mens apparel ii 2010

8/3/2019 Mens Apparel II 2010

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SEMESTER VI CORE PRACTICAL XII

MENS APPAREL PRACTICAL II

Designing, drafting and constructing the following garments for the features prescribed

List the Measurements required and Materials suitable

Calculate the cost of the garment

Calculate the material required lay out method and direct measurement method

1. Pleated trousers pleats in front, darts at back, side pocket, fly with button /zip.

2. Bell bottom trousers pleat less, bellbottom, side pocket, fly with button/ zip

3. Boxer shorts

4. Bermudas

5. Jeans tight fitting, jeans, cut, with pockets

6. Pyjama elastic/tape attached waist, with fly

7. S.B.Coat coat collar, coat sleeve, pocket

Reference:

Scientific Garment quality K.M.Illege and sons Plot No.43, Somuvar Peth, Pune

411 011.

Easy cutting Juvekar, Commercial Tailors Coporation Pvt. Limited , 166,

Dr.Ambedkar Road, Dadar.

Commercial system of cutting, - Juvekar, Commercial Tailors Coporation Pvt.Limited , 166, Dr.Ambedkar Road, Dadar.

Zarapker System of cutting, - K.R. Zarapker, Naveent Publications Limited,

Dress making smt. Thangam Subramaniam, Bombay tailoring and embroidery

college, 32 North park street, Ambattur, Chennai.

Practical clothing construction part and II Mary Mathews, Cosmic Press, Chennai.


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Pleated trouser

Introduction:

Pants (trousers) are prepared in many styles and fashions, but the cutting

principles are the same. Pants are also called as slacks. Pleated pants are generally

prepared with four pleats (two on each side) and two darts (one on each side at the back).

The front pleat is always kept wider than the side one. It is prepared with waist band,

with an arrangement of loops. The bottoms are either plain or with permanent turn-ups.

Side pockets are either vertical or slanting.

Features:

Pleats in front,

Darts at back,

Side pocket,

Fly with button /zip

Suitable Material:

100% cotton, Polyester, cotton polyester, twill, polyester blend.

Measurement Required:

Full length 104cm (41")

Inside leg 73cm (29")

Waist Circumference 76cm (30")

Seat Circumference 92cm (36")

Bottom Circumference 43 cm (17")

Thigh Circumference 45cm (18")

Belt width 4cm (1")


3/30

Material Required:

Measurement method:

= 2length + in turns

= 2 (41) + 2"

= 84"

Layout Method:

The total length of the fabric required =

Instructions for drafting:

Front:

Square lines from 0

1-0 = full length less belt width plus "

2-1 = inside leg + "

3-2 = half inside leg - 2"

Square lines from all these points

4-2 = seat + 1"

5-0 = same as 4 to 2

Join 4-5

6-4 = one-twelfth seat


Join 6-7

8-5 = waist + 3" for pleats and seams

Shape 8-7 as shown

9-4 = one-twelfth seat less "

10-4 = seat + "

Strike a line midway across the angle 10- 4- 9

11-4 = half of 9-4 plus "

Shape fork 10- 11- 9


4/30

12 is midway of 9 to 2

Square down from 12 -13- 14

17-14 = bottom

18-14 = same as 17 to 14

19-9 = "

Join 19-17 and shape 9-15

16-13 = same as 15 to 13

Join 16-18 and shape 7-16

20 is squared up from 12

21-5 = "

Shape 20-21

22-20 = 1" for pleat


Suppress 1" in the pleat at 23

24-14 and 25-24 = each 1" for turn ups

26-25 = 1"

Draw lines parallel to 17-18 from points 24,25 and 26

Mark pocket at a distance of 1" below 8

Pocket opening = one-sixth seat

Back:

27-9 = 2 to 2"

28-15 = 1"

29-17 = 1"

Shape 27-28 and join 28-29

30-10 = 1" for seat angle. This quantity should be increased for an erect figure

and reduced for a stooping figure

Join 19-30 and produce to 31-32

32-31 = 1 to 1" according to flat or prominent seat

33-27 = "

Shape fork 30-33 as shown


5/30

34-32 = waist + 1"

Draw side seam 34- 16- 18

35-34 = one-twelfth seat + "

36 is squared down from 35 and equals 3"

Add 4 to 4" below 18-29 for turn ups

Fly:

The fly to be attached at the centre front of pants should be drafted as follows

Use the front fork curve and draw the shape 1- 2- 3 as shown in the

accompanying figure.

4-1 = nearly 2"


6-3 = "

Shape 4- 5- 6

Waist band:

1-2 = waist + 1"

3-1 = 1" or taste


Join 3-4.

5-2 = "


Join 5-6


8-2 and 9-4 = one-sixth waist

Shape 5-8 and 7-9

Draw 10-11 at a distance of 1" from 1-3, the extension for the right side.

If the extended belt is desired, extend the left side to 12-13 which is 3 to 5" from

1-3


6/30

Components:

Front 2

Back 2

Waist Band 2

Fly Opening 3

Construction Details:

Finish the pleats and construct the side seam pockets on either side

Finish the fly opening by joining the left and right front pieces

Construct the darts at the back

Finish the side seams by joining the front and back part of each side

respectively

Finish the crotch seam

Attach the waist band with loops

Finish the hem

Attach the fasteners

Cost of calculation

Material cost = 120

Thread cost = 2

Canvas cost = 5

Fasteners cost = 3

Stitching cost = 70

Total = 200


7/30

Bell bottom trousers

Introduction:

These pants are prepared with narrow knee and flared down from knee to hem to

give the bell shaped effect that is its upper portion from waist to knee is kept like

ordinary pants, while the lower one is kept very wide. Both men and women wear this

type of pants. These pants with wide legs are very popular among youngsters. The

accompanying draft is of the plain top that is waist belt attached without taking pleats.

Features:

Pleat less,

Bell bottom,

Side pocket/hip pocket,

Fly with button /zip

Suitable Material:

100% cotton, Polyester, cotton polyester, twill, polyester blend.






Knee round 48cm (19 ")



Belt width 5cm (2 ")


8/30

Material Required:

Measurement method:


= 2 (41) + 2"

= 84"

Layout Method:



Front:

Square lines from 0

1-0= full length less belt width plus "




4-2 = seat + 1"


Join 5-4

6-5 = "

Join 6-4



Join 7-8

9-6 = waist + "

10-4 = one-twelfth seat less " or to taste

11-4 = half of 10-4 plus "

Shape fork 6- 7- 11- 10



9/30

13-14 is squared down from 12

15-13 and 16-13 = each knee round (or) bottom less 1" (or) to taste

17-14 = bottom

18-14 = same as 17 to 14

Shape 9- 8- 16

Join 16-18 and 15-17

19-10 = "

Join 19-15

Shape 10-15

Back:

20-10 = one-twelfth seat less to 1"

21-15 = 1"

22-17 = 1"


23-4 = one-sixth seat


25-24 = 1"

26-20 = "

Shape 25- 24- 23- 26

27-25 = waist + 1"

Join 25-27

28-23 = Seat + 1"

Shape 27-28-16 outside seam



take darts " wide and 3" long at 29 and 30 each

Mark pockets with 4" opening below the darts

Keep 2" to 3" below 17-18 and 22-18 for in turns


10/30

Fly:




4-1 = nearly 2"


6-3 = "

Shape 4- 5- 6

Waist band:

1-2 = waist + 1"

3-1 = 1" or taste


Join 3-4.

5-2 = "


Join 5-6



Shape 5-8 and 7-9


If the extended belt is desired, extend the left side to 12-13 which is 3 to 5" from

1-3

Components:

Front 2

Back 2

Waist Band 2

Fly Opening 3


11/30


Construct the side seam pockets on either side

Finish the fly opening by joining the left and right front pieces

Construct the darts at the back


respectively


Attach the waist band with loops

Finish the hem


Cost of calculation

Material cost = 120

Thread cost = 2

Canvas cost = 5

Fasteners cost = 3

Stitching cost = 70

Total = 200


12/30

Boxer shorts

Introduction:

Boxer shorts are mostly worn as a sports wear. It is designed to give more comfort

to the wearer. It is worn till knee length or a little above the knees. Boxer shorts

are finished with elastic waist band. Boxers allow for more freedom in the

selection of a fabric type and print design.

Features:

Elastic attached

Pocket

Suitable Material:

100% cotton, Polyester, cotton polyester, jersey knit, polyester blend.


Full length 16"

Waist circumference 30"Seat circumference 36"

Material Required:

Measurement method:


= 2 (16) + 2"

= 34"

Layout Method:



13/30

Components:

Front 2

Back 2


Front:

Square lines from 0

1-0 = seat + 3" = 9+3 =12"

2-0 = full length + " = 16+" = 16"

3-1 = seat + 1"


Join 3-4

5-3 = one-twelfth seat = 3"

6-3 = one-sixth seat = 6"

7-3 = of 5-3 + "

Shape 4-6-7-5

8-2 = 5-1 less " or half of bottom

Shape inside seam 5-8

Back:

9-5 = 1 "

10-5 = "

Join 4-10

11-10 = same as 6-3


12-4 = "

Join 0-12

13-8 = 1 "


Keep 1 " above 0-4 and 0-12 for casing

Keep 1 " below 2-8 and 2-13 for in turns


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respectively


Finish the waist with elastic

Finish the hem

Cost of calculation

Material cost = 30

Thread cost = 2

Elastic cost = 3

Stitching cost = 30

Total = 65


15/30

Boxer shorts

012

4

611

7

31059

13 8

1

2

Front & Back

(Cut - 2)

Boxer shorts

straightgrain


16/30

Bermudas

Introduction:

Bermuda shorts, also known as walking shorts or dress shorts, are a

particular type of short trousers, now widely worn as semi-casual attire by both

men and women. These Bermudas are worn as evening wear mainly used in

leisure time. It is mainly finished with elastic or cord at the waist. Usually pockets

are attached on either side of front and back.

Features:

Elastic or cord attached

Pocket

Suitable Material:

100% cotton, plain/printed, Polyester, cotton polyester, jersey knit, polyester

blend.

Measurement Required:Full length 20"

Waist circumference 30"

Seat circumference 36"

Bottom round 20"

Material Required:

Measurement method:


= 2 (20) + 2"

= 42"

Layout Method:


17/30


Components:

Front 2

Back 2

Pocket 2


Front:

Square lines from 0

1-0 = seat + 3"

2-0 = full length + "

3-1 = seat + 1 "


Join 3-4



7-3 = of 5-3 + "

Shape fork 6-7-5

8-2 = 5-1 less " or half of bottom

9-5 = " join 9-8

Shape inside seam 5-10 as shown

Back:

5-11 = 1 "

Join 4-9

12- 9 = same as 6-3


13-4 = "

Join 0-13

14-8 = 1 "


18/30


Keep 1 " above 0-4 and 0-13 for casing

Keep 1 " below 2-8 and 2-14 for in turns



respectively


Finish the waist with elastic

Finish the hem

Cost of calculation

Material cost = 65

Thread cost = 2

Elastic cost = 3

Stitching cost = 30

Total = 100


19/30

Bermudas

0

12

4

6

11

7

3

10

5 9

13

8

1

2

Front & Back

(Cut - 2)

Bermudas

straightgrain

14


20/30

Jeans

Introduction:

Jeans (also called Levis or Cow Boy Pants) are very popular among

youngsters. They are similar to narrow pants. They are generally kept tight from

thigh to bottom, but some also prefer bell bottom. There wont be any pleats at the

front and darts at the back. The darts are concealed in the yoke which is kept at

the back. Flat fell seam is mostly used. Contrast color thread adds decoration to

the garment. It is mostly subjected to rough use, so it is also called as work cloth.

Features:

Tight fitting,

Jeans cut,

Pockets.

Suitable Material:

Denim, Corduroy, suede, etc






Knee round 48cm (19 ")



Belt width 5cm (2 ")


21/30

Material Required:

Measurement method:


= 2 (41) + 2"

= 84"

Layout Method:


Components:

Front 2

Back 2

Yoke 2

Pocket 2


Front:

Square lines from 0

1-0= full length less belt width plus "




4-2 = seat + 1"


Join 5-4

6-5 = "

Join 6-4



Join 7-8


22/30

9-6 = waist + "

10-4 = one-twelfth seat less " or to taste

11-4 = half of 10-4 plus "

Shape fork 6- 7- 11- 10


13-14 is squared down from 12

15-13 and 16-13 = each knee round (or) bottom less 1" (or) to taste

17-14 = bottom

18-14 = same as 17 to 14

Shape 9- 8- 16

Join 16-18 and 15-17

19-10 = "

Join 19-15

Shape 10-15

Back:

No darts are taken at waist

20-10 = one-twelfth seat less to 1"

21-15 = 1"

22-17 = 1"




25-24 = 1"

26-20 = "

Shape 25- 24- 23- 26

27-25 = waist + 1"

Join 25-27

28-23 = Seat + 1"

Shape 27-28-16 outside seam



23/30


Yoke:

27 A = 1"

25 B = 3 to 3"

Join and cut on line A-B

Add about " at C and shape A- C- B

Keep about to " outside A- C- B on both the sides for seams.

Fly:




4-1 = nearly 2"


6-3 = "

Shape 4- 5- 6

Waist band:

1-2 = waist + 1"

3-1 = 1" or taste


Join 3-4.

5-2 = "


Join 5-6



Shape 5-8 and 7-9



24/30


Yoke part is attached to the right and left back pieces.

Patch pockets are attached at the back

Finish the pockets at the front

Finish the fly with the zip

Join the front and back side seam


Finish the inside leg seam

Finish the bottom hem

Finish the waist band with loops Attach the fasteners

Cost of calculation

Material cost = 125

Thread cost = 3

Fasteners = 12

Stitching cost = 60

Total = 200


25/30

Pyjama

Introduction:

Pyjama is a loose fitting trouser. It can be used as an indoor or outdoor

garment. It is worn with kurthas, night shirt, slack shirt or T-shirt. It is usually

prepared with a casing arrangement for inserting a cloth tape at the waist. If it is

prepared with a fly-button arrangement, waist round should be reduced. The

bottom round of a night dress Pyjama should be little less when compared to an

outdoor Pyjama. If required, attach one pocket on the right side or two pockets on

both the sides.

Features:

Elastic or tape attached waist

Suitable Material:

Cotton, printed, polyester cotton, poplin and cambric.





Material Required:

Measurement method:


= 2 (36) + 2"

= 74"


26/30

Layout Method:


Components:

Front 2

Back 2


Front:

Draw line 0- 1- 2 at a distance of " from the selvedge

1-0 = seat + 3"

2-0 = full length + "

3-1 = seat + 2"


Join 3-4



7-3 = half of 5-3 + "

shape fork 6- 7- 5

8-2 = same as 5 to 1 less " or half bottom

9-5 = "

Join 9-8 and shape 5-10 as shown

Back:

11-0 = seat + 1"

Join 9-11 and produce 1" to 12

Join 12-0

13-5 = 1"

Shape fork 11- 14- 13 as shown

15-8 = 1"

Shape inseam 13-15

Keep 1" above 0-4 and 0-12 for casing


27/30

Keep 2" below 2-8 and 2-15 for inturns

Pocket marks:

16-0 = 3"



Attach the front and back pieces along the side seam

Finish the front and back crotch seam

Finish the hem

Finish the inside leg seam by joining front and back

Finish the waist band with elastic or tape

Cost of calculation

Material cost = 65

Thread cost = 2

Elastic cost = 3

Stitching cost = 30

Total = 100


28/30

S.B.Coat

Introduction:

S.B.Coat is a sleeved outer garment or jacket worn directly over the shirt

or over vest. It is a two button single breast coat with step collar. It has two

double jetted cut pockets, with flaps and one welt breast pocket. It can be worn as

a formal or informal wear. The sleeve is of two pieces, which is having a seam

along underneath and a seam at the back. It may be with or without vents. Vents

can be placed either at the side seam or centre back.

Features:

Coat collar,

Coat sleeve,

Pocket

Suitable Material:

Cotton, polyester cotton, wool blend, cotton blends.


Chest Circumference 92cm (36")




Waist length 41cm (16")

Half back 19cm (7")

Shoulder 21.5cm (8")

Sleeve with shoulder 80cm (31")


29/30

Material Required:

Measurement method:


= 2 (30) + 2" = 62"

Layout Method:


Components:

Front 2

Back 2

Collar 2

Sleeve 4


Stitch the dart and finish the pockets in the front pieces

Finish the pockets in the front lining

Join the back pieces along the centre back in both lining and coat piece

Join the shoulders

Prepare the sleeves with lining and join it to the body part

Prepare the collar and join it to the neck part

Now attach the front side lining to the facing


Cost of calculation

Material cost = 400

Lining cost = 60

Canvas cost = 60

Thread cost = 5

Fasteners cost = 15


30/30

Stitching cost = 700

Total = 1240

mens apparel ii 2010

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