malawi expedition diary 2013

Malawi Expedition 2013

Day 1: Thursday 25th July 2013 An early start with a meeting time set for 7am at School. By 7.25am everyone had arrived. Build-up day begins with a bag check – a quick look through everything that has been packed to ensure that only items on the kit list are brought and nothing important is forgotten. Then onto planning the way the group will work – having a designated day leader and then team members responsible for various aspects of the expedition – assistant leader, money, food, transport, accommodation etc. Each team member would take a turn as the day leader. There was also the group kit to sort out – this needed to be taken with the group and included the tents, first aid kits, and safety equipment.

Each part of the group kit was discussed and various items distributed to the team members. Everyone was issued with a wristband that had the Outlook emergency contact number on. Everyone made sure that they were familiar with the satellite phone. By 11.30am, all was prepared and most of the team headed for the Co-op to pick up last minute supplies.

Bags were packed again. A number of knitted jumpers were distributed amongst the group and squeezed into their rucksacks – these would be distributed to local children when we reached Masasa CDSS (Community Day Secondary School) – our partner school near Mzuzu in Northern Malawi.

With all our preparations done, the team moved their kit to where the bus was waiting. Parents began to arrive and the level of nervous excitement began to rise. Bags were placed on the bus and parents were given a final farewell. At Noon, with the team on board, the bus started its journey and with a final wave they began their long journey to Malawi - involving three flights, two buses and about 30 hours.

It wasn’t long before we arrived at Manchester Airport. With bags unloaded, we moved into the airport and started to Check-in, entering our details onto the computers, scanning the passports and receiving the boarding passes. Bags were then handed in – to be seen next when we arrive in Malawi. Then, we passed through to the departures lounge, with various checks and X-rays done.

We made it to the departure gate with only 5 minutes to spare, despite arriving at the Airport three hours before the flight! Once on board, we were treated to a Manchester downpour as our farewell to the UK. The plane taxied to the runway and we were soon airborne, on our 19 day expedition to complete a project in our partner school and to experience a flavour of the lives and culture of an African country, considered to be one of the tenth poorest countries in the World.

Once landed in Schiphol airport in Amsterdam there was time for some shopping and to buy a snack or two. It’s a large airport and a number of travelators help to speed up the walk and signs show how many minutes it might take to walk to each departure gate. Soon the team moved to the departure gate where the Kenyan Airways plane was ready for the long flight to Nairobi.

Another set of security checks and a long slow queue, but eventually we boarded the plane. The plane departed for the long taxi to the runway, but we were soon in the air again on the 4140 mile trip to Nairobi. Once we had levelled off, we had the usual meals, snacks, and drinks to keep us going, along with the TV screens in the back of the seat in front helped to pass the time on the 8 hour flight.

Airplane seats aren’t the most comfortable to try to sleep on and some struggled to get much sleep, while others seemed to have no trouble dropping off. Fortunately, for those who were still awake, there was a wide selection of films, TV show, games and music available on the entertainment system, to while away the hours. As we were travelling overnight, there was little for those with window seats to see outside.

Day 2: Friday 26th July 2013 At 3am, the lights came on and breakfast was served. At 4.30am, the in-flight entertainment system showed us passing of over the equator – for some this was their first time in the southern Hemisphere. Soon we started to descend and landed at 5.50am local time (UK +2). Once a base had been established, we had time to explore the terminal and look at the various African souvenirs on display in the shops.

An hour later, we were ready for more security checks and boarded the final flight of our outward journey. For some on the left of the plane, there was a glimpse of the top of Mount Kilimanjaro, with its snow-capped peak just breaking through the clouds below. Another breakfast and we were soon over Lake Malawi and starting our descent into Lilongwe Airport.

Once on the ground, there was a short journey in the bus to get to the terminal. There was the long queue to the passport checks – including fingerprint scans and our faces photographed. Since our last expedition, there have been some improvements to the airport. Our bags were ready on the Carousel and the accountants headed to the bank to change our dollars into Kwacha. With an exchange rate of 345MKW to the dollar, money was collected in large bundles.

Once out of the terminal we quickly found the transport – a 25 seater coach. The transport manager had their first challenge – they were asked for payment for the bus. The Itinerary pack that the team had clearly stated when and where the money should be paid. As part of the expedition, the team is given a budget and it is up to them to ensure that they can pay for everything they need.

Once sorted. We were on our way out of the airport and towards the M1 road. No wider than Woodhead Road, it is the main route north through Malawi. It passes through many small villages, with shops and stalls. They are usually the focal point of the local population, with the bus sounding its horn as a warning as it approaches at speed.

By 12.30pm, we had reached Kasungu – a small town just off the M1. The accountants worked out how much could be spent on lunch and a group was despatched to go shopping. Bread rolls, margarine, and various fillings and bananas were bought and the food team took orders and prepared the lunch, as we continued to travel north.

Unfortunately, the standards of maintenance of vehicles is not the same as we expect in the UK and we soon experienced out first of many vehicle issues that were to become a feature of the expedition. Not long out of Kasungu, the driver grabbed a passing bus to return to collect a mechanic. Replacement brake shoes had been brought and the roadside repair took place.

As we waited, a number of young children appeared from the long grass, giving our students the opportunity to interact with them. A ball was produced from one of the bags and we were able to help the time pass with a variety of games by the road. After several hours, the repairs were completed and we were able to continue our journey.

Eventually we reached the turn off onto the rough mud track towards Luwawa Forest Lodge. After 45 minutes along the bumpy track, we arrived at the Lodge. Once unloaded, the students settled into the bunkhouse. The lodge is set in a forest, originally used for a paper mill, but now a managed forest producing wood for building.

We had pre-booked accommodation and food, following the long journey and by 8.30pm were seated for dinner in the main building. The Lodge has some electricity from a generator in the evenings and hot water is produced by boilers over log fires. Flushing toilets and running water in the taps ensured that everyone could relax a bit after travel that had started 31 hours before in Holmfirth.

Day 3: Saturday 27th July 2013 Luwawa is in the Viphya Mountains at an altitude of about 1650m, so nights can be chilly and we woke to frost in the morning.

The cooks were already making breakfast on the Braai over a wood fire. For some, a hot shower – as long as the hot water was available. Soon everyone ready for breakfast – a ‘full English’.

By 9.15am we were ready to set off by bus to Donija Nkhoma village – an hour drive away. To assist the village in raising money for fertiliser and other much needed resources, cultural visits have been set up. The village headman, Vincent, talked to the group about marriage and how land is allocated.

Following our last visit in 2011, Vincent had asked for a solar panel to help charge mobile phones – previously it was a two hour walk to the tarmac road to charge a phone. Following a fund-raising event, the money was raised to provide the village with this equipment.

The village consists of about 150 people, 6 or 7 family groups living in small clusters of homes, surrounded by their gardens – the fields where they grow their crops. A small stream separates part of the village, impassable by vehicle and difficult to cross in the rainy season. Vincent asked for help with building a suitable bridge – it would cost around £400 for materials (planed wood, cement etc.).

After the tour of the village, we returned to the headman’s house for lunch – chicken, vegetables, relish (sauce) and a first taste of nsima. Nsima is made from maize flour and water and heated to make a bland doughy material. After lunch, we were treated to a display of cultural dancing and drums, with the ladies wearing the tradition chitenje dresses. As the dances continued, we showed our appreciation with tips in a basket.

Some of our students joined in with the bird dance, with various actions reflecting the preparation and harvest of maize.

After dancing, we were given a gift of food and drink – sponge cake made from maize flour and tea, before final speeches of thanks.

Before we left, we signed the visitor’s book – and found the previously two entries for the 2008 and 2011 visits. Vincent made some final requests for assistance – he asked for a medical facility, a nursery, a secondary school and a University for Donija village. A little optimistic, however, they had previously mentioned a bridge over the stream that divides the village, which may be possible with some fund-raising activities.

With our visit to Donija over, we returned to Luwawa. The plan had been to head for the top of a nearby hill to see the sun setting over Zambia, but time was short, so we headed for the reservoir for sun downers instead. Spirits were high after a busy but interesting day, where everyone had had the opportunity to gain a greater understanding of the lives and culture of the majority of the Malawi people.

After a busy, tiring day, it was time for dinner in the dining area and time to reflect on what we had seen.

Finally, a little time to chill out before setting down, with most of us still needing to recover from the long travel from Holmfirth to Malawi.

Day 4: Sunday 28th July 2013 Time to move on to Mzuzu, so the day started with a meeting to plan the day. After breakfast, bags were packed and loaded on the bus ready for the 45min rough, dusty mud track back to the tarmac. The bus driver had been worried about another possible mechanical problem – the bus had been checked and seemed OK, however, the rough track seemed to cause extra damage.

The bus pulled over and it was clear a repair was needed. Given our remote location, this would take time, so the decision was taken to find alternate transport. The team’s Itinerary Pack contained useful contact details, unfortunately there wasn’t a mobile phone signal, so the satellite phone was used to sort a different bus – it would take at least 2 hours to reach us, travelling down from Mzuzu.

The Itinerary pack contained details of the expedition, where and when various activities were planned and also details of the budget. In the meantime, the students played games with the local children.

As time passed, food for lunch was prepared. Bread and various fillings had been bought in Kasungu ready for the travel north, so the sandwich crew got to work. By this time we had news that the bus was on its way. Other snacks were bought from the nearby shop – a small wooden shack with a small selection of drinks and basic food.

Five hours after we had reached the tarmac road, the replacement bus arrived. The luggage was transferred, everyone got aboard and we set off again for Mzuzu

We made reasonable time, passing through several small roadside villages, separated by long sections of apparently uninhabited land, interspersed with occasional mud built homes.

As we travelled closer to Mzuzu, we passed Elephant Rock, one of several exposed rocks on the Nyika Plateau, this one resembling the shape of an elephant, with it back on the right and head and trunk on the left.

The William Koyi Guesthouse in Mzuzu is fairly basic, but fitted the bill for one night. Dinner was either chicken or beef with either rice or nsima. Everyone quickly settled into their rooms, sorting out their bags and ensuring that their mosquito nets were fitted and any holes repaired.

Day 5: Monday 29th July 2013 We were woken at 5am by the call to prayer from the Mosque, then by the church bells at 6am. Breakfast was at 6.30am, so an early start for everyone.

Soon after breakfast the shoppers set off to buy a mobile phone form the AirTel shop.

Various groups heading off to the supermarket and local markets to buy food for the next few days. Teachers from Masasa CDSS had greeted our arrival at the CCAP Guesthouse yesterday and the returned to guide us on the 45 minute walk to the school. We took a slightly different route from previous expeditions, as there had been some new buildings that blocked the old route.

There are a number of tarmac roads in the centre of Mzuzu, but once away from the main shopping area, we were walking on mud roads. As it was the Malawi winter, the roads were fairly dry, but the ruts and uneven surface reflected a more difficult journey in the rainy season.

Once at the school, we had a quick guided tour to look at the classroom, survey what work we might be able to do and look at the resources that had been completed during the previous two expeditions.

We were quickly onto the project, updating the resources on the walls. With the felt-tip pens we had bought, the outlines were re-drawn again.

Through a connection with one of our students at Holmfirth, UNICEF had helped the school update its pit latrines. The new latrines also included urinals and a system when the urine is use to help fertilise crops. The plan was to help finish their use by planting fruit trees later on. Everyone settled in, blowing up airbeds, sorting mosquito nets etc. Girls in one science lab, boys in the other with adults in tents.

As part of our time at the school, we intended to get a flavour of Malawi life – sleeping on the floor, cooking on charcoal, limited water and toilet facilities, limited electricity. With the sun setting around 6pm, and limited electric light, the locals tended to go to bed around 9pm. They were usually up at 5am, heating water for bathing in the morning.

Day 6: Tuesday 30th August 2013 With it being light early, everyone was awake by 6.30am. Breakfast was delayed at we were expecting some bread to be delivered. Unfortunately, it didn’t arrive and it was 7.45am before the charcoal was lit and finally breakfast of porridge was served at 8.30am. By 9am most were actively involved in activities – painting chalkboards and walls, washing clothes, playing games with the local children.

While we were at Masasa, the container from Huddersfield that was loaded and sent in April should have arrived. It sounded as if it was due soon, so to give us the best chance of being around it was decided to change the itinerary and go on Safari earlier.

Transport was booked, the lodge bookings at the Nature Reserve were confirmed and plans in place. While one group was shopping in Mzuzu, the rest were on Project, while scrambled eggs on toast was cooked for lunch.

With everyone back at school after a busy day - shopping done, painting and resources making progress, bags being packed and preparations made. The local female teachers and students helped our team cook a Malawi style meal – plenty of rice, mince and vegetables. With a team meeting to discuss plans, everyone settled down to sleep, as the rain started to fall – amplified by the tin roof on the classrooms.

Day 7: Wednesday 31st August 2013 We woke up to heavy rain, but it was the usual routine of starting the charcoal burners and preparing breakfast. While waiting for the porridge, the charcoal burners were used to make toast – a new experience for our Malawi friends. A bus had been organised to take us to Vwasa Marsh, but time was passing and it hadn’t arrived.

In the meantime, sandwiches making was underway ready for lunch later on in the day. Eventually, it emerged that the bus was no longer available and that taxis had been arranged instead. Unfortunately, we needed more taxis and that would cost more money than was allocated in the budget. After much negotiation, the bags were unloaded and the taxis were sent away.

Originally, the plan was to leave at 8.30am, but it was now 10.30am and no transport. The decision was taken to walk into Mzuzu, do some food shopping while the transport team sort alternative vehicles. At Vwasa Marsh, there would be cooks to do the food for the group; however, we needed to all the ingredients.

With shopping done and transport arranged – a couple of minibuses with enough seats for everyone and space for the luggage, we finally set off at 1.30pm. By 3pm, we had arrived at Rumphi, the last town on tarmac before heading west on the rough mud track for an hour, finally arriving at the Vwasa Marsh Nature Reserve.

The Rest and Relaxation team had visited the government offices in Mzuzu to confirm our booking in the Lodges, but when we arrived, there was another Outlook group who thought they had also booked. Eventually, a solution was found and we settled in. Dinner was Steak and potatoes. After a busy day, it was time for sleep, ready for an early start in the morning to go on a driving safari.

Day 8: Thursday 1st August 2013 Awake early, the sun up over Kazuni Lake. Our lodges were about 50metres from the edge of the Lake with a panoramic view. We could see a group of Impala by the water and hippos basking in it. After a hot drink, the rangers arrived and we boarded the minibuses and set off to see more animals.

As we drove along the rangers, Hassan and Martha, pointed out the various animals along the way. We saw many animals – Kudus, warthogs, massive termite mounds, Verivet monkeys, possibly a rare sighting of a Buffalo, Impala, Hippos and numerous types of birds.

With a close up look at the Hippos from close to the lake, we were also able to see numerous elephant and hippo footprints in the mud from when the water receded. During the rainy season, the lake water level rises to the bushes behind the ranger. Here she shows a hippos trail – they use these at night to visit their feeding grounds further inland.

Once back at camp, it was time for a wash before sitting down to breakfast – a full English. After breakfast everyone had time to chill – looking at the animals around the lake, sitting in the Sun, reading books, or dozing.

Later in the morning we were treated to our first sight of elephants. A herd of elephants worked their way along the trees and shrubs at the far side of the late, giving everyone time to see them.

It was an amazing sight as they worked their way from tree to tree, ripping branches and leaves off as they went. With binoculars and zoom features on cameras, we were able to get a good view of the herd as it slowly moved its way around the edge of the lake.

Lunch was served. A chance to sit out and eat ‘al fresco’ with a great view over the lake. In the afternoon, there was a little more time to relax before setting off on our second safari.

Again, we travelled along the rough mud roads eagerly looking out the windows to try to find the elephants for a closer look. After almost 2 hours, we had seen a wide range of animals and had the opportunity to walk closer to the edge of the lake to see the basking hippos from a slightly closer viewpoint. We were a little disappointed to have missed out on the elephants on the safari

As we approached the camp, suddenly the vehicles stopped, the ranger cocked his loaded rifle and everyone went quiet as a herd of elephants were seen close to the track, working their way through the trees about 20 metres away. We watched for about 10 minutes as they moved slowly from tree to tree, eating leaves from the branches. We returned to the camp on a high, after such a close up view of these amazing creatures.

Time for a team photo by the lake. After a couple of games of Frisbee, we were preparing for dinner, when three elephants were spotted on the far side of the lake. Everyone retreated to the lodges and stayed very quiet. The three elephants plodded across in front of us by the lake – wow!

There was quite a buzz at dinner; the talk was about the events of the day, after our African Safari. Then we started to pack and prepare for our return to Masasa and our thoughts returned to project and possible arrival of the container. Everyone settled down for the night ready for an early start and return to Mzuzu in the morning.

Day 9: Friday 2nd August 2013 With the Sun rising, some woke up early and were rewarded with a great view of the elephants. The herd had passed lose by the previous evening, but with the sun setting, we struggled to see clearly in the fading light and cameras struggled to record the event.

No such worries in the morning, as the herd plodded slowly across the river and over towards the trees. Three early risers were rewarded with an unrestricted close up view as the elephants crossed a track and returned excitedly shouting ’We saw elephants’.

A final breakfast at Vwasa Marsh, before packing the bags on to the buses ready for the journey back to Mzuzu. An hour along the rough mud track back to the tarmac road, passing the isolated communities along the way. Most walk everywhere, some on bikes, with the rest hitching a lift on whatever vehicle they can.

Once back on the tarmac at Rumphi, we made better progress. We had left Mzuzu in the rain and as we approached Mzuzu, the rain stared again. The plan was to stop off in Mzuzu for food to stock up for the weekend and for the ladies to visit the Tanzanian Market, where they could buy a Chitenje – a wrap around dress.

The market does look a little scary from the outside – dark, narrow passages between ramshackle wooden shacks, however, once initial reservations are overcome, everyone soon realise it is a very friendly, welcoming place.

Time had passed and it was lunchtime again. We had stopped at the CCAP Guesthouse again, so it seemed a good place for a cheap lunch.

Once back at the school, we were quickly on project again. The school had already sorted the concrete blocks for the container, so we set about creating a level platform ready for its arrival.

Chicken was on the menu for dinner, so three live chickens were purchased at the market and some volunteers wanted to help prepare them.

The local teachers helped show the cooking team how to pluck and clean the chickens. Then on with the cooking, Malawi style, along with mixing the nsima – made from maize flour and water.

After dinner, the usual routine of washing up with a washing up rota sorted.

It had been a busy day, but productive day. The project work was coming along nicely and there was plenty of opportunity to interact with the locals.

To finish off our Malawi meal, it was time to sample the sugar cane bought at the local stalls. Once the hard outer layer is taken off (usually with the teeth) it exposes the fibrous sugar soaked fibres that are bitten off and chewed to extract the sugary juice. Once the flavour has gone it is time to spit out the fibres. The sides of the tracks and roads are littered with the remnants of the sugar cane eaten by locals as the walk along.

Day 10: Saturday 3rd August 2013 The food team were getting into a regular morning routine – getting up early to start the charcoal burners with ‘plastic paper’ Before long, the charcoal was ready to use with pot of water being heated for bathing water Next, it was milk for porridge and finally the eggs, sausage and tomatoes with toast.

Once everyone had eaten and the washing up done, some were back on project. The shoppers headed for the town to pick up more fresh food, while others continued painting in the classrooms. The original site for the container was on a slope, so the blocks were moved to a flatter areas and the process of levelling them began.

After lunch, we set off into town to visit a couple of weddings. These are big community events with activities taking place over several hours, with guests dropping in and out when they can. With the wedding party at the front, various groups of guests are invited to hand in their wedding gifts – putting money into a basket.

Dressed in the traditional Chitenje, our ladies looked the part as we danced our way to the front. The day leader also became involved, when invited to the front to hold the basket for the next round of gifts.

After we had received a gift of a drink of pop. We set off to another wedding nearby – the cousin of Zenga, one of the teachers looking after us. Another round of dancing and gifts. Another drink and a bun, before returning to school.

It was a busy, but interesting day. The second wedding was particularly busy, with standing room only. In a very religious country, marriage is an important part of the cultural life in Malawi – something that Vincent had talked about when we were at Donija Village. The local school children had cooked dinner for us – beef stew, rice and vegetables. After washing up and a meeting to plan the next day, it was time for bed.

Day 11: Sunday 4th August 2013 An early start for everyone, ready for breakfast and waiting for the taxis to take us across Mzuzu to the Katawa district, where headteacher Lizzie lives. We were welcomed into her home before we walked the short distance to Katawa CCAP (Central Church African Presbyterian) ready for the short walk. By 8am we had arrived in time for the English Service.

It was a lengthy service with a number of readings, hymns and songs. As part of the service all visitors are introduced to the congregation, so the group had to stand up at the front. Lizzie explained about our group and what we were doing. Previously, we had sent useful items to be distributed in Kawata. The football team showed off their kit.

We had been greeted at Lizzie’s by the smell of freshly baked scones. After the service and a snack served by the ladies. Some of the females in the team assisted Lizzie with preparation of lunch.

After lunch, we had the opportunity to visit the homes of some of Lizzie’s neighbours. A difficult experience for all, with a sense of intruding, with these families the Malawi phrase ‘Life is hard’ is particularly apt.

Basic two room homes, with little or no furniture, certainly no luxury. A bed for a family of 6, small bare living space, outside cooking area and pit toilets. There was a sombre atmosphere amongst the group as we moved from home to home. Families with only the clothes they are wearing, little food, no entertainment, little or no electricity, water from a nearby tap.

These living circumstances are quite common in Malawi, one of the 10 poorest countries in the World. We next visited the Mzuzu Crisis Nursery. A charity was set up about 10 years ago, taking in babies where their mothers’ have died in childbirth. In Malawi, on average, 1 in 36 mothers die in childbirth – in the UK the average is 1 in 5,000. Without access to their mother’s milk and in families where they cannot afford to feed themselves, let alone buy formula milk, the risk of the infants dying is high.

This nursery takes in these babies, feeds and cares for them until they are weaned on to solid food. The contact is kept with the child’s family and they must visit the child every month. Once the infants survived the crucial first two years and are able to eat solid food, they are returned to their family. The Nursery continues to monitor the progress of the child and to support the family. The Charity has helped 192 children so far.

After quite an intensive day, we returned to the School. We had seen the sort of things today that are usually on News reports or charity events such as Red Nose Day. It is difficult to see the circumstances that some families are in and the challenges that they live with The local ladies had cooked us a meal again. After the meeting to discuss events for Monday, we had an early night.

Day 12: Monday 5th August 2012 It was going to be a busy day on project. Charcoal burners were on at 6.30am and breakfast was ready by 7.30am. At 8am, most were busy on project, washing clothes, there was a final opportunity to get clothes washed, with some local girls earning some Kwacha. With only two days left on project, there was a good sense of purpose, wanting to make sure the tasks were finished.

By 10am, the shoppers had set off to Mzuzu – the food team buying provisions for the day and the project team buying more paint and finding fruit trees to plant. At school, the final diagrams were being drawn.

Lunch of beans on toast soon arrived. The heavy rain had highlighted the problems with the gutters around the classrooms. Money raised during the recent Stayawake event had been taken with us and this was used to buy 30 bags of cement. The Chairman of the PTA was on hand to work out a quote for the full cost of the repairs. We were able to help with a donation towards some of the cost, the school committee will need to provide the rest.

In the afternoon, Lizzie had arranged for some of the younger local children to come to the school. We had taken out knitted jumpers and planned to hand them out. The nights can be quite chilly and the jumpers will help the children keep warm.

This was an opportunity to hand out the pens, pencils, rubbers, books etc. that had also been taken out. We finally managed to buy the 100 fruit trees so they were stored in one of the classrooms, ready for planting.

Today was time for an English meal – in Malawi, the cost of meat is the same, whichever cut you get, so we bought ribeye steak from the local butchers – at £1 each! Along with Irish potatoes, we were all treated to Steak and chips. The contrast in living standards was highlighted as the Masasa teachers told us that, when they had the money to buy meat, they would have a single steak chopped into pieces to feed their whole family.

Day 13: Tuesday 6th August 2013 An early start for the final project day with the charcoal on the go at 5.50am. Soon water for bathing was available and breakfast was cooking. By 9am, everyone was busy – some finishing the diagrams on the walls, the Rest and relaxation team headed to the internet café to book accommodation for the time at the lake and shopping for more paint. Unfortunately, there were repairs being undertaken to the water pipes nearby, so the single tap outside the science block – the source of our water, was dry.

A good chance for some to experience the effort needed to get water. The nearest borehole was in the village, so a short walk and payment to the local Maize Mill, that owns the pump. With buckets filled, time to carry them back to the school – not an easy task with the weight of the filled buckets in the hot sun. With regular breaks, they made it back without spilling too much water. Time, also, to try carrying it Malawi style!

After lunch, back on project. Finishing the resources, adding colour, and starting to plant the fruit trees we had purchased the day before. The plan was to plant the trees below the new UNICEF toilets. The toilets have the traditional ‘long drop’ pit latrine, but also urinals, one design suitable for males and a different design suitable for females. A pipe takes the urines to the land below the urinals.

Bricks below the surface disperse the urine into the surrounding soil and this is used to fertilise the plants. The school had requested fruit trees, so 100 trees of various types were purchased – mango, peach, avocado, apples, pears. They were planted below the planned 5 sets of latrines and should grow to provide fruit over the next few years.

The partnership was set up in January 2008 and since then we have supported the Masasa students and teachers with donations of money and equipment. As a result of the science equipment we had sent, two specialist physical science teachers have been allocated to the school. Lizzie, the headteacher, advised us that their exam results have made the school the best Community Day Secondary School in the Northern District of Malawi.

The school is also the 13th best in CDSS in the whole of Malawi (out of 636!). Quite an achievement for a school with 300 students in four classes. The latest expedition date was added to the display in the Staffroom. We also a planted a palm tree in front of the school. The school is on top of a hill and, when fully grown, the tree will act as a beacon to locate the School in the surrounding area.

Another English treat for the locals helping us - sausage and mash! It had been a successful day – the resources were finished, painting done, trees planted. The bookings had been made for the next few days by the lake.

After dinner, everyone started to pack ready to depart in the morning. Some of the locals needed help setting up email addresses and Facebook accounts.

The leadership team relaxed over dinner after a busy expedition so far. Unfortunately, the container hadn’t arrived yet, despite our best efforts –we had visited the customs office and everything was ready. The plan was to go to the Lake and wait for news. If the container arrived by Friday, we could return for the day to empty it.

Day 14: Wednesday 7th August 2013 Another early start, with everyone packing their bags in preparation for our departure. Time to have a final look at the work done – classrooms and chalkboards painted, resources refreshed and one classroom completely updated with new resources.

All had gone to plan and we had completed everything that we had set out to do.

It was time for our farewell meeting, so we all met up in one of the classrooms. There were various speeches of thanks – to the Masasa teachers and students for looking after us so well and for making us feel at home. Lizzie thanked us for our hard work on the project and the progress that had been made. She also reflected on the impact that our partnership has had on the life of the teachers and students and their examination success.

Lizzie also gave thanks for the money and items that have been sent from Holmfirth. We accepted those thanks on behalf of all those who have supported our numerous fund-raising events or have supported financially with non-uniform days and sponsorship.

We also gave gifts to the teachers who helped us the most. Below Mary and Zenga received their electric cookers.

For a teacher in Malawi, with an income of about £35 per week, the only way they could normally afford something like this would be by paying instalments over two years. After our meeting, we were ready to leave. The bus was loaded with all our bags, with a final ‘Goodbye’ we climbed aboard and set off for the lake.

After a brief stop at the bank to pay some money into the school’s account, we finally set off for Kande Beach on Lake Malawi. We settled into the lodges and took in the view – the clear blue sky, white sandy beach with waves crashing on the beach.

After lunch in the café, everyone relaxed on the beach, catching some rays, reading books, chatting, sleeping, burying the leader! A bit of time to re-charge the batteries

Later in the day, news arrived that the container was due on Friday – Thursday was a Malawi National holiday, so fingers were crossed for Friday. We also heard news of a fire at Nairobi Airport in the International Terminal and that the airport was closed. Fortunately, we have 5 or 6 days before we pass through, so hopefully it’ll be open by the weekend.

Day 15: Thursday 8th August 2013

An early start for some, to take in the sunrise over Lake Malawi. Today was planned to be a complete rest day, with everyone choosing how they wanted to spend the day. Most spent the morning on the beach. It was planned to have a hog roast for dinner, so the pig was prepared in the morning

Some ordered themselves a breakfast. By mid-morning, the pig was being cooked and was looking good.

Some chose to take the 30 minute walk to the tarmac road and the shops and stalls. It was a very hot day and little protection from the Sun. Once at the stalls, we looked for local food – cream filled donuts for10p, various samosas, fried plantain and Irish potato chips cooked in a sink – with charcoal burner underneath.

It was a very busy market with lots going on. Some stocked up on biscuits, snacks and drinks. Some bough souvenirs from that different stalls. The road in front of the stalls is the main M5 road that follows the line of the lake.

Once everyone had finished shopping and had their lunch, we sorted some local transport to take us back to the Kande Beach Resort. It was then back to the beach for more chilling by the Lake.

Despite the reminders about sunscreen, one or two ended up with interesting tan patterns. Everyone seemed to enjoy their day at the beach.

As the sun set, the hog roast was ready, so the meat was stripped off the bones and shared out. One or two had alternatives from the cafe. This was the first day of the expedition when we were not travelling of doing activities, so it was nice to be able to relax and take time to appreciate the experience.

Day 15: Friday 9th August 2013 Great news – an early text advised us that the container had arrived at the School. … and another cracking sunrise – it was going to be a good day. The plan was to have a day trip back to Masasa CDSS to unload the container and then return back to the Lake ready for the journey south towards Lilongwe. Then the bad news – our bus driver had been in an accident and couldn’t drive us back to Mzuzu.

We waited patiently as the transport team tried to find alternate transport. By 7.30am, the replacement buses arrived and we were on the road, unfortunately, one bus was short of fuel and was delayed as the driver hunted for roadside sellers to top up his tanks. By 10am we arrived back at the school to see the waiting container.

With the Customs Officers in attendance, it was time to break open the seal. After a short struggle, an angle grinder was borrowed and the seal broken. The crane arrived to move the container onto the concrete blocks.

Once in place, a quick ‘official’ photo ready to open the doors and reveal the contents.

The container was loaded are CART (Christian African Relief Trust) in Huddersfield in April. Since one of our team put the last box onto the container, they had the honour of taking the first box off.

A large crowd started to gather and they were formed into four lines to sort the contents of the container.

There were educational items for the school, items for the communities of Katawa and Masasa and item for the new nursery and day care centre that Lizzie was going to set up. Many hands made light work and the container was emptied as quickly as it had been loaded.

The vehicles arrived to take away the items ready for distribution to those in need.

Each of the teachers was given a bike to help them get to work on time – some live over two hours walk way (only the headteacher can afford to run a car).

Punctuality is a problem at Masasa CDSS. Particularly the female staff struggle, often with a long walk, but also needing to sort out their own families and childcare arrangements. With school starting at 7.15am, it can be a very early start. With the container emptied and the items sorted, we made our final farewells to the friends we had made, then we climbed aboard the minibuses and returned to the Lake.

We bought charcoal on the way back and shopped for meat in Mzuzu, so our last meal by the lake was a barbeque. With the sound of the waves lapping on the sandy beach of the Lake only 20 metres away, we eat our dinner and chatted about the events of the day – from the problems of injured driver and fuel shortage to the excitement of unloading the container.

Day 17: Saturday 10th August 2013 Transport problems have been a common issue throughout the expedition and today was no exception. Transport team hit the phones again the sort out minibuses.

Eventually the problem was solved and we set off for Lilongwe at 10am. Stopping to shop for souvenirs at the stalls near Kande Beach, there was some tough haggling taking place.

There was time for a lunch break at Nkhotatkota. Everyone dispersed in small groups to find lunch and shop for more souvenirs and snacks.

There was plenty of time to look out the window at the sights of the lake passing by. The M5 road along the lake is the second main road north – the M1 being the other. By 4pm we had made it to Salima and turned west for the 93km drive to Lilongwe.

Accommodation had been booked and we arrived at the Chimbula Lodge. However, after much discussion, we realised that we were at the wrong place – we wanted the Chimbula Hotel. After a short journey, we arrived at the Crown Hotel – it had changed hands and been re-named since the guide book had been published. We quickly settled in for our final night in Malawi.

Day 18: Sunday 11th August 2013 Everyone was down early for breakfast and packed and ready to leave by 9am. We stopped at the souvenir market in Lilongwe. The sellers are a little more assertive and it can be a little intimidating, but our team held their own, with some great bargains achieved.

Then we took the final journey back to the airport and were soon unloaded and passing through the security checks to get into the airport. It seemed to take ages to check-in and all went fine – apart from the Outlook Leader, Pete. There was a problem with his ticket.

We assumed it would be sorted, but as we passed through the final bag check, we received news that Pete would not be travelling back with us. We boarded the plane and took off. Arriving at Nairobi Airport we could see the fire damage to the terminal.

With no access to the Terminal, there were massive Marquees erected – complete with chandeliers. We were first moved to the Kenyan Airways tent, before moving to the KLM tent. We had a 6 hour layover, but the seats were comfy and the time seemed to pass quite quickly.

Communication wasn’t good, but eventually we got the message that our flight was due and we congregated ready to go to the plane. Soon we were on our way around the corner to the plane, walking up the stairs at the rear to get on the plane.

We were soon airborne and heading north. The TV screen entertainment system kept some occupied, while we had various meals and drinks. Before long, the lights were dimmed and some managed to grab a few hours sleep.

Day 19: Monday 12th August 2013 We arrive at Schiphol Airport in the early hours. We had a short time to explore and shop before going to the departure gate. We were in time to see our bags being loaded onto the plane. Next, on to security checks.

Most passed through without any problems, but one was held up as their bag was searched – a penknife, aerosol and lighter were confiscated.

We left Manchester in a rain storm, and returned to one. We were met by Steve from Outlook who welcomed us back and collected the kit we had taken with us. Soon we were on the coach heading back to School.

Finally we arrived at school to be greeted by our families. Lots of smiling faces and a few tears as everyone was united again and started to exchange stories. Well done to everyone who took part – to the team who did a great job at the school and to the parents for all their support in making the expedition possible.

malawi expedition diary 2013

Documents

day expedition

group kit

long journey

buildup day

malawi expedition

long flight

manchester airport

designated day leader