Managing Mississippi Ponds and Small Lakes

A LANDOWNER’S GUIDE

Managing Mississippi Ponds and Small Lakes

A LANDOWNER’S GUIDE

CONTENTSSources of Assistance .................................................................................................................. 5 Planning .................................................................................................................................................................... 5 Management ............................................................................................................................................................. 5

Planning ..................................................................................................................................... 6 Setting Objectives .................................................................................................................................................... 6 Site ............................................................................................................................................................................. 6 Topography ............................................................................................................................................................... 7 Water Supply ............................................................................................................................................................ 7 Soil ............................................................................................................................................................................. 7 Permits ...................................................................................................................................................................... 8

Constructing ............................................................................................................................... 8 When To Build .......................................................................................................................................................... 8 Size ............................................................................................................................................................................ 8 Depth ........................................................................................................................................................................ 8 Dams ......................................................................................................................................................................... 9 Water Control Structures ........................................................................................................................................10 Banks ....................................................................................................................................................................... 10 Seepage ................................................................................................................................................................... 10 Pond Bottom ........................................................................................................................................................... 10

Stocking ................................................................................................................................... 11 Selecting a Supplier ................................................................................................................................................ 11 Stocking Options .................................................................................................................................................... 11

Managing .................................................................................................................................. 15 Fishing .................................................................................................................................................................... 15 Management Options ............................................................................................................................................ 16 Determining Fish Balance ...................................................................................................................................... 16Corrective Management Measures ........................................................................................................................ 17 Managing for Trophy Bass ..................................................................................................................................... 18 Crappie Management ............................................................................................................................................. 20

Controlling Aquatic Vegetation ................................................................................................. 20 Physical Control ..................................................................................................................................................... 20 Mechanical Control ................................................................................................................................................ 21 Biological Control ................................................................................................................................................... 21 Chemical Control .................................................................................................................................................... 23 Common Problem Plants ....................................................................................................................................... 25

Liming Ponds ............................................................................................................................ 26 What is alkalinity? .................................................................................................................................................. 26 What is the recommended alkalinity? .................................................................................................................. 26

Managing Mississippi Ponds and Small Lakes

A LANDOWNER’S GUIDE

What if alkalinity is less than 20 ppm? ................................................................................................................. 26 Soil Testing ............................................................................................................................................................. 26 Liming Agents ........................................................................................................................................................ 27 When To Apply ....................................................................................................................................................... 27 Lime Application .................................................................................................................................................... 27

To Fertilize or Not To Fertilize? ................................................................................................. 28 When Not To Fertilize ............................................................................................................................................ 29 When To Fertilize ................................................................................................................................................... 29 Type and Rate of Fertilizer .................................................................................................................................... 29 When To Apply Fertilizer ....................................................................................................................................... 30 How To Apply Fertilizer ......................................................................................................................................... 30 Important Points on Fertilization ......................................................................................................................... 31

Muddy Water ............................................................................................................................. 31

Feeding ..................................................................................................................................... 32

Drawdowns ............................................................................................................................... 32 Drawdown for Aquatic Weed Control ................................................................................................................... 32 Drawdown for Fish Management .......................................................................................................................... 33

Unexpected Fish Kills ................................................................................................................ 33 Oxygen Depletions and Pond Turnovers .............................................................................................................. 33 pH and Mineral Problems ...................................................................................................................................... 34 Infectious Diseases and Parasites .......................................................................................................................... 34 Fire Ants ................................................................................................................................................................. 35 Determining Factors in Fish Kills .......................................................................................................................... 35 Transporting and Shipping Samples ..................................................................................................................... 35

Attracting Fish .......................................................................................................................... 36 Trees as Fish Attractors ......................................................................................................................................... 36 Gravel Beds as Fish Attractors ............................................................................................................................... 36 Other Fish Attractors ............................................................................................................................................. 37

Renovating Ponds ..................................................................................................................... 37 What Is Rotenone? ................................................................................................................................................. 37 Preparing the Pond ................................................................................................................................................. 37 How To Apply Rotenone ........................................................................................................................................ 37 When To Restock .................................................................................................................................................... 38

Nuisance Species ....................................................................................................................... 38 Turtles ..................................................................................................................................................................... 38 Other Problem Animals ......................................................................................................................................... 39

Other Considerations ................................................................................................................ 39 Private Pond Consultants ...................................................................................................................................... 39 Making Money from Your Pond ............................................................................................................................ 40

For More Information ............................................................................................................... 40

Farm Pond Management Calendar ............................................................................................. 41

Farm Pond Harvest Record ........................................................................................................ 42

Appendix A: Common or Problem Plants .................................................................................... 43

You must decide before construction begins how the pond will be used so you can cre-ate a proper management plan for the pond. Keep in mind that all objectives cannotbe met in a single pond, and compromises may be necessary. Landowners with multi-ple ponds may consider applying different management plans on different ponds.

After the pond is completed, success or failure depends on using practices to estab-lish and maintain good fish populations. Proper stocking with the correct speciesand numbers of fish, stocking at the proper time of year, a balanced harvest, waterquality management, and aquatic weed control are basics you should understand.Many unmanaged ponds could produce many more pounds of fish than they nowproduce if good management practices were followed.

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Ponds and small lakes are abundant in Mississippi and are favorite fishing places for Mississippi anglers. A pond that consistently produces good catches of fish is a result of proper planning,construction, and management. Poor planning, improper construction, or lack ofproper management results in lakes and ponds that are relatively unproductive orproblematic.

It is critical that as a landowner you clearly define your objectives in the beginning,before the first soil is moved.

Mississippi has more than 160,000 water bodies less than 100 acres

totaling more than 190,000 acres.

Do you want to catch good numbers andsizes of bass and bream? Or do you want

trophy bass? Maybe you prefer to catch bigbream? Or just channel catfish? How muchwill the pond be fished? Will the pond beused for purposes other than fishing?

SOURCES OF ASSISTANCEIf you need assistance in planning a new pond or in managing an old one, contact one of the following agen-cies or one of their field offices located throughout the state:

PlanningNATURAL RESOURCES CONSERVATION SERVICE100 West Capitol StreetSuite 1321, Federal BuildingJackson, MS 39269601/965-5196(District office in each county)www.ms.nrcs.usda.gov/

DEPARTMENT OF WILDLIFE, FISHERIES, AND AqUACULTUREMississippi State UniversityExtension ServiceBox 9690Mississippi State, MS 39762662/325-3174(Extension office in each county)www.msucares.com

ManagementMISSISSIPPI DEPARTMENT OF WILDLIFE, FISHERIES AND PARKS1505 Eastover Dr.Jackson, MS 39211-6374601/432-2200(Six district offices: Tupelo, Enid, Canton, Meridian, Magnolia, and Wiggins)

DEPARTMENT OF WILDLIFE, FISHERIES, AND AqUACULTUREMississippi State UniversityExtension ServiceBox 9690Mississippi State, MS 39762662/325-3174(Extension office in each county)www.msucares.com

NATURAL RESOURCES CONSERVATION SERVICE100 West Capitol StreetSuite 1321, Federal BuildingJackson, MS 39269601/965-5196(District office in each county)www.ms.nrcs.usda.gov/

All of the information contained in this guide and much more is at your fingertips at

www.MSUcares.com.

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PLANNINGSetting ObjectivesPerhaps the most important decision you make as apond owner is deciding what purposes the pond willserve. If the pond is to be used for something otherthan fishing – like irrigation, fire protection, swim-ming, wildlife habitat, livestock water supply, orhome cooling – these uses may require different de-sign considerations from those for fishing alone.Design of fishing ponds is described below.

Determine the species and sizes of fish youwould like to catch in the planning stages of thepond. is is called the “management objective.”Stocking and management differ based on this ob-jective. Some pond owners prefer bream fishing andmanage the pond to produce a good crop of largebream. Some prefer a good all-around fishery.Many want only a chance at catching trophy bass,

while others are happy with quality catfish. Usually,a pond can be managed successfully for only onemanagement objective at a time.

SiteSite selection is extremely important. Natural Re-sources Conservation Service (NRCS) personnel canassist in site selection, soil suitability, engineeringsurvey, and design. ey can estimate the cost of theearthwork, make quality control checks during con-struction, and provide information on other aspectsof planning, design, and construction. is serviceis free and may save you money in future recon-struction costs needed to fix a poorly designed orsited pond. Also, be sure to request AgricultureHandbook Number 590, “Ponds – Planning, Design,and Construction” from your NRCS office.

Before you select your pond site, consider theshape of the land (topography), water supply, and

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!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Figure 1. Considerations for pond site selection. Pond A is in full view of a highway that invites tres-

passers; runoff from the vegetable garden may enter the pond; and the emergency spillway flows to-

wards the barn. Pond B is in a better location, since it is not visible from the road, nor are there issues

with runoff or water release.

The first step in a successful pond construction project should be to contact the Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS).The NRCS office nearest you can help with site selection, soil testing, pond sizing, and other construction considerations.

soil type. If possible, consider more than one loca-tion, and study each one to select the most practical,attractive, and economical site. Consider potentialproblems, such as runoff from agriculture, past landuses, or potential to attract trespassers (Figure 1).

TopographyConsider topography first, because it directly affectsbuilding costs and management. Place the pondwhere enough water can be held with the leastamount of earth fill. A good site is usually one whereyou can build a dam across a narrow section of asteep valley and where the slope of the valley floorlets you flood a large area. Such sites are ideal andminimize areas of shallow water (water less than 2feet deep). Avoid large areas of shallow water be-cause they become too shallow to use in late sum-mer and fall dry periods, and they encourage thegrowth of undesirable aquatic plants. Likewise,steep sloping valleys may make the pond too deep,which may lead to poor fish production and possiblefish kills. Also avoid locationswith constantly flowingcreeks or streams, as theseflush the pond and make itdifficult to manage pondwater chemistry.

Water SupplyWater availability should beadequate, but not excessive,and may be provided bysprings, wells, or surfacerunoff. Check well water forpotentially high levels of dis-solved substances, such asiron, which may cause prob-lems in the pond. Also, welland spring water may be lowin oxygen when it is pumpedor flows out of the ground.Do not use standing surfacewater (such as pumping fromcreeks and sloughs) to fillponds if you can avoid it, be-cause it is a source of un-wanted fish, parasites, andfish diseases.

For ponds where surfacerunoff is the main source ofwater, the contributingdrainage area should be largeenough to maintain a suit-

able water level during dry periods. e drainagearea should not be so large, though, that expensiveoverflow structures are needed and water exchangeoccurs too frequently. As a rule, a pond should have5 to 10 acres of drainage area for each acre of im-pounded water in Mississippi. e amount of runofffrom a watershed depends on local climate, topogra-phy, soil type, and plant cover.

SoilSuitable soil is one of the main factors in selecting apond site. e soil should contain a layer of clay orsilty clay material that water will not seep through.Sandy clays are also usually satisfactory. e moreclay in the soil, the better it will hold water. At least20 percent clay is necessary to hold water (Figure 2).To determine soil suitability, take soil borings at fre-quent intervals and have them analyzed. e Natu-ral Resources Conservation Service office can assistwith this evaluation. Not evaluating the soil prop-erly could result in a pond that will not hold water.

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Figure 2. A soil triangle can be used to determine the type of soil present in potential pond

sites. To use the triangle, the percent of each component (clay, sand, silt) must be deter-

mined from a sample. The soil type is where the lines for percent clay, sand, and silt meet.

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It is much easier to check the soil for lime re-quirements and to lime the pond bottom just afterconstruction before the pond begins to fill withwater (see section on Liming Ponds in this publica-tion). Your Extension county agent can advise youhow to collect soil samples for analysis to determinethe lime requirements (of the pond bottom) for thesite you have selected. e State Soil Testing Labcharges a small fee for this analysis.

PermitsMississippi Law requires that anyone proposing tobuild, modify, or repair a dam must get written au-thorization from the Mississippi Department of En-vironmental Quality (MDEQ) before beginningconstruction. Written authorization is not requiredif the dam is less than 8 feet high, impounds lessthan 25 acre-feet of water at the top of dam, or thedam does not impound a watercourse with a contin-uous flow of water (as long as failure of the damwould not threaten public safety downstream). Asurface water im-poundment permitmay be required,even if written au-thorization tobuild the dam isnot required. eimpoundment per-mit has a fee of$10 and is good for10 years. Penal-ties may be im-posed for failure tofile. For more in-formation contactthe MDEQ DamSafety Division at(601) 961-5061 oron the Web atwww.deq.state.ms.us and click on the link titledDam Safety.

If the construction is expected to disturb be-tween 1 and 5 acres (construction of the dam andarea excavated for dirt used in the dam), then smallconstruction permit conditions will apply. If theconstruction is expected to disturb more than 5acres, then a large construction permit will be re-quired. For more information contact the MDEQConstruction and Building Materials Branch at(601) 961-5169 or on the Web at www.deq.state.ms.us and click on the link titled EnvironmentalPermits Division.

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Landowners are also urged to check with theU.S. Army Corps of Engineers to see if a 404 permitwill be required. To find your local district contactinformation, go to the Web at http://www.usace.army.mil/CECW/Pages/cecwo_reg.aspx.

CONSTRUCTINGWhen To BuildYou can build a pond any time of the year, but sum-mer is usually the best because weather and soil con-ditions allow use of heavy equipment. Fall andwinter rainfall fills the new pond and lets you stockfish at the right times.

SizeDetermine pond size by your needs and desires. Big-ger is not always better. Small ponds (1 to 3 acres)provide enjoyable fishing if you follow good plan-ning and proper management guidelines. Largerponds and lakes provide many other uses, such as

water supply, lim-ited irrigation,swimming, boating,and hunting, andthey are less suscep-tible to water levelchanges. For sur-face runoff ponds,use the area of landthat flows into thepond to determinethe pond’s size (seeWater Supply). Ingeneral, 5 to 10acres of drainagearea is required foreach surface acre ofpond water.

DepthPonds in Mississippi should have an average depthof about 5 to 6 feet and be no more than 10 to 12feet deep. About half of the pond should be in waterthat is 4 to 5 feet deep. is lets fish forage on thebottom, even in summer when low oxygen concen-trations are common in deeper water, while main-taining enough depth to sustain the fish duringdrought. But about 20 percent of the pond bottomshould be at least 6 feet deep to provide winterrefuge and summer refuge in extremely dry years.During summer, evaporation can reduce water levels

Sowing a temporary cover of browntop millet (25pounds per acre broadcast from May to July) or win-ter wheat (90 pounds per acre broadcast from Au-gust to November) protects exposed surfaces andprovides wildlife food and cover.

Lime, fertilize, and seed the dam with an appro-priate grass as soon as construction is complete. We recommend mulching the dam and other slopingareas. It is very important to prevent erosion of the dam.

Complete the pond in summer before stockingfish in the fall. If practical, do not let the pond fillwith water until just before stocking. is preventsthe pond from becoming contaminated with un-wanted fish species, lets grass cover the pond bottom,and helps prevent muddy water.

Do not let trees or shrubs grow on the dam, sincethey weaken the dam and increase the likelihood ofleaking or failure. But if large trees are growing onan older pond dam, don’t remove them, becausetheir decaying root systems may weaken the dam.

A properly maintained

dam can be mowed, front

and back. NEVER let trees

become established

on new dams.

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at a rate of up to ½ inch per day, and ponds may lose2 feet or more in water depth. e pond banksshould drop quickly to at least 3 feet deep to mini-mize risk of aquatic plants becoming established.Deep ponds are not necessary for productive fish-eries and may lead to water quality problems, suchas low dissolved oxygen, which can kill fish. MostMississippi ponds have low oxygen levels at depthsgreater than 4 feet in summer.

DamsDams should be at least 8 to 12 feet wide at the top,depending on the height of the dam. Dams less than12 feet high require an 8-foot top width. Dams be-tween 12 and 15 feet high require a 10-foot topwidth, and those higher than 15 feet require a 12-foot top width. Dams with tops wider than the re-quired minimum are much easier to maintain. Ifyou plan to use the dam as a road, it should be atleast 16 feet wide across the top.

In many areas of Mississippi, soil types are suchthat dams must be cored with clay to prevent seep-age. e slope of the dam should be no steeper than3:1 on the waterside. On the backside, a 4:1 slopelets you safely maintain the vegetation on the dam.For example, a dam with a 3:1 slope will have a 1-foot rise for every 3 feet of horizontal measurement.

Establish suitable perennial vegetation on thedam as soon as possible to prevent erosion, muddywater, and maintenance problems. Non-nativegrasses such as Bermuda and Bahia are commonlyplanted because they estab-lish a sod quickly and toleratefrequent mowing to just a fewinches in height. A good,deep-rooted native grass(such as switchgrass or bigbluestem) is an alternativeperennial cover that providesbetter wildlife habitat, re-quires less mowing, and toler-ates drought better thannon-native grasses. If nativegrasses are established ascover on the dam, do notmow them shorter than 6inches in height.

If dam construction iscompleted before or after therecommended planting dates,plant a temporary cover tolimit soil erosion until thepermanent cover establishes. Figure 3. Diagram of recommended pond levee and water control structures.

Drain valve Clay core

Bottom withdrawal device

Standpipe

Drain

Cementsupportslab

Anti-seep collar

Water Control StructuresA combination drain and overflow pipe (Figure 3), as well as an emergency spillway, are necessary forgood management. It is very important that youplace the drainpipe on the pond bottom so you cancompletely drain the pond. Controlling the waterlevel is important for weed control and fisheriesmanagement. A drain is necessary to managethe pond efficiently. e overflow pipe is the out-let for normal water flow through the pond. eemergency spillway is an area lower than the top ofthe dam on one side of the dam to safely release ex-cessive runoff from heavy rainfall.

Overflow and drainpipes may be corrugatedmetal, aluminum, steel, or polyvinyl chloride (PVC).Some materials are more durable than others andmay be preferred. For example, PVC pipe, althoughinexpensive, is prone to breakage and vandalism. Besure the pipe meets the standards for use in a ponddam. You can add drains to existing ponds, but youwill need professional assistance.

It is also a good idea to fit a larger pipe over thestandpipe, starting 18 inches off the bottom and ex-tending 12 inches above the surface (Figure 4). ispipe will draw water from the deeper areas of thepond, where there is no oxygen. During periods ofwater flow through the pond, this improves thewater quality in the pond, increases usable habitat,and reduces the risk of a fish kill. e outside pipemust be at least one and a half times the interiorwidth of the standpipe to allow for maximum flow.

BanksBanks should be moderately sloped until reaching awater depth of 3 feet near the shoreline to eliminateshallow water areas around the pond edge whereaquatic plants often start. Use a 3:1 slope wherepossible (the depth increases 1 foot for every threefeet away from shore) until reaching the minimumdepth. Cattle may cause bank erosion and muddywater. Fence the pond to limit or prevent damage by livestock.

SeepageSeepage in new ponds sometimes develops. Oftenyou can correct seepage by draining the pond andcompacting the bottom. If the bottom soils havemarginal water-holding capacity, a blanket of clay or other soil sealant packed with a sheepsfoot rollermay reduce the seepage. If the seepage problem per-sists, contact any Natural Resources ConservationService office or Mississippi Department of Wildlife,Fisheries and Parks district office.

Pond BottomMany pond sites have trees in the basin, most ofwhich should be cut and salvaged or piled andburned. It is acceptable to leave some trees, bushes,and brush piles. During construction, decide whichtrees to leave, clear unwanted trees, and develop fishattractors. Such underwater cover provides habitatfor certain aquatic organisms fish eat, as well as coverfor game fish. Be sure you can find these areas afterthey are flooded.

Usually 10 to 25 percent ofthe pond bottom should havesome tree cover (fish attractors)where possible. It is importantto leave tree cover in theright areas. Leave bushes andtrees in deeper water areas,along creek runs, and in themiddle of the pond or lake.Leave trees in small clumps. Cut standing trees about 2 feetabove the normal water level,and anchor brushy tops to thebase of the tall stumps. esestumps will serve as permanentmarkers to brush top locationsand avoid the dangers of fallinglimbs in later years. Do notleave trees or bushes in shallowareas, narrow coves, or alongthe bank, because these areas

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Figure 4. Schematic of a bottom draw-off device used to remove deep, low oxygen

water, which increases water quality and available habitat.

Selecting a SupplierAs a pond owner, you face decisions in selecting afish supplier. Here are some questions to ask beforemaking an informed decision:

• Is there a warranty on the fish? Keep inmind that fish may be delivered alive but maydie several days later because of hauling stress,insufficient tempering to the pond water, or dis-ease. Get it in writing!

• Does the supplier produce the fish or buythem from a third party? Vendors who pro-duce their own fish are more likely to know thehealth history of the fish.

• What species and sizes of fish do they sup-ply? Not all suppliers sell all species of fish, andthe sizes, strains, or reproductive capacity mightnot be right for your pond.

• References! Ask to contact some of theirsatisfied customers! Check out the companywith the Better Business Bureau from its state.Remember, commercial fish producers arein the business of selling fish. It is not inyour best interest to get your stocking rec-ommendations from them. Your county Ex-tension agent, local Mississippi Department ofWildlife, Fisheries and Parks biologist, specialistfrom the Wildlife & Fisheries Department atMississippi State University, or NRCS biologistcan assist you with stocking plans free of charge.

Stocking OptionsBass and Bream CombinationsA healthy pond has a balance between predator andprey populations. In ponds of at least one acre,largemouth bass and bluegill provide this balancebetter than any other species. You can add a fewother species, specifically redear sunfish (shell-cracker or chinquapin), channel catfish, triploid,grass carp, and fathead minnows, to provide a vari-ety of fishing opportunities. ese species, whenstocked at recommended rates and managed prop-erly, can provide years of good fishing (Table 1).

You can stock channel catfish with bass andbream or alone, but do not stock other species of cat-fish in ponds. Crappie are never recommendedfor small lakes and ponds less than 50 acres be-cause they tend to overpopulate, resulting in apond full of small, skinny crappie, bream, andbass. Crappie compete with bass for food, andshould not be stocked into lakes less than 500 acresif trophy bass fishing is the desired objective. If you

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will become difficult to fish and may develop aquaticvegetation problems. Too much cover in shallowwater makes it hard for bass to feed on the bream.You should be able to navigate the entire shorelineby boat.

If there are no trees or brush to leave for cover,you can establish fish attractors during pond con-struction. See the section on Fish Attractors formore detailed information. Prepare the pond bot-tom during construction because equipment andlabor are available then. Use excess earth from construction to make underwater contours, piers,and islands. Most landowners are unwilling to drainthe pond later for necessary bottom improvements,so it is important to complete all work during con-struction.

Lime the pond bottom after all other diggingand dirt work are complete. Liming is extremely important and is discussed in greater detail later. Before flooding, prepare gravel fish spawningbeds, and build wooden and/or earthen piers.Plant wheat, rye, millet, or other suitablegrasses in the pond bottom to produce lots ofaquatic life when the pond is filled and to re-duce erosion and siltation.

STOCKINGStock ponds with fish only from reliable fishhatcheries to prevent bringing in undesirablefish species, parasites, or diseases. Consult thedistrict offices of the Mississippi Department ofWildlife, Fisheries and Parks, your Natural Re-sources Conservation Service office, or your countyExtension office for a list of licensed game fishhatcheries in Mississippi. Ask for Publication 2525,“Sport Fish Suppliers and Stocking Guidelines forStocking Mississippi Ponds” available online athttp://msucares.com/wildfish/ fisheries/farm-pond/pdfs/hatcheries.pdf from the MississippiState University Extension Service.

wish to stock crappie in lakes larger than 50 acres,consult a fisheries biologist for recommendations. If you have a pond with crappie already established,the two options are to renovate the pond and startover (see the section on Pond Renovation), or tomanage the pond for crappie. For more informationon managing for crappie, see the section on CrappieManagement.

Largemouth bass are predatory and eat a varietyof foods. eir diet includes small fish, frogs, craw-fish, and insects. Largemouth bass are well adaptedto ponds and reproduce successfully, usually spawn-ing only once a year. ey grow rapidly in pondswhere food is plentiful, generally reaching sexualmaturity and spawning at one year of age. In thespring, when water temperatures reach 60 °F, ma-ture males fan out depressions or “nests” on thepond bottom. Females lay their eggs in the nest. e male fertilizes the eggs, and they usually hatchwithin four days.

e two strains of largemouth bass commonlystocked in ponds and lakes are the northern large-mouth bass (native to all parts of Mississippi) andthe Florida largemouth bass (not native). Crossesbetween these two, called hybrids, are also available.Although some research has been conducted to de-termine which, if any, of these largemouth bassstrains or hybrids are best for stocking farm pondsand small lakes, no conclusive answer has been

found. A few observations, based partly on scienceand partly on field experience, are described belowto help you decide which largemouth bass strain tostock. Your ultimate success in managing yourbass depends more on the quality of your man-agement program (including bass harveststrategy) than on strain selection. • Northern, Florida, and hybrid largemouth bass

have all been used with success in Mississippi.e Florida strain and hybrid have the greatestgenetic potential to attain trophy size. Evidenceexists that the Florida strain is, on average,harder to catch than northern or hybrid bass.

• Many hatcheries no longer maintain pureFlorida strains, but rather hybrids with varyingpercentages of mixed northern/Florida genes.

• It is not known at this time whether all hybridsare equivalent in growth and catchability. For ex-ample, a hybrid that is 50 percent Florida and 50percent northern MAY perform differently froma hybrid that is 25:75.

• F1 hybrid bass are first generation hybrids(50:50) and may experience enhanced growth.e offspring, though, are likely to experiencereduced growth as compared to their parentsand possibly lower than the pure strains.

• e strains usually have no cost difference.

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Stocking Recommendations for Ponds One Acre or LargerIt is important to stock a pond in the proper orderand with the recommended numbers to achieve abalanced fish population. To begin, choose the de-sired stocking combination from Table 1, and stockthose species as follows:

• Stock fingerling bream (bluegill and redearsunfish), catfish, triploid grass carp, andfathead minnows in the fall or winter. epond should be at least half full and filling.- Stock 500 bream per acre. is can be all

bluegill, or if desired, 350 bluegill and 150 redear sunfish.

- If you want channel catfish in your pond, stock at 50 catfish per acre.

- Stock five triploid grass carp per acre to avoid weed problems. For lakes larger than 10 acres that have much open water, stock three grass carp per acre.

- Fathead minnows can be stocked at 3 pounds per acre with bluegill in the fall or winter to provide additional prey (optional).

• Stock 50 largemouth bass per acre the fol-lowing spring when the bream and fatheadminnows are ready to spawn. is ensuresthat small bream and minnows are available forthe small bass.- e stocking ratio of bream to bass should be

10 to 1.

Bluegill and redear sunfish fingerlings stocked in thefall and winter will spawn the next spring. Stocklargemouth bass fingerlings in the spring to coincidewith the first bream spawn. ey feed on the smallbream, preventing an overpopulation of bream. Fat-head minnows provide supplemental winter foragefor largemouth bass and bream. If timing is suchthat you cannot stock the pond in this order,consult a fisheries biologist to discuss an alter-native stocking strategy that might work. Sinceall situations are different, no single recommenda-tion easily applies to all cases.

Bluegill (commonly called bream) and redear sunfish(shellcracker, chinquapin) are also well adapted toponds and eat a variety of foods. When small, theyeat microscopic plants and animals. As they grow,their diet changes to include insects, snails, craw-fish, and small fish. If enough food is available, thesefish grow rapidly, reaching sexual maturity at oneyear. When water temperatures reach 70 to 75 °F inthe spring, redear sunfish begin spawning, followedby bluegill, when temperatures reach 80 °F. Bluegillmay spawn several times in one season, while redearsunfish normally spawn only once or twice. Breamspawn in groups, and their collections of nests arecalled spawning “beds.”

e two strains of bluegill commonly stocked inMississippi are native bluegill and a Florida straincalled coppernose bluegill. Biologically, the two arevery similar, as are general growth rates and othercharacteristics. Opinions vary regarding the prosand cons of stocking coppernose instead of nativebluegill, and many questions have yet to be an-swered. Both are readily available from hatcheries inMississippi. Ultimate performance of thebluegill, regardless of strain, depends more onthe quality of your management program thanon strain stocked.

Size of the pond has a direct influence on futurefishing potential, but limitations are very few if youhave reasonable expectations. A farm pondstocked with bream and bass should be at leastone acre in size, preferably larger. Althoughsmall ponds can normally provide unlimited breamfishing, there is a potential for over harvesting thebass in ponds less than one acre. See the section onSmall Pond Recommendations for information onmanaging ponds less than one acre.

13

If you plan to immediately implement and continuously maintain a fertilization program, follow the fertilized stocking

rates in Table 1 for quicker results and to avoid bream crowding.

You can stock a properly fertilized pond with 1,000bream per acre in the fall, either all bluegill or 700bluegill and 300 redear sunfish, followed by 100largemouth bass per acre the following spring. Youcan stock up to 100 catfish per acre in fertilizedponds. Keep triploid grass carp stocking rates atfive per acre for weed prevention.

After you complete the initial stocking of fin-gerling fish, do not add any fish to the pond except on the recommendation of a fisheriesbiologist.

Adding fish to the pond year after year can leadto overcrowding and stunted fish. is has ruined thefishing in many ponds in Mississippi. With propermanagement, a correctly stocked pond generally re-sults in a balanced fish population, ensuring goodfishing for years to come. You can restock catfishafter you remove more than half of the fishfrom the original stocking. Remember to stocklarger (8- to 10-inch) catfish to avoid feedingcatfish to your bass in established ponds.Stocking Options for Ponds Less than One Acree bass-bream stocking combination tends to beless successful in ponds less than one acre in size be-cause bass are easy to overharvest and the bream be-come too abundant to grow to a harvestable size.But other options are available. ese are catfish-only and hybrid-bream combinations.

Catfish-only PondsChannel catfish grow well alone, with few diseaseproblems, stocked at 100 to 150 per acre. Whenstocked alone, fish grow faster with supplementalfeeding. Natural foods include decaying organic mat-ter, plant material, crawfish, small fish, and insects.e relatively low stocking rate (100 to 150 per acre)ensures good growth to a harvestable size in a rea-sonably short time. You do not want to encouragecatfish spawning because of potential crowding anddisease problems. To control the possibility ofunwanted spawning, stock 25 largemouth bassper acre to the ponds to eliminate any finger-lings less than 6 inches. You can restock catfishafter you remove more than half of the fish from theoriginal stocking. Remember to stock larger (8-to 10-inch) catfish to avoid feeding catfish toyour bass in established ponds.

One of the most common mistakes pondowners make is stocking too many catfish. Recre-ational catfish ponds are intended to be much less in-tensively managed than their commercial

counterparts. In general, most farm ponds can sup-port no more than 500 pounds of fish per acre with-out supplemental aeration. When you stock and growcatfish to catchable sizes (1 to 3 pounds), you exceedthe limit when more than about 150 catfish are pres-ent. Attempts to exceed this natural limit in farmponds without supplemental aeration and feedingusually cause stress and disease in the catfish, andoxygen can be depleted to low levels where total fishkills may occur.

Hybrid Sunfish PondsHybrid sunfish are a good option for small ponds be-cause they grow quickly, especially when fed, andthey are easy to catch. e most commonly used hy-brid sunfish results from crossing male bluegill withfemale green sunfish. ese hybrids are 85 to 95percent males, readily accept artificial feed, andgrow faster than bluegill or redear sunfish undersimilar conditions.

Successful hybrid sunfish ponds require that youcarefully follow the stocking rates and harvest rec-ommendations. You can get best growth by stock-ing 750 hybrids and 50 bass per acre and thenfeeding a commercially-prepared feed of at least 28percent protein. Commercial catfish pellets are themost economical feed. Never give the fish morefood than they will eat in 5 to 10 minutes, andadjust the amount as fish grow. If fish do not eatall the feed offered in that time, you probably areoverfeeding and wasting feed and money.

A demand-type or automatic fish feeder is agood investment. One problem with hand-feeding isthat someone has to be there to do it! Most peopletire of the novelty of feeding fish within the firstseason, and then the fish may become neglected. In-stalling a feeder ensures that the fish receive feed ona regular basis, regardless of your schedule andavailability.

Never stock hybrid sunfish into ponds containing other fish, and never stock themin combination with other bream species.

Hybrid bream will not produce enough offspringto yield good bass growth rates, and they will cross-breed with other sunfish species and create undesir-able offspring. Hybrid sunfish should only bestocked in small ponds following the exact recom-mendations found in this section.

Always stock hybrids in combination with apredator fish because, contrary to popular be-lief, they are not sterile. Most hybrid populations

14

for more information on timing of management activities.

Fishing Fishing and harvest are critical to good pond man-agement. To ensure a balanced fish population,release all of the bass that are caught the firstand second year of fishing. In most cases, afterthe first year of fishing you can remove as manybream as you desire without harming the popula-tion.

By the third year, harvest 15 pounds of bassper acre per year from ponds that are not fer-tilized. In fertilized ponds, this number will need tobe doubled. Harvest primarily small bass less than13 inches, and release intermediate-sized bass (14to 18 inches). is will ensure rapid growth of bass,an adequate number of bass for reproduction, aswell as control of the bream. Underharvest of bassleads to bass stockpiling and slow growth of bass,which is a common problem in Mississippi ponds.

The biggest mistake most pond owners make in managing their ponds

is they do not harvest enough bass and bream from the pond.

This leads to crowding and slow growth of their bass.

If you want quality bream fishing, remove45 pounds of bream per acre per year.

Although less common than bass underharvest,removing too many bass can lead to bream crowd-ing. When bass are overharvested, the remainingbass can no longer eat enough bream, and the breambecome overcrowded and grow very slowly. Oncebream become overcrowded, bass reproduction is re-duced or stopped completely.

Keep a record of fish harvested, and askothers who fish the pond to tell you the num-ber and size (at least length) of bass and breamthey remove from the pond. A record sheet isprovided on page 42 of this publication.

If the pond is also stocked with channel catfish,spread the catfish harvest over three to four years.

15

are 85 to 95 percent males and thus have lower re-productive potential. ey do reproduce, and theywill overpopulate unless largemouth bass have beenstocked with them. Hybrid sunfish offspring do notshare the same qualities as their parents and are notdesirable.

When stocked with bass, most hybrid offspringdo not survive because the bass quickly eat them.is prevents overpopulation and provides condi-tions for best growth of the originally stocked hy-brids. Hybrid sunfish are best suited to ponds of 3acres or less.

It is important to remember that hybridsunfish management is for production of bigbream, and bass growth will be less than desir-able. Bass are stocked primarily as a managementtool to eat the hybrid offspring. Return all bassthat are caught to the pond to maintain highpredator numbers. Also, this is a “put and take”fishery, meaning that hybrids are grown, caught,and replaced by other hybrids stocked in futureyears. In this sense, hybrid ponds are more like cat-tle feed-lot operations than some other, more tradi-tional pond management options.

Periodic restocking is necessary to sustaina fishery for more than a few years. Record thenumber of hybrids removed and plan to restockwhen 50 to 70 percent of the originally stocked fishhave been caught and removed. At restockingtime, stock larger hybrid sunfish fingerlings (3 to 4 inches), since they are less likely to beeaten by the bass than smaller fish. Restock atthe same rates as the initial stocking. You may wantto check with local suppliers before starting a hybridbream pond to make sure larger fingerlings are avail-able. If they are not, you will need to drain or poi-son the pond and start over when fishing qualitydeclines.

For more information on managing hybrid sun-fish, request Extension Publication 1893, “ManagingHybrid Sunfish in Mississippi Farm Ponds,” fromyour county Extension agent.

MANAGINGYou can enjoy good fishing for years if you follow asound pond management program. Building thepond properly, stocking the correct species at rec-ommended rates, and controlling weeds are neces-sary first steps for proper pond management.Continued good fishing depends on harvestingthe correct number, sizes, and species of fisheach year. See the Farm Pond Calendar on page 41

Channel catfish may reproduce, but offspring usu-ally do not survive because of bass predation. Re-stock with channel catfish when 60 percent of theoriginally stocked catfish have been removed. In abass and bream pond, it is necessary to restockwith 8- to 10-inch channel catfish fingerlingsto ensure the bass do not quickly consumethese fingerlings. Do not overstock catfish, sinceoverstocking leads to poor growth and possible dis-ease problems as well as excessive competition withbream for food.

Management Options After the second year, you must decide the kind offishing experience you want the pond to provide. Abass-crowded condition commonly occurs inMississippi ponds where bass fishing is prima-rily catch and release. In such ponds, most basscaught are less than 12 inches long with poor bodycondition, and the bream are hand-sized and ingood condition. If you want large bream, a bass-crowded pond will produce these results (Figures 5and 6). If you want good fishing for both bass andbream, follow the harvest recom-mendations in the Fishing section.is management situation is suit-able for most ponds. Trophy bassfishing will require careful protec-tion of certain sizes of bass, usu-

16

ally through a protective slot size limit, and also har-vest of most of the smaller (less than 12 inches) bassto prevent them from becoming crowded (see thesection entitled Managing for Trophy Bass).

Determining Fish BalanceSeining – the use of a net to capture fish – is a quickand easy way to determine the condition of yourpond, and an investment in a good seine is highlyrecommended for all pond owners. A 30-foot seinethat is 6-feet deep and made of ¼-inch mesh workswell. You can purchase it from any net maker. At-tach the seine ends to wooden or metal poles tomake handling the seine much easier.

Check balance using a seine every year in late-May to July. During this period, both bass andbream have reproduced and the young are still smallenough to be caught effectively using the seine.

Fishing the seine is easy. You can use a “swing-ing gate” or perpendicular haul (Figure 7) in severalareas of the pond to capture young fish. Just makesure you keep the weighted line of the seine on thebottom at all times, or the fish will escape under the

Figure 5. Managing a pond to be bass-

crowded can produce trophy bream

(see Figure 6B).

!!!!!!!!!!

Figure 6. Management options for bass-bream ponds in Mississippi. A) Balanced bass-breampond with wide size ranges of both predator and prey. This scenario is best for good bass andbream fishing. B) Bass-crowded pond with many small, thin bass and few but large bream.The scenario provides fast action with small bass and extra large bream for the panfish enthu-siast. C) Bream crowded pond with no large bream and very few but large bass. This scenariocan lead to trophy bass, but requires additional management efforts to be successful.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Figure 7. Two easy seining techniques for determining bass and bream repro-

duction in ponds. Ponds should be assessed using a seine from late-May to July.

net. Make about five hauls around the pond, andthen compare your catch to Table 2 to determinethe condition of your pond.

You can also determine balance of bass andbream by close examination of your catch throughfishing. is is much easier if you keep good catchand harvest records throughout the year (see sampleharvest record on page 42). Make sure to use a vari-

17

Bass crowded pondsIf catching large bluegill is your objective, a basscrowded pond is the desirable situation. But if youwant large-sized bass, the following recommenda-tions may help you improve bass growth and size.

In one year, remove 35 pounds of bass per acrethat are less than 13 inches long. In a fertilizedpond, remove 50 pounds of bass less than 13 inches.

Return alllarger bass tothe pond. Re-assess thepond the fol-lowing year,and repeat in-tensive bassharvest as nec-essary. Whenannual balancechecks indicatethe pond isonce again inbalance, revertto harvestingbass andbream at thenormal recom-mended ratesdescribed pre-viously.

In rarecases, bream

can be eliminated from bass crowded ponds throughheavy predation. If seine sampling or angling re-veals no bream present, remove bass as de-scribed above and then stock 250 advancedfingerling (3- to 5-inch) bluegill per acre. Bream crowded pondsIf aquatic weeds are a problem, eliminate the weedsfollowing recommendations in the section on Con-trolling Aquatic Vegetation. Remove many interme-diate bluegill using rotenone along shorelines in theearly fall; see Extension Publication 1954, “UsingRotenone to Renovate Fish Populations,” for moreinformation. After bream removal, stock 35 adult(10- to 12-inch) largemouth bass per acre to eatsmall bream, and use a winter drawdown (see sec-tion on Drawdowns) to help the bass more effec-tively feed on the small bluegill.

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ety of types and sizes of lures or baits. When fish-ing produces large numbers of small bass andlarge bream, you probably have an overpopula-tion of bass. When only a few large bass and manysmall bream are caught, the pond is probably over-populated with bream. Good catch rates of both bassand bream of all sizes indicates the pond is in balance(Table 3; Figure 8).

Corrective Management Measures Corrective actions for pond balance problems vary,depending on the cause of the problem. Recommen-dations for common balance problems are listedbelow. While these recommendations can lead toimprovements in fish size, they may need to bemodified as conditions change within the pond. Insome cases ponds may be so far out of balancethat the only solution is to renovate the pondand to restock. For information, see the sectionon Pond Renovation.

Undesirable fish populationIf the pond contains significant populations of gar, bullhead catfish, green sunfish, crappie, or otherspecies not recommended, renovate the pond andrestock with recommended species and stockingrates. For information, see the section on Pond Ren-ovation and Extension Publication 1954, “UsingRotenone To Renovate Fish Populations.”Balanced populationMaintain recommended harvest rates, keep accuratecatch and harvest records, and reassess the pond the following year.

Managing for Trophy BassLargemouth bass are one of the most popular sportfish in Mississippi, and a favorite management op-tion for ponds is trophy largemouth bass. Growingbig bass consistently requires careful management.It is critical to follow water quality, fertilization,aquatic weed control, and fish management pro-grams as defined in this publication or as prescribedby a fisheries professional.

e way to achieve big bass is through theirstomach! A basic bass and bream combination canproduce big bass, but you can increase your success

18

by increasing food available to each bass. You can dothis in three steps:

• Increase prey production by managing waterchemistry and fertility.

• Add new prey species or supplement prey.

• Manage bass size structure and abundance by re-moving small bass.

You can increase prey production through properwater chemistry and pond fertilization. Check to seeif the lake needs agricultural limestone (see LimingPonds section for details), and consider implementinga fertilization program. Trophy bass ponds can bene-fit from a properly conducted and maintained fertil-ization program, since fertilizing can double or triplethe pounds of fish per acre, which can be manipulatedto produce bigger bass. (See the section entitled ToFertilize or Not To Fertilize? for more details.)

Two additional prey species are commonly recom-mended for supplemental prey in Mississippi ponds:

Fathead Minnows — good prey for bass withno negative impacts on the fish community. Butbass feeding quickly eliminates these fish fromMississippi ponds, and you have to restock them

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19

may compete some with bream,so stock them only in pondswhere you want trophy bass.

Buy threadfin only from licenseddistributors to ensure proper speciesidentification. Never collect shadfrom the wild, because it is verydifficult to distinguish threadfinshad from gizzard shad! Do notstock gizzard in ponds because theytend to grow too big for bass to eat;they can overpopulate and will com-pete with other prey species.

Producing big bass requires acommitment to proper harvest ofbass. Do not harvest bass the firsttwo years after stocking. Beginningin year three, harvest 15 (30 forfertilized ponds) pounds of bassper acre each year that are lessthan 12 inches. Removing thesesmall bass reduces competition withremaining bass, providing more foodfor those that remain. Also, re-move 5 pounds (10 for fertilizedponds) of bass per acre that are12 to 15 inches each year. Releaseall bass over 15 inches unless youharvested them as trophies. Harvestbream as desired. Important: Sup-plying additional food alone will notproduce trophy bass. Bass harvestmust occur consistently!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Figure 8. You can construct simple bar graphs such as these from fishing catch data if

you keep good records. These bar graphs are important management tools you can

be use to diagnose population balance problems.

often. It is best to stock this species fall tospring, when water temperatures are cooler. readfin Shad — excellent forage fish forlargemouth bass and provide abundant prey yearafter year. readfin shad are cold sensitive anddie when water temperatures fall below 36 °F.is may occasionally result in threadfin shaddie-offs in northern Mississippi during the cold-est winters. readfin shad will need to be re-stocked the following spring. readfin shad

The biggest mistake in

bass management is

catch and release of

all bass. Small bass

need to be harvested

to allow more food

for fast growth of

intermediate-sized bass.

Crappie ManagementWe do not advocate stocking crappie in pondssmaller than 50 acres. But many ponds have crap-pie already, and many people do not wish to reno-vate the pond and stock the recommended species.Although bass and bream ponds may produce goodfishing with crappie for several years after stocking,the eventual result is a pond with small skinny bass,small skinny crappie, and small skinny bream.

If you have a pond with crappie, you canmanage it to produce decent crappie fishing.e secret is to maintain a population of manysmall bass, which eat most of the crappie re-production. us, the few crappie that survive cangrow to larger sizes. But you will not grow manylarge bass using this approach. Catch and removeall largemouth bass that are longer than 15inches, and return all smaller bass to the pond.Fish for crappie often, and never throw a crappieback in the pond. If bass catch rates decline or crap-pie appear skinny and slow growing, stock 35 to 50bass (10 to 12 inches long) per acre to eat morecrappie. If possible, use a drawdown every winter toconcentrate the fish and make it easier for bass tocatch and eat crappie. See the section on Draw-downs for more information.

CONTROLLING AQUATIC VEGETATIONAquatic plants fulfill many natural functions and arevital in aquatic and wetland environments. Someaquatic plants are desirable and serve as foodsources for waterfowl and other wildlife, habitat forfish, and a substrate and food source for inverte-brates (such as insects and snails). Some plants maybecome too plentiful and interfere with fishing,swimming, and boating in private ponds and lakes.Many plant species should be controlled only whenthey become pests by interfering with the preferreduse of a particular pond or lake. Oth-ers, particularly non-native species,must be dealt with when they first ap-pear.

Prevention should always beyour first action, if practical, sinceit is usually easier and cheaper toprevent an aquatic weed problemthan it is to cure one. Preventivemethods include proper pond location,design, construction, and drawdown.Refer to the sections on Site Selection,

20

Pond Construction, and Drawdowns for specific de-tails on these aquatic weed prevention measures.Also, stocking five triploid grass carp per sur-face acre into ponds that do not have weedproblems helps prevent weeds from becomingestablished. If you use proper preventive methods,aquatic weeds are seldom a problem.

If aquatic weeds become a problem, you cancontrol them through physical, mechanical, bio-logical, and chemical methods. Each method hasadvantages and disadvantages, and combining meth-ods into an integrated weed control plan is usuallymost effective.

If you have a weed problem in your pond,follow these steps in aquatic weed control:• Identify the problem weed.• Choose the most economical and efficient

control method or combination of methods.A combination of techniques usually providesthe best long-term control.

• If you select a chemical method of control,be sure it is economical, safe, and effective.Calculate pond area or volume to be treated, andfollow label instructions.

• Pay close attention to use restrictions fol-lowing herbicide treatment.

Physical ControlRooted plants cannot grow where sunlight does notreach the bottom, so deepening shallow pond edgesso they drop quickly to 3 feet deep is an effectivemeans of reducing weed coverage. Use a 3:1 (1 footincrease in depth for each 3 feet from shore) slopeso the bank remains stable and does not collapse.

Another physical technique, called a drawdown(a reduction in water level), can be effective and eco-nomical in controlling many kinds of aquatic weeds.(See section on Drawdowns). For detailed informa-tion on winter drawdowns, request Extension Infor-mation Sheet 1501, “Winter Drawdown: A Useful

Management Tool for Mississippi Farm Ponds,”from your county Extension agent.

You can use pond dyes to control submersedaquatic weeds by shading the plants so they do not get enough sunlight. Use dyes only in pondsthat have little outflow, since flowing water washesthe dye out of the pond. Also, dye reduces pond productivity and should not be used in ponds thatare fertilized.

Although pond liners are a form of physical con-trol sometimes used for aquaculture and municipalponds, they are generally too expensive and imprac-tical for private ponds.

Mechanical Control is may be as simple as cutting a willow tree or re-moving a few unwanted plants (such as cattails) thathave just gotten started along the water margin, orit may involve raking or seining algae on the bottomor free-floating. While cutting and removing a fewplants by hand can be effective in small and limitedareas, mechanical aquatic weed control on a largescale is generally difficult and impractical. Mechani-cal plant removal is usually not a permanent solu-tion, as plants may grow quickly and recolonize, butit can be used to clear the majority of plants to im-prove effectiveness of other techniques such as bio-logical or chemical control.

Biological Control Biological control uses an animal or other living or-ganism to control the weeds. Biological control hasmany advantages over other weed control means. Ittakes much less human effort than most mechanicalcontrol means and does not require expensive andsometimes hazardous aquatic herbicides. And usinganimals provides longer-term control than othermeans, since the animals usually live several years.Triploid grass carp (white amur) from Chinaare commonly used for aquatic weed control.

How much vegetation grass carp will consumedepends on several environmental conditions, suchas water temperature, water chemistry, and the kindsof plants available. Consumption rates also vary withfish size. For example, until they reach weights ofabout 6 pounds, grass carp may eat 100 percent oftheir body weight in vegetation per day. As they growlarger, consumption decreases; up to about 13pounds, they will eat 75 percent of their body weightper day, and above 13 pounds, they slow down toabout 25 percent of body weight per day.

Grass carp prefer soft, low-fiber aquaticweeds such as duckweed and various underwa-

21

ter plants. But grass carp cannot necessarilycontrol some of the plant species they “prefer”to eat. ese plants grow very quickly, and grasscarp may not be able to eat them quickly enough.Duckweed is a good example of a plant that grasscarp love but usually cannot control. One solution isto increase the density of grass carp, but this carriesits own risks. In cases where 15 or more grasscarp per acre are stocked, it is a good idea toremove many of these fish once weeds are con-trolled.

Table 4 lists plants that grass carp typicallycontrol. If the species of plants they want are notavailable, carp feed on new growth of less-desirableplants and on plants above the water surface. It isthis strong appetite for plants that makes grass carpuseful in controlling aquatic weeds.

e number of grass carp required to controlweed problems varies, depending on the degree ofweed infestation, kind of weed, size of pond or lake,and size of fish stocked. e general rule in farmponds is to stock enough grass carp to control theweeds in one to two seasons but not so many thatthey quickly eat all vegetation. e best approach isto consider the grass carp as a weed maintenancetool rather than a total elimination tool.

For most farm pond situations where weedshave already become a problem, 5 to 10 grasscarp per surface acre usually achieve desiredweed control. In ponds with severe weed problems,higher rates of 15 to 20 grass carp per acre may benecessary for plant control. In such cases, it is some-times more effective to treat the pond chemicallywith an herbicide first, and then stock moderatenumbers of grass carp to prevent weed regrowth.You can get assistance in diagnosing the situation bycontacting your county Extension agent or a fish-eries biologist from other state or federal agencies.

In new ponds where you stock triploidgrass carp for weed prevention, five fish peracre usually is sufficient. Grass carp are very goodat preventing weed establishment, and even eatnonpreferred plant species when they first begin to

22

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23

grow and are still soft and tender. In new ponds,fingerling triploid grass carp may be successfullystocked anytime before the bass are stocked. Oncebass are present, however, you must stocktriploid grass carp that are at least 8 incheslong to ensure bass cannot eat them. Althoughthis size fish costs more, larger fish are necessary forthem to survive.

Although regular “diploid” grass carp will not re-produce in ponds, they may reproduce if they arewashed downstream into rivers. ey can have envi-ronmental impacts on native plants and animals, somany states have restricted or prohibited the use ofgrass carp. ey are not permitted for control ofplants in farm ponds in Mississippi. Triploid grasscarp are sterile, so they cannot reproduce if they es-cape into the wild. Only triploid grass carpshould be stocked in Mississippi ponds.

Chemical Control Identifying a problem weed is the first step tocontrolling it. Herbicides are generally species spe-cific, meaning they are effective only on certainplants. Herbicides are expensive, so it would not bewise to randomly select an aquatic-approved herbi-cide, since it may not be effective.

Chemical control requires using aquatic herbi-cides (and surfactants) that have met strict Environ-mental Protection Agency (EPA) standards for use inan aquatic environment. e herbicides are of lowtoxicity to fish and wildlife (and humans) when usedaccording to guidelines, rates, and restrictions speci-fied on the label for each herbicide. Some herbicideshave limited livestock (cattle) restrictions beforereentry into treated areas and limited irrigation useimmediately following treatment.

Chemical control has its limitations. Applyingherbicides may require specialized equipment andexpertise. Some herbicides can be very expensive,and some may not provide prolonged weed control.Rooted aquatic plants usually develop in water thatis too shallow or too clear. Even after treatment ofthe vegetation, the conditions may still be presentfor aquatic weed recolonization. Return of the sameor another weed problem is often likely, requiringmore applications of herbicides. It is important toeliminate the conditions that encourage thegrowth and spreading of aquatic plants.

Before using any chemical control, cor-rectly identify the aquatic weed to be treatedso you can select the most effective and eco-nomical herbicide. For assistance with aquaticweed identification, contact the Mississippi StateUniversity Extension Service (your county agent),the Natural Resources Conservation Service, or theMississippi Department of Wildlife, Fisheries andParks. In most cases, you can ship or mail a sampleof your weed in a Ziploc® bag wrapped in a damp(but not wet!) paper towel to any one of these of-fices, and a biologist can make an accurate identifica-tion. You can also e-mail close-up, clear, detaileddigital photos to these agencies for proper plantidentification and recommendations.

Table 4 lists many of the common aquatic weedsthat occur in Mississippi and the herbicides that areusually effective in their control. Table 5 lists theuse restrictions for the herbicides listed in Table 4.You must know the surface area and/or volumeof water in the pond, since the amount of her-bicide to use is determined by either the sur-face area or water volume to be treated. Pondvolume is determined by multiplying the surface

Box 1. Useful calculations and conversion factors of herbicide application.

Calculations for amount of herbicide needed on basis of parts per million by weight (ppmw)

Volume of pond: V (acre-feet) = A x D Ditch or canal: W = A x L x C x 0.0000625 Lake or pond: W = A x D x C x 2.71

Symbols

A = Pond surface area (acres) D = Average pond depth (feet) W = Pounds of active ingredient needed

L = Length of channel (feet) C = Desired concentration of herbicide in parts per million by weight (ppmw)

Useful conversion factors

1 acre = 43,560 feet2

1 acre-foot = 43,560 feet3

1 foot3 = 7.48 gallons

1 gallon = 4 quarts

1 quart = 2 pints

1 pint = 2 cups

1 cup = 8 fluid ounces

1 pound = 16 ounces

Conversion for various volumes to attain one part per million (ppm)

Amount active ingredient Per unit of volume

2.71 pounds acre-foot

0.000998 ounces cubic foot

8.34 pounds million gallons

Consult your county Extension agent, NRCS representative, or regional MDWFP

office for assistance with determining herbicide dosages and pond volumes.

24

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acreage by the average depth of the pond, and ismeasured in acre-feet. Several important calcula-tions are provided in Box 1. For additional assis-tance in calculating treatment levels and pondvolumes, request Information Sheet 673, “CommonCalculations Used in Fish Pond and Lake Manage-ment” from your county agent.

For effective aquatic weed control, youmust select the appropriate herbicide andapply it properly. Some herbicides may be used di-rectly from the container; others must be mixedwith water, or with water plus a surfactant beforebeing used. Use care when selecting a surfactant, be-cause ionic surfactants (detergents) are not legal foraquatic use and may kill fish. Always follow label in-structions and precautions when applying herbi-cides. Some may be applied by hand (low volume,spot spray), while others require the use of powersprayers (high volume, tank mix) or drip lines. Time of Applicatione time to apply herbicides is very important. Usu-ally, treatments applied in the spring or earlysummer when the weeds are actively growingbring the best results. Herbicide applications inthe late summer and fall are generally less effectivefor many species. Failure to control some problemaquatic plants can result in an increase in the af-fected area requiring treatment. Many of theseplants make mature seeds by midsummer thatsprout the following year.

In hot weather, be careful not to depleteoxygen by killing too many weeds at one time.Low dissolved oxygen levels can result from the nat-ural decay of treated (killed) aquatic plants. Fish killsmay result if the dissolved oxygen level becomes toolow in your pond. It is seldom safe to treat morethan half the pond at one time in the summerunless you are treating marginal aquaticweeds.

A good rule to prevent oxygen depletion is to treat one-third of the pond; wait one week, and treat another

one-third of the pond; wait a week, and treat the

remaining one-third.

For many types of marginal (shoreline) vegeta-tion problems, you may simply spot treat as neededto maintain good control. On older ponds and lakeswhere aquatic vegetation is well established, seekprofessional help to gain the control you need.

It is against Federal Law to use any chemi-cal other than aquatic herbicides approved andregistered by the EPA. Improper use of chemicalsmay result in serious environmental damage, fishkills, contaminated water supplies, and danger tohuman health.

Diuron (Karmex®) is not approved for generalaquatic use. Never apply it to recreational fish-ing ponds. It is also illegal to use Round-Up® inwater, and Round-Up® in ponds may kill fish.

e legal aquatic herbicides listed in Table 4 arefor educational purposes only and generally repre-sent various products on the market at the time ofpublication. Reference to commercial products ortrade names is not an endorsement and is madewith the understanding that no discrimination is intended of other labeled products that may also be suitable or become available in the future. Read and observe label precautions before using any chemical in an aquatic environment.

Common Problem PlantsPlant Growth FormsAquatic plants can be generally classified into twogroups. e algae are primitive plants that have notrue roots, stems, or leaves, and do not produceflowers or seeds. e higher, more advanced groupis the vascular plants, which usually have roots,stems, and leaves, and produce flowers and seeds.

e algae come in many forms but can be gener-ally classified as 1) planktonic – microscopic simpleplants (not all are true plants) suspended in thewater or floating on the surface as “scums,” 2) fila-mentous and colonial – long strands, mats, clumps, orwebs of algae that may start growing from the pondbottom and then rise to the surface to form mats,and 3) macroalgae – a more advanced group that re-sembles vascular plants in growth habits.

e vascular plants typically exhibit one ormore of three potential growth forms – submersed,emergent, or floating, and are often categorized usingthese criteria.

Submersed plants spend their entire life cycles ator below the surface of the water, although theflower parts of the plants may extend above the sur-face of the water. Usually the plants are rooted inthe soil, but masses of plants may tear loose and

26

float free in the water. Some submersed plants mayappear to be emergent or floating plants, particu-larly when support structures for flowers are pres-ent. Some of the most noxious aquatic plantsspecies are submersed.

Emergent plants are rooted in the bottom soiland their leaves, stems, and flowers extend abovethe surface of the water. Many can grow in bothaquatic and terrestrial environments. ese plantsare rigid and do not require the water for support.Many emergent plants may appear as submersedplants during the early growing season before they“top out,” and a few species may remain submersedindefinitely. In addition, a few may form extensivefloating mats and, therefore, appear to be floatingplants. Emergent plants are typically marginal ex-cept in water bodies that have extensive shallowwater, or where they form mats that extend out todeeper water.

Floating plants include both free-floating plantsnot rooted or attached to the bottom soil and thefloating-leaf plants with roots that attach to the bottom, stems extending toward the surface, andleaves that float on the surface. A few species maymature to have leaves that extend well above thesurface, making them appear more like emergentplants. Likewise, some species of floating plantsmay appear to be submersed plants during certainseasons, growth stages, or under certain environ-mental conditions.

ere are many species and subspecies, and ac-curate identification is critical for selecting a controlmethod. Appendix A has photos of some com-mon plant species in Mississippi ponds.

LIMING PONDSJust like many gardens in Mississippi, some pondscan benefit from the occasional addition of agricul-tural limestone. is is true for ponds that have analkalinity less than 20 ppm. Ponds with low alkalin-ity are unproductive, even when sufficient nutrientsare in the water either naturally or because the pondis fertilized. Fertilizing a pond with alkalinityless than 20 ppm is a waste of time and money.

What is alkalinity?Alkalinity is the measure of the buffering capacity ofthe water. In waters with low alkalinity, pH mightfluctuate from 6 or lower to as high as 10 or aboveevery day, which can make fish sick or grow slowly.Alkalinity is related to hardness, so soft water (lowhardness) usually has low alklalinity.

What is the recommended alkalinity?For fish production and health, alkalinity of atleast 20 ppm is recommended. Greater produc-tion in bass-bluegill ponds is attained in high alka-linity waters because this buffering capacity makesphosphorus and other essential nutrients moreavailable to the algae. Also, fish are stressed by ex-tremes in pH and by rapid changes in pH and tendto grow more slowly and be more susceptible to ill-ness when alkalinity is low. After oxygen, poorwater chemistry is the next most common cause offish kills in ponds. When alkalinity is very low,stressed fish may die during weather changes andrain events, with a few fish of all species dying eachday. A pH value between 6.5 and 9.0 is optimum forfish ponds.

Alkalinity testing kits are widely available atmany pool and spa stores and at county agricultureco-ops. ese test kits are easy to use. Also, mostcounty MSU Extension offices or NRCS Service Centers can test water alkalinity.

Note: When treating algae using a copper-containing compound, a minimum alkalinity of 50 ppm is required to prevent copper toxicity that may kill fish.

What if alkalinity is less than 20 ppm?For ponds with alkalinity less than 20 ppm, pondhealth can be substantially improved by increasingalkalinity. e most common method of increas-ing alkalinity in waters is by adding agricul-tural limestone (calcium carbonate). Addinglime to these ponds elevates alkalinity and increasespH in the water. Neutralization of bottom soil withlime prevents phosphate from adhering to it,thereby increasing phosphorus concentrations inthe water (the primary nutrient in ponds). As a re-sult of these changes in water quality, phytoplank-ton blooms develop, and pH fluctuates less.

If a pond has a high rate of water flow in andout, liming may not be a solution. Such a pond has a low water retention time, and the lime washes out quickly.

Soil Testing If you are building a new pond, have the MSUExtension Soil Testing Laboratory test the soilto determine how much lime is needed beforefilling the pond. Soil sample boxes, instructions,and information sheets are available at your countyExtension office.

The soil analysis report from the State Soil Testing Labo-

ratory will provide a liming recommendation in tons per

acre. However, this recommendation is for pure cal-

cium carbonate, which is 100% active. Commercial lim-

ing materials vary in their ability to neutralize soil due

to chemistry and particle size.

The neutralizing value (NV) depends on the chemi-

cal itself. Pure calcium carbonate has an NV of 100.

Agricultural limestone may have NV values between 85

and 109 depending on its specific chemical composition.

The neutralizing efficiency (NE) of agricultural lime-

stone depends on the fineness of the mixture. Finely

crushed agricultural limestone contains different sizes of

particles. Small particles dissolve more quickly and com-

pletely and are more reactive than larger particles.

The liming requirement (from the soil test), NV, and

NE (ask limestone distributor for both values) can be

used to calculate the precise amount of lime needed as

shown below. If either of these values are not available,

use NV = 0.85 and NE = 0.75 as a conservative estimate.

Liming RequirementTons needed =

(NV × NE)

Example:

CaCO3 recommendation: 3 tons/ac

Crushed lime NV: 0.85

Crushed lime NE: 0.75

3 tons/acreTons needed =

(0.85 × 0.75)

= 4.7 tons/acre

Multiply 4.7 by the surface acreage of

water to get total lime requirement.

27

Here is how to sample pond soils:

• If pond is larger than 3 acres, partition the pondinto 3-acre blocks, and sample each block sepa-rately. (If the pond is less than 3 acres, collectthree samples per acre.)

• Collect about a pint of soil from each of ten loca-tions per block.

• oroughly mix the ten samples together in abucket.

• Take one sample from the mixture and air-dry.Place this sample in a soil sample box and sub-mit to the Soil Testing Lab at Mississippi StateUniversity. Be sure to indicate in the “cropgrown?” window on the submission form thatthis sample is for a farm pond (Code 50).

• Repeat this procedure for each 3-acre block inthe pond. e sample will be analyzed, and youwill receive a report indicating if your pondneeds lime and how much to apply. Importantnote: this liming recommendation will needto be adjusted based on the agriculturallimestone available in your area. See Box 2for information on conversion.

To collect a soil sample from a pond containingwater, use a tin can nailed perpendicular on a longstick (depends on pond depth) or a long PVC pipe tocollect bottom mud. Use an S-shaped pattern to col-lect samples as described above.

Ponds in the Delta generally do not need addi-tional lime, and ponds in the Black Belt and thick andthin loess soils need only small amounts. Ponds in thered clay hills of north and central Mississippi usuallyneed 2 tons of lime per acre, and the sandy soils ofSouth Mississippi usually need from 2 to 3 tons oflime per acre (see Figure 9).

Liming AgentsOnly agricultural limestone should be used for exist-ing ponds with fish populations. is is the sameform of lime farmers use on their crop and pastureland. You can buy it in bulk or bag form. Never usequicklime, hydrated lime, slaked lime,builder’s lime, or other more potent limingagents! ese other forms are different chemi-cal compounds that are very caustic and maykill fish.

When To ApplyIt is best to lime the pond in fall or winter atleast 2 months before the growing season.

Liming a pond in the spring increases pH, removessoluble phosphorus, and reduces free carbon diox-ide. is affects the productivity of the pond. Byliming the pond in the fall or winter, it has time toequilibrate before the growing season.

Lime ApplicationIt is easiest to apply lime when the pond is dry. Forthe lime to be effective, spread it evenly over the en-tire pond bottom. To accomplish this, a spreadertruck or tractor spreader can be driven along thepond bottom, or the lime can be spread by hand. Itis not necessary to disc the lime into the soil, but thisaccelerates its neutralizing activity.

Box 2. Conversion of Soil Testing Laboratory lime recom-

mendations to specific liming materials.

28

It is more difficult to apply lime in ponds thatare full of water, but this is more often when pondsare limed. e lime needs to be spread acrossthe entire pond surface as evenly as possible.Remember, you are liming the soil, not thewater! For small ponds (less than 1 acre), it may bepossible to back the spreader truck up to the pond inseveral locations and broadcast the lime. For larger

ponds, it will be necessary to load the limeonto a boat or barge and then shovel orwash the lime uniformly into the pond.

If you have one or two jonboats, you canmake a simple liming barge. One boatworks well but cannot handle very muchlime at a time. Two boats tied together isbest, because these boats can handle morelime per trip. Attach a large sheet of heavyplywood (½ inch or larger) across the bowof the boat(s), and load a safe amount oflime. You can shovel the lime across thepond or use a spray washer. Using a stan-dard water or trash pump, pull water fromthe pond and spray across the lime pile,washing it into the pond.

A lime treatment usually lasts from2 to 5 years, depending on how muchwater flows through the pond and howacidic the bottom soils are. A methodthat usually works well is to apply thelime the soil testing report calls for,then apply a fourth that amount eachyear to be sure the lime requirementcontinues to be satisfied.

TO FERTILIZE OR NOT TO FERTILIZE?e decision of whether to fertilize afishing pond should be considered verycarefully. Proper fertilization significantlyincreases the total weight of fish producedin a pond, often by as much as three to fourtimes. But there are many reasons not tofertilize, including potential water qualityissues, high expense, and the fact that it is along-term commitment. Consider the fol-lowing when making your decisions.

Fertilizer stimulates growth of micro-scopic plants, called phytoplankton. Phyto-

plankton forms the base of the food chain, andsmall animals eat these small plants, which serve asfood for bream, which in turn are eaten by bass.Phytoplankton makes the water turn green, or“bloom,” which also shades the bottom and discour-ages growth of troublesome aquatic weeds.

Most ponds should not be fertilized. If onlya few people fish a larger pond, it does not necessar-ily need fertilization to have good fishing. But in aheavily fished pond, proper fertilization producesthe best fishing. Fertilization significantly increases

Figure 9. Location of major soil types in Mississippi.

29

the total weight of fish produced in a pond, increas-ing the number of fish that need to be harvested.As a general rule, harvest 30 pounds of smallbass (< 13 inches) per acre each year, and re-move 90 to 120 pounds of bream per acre eachyear in fertilized ponds. In ponds that are notfertilized, only half as much harvest is required.

When Not To Fertilize Many Mississippi ponds should not be fertil-ized. Here are some cases where this is true: • Ponds not fished heavily. Fertilizing a large

pond is a waste of time and money if you fish itonly occasionally. You just produce more fishthat aren’t caught, increasing the possibility ofcrowding and slow growth.

• Muddy ponds. Mud keeps sunlight from pass-ing through the water and binds up phosphorusin fertilizer. is prevents good planktongrowth. If a pond stays muddy most of the time,do not fertilize the pond until the mud problemis corrected.

• Ponds infested with undesirable fish. If un-desirable fish dominate the pond, renovate thepond, restock, and then begin fertilizing. Re-quest Extension Publication 1954, “UsingRotenone To Renovate Fish Populations in FarmPonds” for details on renovating farm ponds.

• Ponds infested with weeds. During warmmonths, pond weeds use up the fertilizer the mi-croscopic plants should get. e pond stays cleareven after repeated fertilizer applications, andyou gain more weeds.

• Fish populations out of balance. If the breampopulation is overcrowded, it means there arenot enough bass to keep the bream down. Itwould be counterproductive to fertilize in thiscase.

• Ponds that are fed commercial feed. It is notnecessary to fertilize ponds if you follow a feed-ing program. Commercial feed adds nutrients tothe water, and adding fertilizer can degradewater quality.

• Too much water flow. In some spring-fedponds, too much water flows through the pondto maintain plankton blooms. In this case, fertil-izer constantly being diluted has little positiveeffect.

When To Fertilize Some Mississippi ponds benefit from fertilizer. Hereare some cases where this is true:

• Ponds that are heavily fished. Ponds that re-ceive heavy fishing pressure may be at risk ofoverharvest or poor fishing. Fertilization can in-crease the abundance of fish to compensate forheavy fishing.

• Ponds managed for trophy fish. Producingbig bass relies on over abundant prey and lowbass density. A fertilization program and re-moval of small bass can achieve good results.

Type and Rate of Fertilizer Fertilizer is always marked with three numbers sep-arated by dashes. ese numbers indicate the per-centage of the fertilizer product that is made ofnitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), re-spectively. A fertilizer with an N-P-K of 13-37-0 is13% nitrogen, 37% phosphorus, and 0% potassium.e key ingredient for ponds is phosphorus (middlenumber), so select a fertilizer with high phosphoruscontent.

Several types of fertilizer can be used, and allcan be effective if the pond soil pH and water chem-istry are in the correct ranges. Pond fertilizers areavailable in liquid, granular, or powdered forms. Liq-uid fertilizers dissolve most readily, followed bypowders, and then granular types.

Typical formulations for liquid fertilizers include10-34-0 and 13-37-0. Apply these fertilizers at therate of 1/2 to 1 gallon per surface acre, dependingon pond location and soil fertility (Table 6). Pow-dered, highly water-soluble fertilizers, such as 12-49-6 or 10-52-0, are available and have proven to beeffective and convenient. ese formulations aretypically applied at the rate of 2 to 8 pounds per sur-face acre, again depending on pond location and soil fertility (Table 6).

Granular fertilizers are less expensive and areavailable in many formulations. Most older pondsrespond well to a phosphorous-only fertilizer suchas Triple Super Phosphate (0-46-0), which is themost economical formulation. Rates range from 4 to12 lb per acre per application. In some areas, it maybe difficult to buy 0-46-0, but 0- 20-0 is usuallyavailable. If it is, use twice the amount recom-mended for 0-46-0.

30

When To Apply Fertilizer Begin fertilization when water temperatureshave stabilized at 60 °F or higher. Usually thistemperature occurs around March 15 in south Mis-sissippi and April 1 in central and north Mississippi.Early fertilization shades the pond bottom andhelps control filamentous algae, a common problemin Mississippi ponds in spring.

Make the first three applications of fertil-izer two weeks apart. is should establish agood bloom. e ideal bloom makes the water greenand results in a visibility of about 18 inches. Use ayardstick with a white tin can lid on the end tomeasure the bloom, or make or buy a Secchi Disk(Figure 10). When you can see the lid in 24 inches ofwater, it is time to fertilize again. When water tem-perature drops below 60 °F in the fall, stop fertiliz-ing for the year.

How To Apply Fertilizer Never broadcast granular fertilizer,and never apply undiluted liquid fer-tilizer. e fertilizer will rapidly sink tothe bottom and be tied up in soils in-stead of becoming available in the water.You will not achieve a bloom and arewasting your money.

You can broadcast finely pow-dered water-soluble fertilizers intoareas at least 2 feet deep where it willdissolve before reaching the bottom.

If you use granular forms, applythem in a way that minimizes fertil-izer-soil contact. You can do this bymaking fertilizer platforms – one foreach 5 to 6 acres of water. Build theplatforms so you can raise or lower

them. Pour the right amount of fertilizer on theplatforms so 4 inches of water covers them. Waveswill distribute the fertilizer throughout the pond.

Building a platform can be difficult in existingponds. An alternative method is simply to placebags containing the needed amount of fertil-izer in shallow water with the top side of thebag cut out. e bags separate soil and fertilizer,and waves dissolve and distribute the fertilizer.

Dilute liquid fertilizer with at least twoparts water to one part fertilizer before appli-cation. In small ponds, you can spray liquids effec-tively from the bank with hand-held sprayers. Boatsmake application easy in larger ponds. You can spraythe diluted fertilizer over the water surface or let itflow into the prop-wash of an outboard motor. Youcan pour or broadcast powdered formulations di-rectly on the water surface.

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Figure 10. A Secchi disk is useful for measuring water clarity to determine if

you need more fertilizer.

31

New ponds, or those that have never been fertil-ized, sometimes fail to respond to fertilizer, and itcan be difficult to start up a plankton bloom. If yourfirst efforts to produce a bloom with 0-46-0 orother low nitrogen fertilizer don’t work, evenafter liming the winter before, use a more com-plete (high nitrogen) fertilizer, such as 20-20-5, at a rate of 40 pounds per acre on thespecified schedule until the pond gets a greenbloom. Continue with a normal application rate ofhigh phosphorus pond fertilizers after that.

Important Points on Fertilization• Once you start fertilizing, you must

continue fertilization from year to year!Stopping fertilization leaves the pond with toomany fish for the food produced, and fish starveand crowd quickly, resulting in poor conditionand growth.

• Improper fertilization is worse than no fer-tilization. Follow the fertilization recommen-dations in this manual and maintain therecommended bloom density for the entiregrowing season.

• Do not try to kill aquatic plants by applyingfertilizer. Although fertilization can shade thebottom and prevent weed growth, fertilizationafter weeds are established usually just makesmore weeds.

• A bloom should develop after two to three applications. Many Mississippi fish ponds do not develop a satisfactory phytoplankton“bloom” when fertilized at recommended ratesbecause of low soil pH and water alkalinity. Limecan increase fish production in ponds with acidbottom mud and soft water by altering the soilpH and alkalinity of the water. If a bloom doesnot develop after four applications of fertilizer,check for lime requirements, too much wateroutflow, too many weeds, or muddy water.

MUDDY WATERMuddy water limits fish production in ponds be-cause the phytoplankton (single cell plants) at thebase of the food chain must have sunlight to grow.Silt and mud deposits also cover fish eggs and fill thepond, and most pond fish feed using their sight.

Controlling the erosion in a pond’s watershed isessential for permanent control of most muddywater problems. Consult your local Natural Re-sources Conservation Service office for erosion con-

trol techniques and suggestions. If livestock aremuddying your pond, fence off the pond and installdrinking troughs below the pond. Some fish species,such as bullheads and common carp, can keep apond muddy. In this case, renovate the pond andstart over.

After you have identified and corrected thesource of muddy water, have your MSU Extensionoffice test your pond water for alkalinity. Pondswith low alkalinity also tend to have low hardnessand variable pH, which can cause clay particles to re-main in suspension for long periods of time. If al-kalinity is less than 50 ppm, addingagricultural limestone may help clear thepond. Spread 2 tons of crushed agricultural lime-stone per surface acre following the recommenda-tions presented in the Liming Ponds section. elimestone dissolves and releases calcium and magne-sium ions that settle the clay over several weeks.Once the pond is cleared, the small algae begin togrow, and muddy water conditions are unlikely to re-develop.

If alkalinity is above 50 ppm or if addingagricultural limestone does not clear the pond,one of the following methods may help removethe clay from the water: • 500 pounds of organic material per surface acre

such as old hay (approximately 10 square balesper acre broken up and broadcast evenly overthe pond surface), cotton seed husks, compost,or other similar organic material. Be carefulusing organic material in the summer, since decomposition may deplete oxygenand cause fish to die.

• Apply 40 to 90 pounds of alum (aluminum sul-fate) per acre-foot of water. e dosage dependson the severity of the muddy water. Treat mod-erately turbid water (can see about 12 inches inthe water) at 40 lbs/acre-foot, but severely tur-bid water (can see less than 6 inches into thewater) may require up to 90 lbs/acre-foot. istranslates to about 200 to 450 pounds of alumper surface acre of water for a pond with 5 footaverage depth. Alum removes alkalinity fromponds, lowers pH, and can lead to fish kills inponds with low alkalinity. To counteract this,apply hydrated lime at the same time as alum athalf of the alum rate. Hydrated lime by itselfcan cause fish kills, so be careful whenusing this method to clear ponds.

• Use gypsum (calcium sulfate dihydroxide) at therate of 260 to 600 lbs/acre-foot of water, de-

32

pending on the severity of the turbidity. istranslates to about 1300 to 3000 pounds of gyp-sum per surface acre of water for a pond with 5-foot average depth. Spread the gypsum from aboat over the pond surface, and stir with an out-board motor. e gypsum keeps the water clearas long as the gypsum is not washed from thepond. When used according to recommenda-tions, it does not kill fish, change the pH of thewater, or harm livestock. When water clears, youcan return to your regular fertilization program.

FEEDING You do not normally have to feed fish in a healthybream and bass pond to produce good crops of fish.Natural food organisms are typically abundantenough to feed fish. But you can increase growth of bluegill with a supplemental feeding program.Bluegill readily accept feed and can be attractedquickly to feeding areas.

Always feed small ponds stocked at highdensity with channel catfish or hybrid sunfishto maximize fish growth. Not feeding givespoor results. Here are some points to considerabout feeding: • Feed at the same time and place each day.

• Use floating feed, with a pellet size small enoughto be easily eaten.

• Never feed more than the fish will eat in 5 to 10minutes. Keep in mind that uneaten feed maypollute the water.

• If fish quit eating, stop feeding for a few days.Watch for signs of disease.

• Do not feed in very cold or very hot water.

• Reduce the feeding rate as winter approaches toabout one fourth of the feed rate of the previoussummer.

• Automatic feeders give good growth resultswhere small ponds are unattended for long periods.

• Do not try to feed fish up to large sizes withoutsome harvest to reduce the number of fish. Oth-erwise, crowded large fish may become diseasedand die.

Following these simple rules will provide goodgrowth rates while minimizing the risks of deterio-rating water quality.

DRAWDOWNS One of the most useful and inexpensive pond man-agement practices is called a “winter drawdown.”Water levels are reduced in a pond to some pre-determined level, generally exposing 35 to 50percent of the pond-bottom area. Winter draw-downs can be useful in controlling aquatic weedsand can help manipulate fish populations. ey arealso useful when repairing, redesigning, and limingponds. To perform a winter drawdown, make surethe pond has a drain pipe that lets the water levelsbe lowered and kept down throughout the winter.Ponds without a drainpipe can be retrofitted; de-tailed information on how to do this is availablethrough your county Natural Resources Conserva-tion Service office.

Drawdown for Aquatic Weed Control Aquatic weed problems are common in farm pondsand usually are challenging to manage. Of the fourbasic weed control methods (physical, mechanical,biological, and chemical), physical control can be theleast expensive and most convenient if it consists ofa winter drawdown. Winter drawdown exposesweeds to air-drying and freezing temperatures. iscan be an effective weed control technique, espe-cially if done in successive years.

For effective weed control, drop the water levelof the pond to expose aquatic weeds in the moreshallow portions of the pond. Usually, water levelsare reduced enough to expose 35 to 50 percent ofthe pond bottom, but this percentage may varygreatly, depending on topography and design of thepond. Maximum drawdown should be accom-plished by mid to late November, and the waterlevel should remain low through February.Spring rains will fill the pond.

33

If necessary, deepen the shoreline to 3 feet deepwhile water levels are reduced. is reduces the like-lihood of weeds returning. After reflooding, ifweeds persist and begin to sprout, apply an appro-priate herbicide. e combination of a winter draw-down, shoreline deepening, and effective earlyspring herbicide application usually eliminates orgreatly reduces aquatic weed infestations.

Drawdown for Fish Management Winter drawdown is also a good fish populationmanagement technique in largemouth bass/bluegillponds. By reducing the water level and pond area,you drive forage fish, such as bluegill, out of shallowwater refuges and concentrate them in open water,making them more available for bass to eat. is is agood technique to use in ponds having “crowdedbluegill” but still containing viable bass populations.

e increased feeding by largemouth bass onbluegill reduces bluegill numbers and provides morefood for the bass. Routine annual drawdowns canhelp maintain a balanced bass/bluegill fishery.

Drawdowns can make bass crowded situationsworse. If you have a bass-crowded pond, follow therecommendations in the Managing section, and donot use winter drawdowns until pond balance is re-stored.

Winter drawdown also provides a good opportu-nity to do repairs on piers, docks, and boat ramps, aswell as minor dam repairs and shoreline renovation.Fish attractors, such as brush tops and gravel beds,can be more easily put in place while the water isdown, and this is a good time to deepen edges to therecommended minimum depth of 3 feet. You can usedirt from the shoreline-deepening operation to buildearthen piers at various locations around the pond.ese piers increase the shoreline area of the pondand provide increased access for fishermen.

In most farm ponds, lowering the waterlevel 2 to 4 feet usually exposes the proper per-centage of the pond bottom. You must considerthe topography of the pond, amount of shallowwater, and pond shape and design. Reach the maxi-mum depth of drawdown by late November, and letthe water remain down through February. In southMississippi, the stand pipe can be raised a little ear-lier, perhaps mid-February, to let the pond refill andnot hamper bass spawning activities that begin ear-lier in that part of the state.

Winter drawdown can be a useful tool if you doit properly. It poses no threat to the fish populationand costs nothing if the pond is equipped with a

water control structure. Drawdowns should be doneonly in the winter, however, never in summer! eextreme temperatures in Mississippi summers, cou-pled with the increased activity level of fish and re-duced oxygen levels in warm water, will likely resultin fish kills in a summer drawdown.

UNEXPECTED FISH KILLSOccasionally, a fish kill occurs in farm ponds becauseof water quality problems, infectious disease,swarming fire ants (in the spring), or misused agri-cultural chemicals (pesticides). In some cases, thelosses may be enough to affect the balance of thefish population. Get professional help to evalu-ate the fish population balance after a fish kill.In many cases, a phone call will provide enoughinformation.

Oxygen Depletions and Pond TurnoversBy far the most frequent cause of fish kills infarm ponds is low oxygen. Low oxygen can be theresult of two separate phenomena in ponds. efirst is simple oxygen depletion, which usually oc-curs July through September in the time of highestwater temperature. Dieoffs caused by low dissolvedoxygen levels result from natural biologicalprocesses, and preventive measures are rarely effi-cient except for running an expensive aerator everynight.

Following are factors that can contribute to low oxygen levels:

• Dense plankton blooms or dense stands of pondweeds.

• Several days of cloudy weather that reduce plantoxygen production.

• High temperatures, which decrease the solubilityof oxygen in water and increase oxygen con-sumption by plants and animals.

• Sudden die-off of plants or algae, especially asso-ciated with herbicide use.

• Unusual weather patterns, such as storm frontsand heavy, cold rain.

• Overstocking fish, excessive fertilization, or highfeeding rates.

• Input of organic matter, such as hay, straw, orcottonseed meal for turbidity or algae control,and materials such as animal manure or sewage.

Another condition, often called “pond turnover,” canoccur after heavy cold rains in late spring to early

34

event early enough, you may be able to save somefish by using emergency aeration. A powerhouse-type aerator works great, but most people don’t haveaccess to aquaculture equipment. You can back aboat with an outboard motor halfway into the pond

and tilt the motor at a 45-degreeangle to the water surface. Run themotor at high speed to move a“rooster tail” of water into the air andacross the pond. Any technique thatmixes water and air can help providean oxygen refuge for fish.

Following a severe fish kill, somefingerling fish usually survive, butovercrowding bream tends to follow.After a severe fish kill, contact afisheries biologist to assess thestatus of your fish population.

pH and Mineral ProblemsPoor water chemistry is the secondleading cause of fish death in Missis-sippi ponds. Fish in acidic waterwith low alkalinity and hardness aremore likely to get sick, especially dur-ing times of stress, such as spawningseason or periods of rapid tempera-

ture change. A few fish, usually of different species(although catfish are especially sensitive), die everyday, and many may have sores or lesions. If this isthe case, have your pond water alkalinity measuredto determine if agricultural limestone is needed.Liming increases the dissolved minerals in thewater, which reduces stress on the fish. See the sec-tion on Liming Ponds for more information.

Infectious Diseases and Parasites Bream and bass generally do not have significantproblems with infectious diseases in well-balancedponds, although you may see an occasional sore onindividual fish during spawning season or after aninjury. is is normal, and these external sores donot pose any health hazard to humans.

e one known exception is Largemouth BassVirus (LMBV), which is not common in Mississippiponds. is virus becomes evident during the hotsummer, when largemouth bass are seen sick or deadon the surface and around the pond. A few bass dieevery day during warm weather, and larger fish seemto be more affected. When water temperatures coolin September/October, no more fish die from thevirus, but the virus persists in the pond. e bestway to avoid LMBV and other health problems is to

Figure 11. Stratification of water layers in pond during summer.

Surface layers contain high levels of oxygen pro-duced by the phytoplankton. e cooler bottom lay-ers are cut off from the surface layers and theirsources of oxygen, so oxygen levels drop over timebecause of normal biological processes. In fact,these deep waters can actually develop an “oxygendemand,” which is like having negative oxygen lev-els. When a heavy, cold rain enters the pond, orwhen there are sustained high winds, it mixes thetwo layers of water. When this occurs, oxygen levelsthroughout the pond may drop too low for fish tosurvive.

A severe mixing event can kill nearly everyfish larger than an inch or two in one night. Itis not uncommon to find large dead fish on dry landin the watershed above the pond following aturnover. ese fish swam up the incoming rain wa-ters seeking oxygen. Adult fish die first, and inter-mediate-sized fish follow, if the low oxygen levelsare too low or if low oxygen conditions continue formany days.

Usually, by the time you recognize there is anoxygen problem, it is too late to save your fish. Butan early symptom of a low-dissolved oxygen level isfish at the surface of the pond at sunrise. Fish appearto be “gasping for air.” If you discover the low oxygen

fall when temperatures drop suddenly. During calm,hot days, the pond develops temperature layerscalled “stratification.” e layer of water at the sur-face is exposed to the sun and warms quickly. iswarm layer weighs less than the cool water below, sothese layers do not mix (Figure 11).

35

follow stocking recommendations and do not stockfish from other natural systems.

Occasionally, bass and bream have smallwhite or yellowish grubs imbedded in the flesh.ese grubs, although not pleasant to look at,pose no threat to humans. You can trim awaythe affected area, and the rest of the fish issafe to eat if properly cooked.

Infectious diseases and parasites of channel cat-fish are common problems in catfish ponds. Over-stocking, inconsistent feeding, and poor waterquality contribute to this in recreational ponds. Dis-ease and parasite problems of catfish rarely occurwhen you use low stocking densities (100 to 150 peracre). Stress from handling may cause die-offs of fishwithin two weeks of stocking new or establishedponds.

If you choose to stock catfish at rateshigher than recommended (100 to 150 peracre), plan to cope with problems that mayoccur. Your county agent can provide you with In-formation Sheet 667, “Selecting and Shipping Sam-ples To Determine Cause of Fish Kills” and help youship catfish samples to Mississippi State Universitydiagnostic laboratories. You must arrange for some-one to receive your catfish before you ship them. Donot send fish samples to the Mississippi Depart-ment of Wildlife, Fisheries and Parks or to anyagency other than the Mississippi State UniversityCollege of Veterinary Medicine.

Fire Ants Fire ants are often wash into ponds or fly in duringbreeding swarms, and small and intermediate-sizedbream may die from eating these insects. Bass are

rarely affected. is generally does not hurt thepopulation balance.

Determining Factors in Fish KillsIf possible, send this information and the fishsample to the disease specialist:

• What species and sizes died?

• Number of fish lost since the die-off started.

• Approximate number of fish lost each day.

• Date and time of day the losses started.

• Were fish seen “gasping” at the surface of thewater?

• Size of pond (surface acres).

• Average pond depth.

• Number of fish stocked in the pond.

• Condition and color of the bloom before and after fish kill:

Light – You can see at least 18 inches deep, andthe pond has no accumulation of algae in thecorners or on the downwind side. Moderate – You can see 12 to 15 inches deep,and the pond may have some algae in the cor-ners or on the down wind side. Heavy – You can see no more than 12 inchesdeep.

Transporting and Shipping Samples Arrange for shipping and delivery. Samples

should arrive at the lab within 12 to 18 hours. Callthe lab and provide details on your case and the an-ticipated arrival time. Mississippi State Universityoperates two labs, one on campus (662-325-3432)and one at the Delta Research and Extension Center(662-686-9311).

Place live fish in a plastic bag with no water andseal. If you are sending catfish, clip the spines to pre-vent them from puncturing the bag in transit. enplace the bag in an ice chest containing crushed ice.

If the fish are to be hauled for a short distance,you may place them in a container or ice chest con-taining well-oxygenated water. Add a few chunks ofice to keep the water cool.

You can freeze fish for transport to the lab whenthere is no other way to keep them from spoiling.Frozen samples are hard to work with. Avoid themwhenever possible. Frozen samples are acceptable ifthey are for pesticide analysis.

Immediately ice down all dead fish that are stillacceptable for examination (freshly dead with gillsstill red) to slow further tissue breakdown.

ATTRACTING FISH e primary purpose for many farm ponds in Mis-sissippi is recreational fishing. With proper manage-ment, even small ponds can provide excellentfishing. One of the best ways to enhance thefishing experience is to create fish attractorsat strategic locations in a pond or lake with awell-managed fish population.

Game fish such as bass and bream are attractedto cover or shelter of all types. Shelters provideareas where prey fish can hide from predators andwhere predators can find prey species. ey also pro-vide spawning areas and harbor large numbers of in-vertebrates and insects that small fish feed on.Natural cover that provides shelter for fish includesditches, creeks, trees (standing or tree tops),stumps, vegetation, and other irregular features ofthe bottom. In ponds where natural shelter for fishis missing or is inadequate, you can establish artifi-cial structures to act as fish shelters that will attractand hold fish.

Trees as Fish Attractors You can develop fish shelters that will increasefish harvest and angling success in existingponds with small trees such as blackjack oak,post oak, or cedar. Discarded Christmas treesalso make good shelters. For small ponds, bushy-crowned trees 10 to 15 feet tall are sufficient. Youcan use larger trees in larger lakes. In ponds of lessthan one acre, one brush shelter is enough. Largerponds need one or two shelters per acre.

Select attractor sites anglers can get to. Goodlocations are in water 4 to 8 feet deep near

creek channels, near points, or at dropoffs.Drive a stake or use a floating buoy to mark theshelter site permanently. Place three to five treesat each location. Green trees will usually sink with-out weights. Some trees, such as cedar, will float.Add weights to these varieties to keep the sheltersin place.

Many new pond sites have trees in the basin.Cut and salvage most of these, then cut and pile orburn them. You can keep some trees, bushes, andbrush piles to use in establishing fish shelters. From10 percent to no more than 25 percent of the pondarea can have some tree shelter.

Leave bushes and trees in deeper water areas,along creek runs, and in the middle of ponds andlakes. Leave the trees in small clumps, then cut thestanding trees about 2 feet above the normal waterlevel, and anchor the brushy tops to the bases of thestumps. e tall stumps serve as permanent mark-ers for the shelter locations. Do not leave trees orbushes in shallow areas, in narrow coves, or alongpond banks, because these areas will become diffi-cult to fish and may develop weed problems. Also,too much cover in shallow water makes it hard forbass to effectively feed on bream and prevents navi-gation of the entire shoreline by boat. Fish will im-mediately inhabit brush-top shelters.

Gravel Beds as Fish Attractors Gravel beds are extremely attractive to breamfor spawning, and bream will use these gravel bedsfrequently throughout the spring and summer (Fig-ure 12). Select an area in water 3 to 4 feet deepthat is convenient for fishing. Drive a stake to

Figure 12. A pea gravel spawning bed has been installed in front of

this fishing pier during water level drawdown. This gravel bed will at-

tract bream during the spawning season, making them easy to catch.

36

mark the spot, and place washed gravel (1/2-inch diameter) around the stake, creating abed of gravel 4 to 6 inches deep. A 3- to 5-cubic-yard load makes a gravel bed 12 to 15 feet wide.For best results, you can provide a frame to holdthe gravel in place. If the frame is made of treatedlumber or other material that can float, make surethe frame is securely anchored to the bottom. Youcan add gravel beds to flooded sites or strategicallyplace them during drawdowns. Avoid sites thathave a high silt erosion problem.

Other Fish Attractors If trees or brush piles are not available, you canplace other types of structures in the pond to at-tract fish. Developing irregular bottom featuresduring construction, such as ditches and underwa-ter dirt mounds, also provides fish-attracting coverand creates excellent places to fish. Humps thatrise to 3- to 4-feet of depth and are sur-rounded by deeper water are fantastic fish at-tractors, especially in combination with brushpiles or gravel beds.

RENOVATING PONDS e ultimate fate of many farm ponds in Mississippiis an unbalanced fish population that is undesirableto anglers and has little recreational fishing value.Once a fish population reaches such a condi-tion, the best solution is usually to eliminatethe resident fish and restock with a desirablecombination of fish at recommended rates.Consult a fisheries biologist by calling any MDWFPdistrict office to determine the condition of yourpond and the possible need for a complete fish pop-ulation renovation.

e easiest way to renovate a pond is todrain and completely dry the pond. is alsolets you modify the pond or add habitat. If anypools of water remain in the basin, drain or poisonthem, because small fish can survive in these poolsfor a very long time and ruin your renovation at-tempts. Also, many ponds were not constructedwith a drain, and all of the water cannot be re-moved. ese ponds will need to be chemicallyrenovated.

Rotenone is a fish toxicant registered by the Environmental Protection Agency for removing unwanted fish.

37

What Is Rotenone? Rotenone is available at most farm and chemicalsupply stores. It is classified as a “restricteduse pesticide,” and you cannot buy it withouta private pesticide applicator’s certificate.You can get this certificate through yourcounty Extension agent.

Rotenone comes from the roots and stems ofseveral tropical plants. Rotenone has many com-mon and brand names, including Cube, Derris,Fish-Tox, Nox-Fish, Prentox, Nusyn Nox-Fish,rotenone dust, and Chem-Fish.

Rotenone keeps fish from using oxygen,but it does not remove oxygen from the water.Fish treated with rotenone move to the shallowwater or to the surface of deeper water soon afterexposure to the chemical. Fish species respond dif-ferently to rotenone, so it is a good idea to knowwhat species you have before you treat the pond.

Rotenone breaks down when exposed to theenvironment. e breakdown is rapid and is af-fected by temperature, light, oxygen, and alkalinity.Most waters are safe for restocking within 5 to 6weeks. In general, the cooler the water, the longerrotenone lasts.

Preparing the Pond You can treat ponds of any size with rotenone, butit can be difficult to spread rotenone for an effec-tive fish kill in larger ponds or lakes. It is also ex-pensive to treat large volumes of water. For thesetwo reasons, you will need to reduce the waterarea and volume as much as possible beforetreating. You can do this by draining the pond aslow as possible with a built-in standpipe, pump, ora siphon device. e less water you have to treat,the more cost effective the treatment. Also, lower-ing the water level pulls fish out of their shallowwater cover that can be difficult to treat.

How To Apply Rotenone Rotenone is available in a wettable powder or a liq-uid formulation. Liquids are easier to get into solu-tion and are more reliable for total fish kills. eliquid formulations typically contain 5 percentrotenone, although some contain 2.5 or 7 percent.

Treatment rates for a complete kill vary be-tween 0.1 and 3 ppm rotenone, depending on theobjective of the pond renovation and the speciespresent (Table 7). All formulations must be dilutedwith water and evenly distributed throughout thewater column. You can spray the chemical over the

38

pond surface or drip it into the prop wash of an out-board motor. e key is to have an even distribution;otherwise, fish may find “safe” areas and not bekilled. Application in a random “S” pattern through-out the pond maximizes coverage.

e best time to eradicate fish from a pondfor restocking is late summer or early fall.Water temperatures are at their highest at this time,and the weather is usually dry, allowing easy drain-ing. Killing the fish at this time reduces the time be-tween the kill and the restocking, which minimizesthe chance the pond will be contaminated by un-wanted fish before restocking. is is an importantconsideration, since letting in unwanted species candefeat the purpose for the renovation.

If you drain the pond, it is critical to poisonall remaining puddles to kill any fish there.Many small fish can survive in these pools,puddles, or stump holes for a long time. Youmust kill all fish to have a successful renova-tion. Otherwise, these surviving fish can contami-nate the new fish population, and the renovationwill have been for nothing. For more information onusing rotenone, request Publication 1954, “UsingRotenone To Renovate Fish Populations in FarmPonds” from your county Extension office.

When To Restock It is important to wait until the rotenone dissi-pates before restocking. If you poison in earlyfall, the rotenone should be detoxified by the timeearly winter rains come to refill the pond partially. Agood general rule is to wait one month. A simpletest can help determine when it is safe to restock.Place a few bream (bluegill or redear) in a small cagein the pond or in an aerated container with waterfrom the pond. If the fish survive 24 to 36 hours, itis safe to restock the pond. Do not release thesefish into the pond unless they are part of yourrestocking plan!

NUISANCE SPECIESTurtlesTurtles usually aren’t a biological problem in farmponds, but they might sometimes compete with fishfor food items such as crawfish, insects, or othersmall food items. ey can, though, create a nui-sance to anglers when they are caught on hooks andmust be removed, when they take baits intended forfish on trot lines, or when they eat fish on stringersleft in the water. Turtles also become a problem inponds where fish are being fed, because turtlesquickly learn that fish food tastes good and repre-sents an easy and free meal.

But turtles can be beneficial. eir greatest serv-ice is as scavengers to eat dead fish and other ani-mals or to eliminate diseased or weakened fish.Except for snapping varieties, turtles do not capturemany live fish and should not be considered a prob-lem in this regard.

Before pursuing any type of controlmethod, consider whether or not turtles are agenuine problem in your pond. Unless numbersare high and the interference with other pond usesis severe, it is probably best to leave the turtlesalone. But if you have significant problems, you mayneed to consider removing some turtles.

Shooting turtles as they bask in the sun or asthey swim in the water is an old practice you shouldnever use. Shooting into or across water is dan-gerous! Shooting also creates the possibility ofkilling a protected species, since identification froma distance is impossible. You can’t use repellents ortoxicants, so trapping is the only choice.

Trapping can effectively reduce local popu-lations. e best seasons for trapping arespring, summer, and early fall. Most turtles areinactive through the winter and feed very little,which makes baited traps ineffective during thattime.

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39

Other Problem Animals Many animal species can take up residence on smalllakes and ponds. Beavers, muskrats, nutria, alliga-tors, and geese can be a nuisance or even cause dam-age. Burrowing and damming activities can causedam failure or flood adjacent landowners. Tree cut-ting and flooding can cause loss of valuable timber.Beaver dens or huts may be great places to fish, butit is at the landowner’s expense. Fish attractors cangive the same success with no sacrifices.

Otters can quietly steal your fish at night. Afamily of otters, although cute, can virtually elimi-nate catchable-size fish in a small pond.

e best control is immediate action at the firstsign of these animals living in your lake. For speciessuch as nutria, beavers, and muskrat, trapping is themost effective control. For detailed assistance,contact USDA Wildlife Services (662-325-3014)or your Extension county agent. If an alligatoris residing in your lake, contact your nearestMDWFP office to have this animal removed. Donot make repairs to animal damage until you havecontrolled the problem animals.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONSPrivate Pond Consultants Personnel from Mississippi StateUniversity Extension Service, NaturalResources Conservation Service, andMississippi Department of Wildlife,Fisheries and Parks are available toprovide advice free of charge. How-ever, at times you may want to hire aprivate consultant to handle specificmanagement tasks. Several rep-utable companies are licensed towork in Mississippi. e guidelineson the next page were developedby the Southern Division of theAmerican Fisheries Society tohelp you make an informed selec-tion if you decide to hire a privateconsultant.

Figure 13. Simple turtle trap design. Floating PVC frame with a capture net

below. Resting boards pivot under the turtle’s weight, dropping it into the

collection area. Pivoting board returns to resting position, using counterweight

once turtle is collected.

Although you can trap snappers and soft-shelledturtles using underwater baited traps, you usuallydon’t have to remove these species from a farmpond. e more aggravating species are the“baskers,” which often crowd together in large num-bers on stumps, logs, or other structures above thewater surface. By taking advantage of this, you cantrap these species with a trap-box in the area turtlesnormally use. is trap has boards leading up fromthe water, with pivoting “balance boards.” When theturtles crawl onto these platforms, they weigh downthe boards, dropping the turtles into the collectionbox (Figure 13).

Check traps daily and remove all turtles, thentake the turtles to another location at least severalmiles away and release them into their natural habi-tat. Be careful not to violate state laws when trans-porting turtles, and do not carry them across statelines, since other states have different laws. If youdo not plan to visit the trap for a long while, flip itover on its side so turtles are not captured and leftin the trap.

Refer to Figure 13, and modify, using your ownideas and available materials. Your county agent orNatural Resources Conservation Service office canprovide you with other design illustrations.

40

Consumer questions for pond managementconsultants:

• How many years of experience do you havein this business?(An established business may have more expe-rience with unusual problems or needs.)

• Do you have a staff member with a fish-eries management degree?(A manager with a fisheries degree would bebetter trained in scientific pond management.)

• Do you carry liability insurance or bondingfor your services?(Insurance may protect the consumer if a prob-lem arises as a result of damage or mismanage-ment.)

• How will you survey my pond, and will I re-ceive a written report?(At a minimum, a qualified pond managershould check a pond firsthand and provide awritten report on findings and recommenda-tions to the pond owner.)

• Will you perform the needed management?(A good manager should be able to implementthe recommendations, not simply stock fish asa cure-all for your problems.)

• Can you provide me with a list of references?(An established, reputable manager shouldhave plenty of satisfied customers.)

• How are your fees based?(Managers may charge by the job or by thehour. Get an estimate in writing, up front.)

Making Money from Your PondFishing is a top recreational pastime in Mississippi,and many ponds and small lakes are visited everyyear in this pursuit. e increasing demand forquality fishing has led to congestion and overex-ploitation of some of our public waters. Fee fishingin private ponds can help alleviate the supplyshortfall for quality fishing opportunities, whileproviding the pond owner with a new source of in-come. Other revenue-generating opportunitiesfrom ponds may exist as well, including waterfowlhunting and bird watching. For more informationon these and other natural resource enterprise op-portunities, visit www.naturalresources.msstate.edu.

FOR MORE INFORMATION is publication should be helpful as you develop,improve, or maintain your small lake or pond inMississippi. Trained professionals – county agents,district conservationists, and MDWFP fisheries bi-ologists – are available to answer more specificquestions to achieve your goals and objectives. Andthis service is free!

Many other sources of information are alsoavailable, such as publications, local workshops,and seminars. Contact any of the three agenciesthat have provided this publication for details. eMississippi State University Extension Service andthe Natural Resources Conservation Service main-tain offices in every county of the state. Also, youcan contact the Mississippi Department ofWildlife, Fisheries and Parks district offices at anyof the following locations: District 1 (Tupelo)District 2 (Enid) District 3 (Canton)District 4 (Meridian)District 5 (Magnolia) District 6 (Wiggins) Main Office (Jackson)

If you have questions about information in thispublication, or if you have situations or problemsnot mentioned here, we encourage you to seek pro-fessional help. Proceeding with management tech-niques when you are uncertain about the correctthing to do can be frustrating and sometimes ex-pensive! It can also delay the progress and develop-ment of your pond. It is wise to remember andheed the old adage, “A wiser person asks manyquestions!”

Biologists from MDWFP can answer questionsvia the Farm Pond Forum found online atwww.mdwfp.com

41

then

then

1Stocking bass and bream fingerlings is necessary only in new ponds. Addi onal pond stocking should be done only on the advice of a fisheries biologist.2Be sure your pond should be fer lized before beginning a fer liza on program. Once you begin fer lizing, you must con nue it consistently and indefinitely.

Management Ac�on Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Stock bluegill/redear (1-3 in.)1

Stock bass fingerlings (1-3 in.)1

Lime if needed

Fer lize if desired2

Check density of bloom

Drawdown pond for winter

Refill pond

Chemical weed control

Biological weed control

Stock ca!ish when needed

Check pond balance

Feed fish if desired

Fish and harvest pond

Trim grass/brush on levee

FARM POND MANAGEMENT CALENDAR Use this calendar to help plan pond management activites throughout the year.

42

Instructions: Accurate and complete data are important to fisheries management. All anglers should complete a record after each trip.

For convenience, you can group fish by length group as follows:

Bass categories: < 12 inches, 12 - 15 inches, > 15 inches

Bluegill categories: 3 - 6 inches, > 6 inches

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FARM POND HARVEST RECORD

43

Planktonic algae: Green water is the sign of pro-ductivity, but if the water is too green (visibilityless than 12 inches) or there are severe surfacescums, this may indicate potential oxygen prob-lems for the pond.

Filamentous algae: Filamentous algae bloomsare a nuisance and can lead to water quality prob-lems. e “slimy” forms are easier to treat than themore “cottony” forms.

Chara: Chara is easily distinguished from othermacroalgae by its rough texture and strong mustyor garlic-like order. Individual internodes, or false“stems,” have whorls of six to eight branchlets thatdo not have further branching. Prefers hard water.

Nitella: Closely related to Chara, but is smooth tothe touch and does not emit a musty or garlic odor.It has six to eight branchlets along the internodes,but these brachlets have additional lateral and terminal branches that give the alga a bushy appearance.

APPENDIX A: COMMON OR PROBLEM PLANTSe most common problem plant species found in ponds/lakes in Mississippi. Contact your county Extensionoffice for help with aquatic weed identification and control.

Algae

44

Coontail: Coontail has dark green, relatively stiff,whorled leaves with many forks and small teethalong one edge. e tips of branches are crowdedwith leaves, making it resemble the tail of a rac-coon. e plant is very rough to the touch.

Watermilfoil: e watermilfoils have the charac-teristic feather-like leaves under the water. enon-native Eurasian watermilfoil is the most likelyproblem species and usually has twelve or morepairs of leaflets on each leaf.

Southern naiad: e stems and leaves of naiadsare slender, with short leaves, usually ¼ to ¾inches long. Leaves are opposite one another, andthis characteristic can be used to separate naiadsfrom all similar species.

Slender spikerush: Slender spikerush can growcompletely underwater and appear as a submergedplant. Slender spikerush has very fine, long, brightgreen filaments that occasionally branch. isspecies looks like green hair and is sometimes re-ferred to as hair grass.

Submersed Plants

45

Hydrilla: is non-native plant’s leaves are smallwith obviously serrated margins, often with one ormore small tooth-like structures on the undersidemid-rib, giving the plant a rough feel. e leavesgrow in whorls of three to eight.

Egeria: Egeria is a non-native plant that hasleaves in whorls of four to six that become densertoward the ends (near the surface). Egeria does nothave midrib teeth and feels smooth.

Bladderworts: Bladderworts are carnivorousaquatic plants characterized by many small blad-ders formed from leaf segments. ey are rootlessplants with alternate, finely dissected leaves. Flow-ers extend above the water surface on tall stalksand are usually purple or yellow but can be white orblue.

Pondweeds: Pondweeds are a varied group ofrooted plants with leaves that are either totallysubmerged or float on the water surface.Pondweeds always have alternate leaves. Flowersand fruits are usually green to brown and are smalland close together in oblong or ball-like spikes.

Submersed Plants

46

Duckweeds: Duckweeds are free-floating greenplants that form blankets on the surface of shel-tered water. Duckweeds are light green with rootshanging below fronds. Duckweeds can be a seriouspest in Mississippi.

Watermeal: Tiny rootless plant that gets its namefrom the fact that it looks and feels like green corn-meal. Watermeal is a free-floating plant that canform blankets on the surface of sheltered water, isdifficult to control, and is a serious pest where itoccurs.

Water hyacinth: Non-native species that usuallyfloat freely in large masses but may be rooted inthe soil in shallow water or wet areas. e leavesare leathery and deep green, with inflated andspongy stems for floatation. e flowers are ashowy spike of up to 20 light purple, blue, and yel-low flowers. is plant can quickly cover a waterbody.

Giant salvinia: is non-native plant is an aquaticfern that floats on the surface of the water. Leavesare in whorls of three, with two opposite leaveswith distinct midrib, and a third submersed leafthat resembles roots. is particularly nasty plantcan form mats several feet thick.

Floating Plants

47

Water lettuce: Water lettuce is a non-native plantthat forms large colonies of floating plants and cancover a small water body in a very short time. eleaves are arranged in rosettes and are pale greento medium green or grayish with deep grooves ra-diating outward. Leaves may be as long as 6inches.

Mosquitofern: Small floating plants with clustersof tiny fern-like leaves; leaves usually ½ to 1 inchacross; grey to green when young and rusty redwhen older. Small roots dangle beneath each leaf.Often found with duckweed.

American lotus: American lotus is a native plantthat has characteristic large, round leaves that maybe floating or emergent. Large showy flowers areyellow, and unique seed pods are characteristic ofthis plant.

Water lily: e water lilies have round, generallyfloating leaves with a deep notch. Flowers usuallyfloat on water surface and are white or yellow.

Floating Plants

Emergent Plants

48

Watershield: is small floating-leaf plant hasgreen kidney bean-shaped leaves that are red onthe underside. e stems and leaf undersides areusually coated in a thick protective slime.

Spatterdock: Also known as yellow cow lily, thisrooted plant has spade-shaped leaves with a deepnotch at the base and small round yellow flowers.e leaves float on the water’s surface but are fre-quently emergent.

Alligatorweed: is non-native plant may befound free-floating, loosely attached, or rooted,and can even grow on dry land. e leaves are op-posite, lance-shaped, and have a distinct midrib.Flowers are white, round, and resemble cloverblooms. Stems are usually hollow.

Water primrose: Primrose has several growthforms, including a vegetative “creeping” form and amore erect flowering form. Leaves are alternating,often on reddish stems, and the flowers are yellow.

Emergent Plants

49

Water willow: is common shoreline plantgrows in moist soil or shallow water. Basal leavesare grass-like, and showy white flowers adorn aleafless stem. Other willow species can be foundnear ponds but differ in that they have alternateleaves.

Smartweed: Smartweed has a distinctly jointedstem, with enlarged joints. Leaves are alternateand lance-shaped. Flowers are typically white,pink, or pale green. Common in any damp or wetarea.

Cattails: is common plant has long, flat leavesthat may be 4 feet or more long, and the character-istic flower spike is long and brown and resemblesa cigar.

Rushes: A common pond edge plant, rushes areextremely variable in appearance but generallyhave round stems and leaves. e leaves are notobvious, often forming a sheath around the stem.

Emergent Plants

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Water pennywort: Pennywort may have a fewfloating leaves or may form large mats that stand afoot or more off of the water’s surface. Leaves aredark green and rounded with indentations andveins radiating from the center.

Hydrolea: Also known as waterpod or waterleaf,hydrolea has characteristic long thorns above leafbases and a small blue flower. is plant can pre-vent bank access in shallow areas.

Parrotfeather: Parrotfeather is a non-nativeplant that has whorled pale-green leaves finely di-vided into many threadlike leaflets. e stem isstout and sparingly branched. Although most ofthe plant is under water, branch tips usually extenda few inches above the water.

Torpedograss: Torpedograss is a growing problemin Mississippi. is non-native plant has alternateleaf blades that are flat to folded and stiff and growat a 45 degree angle from the stem. May grow inwater or on dry land, with tremendous root sys-tems that are difficult to kill.

Emergent Plants

is publication and many others on the management of farm ponds and small lakes are available on the World Wide Web athttp://www.msucares.com

Fourth edition revised by Dr. Wes Neal, Assistant Extension Professor, Wildlife & Fisheries; Dennis Riecke, Mississippi Departmentof Wildlife, Fisheries and Parks; and Glynda Clardy, Natural Resources Conservation Service. Originally published in 1984 as “FarmPond Management” by omas L. Wellborn, Jr., Leader, Extension Wildlife and Fisheries, Mississippi Cooperative Extension Service;A. Jack Herring, Chief of Fisheries, Mississippi Department of Wildlife Conservation; and Ramon Callahan, State Staff Biologist, SoilConservation Service. Second edition published in 1991 as “Managing Mississippi Farm Ponds,” revised by Martin W. Brunson, Ph.D.,Extension Leader/Fisheries Specialist, Department of Wildlife & Fisheries, Mississippi State University; David Franks, Fisheries Biol-ogist, Mississippi Department of Wildlife, Fisheries and Parks; and Harvey Huffstatler, Biologist, Soil Conservation Service. irdedition revised in 1997 by Martin W. Brunson, Dennis Riecke, and Walter Hubbard, Fisheries Biologist, Mississippi Department ofWildlife, Fisheries and Parks.

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Publication 1428 Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in furtherance of Acts ofCongress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. MELISSA J. MIXON, Interim Director (rev 12M-07-10)