l’oréal research, solar uv radiation and pollution - temis · l’oréal professionnel, matrix,...

24 January 2005

TEMIS Users Workshop 1

François Christiaens, François Christiaens, L’Oréal Recherche,ClichyL’Oréal Recherche,Clichy, France, France

L’Oréal Research,L’Oréal Research,Solar UV Radiation and pollutionSolar UV Radiation and pollution

24 January 2005


INTRODUCTIONL’Oréal, an overview in 2003

!! 100 years of expertise in cosmetics100 years of expertise in cosmetics

!! 17 global brands17 global brands

!! 14 billion euro consolidated sales14 billion euro consolidated sales

!! 480 million euro invested in R&D480 million euro invested in R&D

!! 50,500 employees50,500 employees

!! 15% share of the global cosmetics market15% share of the global cosmetics market

!! 3.9 billion units manufactured annually3.9 billion units manufactured annually

!! 130 products sold every second130 products sold every second

Global leader in the cosmetics industryPresent in more than 150 countriesNet profit before capital gains and losses and after minority interests: 1,229 M €Products:

Hair Care, Dyes, Shampoos…Skin Care, Sunscreens…Make-upDrugs (Dermatology)

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COSMETICS, UNIQUE EXPERTISEA brand portfolio that is unique in the world

A brand portfolio that is unique in the world

The group has also chosen to focus on a limited number of star brands, all of which have global sales : L’Oréal Professionnel, Matrix, Redken, L’Oréal Paris, Garnier, Maybelline, Softsheen.Carson, Lancôme, Biotherm, Helena Rubinstein, Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, Cacharel, Shu Uemura, Kiehl’s, La Roche Posay and Vichy.This brand concentration, or “non-dispersion”, is at the core of the group’s strategy. Of its 17 brands, 14 account for more than 93% of its global sales.

The group’s major global brands come from three regions, namely, Europe, the United States and Asia, enabling L’Oréal to provide consumers worldwide with a portfolio of brands of diverse cultural origins that satisfy all tastes, whatever the demand. For cultures and countries across the globe: Each culture has its personal care and presentation rituals, its make-up secrets, its vision of beauty… L’Oréal draws on this diversity to provide the best response to consumers’ expectations everywhere.For the face, body and hair: To offer a comprehensive response to consumers’aspirations, our products cover bodycare, facecare, haircare and perfumes.For women and men: While beauty is a world traditionally associated with women, L’Oréal’s care lines are increasingly devoted to the specific needs of men (Vichy, Biotherm, Lancôme, L’Oréal Paris).For all ages: Each age group has its beauty, desires and needs. L’Oréal’s formulas are adapted to the needs of aging skin and hair.

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RESEARCH, DRIVING GROWTH

More than 500 patents filed per yearMore than 500 patents filed per year

8 research centers in Europe, 3 in North America 8 research centers in Europe, 3 in North America and 3 in Asiaand 3 in Asia

3 evaluation centers in Europe, 4 in America and 3 evaluation centers in Europe, 4 in America and 3 in Asia3 in Asia

480480--millionmillion--euro R&D budgeteuro R&D budget

2,900 staff members2,900 staff members

1/3 of the R&D budget is earmarked for advanced research1/3 of the R&D budget is earmarked for advanced research

Numerous scientific papers in peerNumerous scientific papers in peer--reviewed journals reviewed journals and presentations in congressand presentations in congress

480-million-euro R&D budget

At L’Oréal, growth in the Research and Development budget always outpaces the increase in the group’s consolidated sales – the ultimate confirmation of L’Oréal’s belief in research.

Research at L’Oréal today is:Employees: 2,900Budget : 480 million euro, or 3% of the group’s consolidated sales. Average number of researchers involved in the creation of a product: 30. At L’Oréal, we like to say, “Thirty researchers from various disciplines nursed this product through to maturity.”

Steadily increasing innovation

L’Oréal files more patents than any other group in France. At the global level, it is one of the top groups filing patents in the cosmetics sector. It is difficult to put an exact figure on this, as patent law varies from one country to another. The high number of patents filed each year corresponds to a particularly active industrial protection policy introduced in 1995. This policy is also reflected in the number of “international extensions”, and, as such, L’Oréal today has a portfolio of 30,000 active patents worldwide.

L’Oréal has thus established a network of research and evaluation centers:Research Centers:The cosmetic and dermatology research centers are located in three continents: Europe (8), Asia (3) and North America (3 in the United States).

Evaluation Centers:L’Oréal has evaluation centers worldwide. Their role is to: - Observe the personal care habits of the women and men in their respective country. Which products do they use? How do they use them? These centers have bathrooms where men and women are observed preparing themselves using their own bathroom products, as if they were at home. An example of an observation: an active South Korean woman uses around 21 products when getting ready in the morning, whereas an active European woman uses 5 to 7.- Check that a product is attuned to the culture, climate and environment of the market where it is to be launched. For example, a mascara in Japan must, above all else, have an “elongating” effect, as Japanese eyelashes are short.

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Hair and skin occupy a special Hair and skin occupy a special placeplaceonon the surface of the human body, the surface of the human body, inindirectdirect contact with the environment.contact with the environment.

TheirTheir diversity and the diversity and the alterationsalterationstheythey may show are partly linked may show are partly linked totoclimateclimate and pollution.and pollution.

African skin

Chinese skin

European skin

GENERAL BACKGROUNDGENERAL BACKGROUND

This explains:The diversity of their properties according to places where people live.Their alterations in terms of structure, function, appearance

Today I won’t deal with pollution effects on skin and hair.

24 January 2005


Exposure to Exposure to the solarthe solar radiation can have radiation can have severesevereconsequences:consequences:

!! Skin: Skin: erythemaerythema, ageing, dryness, , ageing, dryness, immunodeficiency, allergies, pigmentation, immunodeficiency, allergies, pigmentation, wrinkles...wrinkles...

!! Hair: protein and lipid oxidation, with Hair: protein and lipid oxidation, with consequences on the cosmetic aspect and consequences on the cosmetic aspect and properties (properties (fragility).fragility).

The The UltraVioletUltraViolet waveband of the solar waveband of the solar spectrumspectrumisis involved in these alterationsinvolved in these alterations..

BACKGROUND FORBACKGROUND FORSOLAR UV RADIATIONSOLAR UV RADIATION

Erythema = sunburnPigmentation = tanningAnd skin cancers, which occupy the first rank in cancer rates

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"" Pollution has consequences on:Pollution has consequences on:!! the cosmetic properties of skin and hair (smoothness, the cosmetic properties of skin and hair (smoothness,

brightness, etc..)brightness, etc..)!! the natural defences of the skin by altering its antithe natural defences of the skin by altering its anti--

oxidative processes.oxidative processes.

"" Moreover, pollutants could enhance irritation and Moreover, pollutants could enhance irritation and allergy, as consequences.allergy, as consequences.

BACKGROUND FOR POLLUTIONBACKGROUND FOR POLLUTION

Our way of investigating effects of pollutants:We investigate which biological markers change, and by how much they change, when cells are exposed to normal and polluted conditions. This implies to know « what is the normal concentration of a given pollutant », especially in the lower tropospheric layer.

24 January 2005


UV UV irradiancesirradiances andand doses, bothdoses, both physicalphysical (UVB, UVA) (UVB, UVA) andandbiologicallybiologically--weigthed (erythemal)weigthed (erythemal)

Levels of pollutants concentrationsLevels of pollutants concentrations

KindKind ofof data:data:

-- ClimatologiesClimatologies-- GlobalGlobal andand local local maxima and averagesmaxima and averages-- TimeTime seriesseries atat differentdifferent locationslocations-- ForecastsForecasts

INFORMATION NEEDSINFORMATION NEEDS

UV radiation data mean irradiance and doses

24 January 2005


TooToo few (or geographically missing) collecting few (or geographically missing) collecting sitessitesworlwideworlwide

Limited availability of data over timeLimited availability of data over time

Data come from different instruments, which are Data come from different instruments, which are calibrated using different standards and runned calibrated using different standards and runned using different procedures.using different procedures.## intercomparisons and crossintercomparisons and cross--checks are checks are requiredrequired

NoNo data on UVAdata on UVA radiation availableradiation available

LIMITATIONS OF EXISTING INFORMATIONLIMITATIONS OF EXISTING INFORMATION

Data are obtained by mean of spectroradiometers and integrating radiometers

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«« PhysicalPhysical » » requirementsrequirements::-- SeaSea levellevel-- Area of interest:Area of interest: Global, but focused on populated areasGlobal, but focused on populated areas-- SpatialSpatial resolution: 1 by 1 degreeresolution: 1 by 1 degree-- TimeTime period: climatologyperiod: climatology-- MaxMax. time delay: means for every ten days or less/more often depend. time delay: means for every ten days or less/more often depending ing onon

thethe variation in time of the product (a significant variation is 20variation in time of the product (a significant variation is 20 %)%)-- ((WhenWhen applicable: Spectral applicable: Spectral stepstep: 1 nm): 1 nm)-- AccuracyAccuracy: better than : better than 5%5%

REQUIREMENTSREQUIREMENTS

Handling of data by the endHandling of data by the end--useruser-- Interactive maps and ASCII formatInteractive maps and ASCII format-- Delivery method: webDelivery method: web--page, with a userpage, with a user--friendly interface for a consumerfriendly interface for a consumer

Spatial grid: 100 kms if population density < 100 inhabitants / km²; 10 km otherwiseExclusive rights because we need to take the competitive lead on this consumer service

24 January 2005


"" SpecificationsSpecifications definitiondefinition"" PeriodicalPeriodical followfollow--upup (includes attending to (includes attending to

meetingsmeetings))"" FeedFeed--back:back:

!! ImprovementImprovement proposalsproposals!! RelatedRelated linkslinks

-- Scientific (medical) guarantee, validation and Scientific (medical) guarantee, validation and expertiseexpertise

INVOLVEMENTINVOLVEMENT

Links: Getty Thesaurus of Geographic Names, UV climatology models, help

24 January 2005


ClearClear--skysky UV index, global UV index, global andand EuropeEurope

!! TodayToday andand 44--days days forecastforecast basedbasedon SCIAMACHY on SCIAMACHY datadata

!! Climatologies Climatologies basedbased on GOME on GOME data, data, includingincluding monthlymonthly averagesaveragesandand yearlyyearly extremaextrema

PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (1/3)PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (1/3)

24 January 2005


ErythemalErythemal UV doses:UV doses:!! IndividualIndividual dayday data for data for 20042004(SCIAMACHY(SCIAMACHY))

!! Climatologies, 1995Climatologies, 1995--2003, 2003, fromfromGOMEGOME datadata

PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (2/3)PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (2/3)

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OnOn--line helpline help

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is.nlPRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (3/3)PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (3/3)

About pollution products, products received can be accessed from the TEMIS web site.

24 January 2005


ComparisonsComparisons withwith publishedpublished modelsmodels andand local groundlocal groundmeasuresmeasures

EaseEase ofof use use of dataof data

Care of our specificationsCare of our specifications

Quality of assistanceQuality of assistance / answers to our questions:/ answers to our questions:-- Relevance of answersRelevance of answers-- fullfull answeranswer-- Delay before getting the answerDelay before getting the answer

ASSESSMENTASSESSMENT

Models published by: Diffey, Lubin, Green, Forster, Engelsen(EDUCE), Booth (Biospherical)Results available from publications by J. Frederick, Gies, DIN, Sayre, Seckmeyer, Parisi… and from L’Oréal measures

24 January 2005


Improve the relevance of indoor Improve the relevance of indoor tests:tests:

!! FineFine--tune the doses delivered tune the doses delivered in studies made in studies made in:in:

•• our laboratories,our laboratories,•• subsub--contractors contractors labslabs,,•• scientificscientific collaboration labs.collaboration labs.

!! Therefore, provideTherefore, provide cosmetic products cosmetic products customised customised toto consumer needs, worldwideconsumer needs, worldwide

!! (Mimic(Mimic actual UV spectra in solar actual UV spectra in solar simulators)simulators)

BENEFITS FOR L’ORÉAL (1/2)BENEFITS FOR L’ORÉAL (1/2)

Expose with adapted doses for tests such as photogenotoxicity, photoallergy, accelerated photoageing, pigmentation… For example, a dose of 15 J.cm-2 can be considered as an actual received dose; in contrast, 150 J.cm-2 corresponds to the maximum dose that may be received at ground level with clear sky conditions and it is irrelevant to expose cells to higher dosesWe actively participate to inter-professional institutions, which publish norms. As we are experts in UV, we propose that tests include the enhancements we get from the most reliable data. As a consequence, even our competitors’ products get better since they have to follow the norms.

24 January 2005


Help our scientific Help our scientific communication tcommunication to make o make everybody understand the benefits of UV everybody understand the benefits of UV photoprotectionphotoprotection::

!! HereHere is what your lovely, healthy skin looks like when is what your lovely, healthy skin looks like when not exposed not exposed ((waowwaow))

!! Here are the UV doses you may receive Here are the UV doses you may receive (ouch)(ouch)

!! Here is the biological damage when exposed to these Here is the biological damage when exposed to these doses doses ((arghargh))

!! When you apply a right product, your skin (hairs) is When you apply a right product, your skin (hairs) is protected protected (phew)(phew)

BENEFITS FOR L’ORÉAL (2/2)BENEFITS FOR L’ORÉAL (2/2)

Always enhance L’Oréal’s image, worlwideAlways enhance L’Oréal’s image, worlwide-- Providing services that rely on highProviding services that rely on high--technology worktechnology work

24 January 2005


Complementary productsComplementary products-- Interactive mapsInteractive maps-- UVUV--index and UV doses results after may 2003 (i.e. based on SCIAMACindex and UV doses results after may 2003 (i.e. based on SCIAMACHY):HY):

Yearly averages and extrema, monthly averages and climatologieYearly averages and extrema, monthly averages and climatologies, both for s, both for global and areas of interestglobal and areas of interest

EXPECTATIONS FROM PROMOTEEXPECTATIONS FROM PROMOTE

UVA dataUVA dataDelays for the availability of time seriesDelays for the availability of time seriesCan these improvements be implemented?Can these improvements be implemented?

-- High spatial resolution: 10 x 10 kmHigh spatial resolution: 10 x 10 km-- Spectral irradiance for the waveband 280Spectral irradiance for the waveband 280--1100 nm1100 nm-- Can the data correspond to the 0Can the data correspond to the 0--2 m altitude range above the ground 2 m altitude range above the ground level, instead of the whole troposhere?level, instead of the whole troposhere?

Monitoring of other tropospheric pollutantsMonitoring of other tropospheric pollutants-- Aerosols: CO…Aerosols: CO…-- Heavy metals and aromatic hydrocarbonsHeavy metals and aromatic hydrocarbons-- Dusts…Dusts…

24 January 2005


L’Oréal and ESA/KNMI:L’Oréal and ESA/KNMI:

A stateA state--ofof--thethe--art scientific collaboration…art scientific collaboration…

…because you’re worth it…because you’re worth it!!

CONCLUSIONCONCLUSION

24 January 2005


Thank you for your attentionThank you for your attention

l’oréal research, solar uv radiation and pollution - temis · l’oréal professionnel, matrix,...

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