measuring chart - detailed

8/13/2019 Measuring Chart - Detailed

1/16

1 SEX BODICE FRONT

The 1SEX BODICE usesa complex drafting systemthat ensures an accuratefit that accomodates unevenbodies, odd postures of shoulder and neck and body proportions that differ from the garment industry standards.

It works equally well for men, women and children.

2

11SEXBODICE FRONT CENTER FRONT = A-B

BEGIN BY MARKINGTHE CENTER FRONT& CENTER BACKWAIST, & SIDE WAISTWITH SAFETY PINS

Tie twill tape around the waist and bust to give yourself clear positionsfor measurements. If you are unsure about where the waist is, havethe person bend sideways. The waist is where the torso dents in.

The center front base of the neckline it the hollow between the twocollar bones. When you measure the center front make sure to holdthe tape measure out even with the bust points, not flat against thechest in the hollow of the cleavage.

1

6

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

5

4

3

2

1

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

5

4

3

2

1

B

A

7 3/4"

1'-5"

1'-5 1/4"

1'-4 3/4"1'-2 1/2"

9"

7 3/8"

4 7/8"

5 7/8"


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C D

1SEXBODICE FRONT FRONT CHEST DROPThe distance from the hollow of the neck to thechest width line.

FRONT WIDTH

@ ARMHOLEBREAKPOINT = C-DThe armhole is an oval. The bottom tiltstoward the front. The breakpoint on an

armhole is at the point that the curve of the ovalstops curving out from the top and startsturning under toward the bottom.

On the body this position is located at thepoint where the muscles of the torso jointo the arm. 3

B

E

1SEXBODICE FRONT

FRONT SHOULDER HEIGHTThe front shoulder height isfrom the base of the neck atthe shoulder seam, over thebust point and thenperpendicular down tothe waist.

The shoulder seam sits on the high arcof the shoulder curve.

To find the base of the neck at theshoulder seam, make your hand flatand run it down the side of the neck.Where it stops at the shoulder is theproper point. 4

1

2

3

4

9

5

6

7

8

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

1

7

6

8

2

1

3

4

5

4

2

3

1

2

3

1 2 3 4 5


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1SEXBODICE FRONT

FRONT SHOULDER WIDTHThe shoulder width is from one shoulder point to theother shoulder point, across the neckline at center front.

If it is difficult to determine where thehigh point of the shoulder curve is, lay two pencils along the shoulder and the arm. A perpendicular drop from their crossing marks the point.

Keep in mind that the angle of thearmhole, in combination with the fronttorso silhouette is an important design

line. Angling to form a V can be usedto flatter the body. This may mean thatyou will place the shoulder point further out than the actual anatomical point.5

1SEXBODICE FRONT

FRONT SHOULDER SLOPE = B-H

Measure from the shoulder point, over the bust point, to the center of the waist.

6

1

3

2

4

5

9

6

7

8

3

1

2

4

5

6

7

8

5

1

2

3

4

5

6

8

7

2

9

1

3

4

7

6

8

1 2

3 4

5 6

7

B

H

EF


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1SEXBODICE FRONT

Measure from the base of the neck to thecorner of the shoulder along the apex of the curve of the shoulder.

SHOULDER SEAM = H - I

71SEXBODICE FRONT

CENTER FRONT CHESTTO SIDE SEAM = N-M

the front bust circumference. It is easiest to take the whole chestmeasurement with the tape and observe the numbers for each of the front and each of the back. Make sure the tape measure isparallel to the floor. 8

21 3 1 2

3

1

2

1 2

12

3 4

N M

I

H


5/16

7 13/16"

8 1/2"

1'-6 1/4"

1'-4 1/2"

7 3/4"

7 3/4"

1'-0 7/16"

5 3/8"

1'-5"

1'-4 1/4"

1SEXBODICE BACKThe unisex bodice backdraft that matches the1SEXBODICE FRONT

1/2 ease is automaticallyadded to the shoulder seamand to the back width at thebreak-point.

3/4 is added to the chestcircumference for a total

of 3 in the chest.

11SEXBODICE BACK

CENTER BACK LENGTH = A-B A

B

The center back starts at the largebone at the base of the neck andgoes down the spine to the waist.If the person has shoulder bladesthat protrude prominently, hold thetape measure out away from the

body to match the distance theyproject from the basic body shape,

just as you do for the bust areain the front.

2

1 6

1 5

1 1

1 4

1 3

1 2

1 0

9

8

2

1

7

6

5

4

3


6/16

CD

1SEXBODICE BACKBACK WIDTH AT THEBREAK-POINT = C - D

The measurement across the width of the back

between the points where the arm joins on to thebody. The break-point of an arm cye is the placewhere the curve of the oval stops curvingout from the top and starts curving under toward the bottom.

BACK WIDTH DROPThe distance from the top of the center back to the back

width. Keep in mind that the placement of the height ofthe top of the center back line visually effects the illusionof posture. Dropping the back neckline the right amount for aspecific body will enhance the look of erect posture, for instance. 31SEXBODICE BACK

BACK SHOULDER HEIGHT = B - E

Measure from the point where thebase of the neck meets the shoulder seam, over the high point of theshoulder blade and then perpendicular down to the waist.

Keep in mind that the shoulder seam travels along the apex of thearc of the shoulder curve. (See the Front Shoulder heightmeasurement instructions for detailed description of how to find thebase of the neck.) Here again, placing the seam toward the front or back of the actual base point can change the posture illusion. 4

E

B

1

3

2

1 2

4

3 4 5 6

1 2

1 1

1 0

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

5

4

3

2

1


7/16

1SEXBODICE BACK

BACK SHOULDER WIDTH

Measure from one shoulder point

to the other, straight across theback. On people with very erectposture the tape measure will goacross right at the base of theneck.

See the 1SEXBODICE FRONT Front Shoulder Width measurementinstructions for detailed information on determining the shoulder point position.

51SEXBODICE BACK

6

EF

BACK SHOULDER SLOPE = I - H

Measure from the shoulder pointover the high point of theshoulder blade and then to thecenter back at the waist.

This measurement controls the angle that the shoulder seamslopes down from the side base of the neck.

7 6

5 4

3 2

1

5

1

3

2

4

7

6

8

9

1 0

1 2

1 1

1

3

2

4

5

H

I


8/16

1SEXBODICE BACK

K L

BACK CHESTCIRCUMFERENCE = K - L

Measure from side seam to sideseam at the same level as thebust point in the front, beingcareful to stay parallel to thefloor.

It may be easier to take the total chest circumference and the backand front and half measurements at the same time. 7

1SEXBODICE BACK

BACK WAIST DEPTH = A - N

Measure from the base of theback neck, over the high pointof the shoulder blade and downto the waist at the side seam.

8

A

N

8

1 1

9

1 0

1

3

2

7

6

5

4

2

1

6

3

5

4

21 1

2 3


9/16

1SEXBODICE BACK

BACK WAIST = N - B

Measure from the side seamto the side seam keepingparallel to the floor. Payparticular attention to see if the sides are uneven.

It may be easier to take the entire waist measurement,the back and front measurements and the halfmeasurements all at the same time. 9

N B1 2

45


10/16

The SLEEVE block

Standard Dressmaker Sleeve. It fits the1SEXBODICE. The blue drafting linesalso mark positions for turning this intoa 2 part tailored sleeve.

SLEEVE

Dressmaker Sleeve Pattern

2

1

UNDERARM LENGTHMeasure with the armstraight down at theside.

Start at the bottom of thearmhole position andmeasure against the armdown to the wrist.

(As a patternmaker, youdecide where you want thatposition. Make sure it is thesame as when you measuredthe side seam of the bodice.)

The wrist position is wherethe hand bends back fromthe arm.

1'-10"

1'-4"

3 3/4"

6 1/2"

3 9/16"

7"

3 9/16"


11/16

BICEPT CIRCUMFERENCESLEEVE

3

BICEPT Bend elbowat 90

Measure with theelbow bent.

SLEEVE

ELBOW CIRCUMFERENCE

4

Bend elbowat 90

Measure with theelbow bent.

ELBOW


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5

SLEEVE

WRIST CIRCUMFERENCE

Measure thewrist over thewrist bones.

SLEEVE

6

ARM LENGTH

OVERARM LENGTHStart to measure fromtop of shoulder where

the shoulder seam wouldmeet the armhole seam

(See instructions for1SEXBODICE FRONTfor how to determine theshoulder point.)Measure

with armslightly bent

at elbow. Carry the tape measure

over the outsidecorner of the elbow.

Place hand on lower thigh. Measure to placewhere hand turnsback on the arm.

WRIST


13/16

PANTS

3'-5"

2'-1"

61/4"

8

1'

83 /4"

6"

10"

8

Square cut basic pant fit block with dance ease in crotch and optional gusset for extra movement.

3'-5"

2'-1"

61/4"

8

1'-1"

10"

8

6

7"

1

The back measurements are the same positions for the front and theback.

The high slope of the waist to the crotch seam divides theautomatically added ease between the to of the rise and the crotchdepth position. Those who have seen patterns for mens breechesfrom the 1700s through the 1800s will recognize this feature. whichaccommodate sitting astride a horse comfortably.

If you add fullness to the waist and hips and pivot to shift the straight

grain to the side seam, as in a jean-cut, the angle of the waist slopewill diminish.

The additional extension in the crotch eliminates the need for adance gusset when needed. Other wise, you can erase it beforedeveloping your pattern design.


14/16

6

5

4

3

2

1

3

2

1

4

3

2

1

3 5

3 4

3 3

3 2

3 1

2 3

3 0

2 9

2 8

2 7

2 5

2 6

2 4

2 2

2 1

2 0

1 9

1 8

1 7

1 6

1 5

1 4

1 3

1 2

1 0

1 1

9

8

7

6

5

3

2

1

4

4

3

2

1

2

is measured from the waist along thebody to the ankle. Since the length

is an artistic decision, if you alwaysmeasure to the center of the outer ankle you will always have anaccurate reference point.

SIDE WAIST TO KNEEis measured to the center of the knee cap.

PANT BACK

KNEE

A

B

A

CHIP DROP

THIGH DROP

PANT BACK

3

is measured along the body from

the side waist to level where thebuttocks are the fullest in the back.

If the thighs are so full that they bulgeout on the sides, it is wise to have a

measurement also.THIGH DROP

SIDE SEAM

HIP DROP


15/16

PANT BACK

4

1 2

1 1

1 0

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

defines the placement of the bottom of thecrotch curve. To take this measurement,

seat the person on a table ora flat wooden chair. Use aridged ruler to measure fromthe waist level to the chair,holding the ruler perpendicular to the chair.

CROTCHDEPTH

A

D

D GHIP

CIRCUMFERENCE

HIP CIRCUMFERENCE

Take separate measurements for the front and back.

It is easier to do this by takingthe total circumference at thesame time as you take the frontand back.

Remember that the buttocks tostomach ratio varies from personto person.

This computer draft asksfor the total back hip and the totalfront hip measurements.

The computer automatically adds3 total ease to the hips.

PANT BACK

5

CROTCH DEPTH


16/16

PANT BACK

6

X

Y

THE RISEis the length of the crotch seam.Measure the front and backseparately. Measure from thewaist to the point where theinseam would meet the curve.

Remember that tummies andbuttocks come in an endlessvariety of shapes and combinations.

Any system that takes a singlecontinuous rise measurement

ignores the realities of nature.

7

should be measured snuggly around the widest place.

3 of ease total is automaticallyincluded in the block pattern for each.

It is best to measure the ankle over the ankle bones since that is thelargest circumference the leg opening

will have to fit over. Of course thewidth of the ankle meaurement is adesign decision and you can enter whatever you want.

THIGH

KNEE

ANKLE

D H

Q P

S R

THIGH, KNEE & ANKLEPANT BACK

measuring chart - detailed

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