managing vessel maintenance & inventory for your nordic
TRANSCRIPT
Managing Vessel Maintenance & Inventory for your Nordic Tug & dinghy
Michael BeemerAnacortesMay 2019
Today’s Topics:• Diesel Engine & Maintenance• Fuel Systems• Electrical Systems • Outboard Engines/Dinghy
Today
• An overview of the systems / maintenace you should be doing on Nordic Tug
• Taught by:• A knowledgeable technician• Technical College Instructor (my regular job )• A boat nut, cruiser, & “Almost famous…”• ABYC Master Technician & Instructor/advisor• And…• Who holds a Masters Degree in Education
What I’ve learned
Electrical issues will prevent your engine from starting
Batteries will last a long time, but we can destroy them quickly
Fuel related issues will make your engine quit
Over heating/lack of maintenance will destroy it
Resources…..Textbook
Resources…..Textbooks
Nigel Calder: Boatowners 4th: ISBN-13: 978-0071790338
Why I enjoy boating in the PNW
My Passion for Boating
My cruising beliefs…
The best way to avoid break-downs is a well maintained boat
Don’t let little things go The best place to fix problems is at
the dock! Be “In Tune” with boat Engine room checks
“In Tune”
Vacu-flush cycle time Engine start time Water pump cycle for no reason Keep a log book Note anomalies, document everything Little things matter,
Major problems usually follow several small problems!
Must haves onboard
Spare Glasses Crew information sheet w/medical Engine maintenance log Service provider information Canadian service provider Flashlights – 1 in every cabin & Dinghy Inside passage spares checklist Expiration Checklist
Safety Equipment
PFD’s – get out look at Make sure you have enough Inflatables: Don’t count for USCG unless wearing it!
Flares: Hand held: make sure everyone knows how to light Aerial: bigger is better ~ 25mm Ensure not expired
Fire extinguishers (more than required) Galley, Engine space, cabins, dinghy Get “Clean Agent”
First aid kit Including antibiotics, & strong pain
Life-sling: Inspect & practice
The ‘early warning system’
Pre-departure checks, daily: Oil level, coolant level, vacuum gauge
Under-way At least once each trip Turn on engine room lighting Open the engine door/hatch Look/Listen/ Smell
After shutdown Making sure The shaft isn’t leaking No pumps are leaking
Sea Trial
What does normal look like? Need to monitor normal operating temp
With full load Does it reach full RPM?
Horsepower & torque directly related If not, figure out why!
But, I don’t do that everyday
Maintenance, engine oil
Oil & filter Manufacture recommendations, always Smaller/older 100-200 hrs, newer up to 375!
But still every 12 months Oil analysis – yes, next slide
Going to S.E. Alaska??? Keep ahead of your mess “If you fail to plan, your planning to fail”
~Beemer, Spring 2016
Oil analysis
Why? Cheap, good info/early
warning systems, resale 1 time analysis is a must
when purchasing boat What does it look like?
Oil analysis, how
It’s easy, you can do it!
Maintenance, changing oil
Doing your own change when out –n- about Getting a mechanic nearly impossible
Have an easy oil change system Like Reverso
Maintenance, changing oil
Tech Tip#123: Put old filter in freezer zip-lock bag
Tech Tip#564: Dollar Store aluminum pans can be bent and fit into tight spaces to prevent a mess
Sacrificial Anodes
Fuel It just needs to be clean This is what will cause your engine to quit running Lots of spare filters for primary
I recommend at least 6 Don’t tolerate leaks!
Filtration:
We’ll talk filters soon, and ”Microns”
Remember a micron is ---->
Fuel When to change filter? Vacuum gauges are wonderful!
Fuel, Filters
Primary Filtration Good system for changing
Electric priming pump best When changing the filter we need to
remove the air Before it gets to high pressure pump
Fuel, Filters
Nice, readily available unit
Racor: Color coded
Watch for:Twist, double gaskets
Cooling System – sea water cooled
Gear cooler
Sea-water side - Impeller
Impeller
Impeller service is every-other- year Doesn’t depend on hours of operation
Unless >400 or 500 hours in a season
Some manufactures are saying every year
Removing the old one Can be difficult
Pullers
Pry bars/screwdrivers
Bolts
Impellor failure
If you open the cover and find missing blades or parts of impellor….
You must go downstream and find them
Closed loop - antifreeze
Follow the manufacture schedule Specific types of antifreeze important It doesn’t last forever Many ‘extended life’ need additives & filters Relies on a heat exchanger
The mixing of hot-n-cold with corrosive fluids Expensive – next slide
Gear CoolersReplace or clean every 5 years
Exhaust elbows: Inspect annually
What a tough life…. Install new @ departure
Early warming systems Every sea-water cooled exhaust
should have a temperature alarm
Maintenance log
What I use….. ….and it’s free!
Microsoft Excel James & Jennifer Hamilton MVdirona.com
Marine Head Maintenance.. The Vacu-Flush
Duck Bills, & Duck Bills, that’s about it
I’ve seen them 8 years with no maintenance
“Crapper Tapper”
Being “In-Tune” with the system
Dinghy/Outboard
Workhorse - critical Supply boat, sight-seeing/exploring,
fishing/crabbing, ticket to shore, etc. Have engine serviced before you leave Over 10 years old – replace all fuel lines Carry spares
Patch kit (if inflatable) Spark Plugs
Anchor Buddy
Considering a new outboard? See me at breaks. Suzuki has EFI!
Lehr, propane!
Outboard Motors, New Technologies
Anchor Buddy
Anchoring
Good bridle 300’ minimum length Stern tie line Logging cable hook Bullworks hook
Alternator Circuit:
Most engine manufactures provide us with automotive style alternators.
Usually not ideal for a cruising vessel
Alternator Circuit:
Updating to 3 stage charging is a must for cruising vessels!
Many options available Worth the $$
Normal, for Marine Tech
How long will they last I’ve seen 14 years on Gel-cell, 20 years ago I’ve heard of 10 years, plenty of times Cruising Vessels 3 – 6 years But….. We can destroy them quickly
Electrical: Discharge vs Cycles
To make them last? 50% rule Also, they are only easy to
recharge (running engine) up to 70%. Wasteful
Use solar, or generator Create a “Balanced” electrical
system
Batteries, replace before you go Sealed Batteries are great! TPPL-Thin Plate Pure Lead
Odyssey Optima
Carbon Foam FireFly
Lithium Ion: Being introduced – still on the cutting edge I’m a big fan EV market/Tesla helping
Monitoring, critical All batteries must be monitored Need aH meter for house Story of our start battery We’ll talk batteries later
Older vessels, update to serpentine belt
Big DC loads Windlass, Davits, Thrusters, & more
Be on the lookout for excessive black dust
Run engines at higher speed when using
Alternator put out very little at idle > 1200 RPM’s
Other good ideas
High bilge alarm – ABYC requirement Bilge pump indicator light
At the helm station(s)
Exhaust Temperature alarm Bilge pump counter Portable back-up bilge pump
Bilge pump in a bucket – next slide
Splash Zone
Portable Bilge Pump in a Bucket
Must have
Rescue Tape Splash Zone
Portable pump
Doctor’s Bag
Hand Tools Allen Wrenches Strap Wrench End Wrenches SAE End Wrench Metric Adjustable Wrench 6" Adjustable Wrench 10" Screw Driver (square) Screw Driver Set Screw Diver Precision Screw Driver 90's Off-set Ratchet Screwdriver Hose Tool Gasket Scraper
Vice Grips - Needle Nose Vice Grips - Regular 10" Pliers Needle Nose Pliers Channel Locks Side Cutters Pipe Wrench Utility Knife Hacksaw (close quarters) Hammer Picks Wire Toothbrush Tweezers Pry Bar
Sealants Rector Seal 5 Form a gasket BoatLife Adhesives Tape - black Tape - duct Rescue Tape Teflon Tape Epoxy Super Glue Electrical Needs Digital Multi-Meter Wiring Connecters Wiring tool
Other Must-Haves WD-40 Zip Ties Emory cloth Permanent Marking Pen Stainless Hose Clamps Gasket materials Scissors Mirror Magnet w/ LED Flashlight
Doctor’s Bag
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