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MAASAI WALK: MT MERU TO LAKE NATRON TANZANIA 1981 PART 3 THE JOURNEY TO LAKE NATRON April 19, Easter Sunday

Me, Dave Peterson, Charlie, Thad Peterson, Mosha, Bob

The day of celebration of our Lords resurrection. Left our camp in the early morning and drank in a beautiful sunrise towards the valley. So good to rest the foot and ride in a vehicle after covering so many miles on foot, but it was an overcrowded land rover. Dave drove, Thad and Eric rode on top, while we were

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all squeezed in the cab with gear. Once into the flatland basin to the west, a pastoral grassland, we spotted herds of zebra, Thompson’s and Grants gazelle, and then a lone Arabian oryx walking near the sandy road. Also saw yellow-necked spur fowl. The early morning sun, blue skies, verdant green

grass contrasted with bright orange soil of termite mounds, and scattered oryx and gerenuk, then a large group of giraffes. The valley we were to walk is incredibly beautiful, with a distant landscape of a perfect volcanic cone of Oldoinyo le Engai rising in the western horizon. Almost got stuck in several sections of track of high grass and mud. Had to get out and push the land rover several times through it. We encountered ostrich, prized by the Maasai for their headdress of warriors, bustard, bat-eared fox and more gerenuk. We finally reached the primitive but gravel, stony road leading to Gelai Lumbwa. Just before the town we stopped at a Maasai boma to get directions. The men were very friendly since Dave and Thad spoke Ki Swahili and Ki Maasai and wore the sandals they wore. They showed their knowledge of the culture. They offered us milk, sour or fresh from their gourds, which they clean and wash carefully, and daily with the frayed and burnt stem of Cordia sindengio or oldorkgyo. I tried some of the sour milk even though Dave and Thad declined, but I didn’t know their joke on me knowing what the contents of the milk until I had slaked my thirst. When there is no water to mix, it is mixed

with cow-urine, something they didn’t tell me until that night, and in jest laughing uncontrollably, and I with them. But it did taste pretty good. The village men and women were so friendly, and we had a great laugh together. We left, giving them a gift of tobacco. The Maasai build their bee-hive shaped homes within the protective thorn fence, structures built of mud and grass. They were dark inside, somewhat smoky, but cool, and no flies. They bring in the cattle and goats just before dark to keep them safe in the night, and

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graze them early in the morning just after six AM. I learned much from Moses about Maasai culture. They are hemitic, Ethiopian and Arabic in cultural background. The use the gourds of the calabaster, clean out the seeds, and smoke the insides to clean. They store milk in the containers, which can last up to a week before it

Dave,Thad knew the elder of Gendai lumbwa where I was given the opportunity to visit inside. turns sour inside. They were once nomadic, but now make their homes, which are small structures located within a thorny fenced boma. I was invited in by one of the elders inside his home. Very dark, walls covered with cow dung, mud within a wood/stick frame. Pitch black inside deliberately to keep out flies, but I could make out as my eyes adjusted several raised beds that were covered with cowhide, quite an odor. Their children are well loved, and I saw so many smiles on the 9-10-year-old boys that kept the cattle. The Maasai herders name their cattle and wear the ochre-dyed red shuka so that the cattle will know them and feel safe. They are a loose fit so that a man can escape thorn bushes that might yank at their garment. They know the sounds of the animals and can tell when there is danger. They used to steal cattle the past, and their saying goes ‘all the cattle belong to the Maasai, I just have to gather them, somewhat excusing stealing others animals. Young boy's 7-9 years old are given responsibility to take care of goats, and they must know where to feed them in the foothills and the forest. The men graze the cattle in the forest, especially during the dry season when the grass is dry. There is a Euphoria vine that has a milk-like sap, and if they get the sap in the eye, sets up like plastic. They will immediately cut the ear of a goat and apply the blood to the eye to help

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coagulate it and removes the plastic syrup. They also use the plastic sap to tattoo on their body.

They use ear plugs to decorate, and the women use extensive beadwork, as do the men. They initially used beads made from buffalo horn, ivory, and whalebone. Glass beads were introduced through Czechoslovakian trade and missionaries, and brightly colored beads have been used for the past 75 years. Red equals blood, blue the sky, white for milk, and green for the land. In ceremonies, the men wear less beads than the women do. They used to string the beads with fibrous woven strands from the back-leg tendon of a cow.

They eat chicken, goats and their cattle, but also love honey. There is a very small stingless bee that lives in the ground and creates chambers for its young. The Maasai will place his head just above ground level and look for the faint evidence of a swarm. They then find the location, given away by a small wax plug lying on the ground, which the bees cover back up at night to prevent the rains from getting into their nest. It is delicious honey. The pollen in the honey is a good source of vitamin C. They would measure the depth of the nest with a particular wood stick that acted as a shovel. Honey guides like the ones we saw in the Kiserian hills will come and try and draw them to a tree with their shriek call ‘kiddee, kiddee, kiddee.’ The men reply with a whistle, while they then follow the guide to the nest, then share their spoils with the bird. The young Maasai men become warriors and at sixteen get their freedom. All moran must never travel alone, in pairs, threes or fours. After circumcision for a period of time they then can become elders, requiring a ceremony where they wear their headdresses of ostrich feathers. The warriors hang out together in the woods and eat cattle, lots of meat. They must prove their responsibility to become and elder. The young murrani are vain, wear their hair long and weave raffia palm into their hair. The muranni protect the communities. They meet at a sacred tree, a fig with milk sap which they heat at the bark to make the sap come out. Initiation and circumcisions occur at these sacred tree sites. Learned some interesting facts about the animals here. The ground hornbills with bright red cask on top of their bill call out when the rains come. Elephant can communicate 10 miles away with their low frequency rumbling sounds that cannot be detected by the human ear. Such long-distance reach enables effective communication to elephant families separated by distance, whether for protective or mating purposes, and aid in reuniting family groups. Interestingly, communication between these majestic mammals is not only use to convey information regarding location, social structure or ecology. It is also used to convey emotions and thoughts to others, creating tight bonds that are not easily broken. Because their clan-style family structure is relatively complex, elephants

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rely on an equally intricate communication system to ascertain roles and responsibilities. We left the village in good spirits and continued to drive slowly along a very rough road. Lots of dried creek beds where we had to dig the land rover out through the rocks. It was a really bad road. Passed many Maasai warriors carrying their sticks, sword and spear, one wore a lion-mane helmet. As we

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rounded the long base of Gelai bomba known also as Meru goi, another small trade settlement. The view was the most spectacular pastoral scene I had seen in Africa. All around us were dramatic volcanoes, cinder cones, and ancient calderas scattered amidst shamrock green grassland plains lush with new grass from the recent rains. Blue skies framed the scene, with puffy cumulus clouds. We were at a higher elevation here near the edge of the rift, and it was not as hot as the lower plains to the east where we had come. We descended onto the meadowed grasslands and found large herds of zebra, gazelle, eland,

wildebeest, and ostrich. Other than the Selous, this was probably the most beautiful place I have been in Africa with volcano cones around us, and the most wonderful experience; great fellowship with Christian guys who love God’s creation, laughing, cutting up, and incredible scenery. We were the only land rover around for a hundred miles, no tourists in this yet undiscovered paradise. The grass veldt was taller than the Serengeti, and rich in grass, probably the product of the rich volcanic soils. Thad drove us up to the precipitous edge of a volcanic caldera, then stopped, almost launching Dave and I sitting on the hood us into the air for effect. We all laughed. He was also

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trying to knock the guys off on top, but in jest. We spent time

Caldera just south of Ol Doinyo Lengai in the distance on the rift valley, Tanzania

gazing at this deep, verdant green caldera Northeast of Lake Empakaai, with the volcano Ol Doinyo Lengai viewed to the north at the craters edge. We drove next to the awesome base of the steep cone of Oldoinyo le Engai, that had erupted about five years ago. We were in the lush rift valley, where the continental plates were fractured, and a high plateau was uplifted over a thousand feet elevation higher to the west, and the lower elevation alkaline or soda lake of Lake Natron in the distance to the northeast. Crossed numerous Korongos, outwash plains, then turned up the base of the rift valley to locate our camp. The location commanded an amazing view of Lake Natron and open, hilly

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grassland with Acacias, and volcanoes in the distance. We were desperate to swim but we knew the threat of the dangerous parasite Schistosomiasis that will bore through the skin in standing lake water or slow-moving rivers. The parasitic flatworm’s alternate host is the snail. We were safe in moving water so we parked the vehicle and jumped into a cool, refreshing clear creek in the heat of the day. A

white-throated bee-eater flashed in flight near us, and a wagtail dipped its tail up and down as it searched for insects in the stream. This was an incredible camp, with views of volcanoes, lake Natron, and Oldoinyo le Engai.

After lunch, we all took off and hiked up the creek that was spilling out of the rift canyon. The sound of the stream was music to my ears as the rush of cascading water reverberated through the beautiful canyon walls, a conglomerate of rock scoured into colorful shapes. Green canyon walls seem much like the Yakima River in sections, but with Acacia trees. Finally reached the waterfalls spraying down the vertical canyon walls and oasis lined with palm trees and moss. One large overhanging wall was heavy with small waterfalls spread over its face. We collected underneath its spray and enjoyed the cool, refreshing shower. It was an enclosed canyon, showered with sweet water. The stream was called Engari-

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Waterfall and canyon Engari-sero on the rift wall above our camp

sero, and was pure, no bilharzia that can be spread in the snail hosts by swimming yellow baboons. Found several punchbowl pools where a waterfall descended into a rolling boil like a jacuzzi. We stripped off our clothes and slid on a slide we found into a deep pool. The water was cool and refreshing. Afterwards we rock climbed through the boiling mass, hardly able to breath in the boiling foam, excited to ascend through these drops, then jump back into the pool. Doug, Bob, Dave, Thad, Ernie and I continued up the canyon naked, singing praises to the Lord along the way for the privilege of experiencing this paradise on Easter. More waterfalls, canyons, and palm trees, a magnificent green oasis. Saw a baboon which upon seeing us immediately took off, and Dave surprised a 4-foot long monitor lizard. Ferns and moss lined the canyon walls above. We were so high in the Lords day, whooping like monkeys, crouching, yelling, and playing mock fights like apes. This was an incredible place, on oasis like a Havasu falls in the Grand Canyon. Left for the trip back down to camp rested, and peaceful, looking at the canyon walls and Keri Mountain across the valley. At camp, evening was again so spectacular with a sunset that turned the clouds on fire. The veldt grasslands below us turned a brilliant metallic green and gold and Lake Natron into a metallic cobalt blue. The clouds towards Oldoinyo le Engai turned crimson red. Great meal around the fire, and Doug brought out his guitar and began to sing as the moon came up over the mountains. I lift this day up to you Lord, Thank you for the joy, may this be shared tonight by the campfire.

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Lake Natron with Flamingos feeding offshore

Lord may I serve you with all my heart. I walked down the stream towards the lake under a full moon, and a star-filled sky. Heard the sounds of baboons close by. It was a beautiful night as the lake glimmered the reflection of the stars while flamingoes roosted on the lake. I was so thankful and realized how blessed I was to see a part of Africa rarely seen by others, and shared by Dave, Thad and Eric. I spent time in prayer and reflection, and looked forward to sharing this amazing place, that grassland gardens that seemed almost like Eden with grazing herds of impala, wildebeest and eland. April 20, Monday Al woke Bob and I up and we got out of our tents 5:30 AM to witness a beautiful sunrise. An orange-red pastel glow was reflected In Lake Natron from mauve skies as the sun began to emerge above the horizon creating an incredibly magnificent sunrise. Nighthawks and bats were still out, then thinned out beginning to find their roosts for the day. We fired up the land rover and drove over to the grassland savannah and thorn brush area of Lake Natron, passing through chest high grass already in seed. We looked back at an impressive view of the rift walls where we were camped, the ridges rising 2,000 feet above the escarpment, reminding me of the green ridges rising from the sea above Sialom in Papua New Guinea. We wound our way through the maze of islands of trees until we reached Lake Natron. The edge of the lake was alkaline, a soda-seashore smell, yet the water was very clean. Hundreds of pelicans, lesser flamingoes, egrets, stilts, sandpipers and spoonbills feeding in the shallow water along the shore. A tremendous raucous noise of birds feeding, preening and

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socializing. The flamingoes were a beautiful sight on the lake, and the early morning light brought the colors of their feathers into a metallic pink hue. Lake Natron is a soda lake influenced by minerals from volcanic ash concentrated through evaporation that creates an alkaline soup. There are hot water springs, geysers, and boiling pools throughout the lake. The lake is home to the world’s largest concentration of flamingoes, where large groups of strutting birds can be seen annually in a mesmerizing romantic dance, heads moving side-to-side, after which they pair up and nest in the middle of the shallow lake. The flamingos wade in the hot, caustic water, feeding on a cyanobacteria Spirulina plantensis, a blue-green alga that floats on the top layer of water. These flamingos are more nomadic than migratory as a flock of one or two million could reside here for several years and then one morning be gone, moving on to another lake. Scientists have no idea what triggers a mass migration or mass-breeding event. The population of lesser flamingoes is estimated to be about five

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million in the world. Around four million are concentrated in eastern Africa, primarily in Ethiopia, Tanzania, and Kenya. Found lots of Hyena tracks along the lake, and the occasional bones of flamingoes. Hyena eat flamingo. The sun peeked over the ridge, warming the black sand and pumice beach at waters’ edge. Had lots of time to reflect on Gods goodness in this moment, a metaphor of the wonderful reflection of sky in the lake in this small paradise on the rift wall. The lake was calm and smooth as glass. We tried to find a different way back, with no luck, dead ends in scrub brush, but we did bump right into three cape buffalo in the shade, hidden under an acacia. They snorted at us, disturbed since we were only 20 feet away, too close. They bolted out, crashing through the brush. Found lots of sock-shaped nests of weavers, large groups red-billed quelia, a pest in the agricultural areas of Africa. Also watched the early morning light highlight a tight-flying flock of white egrets that moved in unison, flashing white as they shifted directions, much like a school of herring balled up to escape salmon, only the fluid was air not the sea.

Panorama center: Gelai and Lake Natron in the distance from our camp at base of the rift wall

Panorama from right to left: Ol Doinyo LenGai, Gelai and forest reserve, Lake Natron Once back in camp, I took one last walk up to the canyon to the waterfalls. It is such an inspirational place to pray and sing to the Lord. It was becoming stifling

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hot by late morning, except next to the rift wall and canyon where there were cool downdrafts. Broke camp and left, saying goodbye to Al and his wife Sally and Bob. We were heading to the top of the rift by a rough jeep track and drove the land rover along the rift edge over an incredibly bad road with washouts, sharp boulders. The rough track led to the top of the rift wall. It was a raw looking escarpment, badland-like terrain. Once on top we passed by Maasai bomas and expansive grasslands filled with scattered but small cinder cones. Had a wonderful view of Lake Natron below, with the plains expanding below us as far as the eye could see. The grasslands also continued to the north with a beautiful view of the Ngorongoro conservation area. More zebra, gazelle, and Maasai cattle. Lots of water covering the road on top, with one section almost waste deep. The land rover made it through, but almost conked out the engine submerged on the crossing proving land rovers are a tough machine, and great to travel with. Farther into the road, we stopped by a large Lorry that had broken down, and we picked up a Maasai woman with a child who was incoherent, and wouldn’t talk, just looked straight ahead. We carried her as far as Loliando, a small community village but sadly she wouldn’t respond to David’s attempt to talk to her. We continued up to the highlands, with tall Euphorbia-like trees, very green. More washouts, but finally reached the highland plateau at 7,000 feet. We reached the northwestern edge of the Serengeti and the border of Kenya. More wildebeest, zebra, and gazelle grazing in the expansive plains, with scattered Maasai bomas. The highlands had interesting trees: Tanzanian cedars, juniper, and olive trees. We met Pat and his companion who were Catholic priests in a rectory here. Shared dinner with them and had an interesting conversation about the problems of Loliando, its isolation and frontier-like atmosphere. Thankyou Lord for such a beautiful day, and your abundant grace and a good sleep. April 21 Tuesday. Loliando We spent several laid-back days here. I spent most of it reading and relaxing, chatting with the priests about their work. Many Maasai women came down from their bomas above to sell their fresh cow’s milk here. Several young boys would also walk by and stop to stare at us, followed by a passing Maasai warrior. The boys were intrigued by my beard and hair, and the hair on my arms, and asked if they could touch it. They were amazed at how different I was from them. The women were beautifully featured, wearing colorful beaded necklaces and earrings, carrying their gourds. Last night we had a heated discussion over dinner on Tanzanian government. They had too many workers featherbedded into positions, low pay, no accountability. Transportation problems, high prices charged by RTC government stores or Dumas. But nevertheless, a good discussion. Pat and Killian are dedicated men of God. Late in the afternoon I hiked to the top of the hill to the boma above, observing the beautiful green rolling hills, and Maasai in red robes walking by with their cattle. I taught four young Maasai children how to moo like a cow, which cracked them up as half of

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the cows next to us they were supposed to be watching walked right up to my call. It was great fun and laughter. I visited the boma above Loliando again, a community of dwellings that are protected within fever tree or acacia thorn fence. Then spent the afternoon watching kids in school do native dances. Mosha and I sat down in the grass to observe, but we sat right in the middle of Siafu or army ant nest. The ants quickly crawled up inside our pant legs and bit in unison as if on cue. The kids got a good laugh as Mosha and I danced madly around in front of the teachers and students, stripping off our clothes as the ants kept biting, severe enough to draw blood. I had over 60 pilgrims on me. Tonight, Dave came down with Malaria. He had the severe shakes and it was over 90 degrees out. We tried to comfort him with blankets, but he was miserable. Got him some medication at the dispensary. We needed to get him back to Arusha. April 24, Friday Started out early in the morning at dawn and drove south to the Serengeti. A peaceful setting. We skirted the eastern edge of the plains amidst a fog that had settled over the dew-laden grasslands. The early morning sun streamed through the fog and warmed the infinite horizon of parkland. Giraffe, Thompson’s gazelle, eland, many species of animals on the veldt, including zebra, ostrich, jackals. Further east we found large herds of wildebeest, but they were east and north of the Seronera and Ndutu section of the Serengeti. Lots of eland in the herds. We stopped the land rover in the middle of a herd of wildebeest, and I walked part of the way. I had so much joy listening to the sounds of these mammals, stomach rumblings, the crunching of grass in their teeth as they were eating. Wildebeest call like giant frogs groaning. I could feel the ground tremble when the herd ran from us. Hyenas were on a wildebeest kill. We drove along the highlands and along the crater rim of Ngorongoro, and stopped to have lunch, then continued to drive home to Arusha. Dave was a bit better, wrapped in a blanket but the shivering had almost gone. He is one tough guy. It was an incredible long haul since we drove from 6:00Am through awful tracks and roads to 4:00PM. Dave and Thad invited me to stay at their home for the weekend after unloading the gear, and we drove out to Oldoinyo Samba at the base of Mt. Meru to meet their friends Dean and Elaine. April 25-26 A beautiful, spirit-filled weekend with the Peterson family. Every morning Mt. Meru was dominant to the east under clear skies. The evenings were filled with spectacular sunsets over the mountains. Thunderheads formed over the mountains in the evening. Elaine was a great woman, and cook, gardener. Tomatoes, beans, corn, cucumbers. They had a methane stove using cow dung, as well as pig if available, to ferment, piping off the gas to be used. A wood

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heater was used for hot water, and an adjunct to a solar water heater. We had rabbit for dinner, and fresh salads. Dave and I took their horses for a ride along the road and watched a colorful sunset. It was so peaceful here. Shared with his Dad about the Lord in my life. They accepted me like a son. It was so good to be here. The local villagers were really part of their fellowship. Dave and Thad were both trying to get them to manage their overgrazing practice with cattle and use the land more judiciously. The church service on Sunday morning was great. We had communion, and the choir sang Lutheran songs with such upbeat traditional African melodies. It was such a privilege to be with them. Following the celebration, we sat outside and listened to some bluegrass music on tape, then walked up to the Catholic rectory with Eric and Ellen to meet Marian and Denise, sisters teaching school. After a good shellacking in volleyball, we shared the evening meal together, then home to the Peterson’s in a pouring downpour. Thankyou Father for a precious day, and time to integrate into Maasai life, and see through the eyes of Dave, Thad and Eric, a part of wild Africa that in 1981, few would ever see until today (2018) as I edit my journal of so many years ago.

Sunset, African Paradise flycatcher, gerenek, Rift valley

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Rift valley looking north from Lake Natron towards our camp

Aerial view of Ol Doinyo Lengai, Lake natron and Gelai Forest Reserve

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Egrets flying in synchronization

Ol Doinyo LenGai and Gai Forest reserve from camp at Lake Natron, 1981