LOS ANGELES HERALD: WEDNESDAY MORNING, SEPTEMBER 12, 1906.

PWncs zMHck-UosWHO MAKES THE STYLES FOR THE FEMININE WORLD?

Obtained Any and Everywhere and Worked Out by ArtistesSterling itHilgIn Karma* City Stnr.

'Famous Paris Dressmaker Replies: "The Streets of Paris"— ldeas Are

LOS ANGELES HERALDnr Tim nniiAi.n compan*

THANK O. FI!«M.AYBOW......»•»••'«•»«HOIIT,M.TOST RriHorlsl M«n«sr*rm. n. LAVEHTY Bw»l»ie«» M«a««*r

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THE HERALD IN SAN FRANCISCOAND OAKLAND—Los An*«les nndSouthern CallfornU visitors to SanFrancisco and Onklnnd will find The

Herald on sale at the news 'finds intho San Frsnclsco Ferry building nn<lon the streets In Oakland by Wheatley

and by Amos News Co.

Population of Los Angeles, 251,463

"The public of elegant women alwaysdecides, and ft good house never ex«nggerates. Short sleeves are for thoyoung. They also make a woman lookyoung. But, In general, we cannot Im-pose o thing n woman willnot have."

"And In conflicts of new modes?""I repoat the customers will com-

pare.""Then It Is the etistomers who really

make the new styles?""No," laughed madnme, "It is the

temperature. When sleeves nre verylong and big, they lirenot prnotlcnl forwinter, because of the difficulty ofpull-ing jacquettes and coats over them."

"But short sleeves ought to bo coldIn winter," Iobjected.

"Thinkhow well they go with muffs,"laughed madame. '

"We had a customer who dressed de-llclouoly and did us much credit, buton whom low sleeves went ill—shelooked like a weeping willow. So wemade a little short nnd high sleeve forher and everybody liked It. Now theyare coining down again nnd short

—If

we can mnke them accepted In winter.""But suppose the other houses nre

against your new mode?" 1asked fora last time.

"Madame," Isaid, "two years agoSleeves swelled below, Suddenly— notgradually—they mounted, swelling attho shoulders. Who did that?" .

Short Sleeve* In Winter

pose the other Rrr.-it hou»e« give some-thing Just the contrary?" '

"They won't.'' snid madame."Then the mode is in »ome occult

way endemic around the Rue Koynle?""No, the mode Is not general. Bach

house makes its mode."

Hear the owl cars?

Stensland will come home In a boat.That makes two of "em he's In.

Still, one doesn't have to get "fullas an owl" to ride on an owl car.

But there Is one thing on which every

delegate is predetermined. That Is,

to use his best efforts to secure aticket and a platform calculated to

Insure victory at the polls next Novem-ber. And The Herald indorses that

determination with, "Amen; so mote

it be."

The uncertainty about the proceed-ings today is the best evidence thatthere Is no supremo boss at tho Demo-cratic convention, nor any minorbouses, after the manner of the Repub-lican convention at Santa Cruz. Thereare no collars and nobody to placethem or wear them. Tho conventionIs of the old type of Democratic gath-erings, wherein every delegate Isa freemoral agent, tolerating no boss andrecognizing no higher authority thanhis conscience.

Concerning the platform, itIs knownthat every plank willbe soundly Demo-

cratic. Further than that we shallhavo to await the work of the com-mittee on resolutions and the adoptionthereof by the convention.

Theodore C Hell .Is one of theablest and most popular young Demo-crats In the state. In regard to

the rest of the ticket, It may be saidgenerally that there are strong namesavailable for every position, but It Is

Idle nt this time to speculate upon\u25a0elections.

Nothing definite Is known, at thiswriting, concerning the name thatshall head the ticket. Theodore C. HellIs recognized generally as the probablechoice for the gubernatorial nomina-tion, but there are other excellentnames available for the honor, andthe strongest will be selected.

An Ideal ticket with a platform tomatch will crown today's work of theDemocratic convention. That resultIs assured by the manifest determina-tion of the delegftten, not by prear-rftngement.

THE CONVENTION

With a $l.tax rate, even the wealthy

•will have no excuse for dodging theirdues.

The new tax rate willbe $1. Almostlike contributing to the campaign fund.

But In the face of nil its misfortunesSan Francisco shows the grit that hasalways distinguished California com-munities In times of emergency. Thecity Is courageously endeavoring to

rise from Its ashes in the face of dis-couragements that eeem almost in-surmountable. With nearlly half Itspopulation gone, and with the greaterpart of Its former business area a massof debris, It is struggling heroicallyto regain its feet and ultimately to be-come a greater city than it was be-fore the calamity.

And so another heavy load will beaddorl to the burden of distress underwhich Ban Francisco Is struggling. Wellmny tho stricken city exclaim, in thewords of Job, "Oh. that my grief werethoroughly weighed, and my calamity

laid In the balances together; for nowit would be heavier than the sands ofthe sea"

As there are many derelict com-panies betides those of Oermany, inother foreign countries as well as inthe United States, the stack of law-

suits to be Instituted certainly willreach monumental proportions. Thesuit* against foreign companies will

be brought both In the United Statescourt at Snn Francisco and In thehome cltlfd of Uie foreign weighers.

Alluring European tours for lawyers,at the expense of San Francisco policyholders. In addition to the outpour ofcash in fees, will be features of thounexampled litigation.

A considerable percentage of SunFrancisco's recent loss In populationIs likely to be mnde good by an Inva-sion of lawyers. A dispatch from thatcity says: "Not less than 20,000 suitsngalnat welshing German fire Insurancecompanies will be brought in the nextfew months to secure payment ofpolicies for which liability is denied;litigation unparalleled In magnitude inthis line l« about to begin."

TROUBLE AND GRIT

That Hon. Theodore C. Bell will beselected by the Democratic conventiontoday seems certain. He will sound theknell of Republican supremacy In Cali-fornia.

Favorite invitation in Los Angelesnow: "Come take a ride in our owlcars."

The only Havana that ItIs not wrong

to attack Is the two-bits kind that goesup in smoke.

The S. P. seems to havo been so busymaking medicine in politics that Itcould spare no doctors to care for theinjured in Its coast line wreck.

Warship sent to Cuba? Now willCuba remember, and be good?

Yale men whose class numbers runback anywhere in the sixties willrecallthe fine Bquare church tower on Chapelstreet in whose irregular ashler werefigured plainly and neatly, at regular

spaces, every ace In the pack—

nave one.Tradition had It. that the architect per-

petrating this Irreverent joke fell fromthe scaffolding when on a visit of In-spection, and the trefoil never was set.The other aces were broken out withcome difficultya number of years ago.—Boston Post.

A good deal of indignation, real orsimulated, In worked up in the higher

circles of Pennsylvania politics over acollection of- portrait bußts displayedupon the bronze doors of the new statehouse at Harrlsburg. ArchitecturalJokes of this sort are of frequent, oc-currence. A good deal of chiseling hadto be done upon the facade of ourpublic library a few years after thecompletion of the building to obliteratethe acrostic spelling the names of itsarchitects up and down the catalogue

of great men of allages there inscribed.And today, deftly worked inamong thedecorative carving on one of the finebusiness blocks In Boston, may be dis-covered the emblem of the pawnbroker,the triple balls, a sly reference by theartist designer to the source of thefortune, of the owner.

QUEER ARCHITECTURAL JOKES

And you can also ride home on the

owl cars every morning. They havecome to stay.

Mr.Langdon may be a very estimableyoung chap, but the stamp of Hearst

on him is as fatal as the brand of Cain.

A New York man was arrested forsinging ragtime in a sewer. He shouldhave had a medal for his recognitionof correlations.

Poor men take notice: The Los An-

geles county tax levy is the lowest inits history now. Only $1. Good placeto liveinis Los Angeles.

But that const line wreck won't be amarker to the smashup the RepublicanS. P. machine will get in November.That will be a wreck.

Martial law has been declared insev-eral Cuban provinces. Palma seems tohave struck anything but Palma days

during his incumbency.

Tha striking carpenters remind one ofa certain king of France, wno, whenwith his valiant men he marched up

the hill,he straightway marched downagain.

WHEN YOU GIVE AWAY AN AUTOSenator Knox, In his picturesque

mansion at Valley Forge, waß recently

asked what he thought of the move-ment in France toward the simplifica-tion of legal French— the simplificationof the wording of wills, deeds, mort-gages, etc."I think that this movement Is a

wise one,** said the Benator. "I thinkthat In English, too, many documentswould be better forsimplification. Muchof our legal phraseology Is uselesslyprolix and redundant. Why, if youwant to deed a man an automobile,instead of writing simply, 'I give youthis automobile," It Is necessary towrite something like this:"

'I give you all and singular, myestate and interest, right, title andclaim, the advantage of and in thatautomobile, with all its sixty-horse-power engines, cylinders, tonneau,tires, cushions, direct drive, windinggear transmission, three speeds and re-verse and all rights and advantagestherein, with full power to drive, speed,race or rent the same automobile, orgive the same away, with or withoutits said engines, cylinders, tires,cushions, Blidlng-gear transmission,anything heretofore or hereinafter, orIn any other deed or deeds, instrumentor instruments, of what kind or na-ture soever to the contrary in anywisenotwithstanding.'

"The next lime the journeymen car-

penters won't saw oft the scantling

between themselves and the buildingonwhich they are working. The drop istoo great.

"Pop, what's a pessimist?""A pessimist, my son, is a person

who Is anxious for everything andeverybody to go wrong so he can say,'I told you so.'

""And what is an optimist?""An optimist is a man who, when

things are going his way. is alwaystelling other people not to worry."

Chief Auble is referred to the law

as to what constitutes a cafe mealwhen one doesn't want one, but needsIt with a drink on Sundays. Let himthpw on »hat awhile.

"The material in them never costs 40cents a yard! Good English cloth fortailor gowns must cost $1.40 per yardand oftenest costs a great deal more.As to their lining, you may say It Isnothing. Ab to fit, the leaßt said thebetter. They travesty our model. But,as they exuet from one-third to one-half of the price In advance, the cus-tomer is helpless. Tenez, Iwill tellyou how Irecently made a nice girl apresent

—without It costing me any-

thing but an amusing quarter of anhour!

"AsIpassed In front o f one of these

"Madame, you say 'we' As stylescannot be kept secret long, what Isthere to prevent the sensationally cheapprice Paris establishments from turn-Ing-out pretty much the same thing asyou others of the rue Royale?"

"They do, they do!" laughed ma-dame. "They send their wives anddaughters and their cousins and theiraunts to buy models from us. Thenthey copy them."

"As low as $20?" Isaid.Tricks of the Trade

All Models DoNot "Take""There is one thing Icould never

understand,'" Isaid. "You are makingup your autumn models

—In secrecy,

naturally. The other establishments of

the rue Royale und the rue de la Palxare doing the same. Suppose you Inno-vate long sleeves and the other housesstick to short sleeves? Who has tochange to follow the other?"

There must be some secret here, formadame did not answer the questldndirectly.

"We make up fifty models," she said,"yet perhaps only ten of them will

'take.' There comes to be a 'run' onthem. And their essential ideas— notmere details— come to be used over andover again. We ourselves go out Intothe world continually—to the races, thetheaters and so on. Our cutters do the

same. We get Inspirations everywhere—because you must not think that we

depend upon our sewing girls for styles.Ionly mentioned them to illustrate anIdea. Thus the true mode changesslowly—inaParisian evolution. Shouldyou lock a dozen of us up In separaterooms we would all, probably, producevery much the same styles forautumn."

"Perhaiis they peddle your ideas aswell?" Isuggested.

"It is a thing that cannot be helped.Que voulox-vous? What will you?"

laughed madame. "Such leaks help tofixstyles, doubtless."

"They fix up for themselves costumesout of chiffons and remnants. It is vmistake to watch them strolling Intherue Royale at the lunch hour—astourist gentlemen no often do. Nor arethut at their best at the sortie In theevening— when they are tired and de-

pressed. You must see them arriving Inthe morning! They come In deliciouslittle blouses— of their fancy. Theirskirt hungs perfectly. Their hair Is apoem. Tholr hats muke styles!"

"You are making up models, now,

for autumn and winter, madame," Isaid. "I cannot Imagine how a trot-

tin's summer blouse, however tempting-ly njouree In front of originally-tintedribbons, is to help you out."

"They give ideas—ldon't say more.We take an idea and make it ours, ofcourse. A sleeve inspiration is a sleevoInspiration, no matter In what material.When nn idea is directly traceable toone of the girls we pay her for It.Often girls come to us from the outsidewith a sleeve Idea or a collar idea to

sell us; and Ihave no doubt that ourown girls nt times go ;eddllng theirldens to other houses."

How Styles Originate

"Paris sewing girls originate thostyles?"

"In Berlin, monsieur, you find thotrottln very clean nnd neat. In Parlfshe Is dirty, but her hair Is beautifully

done. We hnve girls who mnke themLouis XV nnd Louis XVIcoiffures.

PAHI9, Aug. 13.—"Who makes thostyles?'Inaked trM question of a notable

woman, the hend of the famous Kleinentabllshment of the. rue Itoyale. Ma-dame Klein in young, round, rosy, verypretty— and stylish beyond words. Sheprobably changes her frock seven timesa day. Indeed, 1 sometimes think thatthe true object of the great establish-ment Is to supply inndHine with newthings. Hut It Is not—it makes styles.

"Who makes the styles?" repeatedmadame. "Why, Ianswer you: Thestreets of Paris! Everyone and no one.The styles arc an Inspiration, an un-conscloun collaboration. One of my

little work girls mine In this morningwearing ti very omnll hat almost hid-den under atl enormous Scotch plaidiribbon. Itwas original and delightful."

"That was a bad smashup BillyChaffer and Ms fiance had when theautomobile ran away with them,wasn't It?"

"Yes; even the engagement wasbroken."

"Of course you know what you aregoing to give, madame," Isaid, com-ing buck to the old subject. "But sup-

"Oh, no! Nothing of the kind. Theballooning effect will be obtained onlyby the quantity of material. Also

—I

may mention— we will try to lengthenthese littlepaletots, giving them a newcut, to make the same silhouette thatwomen had In them this summer, onljmore comfortable. And— garnlr beau-ooup! Trimmed lots!— that is thewatchword, monsieur! It will not bea mode entirely natural to the Par-isienne of the day, but will please bynovelty. You can call It a reminis-cence of 1860

—corrected by modern

taste."

"Hoops?" Iinquired.

"Exactly," replied madame, pleasedwith my quick conception. "And, as Ihave said, skirts are to be trimmed ac-cordingly. As to ampleur, they willhave almost as much front and behindas at the sides, and vice versa. Thewoman will be round. You may, really,call it a crinoline disguise."

The Woman Will Be Round

"With a long basque you cannot trimthe skirt much," Isaid intelligently.

"Apart from the grande jaquette,which is always current and of whichIt is useless to speak, Iwill put thebaque first in imoprtance

—but It will

be a short basque. A long basque, intruth, takes all the chic out of a fancytailor gown. A woman who wants aserious costume, strictly tailor-made,may have a long basque

—because it

makes a costume by Itself. It is thesame with the grande jaquette, whichis economical and dresses many womenwell. A woman who haß a grandeJaquette costume for the winter has amanteau In It. But for all that Is fancytailor

—the vast majority, today

—wo-

must give the basque short."

"Basque, madame," Ifound myselfsaying when Irecovered consciousness,"but have they not had basque galorevery recently?"

"To go with the silhouette of thisnew mode, we must give short sleeves.But can we get them accepted? Canwe impose them on customers? Oth-erwise we must find a silhouette of asleeve that willgive the effect of beingshort, yet is not short. For example,superposed volants." Here, Iconfess,Ilost track for a moment.

"Sleeves?"

"Trimmed how?""For example, with velvet cut In

tresses. Also we are taking up theMedlcls collar."

"Next?" Isaid."Basques,' 1 said madame. "Basques

and ballooned skirts trimmed (garnie)almost to the top."

"We are coming back to tho shortwaist," she said. "But It must be aparticular short waist, difficult to ex-plain. Tenez! The gown must be soformed that you willsee a long walstedwoman underneath it. Of course, It isdone by the cut. Arrivingat a certainpclnt, itquits the waist."

As she seemed perfectly unhesitatingand frank In her answer, Ibelieve shegave me the real tip. Ifyou, In turn,

can make anything out of it,here itis:

"Madame," I said, "what are to bethe new autumn styles?"

Some Autumn Tips

"That wns the end of the contro-versy," • said Miidnme Klein. "Theyguvojher the coat for $15*-Freneh lawbeing very strict upon tha Bubject.They saw that they wero fairly caughtfor once."

""All right,' she Enid nt last. 'I'll

now give you live minutes, just, tohand me down thut coat Inreturn formy $15. Otherwise Iwillreturn with npollcemnn and charge you with expos-ing goods with marked prices and re-fusing to sell them.'

"Of course, they would not let herhave It. It was « model discolored bythe nun; It would not fither; she oughtnot to want It. When she Insisted theygrew angry—and filiallyrefused to takeher order.

"'Certainly, mademoiselle, Iwilltake

your measure. The coat will be readyfor trip try-on next Tuesday.'

'Hut no,' she suld, 'Iwant that coatself!'

"And you mnde It a present?""I did, 1 did," chirped madame.

"That very evening Isaid to this nicefflrl, who Id a governess nnd not rich,'Go to thitt. estHbllshment nnd buy thateont!' Hhe understood, monsieur." 'Hero' Is $15 for that coat,' she saidto the salesman.

concerns," mildmadnmp, "Iwas struckdumb by the sight of a fine autumncoat of most stylish lck>a find cvt

—and

nindn of mngnl(lcont Kngllsh material.We of the metier, monsieur, cannot bedeceived. That cont had rout, to mnko,every bit of $50

—nnd there It was

marked retail their $15 model!"

Animal Town

In the light of our warships' recordsin Cuban waters, it would seem thatsending one to Havana is ampinenough in itself to insure the pacifica-tion of that island forthwith.

The new tax levy for the county willbe only $3—the lowest since 1891, whenit was placed at the same figure. Thisis -.he best evidence It has to offer ottiie wonderful prosperity of the county.

Walter Wellman, who set out to seekthe chilly pole, will spend the winterinParis Instead. Ifho wanted a warmplace In contrast with the icy region

he started for, why didn't he go all theway?

The least a railroad can humanely do,when It does have a wreck and injureneardly a hundred passengers, Is toprovide prompt medical succor and allthe attentions desired by its victims.But the S. P. seems not to be aware ofthis.

—W. H. C.

Than was my wont. Came homeOn an owl car!

No more the rattling cab,No auto bill!

Owl cars are it for me!Run at my will.

Me for the gladsome night—'Twelve Is no bar.

Glorious the moon that sawOur first owl car!

Ripping on thro' tho dark,Speeding we went;

Oh. It was bully fine!And such content!

Never, no moro jay townGives folks a jar;

We are a city now—

See that owl car?

The Owl CarsNo more my weary feet

Walk Irksome ways;No more Iwunder forth'

Ere break o1o1 days.Past are my troublous hike:

Alldone, Itrow,—

IIcan ride home at night

—Owl cars run now!

Time was when weariljIplodded home

If past the midnight hourIchanced to roam.

Last night, Istayed as late-Later, by far.

Question of the hour when Atlantic-City gets women police: "Sergeant, ismy helmet on straight?"

Teddy might do some real good Ithe'd reform tho college yells.

No, best beloved, it is no crimepoaching eggs, even If poaching seals is.

A man's candy bill shows his statusIn the matrimonial market.

The thief who stole an electric fanfrom a church In St. Louis ought to ar-range to take it with him when hedies.

Lemon— The kind you hear over tho'phone, of course! . \u25a0\u25a0 \u25a0

Orange— What Is this phonetic talk,anyhow?

"Does anyone read good verse?" asksa contemporary. Yes— the proofreader.

We 11 probably have a department oforthography In the cabinet next. Wenominate Brander Matthews for firstsecretary.

Popular song of Democracy to thestate of California: "We've got aPhelan for you!"

Most fun depends on who shares it.

Who Dug the Grave?Mrs.Itickle died last week. Had beenpoorly a long time. Rev. Samuel Um-stot preached her funeral at the house.

B. W. Smith made the coffin.—Keyser(VV. Va.) Mountain Echo.

Every girl Is surprised at a kiss, evenwhen she drags it out of a man.

That new spelling In the Congres-sional Record will mako it still harderto know what congressmen arc talkingabout.

Pepper—Idon't know, but one ?>lllsoon bo "ex."

Some New Yorksociety girlsarc goingon the operatic stage to show theircourage. That's a new name for 'em.

Palm— What are Governor Purdee'sinitials?

After your best girl looks daggers atyou, no wonder you'ro cut up.

Philadelphia says a girl Is younguntil she's 40. The slowness of Phila-delphia seems to affect oven the processof growing old.

High Jinks In Pea Ridge SocietyMrs.Pod Rußgles, who lives down onPea Ridge, has become quite a sociallioness, she gavo a sassafras tea andpigs' feat luncheon last night to theladles of the Jcaokim society, and Itwas quite a swell affair. She wore her

tailor-made suit and benecia diamondearbobs, and presided with tho gracoof a ciueen. These Pea Ridge socialfunctions are becoming much talkednbout In neighboring towns.—Edgefleld(S. C.) Chronicle.

Somo men know what they want;some men get what they want, andseme, men have "something just asgood" thrust upon them.

According to a news dispatch, n Ja-maica man was "stubbed In a lonelyspot." In the case of most men thiswould be where the conscience la sup-posed to be located.

Thus far, at least, the worst congo-quences of the president's spelling orderare the Jokes that have been madeabout It.

t the, o mlte,Theodor,We sing this him of praz;2 the our grafful hAtts wll tm« >Thru never ending das.For thou hast rakd tip plla of nuilfUntil tho kuntry rekdjAnd thou rmst helpt us pach the holesThru which our muny Ickd.And best of al-tho we al noThou host dun al thin** wel—Tha gratest of thy nobl worksWn» tcchlnp; us to uppll—

lIOWAHD H. KRUEOKR.

The Democrats of Los Angeles county

ure prepared to give the Republicanmachine the stlffest fight it evertackled. It Is up to the non-partisansto follow cult.

Not only in this city but in every'

other city, town and hamlet In thecounty, and in the rural districts aswell, should the non-partisan move-ment be pushed. Instead of the namesof 250 avowed backers of the move-ment In Los Angeles there ought to beat least ten times that number, and acorresponding number in all other sec-tions of the county. And The Heraldfeels confident that such substantialbucking might be lined up by heroic-effort.

As an evidence of the work that mustb«> done it is necessary only to callattention to the preponderance of theRepublican partisan vote In Los An-geles county in former elections. Inorder to overcome the large Republicanplurality it will be r.ecessury for allopponents of machine methods inpoli-tics, and all opponents of SouthernPacific dominance in county affairs, tolake off their coats, rollup their sleevesand pitch Into the campaign witha de-termination to win or perish1 in theattempt.

It will be no child's play to defeat themachine ticket, turned out at Venice,even by a strenuous effort of non-par-

tisans 'in unison with the Democraticparty. Los Angeles county Is pressed

so tightly in the vise of the Republicanmachine, managed by political .en-gineers of the railway companies, thatIt willtake a mighty long pull, strongpull and pullall together to release themachine grip.

There is little more than a week,therefore, in which to shape the non-partisan movement for effective par-ticipation in framing a joint county

ticket tc pit against the machine-madeoutput of the Republican convention.All there is to show for non-partisan

effort thus far, as appears to the pub-lic, is a lifct of about .250 names ofcitizens who are credited with having'signified their Indorsement of the

movement and who will work for itssuccess."

The time fixed for holding the Demo-crutic county convention is September20

—Thursday of next week. Whatever

la done by the non-partisans concern-Ing a county ticket should be done priorto the 2 -rnocratlc convention. The ulti-mate success of the movement depends,o.' course, on the nomination of suchnon-partisan candidates as may beapproved by the Democrats.

At last the Los Angeles county non-partisan movement has taken tangibleshape.. A headquarters suitable for themanagement of a campaign has beensecured and a corps of workers ispromised for methodical effort. It isannounced that an executive committeeand a finance committee willbe In-

stalled at once. A list of 200 or 300names of citizens who espoused the

cause of the movement has been-pub-lished.

NON-PARTISAN MOVEMENT

Inthe east one may be abachelor andIn virtue thereof enjoy the hospitalityof a bachelor's married friends In-definitely, but the moment after thebachelor commits the indiscretion ofmarriage the Nemesis of tennis andbridge parties overtakes him with thosame ruthlessness with which he preyedfor entertainment on those who hadmarried before him. The moral of theeast for young men with economicalvlows is— don't marry.

—Singapore

Straits Budget.

WEBTERN FOLLIES INTHE EAST

Having started an agitation for owlcars, carried It on for weeks, broughtIt to a successful conclusion and actu-ally seen the owl cars running, whenall other efforts to secure them failedignomlnlously,The Herald may be par-doned for Indulging now in a slightfeeling of satisfaction and pride.Especially does it crave recognition

as "the paper that does things"—eventhings that other sheets fall in carry-Ing out.

It was too much to hope that theDemocrats would carry Maine, but therun they c*ve the RepuMlcans andthe huge cut In the Republican major-ity carry good signs for the congres-sional canvass this fall and brilliantprospects for 1908.

The real wreck on the Southern Pa-cific, unfortunately for the fake col-llson at Agricultural park, came onthe same day, and thus proved what vtame affair a made-to-order smashupis Incontrast to the real thing.

Young Teddy Roosevelt says he en-joyed the dans-Nelson slugging match;that it was a "bullyscrap." The youngImp certainly takes after his sportingdad. But couldn't his tastes have beentrained toward a little decenter sortthan prize righting?

Every Democrat will rejoice at thevigorous manner in which the stateconvention la utterly repudiating WillieAWo-Ran-dolph Hearst. His nativestate knows this colossal fourflusherand takes great pleasure inturninghimdown good and hard.

The nasty riots caused by attacks onnon-union street railway men In SanFrancisco only serve to emphasize thedanger existing In complete control ofv city by unionists, especially when thecity government they Institute is rot-ten to tbe core. r

That Theodore C. Bell will be namedby the Democrats today Is practicallyassured. He will lie a wonderfullystrong candidate, clean, fearless andfree alike of railroad affiliations andilearnt contaminations. He will be asplendid choice.

Before the fire wages were higherthan In any othe<- commercial city Inthe world, and livingwas cheaper thanin any other large city In the United•States. It was the paradise of labor,and yet the city was prosperous. Reo«ognlzing that fact, tha BuildingTradescouncil made a public pledge thutwages In the building trades mliohMnot be Increased. Ho far as we know,that pledge nt11. e.tands, and stands un-redeemed. The Building Trades coun-cil. If we have correctly kept the runof Its action, stands committed to thewage scale us It existed before the tiro,und many, and perhaps most of Itscomponent unions, stand officially com-mitted to a higher scale. Who Is au-thorised to speak for the unions? Idanybody so authorized? What asHiir-unce has a contractor or owner thutafter he hue started a building, to cost$100,000, ther« willnot be a rise In ma-terials and labor,.which will make Itcost $160,000 or more? Those thingsmust be nettled before permanentbuilding will begin on any Importantfecale, and bo settled that there can beno misunderstanding. Of course, laborIsnot the only factor In the rlue, but itIs the most important, for all material,except the natural products of thoearth, Is labor. There are those Incon-trol of materials, however, who areseeking to unduly profit at our expense,and they also must understand thattheir price* willnot long be paid.

The class A buildings already con-structed represent, as left by the fire,investments so large that they willprobably be restored as soon as pos-sible, whatever the cost. Very likelynow and then a venturesome t>ersonn-ay start new work of that kind. Thomajorityof owners willnot do so. Theywill lease their land or put up shacks.Xo owner can figure out a profit Inrenting buildings constructed at pres-ent cost, and until they can there willbe very little building. A day or twoago we gave an instance where certainstone work had originally cost inround numbers $15,000, but for re-placing it the lowest offer was, inround numbers, $43,000. That was avery extreme case and seems hardlycredible, but we had the owner of theproperty for authority. Here is a defi-nite case which any one can verify..The original cost of all the marble workof the Merchants' Exchange buildingwas $125,000. There was a salvage ofthe marble amounting to $25,000. Thenew material and the replacing of thatsaved should, therefore, cost, $100,000,at wages and prices prevailing beforethe fire. The lowest bid for it was$167.000— an increase of 67 per cent.There Is as much marble as ever. Thefreight rates are unchanged. What Isthe cause of this advance of 67 percent? It is either inlabor or In con-tractors' profits, and contractors Insistthat not only are they making no moremoney than formerly, but that theyhardly dare take contracts at any price,not knowing what prices they mayhave to pay for labor. Some contract-ors are refusing to do business exceptat owner's risk of higher labor prices.

We might as well look the situationsquarely In the face. San Franciscowill not be permanently rebuilt whilelabor conditions remain as they are,because tenants cannot pay the rentswhich will be required. There will hono trouble about our jobbing trade andforeign commerce, for that business canbe done in shacks, but our activitywithin the city must cease with thecompletion of temporary work.. Indus-tries certainly willnot locate here to bein continual warfare with their em-ployes or else make the cost of theirproduct too high to enable Itto he soldin competition with other manufactur-ingcltios. The people of this city, andespecially the labor unions, must lookthe situation In tho face, and do it'now.Plans for a grout number of class Abuildingsare in preparation. Some huvnadvanced to the contracting point, butthe contrasts are not being let. Onelarge property owner. D. O. Mills, whohas cash in abundance, but who does nutlive Ir. this city, says that he can em-ploy his money in the east to far betteradvantage than to reconstruct hisbuildings hera at present prices, umlthat Ik what he In doing. A great num-ber of leasos have already been made,because the owners themselves were tooproud to put up shacks, and did notcare to bother with them. Shacks chiipay good ground rents, but contributelittle to the labor market— and nothingto the appearance of tho ctly.

From the San Francisco Chronicle.

Will Begin PermanentReconstruction

It Must Be Cleared Before Owners

LABOR SITUATION IN 'FRISCO

6

A SAFEGUARD.Mr. Beax-I see Willie Monk, the bar-ber, has a coat of mall.Mr.Lion—Yes; he has ep many porcu-

pine customers, \u0084 .

Mr. Hars-I'll bet that'g just what mywife needs to build her up. I'll get Abottle.

LONG PRACTICE.••arl«ve not tor m«!" the bullfrog §aid

"Boya thought their cruel «port a Jok*With stnneii they hit m*on the head-It's easy. sure, for me to croak!

NO HAMFOR HIM.Mr. Porker— flay, waiter, bring me a.

sandwich and a cup of oofftt.Waltrr-Wlmt kind of a uindwleh. sir?Mr. forktr-Anykind. »v v Uu't ham.

INSEPARABLE,Nonh-Th* «rk will h» crowded, andyou tntmald must r*m»mb«r thai you

can't IRK*»ny buCMt withyou.Bltphant-Th«t'» «II right: but you

don't get mo without my trunk.

COURTING INTHB ZOO.Mr Jumbo— Bo you called on Mln

Monkey la.t nlsht/Msk. m. mMhTMr. Mppo-Two of th»m. liar HttU

brother cot under the loft.

GAS FOR FUEL.

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Is convenient for every family

of every size. Tha only Fuelthat is not an unmitigated nuis-ance. Saves money ;saves toil.

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