Text and photographs by Dave MitchellMaps by Geographx

MOUNTAIN BIKING SOUTH41 GREAT RIDES IN NEW ZEALAND’S SOUTH ISLAND

For my mountain bike girl, Ditte

Firstly, I need to acknowledge the two intrepid Canadians we encountered on the Heaphy Track in 1985. We were off caving and they were having the time of their lives sin-gle-track riding. This planted the ‘what a fantastic piece of kit’ seed into our collective brains and our first mountain bike purchase soon followed. From then on we rode most weekends, exploring local tracks and the back country be-yond. I would also like to thank my partners in crime Ditte van der Meulen, Joe Arts, Russ Taylor, Pete Braggins, Kathy Lynch, Alison Taylor, Mike Pearce, Guy Wynn-Williams, Dave Fenton, Murray Dwyer, Carol Hides (Wheels), Sharyn Mill-er, Dion Rae, Shane Burmester, Helen Gilroy, Phil and Paul Bainbridge, John Gurr, the Canterbury Mountain Bike Club and the Ground Effect crew. Stephanie Turner provided her vast language skills for the initial proofing of the book, with Ditte keeping me on track. Thanks to all those farmers and landowners who allow access into their special piece of New Zealand, and to all the track builders past and present, especially the early miners who created some of the best mountain bike tracks in the country, without knowing that such things would exist one day.

Forgive me for any errors, omissions and misdirections, and please inform the publisher so that corrections can be made to future editions.

First published in 2010 by Craig Potton Publishing

Craig Potton Publishing98 Vickerman Street, PO Box 555, Nelson, New Zealandwww.craigpotton.co.nz

Reprinted 2011

© Maps by Geographx

© Photography and text: Dave Mitchell

ISBN: 978 1 877517 32 7

Printed in China by Midas Printing International Ltd

This book is copyright. Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of private study, research, criticism or review, as permitted under the Copyright Act, no part may be reproduced by any process without the permission of the publishers.

AcKNOWLEDGMENTS

Descending the Maitai River South Branch Track in style

cONTENTS

Introduction 8

1 Kahurangi Lighthouse 10

2 Rameka Track and Canaan Loop 14

3 Kill Devil Track 17

4 Maungatapu Track 21

5 Dun Mountain–South Maitai 24

6 Beebys Knob 28

7 D’Urville Island 31

8 Nydia Track 34

9 Wakamarina Track 37

10 Cullen Creek–Waikakaho 40

11 Whites Bay Loop–Mt Robertson 43

12 Mt Patriarch 46

13 Half Moon Bay–Okiwi Bay 50

14 Clarence Reserve 53

15 Mokihinui–Lyell Track 56

16 Charming Creek Walkway 59

17 Denniston–New Creek 62

18 Croesus–Moonlight Gold Trail 66

19 Kirwans–Blacks Point Track 69

20 Big River–Waiuta Track 72

21 Paringa Cattle Track 75

22 St James Conservation Area 78

23 Poulter River Valley 81

24 Wharfedale Track 84

25 Summit Road–Double Fence Line 87

26 Dogs Range 90

27 Mesopotamia 94

28 Hopkins River Valley 98

29 Dusky Trail 101

30 Ahuriri Valley 104

31 Pavilion Peak–Melina Ridge Tracks 107

32 East and West Manuherikia 110

33 Mt Buster–Johnstones Creek Track 113

34 Prospect Hill–Omeo Gully Loop 116

35 Rock and Pillar Range 119

36 Government Track 122

37 Cardrona–Roaring Meg Pack Track 125

38 Black Peak and Mt Alaska 128

39 Mt Bee Ridge Track 131

40 Mavora Lakes Park 134

41 Percy Saddle–Borland Road 13741

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INTRODUcTION

This was by no means the first time pioneering Kiwis had used fat-tyred bicycles in the back blocks of New Zealand. Indeed there are stories of adventurous cyclists piloting penny-farthings on little more than goat tracks along the South Island’s wild and rugged West Coast in the late 1800s. The many cycling clubs that thrived around the turn of the nineteenth century had a history of epic trips on rugged tracks and trails, which at the time made up much of the country’s roading network.

The specialised mountain bike provided a strong frame of chromoly steel and a group of components that could take the rough and tumble of off-road riding. They could climb steep hills and descend them without the fear of brake fade or failure, broken forks or bent frames—a per-fect recipe for long distance trips into the unknown with the possibility of returning in one piece.

They have evolved rapidly to become lighter, stronger, suspended and more accessible to the average rider. They float along riverbeds, swoon sweet single-track, descend huge mountains and climb some of the steepest tracks you could imagine. But let’s not forget it takes a rider to push things along, and many of us rose to the challenge and still keep it going to this day.

Alexei Sayle once said ‘They are the most efficient form of movement on the surface of the planet’, and I guess he’s got a point. In fact some experts say it is the most efficient machine ever invented, returning a calorific equivalent of 3000 miles per gallon, in automotive terms. They are a stand up, sit down, walking, running and tramping machine. Hopefully this book will inspire you to turn the pedals and explore New Zealand on your mountain bike, whether it

be local tracks or far-flung ones in the remotest part of the high country. Their magical ability to amplify one’s physical efforts still amazes me after all these years.

Length and difficultyMany of the rides in this book are downright hard and gnarly, requiring a high level of fitness if you want to com-plete the ride. But on the other hand you can break them down into manageable chunks and still enjoy them. They will build stamina and moral fibre, expand your horizons and hopefully help you appreciate what a wonderful place and time we live in.

Weather is the most important factor to consider for any trip, and New Zealand seems to have very variable weather at any time of year. The cornerstone of any ride is to book fine weather with light winds, maybe even a tail wind for the returning leg. River crossings can be just as dangerous for mountain bikers as they are for trampers; soft snow will stop you dead and strong winds can sometimes make rid-ing impossible, especially on the tops.

Maps and navigationThe Department of Conservation (DOC) produces some

excellent pamphlets on mountain biking areas. From my experience they provide good general information but you will still need a New Zealand topo map to navigate your way in detail. This is especially important in the back country, as pre-ride planning with topo maps can give you a good in-dication of the terrain, river crossings, alternate tracks and expected distance and climbing. I take a GPS and compass, and am regularly surprised that where I thought I was on

In the mid 1980s mountain bikes became yet another piece of recreational equipment introduced to New Zealand. Many of the early bikes, resplendent with carriers and pannier bags, were lugged over by American tourists and merely used to cycle-tour New Zealand, based on a perception that we had a rough and ready second-world roading system. Instead they found a network of roads more suited to European touring bicycles or cyclocross mounts. When their owners left the country, most of these bikes were traded or sold into the hands of Kiwis looking for a faster and more efficient way into the back country.

the map was not where the GPS indicated. A GPS can get you out of trouble when the clouds roll in, but remember, it is electronic and can fail at the drop of a hat.

HutsNew Zealand’s hut network is ideal for overnight mountain bike trips. Without huts, the tents, sleeping mats and ex-tra paraphernalia required for a night out make biking so much harder and less accessible. To arrive at a hut with a lightweight sleeping bag and extra food is pure pleasure in comparison, and opens up all sorts of riding possibilities. Treat huts as if you own them, and make room for others as if they own them. Carry out all your rubbish and leave them as you would like to find them. Buy the appropriate hut tickets and expect to pay for private huts.

Water, footprint and responsibilityMost New Zealand streams and rivers provide safe drinking water, just avoid those in farm country that don’t come from a bush gully or the high tops. When doing a tops trip carry adequate water and pre-plan for the fill up points along the way using your topo map. Leave only tyre tracks, and take only air, water, memories and digital images. Ask permis-sion to ride on private land. Most landowners are more than willing to share their back country if it doesn’t interfere with their day to day farming. Leave all gates as you find them and don’t run stock.

Safety and equipmentThe key to survival and having a great trip is firstly prepa-ration, followed by fitness and equipment. Your body, like your bike, should be well maintained and fit for the pur-pose. The ride should be planned and the weather gods and oracles consulted, and their predictions duly noted and acted upon. Gear taken should match the conditions and expected terrain. Plans B, C and D will give you alterna-tive options to head for the best weather and riding condi-tions with less pressure and more pleasure. Pick your riding buddies accordingly. Have fun and ride hard, but don’t be shy about turning back if conditions make it necessary.

Top section of the Croesus–Moonlight Gold Trail

Grading1 Flat and relatively smooth, suitable for those

starting out.2 Mainly flat, with short gradual climbs that require

some fitness and skill.3 More challenging climbs and terrain requiring a

medium level of fitness and skill.4 Challenging climbs, descents and technical

riding requiring a good level of skill and fitness. May involve some bike carrying.

5 Gnarly and long climbs with challenging descents and technical riding requiring a high level of skill and fitness. Some bike carrying required.

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Manufactured in England in sections and riveted together on site, it was up and running by 1903. The big earthquake of 1929 triggered a landslide that wiped out the three origi-nal keepers’ houses and cracked the lighthouse tower and lens. It was repaired by 1931 and has been blazing ever since. The coastline further south is wild and inhospitable, with a jumble of massive rocks peeling off into the sea.

On the return trip, you can ride the beach section from the Turimawiwi River all the way back to Anatori along the base of a series of spectacular sheer cliffs. It’s just a matter

of getting the tide right or you may get washed out to sea or stuck on the rocks until the next low tide.

To avoid corrosion, wash the sand and salt thoroughly off your bicycle with clean water.

To get to Whanganui, take the road north from Colling-wood before turning west at Seaford onto Pakawau Bush Road and then south onto Dry Road. A gravel road snakes over the many causeways of the inlet and heads to the coast at Paturau, before continuing south to the Anatori River through remote and spectacular scenery. Nikau, flax and southern rata surround the camp spot at the mouth of the river, the Tasman Sea crashes onto the beach, and limestone cliffs head up the valley, making this is an idyllic base to pedal from.

A 4WD ford crosses the Anatori and the track climbs for a few hundred metres, with spectacular views up and down the coast, before dropping down to the bach settlement on the banks of the Turimawiwi River. Cross its slippery bottom and skirt the sand dunes next to the river to arrive on the beach. The departing tide usually leaves a surface of hard, flat sand to ride south upon.

Salty air invades the nostrils as you head down the coast, past limestone outcrops and gullies that support tree ferns and nikau. Sand hills flow inland and beyond them a thin band of farmland stretches little more than a kilometre to the bush-covered hills. This land was laboriously cleared and burnt before the turn of the century and became one of the remotest farming communities in the South Island. Bright green fields are dotted with equally bright white sheep, well washed by the frequent West Coast rain. Fresh-water streams cross the hard sand, forming shallow runnels and pushing streams of coloured sand back to the sea.

You soon arrive at the Anaweka River, where hopefully the estuary is in the last throes of emptying out the high tide and all the fresh water that has backed up behind it. If not, you can pick a high point on top of the adjacent grassy dune to refuel and observe the water level dropping. Patience is a virtue and much better than getting washed out into the Tasman Sea. After crossing safely, pedal on down the beach through coastal rock shelves to the large rock outcrops of the Big River estuary. This is the final major river crossing of the ride.

Unlike the Anaweka estuary, which drains quickly (about one hour before low tide) and stays low for three or four hours afterwards, Big River is only low enough to cross 20 to 30 minutes before low tide and then for about one hour afterwards. The best place to cross is diagonally from an old tractor rotting away gracefully on the mud flats that head along the estuary’s north side. From the rocky exit, ride back to the beach for a short sprint to Kahurangi Point.

The top of the lighthouse will now be visible. Beside the beach an old corrugated iron farm shed is still standing on a grassy terrace, and a track just a little further down the coast leads to the DOC hut. Sheltered by old macrocarpa trees, the 25-bunk hut with its big verandah and view of the sea makes a great base for further exploration. It was the last keeper’s house, built before the light was automated in 1959.

From the hut, head through the wind-blown scrub and long grass to the white and rust-stained cast iron lighthouse.

Rock mushroom below the Kaipuke cliffs at Anatori

KAHURANGI LIGHTHOUSEcOLLINGWOOD WEST, GOLDEN BAy

As the West Coast unfolds south from Farewell Spit, it encounters Whanganui (Westhaven) Inlet and below it a long beach that stretches to Kahurangi Point and beyond. When whalers first came to Westhaven Inlet, they also discovered coal, and the resident Ngati Rua tribe used it as a valuable trading commodity. Eight years after the 1852 Collingwood gold rush, Maori discovered gold while prospecting at Salty Creek, and overnight the rush was on. A large area behind Lake Otuhie called the Golden Blocks was extensively mined, and relics of old boilers, stampers and mining paraphernalia still remain.

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Maps: M25 Collingwood, L25 KahurangiDistance: 32 km returnClimbing: 205 metresGrade: 2Notes: Tide tables from www.niwascience.co.nz/services/tides forecast high and low tides anywhere in coastal waters around New Zealand for up to 28 days.Recommended reading: North of Kahurangi, West of Golden Bay by Carol Dawber and Cheryl Win, which has lots of excellent black and white photos.

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RAMEKA TRAcK AND cANAAN LOOpABEL TASMAN NATIONAL pARK

High on the Pikikiruna Range, at the end of the narrow and winding Canaan Road, are two exceptional pieces of single track. The Rameka Track is hidden in the forest of the Abel Tasman National Park, and the Canaan Loop winds among rocky outcrops and bush remnants on top of the ‘marble mountain’. The first was built around the turn of the nineteenth century as a pack track into Takaka; and the second accesses a remote farm in the Pikikiruna high country, which was originally cleared in the 1920s. The longer ride up and back from Takaka is our preference, though a shorter trip can be made by using Canaan Road as access.

From Glenview Road at the back of Takaka, a wide and friendly gravel road runs beside Rameka Creek heading up the Rameka valley. The river flats and lower slopes of the surrounding hills have been colonised by young totara and patches of manuka, providing shade on hot Golden Bay days. The road finally fords the creek and climbs steeply to the west. Benched single track materialises on your right in the form of Project Rameka’s Great Expectations. This track climbs through part of the 50-hectare property that Jonathan Kennett and Bronwen Wall bought as a carbon sink, focusing on forest restoration, biodiversity and non-motorised recreation. It pops out back on the road for the final stretch to the start of the old Rameka pack track.

The luscious single track disappears into mature native forest and over rocks of marble, sidling onto a granny gear climb. This ascends through cutover bush at the forest edge before re-entering the forest for good. An extremely gnarly but short climb grunts over roots on a clay base, before a series of twists and turns brings you to a low saddle from where the track follows the 800-metre contour. The result is a long and superb section of riding mixed with technical creek crossings below a high canopy of beech trees, rimu, dracophyllum , and tree ferns.

This section ends at Pages Saddle, where you break out into the open to look over the relatively new Canaan Downs Scenic Reserve. This is still a working farm, but thanks to DOC, the local MTB clubs and money from Ground Effect’s slush fund, stunning pieces of single track now join an old 4WD farm track from one end of the farm to the other to

form the Canaan Loop. From Pages Saddle head east and uphill to Wainui Saddle. There is a beautiful bush section followed by gnarly single track just before the saddle.

From the Wainui Saddle, a large orange marker beck-ons you through a farm gate and onto more sweet single track. The track flows along the 900-metre contour among the skeletons of fallen trees just below the bush edge. The creeks have been lined with giant stones, and old logs create shoots, jumps and slalom courses. The track circles below Mt Evans to a high point above the Gold Creek catchment before descending in a series of bermed switchbacks to the south end of the farm and eventually the Canaan Road.

After a short stint on the road heading north you pick up the second loop track, in the lower part of the farm, through a gate just after the only ford on the road. Follow the orange arrows and Golds Creek through a mini gorge before the track heads north, climbing to an open lookout point. A fast downhill ensues to the woolshed track, which heads down to the picnic and camping spot at the end of Canaan Road.

After refuelling, head northeast through the national park boundary gate, and climb back up to Pages Saddle ready for the return ride down the remarkable Rameka Track. It’s like riding a new track and you have the Project Rameka single track to look forward to on your descent back into the Rameka valley and eventually the outskirts of Takaka. It’s hard to find two such great and very different single tracks in one place, whichever way you ride them.

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KILL DEvIL TRAcKUppER TAKAKA, GOLDEN BAy

The Kill Devil Track has a checquered history. It was initially built as a pack track to service the gold workings of the Stanley and Anatoki area. It was subsequently used as a stock track to a cleared area on the Lockett Range, which provided grazing for sheep. Consequently, a musterers’ hut (Riordans Hut) was built on the tops just above the start of Sams Creek. The track never curried much favour with the tramping fraternity but attained an awesome reputation among early mountain bikers. A route with 58 switchbacks in the initial 800-metre climb is not to be sneezed at and remains to this day a challenge for all those who bike it.

The Kill Devil Track starts in Golden Bay near the bottom of the Takaka Hill. Turn onto Uruwhenua Road and after about 3 kilometres the Kill Devil Track is signposted among a clus-ter of farmhouses. Bike due west on a gravel road through farmland and into a forestry block. The intention book you sign at the start of the track shows how many mountain bikers have risen to the challenge. The road is left behind and benched single track prevails.

The old miners knew how to build a robust well-graded track, and it has for the most part remained in great condition to this day. The track gradually climbs on a long, grassy terrace, crossing hidden side streams before

entering the bush. This is regenerating beech, with tree ferns and broadleaves making the most of the cool, damp gullies. The grade soon steepens as you start grovelling up a narrow ridge between Snelling and Camp creeks before breaking out of the bush into stunted manuka with ankle-biting gorse at the edge of the track.

The first switchbacks are a challenge, but the smooth surface gives a good run up to the tight corners. About halfway up, the base material of the track becomes rocky but good traction remains; it only requires more effort to master the turns. Eventually a combination of erosion and larger rocks makes some of the upper switchbacks unride-able, except for magicians on wheels—legend has it that all but two corners have been ridden.

Just below the summit a small stream is signposted, and this is one of the few places to fill up before the ridge top. The quartz sandstone on the tops sustains stunted vegeta-tion that is severely windblown and exposed to the worst of the weather. There is a good spot at the thousand-metre mark to have a break, refuel and enjoy the view.

Out east is the Takaka Valley and beyond it Abel Tasman National Park. To the west, the Waingaro River snakes out towards Takaka from Lake Stanley. Across the Waingaro are Devil River Peak and the Devil Range, which often remain partly obscured by black, westerly cloud—accompanied by ominous forked lightning on our trip.

The Kill Devil Track beyond Tin Hut Shelter

Map: N26 TakakaDistance: Rameka 22 km, Canaan 20 kmClimbing: Rameka 950 metres, Canaan 445 metresGrade: Rameka 3, Canaan 2Notes: Both tracks can be ridden all year round, but please avoid them in the wet. For more information on Project Rameka go to: http://projectrameka.carbonsink.org.nz/ or email: projectrameka@kennett.co.nz Project Rameka is a registered charitable entity.

Above Single-track heaven on Canaan DownsAbove right Dry creek crossing on the Rameka Track

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Maps: M26 Cobb, N26 TakakaDistance: 44 km return Climbing: 1820 metresGrade: 4Notes: Weather can come in rapidly but the track is quick to ride down. There are only two reliable water sources, as mentioned above. The Kahurangi National Park Management Plan is currently under review and will hopefully allow mountain biking as far as Waingaro Forks Hut in the near future.

The track heads along the Lockett Range in style for a further 6 kilometres to Riordans Hut. It’s technical and challenging with fast, smooth, open sections that you can fly down in big ring, though gnarly, rocky descents blasted out of steep country allow little room for error. You encounter more switchbacks as the track drops down a tight ridge before resuming on another great section of fast single track to the hut turnoff.

This historic hut has been refurbished and provides great views east. Back on the main track you can descend to Skeet Creek into cool, green beech forest, to refill your water bottles. This marks the boundary of Kahurangi National Park, so is as far as DOC allows mountain bikes to go. The benched track continues leaf-littered and seductive all the way to the Waingaro Forks Hut. In the vicinity of the hut, piles of neatly stacked rocks are all that remain of old gold workings long forgotten, and the bush is slowly swallowing them up.

The return along the ridge is just as challenging and as much fun in reverse. Before long you arrive back at the top of the switchback, ready for the downhill and the perfect storm. If you have enough spare energy you may be able to clean all 58 switchbacks. It ends too soon as the long grass arrives suddenly, and you freewheel along the farm track past cows and sheep to the main road. The devil hasn’t finished with you yet though, as you have to cross Satan Creek to head for home.

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