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Why grade? The purpose of grading is toproportionally increase or decrease the sizeof a pattern, while maintaining shape, fit,balance, and scale of style details (dress,original design).

Making Sense of Pattern Grading

by Terry HorlamusExcerpted from Threads #101, pp. 66-70

The term pattern grading may initially conjure up visions of complicated measurements and fancy rulers, but once the basic concept is understood, theactual process of grading is easy, especially using the method I outline here. This means that you—the home sewer, custom dressmaker, or independentdesigner—can do just as good a job as Vogue, Burda, Calvin, or Donna.

I'll explain the thought process behind grading and touch upon the three different methods used in theindustry today. Then I'll take you step-by-step through a simple cut-and-spread grading method andprovide the measurements and formulas you'll need to get started. So whether you want to take abeloved pattern up (or down) a size or two or you want to create a small line of clothing, pattern gradingis an important tool. Once you understand it, you'll be able to take your sewing to the next level.

The basic conceptHistorically, the science of grading went hand-in-hand with the advent of commercial patterns and themass-production of pattern-built clothing some 150 years ago. To properly fit a pattern to a range ofsizes, each pattern piece needed to be graded, or systematically increased or decreased. Today,pattern companies and apparel manufacturers take a middle-sized pattern (typically a size 12) and gradeit up for larger sizes and grade it down for smaller sizes (see One pattern, three sizes).

One pattern, three sizes

A base size 12 pattern (left) can be graded up to a size 16 (center) using the cut-and-spreadmethod, and similarly graded down to a size 6 (right) by cutting and overlapping alongspecified cut lines.

Methods of gradingThere are three basic methods of grading: cut and spread, pattern shifting, and computer grading. No one method is technically superior and all areequally capable of producing a correct grade.

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Related PostsQuick Reference for Cut-and-Spread Pattern GradingOscar & Mia, dressed to impress!IronmanMaking a Side Seam Read True

Cut-and-spread method: The easiest method, which is the basis of the other two methods, isto cut the pattern and spread the pieces by a specific amount to grade up, or overlap them tograde down. No special training or tools are required—just scissors, a pencil, tape, and a rulerthat breaks 1 in. down to 1/64.

Pattern shifting: Pattern shifting is the process of increasing the overall dimensions of apattern by moving it a measured dis-tance up and down and left and right, (using a speciallydesigned ruler) and redrawing the outline, to produce the same results as the cut-and-spreadmethod.

Threads Magazine, editor

Posted on Nov 1st, 2008 in patterns, fundamentals, fitting,grading

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