may interna tional 2012 - fine wine · may interna tional 2012 wine, paella and oranges page 6...

I n s p I r a t I o n a l w I n e k n o w l e d g e a n d t h e p e o p l e b e h I n d t h e d r I n k

May2012I N T E R N A T I O N A L

wine, paella and orangespage 6

pioneers in tuscanypage 12

bollinger page 27

page 6 wine, paella and oranges page 12 pioneers in tuscany page 17 burgundy 2010 vintage page 20 cabernet sauvignon – is the name of the game! page 23 river deep, mountain high page 27 bollinger page 34 politics on ice! Webauction Special: page 38 online fine wine auktioner page 40 pristine wines from stellar private collections take centre stage at bonhams hong kong 2012 spring fine & rare wines auction page 42 finest and ra rest wines page 43 scotch single malt & investments!

WebAuction special I N T E R N A T I O N A L

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

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Your on-line magazine in a glaSS of itS oWn

fine Wine in 1.5 liter bag-in-box What for?recently the systembolaget (swedish state-owned off-licenses) has launched a series of high quality, fine wines in 1.5 liter b-i-b into their regular stock. one may ask what for, as the b-i-b wines are usually associated with wines of a lesser quality. the answer is as obvious as it is simple. those of us who enjoy a glass of wine with our food now and again are finally able to pour by the glass and not lose the quality of a good wine if we don’t finish it within the week.it is well known that a b-i-b has a much longer life expectancy than an opened bottle of wine, so we are looking forward to the quality bag-in-box selection increasing in volume in the near future. and not least for health reasons. this edition of fine wine will continue to bring to your attention exciting new wine regions, for

example valencia, where we get to meet the tuscan pioneers. we also learn more about the bourgogne 2010 and new swedish wine producers, we enjoy a visit to “bolli’s” (bollinger) and share a lot of interesting information about the upcoming fine wine & whisky ‘web auctions’ around the world. welcome to the world of fine wines

ove canemyreditor in chief fine wine international

it is perfectly acceptable to send fine wine international to good friends and acquaintances who are 20 years and older and are interested in fine wines. please tip us off about interesting events and occurrences, get together etc. [email protected] we cannot take responsibility to unsolicited material. please quote freely from fine wine but always reveal your sources.

editoral office:Ove Canemyr: Editor in Chief , Fine Wine Magazine/Trendsetter Box 24013, 104 50 Stockholm. Layout : Sophie L Slettengren, By Design AB, English texts: Roger Brett, Broadcasting Arts. [email protected] Proofreading: Kris Bibby Omslagsfoto: Anne-Marie Canemyr

pinot noir iS like a Woman

mattieu delaporte from domaine vincent delaporte et fils in sancerre talks about their wines and their ambitions to create organic wines of the very highest quality. sancerre is famous for its excellent white wines, such as the sancerre blanc (avail-able at the swedish state-owned off-license, the systembola-get) and the maxime blanc 2010 and 2009. the latter is also available at the same retail outlet, priced at 164 sek. what is perhaps a little unexpected for most of us is their sancerre rosé 2011 - a remarkably good rosé, it goes well with both fish and

meat dishes. it is very well-balanced and sweet.“we take it one step at a time to improve our products year on year,” says mattieu. suddenly there are two pinot noir wines on the table. sancerre rouge 2011 and sancerre cuvee maxime rouge 2010; the latter has spent one and a half years in oak barrels. these are wines of the highest quality. sancerre rouge 2011 is ideal for cheese, poultry and fish, while the maxime also stands up well against a pow-erful meat dish. but - red wines from sancerre? mattieu responds quickly: “pinot noir is like a woman! you have to treat her well every day or she will soon leave you!” so, let it be known that pinot noir from sancerre is here to stay, thanks to a young and ambitious master of wine - mattieu delaporte.

champagne daY 2012

it was a brilliant day for this year´s champagne day which was held op-posite the royal palace in the mirror room at grand hotel in stockholm. as usual there was a lot of interest in the event and on that afternoon, with so many people in attendance, it was difficult to make your way to the ta-bles. there were more than 30 exhibi-tors/importers present, all of them the most prominent champagne pro-ducers in the world.

n e W S

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n o t i c e

non-alcoholic white winepierre le couterier blanc 0% 750 ml1994-01 pris: 39 krfull-bodied and flavoursome, aromat-ic white wine with some sweetness. made from ugni blanc, chardonnay, colombard and muscat from langue-doc-roussillon in france. serve with fish, seafood or asian dishes.

non-alcoholic fruit winekiviks summer wine 0.5 % 750 ml1975-01 pris: 35 krthe apple-based fruit drink with a distinct sweetness. flavored with rhu-barb and gooseberry. the pink color comes from elderberry and rhubarb stalks. served chilled as a social drink..

alcohol-free rosétorres natureo rosé 0.5 %, 750 ml1953-01 price: 49 sekdry, fresh and berry flavor with hints of red berries. made from syrah and cabernet sauvignon grapes from spain. serve with white meat, poultry or fish, and vegetarian dishes

non-alcoholic sparkling rosédomaine d’estoublon moukipic, 0 %, 750ml91132-01 price: 69 sekpure, berry flavor with sweetness. made from muscat of alexandria grapes from provence. served chilled with light desserts or fruit, or as a so-cial drink.

other non-alcoholic beveragesbeo apple green tea 0.2 %, 330 ml1977-02 price: 9,90 kr

beo blood orange hibiscus 0.2 %, 330 ml1973-02 price: 9,90 krbeo is produced by the brewing of malt and fruit juice. the sweetness oc-curs naturally from the juices. beo is 29-31 kcal per 100 ml which is about 30% lower than traditional sodas. carbon dioxide is a natural result of brewing.

zero White, 0.5%, 250 ml1970-14 price: 13.90 € (including £ 1 deposit)wine-based drinks from Zero white is made of spanish white wine grape verdejo. the wine has been de-alco-holized and carbonated water, citric acid and saccharin sweetener added.

zero rosé, 0,5 %, 250 ml1988-14 price: 13.90 € (including £ 1 de-posit)wine-based drinks from Zero rosé is made of spanish red wine grape tem-pranillo. the wine has been de-alcohol-ized and carbonated water, citric acid and saccharin sweetener added.

F I N E W I N E o n yo u r R e a d e r Pa dN ow ’s t h e t i m e t o f i l l u p yo u r re a d e r p a d w i t h s o m e co n t e n t .

Yo u c a n d ow n l o a d Fi n e Wi n e a s a Pd f f i l e a n d re a d i t o n t h e re a d e r.

P l e a s e p a s s t h i s o n t o f r i e n d s a n d a cq u a i n t e n ce s.

SWediSh buSineSSman iS creating hiS oWn Wine brandS

ulf löwenhav is the name of a swedish wine mer-chantmerchant, who together with some friends created a com-pany lucomo, h e a d q u a r t e r e d in dragør in den-

mark. his mission is to create qual-ity wines made from world’s best and most famous vineyard areas under his own brand name and then bring them to market at a cheaper price than the comparatively more famous brands from the same regions. the consumer will be the winner, enjoying better or-ganically grown wines at lower prices. interested? read more on www.lucomo.com

Young french producerS Step into the limelight

frederic pacaut is responsible for the emergence of one of the new, younger producers in southern france, badét clément, who represents modern, new elements in french wine culture. it was founded by catherine and laurent delaunay in 1995. the company is family-owned and operated today from the home purchased by their grandfather in the 1930s. they currently make wines from languedoc-roussillon and bur-gundy regions and export to 46 dif-ferent countries.

for more information visit www.badetclement.com

thiS Summer’S neW non-alcoholic beVerageS - 2012

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Winemaking in tropical latitudeS

in costa rica the pinot noir, syrah, grenache and sauvignon blanc grows at about 2000 meters above

sea level. it is a grand project initi-ated by kerry damskey, a winemak-er with his roots in the napa valley, california, usa. the first wines from the highest vineyards in the world will be released for the first time in 2015. this project has already gained enor-mous attention because not only do the grapes grow at record altitudes, costa rica itself is located in the tropics. “it’s a challenge, says kerry damskey, “but at altitude we find ample oppor-tunities for good quality grapes.” several other countries have already demonstrated their ability to pro-duce drinkable wine at these lati-tudes - parts of mexico for instance, and india. the vineyard is spread over four hectares and is located out-side the village of copay in the cen-tral part of costa rica.

Jfc

n o t i c e

u.S. Wine conSumption tripleS

w w w.vinlusenab.se

a zinfandel of the higheSt

qualitY

peter seghesio is keep-ing the italian herit-age alive by, amongst other things, produc-ing sangiovese, venom and pinot grigio in the alexander valley and the russian river in

california. he is however, best known as a producer of high quality Zinfandel. it has taken peter and his cousin ted about 20 years to change their produc-tion procedures at the seghesio family vineyards. they have gone from deliver-ing bulk wine to other major producers on the west coast, to producing their own somber and thoughtful Zinfandel which has received considerable recog-nition in recent times. a fine example is the 2009 san lorenzo Zinfandel that is now available at swedish off-licenses (systembolaget’s ordering catalog) for about sek 470.if you are interested read more about it on www.Seghesio.com

the SherrY iS going to run out

the wine authorities in Jerez de la frontera, the centre for sherry produc-tion, have issued a statement saying the wine is starting to become scarce. the reason given is fewer vineyards. in the past the sherry industry has had to come to grips with a big decline in sales, but now they are faced with quite different problems. these stem from the financial crisis in spain. many grape growers sell their land, or uproot their vineyards in the hope of obtaining eu subsidies. all the wine-producing countries in the eu are jointly expected to curb vineyard production and one way to cut down over-production is to uproot some vineyards. in andalusia it seems to me to be totally wrong.in just a few years, the total vineyard acreage in the do Jerez has been halved and is now down to a very modest 6000 hectares. this promises to cause big problems for spanish for-tified wine production in the south.

Jfc

the united states remains unchallenged as the world’s leading wine consumer. new figures show that wine drinkers increased their consumption in 2011 by 90 million liters, compared to the previ-ous year. at the same time eu countries decreased their consumption by as much as 50 million liters and the classic wine countries of spain and italy were responsible for the largest reduction. in the past italy topped the list, followed by france, but this has changed rapidly and more changes are underway. global wine consumption will increase by more than two billion bottles be-

tween 2010 and 2015 and the united states will head the list. recently pub-lished reports predict that wine con-sumption in the us will triple within the next eight years.the top five wine consuming countries, based upon each country’s total wine consumption, are:1. usa2. italy3. france4. spain5. china

Jfc

www.vinlusenab.se

www.Seghesio.com


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God news for Connoisseurs

This spring you have the possibility to buy rare bottles at Systembolagets online auctions in collaboration with Stockholms Auktionsverk at www.stadsauktion.se

21-23 of May, starting at 1 pm

12-13 of June starting at 1 pm

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Valencia, the coastal town that is still waiting to be discovered. They have good food, long sandy beaches and last but not least – surprisingly good wine. Who’d have thought it ten years ago?

wine, paella and oranges

Words & pictures: Johan Franco cereceda

ValENcIa IS spain’s third largest city, though it seems to be a lit-tle overshadowed by Barcelona and Madrid. despite that, it’s a city that can definitely stand on its own two feet and has plenty to offer. here we find, amongst

other things, the original paella, oranges, beautiful beaches and a very modern museum.

BuT WhaT about the wine? The Va-lencia region is the largest wine exporting province in spain, al-

though it is primarily bulk wine. i would never disparage the region for this fact, because it is, after all, the foundation of the wine indus-try, much like detective novels for the publishing industry. one can always find something better -


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more serious, or a superior quality, but you also have to acknowledge that the bulk wine industry plays an important part over-all. Bobal is the large, local red wine grape, native to the utiel-requena district but also grown in around Valencia and alicante. it is the third most planted variety in spain; Monastrell is also fairly widely grown in alicante. it is here that Fondillón is made – an unfortified, Monastrell-based red, sweet, aged in oak casks for eight years, and intentionally oxidised. out of the barrel comes a sweet, concentrated, dark amber wine that is a marvel of complexity, and just about as diffi-cult to sell. unfortunately, due to its lack of popularity, it is fading away, though hope remains that perhaps it will find its place among today’s enthusiasts who are constantly on

the lookout for distinctive wines. “it’s one of spain´s most classic wines. complex and extremely long-lived,” says winemaker Felipe Gutierrez de la Vega in the moun-tains just an hour’s meandering drive from the Mediterranean coast and not far from alicante. Ferrán adrià, head chef at the restaurant el Bulli (two hours north of Bar-celona), has praised the wine for its distinctive flavours.

ThIS IS aN especially good area for dry wines, both red and white, and it has placed alicante on the gastro-nomic map. Gutierrez de la Vegas, using unusual grape blends Garna-cha, Monastrell, Merlot and syrah has produced yet another draw card for the region. enrique Mendoza is another really good producer in the area who has devoted many years to

using sound ecological, and more modern, methods.

BuT ThERE’S more to the exciting wine region of Valencia. about two hours’ drive from the distinc-tive but small-scale Gutierrez de la Vegas winery and Mendoza’s eco-logical focus we come to pago de Tharsys. From the highway the bo-dega doesn´t look impressive but it leads you down a driveway where you´re greeted by the owner, Vi-cente Garcia, and you´re reminded that you´re far off the beaten track.Vicente García grows the Galician green grapes Godello and albariño. The conditions are quite different here - the soil is different from that in spain’s northwest corner, the climate changes from maritime to continental and is radically differ-ent. The wines are quite perfect in

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a good winebar shooting rabbits cuult wine from valencia


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reflecting their fruits’ character, with apple tones, high acidity and a little waxy tone and a hint of the tropics.

ThIS IS ExacTlY what Vicente García was looking for when he founded his estate after decades in the wine industry. he had other plans, to take a few steps back and work more like a craftsman.“i’d had enough of huge produc-tion, with big cellars, and longed to be working on a smaller scale. i found this really good opportuni-ty around the town of requena,” he says.

WoRkINg FRom just a dozen acres, his diversity is impressive. pago de Tharsys Gran reserva is made from 95 percent Merlot and 5 percent cabernet Franc. it is a fine example of the vineyard’s

ability to grow excellent fruit; this is a world class wine.

aNoThER FaVoRITE, albeit a simpler wine, is nuestro Bobal made from 85 percent Bobal and the rest ca-bernet Franc. The end result is a wine with a fine balance and acid-ity, a rich fruity tone, an enjoy-able mouth-feel and a long finish where the fruit emerges without being too much like jam.

ThE FacT ThaT all of the wines on the property possess a rich fresh-ness is explained by Vicente Gar-cia. “We harvest at night, when the temperature is down to about twelve degrees. The grapes are in excellent physical condition and give the wine acidity and deeper concentration.”The most remarkable wine that is produced on the property is nei-

the garcia monastrellstock

Valencia the Wine region

in the region, we find three do (designated origin) districts: va-lencia, alicante and utiel-reuena. they differ quite a bit from each other. utiel-requena (40 000 hec-tares ) is located in the hinterland of the towns requena and utiel. the climate is typically continental influenced, with warm days and cool nights, which is very good for cultivating fruit-driven wines.

alicante (13 100 hectares ) is known for its sweet muscatel, and fondillón wine, very complex and oxidized. the climate is more consistent with its proximity to the sea. valencia (17 600 hectares ) is more coastal, with a more var-ied climate than the do alicante. the area produces many different wines, but still bobal and the white merseguera are the predominant varieties.


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ther red nor bubbly, but white and soft, with a gentle sweetness and great fruitiness. it has a slightly grassy taste with a balanced acid-ity. This wine is produced from Bronx grapes which is unique in this part of the world. to my knowledge there is no other wine in the old World made from this unique strain. Bronx is an ameri-can cross between the concord and Thompson seedless varieties. The american data is a bit scarce and i’m not certain if it´s ever cultivated in the us now, with one exception: california Lagier ranches, and of course the wines that Thompson made way back in 1933 in new York.

IF WE REmaIN in utiel we see a wine country which is both traditional and modern at the same time. We can visit the old excavations - walkways under the houses where families stored wine in hundred liter ceramic casks. We can also visit Vicente Gandías’ new bode-ga, hoya de cadenas, situated in the middle of the desert. he is a large producer with 200 acres of vineyard. a successful project of Vicente, it not only enhanced his own reputation, but also showed up the area’s potential. coop-eratives are crowded with private wine firms. it’s a healthy mix in the district, which takes its name from the largest cities in the area, utiel and requena. some Bodegas to remember are palmera, with possibly the best wine in the whole district, L’angelet of tempranillo, Bodegas y Viñedos Vegalfaro and their penchant for international grape varieties; alvarez nölting makes the best white wines in the area, and Vera de estenas with

their wines blended from cab-ernet sauvignon and Merlot. a new bodega, owned by Vegalfaro do has received a classification which means that the bodega and the associated vineyard finds itself in noble company along with 13 other small companies that we´ve found in this wine class.

PERhaPS ThE best bodega, in my opinion, which has already at-tracted considerable attention over the years, is Finca terrerazo. and today toni sarrion is a na-tional celebrity in spain. “toni who?” exactly! he’s not well

known in sweden as yet, but his wines are amongst the very best available in spain. despite the fact his vineyards are in the Valen-cia region and that he makes his wines from the Bobal grape, that old bulk wine favorite in eastern spain. or maybe that is the rea-son why?

“WE haVE had vineyards in our fam-ily for generations, but nobody has ever really considered this grape variety and given it the rec-ognition that it deserves.” They include not only the family, but virtually every producer in the

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area. his words have almost been written into history. here, the lo-cal grapes have been used, but not necessarily because they´re good. in fact they are the exact opposite of his vision and this is probably due to the fact that he has not studied wine formally.

IT’S oNlY in recent years that he became interested in wine, and in a completely different way to the traditionalists. he is focused primarily on fruit selection. The secret is in being very careful with the yield. he takes the fruit from the oldest vines that are in the best positions.

“I FouNd these old vineyards be-longing to the family; they were tucked up against the moun-tains and gave very little fruit. it is mainly this kind of cultivation that i´m interested in,” he told me. When his first vintage, 2000, was released about six years ago, the wine went down extremely well in wine circles. Quincha corral, received top scores from several of the country’s wine critics. a wine made from 76% bobal, 20% tempranillo and 4% cabernet sauvignon, the bobal grapes were picked from nearly 90-year vines, 800 metres above sea level. The second wine, el terrerazo is made

up of 40 % old bobal vines (plant-ed in 1912), 40% tempranillo and 20% cabernet sauvignon, and even that was very highly rated by wine consumers both inside and outside spain. a third wine, Mestizaje (spanish for mixing), is what he himself calls a symbiosis between the old and new: Bobal stands for tradition and the oth-er grapes that are included in the wine, cabernet sauvignon, Merlot and syrah, represent the modern.

ThESE BoBal wines are not particu-larly traditional in nature; being representative of modern spain, his wines lack precedent within the wine region of Valencia. sar-rion is very much a contemporary wine-maker. he has shown that there are an increasing number of wineries in Valencia who operate in a similar fashion. Going from bulk to boutique in the space of a few years is indeed a very impres-sive journey. We have toni sar-rion, Vicente Garcia & company to thank for that!

FINE WINES FRåN ITalEN!Se själv på www.wineoclock.se

att beställa vin från wine o´clock är helt lagligt och

bekymmersfritt. sedan juni 2007 kan svenskar bestäl-

la vin från utlandet och få det hemlevererat. svensk

alkoholskatt och moms är redan inkluderat i priset.

paella

no, paella is not spain’s national dish. it originates in valencia and is prepared in as many variations as there are families in the region. paella is tradition-ally eaten after church for a sunday lunch at home with the family gathered together; never at an inn or tavern. often this dish is seen as something to use up the leftovers but this is not the case. if you order paella as a tourist it should be prepared the day before. you should arrive on time otherwise the restaurant personnel will be irritated. it is best served directly from the open flames to the dining table.

in valencia it is served on rice, and in accordance with tradition, on white beans. the classic ingredients are chicken, rabbit and duck. why is that? well, because that´s the way it´s been in this area since the beginning of time.

finally, paella is called arroz in valencia, the spanish word for rice. the basis is rice and the restaurants where it is served (of course you can eat it at some restaurants) are called arrozerías. you will find countless variations, each one different from the other and as far from leftovers as you can imagine! in fact some chefs even put oranges in it.

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http://www.wineoclock.se

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pioneers in tuscany

Words & pictures: ursuLa heLLBerG

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Few places in Italy are so asso-ciated with the wine of Tusca-ny. It is therefore not surpris-ing that the “munskänkarna” (The ancient order of Tasters) this year appointed the chi-anti classico to “Wine desti-nation of the year 2012”. It´s easy to forget that Tuscany is so much more than chianti. let´s take a closer look at two of the district’s other appel-lations, which have come to mean a lot to Italy as a wine country and who also came to be seen as pioneers when the new wine laws were in-troduced.

White Vernaccia: firSt in claSS

driving between pisa and sienna the san Gimignano towers are an attractive focal point along the way. already during the etrus-can period, over 2000 years ago, wine was cultivated here and the city’s history stretches a very long way back. The high towers are of a considerably later date having been built in the early Middle

icario är en av många vinproducenter i montepulciano. förutom vin gör de även olJa och grappa.


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ages when rival families measured their power by seeing who could erect the highest towers.

ThIS aREa PRoducES tuscany’s main white wine, Vernaccia di san Gimignano,which was the first italian wine to received doc sta-tus (1966). today, the wine has been upgraded to docG. Grape Vernaccia is characterized by a light-yellow color with fruity hints of pear and apple and sometimes a little licorice. The wines are of-ten full-bodied and are therefore sometimes called “The red among the whites.” it used to be said that this grape wasn’t suitable for mak-

ing wines that age since it oxidized rapidly. The likely reason for this was the tradition of allowing the grapes to macerate (soak) for some time before fermentation was set in motion.

aFTER TaSTINg the Montenidoli’s oaked Vernaccia from 2002 i can assure you that the claim is un-founded. it is, to say the least, a wine full of vitality in spite of its 10 years, as the soil around san Gimignano is very rich in lime-stone and contains many fossil-ized shells, which in turns has lent a mineral character to the grapes. The wines from here are therefore

ideally suited to different kinds of seafood but also to the neighbor-hood’s anti pasta.

ThE STYlE oF wines today varies widely amongst the wine-makers, but they all have one thing in common: quality awareness. at least 85% of the wine must con-tain Vernaccia to comply with the docG appelation. other per-mitted grapes are the typical tus-can white grapes. More flavorful grapes such as sauvignon Blanc and riesling may not exceed 10 %. in addition to Vernaccia di san Gimignano, docG also pro-duces san Gimignano doc vin

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maria caterina dei doesn’ t operate as a wine company owner. she is also a singer. the wine ”sanc ta catha-rina” is her i .g.t. wine and contains equal parts prug-nolo gentile, caberne t sauvignon, and syrah.

the town hall in montepulciano was comple ted in ad1424. to take a stroll in montepulciano is l ike walking 600 years back in time.


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santo, an italian dessert wine. The predominant red grape here, as is often the case in tuscany, is san-giovese. The recommended wine-makers from san Gimignano are Mon-tenidolo – truly outstanding! The owner, elisabetta Fagioli, is as charming as she is a skilled win-emaker. capella santandrea, Fra-telli Vagnoni, il Lebbio and san donato are other notable wineries of this region. the nobleSt Wine getS the fineSt title

The first wine in italy to be elevat-ed to the highest level of quality, docG, back in 1980 also came

from tuscany. it was the Vino nobile di Montepulciano, the nobility’s wine, which of course speaks volumes about its quality. remember that the Vino nobile di Montepulciano was mentioned more 2,000 years ago by the histo-rian titus Livy. in the 1500’s it was pope paul iii who liked the wine. two hundred years later Voltaire praised it in his work, candide. a truly noble with an illustrious his-tory! The city of Montepulciano, which is not to be confused with Montepulciano grapes from abru-zzo region on italy’s east coast, is located 70 kilometers southeast of siena and has long been counted as the main contender to the neigh-

boring Montalcino’s flavorsome Brunello wines. Both districts produce grapes made from the sangiovese grape, but in Montep-ulciano this grape is known locally as prugnolo Gentile (in Montalci-no it is Brunello). at least 70 % of the grape has to be included in the noble wines to comply with regulations. other grapes allowed include cabernet, sauvignon and Merlot. The wine laws also state that just two years of storage is sufficient, unlike Brunello wines which require twice as much time. Therefore Montepulciano wines are available earlier and are some-what cheaper because of their shorter shelf life.

the san gimignano charac teristic silhoue t te. today only 14 of the original 72 towers remain.

Vinbanken

http://www.vinbanken.se

http://www.vinbanken.se


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amongst the prominent produc-ers are poliziano, whose owner Frederico carletti has contributed significantly to Montepulciano’s fame. his wines are quite often sold in sweden. especially prized is the asinone (100 percent prugnolo gentile) and the caber-net-based Le stanze (classified as iGt). The name asinone is quite humorous because it means don-key trails and was chosen because the shape of the vineyard resem-bles a donkey´s back.

VIlla SaNTa aNNa is owned by a trio consisting of simona rug-geri Fabrini and her two daugh-ters anna and Margherita, who together are successful wine pro-ducers. another talented lady winemaker is Maria caterina dei, whose wines are always safe bets. amongst the newcomers to this classic wine country, i should also mention Montemercurio, who af-ter only seven years in operation here has achieved fine results. The vineyard is located on historic land adjacent to the area’s famous renaissance church s. Biagio.

elisabe t ta fagioli montenidoli hails from a living wine legend. here she makes an appearance during a wine tasting in the sala di dante, san gimignano, earlier this spring. the venue is historic. it was here that the poe t dante spoke in ad1300 when he visited san gimignano as an envoy of the republic of florence.

www.vinportalen.se


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Att börja dricka i tidig ålderökar risken för alkoholproblem.

NipozzaNoRiseRva 2007

Art.nr: 74177. 129 kr.75cl. 13,5% VOl.

BeställningsvArA

CastelgioCoNdo BRuNello di

MoNtalCiNo 2006Art.nr: 94012. 299 kr.

75cl. 14% VOl.eXklUsivt sOrtiMent

pateR saNgiovese 2010 Art.nr: 22316. 77 kr.

75cl. 13% VOl.i BUtik

www.spendrupsvin.se


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The release of the new Burgundy vintage into the uk market has become as much a feature of the New Year as wine writers trying not to drink in January. Journalists might want to rest their jaded, post-christmas palates but selling Burgundy in January and February provides merchants with much needed turnover during an otherwise quiet trading period.

FRom JaNuaRY 2Nd to 16th, there were over 30 tastings in London, with up to five tastings on some days. it was estimated that 2,000 wines were available to sample. The tastings were so comprehensive that the leading French critic Michel Bettane came to London because the offerings here are now even more compre-hensive than in paris.

ThE 2009 VINTagE was a year when the climatic conditions prevailed over terroir—the wines tasted of sun-shine rather than of soil. By con-trast, 2010 is, as Frédéric Mugnier puts it, “a classic Burgundian vin-tage”. overall the wines are not as

rich as those of 2009 but they are more precise, with pure flavors, brisk acidity, and fine tannins. it was a challenging year for grow-ers. on december 22nd, 2009, shortly after the united nations climate change conference had been held in copenhagen, a severe

frost hit the côte de nuits and temperatures reached -21°c (-5.8°F). primary buds were decimated. it was the worst frost for years and reminded many people of the 1985 and 1962 growing seasons—which, it turned out, pro-duced exceptional wines.

aS SPRINg BEgaN the damage became apparent. Vincent Morey described, with

some horror, using a power saw on his old cordon royat-trained vines in santenay to cut away the dead wood.

ThE FloWERINg SEaSoN was cool and damp, leading to coulure—small,

>>>

burgundy 2010 vintagetext stuart george

http://www.vinlistan.com


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barely formed berries dropping off the vine—and millerandage—small, seedless thick-skinned ber-ries. Both these drastically reduced potential yields.

ThERE WaS lITTlE sunshine until June. The first half of July was very dry and hot. “août fait le moût” goes the saying but august was dull. The so far joyless weather of 2010 continued into septem-ber, with outbreaks of rain caus-ing widespread mildew, oidium and botrytis that further blighted yields.

oN SEPTEmBER 12Th there was a hail-storm—originating from above the Mont de sène overlooking santenay—that fell on chassa-gne, Meursault, and santenay and caused much damage. electricity in the air caused nearly ripe grapes to go brown or blue overnight.

ThE FINal TRIal for growers was the heavy rain around nuits saint Georges and Vosne-romanée on september 24th, which interrupt-ed or delayed harvesting. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy

buyer at London merchant Berry Bros & rudd and author of inside Burgundy, called 2010 “a tale of the unexpected, as the wines are far better than the growing sea-son suggested, or indeed than the growers thought at harvest time.” Morris considers the reds “very classical, with much more red fruit than black, and very few green notes.” he describes the whites as, “very aromatic upfront, dense and fleshy in the middle, and with very good acidity behind. Meur-sault is particularly fine, while further north chablis is superb”. indeed, Bettane—not known for hyperbole—declared that 2010 was the greatest ever vintage for chablis.

YIEldS WERE exceptionally low in 2010, down 35-50% overall. uK importer roy richards said, “i have not seen cellars so empty of barrels since 2003. For example, domaine Grivot’s average annual production is of 72,000 bottles. in 2009, it was of 82,000. in 2010, 51,000.” With volumes so low, most producers held their prices. The perplexingly strong euro¬—as of January 2012 at about the same rate against the dollar as it was in January 2009—continues to make the wines relatively ex-pensive.

ThE much-hYPEd chinese thirst for Burgundy is, for the time being at least, an urban legend. record auction prices for domaine de la romanée-conti do not help other growers sell futures. Marc dupin of Louis Jadot admitted, “We sell in a year in china what we sell in a week in africa”. This surprisingly good vintage is best summarized by Guillaume d’angerville: “The wines are crisp, pure, straightforward and persis-tent, with a very fluid finish. not enough of it, though!”

http://www.franskabolaget.com

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Fine Wine, helsida 180x240Im

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Bourgogne ChardonnayArtnr 5621, 99 kr, 12.5%, 750 ml

L ChardonnayArtnr 5649, 76 kr, 11,5%, 750 ml

Importeras av Primewine Sweden AB, 08-679 52 00 Bourgogne ChardonnayArtnr 5621, 99 kr, 12.5%, 750 ml

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BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY

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20

cabernet sauvignon – is the name of the game!

>>>

michael martini has a long history in wine production behind him. his grandfather was sent home to genoa in Italy after having made it on his own to San Francisco to see his father. In 1800 he emigrated to america and started producing wine on a larger scale in california. The reason he was sent home was that his father thought it better that he learned to pro-duce wine in Italy from the old masters before coming to california. and that’s exactly the way it turned out.


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IN 1911, he returned to the usa and rented a winery in pleasan-ton, about 40 miles inland from san Francisco, where he made his first Louis M. Martini wines.during the prohibition era, which began in 1922, he created L.M. Martini Grape products compa-ny that produced the communion wine and grape concentrate for wine production at home. When prohibition ended in 1933, it was time to build the Louis M. Mar-tini Winery in st. helena in cali-fornia in the heart of napa Valley.

IN 1938 he purchased The Gold-stein ranch on the sonoma side of the Mayacamas Mountains and renamed it Monterosso because of the red volcanic earth.

To FacIlITaTE cooperation amongst the wine producers in the napa Valley, and to overcome various obstacles along the way to raise the status of wines from the napa Valley, Louis formed the napa Valley Vintners association 1943.

1951 SaW Louis’s son Louis p. Mar-tini on board and he became the first grower to use wind machines to keep the frost away in the vine-yards. Three years later he took over as chief winemaker.The story continues into the roar-

ing ‘60s and in 1968 Louis was among the first to create Merlot wines in california.1977 saw the third generation winemaker, Michael Martini, take over the tradition in the napa Valley from his father and grand-father.

IN 1981 the american society of enology and Viticulture present-ed Michael’s father with an award for his successful work, which in turn led him to led him to create the Louis p. Martini endowment for Viticulture and enological re-search at the university of califor-nia, davis, in 1994

mIchaEl had meanwhile learned everything he wanted to know and intended to develop further in Monterosso. But while Louis p. created Merlot wines, Michael went to work for the air Force. Why, one might ask? during this time he applied for and received an education at davis college, university of california. he grad-uated from there in 1977 with a degree in Fermentation science and then immediately took over the family tradition as head win-emaker at st. helena.When you ask Michael about his views on how to create great wines, the answer he gives is a

comparison to his father.“My father´s wines are silk and mine are velvet.”

BY ThE EaRlY 80’S, Michael had com-pleted his education by traveling around the vineyards of europe and in particular Bordeaux. This has left its mark on the way he makes cabernet sauvignon today - wines that can be stored with structure, elegance and finesse and that express the particular terroir found in his vineyard in california.

louis m martini cabernet Sauvignon 2007

the grapes from howell moun-tain and mount veeder in napa valley. they are harvested early in the morning to avoid the heat, destemmed, after which they then undergo rigorous sorting before maceration and fermen-tation for 21 days. the wine is then transferred to the new and one year old french oak (80%) and american oak (20%) barrels where the wine will mature for 12 months.

aroma and palate:complex and elegant wine with tones of dark cherries and plums. the wine has a soft character of oak, spice and vanilla. long finish with ripe tannins.price 19 euros at systembolaget.


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Alkohol i samband med arbeteökar risken för olyckor.

STELLENZICHT GOLDEN TRIANGLE PINOTAGE

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mailto:[email protected]


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river deep, mountain high

gIulIo FERRaRI – no relation to enzo – initiated sparkling wine in this mountainous part of italy in 1902, when trento was still part of the austro-hungarian empire. owned by the Lunelli family since 1952, Ferrari remains the preeminent and largest producer of trento doc, with an annual production of five million bottles, 90% of which is sold in italy. The istituto trento doc Metodo classico was established in 1984 and, with the istituto agrario di san Michele all’adige, oversaw production of classic method

sparkling wines in trentino. in 1993 trento was the first sparkling wine after champagne – and the first italian sparkling wine – to gain protected origin status. trento doc is for spar-kling wines only; still wines come under the trentino doc. today there are 37 producers of Metodo di classico di trentino working with 3,000 hectares of vineyards planted with chardon-nay, pinot noir and pinot Meu-nier.

mountain bubbleS

The pale-coloured, sharp-edged dolomites are reflected in the area’s wines. Mountains and lakes influence trento’s terroir. Vines are planted at up to 800 metres al-titude, scattered across the moun-tains and valleys that overlook the river adige. altitude compen-sates for latitude here, with some vineyards so steep that at azienda agricola Zeni, for instance, the tractors have roofs to protect the driver in case the tractor topples over. Because of the slopes grapes are invariably hand harvested.

overshadowed by Prosecco and Franciacorta in export markets, Trento doc ac-counts for 12% of the domestic Italian sparkling wine market. Ten percent of its pro-duction is exported.

>>>


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Valley floor soils are alluvial but in the hills are more calcareous. Vineyard holdings are fragment-ed. Ferrari works with 600 grow-ers. The cantina La Vis co-op has 300 members with an aver-age holding of one hectare. 4,500 growers supply trentino’s largest producer cavit.

VINES aRE TRaINEd to guyot or per-gola, though replantings always utilise the superior guyot system. The wind that blows in from Lake Garda to refresh the vines (and the workers) lends itself to or-ganic viticulture, as pursued by endrizzi, Zeni and Maso Martis, for example.The trento doc regulations in-sist on “high quality base grapes grown in trentino, second fer-mentation in the bottle, pro-longed contact with the lees fol-lowed by long maturation and excellent winegrowing and win-emaking techniques supervised and guaranteed by a high stand-ard of professionalism.”

WINES muST BE made from char-donnay, pinot noir, pinot Meuni-er and / or pinot Blanc. rosé wines can be made only by saignée. The minimum ageing period for nV wines is 24 months and for riserva wines 36 months. The disgorge-ment date is declared on the label – not something that happens all that often in champagne. there is no minimum dosage but the maximum is “in conformity with eec regulation”. in practice the wines tend to have a low dosage of no more than 10 grams per litre. pressure tends to be 5.5-6 atmos-pheres, more or less the same as a bot-tle of champagne. (a refrigerated can of soda is about 2 atmospheres).

trento claSS cruiSerS: a tasting of 15 trento doc wines 2007-1991

on 25th november 2011, 15 wines from five producers were presented at an “old Vintage tasting” held at the sixteenth century palazzo roccabruna in trento as part of the “Bollicine su trento” (“Bubbles over trento”) event.

abate nero riserva 2003

abate nero is a trento doc spe-cialist – no still wines are made here. The chardonnay and pinot noir grapes for riserva were sourced from trento and Lavis hillsides at 300-700 metres altitude. an etched glass doubtless encour-aged the fine mousse. Fresh and vaguely sherbetty on the nose, and not particularly leesy (though it was disgorged in 2011), the palate had dry richness but was a bit blurred at the edges. With aeration the pleasing flavours and acidity gave way to some acetate. drink now.


Like the 2003, this was blended from 80% chardonnay and 20% pinot noir and had a dosage of 6.8 grams per litre. This vintage had less time on the lees, though, and was disgorged in “mid-2007”. The mousse was more persistent than the 2003’s, though it lacks that wine’s complexity. drink now.


a fine, persistent mousse again. disgorged in “mid-2006”, the 2001 was fresh but had hint of furniture polish – linoleum per-haps. smoothly textured and with great vivacity on the palate for its

age, this wine declined badly with aeration to become excessively al-dehydic.

altemasi di cavit altemasi riserva graal 2003

This wine represents 10%, or 300,000 bottles, of the vast cavit co-operative’s annual production. sourced from chardonnay and pinot noir vineyards overlooking trento, Brentonico and the Lakes valley , it was disgorged in May 2010. a third of the chardonnay was fermented in barriques. it improved with aeration but remained unappealing. The rub-bery, “burnt” nose suggested re-duction.


This was much better. disgorged in March 2007, it was clean, brisk and pleasant. The palate was vague-ly honeyed and finished with some nuttiness. drink now to 2015.


This was the best wine yet. hon-eyed on the nose, its lip-smacking acidity and more than decent length showed real quality. after an hour or so in the glass it be-came very leesy – disgorgement was in april 2006.

azienda Vinicola methius riserva 2006

Methius makes 15,000 bottles per year of this wine, which repre-sents 20% of total production. a 60/40 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, it came from Faedo and pressano hillsides at 350-500 metres altitude north of trento on the east side of the river adige.

>>>


25

it was disgorged in september 2011. toasty at first, it showed good freshness, concentration and acidity, though overall was rela-tively simple.


a fellow taster complained about excessive sulphur. The 2005 had 110 parts per million, which was the highest of any wine here but not by much. This was more hon-eyed than the 2006 but had excel-lent length again.


an excellent sparkling wine of real interest. all sorts of things could be smelled and tasted here: linole-um, honey, herbs and even panet-tone. nicely textured and with ex-cellent length, like the 2005 and 2006 it had five years on the lees.

iStituto agrario di San michele all’adige riSerVa del fondatore mach 2007

The istituto, which is now known as Fondazione edmund Mach, is an agricultural college that makes wines under its own name from 50 hectares of vines. about 10,000 bottles a year of riserva del Fon-datore Mach are produced, which

is about 4% of the winery’s total production. The chardonnay grapes for this came from vineyards at 700 me-tres altitude on “glacial deposit soil with marl-calcareous mineral content, sub-alkaline, fine loamy structure, strong skeleton (sic) and good organic matter content.” as bright and fresh as the morn-ing air in trento, it was fruity, charming and invigorating but fundamentally simple. disgorge-ment was in september 2011.

istituto agrario di San michele all’adige riserva del fondatore mach 2006

also disgorged in september 2011, the 2006 was much more complex than the previous wine, with nuttiness and fine length.

istituto agrario di San michele all’adige riserva del fondatore mach 2002

a lick of acidity on the finish keeps this bracingly vigorous. deep and dense, it could be drunk with red meat. disgorged in september 2006.

giulio ferrari fratelli lunelli giulio ferrari riserva del fondatore 2001

First made in 1972, riserva del Fondatore accounts for less than

1% of Ferrari’s annual production of five million bottles. it is sourced from a chardonnay vineyard called “Maso pianizza”, 500-600 metres above sea level in the commune of trento. as golden as a Garda sunset, it was complex but remains fresh and lively. riserva del Fonda-tore has significant ageing on the lees, at least a year more than any other wine tasted here. The 2001 was disgorged in 2010 but the vivid fruit keeps the leesy flavours in rein, though some nuttiness showed on the finish.


Less vivid than the 2001, with a paler colour and duller mousse, this was nonetheless delicious. The nose suggested sottobosco. Like the previous wine, it was dis-gorged in 2010.


at 20 years old, this still has con-cert pitch acidity. truffles, dried fruits and some nuttiness suggest age but it has retained freshness. also disgorged in 2010.

ine dining

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26

®

http://www.interbrandsnordic.com


27

>>>

The champagne house Bollinger is situated in the heart of champagne, in the village aÿ, where Pinot Noir reigns supreme. of course, it has had the starring role in all wines from this famous company – for both its flavour and aroma.

bollingerBY soFia ander


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BollINgER IS James Bond´s favorite champagne. Bollinger has all the power, depth, the elegance and luxury of James Bond as well as the finesse and flavours. a large part of this vigour comes from the casks. Fermentation on wood is not common in champagne. only suppliers like Krug and al-fred Gratien use barrels in this way. Bollinger, however, is the only house with its own cooperage and the casks themselves are from their own Burgundy-based firm chanson. They are old and used for at least 4 years. it is the round-ness and texture you want from the oak, not tannins.

ThE dEPTh alSo comes from the long storage period, in excess of three years for non-vintage wines. That’s twice as long as the law stipulates. Thanks to this, and a relatively low dosage, you get a dry but rich and full-bodied style. a lot has to hap-pen though, before you end up with the final drinkable product. i was invited to try the 2011 vin-tage. This is before the real blend is ready, when the wines are still quiet and young. The history is anything but rich. The 2011 harvest was small but tough. The acidity is crisp and fresh. perfect for a good vintage champagne. The climate and ter-roir are the beginning and the end of it in this region. here, winters are characterized by fresh coldness, even the summers are relatively cool. This is good for the grapes so that they ripen slowly and devel-op their fine flavours and acidity. high acid, low alcohol and light-ness is the basis for champagne. We are there to try all the com-ponent parts that go to make up

a Grand cru class of champagne. all fruit comes from the famous grand cru and premier cru villag-es. avize, aÿ, Le Mesnil sur oger, cui, Verzenay and Venteuil. Wines from each village are displayed on the table. all are in still form, with or without cask fermentation. it is fresh, sour, biting and mineral rich. The wines are steel ferment-ed, taste like grapefruit, pears, un-ripe apples and lemon. The other bottles, with the cask fermented wine, have both a roundness and a creaminess, with the flavor of nuts, melted butter, vanilla, cara-mel and bourbon. two extremes, three different grapes, six different villages. But in the end only one wine. in the end Bollinger special cuvée

chamPagNE houSE Bollinger was founded as late as 1829 by henne-quin de Villermont, paul renau-din and Jacques Bollinger. today it is owned by the Bollinger fam-ily’s fifth generation, making the firm one of the few family-owned champagne houses that are left. Many family firms have been bought up by large companies and cooperatives. Bollinger wishes to retain the family business feeling. Just look at Lilly Bollinger, who left her mark on Bollinger, if not the entire champagne region. she was actually married into the family, with Jacques’s grandson George. When he passed away in 1941, she took over and began her journey around the world to market the champagne house. Lilly also purchased more vine-yards; she was often seen pedaling around on her famous bicycle in-specting them. Lilly’s key role was taken over thirty years later by her

>>>


29

nephews claude d’hautefeuille and christian Bizot. she handed over to them a rich company, with more land and a greater knowl-edge of the wine world.

BollINgER oWNS over 160 acres of private land and need only to buy in less than a third of the grapes used for production. They have total control over the rest. This is something that obviously contrib-utes to the wine’s fine quality.in 1973 Bollinger’s new role was as James Bond’s favorite. suddenly the drink became a movie celebrity in its own right and has since then appeared in several Bond films. Bollinger took over from dom per-ignon and now has a free product placement agreement in the movies.

IN 2005 BollINgER added another name to its empire. The venerable champagne house ayala, known for its fully dry champagnes and its limited production, ayala is a neighbor of Bollinger, in the cent-er of aÿ, and in the middle of it what is known as Grand cru.today it produces mainly six dif-ferent Bollinger champagnes, two of which are rosé. Lilly Bollinger was actually against the idea of making a rosé champagne. in-stead she created r.d. - recently disgorged, a wine which, like the top champagne La Grande année, consists only of pinot noir and chardonnay, and only from the best locations. it also has very low dosage and has lain an extra long period on oak.

Let us start from the beginning with a list of their products.

Special cuVée

typically consists of about 60% pinot noir, 25% chardonnay and 15% pinot Meunier. over 85% comes from Grand cru and pre-mier cru estates.Much of the wine is made up of reserve wines, which ferment in barrels and is stored from five to 15 years. This gives it the “Bol-linger” style. it gives spices, ripe apples, peaches, dried fruit, bri-oche and nuts on the palate. Great structure and depth.

bollinger roSé

The content is largely the same as in the special cuvée. to make a rosé champagne, you must blend in high-quality red wines from

Grand cru estates. The power and depth from the special cuvée is recognized, but there are also hints of red berries and some tan-nins from the red wine.

la grande année, the current Vintage iS 2002

65 % pinot noir and 35 % char-donnay. 100% Grand cru and premier cru estates. only the best. a great vintage, prob-ably the best since the peak year of 1996. Fully fermented in oak casks, the bottles are hand turned and degorged by hand as well. a huge wine that is open and wide today, but of course can be saved for another few decades. Flavors of brioche, yellow apples, plums and toasted nuts.

>>>


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la grande année roSé 2004

Just released on the market. Very young in the current situation with clear cask tones and some-what volatile aromas. Made by the same procedure as La Grande an-née, but they have added 5-7 % red wine. red wine of top qual-ity, coming from a small plot of Grand cru estates in aÿ. today, big and broad shouldered with a hint of toasted barrels, nuts, nou-gat and red berries.

bollinger rd 99

The same wine as La Grande an-née, but with even lower dosage and longer yeast retention. The dosage is only 3-4 grams, making it an additional Brut among the drier champagnes on the market. Full-bodied and wide with a taste of autumn apples, yellow plums, toasted bread and chocolate.

bollinger VielleS VigneS françaiSeS

a unique and rare champagne, only made in small quantities. a blanc de noir, made of 100 % pinot noir from three small vineyards in aÿ and Bouzy. The vineyards escaped phylloxera, so all the vines are unseeded. Large, complex and full bodied with fla-vors of nuts, apples, spices and roasted barrel.

[email protected]



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P l a t s a n n o n s

a major UK PlC Professional services Company with 40,000 people worldwide is looking for a Reward Consultant at one of their offices. the role is dynamic, fast paced and challenging and we are looking for professionals who have the skills to drive transition and change and bring business standards up to World Class level.

Reward ConsultantBeing part of the Reward Team reporting to the Head of Reward, you will be responsible for the contribution towards the design of strategic reward programmes and their deployment and re-sponsible for the development and management of the Reward agenda. Your responsibilities will involve:

• Supporting the transformation of reward function from transac-tional to providing a strategic partnership to the business by:

- identifying and developing Reward activity transfer plans - driving the implementation of such plans through to measurable success - designing and delivering Reward tools to the Country & Group Service line to support Business Leaders and their teams to understand and manage Reward activities within their teams - continuing to identify and deliver solutions to support the growth/development of the company• Deploying reward solutions (compensation, benefits and recog-

nition) that support business strategy in geographies/service lines

• Independently driving and completing projects with little or no oversight

• Working with the Head of Compensation & Benefits in the de-velopment/delivery of specific group reward programmes

• Ensuring that Total Reward programmes are fit for purpose – best practice, market competitive, cost neutral, tax/social security compliant

As a person you will be committed and innovative with strong influencing and communication skills and you are a strong team player.

background / experiencegraduate level or equivalent with 5-8 years specific total reward experience of which at 3 should be internationally in a matrix envi-ronment. in particular you will need to have significant expertise in compensation (including cash and share based incentives), benefits (including retirement benefits) and recognition. you will need to be an experienced project leader with significant experience of manag-ing and deploying global total reward projects. in addition, experi-ence in working with remote/virtual teams is required. it is essential that you have experience of working across international boundaries and a strong history of quickly building key relationships and gaining credibility within the business.

070-725 48 36 / 08-52 50 86 30 mail: [email protected]


http://www.vinia.se


32

Te Kairanga, Martinborough, 179 kr 1,5 l box 13% nr 6254.

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Alkohol är beroende-framkallande.

ALLESVERLOREN FINE OLD VINTAGE18%VOL, 750 ML ART.NR 12109, 139KRwww.janake.se

2011-12-02 DAGENS INDUSTRI

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34

politics on iceBY christopher JarnVaLL, editor and puBLisher oF the neWsLetter aLcohoL update

Schnapps or punch should be put on ice so as to be really cold before serving. Political decisions that are put on ice, however, tend not be as appetizing after they´ve been thawed out! They are usually a little musty and stale. What a pleasing metaphor this is. Sometimes they´re actually picked up again, but many remain and find their way into well-deserved, or indeed undeserved, oblivion.

RIghT NoW it seems that we have two government proposals that have been put on ice: direct sales and the proposed increased alcohol tax. regarding farm sales outlets, the question remains. it is usually said that when you´re sitting and waiting for a political situation to ripen it’s good for picking up a bill. The issue of farm outlets for the sales of locally produced alco-hol products is particularly inter-esting for the centre party, which has many voters among rural pro-ducers. conservatives promised to support the idea. But the proposal is difficult to make because the

Liberal party is divided on the is-sue and the christian democrats are definitely against. in other words Government is far from having a majority in parliament. in which case they should refrain from presenting a proposal. They should be laid on ice, perhaps to modify or crumble, or maybe just fall into obscurity!

amoNgST PaRlIamENTaRY advocates for farm retail outlets there is a cer-tain irritation against the monop-oly, which, they argue, has entered into both an unholy and inappro-priate alliance with the temper-

ance movement ioGt-nto, to counteract the farm sales propos-al. The systemBolaget (swedish state owned off-license chain) has obvious difficulties in lobbying for itself but pushes the ioGt-nto into the fray in front of them, while conducting support activi-ties. The majority of parliament does not approve of this. regard-less of the political fighting over this issue, it is unfortunate that it appears the question of Farm retail sales will not amount to anything, at the present time that is. it would have brought more livelihood into much of the coun-

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tryside and provided jobs, espe-cially amongst the young. perhaps it would have filled a social and educational purpose too, in that it revealed many alcohol products to be a part of our cultural heritage and should be treated with cau-tion and moderation. enjoy it as one enjoys the homemade choco-late or jam also on sale at the farm retail outlets. The prices would hardly have been able to compete even with systemBolaget’s and certainly not with the illegal alco-hol suppliers. plum wine & bran-dy from the farmhouse gift shop would perhaps have been able to provide a cultural point of refer-ence, far from the traditional week end ‘piss-up’.

aS FaR aS i’m concerned the tax in-crease bill can fall into obscurity. Last year it was a hot item in the news, but was blocked by a poll conducted by the newsletter al-cohol update. (My modesty for-

bids me from divulging the editor of the au, and also the promot-ers!) a majority of parliamen-tary delegates members said that they didn´t want to take a stand on a change in taxes until they had read a proper impact assess-ment. as far as one knows there hasn’t been one. The question is still open, and our currency, the swedish crown, is even stronger against the euro this year than in 2011, so it would be quite remark-able if there were to be a proposi-tion from the chancellor of the

exchequer - Borg. according to political observers within the al-liance, there´s a genuine fear, even in the Ministry of Finance, that alcohol taxes might not lead to what you want them to, i.e. lower consumer spending and increased tax revenues. The issue of taxation has increasingly been given a dif-ferent focus: it is organized crime, such as in Malmö. in the wake of problems in this city, one can find the trade in illegal alcohol bever-ages. now if you want to show that you are serious about fighting crime, according to our sources, one cannot ‘fatten it up’ indirectly with increased alcohol taxes. in addition to this, the government has come to realize that the official statistics delivered year after year by sorad may not be quite so accurate.

So lET´S kEEP the tax issue on ‘ice’, as cold as the shot that accompa-nies the midsummer herring!

Världspremiär för En Värld av Vin på nätetAll världens vinländer, regioner, viner och producenter i en dator nära dig. Registrera dig gratis på www.envarldavvin.se. Välkommen hälsar Mikael Mölstad.

http://www.vinlistan.com


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http://www.systembolaget.se

http://marquesdecasaconcha.com

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W e b A u c t i o n spec ialI N T E R N A T I O N A L

there has been a fantastic response to our we-bauction special part of fine wine. we thought there would be a response but this is much more than we expected.

it´s great fun, and therefore it feels fitting to an-nounce a new webauction special for the upcom-ing weeks auctions world-wide. and of course more information about what has happened and what is hap-pening in the market, not least in terms of the big new trend - investments in whisky.

i would like to wish you all a very nice spring, a good “roi” and a wonderful summer.

time for making a good inVeStment for the Summer bloSSom in full bloom!

ove canemyreditor in chief webauctionspecialfine wines internationalwww.finewine.nu

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contents:online fine Wine auktioner

bonham

SothebY,S

Scotch Single malt & inVeStmentS!

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We bAu c t i o n spec ial

online fine Wine auktionerBY stuart GeorGe

may and June conclude the year’s first half of sales. auction houses will take a break during July and august before returning to work in September.

thursday 10th may was a busy day in london, with sales be-ing held by bonhams and christie’s. the following day saw hart davis hart of chicago host a two-day sale that includes 55 lots of domaine de la romanée-conti from the “fox cel-lar”, another offering from the large collection that was first sold by hdh in september 2008.

“fox” apparently refers to a private family trust rather than an individual consignor. that 2008 sale realised nearly $11.2 million (sek75,324,100) from 1,746 lots sold, one of the highest-ever wine auction totals to that date. it also saw lafite reach a new high of $46,000 (sek309,370). “there have been a lot of surprises in my 25-year career as a wine auctioneer, but i never thought that i would see a case of 1982 lafite hammer above case lots of 1982 pétrus in the same auction,” said vice-chairman michael davis. “the ex-plosion in the world-wide demand for lafite is astounding.”

but things have changed since the height of the market in 2008. on 12th may in new york sotheby’s will offer a full wooden case of lafite 1982 at $32,500-42,500 (sek218,575-285,830). once upon a time this would have been the star lot of the sale and graced the catalogue cover – but no more. the cover shows a bottle of sassicaia 1985 from a six-bottle lot estimated at $6,000-9,000 (sek40,350-60,530). individu-al bottles have made up to $1,400 (sek9,400) recently.

the 1985 vintage has long maintained a reputation, in most but not all cases justified, for having achieved a number of “firsts.” it is generally considered first among italian wines, although there are those who maintain that an essential characteristic of a great italian wine should be that it comes from italian grapes. it is half-true that sassicaia was the first super tuscan: the 1968 was contemporaneous with enzo morganti’s all-sangiovese vigorello (also, then, a vino da ta-vola, because incompatible with chianti classico’s blending regulations) from san felice. but sassicaia was certainly the first barrique-aged wine of italy; the first great italian cab-

ernet; and the first italian wine to be awarded 100 points by that maker and breaker of reputations, robert parker. the vintage that received the perfect score was the 1985.

arguably the most interesting lot – and certainly the most expensive single bottle – to be offered this summer will be at christie’s geneva on 15th may. a 238-year old bot-tle of vin Jaune 1774, owned for eight generations by the vercel family in arbois, is estimated at chf40,000-50,000 / €34,000-42,000 (sek302,670-373,885).

the american wine writer alice feiring – the so-called “high priestess” of “natural” wine – wrote in a blog post titled “who told christie’s about vin Jaune?” that “our little secret, the Jura, is over… is even a more esoteric genre of wine go-ing to become the next big thing, only because so far it has been so undesirable it’s safe from counterfeiting? but whether someone else is going to dump a lot of dough for an old bottle of vin Jaune, a wine people don’t know about, is questionable. most assume the Jura is a distilling island off of scotland, not the independent-minded region nestled between dijon and switzerland, north of the alps, separat-ing the rhone and the rhine (sic), a region that has been ig-noring the international markets and styles, mostly because they themselves have been ignored.” alice also noted, “an-other 1774 from the same producer went for €57,000 at the annual percée du vin in 2011” (actually it was 1773).

also of interest in geneva is “a magnificent collection of latour 1901-2000”. latour recently declared that it will no longer participate in the annual en primeur circus and from now on will sell only mature wines from its cellars. if no young latour is coming onto the market then surely the prices for older wines will increase. the may auction held by jointly by systembolaget and stockholms auktionsverk includes a bottle of 1945 château mouton rothschild, long-acclaimed as one of the greatest wines of all time. ’

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coming at the end of the war, the ‘victory vintage’ in 1945 was a wonderful symbol of peace. michael broadbent mw describes it as “arguably one of the greatest vintages of the 20th century (producing) long-lasting wines of the highest quality’. throughout france ungrafted, mature vines – none had been replaced during the war – gave the highest qual-ity grapes. in bordeaux, mouton-rothschild, despite having an ill-equipped winery, was particularly brilliant. broadbent has famously described mouton 1945 as “a churchill of a wine”, and not just in reference to the wine itself, either. to commemorate the end of the war, this was the first vintage of mouton to feature a bespoke label, based on churchill’s ‘v for victory’, by a young french artist called philippe Jul-lian. every vintage since, mouton has enlisted an artist to design a new label. ’

in June 1993, the château’s owner baronne philippine de rothschild served the ’45 to more than 200 guests at a din-ner. the idea was to pour magnums, of which only 1,475 were made. however, when a magnum was opened for inspection, the maître de chai decided that the wine was not yet ready and bottles were served instead. this is truly a wine built to last.

naturally, such exalted quality comes at a price. mou-ton rothschild 1945 is now more expensive than it has ever been. in march 2012 a 12-bottle case sold in – where else? – hong kong for us$177,000, or $14,750 a bottle (sek100,889), a record price for this wine. a single bottle made $13,000 (sek88,920) in september 2011, again in hong kong. with an estimate of sek35,000 ($5,120) and ap-parently in reasonable condition (“u. us, bin soiled label”) the systembolaget bottle could be a relative bargain.

a five-bottle lot of château lafite rothschild 1983-1990 is estimated at sek27,000. current market prices for single bottles of the 1983, 1985, 1986, 1989 and 1990 vintages

would total $3,650 (sek25,350). the once insatiable de-mand for lafite in china is no more. lafite, it has turned out, is just another wine. like gold and oil, it became overpriced because of speculative buying. andy Xie, a shanghai-based independent economist, saw it coming. in november 2010 he wrote, “what i have seen and heard in the past few months convinces me that not just lafite but the whole fine wine market is a bubble. like other assets, the force for the bubble is the low interest rate environment. bernanke is a bigger reason for fine wine prices than 1.3 billion chi-nese… if i had a lot of lafite, i would be selling.” ’

figures and anecdotal evidence show that the brightest star in the current fine wine market is domaine de la ro-manée-conti. the only drc wine in the systembolaget sale is a bottle of la tâche 1989. as of april, 30 bottles of this wine had been sold at auctions in 2012 for an average of $1,525 (sek10,600). the price has increased by 50% since 2010 and is still climbing steeply.

in addition to the sales outlined above, there are also auc-tions being held in hong kong on 25th may by acker mer-rall & condit, Zachys and christie’s. three into one doesn’t go and at least one of these auctions is likely to be squeezed by the competition.

additionally, christie’s is auctioning wine in amsterdam on 30th may, in london on 7th June, new york on 15th June and paris on 20th June. acker merrall has sales in new york on 19th may and 23rd may, as well as in chicago on 9th June. Zachys will be in new york on 7th June and los ange-les on 22nd June. bonhams other sales dates are 19th may in new york (the same as acker), 23rd may in hong kong (only two days before the triple-header) and on 5th July in london. sotheby’s concludes the summer auction season on 11th July in london, with a london sale also being held on 13th June.

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priStine WineS from Stellar priVate collectionS take centre Stage at bonhams hong kong 2012 spring fine & rare wines auction

auction

23 may at 6:00 pm

Venue

island ballroom, island shangri-la hoteladmiraltyhong kong

the bonhams hong kong 2012 spring fine & rare wines auc-tion offers an exceptional selection of fine and rare wines from around the world ranging from legendary french burgundy

and bordeaux to iconic new world wines carefully sourced from pristine private collections. a total of 300 lots with an estimate of hk$7 million will go to block on 23 may at the island shangri-la hotel in conjunction with the rarest single malt whisky and man’s chan cognac collection sale.

the top lots come directly from the private cellars of wine connoisseurs. an outstanding european collection consists of the rarest burgundy - 2 cases of romanée conti 1988 in their pristine original wooden cases with sequential num-bers. from bordeaux comes 2 magnificent cases of petrus 1982, a case of lafite rothschild 1982 and a case of latour 1982. this eminent collector bought only first growth bor-deaux and romanee-conti and purchased them from an uk wine merchant between 1988 and 2000. from the time the wines were delivered to him they have been stored in the

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bottle/Size item Vintage low est. high est.

12 bottles domaine romanée conti, drc (2 cases) 1988 hk$750,000 hk$850,000

1 bottle domaine romanée conti, drc 1999 hk$78,000 hk$100,000

12 bottles la tâche, domaine de la romanée-conti 2000 hk$140,000 hk$170,000

6 bottles vosne romanée, cros parantoux, e. rouget 1993 hk$34,000 hk$45,000

12 bottles château pétrus, pomerol (2 cases) 1982 hk$480,000 hk$600,000

12 bottles château margaux, margaux 1982 hk$75,000 hk$90,000

12 bottles château lafite rothschild, pauillac 1982 hk$350,000 hk$450,000

12 bottles château latour, pauillac 1982 hk$170,000 hk$220,000

12 bottles château l’angelus, st. emilion 2003 hk$14,000 hk$18,000

1 bottles vosne romanée, cros parantoux, henri Jayer 1988 hk$34,000 hk$45,000

10 bottles domaine du comte liger-belair assortment 2009 hk$22,000 hk$29,000

private cellar of his london house at a constant temperature of 14 degrees centigrade, ensuring immaculate conditions for his stellar collection. another impeccable collection comes from a hong kong burgundy connoisseur which features highly regarded do-maines from liger-belair, meo camuzet, ponsot, rousseau and emmanuel rouget.coming from the cellar of a united states east coast gen-tleman is an important single-owner collection comprising ready-to-drink claret, including a case each of haut brion 1986, lafite rothschild 1988 and pichon-lalande 1989.

in addition, a fantastic array of wines from the great vine-yards of california, italy and australia are also featured in this exciting auction.

F I N E W I N E o n yo u r R e a d e r Pa dN ow ’s t h e t i m e t o f i l l u p yo u r re a d e r p a d w i t h s o m e co n t e n t .

Yo u c a n d ow n l o a d Fi n e Wi n e a s a Pd f f i l e a n d re a d i t o n t h e re a d e r.

P l e a s e p a s s t h i s o n t o f r i e n d s a n d a cq u a i n t e n ce s.

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fineSt and rareSt WineSfeaturing two superb continental cellars

london | 13 june | +44 (0)20 7293 6423

wine lovers are offered the opportunity to acquire vinous gems from the most prized châteaux and domaines in this June sale, which features two impressive collectionsfrom continental europe.

the first, from the original cellar of a 500-year-old castle, boasts youthful bordeaux first growths in addition to his-toric vintages such as 1928 and 1947. the breadth anddepth of this collection are remarkable, testament to the exquisite taste of its owner.

a double magnum of château latour 1961, sublime sau-ternes as epitomised by château d’yquem 1943 and a magnum of romanée-conti 1986 are among the star lots. a large selection of old spanish vintages and rhône wines from guigal, including the highly sought-after triumvirate of vineyard plots, la mouline, la turque and la landonne, complement this beautiful collection.

the second, from an 18th-century château, was amassed

over the past two decades for the pure pleasure of enter-taining. the bordeaux ranges from 1955 to 2006 and fea-tures first growths alongside top right bank wines, while an array of burgundy from 1953 to 2006 is interspersed with rare vintages of domaine de la romanée-conti. legendary italian wines, iconic californian estates and champagne add to the appeal of this sale.

3 i sothebyswine.com

Wine lovers are offered the opportunity to acquire vinous gems from the most prized Châteaux and Domaines in this June sale, which features two impressive collections from continental Europe.

The first, from the original cellar of a 500-year-old castle, boasts youthful Bordeaux First Growths in addition to historic vintages such as 1928 and 1947. The breadth and depth of this collection are remarkable, testament to the exquisite taste of its owner. A double magnum of Château Latour 1961, sublime Sauternes as epitomised by Château d’Yquem 1943 and a magnum of Romanée-Conti 1986 are among the star lots. A large selection of old Spanish vintages and Rhône wines from Guigal, including the highly sought-after triumvirate of vineyard plots, La Mouline, La Turque and La Landonne, complement this beautiful collection.

The second, from an 18th-century château, was amassed over the past two decades for the pure pleasure of entertaining. The Bordeaux ranges from 1955 to 2006 and features First Growths alongside top Right Bank wines, while an array of Burgundy from 1953 to 2006 is interspersed with rare vintages of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Legendary Italian wines, iconic Californian estates and Champagne add to the appeal of this sale.

london | 13 june | +44 (0)20 7293 6423

above One of the collections comes from a 500-year-old castle (left), while the other originates from an 18th-century château (right).

Finest and Rarest Wines Featuring Two Superb Continental Cellars

LO_Wine7.indd 3 20/04/2012 10:09

one of the collec tions comes from a 500-year-old castle (left), while the other originates from an 18th-century château (right).

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Scotch Single malt & inVeStmentS!

In the previous issue, we wrote about investing in Single malt Whisky from Scotland. We intend to continue with this theme while the interest is great and new consumers, or investors, are knocking on the door for more information. The intention is to raise awareness of this global trend and give you, our readers, a number of interesting ideas for investing your hard- earned money. We’ve divided this article into three parts. The first deals with the current market and how we see it, and the next 5-10 years of development. We describe how to go about selling one or more rarities, and finally, we provide information on the auction houses and online auc-tions which, in our judgment, are dependable and professional in their practice.

the fact that more and more people collect whiskey is no longer secret or a story invented to impress work colleagues and neighbors. no, the fact is that large sections of the country’s population have cabinets at home stuffed with rarities, purchased in airports and stores throughout the world, many of them on a whim because it was a really ‘cool’ bottle, or the label was different or, more unlikely, the price was right! since buying them, a lot of these bottles have just been standing there at home. time passes by and perhaps our tastes or drinking habits have changed. suddenly, for some reason, these bottles pop up again, perhaps because of moving house and so on. these bottles can prove to be valuable, very valuable in fact! a good friend recently told me that his father had sadly passed away and that, well-hid-den and tucked away safely in the drinks cabinet, he found a lot of old bottles, some of which turned out to be 40’s and 50’s, blended scotches. at that time they were the height of fashion and actually still are. after a quick check with some friends in u.k., it appeared that several of these bottles were to be found on the internet and had commanded relatively ‘big bucks’! having said this, we are given to understand that the collecting passion is high all over, which may be an indication of an exciting and unexpected source of revenue. what do you think?

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the market today is far from saturated. there are still in-teresting items to buy, although slowly but surely, these limited editions and vintage malt whiskies will disappear from the market. what makes this happen? well, once the market forces get hold of this, suddenly there are very few of the top brands’ older vintages left. we see none of the younger blends of the named vintages; they´re not inferior in taste perhaps, but don’t have quite the same mystique. do you remember when the brazilians, indians, chinese and other well-populated countries began to acquire an appre-ciation of scotch malt? well that´s when the market for col-lectors becomes rather quickly drained. what´s left is less interesting whisky that doesn´t have any special vintage, relatively young malt whiskey that lacks the complexity that many connoisseurs appreciate. we think that a great deal of the interest in scotch malt whisky is due to the fact that they have an age, a so called vintage. it’s so easy to buy a gift for someone on important birthdays or someone bows out of the company after 40 years. “good old anders who´s just turning 21” and so on.

we are confident that the top 10 most reputable distiller-ies in scotland can offer the speculator his desired object, and why not the dalmore? founded in 1839 on the banks of cromartie, about a 30 minute drive north of inverness, situated in an absolutely stunning part of the country, the highlands! the dalmore currently ranks as the most inter-esting in the eyes of an investor. the distillery had the op-portunity to save some of the older barrels when the malt boom died off about 10-15 years ago. today this represents outstanding single-malt whiskys with great age and in lim-ited editions. their aurora 45 year-old is sold out and the

astrum 40-year old is more or less sold out too. this is the kind of thing that prods the investors interest which in turn wakes up the market forces.

we mentioned in our last issue that the dalmore sold the most expensive bottles of 75cl whisky in the world and this in the face of stiff competition. if you want more infor-mation for a better understanding of these facts then we recommend you check out the ”highland whisky”. here you will find explanations of why some brands ‘stick out’ in value, while others remain stagnant. we want to emphasize that investments generally apply only to limited edition se-ries from this group of 7-10 producers and / or bottles for various reasons that have just been launched. as in the case of the ‘1984 george orwell’ from the Jura distillery on the western coast of scotland about 10 years ago, which cost about £30 and is now sold for £125 - £150 at auction!

if you´re sitting brooding about one or more treasures here, then we recommend that you contact bonhams www.bonhams.com or mulberry bank auctions on www.mulberrybankauctions.com

When Will theSe auctionS be in 2012?

mulberry June 26 - glasgow. Bonhams June 27 - Edin-burgh, June 28 NY, october 10 - Edinburgh, october 28 - NY, 6 december - Edinburgh.

online auction firms that are recommended are the scotch whisky auction www.scotchwhiskyauctions.com and thomas krüger on www.whiskyauction.com

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www.bonhams.com

www.mulberrybankauctions.com

www.scotchwhiskyauctions.com

www.whiskyauction.com

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these auction houses take approximately 10% in fees, although bonhams will take up to 25%. it is advisable to check this out before you go running off!

if you don´t feel comfortable contacting overseas compa-nies, there are other options. the systembolaget, in col-laboration with stockholm auktionsverk, arrange beverage auctions where you can buy and sell. the interest is growing here as well. from this spring, 2012, they will only be offer-ing online auctions.

visit www.stadsauktion.se and read up on it. the next auction will take place very soon on the following dates: monday, may 21 at 13:00, Tuesday, may 22 at 13:00, Wednesday 23 may at 13:00

“how much are my single-malts worth?” you may wonder. the systembolaget website will be found under the tab ”drinking auctions”, and also ”evaluation form” (highlight-ed), a form that you must fill in carefully. email that to the specified address and wait. you also have the opportunity to visit the stockholm auktionsverk in malmö & gothen-burg, and of course stockholm. there you can get your goodies appraised.

i recommend that you go into the sb’s website and read the fine print - it’s very interesting. someone once asked: ”can you sell just one bottle?” the answer is - yes, you can. the object is more valuable if it’s in its original packaging.

evaluation criteria can also be found on the systembolaget website.

a general assessment of the more interesting single malt industry and its investment possibilities is to be very thor-ough in your research. do not buy anything at auction that seems questionable and of course, you have to be able af-ford to wait 5-10 years before anything happens! don’t expect your bottle to increase in value overnight! as in all other investments it is the market forces, trends, and availability that dictate your success. if you’re lucky, after only a year your bottle may have accrued a slight ”profit”. good luck …

a feW tipS!

the dalmore has emerged as a “major player” in the last 3-5 years. their limited edition series of trinitas, eos, se-lene, candela, aurora, astrum, 1978, etc. have raised a few eyebrows. particularly when a bottle of 62-year-old the dalmore sold for £125 000 just before christmas! if you´re interested we recommend that you go to the dalmore’s website www.thedalmore.com and check out some excit-ing projects. “the constellation collection” malt whisky from 1964 to 1992 is a most remarkable series. everything from 67 bottles (1964) to 778 bottles (1978) and everything in between. truly a delicate task for the collector/ investor and a very nice dinner topic over a good meal and then later over a “wee dram” of your favorite malt.slainthe!

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www.stadsauktion.se

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http://www.wineshanghai.com


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