PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to India ............ 220 Top Experiences ....... 6Need to Know ................. 14If You Like... ..................... 16Month by Month ............. 20Itineraries ........................ 25Booking Trains ................ 31Trekking ........................... 33Yoga, Spas & Spiritual Pursuits ........................... 35Volunteering ................... 39Travel With Children ....... 45Regions at a Glance ....... 48

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND INDIA

India Today ...................... 1080History ............................. 1083The Way of Life ............... 1101Spiritual India ................. 1106Delicious India ................ 1114The Great Indian Bazaar 1124Sacred Architecture ...... 1134The Arts........................... 1139Elephants & Tigers:India’s Sanctuaries ........ 1146The Landscape ............... 1151

m 41 would speak Hindi55 would speak one of 21 other official languages4 would speak one of around 400 other languagesNote: 10 of these 100 will speak English as asecond language

if India were100 people

History India’s story is one of the grand epics of world histsands of years of great civilisations, invasions, thecountless cataclysms, India has time and again prwords of its rst prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehrdictions held together by strong but invisible threaalways been a work in progress, a process of reinventhat can prove elusive for those seeking to gras its

Generally speaking, Brahmanical em ires andnasties dominated for over a millennium efore

Soul Stirring Bamboozling. There’s simply no other word that captures the enigma that is India. With an ability to inspire, frustrate, thrill and confound all at once, India presents an ex-traordinary spectrum of encounters for the traveller. Some of these can be challenging,

i l l f h i i i h

Spectacularly Diverse With its in-your-face diversity – from snowdusted mountains to sun-washed beachestranquil temples to frenetic bazaars, lantern-lit villages to software-supremo cities –it’s hardly surprising that this countryhas been dubbed the world’s most multi

India bristles with an eclectic melange of ethnic groups; an intoxicating cultural cocktail for the traveller. With such astonishing diversity, you will be taken on a journey that will linger in your mind long after you’ve left her shores.

Welcome to India

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

1

PAGE

1079GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

Yoga, Spas & Spiritual Pursuits Ashrams India has hundreds of ashrams – places of communal living established around the philosophies of a guru (a spiritual guide or teacher). Programs usually involve discourse, yoga and/or meditation.

Ayurveda Ayurveda is the ancient science of Indian herbal medicine and holistic healing, which uses natural treatments, massage and other therapies.

Buddhist Meditation There are plenty of courses and retreats o ering vipassana (mindfulness meditation) and Buddhist philosophy; some require a vow of silence and many also ban smoking, alcohol and sex.

Spa Treatments Pampering opportunities abound in India; choices range from a simple massage to a full day of beauti cation (and relaxation) at luxurious health centres.

Yoga Yoga’s roots lay rmly in India and you’ll nd hundreds of schools to suit all levels.

Travellers with an interest in spirituality or al-ternative therapies will nd an array of cours-es and treatments in India that strive to heal mind, body and spirit. Some o er spiritual en-lightenment within ve-star accommodation while others o er basic dwellings and require a vow of silence. Meditation, ayurveda and es-pecially yoga are attracting an ever-increasing number of visitors. So whether you’re seeking a guru or just a really good massage, India al-most guarantees instant karma.

Ashrams Many ashrams have made a name for them-selves – both within India and abroad – thanks to their charismatic (and sometimes controversial) gurus. Some programs are more intensive than others and codes of conduct vary so make sure you’re willing to abide by them before committing. Many people visit India speci cally to spend time at an ashram – literally a ‘place of striving’ – for spiritual and personal enrichment. However, a little caution is required. Some ashrams tread a ne line between spiritual community and personality cult, and there have been reports of questionable happen-ings at ashrams, often of a sexual nature.

Choosing an ashram will depend on your spiritual leanings. All ashrams have a code of conduct, and visitors are usually required to adhere to strict rules, which may include a certain dress code, a daily regimen of yoga

35

Know Currency

» Indian Rupees ( ) Language

» Hindi and En

High Season (Dec–Mar)

» Pleasant weather, mostly. Peak tourists. Peak prices.

» In December and January northern cities can get cold, bitterly so in the far north.

» It starts heating up in February.

Shoulder Season (Jul–Nov)

» July to early September is the prime time to visit Ladakh.

» India’s southeast coast (and southern Kerala) experience heavy rain any time from October to early December.

Low Season (Apr–Jun)

» April is hot; May and June even hotter. Competitive hotel prices.

» From June the monsoon sweeps from south to north. Fatiguing humidity.

» Beat the heat (but not the crowds) in the cool hills

When to Go

#

#

#

#

#

Desert, dry climateMild to hot summers, cold wintersTropical climate, rain year roundTropical climate, wet dry seasonsWarm to hot summers, mild winters

DelhiGO Nov–Mar

Mumbai (Bombay)GO Nov–Feb

LehGO Jul–Sep

Bengaluru (Bangalore)GO Nov–Mar

Kolkata (Calcutta)GO Nov–Mar

Your DBudget

» Prices (espeaccommodativary widely acthe country – regional chapton-the-ground

Budget » Stay at chea

guesthouses wshared bathrohostels.

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» Hire a car wdriver – but dothe adventureautorickshaw

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Cherrapunjee(Sohra)

Mon

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SiliguriDarjeeling

GangtokNamchi

PellingYuksom

Goecha La

Tashiding

NEPAL

INDIA

BANGLADESH

BHUTAN

MYANMAR(BURMA)

TawangValley

ManasNational Park

KazirangaNational Park

MIZORAM

#•

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É

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#•

É

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Main RouteNon-Permit Opt

One MonthSikkim & The Northeast States

Surprisingly few people explore mountainous Sikkim and the tribal heartlandia’s Northeast States. You have the chance to get even further from the toucuit in tribal Nagaland, Mizoram and Arunachal Pradesh, providing you canthe required permits. You will need to plan your trip in advance and have a cl

of your schedule. Also make sure you are aware of the security risks. Obtain a Sikkim permit in Siliguri or in Darjeeling, where you can sample

most famous teas while enjoying the glories of the classic Indian hill station. Then Gangtok, the Sikkimese capital, and visit the surrounding Buddhist monasteri

Looking for other travel resources?

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AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

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UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT%020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101

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STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact

AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

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UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT%020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101

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india-14-cover.indd 2india-14-cover.indd 2 10/06/2011 5:06:43 PM10/06/2011 5:06:43 PM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Sarina Singh,Michael Benanav, Lindsay Brown, Stuart Butler, Mark Elliott, Katja Gaskell, Trent Holden, Abigail Hole, Kate James, Amy Karafi n, Anirban Mahapatra,

Bradley Mayhew, Daniel McCrohan, John Noble, Kevin Raub

#

#

#

^

^

_

Jammu & Kashmir(including Ladakh)

p222Himachal Pradesh

p278Haryana & Punjab

p199Uttarakhand

p401

Rajasthanp104

Uttar Pradesh &the Taj Mahal

p345 Bihar &Jharkhand

p506

Sikkimp526 Northeast

Tribal Statesp550

West Bengal& Darjeeling

p474

Odishap584

Madhya Pradesh& Chhattisgarh

p610Gujarat

p669

Maharashtrap757

Goap795

AndhraPradesh

p891Karnataka

& Bengalurup835

Tamil Nadu& Chennai

p981Keralap919

AndamanIslandsp1061

Delhip56

Kolkata(Calcutta)

p442Mumbai(Bombay)

p719

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Scams .............................. 1156Women & Solo Travellers......................... 1158Directory A–Z ................. 1160Transport ........................ 1175Health .............................. 1188Language ........................ 1195Index ................................ 1213

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

Women and solo travellers may encounter a few extra hurdles when travelling in India – from cost (for those travelling by themselves) to appropriate clothing (wom-en). As with anywhere else, it pays to be prepared.

Women Travellers

» Steer clear of sleeveless tops, shorts, miniskirts (ankle-length skirts are recommended) and anything else that’s skimpy, see-through or tight- tting.

» Wearing Indian-style clothes makes a positive im-pression and can consider-ably de ect harassment.» Draping a dupatta (long

Hea » San

availausualcies intourischoicadditio the

» For issuesseek o

» Seematio

Sexu Manyreporal har

» Mourbanand p

Women & Solo

Travellers

expby lerswo.wa.co

PAGE

54

PAGE

1155

Look out for these icons:

o Our author’s recommendation S A green or

sustainable option F No payment required

DELHI . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56GREATER DELHI . . . . . . . . .102

RAJASTHAN . . . . . . . 104Jaipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108Pushkar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139Ranthambhore National Park . . . . . . . . . . .145Bundi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Udaipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154Jodhpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Jaisalmer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182

HARYANA & PUNJAB . . . . . . . . . . . 199Chandigarh . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Haryana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210Kurukshetra (Thanesar) . .210PUNJAB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211Anandpur Sahib . . . . . . . . . 211Sirhind . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211Patiala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211Amritsar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212

JAMMU & KASHMIR (INCLUDING LADAKH) . . . . . . . . . . 222JAMMU & THE KASHMIR VALLEY . . . . . . 226Jammu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227Srinagar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .231Kargil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240Zanskar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .241LADAKH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243Leh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244

HIMACHAL PRADESH. . . . . . . . . . 278Shimla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Kinnaur Valley . . . . . . . . . . 290Great Himalayan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 296Parvati Valley . . . . . . . . . . 297Manali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304McLeod Ganj . . . . . . . . . . . .316LAHAUL & SPITI . . . . . . . . 336

UTTAR PRADESH & THE TAJ MAHAL . . . . 345Agra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347Mathura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368Lucknow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370Ayodhya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .376Allahabad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .377Varanasi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383Sarnath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396

UTTARAKHAND . . . . 401Dehra Dun . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404Mussoorie . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408Haridwar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .412Rishikesh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417Corbett Tiger Reserve . . . 430Ranikhet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436

KOLKATA (CALCUTTA) . . . . . . 442

WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING . . . . . . . 474Sunderbans Tiger Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .477

Bishnupur . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479Shantiniketan . . . . . . . . . . 479WEST BENGAL HILLS . . . 482Siliguri & New Jalpaiguri . . 482Darjeeling . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487Kalimpong . . . . . . . . . . . . . 499

BIHAR & JHARKHAND . . . . . . 506BIHAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 509Patna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 509Raxaul. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .514Bodhgaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .516JHARKHAND . . . . . . . . . . . 523Ranchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 523

SIKKIM . . . . . . . . . . . .526Gangtok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530Gangtok to Singhik . . . . . 538Namchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540Jorethang (Naya Bazaar) . .541Ravangla (Rabongla) . . . . .541Pelling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543The Monastery Loop . . . . 545

NORTHEAST TRIBAL STATES . . . . 550ASSAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 553ARUNACHAL PRADESH . . 564NAGALAND . . . . . . . . . . . . 570MANIPUR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .573MIZORAM. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .574TRIPURA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .576MEGHALAYA . . . . . . . . . . . .579

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

ODISHA . . . . . . . . . . . 584Bhubaneswar . . . . . . . . . . 587Puri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 594Konark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 599Chilika Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . .601Gopalpur-on-Sea . . . . . . . 602Rayagada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 604Onkadelli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 605

MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH . . 610Gwalior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .613Orchha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .618Khajuraho . . . . . . . . . . . . . 623Bhopal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 633Sanchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 639Pachmarhi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 643CHHATTISGARH . . . . . . . . 664Raipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 665Jagdalpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 666

GUJARAT . . . . . . . . . . 669Ahmedabad (Amdavad) . .672Vadodara (Baroda) . . . . . 684Bhavnagar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 688Palitana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 690Diu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 692Junagadh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 700Jamnagar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 706KACHCHH (KUTCH) . . . . . .710Wild Ass Sanctuary . . . . . .716

MUMBAI (BOMBAY) . 719GREATER MUMBAI . . . . . . 756Elephanta Island . . . . . . . . 756

MAHARASHTRA . . . . 757Nasik. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 760Aurangabad . . . . . . . . . . . . 764Ellora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 769Ajanta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .772Nagpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .776Konkan Coast . . . . . . . . . . .778Karla & Bhaja Caves . . . . 783Pune . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 783

GOA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 795Panaji (Panjim) . . . . . . . . . 800Old Goa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 807Mapusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .810Calangute & Baga . . . . . . .813Anjuna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .818Vagator & Chapora . . . . . .821Morjim & Asvem . . . . . . . . 823Mandrem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 823Arambol (Harmal) . . . . . . 824

KARNATAKA & BENGALURU . . . . . . . 835Bengaluru (Bangalore) . . 837Mysore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .851Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve 864Kodagu (Coorg) Region . . 866Mangalore . . . . . . . . . . . . . 869Udupi (Udipi) . . . . . . . . . . .873Gokarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .874Hampi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 876

ANDHRA PRADESH . . 891Hyderabad & Secunderabad . . . . . . . . . . 894Nagarjunakonda . . . . . . . . 907

Visakhapatnam . . . . . . . . . . 911Vijayawada. . . . . . . . . . . . . .914Tirumala & Tirupathi . . . . .915Puttaparthi . . . . . . . . . . . . .918Lepakshi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .918

KERALA . . . . . . . . . . . 919Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) . . . . . . . . . . . 922Varkala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 932Kollam (Quilon) . . . . . . . . 936Alappuzha (Alleppey) . . . 938Kochi (Cochin) . . . . . . . . . 952Thrissur (Trichur) . . . . . . . 967LAKSHADWEEP . . . . . . . . 978

TAMIL NADU & CHENNAI . . . . . . . . . . 981CHENNAI (MADRAS) . . . . 985Kanchipuram. . . . . . . . . . 1008Puducherry (Pondicherry) . . . . . . . . . . 1014Thanjavur (Tanjore) . . . . 1025Trichy (Tiruchirappalli) . . 1029Madurai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1036Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1041Ooty (Udhagamandalam) . . . . 1052

ANDAMANISLANDS . . . . . . . . . 1061Port Blair . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1067Havelock Island . . . . . . . .1072Neil Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .1074Middle & NorthAndaman . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1075Little Andaman . . . . . . . . . 1077

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Itiner-aries

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PAKISTAN

UTTARPRADESH

MADHYA PRADESH&

CHHATTISGARH

Fatehpur Sikri

Agra

Jaipur

DELHI

Keoladeo GhanaNational Park

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HARYANA &PUNJAB

RAJASTHAN

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One WeekThe Golden Triangle

One route is so well loved it even has a name: the Golden Triangle. This classic Delhi–Agra–Jaipur trip can be squeezed into a single week.

Spend a day or two in Delhi fi nding your feet and seeing the big-draw sights, such as the magnifi cent Mughal Red Fort and Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque.

Then catch a convenient train to Agra to spend a day being awed by the world’s most ex-travagant monument to love, the Taj Mahal, and exploring the mighty Agra Fort. Only an hour away is Fatehpur Sikri, a beautiful Mughal city dating from the apogee of Mughal power. It is amazingly well preserved and deserves a full day of exploring.

If you have time, take a rural respite at Keoladeo Ghana National Park, one of the world’s foremost bird reserves. Having relaxed at this beautiful and rewarding place, you can then take a train to Jaipur. Spend a couple of days in and around Rajasthan’s hectic, dusky-pink capital, seeing the City Palace and Amber Fort, and stocking up on blue pot-tery, dazzling jewellery and Rajasthani puppets before heading back to Delhi.

Whether you’ve got six days or Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these 60, these itineraries provide a itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.travellers.

2 5

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

ERA

RIES

INDIANOCEAN

ARABIANSEA

BAY OFBENGAL

AFGHANISTAN

PAKISTAN

NEPAL

INDIA

BHUTAN

CHINA

BANGLADESHMYANMAR(BURMA)

SRILANKAMALDIVES

NicobarIslands

AndamanIslands

Amber

Kumbhalgarh& Ranakpur

Pushkar

Jodhpur

Udaipur

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Two WeeksA Rajasthan Ramble

This much-loved circuit, which explores India’s most colourful state, starts and ends in the bustling capital, Delhi, then surveys Rajasthan’s greatest hits: it takes in pink, blue, white and golden cities, and visits the region’s mightiest forts and most exqui-site temples. The circuit fi nishes on a high with a camel safari in the desert, before a

day’s exploration in Delhi. Spend day one in Delhi, visiting the calm site of Humayun’s Tomb, before attending the

sound-and-light show at the historic Red Fort. On day two, take the train to Jaipur to soak up the sights of the Old City. Fill most of day

three by exploring the fairy-tale fort at Amber, then browse Jaipur’s bazaars. On day four, take the bus to the holy town of Pushkar. Spend a few days here, chilling

out and taking your time visiting the lakeside temples and then, on day seven, travel on-ward to graceful Udaipur. Again, you can relax and sightsee for a couple of days. Make time for an extravagant meal at the palace on the lake.

Next, on day nine, take a taxi and visit Kumbhalgarh and the temple at Ranakpur en route to the Blue City, Jodhpur. In Jodhpur you can admire the pastel-painted houses and magnifi cent Mehrangarh Fort

On day 11, take the bus or train through the desert to the ancient fortress of Jaisalmer to relive your Arabian Nights fantasies on a camel safari in the dunes. Finally, on day 13, make your way back to Delhi, where you can visit the Jama Masjid, dive into the surround-ing bazaars and fi nish off with some last-minute shopping.

2 6

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

ERA

RIESMunnar

KovalamVarkala

Kochi (Cochin)Alappuzha (Alleppey)

Agra

DELHI

Jaipur

INDIANOCEAN

ARABIANSEA

BAY OFBENGAL

AFGHANISTAN

PAKISTAN

NEPAL

INDIA

BHUTAN

BANGLADESH

CHINA

MYANMAR(BURMA)

SRILANKAMALDIVES

NicobarIslands

AndamanIslands

Keoladeo GhanaNational Park

RanthamboreNational Park

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Three WeeksA Taste Of North & South

For a smattering of the north, and a sprinkling of the south, this trip is ideal. Wallow in the cultural and artistic wealth of Delhi, Agra and Rajasthan before fl ying south for some serene relaxation, including boating in tranquil backwaters, yoga, massage and the beach.

Start by visiting the sights of Delhi, such as the Red Fort, Qutb Minar and Humayun’s Tomb, then head to Agra and the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri. Next, if you have time, stop at Keoladeo Ghana National Park to see the rich birdlife, and then Ran-thambore National Park to spot tigers and explore the wild jungle setting, before heading to the confounding Pink City of Jaipur. Visit Amber Fort, browse the amazing bazaars of Jaipur and peek from behind the shutters at the Hawa Mahal before returning to Delhi to start the southern part of your trip.

Prepare to relax: fl y south to Kochi (Cochin), where you can stay in a gorgeous ex-colo-nial mansion in evocative Fort Cochin, catch a Kathakali performance, and spend a cou-ple of nights exploring this exotic spice port with its historic synagogue, Chinese fi shing nets, and delicious restaurants, as well as the remarkable Kerala Folklore Museum. The next delight is launching off into the backwaters of Kerala. The main launch point is from Alappuzha (Alleppey), from where you can take a slow cruise in a houseboat, watching life on the water, kicking back and sleeping under the stars. If you have time, you could head for the hills, staying in a remote hideaway, trekking around the tea plantations, visiting spice gardens and discovering the breathtaking views around Munnar. Next stop, the beach: try the less-visited sands around Varkala, with its backpacker vibe, dramatic sea-cliff s and long sandy beaches, or the more mainstream town of Kovalam. To experience Zen-like calm before taking your return fl ight from Kochi, do yoga and meditation at a local ashram and revel in Ayurvedic treatments such as synchronised massage.

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PLAN YO

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Ziro

Cherrapunjee(Sohra)

Mon

KohimaShillong

Agartala

SiliguriDarjeeling

GangtokNamchi

PellingYuksom

Goecha La

Tashiding

NEPAL

INDIA

BANGLADESH

CHINA

BHUTAN

MYANMAR(BURMA)

TawangValley

ManasNational Park

KazirangaNational Park

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Main RouteNon-Permit Option

One MonthSikkim & The Northeast States

Surprisingly few people explore mountainous Sikkim and the tribal heartland of In-dia’s Northeast States. You have the chance to get even further from the tourist cir-cuit in tribal Nagaland, Mizoram and Arunachal Pradesh, providing you can obtain the required permits. You will need to plan your trip in advance and have a clear idea

of your schedule. Also make sure you are aware of the security risks. Obtain a Sikkim permit in Siliguri or in Darjeeling, where you can sample India’s

most famous teas while enjoying the glories of the classic Indian hill station. Then head to Gangtok, the Sikkimese capital, and visit the surrounding Buddhist monasteries, situ-ated along tortuous lanes that cut through mountainous forested landscape.

Veer to Namchi to see the giant statues of Shiva and Padmasambhava perched on their hilltops, and to Pelling, to see the inspiring views of the white-peaked Khangchendzonga and the beautiful Pemayangtse Gompa, ringed by gardens and monks’ cottages. Take the week- or 10-day-long trek from Yuksom to Goecha La, a 4940m pass with incredible views. Exit Sikkim via Tashiding, with yet more wonderful views and another beautifully set gompa, before returning to Siliguri for the journey east to Assam.

In Guwahati, the Assamese capital, arrange tours and permits for the Northeast States: the remote areas of Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Mizoram and Manipur. If you can’t get a permit, try this loop: from Guwahati, head to Manas and Kaziranga National Parks to spot rare wildlife. Detour to sleepy Shillong, and the waterfalls and incredible living root bridges of Cherrapunjee (Sohra). From Agartala, capital of Tripura, head by air or land to Bangladesh.

With the right permits, head from Guwahati to Arunachal Pradesh for the stunning Buddhist monastery in the Tawang Valley, or the tribal villages near Ziro, where the elder Apatani women have dramatic facial tattoos and nose plugs. A Nagaland permit opens up fascinating tribal villages around Mon, rugged countryside dotted by traditional long houses and remote settlements, and the capital Kohima. Manipur permits are rarely granted, but there’s a fair chance of eyeing Mizo culture in Mizoram.

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Two/Three WeeksCentral Temples

Discover some of India’s most spiri-tual places in this trip around Bihar, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan and Ut-tar Pradesh.

Start your trip in the cultured yet chaotic city of Kolkata, and then travel west to Bod-hgaya, the birthplace of Buddhism and where Buddha attained enlightenment. Roll across the plains to the sacred city of Varanasi, one of India’s holiest places, then to Khajuraho, where temples drip with erotic carvings.

Head southwest through the tranquil village of Orchha, with its imposing 17th-century palaces, to Sanchi, where Emperor Ashoka embraced Buddhism. In Bhopal catch the train to Jalgaon, a jumping-off point for the wonderful Ajanta Caves.

You could then head upwards through Rajasthan, stopping in whimsical Udaipur, with its lakes and palaces, before visiting the extraordinary Jain temples of Ranakpur. Next stop is the holy pilgrimage town of Pushkar, then a trip to Dargah at nearby Ajmer, one of India’s most holy Islamic sites. After this you can make your way to Jaipur, from where you can catch the train to Agra’s Taj Mahal. From here it’s a short trip to Delhi for some last-minute sightsee-ing and shopping before fl ying home.

Two WeeksNorthern Mountains

This northern exploration takes in some of India’s most sumptuous views. It starts in Kolkata (Calcutta), draws a snaking line through some of

the highlights of West Bengal, Uttar Pradesh, Himachal Pradesh, Ladakh, Kashmir and Punjab, and fi nishes up in Delhi. Time your schedule so that the last leg through Ladakh falls between July and October, when the mountain passes are open.

Pass a few days enjoying the atmosphere and food in Kolkata, the busy and frenetic cultural metropolis that is home to the Victo-ria Memorial. Next, dash northwest to spot tigers in Corbett Tiger Reserve and practise yoga in India’s New Age capital, Rishikesh. Connect through Dehra Dun and Chandi-garh to Shimla, India’s premier hill station, where you can relax or trek into the hills.

Bus it to Manali for some adrenalin-charged activities, then ride the mountain bus to Buddhist city Leh. If the political sit-uation allows, head to Srinagar in Kashmir, then through Jammu to McLeod Ganj, home of the Dalai Lama and India’s centre of Tibetan Buddhism.

It’s a relatively short trip southwest to Amritsar, with its shimmering Golden Temple before one last train ride to Delhi.

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ARABIANSEA

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AFGHANISTAN

PAKISTAN

NEPAL BHUTAN

CHINA

BANGLADESH

MYANMAR(BURMA)

SRILANKAMALDIVES

INDIA

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Rishikesh

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ManaliAmritsar

LehJammu

Shimla

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Khajuraho

Sanchi

Bodhgaya

Jalgaon

Jaipur

RanakpurUdaipur

Srinagar

Kolkata(Calcutta)

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Varanasi

Pushkar & Ajmer Agra

Bhopal

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Two WeeksSouthwest Coastal Towns

This laid-back trip meanders along some of India’s fi nest beaches and most charismatic southwest towns, and also off ers some stunning cul-

tural and temple stops. Start at Mumbai’s Chowpatty Beach

with a plate of bhelpuri (crisp fried thin rounds of dough) while looking out over the Arabian Sea. Cruise to the stunning rock-cut temples on Elephanta Island, then travel south by train to beach-blessed Goa. Enjoy the best of the sand at Arambol, Vagator and Palolem, then continue along the coast to the sacred town of Gokarna. Next, veer inland to the ruined Vijayanagar temples at Hampi and the Hoysala temples of Belur and Halebid.

Head further south, along the coast, to the enigmatic ex-colonial melting pot Ko-chi for a Kathakali performance and to feel the palpable history of this ancient, laid-back port. Cruise Kerala’s languorous backwaters from Alappuzha via canoe or houseboat, before dipping your toes in the warm waters around beach resorts Varkala or Kovalam, and visiting off -the-track museums at Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) before fl ying out.

Two/Three WeeksSoutheast Beaches & Caves

Mumbai is the borderline between north and south, and the easiest starting point for exploring India’s steamy southern tip. Time your trip

to avoid the monsoon – the sunniest skies are from October to February.

Kick off shopping, eating and drinking in cosmopolitan Mumbai before heading inland to Ellora and Ajanta to marvel at Maharashtra’s fi nest cave art.

Travel inland to wonderful Hampi, with its temple ruins and giant boulders. Rub shoulders with yuppies in the bars of Bengaluru (Bangalore), smell the incense in spicy Mysore with its extravagant Ma-haraja’s Palace, and feast on a banana-leaf thali. Zoom south to the awesome Sri Meenakshi Temple in Madurai, then return north through the temple towns of Trichy, Thanjavur and Chidambaram.

Next, head for the coast and the decadent grace of hectic, French-fl avoured Puduch-erry (Pondicherry). For desert-island beach splendour, visit the sun-soaked Andaman Islands. Stop off at the ruins of Mamal-lapuram (Mahabalipuram) by sunset, then dine in Tamil Nadu’s busy capital, Chennai (Madras), before heading home.

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CHINA

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INDIA

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Belur & Halebid

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Southeast Beaches & Temple CavesSouthwest Coastal Towns

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Bradley Mayhew West Bengal & Darjeeling, Sikkim Bradley has been visiting the Himalaya for 20 years now, exploring from Ladakh to Bhutan. For this edition he focused on Sik-kim and the West Bengal Hills. Bradley has also been the coordinating author of Lonely Planet guides Bhutan, Nepal and Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya. He was recently the subject of a fi ve-part Arte/SWR documentary retracing the route of Marco Polo, from Venice to Xanadu, through Iran, Afghanistan and Central Asia. See what he’s up to at www.bradleymayhew.blogspot.com.

Daniel McCrohan Uttar Pradesh & the Taj Mahal, Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh Daniel has been travelling to India on and off for almost 20 years, and has a deep affi nity with the central regions having covered them for the past two editions of this guidebook. Originally a London-based newspaper journalist, he later turned to travel writing and now specialises in China, where he lives, and India, which he visits regularly for the chai, the thali and the (slightly scary) wet shaves. Daniel has cowritten more than half a dozen Lonely Planet guidebooks. He also writes travel apps and is the cohost of the television series Best in China. Find out more at danielmccrohan.com. Daniel also wrote the Taj Mahal and Khajuraho colour illustrations text.

John Noble Southern & Western Rajasthan, Gujarat John, from England, lives in Spain and has written on 20 or so countries for Lonely Planet. He fi rst experienced India in the days of Rajiv Gandhi but has never written about it until now. Best on-the-road decision: to get up pre-dawn and take another safari at Sasan Gir – and come upon not just one but four young lions strolling casually back and forth through the bushes in the early morning light. A full 1% of Asia’s wild lion population.

Kevin Raub Bihar & Jharkhand, Odisha, Mumbai (Bombay) Kevin Raub grew up in Atlanta, USA and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone maga-zines. Over a decade of trips to India, he’s ogled the Taj Mahal, rejuvenated at Maharaja- palace spas in the Himalaya, tracked tigers in Madhya Pradesh and navigated Keralan backwaters, but what magnetically draws him back to the subcontinent every time is far more basic: the absolutely mind-blowing cuisine, which – knock on wood – has never made him sick. You can fi nd him at www.kevinraub.net or at 35,000 feet.

Contributing Authors David Lukas lives on the edge of Yosemite National Park where he studies and writes about the natural world. He has contributed environment chapters to about 28 Lonely Planet guides and is the author of the recent A Year of Watching Wildlife. David wrote the Elephants & Tigers: India’s Sanctuaries and The Landscape chapters for this edition.

Amelia Thomas is a writer and journalist working throughout India and the Middle East. Her four small children have travelled extensively throughout India and beyond, and particularly enjoy ma-sala dosas, mango lassis, and hurtling through the streets of Old Delhi in autorickshaws. Amelia wrote the Travel With Children chapter of this edition.

Read more about John at:lonelyplanet.com/members/ewoodrover

Mark Elliott Jammu & Kashmir (including Ladakh), Kolkata (Calcutta) Mark has been mak-ing forays to the subcontinent since a 1984 trip that lined his stomach for all eventualities. For this edition an eventful summer saw him dodging fl ash fl oods in Kargil, landslides in Ladakh, curfews in Srinagar and stone-throwing mobs around Kashmir. When not researching travel guides Mark lives a blissfully quiet suburban life with his beloved Belgian bride, Danielle, who found him at a Turk-men camel market.

Katja Gaskell Booking Trains, Yoga, Spas & Spiritual Pursuits, Volunteering, Scams, Women & Solo Travellers, Directory A–Z, Transport Sixteen years ago Katja arrived in India on a six week, ill-planned trip that saw her swelter in Rajasthan, get drenched by the monsoons in Goa and suff er the after-eff ects of a roadside prawn curry in Mumbai. And yet she still fell in love with the country and vowed to return. Today Katja calls Delhi home and regularly travels the country with her husband and two kids. Katja is also the author of Lonely Planet guides to China and Australia.

Trent Holden Andhra Pradesh, Andaman Islands On his last visit to Andhra Pradesh Trent made his fi lm debut as an extra in a Tollywood fi lm. A decade later he’s still waiting for a follow-up call (perhaps it’s time to let that dream go…), but in the meantime, any opportunity to head back there suits him fi ne. This is his fourth trip to India, a place he loves like no other. When not on the road researching and coauthoring for titles such as Nepal and Indonesia, Trent works as a freelance editor with Lonely Planet.

Abigail Hole Itineraries, Delhi, Kerala Abigail was fi rst bewitched by India around 15 years ago, and she’s returned with increasing regularity – three times in 2010 alone. This is the fourth time she has worked on Lonely Planet’s India guide. She cowrote the fi rst edition of Rajasthan, Delhi & Agra and has written about India for various newspapers and magazines, including Lonely Planet Magazine. This edition of India gave her the welcome opportunity of covering Kerala and Delhi, two of her favourite destinations. Abigail also wrote the Red Fort colour illustration text.

Kate James Tamil Nadu & Chennai Melbourne-born Kate grew up in Ooty, where her parents taught at an international school and travelled using the very fi rst edition of this guide. Journalism in Australia led Kate to an editing job at Lonely Planet and then into a freelance writing and editing career. She wrote the Orissa and West Bengal chapters of the previous edition of this guide, and is the author of Women of the Gobi (Pluto Press, 2006).

Amy Karafi n 20 Top Experiences, If You Like…, Month by Month, Goa, India Today, History Indian in several former lives, Amy headed straight to India after university for a four-month trip that would turn out to be karmically ordained. She spent the next few years alternating between New York and faraway lands until, fed up with the irony of being a travel editor in a Manhattan cubicle, she relinquished her MetroCard and her black skirts to make a living on the road. She has been freelancing semi-nomadically ever since, setting up shop in Bombay as much as possible. This is Amy’s fourth time coauthoring India.

Anirban Mahapatra South and North of Kolkata (in West Bengal & Darjeeling), Maharashtra, Karna-taka & Bengaluru For seven long years, Anirban ran a nifty travel scam out of a reporter’s cubicle in a Delhi newspaper offi ce. He’d sell outlandish story ideas to gullible editors, and then hare off across the Indian subcontinent in the name of intrepid journalism. When his bluff was fi nally called, he promptly changed his designation to travel writer, and thereby legitimised his trade. Anirban has regu-larly contributed to Lonely Planet guidebooks since 2007. When not travelling, he cools his heels in Kolkata.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Sarina Singh Coordinating Author, Colourful India, Welcome to India, Need to Know, Regions at a Glance, The Way of Life, Spiritual India, Delicious India, The Great Indian Ba-zaar, Sacred Architecture, The Arts After fi nishing a business degree in Melbourne, Sarina travelled to India where she completed a hotel corporate traineeship before working as a journalist. After fi ve years she returned to Australia and pursued post-graduate journalism qualifi cations before co-authoring Lonely Planet’s fi rst edition

of Rajasthan. She has worked on 30 Lonely Planet books, writes for other major international publica-tions and has a column in India’s Lonely Planet Magazine. Singh is also the author of two books – Polo in India and India: Essential Encounters. Her award-nominated documentary premiered at the Mel-bourne International Film Festival before screening in Australia and Europe. See www.sarinasingh.com.

Michael Benanav Trekking, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand Michael has been to North India four times and still hasn’t visited the Taj Mahal. He’d like to, but has been too busy migrating through Uttarakhand with a clan of nomadic water-buff alo herders, exploring remote Kashmiri valleys along the Line of Control, and fi nding spiritual enlightenment while riding public buses over the crazy mountain roads of Himachal Pradesh. Michael photographs, writes books and freelances for the New York Times, Geographical and other publications. His website is www.michaelbenanav.com.

Lindsay Brown Eastern Rajasthan, Haryana & Punjab After completing a PhD on evolutionary ge-netics and following a stint as a science editor, Lindsay started working for Lonely Planet. Formerly the publishing manager of outdoor activity guides at Lonely Planet, Lindsay returns to the subcontinent to trek, write and photograph whenever pos-sible. He has also contributed to Lonely Planet’s South India, Nepal, Bhutan, Rajas-than, Delhi & Agra and Pakistan & the Karakoram Highway guides, among others.

Stuart Butler Northeast Tribal States Stuart fi rst travelled to India in the 90s and he’s been back numerous times since. Exploring the northeast for this book gave him a totally new angle on the whole India experience. When not enduring the northeast’s pot-holed roads, Stuart has travelled from the deserts of Arabia to the beaches of the Carib-bean for Lonely Planet and various surf magazines. Stuart lives with his wife and baby son on southwest France’s beaches. His website is www.oceansurfpublications.co.uk.

Read more about Sarina at:lonelyplanet.com/members/sarinasingh

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98314th edition – Sep 2011ISBN 978 1 74179 780 0© Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs © as indicated 201110 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Read more about Stuart at:lonelyplanet.com/members/stuartbutlerOVER

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