mariam vizcaÍno prof. “referentes culturales de la...
TRANSCRIPT
MARIAM VIZCAÍNO
Prof. “Referentes Culturales de la Moda”
OPERA: A NEW ARENA FOR HAUTE COUTURE.
THE CASE OF CHRISTIAN LACROIX
I. FASHION DESIGNERS AT THE OPERA
Viktor & Rolf, Fall-Winter, 2009-2010
Picasso, Van Gogh, Mondrian, Wesselmann and Matisse as inspiration in Yves Saint Laurent's Works
Opera glistens in its own light when the costumes that inhabit it brush perfection
“What matters is the
collaboration of all arts”
Gustav Mahler
COSTUME IS AN ESSENTIAL ASPECT OF STAGING
19th CENTURY
PUCCINI WAGNER
WEBER VERDI
FASHION DESIGNERS AT THE OPERA
ERTÉ
Manon, La Boheme, I’l Pagliacci, Faust, Don Pasquale,The Barber of Sevilla,
Las mamellas de Tiresias, La Traviata, Cossi fan tutte, Caccia al Tesoro,
Gonzague, Caxtor et Pollus, Der Rosenkavalier
CEACIL BEATON
Turandot
MARIANO FORTUNY
Tristan und Isolde
At the beginning of the 20th
“Les Troyens”, Theatre alla Scala, 1982
KARL LAGERFELD
MISSONI
“Norma”, Arena di Verona, 1986
ROBERTO CAPUCCI
“Cendrillon”, Opéra-Comique (Salle Favart), 1986
CHRISTIAN LACROIX
“Orfeo ed Euridice”, Monte Carlo Opera, 1987
MARC BOHAN
“Salome”, Teatro alla Scala, 1987
VERSACE
“The Dream of Valentino”, Washington National Opera , 1994
VALENTINO
“Così Fan Tutte”, Royal Opera House, 1995
ARMANI
“Tristan und Isolde”, Bayreuth, 1995
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
“Farnace”, Teatro de la Zarzuela, 2001
JESÚS DEL POZO
VIVIENNE WEESTWOOD
“Aida”, San Franciso Opera, 2007
ZANDRA RHODES
"Der Freischütz”, Festspielhaus Baden-Baden, 2009
VIKTOR & ROLF
“La Clemenza di Tito”, Teatro San Carlo, 2010
UNGARO
“Attila,” Metropolitan Opera, 2010
PRADA
Opera is a cultural event blessed with an indisputable prestige since its beginnings
The fact that since its naissance Opera had to exalt its promoters explains why
it was constituted as a refined show
Christian Lacroix, Adriana Lecouvreur, Statisterie der Oper Frankfurt, 2011
WRITTERS
ARTISTS
JOURNALISTS
PROFESSORS
ACTORS
POLITICIANS
STUDENTS
In addition to a strong social prestige Opera holds an significant presence in the cultural sphere
Many opera performances are broadcasted to thousands of viewers across the world in big cinemas
z
Through internet streaming from big Opera houses
In established and widespread cultural channels such as the prestigious medici.tv
French TV network artelive
Miuccia Prada, “Attila”, 2010
The presence of fashion designers in music temples has a very significant media impact
both on the press and in the digital world
Centre N
ational du Costum
e de Scène o
f M
ou
lins in
Fran
ce.
“Centre National du Costume de Scène” of Moulins in France.
There are specific centers specialized in costume preservation which promote attractive temporary
exhibitions resulting a huge media impact
II. OPERA AS A PLACE OF FREEDOM
Viktor & Rolf, ”Der Freischutz”, 2009
Opera is an medium for the costume designer to excel in his creations since he is confronted with a
complex task but is ridded of the obstacles and restrictions imposed by the market system
Opera is a space of liberty and cooperation where only the rules of art prevail
Viktor & Rolf, ”Der Freischutz”, 2009
Karl Lagerfeld, Grand Palais de Paris, 2012
A place of freedom as opposed to the enclosed and egocentric haute couture world
The 1913 opera “Victory over the sun” was a crucial contribution because it gave birth to the supremacist
theory which made Malevich a visionary of abstract art
An artistic laboratory in which to freely experiment with the fusion of styles
Malevich, sketches for Opera “Victory over Sun”, 1913
Opera became a showcase of vanguards, allowing a wider promotion of the movement. Should fashion
follow this example, it would probably obtain the same prolific results as the vanguards did at the start
of the last century
III. CHRISTIAN LACROIX, A PARADIGMATIC EXAMPLE
LACROIX‟S OPERA PRODUCTIONS
Acteon
Thèâtre des Champs
Elisées
Dido and Aeneas
Thèâtre des Champs
Elisées
Theodora
Öpera de Bilbao
Carmen
Nîmes Arènes
Cendrillon
Opéra-Comique (Salle Favart)
2001
2002 1989 1986
LACROIX‟S OPERA PRODUCTIONS
Die Frau ohne Schatten
Thèâtre de la Monnaie,
Bruselas
Cossì fan tutte
Théâtre de la Monnaie,
Bruselas.
Don Giovanni
Festival d’Innsbruck y
en Baden-Baden
Maria Golovin
Opera de Marseille/
Festival de Spoleto
Les arts florissants y
La descente d‟Orphee
aux Enfers
Cité de la Musique, Paris
Heliogabalo
Thèâtre de la Monnaie,
Bruselas
Il re pastore
Thèâtre de la Monnaie,
Bruselas/ Luxenburgo/
Como, Pavia, Innsbruck
Festival
2005
2006
2004
2003
LACROIX‟S OPERA PRODUCTIONS
Agrippina
Berlin State Opera
Candide
Staatsoper im Schiller
Theater, Berlin
Aida
Oper Köln, Colonia
Don Pasquale
Oper Köln, Colonia
Adriana Lecouvreur
Oper Frankfurt
Salomé
Theater St Gallen
I Capuleti e i
Montecchi
Munich
Le Bourgeois,
gentilhomme
Théâtre des Bouffes du
Nord, Paris.
Madame Butterfly
Hamburg State Opera
Fortunio
Opera Comique, Paris
Les nozzes di Figaro
Festival d’Aix en Provence/
Luxemburgo
2011
2012
2009 2007
NOW
Inspiration and cultural references
Costume History
Cinema
Arts Photography
Ancestral traditions
AESTHETIC GHOST
"Every man needs aesthetic ghosts in order to live. I have pursued them, sought them, hunted them down”
Yves Saint-Laurent
His home town is one of the most beautiful cities of Provence, bursting of light and color and imbued
with the joie de vivre and nonchalance typical of the French Midi
ARLES
Oliver Messel
LONDON
Cecil Beaton
LONDON
“My Fair Lady” Ascot scene by Cecil Beaton, bromide print, 1958
LONDON
Lacroix always cherished My Fair Lady stills of Ascott which perfectly capture the elegant and
stylish universe that has is a trademark of the Beaton house
LONDON
He is fatally attracted to Spain and is dazzled by the brilliant torero costumes, earthy colors and the
baroque excess of Andalucía
ANDALUCÍA
The essential characteristics of Lacroix’s style
THE STYLE
Thanks to his arrogant sense of humor Lacroix constructs garments with a comic and
disconcerting insolence
ALCHEMY
His feast of alarming colors –an explosion of „joei de vivre‟ and genius- are well acclaimed in the
Opera world where a tradition of luxurious arrogance still prevails
ALARMING COLORS
Lacroix is addicted to fabrics to such an extent that his proposals setback asceticism in favor of
splendor and magnificent, sumptuous cloths
TRAGIC OPULENCE
He is convinced that a women is a diva
THEATRICAL VISION
Lacroix and Opera
Every Sunday his grandfather made him listen to an opera on the radio in religious silence
MUSIC AS A SACRED RITUAL
Little Christian was fascinated by Maria Callas, due to the way she sang as to the sublime
passion of her arias
AMBIENCE OF OPERA DEVOTION
After attending a performance Lacroix redesigned the set and costumes in his own manner,
reintroducing new color balances and reinventing shapes and forms
A HOBBY
CARMEN
COSSI FAN TUTTE
AGRIPPINA
CONCLUSION
Jeanne Paquin, La Cote d'Azur, 1914, George Barbier, La Gazette du Bon Ton
In 1914 Jeanne Paquin had a splendid idea of inviting young actresses dressed in her fashion models to
Opera in order to promote her new fashion collection
”Gala at La Scala” by Alfred Eisenstaedt, 1934
Since Opera‟s origin, the foyer and box seats have been privileged places to market the latest trends to
elegant and sophisticated high-society women. But Paquin‟s genius occurrence managed to convert
these seats into “conscious diffusion” places.
Still, at the turn of the 20th century a much more visible place than the box seats has been conquered by
designers: the stage
This innovative window display increases renowned fashion designers‟ prestige by associating their
creations with one of the most refined dramatic arts.
In addition, Opera is a place for intimate and human liberty, where haute couture creators can display
their stunning imaginations without any market restrictions
Antoine Raspal, “The Dressmaker” in Arles Museum Arlaten, 1795
An easy space to adapt to for haute couture designers as has been seen through Christian Lacroix‟s
career path
The designer who wishes to approach this new arena needs to possess a strong artistic personality,
must be familiarized with music and conscious of the demands of dramatic action
OPERA AS A NEW ARENA FOR
HAUTE COUTURE IS A FUTURE
OPTION FOR THE FASHION
WORLD. HOPEFULLY, A
FRUITFUL AND INSPIRED
CONTRIBUTION BETWEEN
BOTH WORLDS WILL ARISE.
