripe apple, and a subtle restraining grip. Builds on the palate. Irony; and very long. Now-2015

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Masson-Blondelet, Pouilly-sur-LoireThe seventh generation of Massons are now firmly in charge with Pierre looking after both vineyards and cellar whilst sister Mélanie is in charge of sales and marketing. The estate covers about 21 hectares of vines around the village, from which they make several cuvées of Pouilly-Fumé from different soils: Les Angelots is from south and south-east facing chalky (calcareous) vineyards in the heart of the appellation, and always shows really open, enticing aromas and fruit. Les Pierres de Pierre is a rather smaller production, coming from four small parcels of 40-45 year old vines grown on flint. Organic techniques in the vineyard and modern, low temperature vinification aim to let the differences in terroir shine through in the finished wines.

2012 Pouilly-Fumé, Les Angelots, 12.5% Bottle £15.25 Case £173.85 Code MAS212This latest vintage has won numerous accolades within France, from a gold medal at Mâcon to a glowing review in La Revue du Vin de France. Fresh aromas of bright, ripe citrus are followed on the palate by such an intense depth of lemon flavours with stone fruit notes. Elegantly balanced and long on the finish. Now-2015

2012 Pouilly-Fumé, Les Pierres de Pierre, 12.5%Bottle £17.25 Case £202.35 Code MAS412This is the family’s top unoaked wine. Pale with green tinges. Open and attractive lemon scent. Mouthwatering fruit and piercing mineral notes, such fine balance. So pure and so linear. Now-2016

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Cherrier Père et fils, Domaine de la Rossignole, VerdignyThe Cherrier family have been delivering fine Sancerre to us for years now. Pierre took over the 14 hectares of vineyards on the sweeping slopes at Verdigny in 1962, and has now passed on the baton to his two sons, François and Jean-Marie. The uncomplicated and vivacious fruit of the classic white here signifies bench-mark Sauvignon Blanc. Alongside the white and rosé, we list the family’s red for the first time.

2012 Sancerre, 13%Bottle £13.50 Case £153.90 Code ROS112Delightfully ripe lemon on the nose. Citrus, almost mandarin fruit on the palate, with a discreet stony background. Elegantly delineated and lasts so well. Now-2015

2013 Sancerre Rosé, 12.5%Bottle £14.25 Case £162.45 Code ROS313Very pale salmon pink. Attractively open and focused aromas of ripe soft red fruit. With delicate strawberry and red currant flavours, this displays particular finesse in a tricky vintage. Now-2016

2012 Sancerre Rouge, 12.5%Bottle £14.50 Case £165.30 Code ROS612From 100% Pinot Noir, half aged in old barrels. Expansive aromas of red and black fruit with a note of capsicum lead to a strongly varietal palate of wild raspberries and red currants. This is deceptively generous in the mouth and finishes long. Now-2017

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Menetou-Salon, Quincy and ReuillyMenetou-Salon, Quincy and Reuilly remain in the shadow of their better known neighbours, Sancerre and Pouilly, yet the wines here are sought out by those who seek value and authenticity rather than a famous name. The appellation of Menetou-Salon, spread out along a range of hills to the north-east of Bourges, is contiguous with Sancerre. Among Charolais pastures and cereals, the vineyards lie largely on south-facing slopes, all on calcareous, Kimeridgian clay. In 1936 Quincy became only the second Appellation Controlée in France, after the example of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with Reuilly following a year later. From plantings on lighter, sandier soils, and with a slightly warmer climate than at Sancerre, wines from Quincy tend to be creamier and softer, while the well exposed limestone soils of neighbouring Reuilly yield a touch more elegance.

Domaine Chavet, Menetou-SalonThe bubbly Marie-Lise and husband Philippe can trace winemaking in the Chavet family back to the 17th century, and now run a 23 hectare domaine. While some regular customers may mourn the passing of the distinctive belle époque label, the wine here is perennially very correct, with an impressive mineral steeliness. Continuing a run of successful vintages, this won a Ligier d’Argent medal at the Salon des Vins de Loire in 2013.

2012 Menetou-Salon, 13% [Screwcap] Bottle £12.75 Case £145.35 Code CHC112Sparklingly bright pale lemon with a green tinge. Open, citrus perfume, even a hint of honey. On the palate rich, ripe lemon fruit, elegantly balanced by a flinty minerality. This is mouthwatering and persistent. Now-2015

Domaine de Chevilly, MereauThe Lestourgie family continues to make exemplary Quincy from nine hectares of vines, and this wine is now established as a firm favourite among many customers. Minimal use of chemicals in the vineyard and low temperature fermentation maximize fruit flavours and the expression of terroir.

2013 Quincy, 12.5% [Screwcap]Bottle £12.50 Case £142.50 Code CHE113Bright, inviting scent of ripe citrus and pear. On the palate this shows mouth watering zest, along with a depth and concentration of lemon and lime fruit. The finish is balanced and long. Winner of a silver medal at this year’s Salon. Now-2016.

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Domaine Cordaillat, MereauMichel and Chantal Cordaillat established their domaine in 1995 and now farm 10 hectares, of which 65% is Sauvignon Blanc. Here the use of lutte raisonnée enables varietal expression and terroir to shine.

2013 Reuilly, Tradition, 13%Bottle £11.95 Case £136.23 Code COD113Pale and crystal bright hue. Fine lemon and wet stone aromas. Lively citrus fruit backed by distinct herbal and mineral notes; this has attractive mouth-feel and finishes well. Now-2016

Touraine

Domaine de l’Aumonier, CouffySophie and Thierry Chardon are a determined young couple who only founded their estate on bought and rented land in 1997. They now farm 47 hectares, over half planted to Sauvignon Blanc. Since the 2010 vintage the Touraine Sauvignon has been fully organic, and bears Agriculture Biologique certification. The appeal of the wines here lies in the ripe fruitiness of the house style.

2012 Les Chardons, Sauvignon Blanc, Vin de Pays de Loire, 12%Bottle £7.95 Case £90.63 Code AUM312Pale hue. Bright grapefruit and ripe apple aromas with a grassy note. Well judged weight of zesty citrus flavours. Really on form, with a refreshing finish. The 2013 vintage follows at £8.25. Drink this year

2013 Touraine Sauvignon, 12.5%Bottle £9.95 Case £113.43 Code AUM113Pale lemon. Scent of cut grass and citrus. Clean zesty lemon and lime flavours with a herbal note. Well focused and silky on the palate and finishing with a mineral lift. Now-2015

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Vouvray

Domaine Sylvain Gaudron, Vernou-sur-BrenneGilles Gaudron is the latest of four generations to control this 25 hectare domaine comprising 50 small plots, along with 1000 metres of 13th century troglodyte cellars. Gilles practices lutte raisonnée in the vineyard and, in the naturally cool cellars, vinifies the issue of each plot separately to ease selection and blending for the finished wines. He talks of the wines “ripening” in his cellar, rather than “ageing”; for example, his sparkling Vouvray is cellared for more than twice the legal minimum of 12 months before release. The wines below cover the range of Vouvray styles from sparkling and dry, through medium to lusciously sweet.

NV Vouvray, Méthode Traditionelle, Brut, 12.5%Bottle £13.75 Case £156.75 Code GAU1NVBased mainly on the 2010 vintage. Pale colour and a fine, lively mousse. Bold varietal aromas are followed by a delightfully balanced, ripe fruited palate and a vivacious, clean finish. Now-2015

2010 Vouvray, Sec, 13%Bottle £12.25 Case £139.65 Code GAU210Bright pale lemon colour. Open and showing temptingly developed aromas of ripe melon and quince, which follow through to a dry, richly textured palate. The flavours are persistent and leave the mouth clean and refreshed. Now-2015

2010 Vouvray, Demi-Sec, 12%Bottle £12.25 Case £139.65 Code GAU310A mouthful of lush pear, checked by the characteristic nettle notes of chenin blanc. Showing attractive development, the medium sweetness is cut by a spine of acidity, leaving a satisfying savoury finish. A brilliant pairing with rich liver pâté. Now-2016

2010 Vouvray, Grain d’Or, 1er Tri, 11%Bottle £25.50 Case £290.70 Code GAU410Fine, dry weather at the end of October and in to early November allowed this careful selection of individual berries affected by noble rot. This mid-gold coloured wine with 115g/l residual sugar is wonderfully rounded and silky textured, with honey and pure ripe fruit flavours. Now-2022

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Chinon, Bourgueil and Saint Nicolas de BourgueilJust before the town of Saumur as the Loire flows towards the west is the source of many of the best red wines in the valley. Bourgueil and Saint Nicolas lie on the north bank whilst Chinon is to the south of the river, all three and the surrounding villages producing wines from Cabernet Franc which vary in style from light and early drinking to more full-bodied, structured and age worthy.

Wilfrid Rousse, Savigny en VeronWilfrid Rousse has 18 hectares of Cabernet Franc, across a wide range of soils. Having completed three years in conversion the 2011 vintage is certified organic. Les Galuches is from young vines grown on sand and gravel lying near to the river Vienne: it’s always a perfectly correct, fresh, lead-pencil Chinon for early drinking. Les Puys is from a relatively young 3 hectare south facing vineyard with flinty soils.

2011 Chinon, Les Galuches, 12.5%Bottle £10.95 Case £124.83 Code ROT311Bright, even purple hue. Very true Cabernet Franc nose, currranty and just a touch leafy. Supple and delightfully balanced, showing ripe cherries and blackcurrants. Now-2015

2010 Chinon, Les Puys, 12.5%Bottle £12.95 Case £147.63 Code ROT610Piercing blackberry scent. Stylish and lively, with a good weight of red and black fruit, allied to silky tannins. A benchmark example at a lovely stage of maturity. Now-2016

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Domaine du Petit Bondieu, RestignéThomas Pichet tends 17 hectares of family owned vineyards which are currently in conversion to organic cultivation. The fruit for Cuvée du Vendôme comes from lower lying sandy gravel plots.

2011 Bourgueil, Cuvée du Vendôme, 12.5%Bottle £12.50 Case £142.50 Code PEB111Textbook aromas of red fruit with a hint of graphite. This delightfully light and stylish unoaked selection displays such well judged clean cherry fruit, and could be enjoyed cool during the warmer months. Now-2015

Gérald Vallée, Domaine de la Cotelleraie, Saint Nicolas de BourgueilOn the gently south-facing gravel terraces and sandstone slopes around the village Gérald Vallée crafts a range of wines from a domaine of 26 hectares. L’Envolée is his top wine, from two low-yielding plots of sixty year old vines on the slopes, given lots of pigéage and long maceration to aid extraction, before 12 months ageing in barrel, and bottling without fining or filtration.

2008 Gérald Vallée, Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil, L’Envolée, 12.5%Bottle £16.50 Case £188.10 Code VAL308Deep and opaque purple. Blackcurrant on the nose, with a hint of bacon fat. Rich, black-fruited palate, with mineral notes. Pure, velvety and well integrated. This is consistently so poised, with fine balance. Now-2017

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Anjou-SaumurAs the river flows west from Touraine, Chenin Blanc takes over from Sauvignon Blanc for whites, supplemented by the Cabernet varieties for reds and rosés. This area south of the town of Angers produces the vast quantities needed to fill supermarket shelves, alongside rare and sought after treats such as Savennières and Quarts de Chaume.

Chapin & Landais, St. Hilaire St. FlorentWe continue with this excellent vintage fizz, made from Chenin Blanc (here known as Pineau de Loire) with 10% Chardonnay. Chenin Blanc has excellent acidity, so lends itself perfectly to the production of sparkling wine, produced in Saumur since the early nineteenth century.

2011 Chapin & Landais, Saumur Brut, Le Grand Saumur, 12.5%Bottle £12.25 Case £139.65 Code CHL111Fine mousse. This always has a pretty scent of apples and pears. Very clean, appley fruit, not absolutely bone dry, and appealing freshness. Now-2015

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Domaine des Rochelles, Saint Jean des MauvretsJean-Hubert Lebreton’s family estate is close to the river just south of Angers in the Anjou Villages Brissac appellation. The enterprise is notable for having 16 of its 58 hectares planted to Cabernet Sauvignon; very unusual in this region, but easy to understand after tasting the truly amazing La Croix de Mission.

2012 Anjou Rouge, L’Ardoise, 13%Bottle £10.25 Case £116.85 Code ROC112Beautifully ripe Cabernet Franc grapes are thermo-vinified to make this early-drinking style. Attractive bright purple robe. Bags of exuberant, lifted strawberry and cherry fruit. A versatile summer drinker. Now-2015

2012 Anjou Villages Brissac, La Croix de Mission, 13%Bottle £16.75 Case £190.95 Code ROC312Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with a seasoning of Cabernet Franc. Open and richly perfumed, displaying wonderfully ripe and rounded cassis fruit, kept in check by the almost imperceptible tannin and acid structure. Still an infant, but one to make the Bordelais take note. Now-2020

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Château Pierre-Bise, BeaulieuClaude Papin is a master of Chenin Blanc in all its guises from bone dry to lusciously sweet. His focus is to produce wines which truly reflect their individual origins alongside their varietal character. The terroir differences and quality hierarchy are always so clearly defined. Claude’s two sons, René and Christophe, are taking more responsibility, for the cellar and vineyards respectively, and on the evidence of recent vintages the transition to the new generation will ensure the integrity and quality of these complex and diverse wines.

2012 Savennières, Clos de Coulaine, 14%Bottle £15.75 Case £179.55 Code CPB612Raised in a mix of old barrels and stainless steel tanks. Bright mid lemon robe. With its well focused initial burst of orchard fruits this is perennially powerful and complex. Particularly successful this vintage. Now-2017

2011 Savennières, Clos le Grand Beaupréau, 13%Bottle £16.95 Case £193.23 Code CPB811An inviting nose of classy ripe pear fruit. All filigree elegance, with unadorned stone fruit and herbal depth. So intense and focussed. “It has a greater flesh and persistence on the palate than the Clos de Coulaine of the same vintage, with a supple weight but also a stony background in keeping with the character on the nose. 17/20” www.thewinedoctor.com, February 2013. Now-2018

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2012 Savennières, Roche aux Moines, 14%Bottle £22.50 Case £256.50 Code CPB912

Pale and crystal bright. Pear scents, backed by a hint of lanolin. Such a generous, poweful palate, currently a touch unresolved. Ripe pear fruit, a touch of honey and a vital, nettle note. Now-2018

2010 Coteaux du Layon, Rouannières, 10%Bottle (50cl.) £16.50 Case (12 x 50cl.) £188.10 Code CPB510

From a vineyard on thin soil over spilite, this is our usual selection but bureaucracy decrees that as the wine finished fermenting at below the 11% limit it could not bear the Beaulieu name. Glowing old gold. Ripe, almost pungent tropical aromas. On the palate a peach and apricot nectar; punchy and full blown, yet fresh and clean to finish. Now-2020

2011 Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu, Soucherie, 11%Bottle (50cl.) £17.50 Case (12 x 50cl.) £199.50 Code CPB411

Shale and carboniferous soils shape this wine. Almost explosive exotic fruit on the nose. Generous table grape and apricot flavours, along with marmalade and rich fruit cake. Complete and delicious, but still improving. “All in all a very pure and classic style. The palate is no less impressive in its truth and purity, the fruit pure and direct, the white peach and honeyed minerals showing quite some charisma. A superb character here. 18/20” www.thewinedoctor.com, February 2013. Now-2023

2010 Quarts de Chaume, 11%Bottle (50cl.) £24.95 Case (12 x 50cl.) £284.43 Code CPB210

Star bright, even gold hue. A brooding nose; ripe, deep and honeyed. On the palate this is rich, powerful and densely packed with primary stone fruit. A taut mineral and acid spine lead to an achingly long finish which leaves the mouth clean. Such potential. Now-2025

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Domaine des Forges, Saint Aubin de LuignéStéphane and Séverine Branchereau are another couple who have successfully taken on a thriving family domaine. Their 45 hectares of vines produce numerous different cuvées, from simple Vin de Pays through Savennières to luscious late harvest wines. With each new vintage the wines of this estate become more polished and assured.

2012 Chardonnay Vin de Pays de Val de Loire IGP, 12.5%Bottle £8.25 Case £94.05 Code FOR812A bargain in the Chablis style; naked, unoaked Chardonnay. Pale and crystal bright colour. Bright melon fruit with a subtle chalky back note. Crisp yet well weighted, with creamy pear and citrus. Real verve on the finish. Now-2015

2012 Anjou Blanc, L’Audace, 13%Bottle £10.50 Case £119.70 Code FOR412Stéphane has really improved this barrel fermented wine, making it more polished and a wonderful, good value, introduction to the style that reaches its peak with Savennières. Open, inviting and attractively spicy on the nose, then generous pear and melon flavours over discrete oak, and a long, well-focused finish. Now-2016

2012 Coteaux du Layon St Aubin, 12%Bottle £11.75 Case £133.95 Code FOR612 Bright pale gold. Restrained aromas of peach and honey, lead to a palate of soft, ripe tropical fruit. Not lusciously sweet, so ideal to drink on its own or to accompany cheeses or simple fruit desserts. Now-2020

2010 Coteaux du Layon Chaume, Les Onnis, 11.5%Bottle £18.75 Case £213.75 Code FOR210From a steep, grassed vineyard near the river, so open to botrytis; and always a long-lived, luscious wine with high levels of residual sugar. Dazzling mid gold. Silky textured with ripe peach and Seville orange marmalade notes. So intense, already complex, yet so well balanced, and so long. Now-2021

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Domaine Cady, Saint Aubin de LuignéHere is yet another domaine in transition between generations as Alexandre takes over from his father Philippe. 20 hectares of vineyards yield the full range of wine styles. We have tasted with Alex over several years and had to find a slot for his wonderful dry white – Cheninsolite. “L’Insolite” translates as “the unusual”, but whilst the name is a witty play on words the wine is no joke!

2011 Anjou Blanc, Cheninsolite, 14%Bottle £13.75 Case £156.75 Code CAD111

100% Chenin Blanc, hand harvested, then fermented and aged for 11 months in 400 litre “double barriques”, 20% new. Subtle vanilla oak notes behind ripe soft white fruit and herbal aromas. A luciously broad, rich mouthful of ripe pear cut by citrus zest. Finishes with the textbook grip of the variety. Winner of a Ligier d’Or medal at the 2013 Salon. Now-2016

Château de Putille, La PommerayePascal and Geneviève Delaunay farm 60 hectares spread over the two communes of Montjean-sur-Loire and La Pommeraye, to the south west of Angers. The land is planted mainly to Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, and the wines produced continue to offer genuine character and real value for money.

2012 Anjou Blanc Sec, 12.5%Bottle £8.95 Case £102.03 Code PUT712

Ripe pears and a touch of lavender honey on the nose. Attractive weight and rich texture, with bright, pure flavours of pear and melon: a lovely example of unoaked Chenin Blanc, and it finishes really well. Now-2015

2011 Anjou Rouge, 13%Bottle £8.75 Case £99.75 Code PUT311

100% Cabernet Franc. Bright, deep purple. Very ripe black cherry aromas. Silky cassis fruit balanced by a slatey note and ripe, supple tannin. Authentic, a touch rustic, and an ideal accompaniment to porc aux pruneaux. Drink this year

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Muscadet

Domaine de la Chauvinière, Chateau-ThébaudIt is hard to believe when meeting Jérémie Huchet that he has been in charge of the family domaine for more than ten years; he really does not look old enough. The Muscadet region has struggled to adapt to changing tastes in wine and has been hit by a run of poor harvests leaving many growers unable to continue in business and reducing the size of the appellation by 40%. Against this trend Jérémie is expanding with his recent purchase of the organically farmed Château de la Templerie.

2012 Domaine de la Chauvinière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie, 12%Bottle £8.50 Case £96.90 Code HUC112From low yielding vines on the estate’s granite soils. Mid lemon with green highlights. Broad and savoury aromas with real sur lie character. The palate is a generous mouthful yet still maintains the textbook zest and balance. The 2013 vintage follows. Drink this year

2012 Clos des Montys Vieilles Vignes 1914, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie, 12.5%Bottle £13.75 Case £156.75 Code HUC312From a vineyard planted 100 years ago on a well sited plot of sandstone over amphibolite soils. The style of this impressive limited production wine from old vines is recognizable as Muscadet, but with a completely unfamiliar depth and concentration. Showing tightly focused mineral and ripe pear flavours, this is so well balanced and builds to a lingering finish. Now-2017

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Beaujolais

Beaujolais is the defi nitive summer red: vibrantly youthful in colour, bright and juicy, and with lowish alcohol (usually 12.5-13%). It also accompanies a wide range of food well: salad, charcuterie and pâtés; plain roast chicken, hot or cold; and even fi sh, such as salmon. Beaujolais is usually served cool, but NOT COLD. This is very much a matter of personal taste: but be advised that whilst a Fleurie or Chiroubles might benefi t from forty minutes in the fridge, a denser Morgon or Côte de Brouilly might not.

In late and snowy November I spent a day tasting in Beaujolais after doing the rounds of our Burgundy growers. What struck me so forcibly was how delicious Cru Beaujolais was, how fresh, juicy and joyous – and how much more immediately pleasurable it was than so much red Burgundy costing a lot more. Whilst Burgundian domaines have suffered from three short harvests in 2010-12, and have increased prices by 30-50% over those vintages, most of the Beaujolais growers we buy from are charging just a few cents more than they did for their 2009s! The region suffers terribly from being perceived as out of fashion: M. Calot (see below) says he has taken the words “Cru de Beaujolais” off his Morgon labels to avoid any negative association.

So if you like the crisp, sappy black cherry fl avours of young Pinot Noir but fear good examples are priced out of your reach then do consider buying and drinking these wines. Furthermore, over a decade, the top wines may subtly transform themselves into Pinot Noir look-alikes. The locals even have a verb for this: “pinoter”, i.e. to become more Pinot-like with years in bottle. The wines begin to smell farmyardy, like mature Pinot Noir; they develop a svelte texture, and show gamey and truffl ey depths.

The CrusThere are ten Cru villages in Beaujolais, all appellations in their own right in the north of the region, south-west of Mâcon. These stretch over about 15 miles in a rough north/south band along the line of the rolling hills on the west side of the Sâone Valley: this is a geographical alignment similar to the Côte d’Or or indeed the great vineyards of Alsace. Although the Crus only comprise about 25% of all Beaujolais production, they are the heart and soul of Beaujolais. Among these rolling hills the Gamay grape has a great affi nity for the generally pinkish soils of decomposed granite, despite the soil being acidic rather than alkali as generally favoured by vines.

Vintages Climate change has been good for Beaujolais. The perfect summer of 2009 delivered concentrated, long-lived wines. 2011 was excellent: an early warm spring and a dry summer lead to the earliest harvest on record, starting on the 24th of August. 2012 was more diffi cult: as in Burgundy hail was a hazard in July, reducing the crop, but a lot of wind ensured a healthy and good quality crop.

Simon TaylorMay 2014

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Domaine Lagneau, Quincié en Beaujolais This is a typical French family-owned estate, now in the sixth generation of vignerons, with all the benefits that bestows: a sense of tradition, and a priceless inheritance of old vines, which were largely planted either around 60 or over 100 years ago. Gerard Lagneau is quiet, with a weather-beaten face and broad smile: he prefers to be out among the vines. The energetic Jeannine runs the place and makes the wine, and son Didier is now a full partner in the family business. They really work hard here: the vineyards are grassed and carefully tended; and all their grapes are handpicked, usually later than all their neighbours, to ensure quality and full ripeness. Vinification is all carbonic maceration.

The family have five hectares in Beaujolais-Villages, on schist and granite soils in Quincié-en-Beaujolais, which lies just to the south of Régnié. Their steeply sloping vineyards lie in the line of the Crus: this is generally accepted as one of the best terroirs for Beaujolais-Villages.

2012 Domaine Lagneau, Beaujolais-Villages, 12.5%Bottle £9.95 Case £113.43 Code LAG112Deep tone. All black cherry and blackcurrant, juicy, even grapey, but with substance too from the old vines. So crisp, alive and energetic. Now-2015

2012 Domaine Lagneau, Regnié Vielles Vignes, 13%Bottle £11.25 Case £128.25 Code LAG312Recognisably from the same stable as the wine above, but more focussed, sharper and with a little more of what the Lagneaus term “gout de terroir”, which one might interpret literally as earthiness but more a sense of place. Blackcurrants again, mild tannins and lots of vigour and length. Now-2016

2011 Domaine Lagneau, Côte de Brouilly, 13%Bottle £11.95 Case £136.23 Code LAG411As usual, this seems more backward and dense than the Regnié. “80-year-old vines. Mid ruby. Rather comforting blend of beaujolais and burgundy. Zesty mulberry flavours. A bit of tannins and more in the soupy than super-fresh spectrum of aromas. But GV. 16.5/20”, Jancis Robinson, Great Value Beaujolais, on www.jancisrobinson.com, 13th July 2013. Now-2016 Limited stock

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Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois, Le ColombierThe Coudert-Appert’s Fleurie is now firmly established as a favourite among our customers. Large and jovial Eric Coudert works in the vineyards and organises the harvest whilst Chantal, née Appert (qualified oenologist, sparky and energetic) controls the winery and sales. All the wine goes into the traditional large old oak foudres, large barrels, in the Beaujolais fashion; and all are bottled with minimal filtration to preserve texture.

They have 8.5 hectares in total from Chantal’s father, 8 in Fleurie and just half a hectare in Chiroubles. The Fleurie vineyards lie on the foothills of the massif, so tend to be well exposed, facing east to south-east. Soils in Fleurie are pale pink, arenitic, and lighter than in most of the Crus, perhaps explaining the grace of the wines. Chiroubles, just to the south-west and sharing its orientation, is less than half the size of Fleurie. The more sandy vineyards are on the slopes at 280-450 metres, and this tends to give freshness and bite to its pretty wines.

2011 La Chapelle des Bois, Chiroubles, 13%Bottle £11.75 Case £133.95 Code CHB311Chiroubles is the highest of the ten Cru villages, so the wines tend to lightness and grace. Charming cherry fruit. “Blueish crimson. Sweet and lightly lolly on the nose. Even a bit inky at the moment. Lots of life here, and no hurry to drink. Tastes as though there’s a little circus on the tongue. 16/20”, Jancis Robinson on www.jancisrobinson.com, 1st August 2012. Now-2015. Limited stock – the 2012 vintage follows.

2011 La Chapelle des Bois, Fleurie, 13% Bottle £11.95 Case £136.23 Code CHB111The Couderts’ example continues to be hugely popular here, vintage after vintage, and the price has remained so modest. Bright cherry colour. Rose and red-fruited fragrances. Crunchy cherry and berry mouthful, vivacious, with just a tiny hint of palate refreshing tannin. Served cool (but not too cold), this is a charmer. Now-2015

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Bernard Santé, La Chapelle-de-GuinchyBernard, short and chipper, is one of those optimistic souls whom it is always a pleasure to visit - and he has such transparent integrity too. For example he only bottles his Vielles Vignes cuvée of Julienas in good years, such as 2009 and 2011, but not in 2008 or 2012. He also expresses his philosophy simply: he is happier making “bon vins à grands vins”, and that he likes to craft “souple”, attractively supple, wines.

2011 Bernard Santé, Chénas, 12.5% Bottle £11.95 Case £136.23 Code SAP111Chénas is the smallest of the Crus: Bernard owns 5 hectares lying on clay and schist. Pretty scent of cherries. Classic Beaujolais, bright, supple and juicy, offering a gush of raspberries and red cherries with a sprinkle of acid and a wisp of tannin. Totally ripe but light and refreshing. Now-2016

2009 Bernard Santé, Moulin-à-Vent, 12.5%Bottle £13.75 Case £156.75 Code SAP609Bernard writes that this is “le plus bourguignon de nos 3 crus”. It’s a very traditional style of Beaujolais, with crushed red fruit over an earthy structure which gives this wine some guts and staying power. A good example of how one can keep good Beaujolais from a top vintage for years. Now-2015

2011 Bernard Santé, Juliénas Vieilles Vignes, 13%Bottle £15.50 Case £176.70 Code SAP411Bernard has 3 hectares of Juliénas on clay-limestone: this remarkable old vine bottling comes from one parcel of 60-70 year old vines at Les Mouilles, on clay over granite and quartz, high in the appellation towards Saint Amour. Intense black cherry scent. Ripe black and red fruit - cherries again - so expansive on the palate. Velvety structure: so smoothly textured with fine tannins. Very long. Now-2018

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Domaine Calot, Villié-MorgonJean Calot - in his early 60s, short, dignified and bespectacled - and his brother François continue to produce exemplary, age-worthy Morgons from their 10.5 hectares. Vinification is empirical, ranging from maceration carbonique to conventional fermentation; and he also employs thermovinification, involving heating the must briefly to assist extraction (admittedly a controversial technique). The resultant wines are complex wines, capable of ageing, and taking on Pinot Noir characteristics after a few years in bottle. This is usually attributed to Morgon’s different soils: widespread decomposed schist with a lot of iron and manganese. Locally they call it la roche pourrie, rotten rock, presumably for its alternation of grey-green and reddish tones.

2012 Morgon, 12.5%Bottle £12.50 Case £142.50 Code CAL412Enticing perfume: fraise des bois with rose petals. Open, generous and juicy, lively and brightly red-fruited. Merest hint of tannin. Appealing lifted quality on the finish. Now-2016

2012 Morgon, Cuvée Jeanne, 13%Bottle £13.95 Case £159.03 Code CAL212The Cuvée Jeanne is named after the Calot’s mother, from one parcel near Corcelette of vines planted in 1963-4. Very ripe - Jean says this is the plus “compôtée” of his wines, so the blackberry fruit has a hint of liqueur sweetness to it. Very refined tannins. Deliciously smooth and ripe. Real heart. Now-2019

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Loire Sauvignon Blancs £126.00Two bottles each of six whitesCode LB1142012 Blanchet, Pouilly-Fumé, Les Pernets (p.3)2012 Cherrier, Sancerre (p.5)2013 Chevilly, Quincy (p.6)2012 Chavet, Menetou-Salon (p.6)2012 Les Chardons, Sauvignon Blanc, Vin de Pays de Loire (p.7)2013 Aumonier, Touraine Sauvignon (p.7)

Loire Terroirs £135.50Two bottles each of four whites and two redsCode LB2142012 Masson-Blondelet, Pouilly-Fumé, Les Angelots (p.4)2013 Cordaillat, Reuilly (p.7)2010 Gaudron, Vouvray, Sec (p.8)2012 Chauvinière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie (p.17)2012 Cherrier, Sancerre Rouge (p.5)2010 Rousse, Chinon, Les Puys (p.9 )

Chenin Styles £135.75Two bottles each of six whites; 1 sparkling, 2 dry, 1 medium and 2 sweetCode LB3142010 Gaudron, Vouvray, Demi-Sec (p.8)2011 Chapin & Landais, Saumur Brut, Le Grand Saumur (p.11)2010 Château Pierre-Bise, Coteaux du Layon, Rouannières (p.14)2012 Forges, Coteaux du Layon, St. Aubin (p.15)2011 Cady, Anjou Blanc, Cheninsolite (p.16)2012 Putille, Anjou Blanc Sec (p.16)

Sauvignon and Gamay Case £122.00Code LB4142012 Cherrier, Sancerre (p.5)2013 Chevilly, Quincy (p.6)2012 Les Chardons, Sauvignon Blanc, Vin de Pays de Loire (p.7)2012 Lagneau, Beaujolais-Villages (p.19)2011 La Chapelle des Bois, Fleurie (p.20)2011 Santé, Chénas (p.21)

Beaujolais Tasting Case £124.80Two bottles each of six redsCode LB5142012 Lagneau, Beaujolais-Villages (p.19) 2012 Lagneau, Regnié (p.19)2011 La Chapelle des Bois, Chiroubles (p.20)2011 La Chapelle des Bois, Fleurie (p.20)2011 Santé, Chénas (p.21)2012 Calot, Morgon (p.22)

Drink and Keep Crus £144.00Three bottles each of four redsCode LB6142011 Domaine Lagneau, Côte de Brouilly (p.19)2011 La Chapelle des Bois, Fleurie (p.20) 2011 Santé, Juliénas Vieilles Vignes (p.21)2012 Calot, Morgon, Cuvée Jeanne (p.22)

Mixed Cases with a saving of at least 10% on the bottle prices

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To St Cross &WinchesterCity Centre

For orders and all enquiries, please contact:

Simon Taylor: simon@stonevine.co.uk Gordon Coates: gordon@stonevine.co.uk

François Dupont: francois@stonevine.co.uk

Telephone: 01962 712351 Fax: 01962 717545 Email: sales@stonevine.co.uk

www.stonevine.co.ukNo. 13 Humphrey Farms, Hazeley Road, Twyford, Hampshire, SO21 1QA

Opening times: Weekdays: 9.00am-6.00pm Saturdays: 9.30am-4.00pm