london calling bag - choly knight...london calling bag sewing tutorial open up the window by cutting...
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london calling bag
a sewing pattern by
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london calling bagsewing tutoriallondon calling bag
london calling bag
difficulty:
before you begin:
makes:
materials & tools• Magneticsnap• 3”x3”scrapoffleeceinterfacing• Appliquésupplies:
• 1/4yd.ofbackgroundstripefabric(white)
• 1/8yd.ofmainstripefabric(purple)
• 1/8yd.ofaccentstripefabric(green)
• Matchingsewingthread• Basicsewingtools(sewingmachine,
scissors,iron,needles,pins,fabricmarker,seamripper)
• 1yd.of45”wideor3/4”of60”widemediumtoheavyweightfabricforouterbag(Iusedtwill)
• 1/4yd.vinylforbagbottom• 11/2yds.oflightweightfabricfor
lining(Iusedquiltingcotton)• 12/3yds.of20”wideor3/4yd.of
45”widelighttomediumweightfusibleinterfacing
• 21”zipper(orlonger;fortop)• 14”zipper(orlonger;forfront)• 10”zipper(orlonger;forlining)• 2”widebeltbuckle• Two1”widerectangularmetalrings• Five3/8”widegrommets• Grommetsettingtools
one13”x13”x4”bagThisoneisprettytough;therearealotofextradetailsandaccuracytoconsider.
Thisprojectonitsownisaverybiggussetedbagwithazipperedtopclosure.ButtheoptionaldetailsincludeafrontpocketwithUnionJackapplique,buckleadjustablestrap,andloadsofinnerpockets.
3. Layoutthepatternpiecesonyourfabricandcutthemout
4. Markthefabricpieceswiththeguidelinesfromthepattern
1. Printouttheprojectpattern,pages29-432. Assemblethepatternpiecesbyliningup
thepagemarkings(A1toA2,B3toB4,andsoon)
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london calling bagsewing tutorial
the inner front gather2TallPocket(B)liningpieces,2ShortPocket(A)liningpieces,and1Front/Back(C)liningpiece
Theinnerfrontofthebaghastwopockets,onelarge,theothershorter.Aligna
pairofTallPocket(B)andShortPocket(A)pieceswith
rightsidestogether(Iusedtwodifferentliningfabricstoeatupmyscrapsmore),andsewthemalongthetopstraightedge.Whenfinished,turnthemrightsideoutandpressthetopseamniceandcrisp.
LayertheShortPocket(A)overtheTallPocket(B)andlineuptheraw
edgesatthebottomwithallrightsidesfacingup.Baste
thelayersinplaceandalsoaddanyextralinesgoingthroughtheShortPocket(A)tocreatesepa-rations.ForinstanceIcreatedsomepencilpocketsthatwereabout11/2”apart.
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the inner back gather2HiddenPocket(D)liningpieces,1Front/Back(C)liningpiece,2ShortPocket(A)liningpieces,and10”zipper
Nowsewthiswholeconfig-urationontopofoneofyourFront/Back(C)liningpieces.Aligntherawedgesalongthebottomwithallrightsidesfacingupandbastethesidesandbottominplace.ThisfinishestheInnerFront!Setthisasideuntilthe“BringingtheInsideTogether”section.
TheInnerBackhasasetofshortpocketsandazipperedhiddenpocket.Westartfirstwiththehiddenpocket.TheHiddenPocket(D)hasazipperwindow;linethisupwiththezipperwindowononeoftheFront/Back(C)liningpieceswithrightsidestogether.Sewaroundthisrectangletocreatethewindow.
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london calling bagsewing tutorial
Openupthewindowbycuttingdownthemiddle(lengthwise),thendiagonally
intothecornersascloseasyoucanwithoutactually
cuttingthethreads.
TurnthepiecesrightsideoutbyslippingtheHiddenPocket(D)intotheopening
you’vecutandflattenoutthepiecesandtheseam.The
cornerswillbealittletight,butpressthemreallywelltogetacleanlookingwindowforyourzipper.
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Installthezipperbyplacingitunderthisopeningandcenteringthezipperteeththroughtheopening.Makesurethezipperslideriswithinthewindow,thenpinitinplace(tapingorgluingalsoworksandislessobtrusive).Fromthefrontsideofthispiece,sewaroundtheedgeofthewindowascloseasyoucantotheseam–azipperfootreallyhelpshere.
Whenyou’vefinishedsewingthezipper,trimofftheexcesstapeandaddthelastHiddenPocket(D)piecetothecurrentonewithrightsidestogether.Sewthetwotogetherwitha1/4”seamallow-ance.You’lllikelyneedtomovetheFront/Back(C)pieceoutofthewaytodothis.
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london calling bagsewing tutorial
TofinishtheInnerBack,we’rejustaddingonemoresetofshortpockets.Take
yourtwoShortPocket(A)piecesandlinethemupalong
thetopstraightedge.Sewthemtogetheralongthisedgeandturnthepiecesrightsideoutandpresswhencomplete.
AligntheshortpocketontopoftheFront/Backpiecefromstep8.Match
upthebottomedgeswithrightsidesbothfacingup.
Bastethepocketinplacealongthesidesandbottomaswellasanyseparatinglinesyou’dliketosewtomakeparticularpocketsforanything.You’llwanttomovethehiddenpocketoutofthewaysoyoudon’taccidentallysewoverit.YourInnerBackisalldone;setitasideuntilthe“BringingtheInsideTogether”section.
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the outer backFusetheinterfacingpiecestotheircorrespondingTallPocket(B)andFront/Back(C)outerfabricpieces.SincetheTallPocket(B)interfacingiswithoutseamallowances,makesuretheinterfacingiscenteredproperlyinthemiddleofthepocketbeforefusing.NoteherethatI’musingpurpleplaidforanaccentonmyTallPocket(B)whichwouldotherwisebethesameastherestoftheouterfabricifIweren’tusingassortedfabricstobustmystash.
BringtogetherbothTallPocket(B)pieces,theouterfabricandtheliningandalignthembythetopstraightedge.Sewthesetwopiecesinplacealongthisedge,thenturnrightsideoutandpressflat.
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gather1TallPocket(B)outerfabricpiece,1TallPocket(B)interfacingpiece,1TallPocket(B)liningpiece,1Front/Back(C)outerfabricpiece,1Front/Back(C)interfacingpiece,fusiblefleecescrap,andmagneticsnap
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london calling bagsewing tutorial
Upnextistoinstallthemagneticsnap.Togivethesnapsomeextrasupport,
fusethescrapoffusiblefleeceinterfacingaroundwhere
thesnapwillbeplaced,centeredontheupperedgeoftheTallPocket(B)lining.
Toinstallthesnapwherethepatternguidelineindicates,presstheprongs
ofthethinhalfofthesnapintotherightsideofthelining
fabric.Cuttwolittleslitswheretheprongsdentedthefabric,thenpushthesnapthroughtheslits.Addthebaseontheothersideandbendtheprongsbackwithapairofpliers.
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NowtaketheTallPocket(B)andlayeritovertheFront/Back(C)outerfabricpiecewithallrightsidesfacingup.Alignthebottomedgesandbastethesidesandbottominplace.
WiththeTallPocket(B)allbasted,it’llbeeasiertotellexactlywheretoplacethesockethalfofyourmagneticsnap.SeewheretheupperhalfofthesnaplandsontheFront/Back(C)pieceandinstalltheotherhalfofthesnapthere.Andthissection’sfinished!Setasidethispieceuntilthe“BringingtheOutsideTogether”section.
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london calling bagsewing tutorial
the outer front
ApplytheFrontPocket(E)fusibleinterfacingtotheFrontPocket(E)outer
fabricpieces.
Fortheappliqué,IoptednottouseanyfusiblewebbecauseIwantedmy
appliquéedgestostayrawandgetfrayed.Graballyour
appliquepiecesandlaythemoutinthisorder.Firstupisthebackgrounddiagonalstripes.Linethoseupinthecornersandtheyshouldoverlapnearthetop.Afterthatputinthediagonalaccentstripes.SewthemaroundtheedgeseitherwithazigzagstitchorastraightstitchasI’vedone.
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gather2FrontPocket(E)outerfabricpieces,2FrontPocket(E)inter-facingpieces,2FrontPocket(E)liningpieces,4ZipperTab(F)appliquéfabricpieces,1Front/Back(C)outerfabricpiece,1Front/Back(C)interfacingpiece,allofyourappliquépieces,andthe14”zipper
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Afterthatarethestraightbackgroundstripes;verticalfirst,thenhorizontal.Theseoverlapthediagonalones.Lastlytherearethemainstripesdonethesameway.Thelasthorizontalmainstripwillgoagainsttheedgesothezipperseamonlyhas2layersoffabric;lessbulkthatway.
Whenallofyourappliquéisdone,usethepaperpatterntotrimthefabricandroundoffthecornerswherethediagonalstripesend.
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london calling bagsewing tutorial
Timetopreparethezipper!Togetitreadytosew,we’readdingsomezipper
tabstoeachend.Trimthezipperto13”long,then
sandwicheachendofthezipperwithtwoZipperTabs(F)andsewthroughall3layers.Whenfinished,trimtheseamallowanceto1/4andpressthefabricawayfromthezipper.
InstallittoyourfrontpocketbysandwichingitbetweentheFront
Pocket(E)outerfabricpiece(completewithappliqué)and
theFrontPocket(E)liningpiecewiththerightsideofthezipperfacingtheouterfabric.Matchuptheupperedgeandsewthroughallthreelayerswitha1/4”seamallowance.NoteherethatI’musingmoregreenplaidasmylininginsteadofmoreoftheliningfabricyouhadseenbefore.RepeatthiswiththeothersideofthepocketandtheotherFrontPocket(E)outerfabricandliningpieces.
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Whentheseamsarecomplete,pressthefabricawayfromthezipperandedgestitchtheseamclosetothezipperforaprofessionalfinish.
We’rereadytoattachthesepocketstoabase,butfirstthatbaseneedsalayerofinterfacing.FusetheFront/Back(C)interfacingpiecetothebackoftheFront/Back(C)outerfabricpiece.NotethatI’musingmoregreenplaidasmyouterfabricheretouseupmystashXDbutalsoforanicepopofcolor.Soit’snotthetypicalblackouterfabricasintherestofthebag.
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london calling bagsewing tutorial
the strap & handle
LayyourFrontPocket(E)pieceontopoftheFront/Back(C)piecewithbothrightsidesfacingupward.Thenbaste
aroundtheentireperimeterofthelayerstoholdeverythinginplace.Thatcompletes
theOuterFront!Setthispieceasideuntilthe“BringingtheOutsideTogether”section.
Upfirstisthestrap.Justlikewithalotoftheotherpieces,applyyourStrap(L)
interfacingtotheStrap(L)outerfabricbyironingitinplace.Whenfinished,trimoff6”attheendofthestrap,thiswillbeyourBuckleTab.Setthisasideuntilstep31.
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gatheryourStrap(L)outerfabricandStrap(L)interfacing,theHandle(G)outerfabricandtheHandle(G)interfacing,2Tab(H)outerfabricpieces,2Tab(H)interfacingpieces,thebeltbuckle,thegrommets,andthetworectangularmetalrings
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FoldtheStrap(L)inhalflengthwiseandsewdowntheentirelength.
TrimtheextraseamallowancefromthepointedendandturntheStrap(L)rightsideout.It’sbesttouseablunttoollikethewrongendofachopstickoradoweltogetthisstarted,sinceit’squiteeasytoaccidentallypokeaholeinyourstrapwithsomethingsharper.
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london calling bagsewing tutorial
WhentheStrap(L)isallturned.Pressitsotheedgesareallniceandcrisp,
thenedgestitcharoundtheperimeterofthestrap.
Nextup,installthegrom-metsnearthepointedendofyourStrap(L).Center
themalongthestrapandspacethemoutabout3”orso
apart.Itreallydependsonhowmuchyouwantyourstraptoadjust,butthat’swhatIwentwith.Thestrapisreadytogo!Setthisasideuntilthe“BringingtheOutsideTogether”section.
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GetouttheBuckleTabbackfromstep26andstartassemblingit.Foldunderthelongedgesby1/2”andpresstheminplace.Thenfoldthewholepieceinhalflengthwisewithwrongsidestogether.Wheneverything’sfolded,edgestitchbothsidesjustlikeinstep29withthestrap.
FoldthefinishedBuckleTabinhalfwidthwiseandcutasmallholeinthecenter,thisisforyourbuckletine.Loopthebucklethroughthetab,insertingthetineinthehole.Putadaboffray-blockingliquidontheholeforabitofinsurance.Bringtogethertherawedgesofthetabandbastethemtogether.Buckle’sallreadynow!Setthisasideuntilthe“BringingtheOutsideTogether”section.
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london calling bagsewing tutorial
Upnextisthehandle.FirstofcourseistofusetheHandle(G)interfacingpiece
totheHandle(G)outerfabricpieceaswellastheTab
(H)interfacingpiecestotheTab(H)outerfabricpieces.
FortheHandle(G),foldundereachlongedgeby1/2”andironinplace,then
foldundereachshortedgeby1/2”andironinplace.To
finish,foldtheentirehandleinhalflengthwisewithwrongsidestogetherandironthewholethingflat.
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WithyourHandle(G)lookingneatandspiffy,edgestitcharoundtheentirepiece.
AttachtheHandle(G)totherectangularmetalringsbyfoldingovertheshortedgesby1”andwrappingthoseedgesaroundtherectangularmetalrings,oneoneachside.Withtheoverlap,sewtheendsofthehandleinplacebygoingbackandforthwithastraightstitchforextrastrength.
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london calling bagsewing tutorial
bringing the outside together
Tomakethetabs,foldundereachlongedgeby1/2”,theneachshortedge
by1/2”andironthefoldsinplace.Thenfoldthewhole
tabinplacewidthwise.Setthoseasideuntilthe“BringingtheOutsideTogether”section.
FirstwestartoffwiththeTopFront(I)andTopBack(J).Justlikewithalotof
theotherpieces,weironthecorrespondinginterfacingpieces
beforewecangetstarted.
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gatheryourTopFront(I)outerfabricandinterfacingpieces,theTopBack(J)outerfabricandinterfacingpieces,4ZipperTab(F)outerfabricpieces,theBottom(K)vinylpiece,yourHandle(G),Strap(L),21”zipper,andouterBackandFrontsections
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Nowprepyourzipper.Trimthezipperto211/4”longandaddtheTabs(F)bysandwichingthezipperbetweentwoTab(F)piecesandsewingthroughallthreelayers.Trimtheseamallowanceto1/4”andpressthefabricawayfromthezipper.
NowapplythezippertoyourTopBack(J)piecewithrightsidesfacing.Alignthelongedgewiththezippertapeandsewitinplacewitha1/4”seamallowance.Whenfinished,sewtheTopFront(I)ontheothersideofthezippertapeinthesamemanner.
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london calling bagsewing tutorial
Whenthezipperisinstalled,pressthefabricawayfromthezipper.To
keepeverythingniceandflat,edgestitchclosetothe
previousseamonbothsidesofthezipper.
Upnextistoaddthehandle.TakeyourHandle(G)piecefromstep36and
theTabs(H)aswell.Loopthetabsaroundtheother
endoftherectangularmetalrings,thenalignthetabsontothepatternguidelinesontheTopBack(J).Wheneverythingisaligned(dabsofglueortapehelphereifpinsaretooobtrusive),sewaroundtheTab(H)inalittlesquaretoanchortheHandle(G).
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Afterthehandle,addintheStrap(L)andBuckleTaboneachside.IwearmybagonmyrighthandsideandIwantpeopletoseethebuckle,sobastedtheBuckleTabontheleftandsideandtheStrap(L)ontheright.Centertherawendsoverthezipperandbasteinplacewithallrightsidesfacingupward.
Nowtoaddthebottom.AligntheshortedgesoftheBottom(K)withthoseofthetopsectionyoujustcreated.Sewthroughallthelayersandrepeatwiththeothersidetoformaring.
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london calling bagsewing tutorial
Sincewe’reworkingwithvinyl,it’sgoingtoreacttotopstitchingalotbetter
thanironing.Soafterfinishingtheseam,foldit
towardsthevinylandedgestitchthepreviousseamtoflattenthingsoutnicely.
Yourtopandbottomareallcomplete!Nowwecanaddittothefrontandback.Taketheedgeofthe
Top/BottomwiththeTopBack(J)sideandlineitupwiththeedgeoftheOuter
Backsectionwecompletedinstep16.You’llseethattheseamsfromstep44shouldlineupwiththesquaremarkingsfromthepattern.
Pinuptheedgestherestoftheway,notingthatyoumightwanttoclipabout3/8”intotheseamallowanceatthecornerstomaketurningaroundthecurveseasier.
Wheneverything’salllinedup,sewtheedgesinplace.MovethezipperslidertothemiddleandrepeatthisstepwiththeOuterFrontsectionandtheothersideoftheTop/Bottom.
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bringing the inside together
TakeyourTopFront(I)andTopBack(J)liningpiecesandfoldunderonelongedgeofeachby1/2”andpressthemflat.
AligntheshortedgeofthesewiththeshortedgeoftheBottom(K)liningpiece.WhenalignedflushwiththeBottom(K),thereshouldbeabouta1/2”gapinthemiddlewherethefoldededgesrest.Sewtheedgestogetherhere.
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gatheryourTopFront(I)liningfabricpiece,theTopBack(J)liningfabricpiece,theBottom(K)liningpiece,theInnerFrontsection,OuterFrontsection,andthewholeOuterBagforlast
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london calling bagsewing tutorial
PresstheseamallowancestowardstheBottom(K)pieceandedgestitchthe
finishedseamjustasinstep45.
GrabyourInnerFrontpieceandaligntheTop/Bottomsectionyoujust
createdaroundit,makingsuretheedgewiththeTop
Front(I)getspinnedtotheInnerFront.We’rerepeatingthesamethingasstep46,sewingtheTop/BottomaroundthesidesoftheInnerFrontandBackpieces.Besuretomatchupthesquaremarkingsandcliptheseamallowancesinthecornerstohelpwiththecurves.Whenyou’vesewntheInnerFrontandBacktobothsides,yourInnerBagisalldone!
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TojointheInnerBagtotheOuterBag,firstturntheOuterBaginsideout.TurntheInnerBagrightsideoutandnestletheOuterBaginside.ThefoldedopeningintheInnerBagshouldlineupwiththezipperfromtheOuterbag,allowingyoutostitchallaroundandjointhetwohalves.Sewitallinplacewithaslipstitchaswellasafewmoretackingstitchesaroundthesideseamstokeepthelininganchoredwithinthebag.
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Pg. 1/15
Pg. 6/15
A1 A2
B1B2
London Calling BagP A T T E R N
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FRONT & BACK (C)Cut 2 on fold of outer fabricCut 2 on fold of lining fabric
Cut 2 on fold of fusible interfacing½” seam allowance
zipper window (back lining only)
side seam point
cut
on fol
d
Pg. 1/15 Pg. 2/15
Pg. 6/15 Pg. 7/15
A1 A2
A3 A4
B3B4
London Calling BagP A T T E R N
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SHORT POCKET (A)Cut 4 on fold of lining fabric
½” seam allowance
cut
on fol
d
Pg. 2/15 Pg. 3/15
Pg. 7/15 Pg. 8/15
A3 A4A5 A6
B5B6
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HIDDEN POCKET (D)Cut 2 on fold of lining fabric
¼” seam allowance
zipper window
cut
on fol
d
cut on fold
cut
on fol
d
Pg. 3/15 Pg. 4/15
Pg. 8/15 Pg. 9/15
A5 A6
A7 A8
B7B8
han
dle t
ab
place
men
t
Pg. 4/15 Pg. 5/15
Pg. 9/15 Pg. 10/15
A7 A8
B9B10
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ZIP
PER T
ABS (F)
Cut
4 o
f ou
ter fa
bric
Cut
4 o
f m
ain s
trip
appliq
ue
fabric
½” se
am a
llow
ance
TABS (H)
Cut
2 o
f ou
ter fa
bric
Cut
2 o
f fu
sible in
terfac
ing
½” se
am a
llow
ance
Lond
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allin
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HANDLE (G)
Cut
1 o
f ou
ter fa
bric
Cut
1 o
f fu
sible in
terfac
ing
½” se
am a
llow
ance
metal ring fold line
metal ring fold line
Pg. 6/15
Pg. 11/15
C1 C2
B1B2
D1D
2
London Calling BagP A T T E R N
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TALL POCKET (B)Cut 3 on fold of lining fabricCut 1 on fold of outer fabric
Cut 1 on fold of fusible interfacing(sans seam allowances)
½” seam allowance
snap placement
cut
on fol
d
Pg. 6/15 Pg. 7/15
Pg. 11/15 Pg. 12/15
C1 C2
C3 C4
B3B4
D3
D4
Lond
on C
allin
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gP
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FRO
NT P
OCKET (E)
Cut
2 o
f ou
ter fa
bric
Cut
2 o
f lin
ing
fabric
Cut
2 o
f fu
sible in
terfac
ing
½” se
am a
llow
ance
appliqu
e gu
idelines
Pg. 7/15 Pg. 8/15
Pg. 12/15 Pg. 13/15
C3 C4C5 C6
D5D
6
B5B6
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BOTTO
M (K)
Cut
1 o
f viny
lCut
1 o
f lin
ing
fabric
½” se
am a
llow
ance
Pg. 8/15 Pg. 9/15
Pg. 13/15 Pg. 14/15
C5 C6 C7 C8
D7D
8B7
B8
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TO
P F
RO
NT (I)
Cut
1 o
f ou
ter fa
bric
Cut
1 o
f lin
ing
fabric
Cut
1 o
f fu
sible in
terfac
ing
½” se
am a
llow
ance
Lond
on C
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TO
P B
ACK (J)
Cut
1 o
f ou
ter fa
bric
Cut
1 o
f lin
ing
fabric
Cut
1 o
f fu
sible in
terfac
ing
½” se
am a
llow
ance
han
dle t
ab
place
men
t
Pg. 9/15 Pg. 10/15
Pg. 14/15 Pg. 15/15
C7 C8
D9
D10
B9B10
London Calling BagP A T T E R N
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BACKGROUND APPLIQUE(VERTICAL STRIPE)Cut 2 of background fabric
Lond
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ACCENT S
TRIP
APPLIQ
UE
(DIA
GO
NAL S
TRIP
E)
Cut
4 o
f ac
cent
fab
ric
Pg. 11/15
E1 E2
D1D
2
not
e: c
ut p
oint
s on
one
end o
nly
Pg. 11/15 Pg. 12/15
E1 E2
E3 E4D
3D
4
London Calling BagP A T T E R N
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London Calling BagP A T T E R N
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London Calling BagP A T T E R N
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STRAP (L)Cut 1 on fold of outer fabric
Cut 1 on fold of fusible interfacing½” seam allowance
Pg. 12/15 Pg. 13/15
E3 E4 E5 E6
D5D
6MAIN STRIPE APPLIQUE
(HORIZONTAL)Cut 2 of main applique fabric
BACKGROUND APPLIQUE(HORIZONTAL STRIPE)
Cut 2 of background fabric
Pg. 13/15 Pg. 14/15
E5 E6
E7 E8
D7D
8London Calling Bag
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BACKGROUND APPLIQUE(DIAGONAL STRIPE)Cut 4 of background fabric
Pg. 14/15 Pg. 15/15
E7 E8
D9
D10
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MAIN
STRIP
E A
PPLIQ
UE
(VERTIC
AL)
Cut
2 o
f m
ain a
ppliq
ue
fabric
cut
on fol
d