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PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Argentina ... 2

Map .................................. 4

20 Top Experiences ....... 6

Need to Know ................. 16

If You Like... ..................... 18

Month by Month ............. 21

Itineraries ........................ 24

Argentina Outdoors ....... 29Travel with Children ...... 34

Regions at a Glance ....... 36

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND ARGENTINA

Argentina Today ............. 556

History ............................. 558

Life in Argentina ............. 568

Argentine Cuisine ........... 570

The Sounds of Argentina 576

Literature & Cinema ...... 578The Natural World .......... 580

USAARGENTINA

population pe

≈15people

“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

PAGE

555

GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

I S B N 9 7 8 - 1 - 7 4 2 2 0 - 0 1 5 - 6

9 7 8 1 74 2 2 0 0 15 6

99625

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd



THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Sandra Bao,

Gregor Clark, Carolyn McCarthy,

Andy Symington, Lucas Vidgen

p470

p267

Sierras

p204Andean Northwest

p299the Central Andes

Tierra del Fuego

p106the Atlantic CoastThe Pampas &

p495

Uruguay

p378Patagonia

p336the Lake District

Bariloche &

Mendoza &

the CentralCórdoba &

p140Northeast ArgentinaIguazú Falls &Salta & the

p42Buenos Aires

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

SURVIVALGUIDE

Directory A–Z ................. 588

Transportation ............... 600

Language ........................ 606

Index ................................ 620

Map Legend .................... 630

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE

ROAD

PAGE

40

PAGE

587



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BUENOS AIRES . . . . . . 42San Isidro . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103

Tigre & the Delta . . . . . . . .103

THE PAMPAS &THE ATLANTICCOAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 106La Plata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108Luján . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110San Antonio de Areco . . . . 112

Tandil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Sierra de la Ventana . . . . .120Parque ProvincialErnesto Tornquist . . . . . . . . 121Santa Rosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Reserva ProvincialParque Luro. . . . . . . . . . . . .123Parque NacionalLihué Calel . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124

ATLANTIC COAST . . . . . . . . 124San Clemente del Tuyú . . .125Pinamar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125Villa Gesell . . . . . . . . . . . . . .127Mar del Plata . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Necochea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136Bahía Blanca . . . . . . . . . . . . 137

IGUAZÚ FALLS &

THE NORTHEAST . . . 140Rosario . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Santa Fe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150Cayastá . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154Paraná . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154Corrientes . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158Mercedes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162Concepción . . . . . . . . . . . . .168

Colón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Parque Nacional

El Palmar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Concordia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172Paso de los Libres . . . . . . . 173Posadas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175San Ignacio . . . . . . . . . . . . .179

IGUAZÚ FALLS . . . . . . . . . . 185Parque Nacional Iguazú . .186Parque NacionalDo Iguaçu (Brazil) . . . . . . .188Puerto Iguazú . . . . . . . . . . .190Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil) . . . .194

THE GRAN CHACO . . . . . . . 197Resistencia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197Parque Nacional Chaco. . .201Roque Sáenz Peña . . . . . . .201

SALTA & THE ANDEAN

NORTHWEST . . . . . . 204Jujuy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205Quebradade Humahuaca . . . . . . . . . . 212La Quiaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .221Yavi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Salta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Tren a las Nubes . . . . . . . . 234San Antoniode los Cobres . . . . . . . . . . 235Salinas Grandes . . . . . . . . 235Valles Calchaquíes . . . . . . 236Cafayate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240Quebrada de Cafayate . . 244Tucumán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Tafí del Valle . . . . . . . . . . . 250Santiago del Estero . . . . . 253

CATAMARCA & LA RIOJA . 256Catamarca . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256

Belén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259La Rioja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260Chilecito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264Parque NacionalTalampaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266

CÓRDOBA &THE CENTRALSIERRAS . . . . . . . . . .267CÓRDOBA . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269

THE CENTRAL SIERRAS . . 281Cosquín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .281La Falda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283La Cumbre . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284Jesús María . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Alta Gracia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286La Cumbrecita . . . . . . . . . 290

Parque NacionalQuebrada del Condorito . .291Mina Clavero . . . . . . . . . . . .291Merlo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292San Luis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294Parque NacionalSierra de las Quijadas . . . 296Valle de las SierrasPuntanas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296

Valle de Conlara . . . . . . . . 298

MENDOZA &THE CENTRALANDES . . . . . . . . . . . .299Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .301Uspallata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317Los Penitentes . . . . . . . . . .319



On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

Parque ProvincialAconcagua . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320

Las Cuevas &Cristo Redentor . . . . . . . . 322San Rafael . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Malargüe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325Las Leñas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326San Juan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328Valle de Calingasta. . . . . . 330San José de Jáchal . . . . . 333Rodeo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333

San Agustínde Valle Fértil . . . . . . . . . . 333Parque ProvincialIschigualasto . . . . . . . . . . . 335

BARILOCHE & THELAKE DISTRICT . . . . 336Neuquén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338Zapala. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340

Parque NacionalLaguna Blanca . . . . . . . . . . 341Copahue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .341Caviahue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342Chos Malal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342Aluminé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345Villa Pehuenia . . . . . . . . . . 346Junín de los Andes . . . . . . 346

Parque Nacional Lanín . . 349San Martín de los Andes . .351Cerro Chapelco . . . . . . . . . .357Villa Traful . . . . . . . . . . . . . .357Villa la Angostura . . . . . . . 358Bariloche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360Parque NacionalNahuel Huapi . . . . . . . . . . 368El Bolsón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371

PATAGONIA . . . . . . . . 378Viedma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379

Puerto Madryn . . . . . . . . . 383Reserva FaunísticaPenínsula Valdés . . . . . . . 389Trelew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395Gaiman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399Camarones . . . . . . . . . . . . .401Cabo Dos Bahías . . . . . . . 402Comodoro Rivadavia . . . . 402

Puerto Deseado . . . . . . . . 405Reserva Natural Ría Deseado& Parque InterjurisdiccionalMarino Isla Pingüino . . . . . 407Puerto San Julián . . . . . . . 408Parque NacionalMonte León . . . . . . . . . . . . .410Río Gallegos . . . . . . . . . . . .410

THE FALKLAND ISLANDS/ISLAS MALVINAS . . . . . . . . 413Esquel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .416Trevelin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420Parque NacionalLos Alerces . . . . . . . . . . . . 422Río Mayo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424Perito Moreno . . . . . . . . . . 425Los Antiguos . . . . . . . . . . . 426Cueva de las Manos . . . . . 427

Bajo Caracoles . . . . . . . . . 427Parque NacionalPerito Moreno . . . . . . . . . . 428El Chaltén . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429Parque NacionalLos Glaciares (North) . . . 434El Calafate . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440Parque NacionalLos Glaciares (South) . . . 446

CHILEAN PATAGONIA . . . 450Punta Arenas . . . . . . . . . . 450

Puerto Natales . . . . . . . . . 456Parque NacionalBernardo O’Higgins . . . . . 462Parque NacionalTorres del Paine . . . . . . . . 462

TIERRA DEL FUEGO . .470Ushuaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471Parque Nacional

Tierra del Fuego . . . . . . . . 482Puerto Williams (Chile) . . 488Tolhuin &Lago Fagnano . . . . . . . . . . 490Río Grande. . . . . . . . . . . . . 490Porvenir (Chile) . . . . . . . . 493

URUGUAY . . . . . . . . . 495MONTEVIDEO . . . . . . . . . . 497

Coloniadel Sacramento . . . . . . . . 516Carmelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 521Mercedes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522Paysandú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 523Salto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526Tacuarembó . . . . . . . . . . . 528Valle Edén . . . . . . . . . . . . . 528Piriápolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 529Punta del Este . . . . . . . . . . 532La Paloma . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540La Pedrera . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542Cabo Polonio . . . . . . . . . . . 543Laguna de Castillos . . . . . 544Punta del Diablo . . . . . . . . 545Parque NacionalSanta Teresa . . . . . . . . . . . 546



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OUR WRITERS

OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense ofadventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler neededfor the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland toAustralia. It took several months, and at the end – broke butinspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and staplingtogether their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London andOakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebookshould do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Sandra Bao Coordinating author; Buenos Aires; The Pampas & the Atlantic Coast Sandra is aChinese-American born in Argentina, and this fact has confused many Chinese,Americans and Argentines she’s met. Perpetually peripatetic, she’s traveled toaround 60 countries and has lived on three continents, but now calls the beauti-

ful Pacific Northwest home. Sandra is proud to be a porteña and regularly re-turns to Argentina to investigate what the wildly fluctuating peso – which keepsher fully employed as a guidebook researcher – is doing. As well as writing many of the chapters ofthis book, over the last decade Sandra has contributed to a couple of dozen Lonely Planet titles onfour continents.

Gregor Clark Uruguay Over the past 20 years, Gregor has traveled South America from tip totail, developing a special fondness for Uruguay while researching the last threeeditions of this book. Favorite memories this time around include surveyingUruguay’s Atlantic coast from atop Sierra de las Ánimas, riding horses through

the rocky landscape of Sierra de Rocha and searching nationwide for the perfectchivito. He has contributed to a dozen other Lonely Planet titles, including Brazil and South America on a Shoestring.

Carolyn McCarthy Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego Author Carolyn McCarthy traveled overland over5000km in winter to make this trip, visiting hundreds of attractions and threeauto mechanics along the way. When not writing about her favorite destinationof Patagonia, she tries to visit tropical nations. In the last seven years she hascontributed to over a dozen Lonely Planet titles. She has also written for Nation-al Geographic, Outside and Lonely Planet Magazine, among other publications.

You can follow her Americas blog at www.carolynswildblueyonder.blogspot.com.

Read more about Gregor at:lonelyplanet.com/members/gregorclark

Read more about Sandra at:lonelyplanet.com/members/sandrabao

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-

able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty aboutthe accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-

mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 983

8th edition – August 2012

ISBN 978 1 74220 015 6

© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012

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Bestselling guide to Argentina – source: Nielsen BookScan, Australia, UK and USA, May 2011 to April 2012

OVERPAGE MOREWRITERS



Andy Symington Iguazú Falls & the Northeast; Salta & the Andean Northwest Andy’s relationshipwith Argentina is a story of four generations: his grandmother lived here in the1920s, and her father had a mate plantation in Corrientes province. Andy firstvisited the country with his own father, the start of a long love affair that hasinvolved many trips all around the continent, a spell living and working in BuenosAires, and a deep-rooted respect for provincial Argentina. Andy hails from Aus-

tralia, lives in northern Spain, and has contributed to many Lonely Planet guidebooks.

Lucas Vidgen Córdoba & the Central Sierras; Mendoza & the Central Andes;Bariloche & the Lake District Lucas first visited Argentina in 2001, and wascaptivated by the country’s wide open spaces and cosmopolitan cities. The hugeamounts of quality beef and wine didn’t go unnoticed, either. Lucas has contrib-uted to a variety of Latin American Lonely Planet titles including various editionsof the Argentina and South America books. He currently lives in Quetzaltenango,

Guatemala where he publishes – and occasionally works on – the city’s leading nightlife and culturemagazine, XelaWho (www.xelawho.com).



Itiner-aries

Whether you’ve got six days or

60, these itineraries provide a

starting point for the trip of a

lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.

com/thorntree to chat with other

travelers.

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MONTEVIDEOPunta del Este

Colonia del

Sacramento

La Plata

Tigre

San Antonio

de Areco

BUENOS AIRES

Tandil

Mar del

Plata

Pinamar

Villa Gesell

URUGUAY

R í o

d e l a

P l a t a

ATLA NTIC

OC EAN

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One Week

A Week Around Buenos Aires

Seen the capital city from top to bottom and wondering what else to do? Well, if you

like water, Tigre is a great nearby choice – a bustling delta and popular porteño

(resident of Buenos Aires) getaway. And not far away is peaceful San Antonio de Areco with a history of gaucho culture and surrounded by estancias – or tidy La

Plata , with its huge cathedral. Perhaps you’d prefer the beach? Pinamar and Villa Gesell make a great summer week-

end trip, as does Mar del Plata – the biggest Argentine beach destination of them all. Or

head inland to Tandil, a pretty town near scenic hills and a large recreational reservoir.

And then there’s Uruguay – just a (relatively) short boat ride away. Colonia del Sacra-mento is truly charming, filled with cobbled streets and atmospheric colonial buildings.

Montevideo is kind of like BA’s little sister – smaller and less frantic, but still off ering big

city delights like a beautiful theater, historic downtown and eclectic architecture. And if

you really want to party, take your bikini to Punta del Este – a magnet for celebrities, rich

porteños and whoever else just wants to have a good time.

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BOLIVIA

BRAZILCHILE

#÷Parque

Nacional

Iguazú

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#÷Reserva FaunísticaPenínsula V aldés

#•Bariloche

Parque N acionalLos Glaciares

Parque N acionalTorres del Paine

Ushuaia

El Calafate

ElChaltén

BUENOSAIRES

Mendoza

Córdoba

Salta

ATLA N TIC

OCE A N

P ACIFIC

OC EAN

PARAGUAY

URUGUAY

FALKLAND ISLANDS(Islas Malvinas)

LakeDistrict

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One Month

Unmissable Argentina

Argentina is a huge country – the world’s eighth largest – and experiencing all its

highlights thoroughly will require at least a month, plus a lot of airplane flights. If

you want to see both the north and south, plan your trip accordingly: Patagonia is

best in January and February, but this is when the northern deserts are at their hot-

test (doing both might be best in spring or fall). Tailor the following destinations to your

tastes, spending more or less time where you want it.

Take a few days to explore the wonders of Buenos Aires, with its fascinating neighbor-

hoods and big-city sights. If it’s the right season, head south for wildlife viewing at ReservaFaunística Península Valdés – the whales, elephant seals and penguins are especially

popular. From here hop a flight to Ushuaia , the southernmost city in the world and prime jumping-off point to Antarctica (add another two weeks and minimum US$5000 for this

trip!).

Now you’ll head north (your only choice) to El Calafate, where the stunning PeritoMoreno Glacier (in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares) is one of the world’s most unique

sights. If you love the outdoors, cross the border to Chile’s Parque Nacional Torres delPaine, an awe-inspiring cluster of mountains boasting some of earth’s most beautiful land-

scapes. Back in Argentina is El Chaltén, another world-class climbing, trekking and camp-

ing destination.

Further up the spine of the Andes is Argentina’s Lake District , where a chocolate stop

in Bariloche is a must. Gorgeous scenery, outdoor activities and lovely nearby towns caneasily add days to your itinerary. Your next destination is now Mendoza , Argentina’s wine

mecca, which also off ers great outdoor adventures and mind-blowing Andean scenery. A 10-

hour bus ride lands you in Córdoba , the country’s second-largest city with amazing coloni-

al architecture and cutting-edge culture. From here it’s a flight north to pretty Salta , where

you can explore colorful canyons, charming villages and cacti-dotted desert panoramas.

Pack up your bags again and head east to Parque Nacional Iguazú, where the world’s

most massive falls will simply astound you – they’re nearly 3km long and made up of 200

separate waterfalls. Now fl y back to Buenos Aires, do what you missed doing the first time

around (or do the stuff you loved again) and party till your plane leaves.

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» (above) Tigre (p103)

» (left) Glaciar Perito Moreno (p446)

A N G E L T E R R Y / A L A MY ©

MI C H A E L T A Y L O R /

L O NE L Y P L A NE T I MA G E S ©


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BOLIVIA

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Puerto Madryn

Malargüe

Chos Malal

El Calafate

Ushuaia

Mendoza

Puerto Natales

#÷ ParqueN acionalIguazú

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#÷Reserva FaunísticaPenínsula Valdés

Bariloche

ElChaltén

ATL A NTIC

OC E AN

PACI F I C

OCEA N

PARAGUAY

URUGUAY

Lak eDistrict

ElBolsón

#•VillaTraful

#÷Parque N acionalTierra del Fuego

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VallesCalchaquíes

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La Quiaca

Parque N acional N ahuel Huapi

Parque N acional Lanín

Cueva delasManos

Beag l e Channe l

RíoGallegos

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LosAntiguos

#÷Parque NacionalTorres del Pai e

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Patagonian Passage

Ruta Nacional 40

Two to Three Weeks

Patagonian Passage

Begin in Ushuaia , in Tierra del Fue-

go, where you can kayak or hop on

a boat to cruise around the Beagle

Channel. Nearby Parque NacionalTierra del Fuego off ers a few end-of-the-

world hikes (literally).

Now fl y to El Calafate, in Patagonia, and

lay your eyes on the spectacular and unfor-

gettable Perito Moreno Glacier in Parque

Nacional Los Glaciares. You’ll also wantto bus down to Puerto Natales and hike

in the famous Parque Nacional Torres delPaine – you’ll need at least four to six days

here to appreciate it fully. Head north again

to El Chaltén for world-class hiking and

camping in the Fitz Roy Range.

With an extra week, fl y to the Lake Dis- trict and Bariloche, where you can hike (or

fish, or raft, or bike) for days on end in the

gorgeous national parks of Nahuel Huapi and Lanín. If you have an extra day or two,

take a day trip to the hippie enclave of ElBolsón, or to the cute village of Villa Traful.

Finally, stop in Puerto Madryn to see

the whales, elephant seals and penguins at

Reserva Faunística Península Valdés –

just make sure they’re in season.

One Month

Ruta Nacional 40

Argentina’s quintessential road trip,

RN 40 travels the length of Argen-

tina (more than 5000km) and through

some of the country’s remotest regions.

Start in La Quiaca , at the border with

Bolivia. Heading south, you’ll pass through

the wildly scenic villages of Valles Cal-chaquíes. Then it’s a pause at lovely Ca- fayate, before passing traditional San José

de Jáchal. Take a breather in Mendoza todrink wine, then explore the volcanic land-

scapes around Malargüe.

Continue south, stopping to check out

the lagoons and hot springs around ChosMalal. Detour to the national parks of

Lanín and Nahuel Huapi for epic hiking

before hitting Bariloche. Further on, con-

sider sidetracking to Los Antiguos if it’s

cherry season, and stop at Cueva de las

Manos for indigenous art. Take a side trip to El Chaltén for hiking,

then drive to El Calafate and see the Perito

Moreno Glacier. Cross the border to Chile

and explore stunning Parque NacionalTorres del Paine before doglegging west to

Río Gallegos, where RN 40 ends nearby at

Cabo Virgenes. Now consider continuing

to Ushuaia on RN 3; it’s as far south as any

highway in the world goes.

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Salta

Tilcara

Cachi

Quebrada

de Cafayate

Molinos

Cafayate

Tafí del Valle Tucumán

CórdobaSan Juan

Mendoza

San Rafael

Reserva ProvincialEsteros del Ibera

ParqueNacional

Iguazú

Parque NacionalTalampaya

Parque ProvincialIschigualasto

Barreal

Rodeo, Huaco& San José de

Jáchal

CerroAconcagua

#•Cañon de Atuel

CHILE

PARAGUAY

BRAZIL

URUGUAY

PACIF IC

OCEAN

VallesCalchaquíes

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Quebrada deHumahuaca

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Wine and Adventuresaround Mendoza

Northern Adventure Loop

Two Weeks

Mendoza Wine & Adventures

Uncork your trip in beautiful Men-doza , located on the flanks of the

Andes. Not only are there world-

class vineyards surrounding the city,

but outdoor enthusiasts will be in heaven.

White-water rafting and skiing are awesome

in the area, and Cerro Aconcagua (the

western hemisphere’s highest peak) isn’t too

far away.

Now take a crack-of-dawn bus to San Ra- fael, where you can rent a bike and ride out

to the city’s wineries – some of which special-

ize in sparkling wine. The area is also home

to scenic Cañon de Atuel, a colorful, mini

Grand Canyon. Then backtrack up north to

San Juan to try the excellent syrah and oth-

er regional whites produced near this leafy

provincial capital. You can also rent a car

and head west to ethereal Barreal for raft-

ing, mountaineering and land sailing, thengo further north to explore the remote and

traditional villages of San José de Jáchal,Rodeo and Huaco. Finally, be sure to visit

the amazing landscapes of Parque Provin-cial Ischigualasto and Parque NacionalTalampaya , both boasting spectacular rock

formations – along with petroglyphs and di-

nosaur fossils.

Three Weeks

Northern Adventure Loop

Start in Córdoba , Argentina’s second-

largest city, to explore one of the finest

colonial centers.

Nowfl y north to historicTucumán

for some eclectic architecture and a lively

street scene. Over to the west is pretty Tafídel Valle, and getting there via a gorgeous

mountain road is half the fun. A bit further

north is beautiful Cafayate, the place to

knock back some aromatic torrontés wine.Sober up and travel through the epic Que- brada de Cafayate to Salta , whose central

plaza is one of Argentina’s best preserved;

this is also where the famous ‘Train to the

Clouds’ begins.

From Salta, head back south to the other-

worldly region of Valles Calchaquíes, and

the adobe villages of Cachi and Molinos.

After this peaceful interlude, journey back

north through the magnificently eroded val-ley of Quebrada de Humahuaca , where

you can overnight in lively little Tilcara . Return to Salta and fl y to the incredible

Parque Nacional Iguazú, home to nearly

unbelievable waterfalls. And if you like ani-

mals, another worthy destination is Reser- va Provincial Esteros del Iberá , an amaz-

ing wetlands preserve full of capybaras,

caimans and countless bird species.

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