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MIXOLOGY

ModernModifiersLiqueurs allow mixologists to add complexity to new cocktails

and create variations on oldfavorites

BY AMBER DREA

A s cocktail culture continues to spread

A th.oughout the country, bartenders

/- \are tuming to liqueurs for a slew offunctions in the making of mixed drinks. Thewide range of liqueurs that are currently onthe market provides mixologists with an

endless variety of flavors, aromas and even

colors that can be incorporated into their cock-

tails. Numerous high-quality, artisanal brands

offer natural taste profiles that can enhance

fresh ingredients or serve as substitutes whenspecific produce isn't available. \7hile oftenplaying the role ofsupporting cast, liqueurs can

also be the stars for lighter libations."Mixology is starting to be absorbed by the

mainstream and more volume-oriented venues,

which may not have time to press fresh pome.

granate into a drink," says Eben Freeman, directorof bar operations and innovation for the Altamarea

Group in New York City. "Bartenders are nowtrying to figure out how to incorporate the prin-ciples of classic mixology into a cocktail and stillmake 150 servings of that drink in one night."

Darryl Robinson, a Manhattan-based mixologistand host of the Cooking Channel show "Drinkup," also finds that liqueurs help bartenders create

great tasting cocktails without a lot of effort. "Withliqueurs, you get all those flavor profiles up frontwithout having to boil down and macerate your ownfruit to create a syrup," he explains. "Liqueurs make

your life easier."

On the West Coast, mixologist Lucien Conner ofthe San Diego consulting firm Snake Oil Cock.tail Co. has noticed a trend toward lower-proof

drinla that use liqueurs to reduce the alcohol

28 MARKET wATcH I NovEMBER 2011

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; while adding flavor. "The general

- r: i population is focusing on craft cocktails

h;,-'o 'i, ,'J,.*, and spirits-forward drinks, so we'relii 1,. :' .i.. *.*.'r*'r::,', t.*,ry shiftingawayfromhigh-alcoholspirits,"

r ,, j., ,:,,{si?$, drink craft cocktaiis made with straightv - .ffii Bourbon or gin all night. People are:r'i:i"'"

" '.. '.|1 startingwithdrinksthatareonthe, | ;$ r''i{': 'i\'

'..,,*'' '":lri'"., lighter side and transitioning

' * .: n ":rrlririr throughout the evening."

:t - ,.iiri::r ' ." . I Kris Von Dopek, the beverage:: j l

fu,-.,.$t*,r manager at Duchamp restaurant in'tr.;

€ Chicago, notes that liqueurs are particulariyprominent in the colder seasons, when fresh

r! i,,' fruits aren't readily accessible. "You see liqueurs

i:. ;i,, ,.: year'round, but they definitely play a more'iri ' significant role in cocktails in the fall and

winter," he says.

. The Fruit FactorBrands like Bols, Marie Brizard and DeKuyperoffer dozens offruit-flavored liqueurs, from apricotto watermelon and everything in between. "You'regetting very zesty liqueurs these days," says Robinson,

. who touts the quality and versatility of the Marie

:i .. Brizard line. "ltl not like the old days back in theBOs and '70s when they were mostly sugar. There

.; '" are liqueurs now that can add reaily good proper-

craftiness." For the 2011 Thles of the Cocktail inNew Orleans, the mixologist created the Apry Opry,

The Blaod E Hurey cocktail. conpris e s Wild TurkeyAmericmt Honey Liqueur, SLly InJLsioru BloodOrange uodka, citrus juices cmd.bitters.

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The Palace Ceilar Aeft) mires King's Qinger liqueur, Pink Pigem nmL, lefltmt iuice, sctrspanlla syrup, pmvgrdnate bitters and carbm'nted

water, while the Qolden Ca1illacUi* qatn-I-lAutenticoliqueur, Boh White Criryne dB Caccn, cream and' shaqted dmk chacolate.

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mixed with Marie Brizard Apry apricot iiqueur, Maker's MarkBourbon, lemon juice and egg white, served in a cinnamon'sugar-rimmed glass.

Von Dopek frequently incorporates Mathilde liqueurs intococktails at Duchamp. "(Jsing liqueurs in conjunction withnectars or pur6es that we make in house helps bump up the

flavor," Von Dopek explains. La Modena ($12) features a rasp'

berry shrub made with Mathilde Framboise, Moon MountainDark Raspberry vodka, Veev agai spirit, fresh lime juice and

soda, while the Pear Shaped ($12) blends Mathilde Poire,

Plantation Barbados rum, pear nectar, lime juice, simple syrup

and nutmeg. "The Pear Shaped is a riff on a Daiquiri," he adds.

"And the fresh nutmeg brings out that fall spiced flavor."

Snake Oil's Conner is impressed with the level of crafts-

manship going into many artisanal brands that have entered

the cocktail scene. "'We're seeing a lot of high-quality liqueurs

that weren't in the market before," he says. "There are some

organic American producers that are making better spirits."

He points to the eaux de vie from Portland, Oregon's Clear

Creek Distillery, which produces Williams Pear and Mirabelle

Plum brandies made with locally grown fruits. French distillerGabriel Boudier recently unveiled its Mixologist Range

liqueurs, which cater to bartenders and inciude fruit flavors

like Apple, Lychee, Tiiple Sec and Williams Peat, as well as

the floral-citrus Parfait Amour. The Fresh Apple Martinimixes Gabriel Boudier Mixologist Range Apple, Biue Ice

vodka, lemon juice, agave nectar and muddled apple.

Pur Spirits in San Francisco imports a line of artisanal German

spirits, including Prir Likor \Tilliams pear liqueur and Piir LikorSpice blood orange liqueur. The brand's Pear Sour cocktailcomprises Ptir Likor Williams, Macchu Pisco, lemon juice,

simple slrup and egg white, dusted with Chinese five spice. Andthe \Tinter Punch features Piir Likor Spice floated atop amixture of Ravenswood Zinfandel, star anise, cardamom pods,

orange zest, crushed peppercoms and honey.

A number of new orange liqueurs have come out within the

last year. In April, Beam launched John DeKuyper & Sons'

03 Premium Orange liqueur, which is distilled from the rind,juice and pulp of the Brazilian pera citrus fruit. The company

markets the liqueur in drinks like the Cadillac Rio Margarita,mixing 03, Sauza Blue Silver Tequila, lime juice and agave

nectar. Mixologists have also begun gravitating toward the

newly re-introduced Mandarine Napol6on orange liqueur.Dushan Zaric of Employees Only in New York City created

the Imperial Sour, made with Mandarine Napol6on, Domaine

de Canton ginger liqueur, lemon juice and egg white. Thebrand also recommends using the liqueur in an Old Fashioned

with Bourbon and Angostura bitters.Some marketers are trying new approaches with their

liqueurs. Altamarea's Freeman worked with Pama to developa variety of new cocktails for the popular pomegranate

liqueur. "l wanted to get away from the idea of the pome'

granate-flavored Margarita or the pomegranate-flavored

Mojito and think about Pama as something that adds texture

NOVEr\,,lBER 2011 | r\,4ARKET WIrCH 29

Liqaeur-Based Co chtail Recipes

THE PERFECT MISTBy Darryl Robinson

tTi,l'Jif;,.BrizardparfaitAmour; *!#@ *"l ounceSobieskivodka; ffin. };

3ff:?..fff;,i:1"., qpr5-6 mint leaves, plus 1 sprig.

llJb?.rou*o -dF,r.T::lTh!*.in, frwhite and mint leaves in a shak

::il:;[:intoacouPeglms' Garnishwith

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FORBIDDEN SOURBy Eben Freeman

Ingredients:1 ounce Pama liqueur;I ounce Evan rVilliams

Single Barrel Bourbon;1 ounce lemon juice;

lz otnce simple syrup;

Ormge wheel.

Recipe:Fill a rocls glass with ice md set mide.

Combine liqueur, Bourbon, lemon juice and

simple syrup in a shaker, add ice and shake

vigorously. Strain into the glass and garnish

with an orange wheel.

PEARBy Kris

Ingredients:1 ounce Marhilde Poire;

SHAPEDVon Dopek

2 ounces Plantation Barbados rum;1 ounce pear nectar;

I ounce lime juice;

lz otnce simple syrup;

Fresh grated nutmeg,

Recipe:

Shake liqueur, rum, nectat juice and

simple syrup with ice md srrain into a

coupe glms. Top with nutmeg.

?

30 MARKET WATCH I NOVEMBER 2011

and body to a drink," Freeman explains. "The liqueur has

sweetness, but it also has acidity and tannins that reallycreate structure, which is sometimes missing from cocktails.Pama can add body without throwing offthe balance of sweet

and sour too much." He also finds that it works really wellwith darker spirits, like whiskies, rums and brandies. TheForbidden Sour comprises Pama, Evan Williams Single BarrelBourbon, lemon juice and simple syrup, and the TruffledAlexander features Pama, Christian Brothers brandy, crEme

de cacao, and half and half.

Garden In A Bottle'lUhile fruit liqueurs dominate the category, floral flavors are

gaining momentum, thanks in part to the classic cocktailmovement. St-Germain elderflower liqueur is the star of thissegment, having reached the status of essential bar ingredientin the last couple of years. "St-Germain has completely takenover the United States," Conner of Snake Oil says. "lt's amaz-

ingly easy to make a good cocktail with St-Germain."Ivy Mix, a bartender for Lani Kai in Manhattan and Clover

Club in Brooklyn, New York, agrees. "People say that nothaving Angostura bitters on the bar is like not having salt andpepper-l would put St-Germain at that level," she says. Mixsubstitutes St-Germain for everything from Lillet aperitif tosweet vermouth to maraschino in cocktail recipes, or she'lladd the elderflower liqueur to a classic like a Tom Collins fora refreshing twist.

The liqueur works with a variety of spirits too. "l frequentlyuse St-Germain with gin, and St-Germain and Tequila go

wonderfully together," Mix says. "lt's also really interesting towork with St-Germain in more intricate ways so it doesn'ttake over the cocktail. It's a very good bridge." She and mixol-ogist Natalie Jacobs won a recent competition with theirApple Bottoms Up cocktail, comprising St-Germain, tropicalmango black tea-infused Laird's Applejack, jalapeflo-infused

Herradura Blanco Tequila, pineapple demerara syrup andlemon juice.

Other brands have developed floral liqueurs as well. PtirLikor's portfolio includes an elderflower expression calledBlossom, and Hum botanical spirit is a rhum-based liqueurcomprising hibiscus, ginger root, cardamom and kaffir lime.At 51/z Bar in Pensacola, Florida, the !7est Indies Paintbrush($7) is made with Hum, Brinley's Coconut rum and lemonjuice, topped with soda. And Novato Califomia-based producer

Tempus Fugit recently unveiled Liqueur de Molettes, whichis made from French violets using on a l9th-century recipe. "lcould drink Liqueur de Violettes on the rocks," Snake Oil'sConner says.

Likewise, Marie Brizard introduced its 3O-percent alcohol-by-volume (abv) Essence pordolio, which features Violet,Jasmine, Rosemary Tea, Cinnamon and Spicy Mix expressions.

The line was developed for mixologists who seek liqueurs withless sugar, higher alcohoi content, natural flavors, aromaticsimplicity and no added color. "l love mixing Cinnamon withfresh oranges, and Tea works well with peach and mint," says

Emile Chaillot, beverage and cocktail consultant for Marie

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Birzard.'Jasmine matches perfectly withcucumber and coriander, and Rose'

mary complemenb cheny tomatoes

and basil." The Rosy SnapperMartini comprises Marie BrizardRosemary Essence, Sobieski vodka, muddled

cherry tomatoes and basil, celery salt,'Worces'

tershire sauce and lemon juice. MarieBrizard's base tier also features a Parfait

Amour liqueuq made from sweet Spanish

oranges, orange blossoms and vanilla pods.

Robinson's The Perfect Mist mixes Marie

Brizard Parfait Amour, Sobieski vodka, lemonjuice, egg whites and mint leaves.

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Thz Afterlife cunprk es Fr angelico,Espolmr Tequila, chili. chnamon syt'rp'

heather honey, herbs and spices, is knownfor the classic Rusty Nail, which mixesequal parts Drambuie and Scotch. One ofthe most successful cocktails that Snake

Oil Cocktail Co. created within the last

year features Pimm's No. 1, a British gin'based

liqueur that blends spice and citrus flavors.

The drink, dubbed the Peter Rabbit ($12)

and served at Searsucker restaurant in San

Diego, comprises Pimm's, lemon juice,

bruised basil and a pickled carrot. "Thatcocktail sold more than 11,000 units last

year, which is like 56 cases of Pimm's,"Conner says. "\7e're trying to introducespirits like Pimm's to the everyman."

Another liqueur that Conner has been

touting as a cocktail ingredient is King'sGinger, a 41-percent abv ginger liqueur

Italian herbal biner liqueurs are also gaining lenvniuice mtdwmmwwdbitters.

prominence as cocktail ingredients. Many

bartenders are substituting amaro for sweet vermouth in cock-

tails. "You get less of the wine and quinine flavors, more of the

fruits and sometimes more herbaceousness, depending on the

produced by London-based Berry Bros. & Rudd. "With a

product that's really high quality and has a familiar flavorlike ginger, it's a lot easier for people to get behind,"Conner says. The Palace Cellar cocktail mixes King'samaro you're using," Conner of Sn ake Oil says. "Some have

more residual sugar as well." He

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adds that amaro is also being used

as a base spirit. "Within the cock-

tail subculture, amaro on therocks, amaro and soda, and amaro

with an orange twist are popular

drinks," Conner says. "My friendmakes a Fernet Mule, mixingFemet Branca amaro, ginger beer

and fresh lime juice."

Galliano L"Autentico is an

herbal Italian liqueur that's expe'

riencing a resurgence in cocktails

after being reintroduced with its

original recipe in 2008. Theliqueur combines vanilla with a

blend of botanicals, includingjuniper, anise and yarrow musk,

and is used in classic drinks likethe Harvey Wallbanger and theYellow Bird. In October, the brand

promoted the Golden Cadillaccocktail, made with Galliano,Bols \7hite Crdme de Cacaoliqueur, cream and shaved darkchocolate, durrng a tour featuring

agold1979 Cadillac Deville thathit several California cities,including San Diego, Los Angeles

and San Francisco.Herbal liqueurs from the United

Kingdom are gamering some atten-

tion stateside as well. Dambuie, a

blend of Scotch whisky, Scottish

NOVEMBER 2011 I MARKET WATCH 31

The Winter Punch (abwe) cornbines Pr.ir Spice blood orange liqueur, Ravenswood Zinfcmdel, star anise, cardnnumr pods, orange 7est,crushed peppercoms and honey. The Fresh Apple Martini (belwt) mixes Qabriel Boudier Apple Liqueur, BLue Ice aodka, lemon juice,dgdae nectar cmd mtddled apple.

Ginger, Pink Pigeon rum, fresh lemon juice, Snake Oil Co.'shouse-made sarsaparilla syrup and pomegranate bitters,and carbonated water.

Nuts And HoneyFrom honey-flavored vodka andBourbon to house-made honey syrups,

the sweet bee product has been makingits mark on mixology. Bdrenjdger honeyliqueur is gaining popularity as a

cocktail ingredient, due inpart to thebrand's annual bartender competition.This year's winning cocktail, the S.S.

Europa by Manhattan-based mixologistKyle Ford, blends Barenjziger, Noilly Pratdry vermouth and St. George absinthe. !7ildTirrkey American Honey liqueur is also featured

in cocktails like the Blood & Honey, comprising\7ild Tlrkey American Honey, Skyy Infusions BloodOrange vodka, lemon and orange juices, andPeychaud's bitters.

Nut liqueurs also add complexity to cocktails.Bluestem restaurant in Kansas City, Missouri, serves

the Triple Crown ($8), made with Dumante pistachioliqueur, Maker's Mark Bourbon, muddled mint, caramelsyrup and soda water. The Rare Breed Old Fashion($12) at 1534 in New York City mixes Disaronnoamaretto liqueuq Appleton Estate Reserve rum, Calvadosapple brandy, Punt e Mes vermouth and El TesoroReposado Tequila, garnished with orange oil and peel.

And The Afterlife ($12) from Ofrenda restaurant inManhattan features Frangelico hazelnut liqueur,Espol6n Reposado Tequila, lemon juice,pequin chili-cinnamon syrup and worm-wood bitters.

Similarly, chocolate and coffee liqueurs can play a role as a

modifier in a variety of cocktails, not just dessert drinls. Sacra-

mento bartender Tiavis Kavanaugh won Kahha's mixologycompetition in Califomia's capital in September with the Once(which mearu "eleven" in Spanish), comprising 11 ingredients:

Kahhia, rye whiskey, Cheny Heering liqueur, maple symp, pine-apple juice, angostura aromatic and orange bitters, muddled coffee

beans, egg white, nutmeg and an orange twist. Beam recentlylaunched Crave, a line of l5-percentabv chocolate liqueurs from JohnDeKuyper & Sons that includes

Chocolate Mint, Chocolate Cherryand Chocolate Chili expressions. The

Sassy Manhattan blends Crave ChocolateChili and Red Stag cherry-flavored Bourbon.

Cream liqueurs, on the other hand, are used

mostly in dessert cocktails, though some marketers

are coming up with unique takes on that concept.The Chuno Margarita mixes Carolans Irish Cream

liqueur, Licor 43, Tuaca liqueur and Cabo WaboAnejo Tequila, served in a cinnamon-sugar-rimmed

glass. The Espresso Martini ($12) at Hoyt's restaurantin Chicago comprises Baileys lrish cream, Patr6n XO

Caf6 liqueur, Stolichnaya vodka and espresso. In the fruitcream category Diageo recently introduced Qream liqueurin Strawberry Crdme and Peach Crdme offerings. Featured

cocktails include the Strawberry Shortcake, made withStrawberry Qream and Navan vanilla liqueur, and thePeach Qobbler, comprising Peach Qream, Captain MorganSilver Spiced rum and amaretto liqueur, garnished withamaretto cookie cmmbs.

\X/hether they're being featured as the base spirit in a cock-tail orused as a modifuing ingredient, liqueurs can

offer bold flavors and nuanced layers ofcomplexiry to a broad anay of drinks. @

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