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Cotton Silk

Linen

Wool

Viscose

Polyester

Lycra

NylonAcrylic

Basic Fibers



Fibers - basic building blocks

Classification based on source

Natural

Cotton, Silk, Linen, Wool

Man-made Regenerated

Rayon's - Viscose, Acetate, Cuprammonium

Tencel, Polynosic, Modal, Cupro

Synthetic Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, PVC, PPN



Fiber typesClassification based on physical nature

Staple fibers ± Cotton, Wool, Linen, VR, PSF

Filaments

± Silk, PFY, VR

± Micro deniers



Staple Fiber & Filaments



Fiber Properties

Wool- Comfortable, Good to feel, Versatile,Lightweight, Good insulator, Wrinkle-resistant,

Absorbent, Durable(Like TWEED).

Cotton- Comfortable, Breathable, Machine-washable,

dry-cleanable, Good strength, Drapes well, Soft hand, Absorbent, Wrinkle.

Silk- Soft & Crisp hand, Luxurious & Drapes well,

Thinnest of all natural fibers, Hand-washable or dry-

cleanable, Poor resistance to prolonged exposure tosunlight



Fiber Properties .. contd

Linen - Comfortable, twice as strong as cotton, Hand-washable or dry-cleanable, Crisp hand, Absorbs sweat.

Tencel- Produced from the cellulose of wood pulp,

Adds softness, Luxurious drape, Breathable, Good

absorbency, Practical performance of man-made fibre

Viscose - More breathable, Dyes deeper, Sheen,Wrinkles easily, Pilling is a problem, Shrinks after washing, Susceptible to mould and silverfish, Absorbssweat, Poor wet strength.



Fiber Properties .. contd

Polynosic - Drapes well, Excellent luster, Breathable,Can be dyed in bright colors, Characteristic: Hazy

appearance.

Polyester - Strong, Crisp, soft hand, Resistant tostretching and shrinkage, Washable or dry-cleanable,

Quick drying, Resilient, wrinkle resistant, excellent pleat

retention (if heat set), Easy care.



Woven Fabric Manufacturing

Cotton system

Spinning

Yarn

Weaving

Greige fabric

Wet ProcessingFinished fabric

Inspection Packed fabric



Spinning

Cleaning & beating points

Scutcher

Carding OE spng

Combing

Draw frame

Simplex

Ring frame Yarn



Y arn ty pes & Characteristics

Spun - carded, combed

Long staple spng - Worsted, Spun Silk

Filament - Mono & Multifilament

Doubled yarn - single & 2-ply

Stronger, Uniform, blending

Yarn twist - S & Z, TPI, High Twist, Knit yarns.

Stretch yarns - Lycra, Mechanical

Slub Yarns, Lurex



Y arn Finishes

Singeing Mercerizing

Bleaching, Dyeing

Synthetics Texturising

HS Y

Anti Static



Blending

Fiber blending can be carried out at all the foll stagesof fabric manufacturing :

at Spinning

at Doubling at Weaving

Advantages - To get the best properties of both

Natural and Synthetic fibers.



PolyesterCotton

Polyester Cotton

67%33%

Material-Blending



Chief Value Cotton (CVC) /Cotton Rich

Polyester (40%)+Cotton(60%)

Cotton

Comfort,S

oft handle Polyester

Crease resistance, Easy care



Polyester/Terry Wool(P W)

Polyester (67%) and Wool (33%) Usually referred to as Poly wool

Wool has

Better drape, gives warmth & absorbency

Polyester

Wrinkle resistance

Gives strength



Polyester Cotton (PC)

Polyester (67%) and Cotton (33%) Cotton

comfortable to wear

greater strength Polyester

Resistance from creases, Quick dry, ETI



Y arn numbering systems

Indirect system Ne - English Count (Cotton, P/V) 140s, 120s, 100s, 80s,

60s, 50s, 40s, 30s, 20s, 16s, 14s, 12s, 10s, 9s, 6s, 1s

Nm - New Metric (P/W Worsted)

Direct system Tex - Universal system

Denier (All filament yarns) 22D, 44D, 75D, 150D, 300D

Fine & Coarse yarns - Handle, Luster, Uniformity, Dye

Uptake, Drape



Doubled yarns

2 ply 2/80s = 40s equivalent

3 ply

3/60s = 20s equivalent

Advantages -

Stronger & Durable

Improved Hand feel, Cleaner look, Luster

Reduced tendency to pill, abrasion resistance



Weaves

Fabric

F

inishes



Weaving

Interlacement of Warp & Weft on Loom

Preparation for weaving

Warping, Sectional Warping

Sizing

Warp beam preparation

Gaiting & Doffing



War p n Weft

Yarn on 2 sides of Fabric end

Warp (Vertical)

Weft (Horizontal)

pick



Fabric-Weave representation

.

Weft

yarns

(Red)

Warp yarns

(Blue)

Selvage

(Yellow)



Fabric Construction

Blend ratio - C/P 60/40

Count - 2/40s Ne x 2/20s Ne

Construction (epi x ppi) - 130x60 (fin.)Weave - 3/1 RHT

Weight - 270 GSM



Fabric- Weaves

The most commonly used weaves are : Plain weave - Poplin, Tussore

Hopsack, Matte weave

Oxfords - PPO, Classical Twill weave

Herringbone, Chino, Gabardine, RHT, LHT Satin/Sateen

Other - Mock leno, Honeycomb, Dobbies, Jacquards,Pique, Corduroy, Double Cloth

Non-Woven



Plain weave - Max no. of interlacements



Ty pes of Twill weave

- Diagonal patterns on surface

Twill (LHT) Herringbone

(Broken Twill)

Gabardine



atte Weave

Also known as BASKET WEAVE

It·s a variation of plain weave.

Uses doubled yarn to produce a basket like design on theface of the fabric



Chambray

Gives a two tone look

Used in : All types of garments

History : Named after Chambrayprovince in France

Colour Warp Yarn

White Weft Yarn



Fil-a-Fil

Gives two tone look Used in : All types of garments

Alternate Colour &

White Warp Yarn

White Weft Yarn



Oxford

att feel fabric

1.Classical (Larger heads)40sx2/30s

2. PPO (Small heads),2/80sx2/80s

Used in :Shirts - light weights

Trousers - heavy weights

Benefit :Hard wearing

History :Popularized in the US, as proper executive

wear by Brooks Brother¶s

Classical PPO



Corduroy

Used in : Bottom wear and outerwear Benefit : Hardwearing fabric for outdoor wear

Warmth providing fabric

History : Named after Corde Du Roi,French for - Cloth of King



Denim

Twill Chambray - Indigo dyed Warp & UndyedWeft

Used in: Jeans - heavy weights

Outerwear - heavy weight

Shirts / Tops - light weight Benefit: Hard wearing

Trendy History: Named after a place in

France called Diemes.



What You Need To Know About Trousers

Finishes

Fabric

Weaves



Wet Processing

Desizing

Scouring, Singeing

Bleaching

Mercerising

Padding & development - types of Dyes

Stenter & Finishing

Sanforising, Zero-Zero

Calendering, Peaching, Decatising etc



Types of Dyeing

Top dyeing - P/V, Melanges

Yarn dyeing - Shriting & Bt wts

Beam Dyeing - Denims

Fabric dyeing - Piece dyeds, Cross dyeds

Garment dyeing

Printing - Block, Screen, Rotary, Flocking, Burn outs,

Laser



Finishing : Chemical & Mechanical

Softener

Enzyme

Microsanding, Liza, Peaching

Aero (Biancalani) Resin, ETI, Non-iron

Stain repellent / Soil release

Anti Bacterial

Absorbeant / Quick dry

Denim washes - Bleach, Stone, Acid, Perlite,

Sandblasting

PU coating

Anti-static, Flame retardent



Fabric Pro perties - tech analysis for testing performance

Count, Contruction, GSM, Blend %, TPI

Pilling

Tear & Tensile strength

Shrinkage %

Colour fastness - Wash, Light, Rub, Wet Alkali in both dry &

wet conditions

CRA, Seam Slippage, Growth %

Ironability, DP rating, Abrasion resistance



Washes and Finishes

Washes A process by which finished garments are put into huge

washers and treated with chemicals to get the required effect.

Garments are washed to influence:

Physical properties like:softness, drape,absorbency and creasing The appearance of fabric by changing the colour or luster

Shrinkage



Ty pes of Washes

Softner Wash This is the simplest type of wash.

Does not use enzymes

Not harsh on the garment.

For eg:Fleet finish by Allen Solly

Stone wash: Used on trousers to get the faded look.

Enzyme wash

Sand wash



Ty pes of Washes

Feather wash

An Enzyme wash to get softer feeling trousers.

Other types of washes

Golf ball wash

Pumice wash etc.



Washes and Finishes

Finishes

µFinishes¶ refer to processes/treatments a fabric may

undergo after it has been made and dyed.

Finishes are given :

To make the fabric more suitable for its intended end use.

For aesthetic purposes

For functional purposes (referred to as a treatment)



Finishes

Types of Finishes Emerising

A process by which garments are passed through rollers to

soften the fabric

Microsanding A lower degree of emerising that the garment is put through

For eg:Hawaiian Conference shirts

Peaching

A process of brushing the fabric using fine wire brushes

For eg:Drawstring pants by Allen Solly



Special Treatments

Wrinkle Free A chemical process where trousers are resinated and

baked at specific temperatures to give the required

properties

Different brands have this range as a part of theoffering

DURA PRESS- Van Heusen collection of anti wrinkle shirts.

PERMA PRESS- Louis Philippe wrinkle free trousers and

shirts

UNCRUSHABLES-from Allen Solly



Special Treatments

Anti bacterial-DURAFRESH From Van Huesen

Stain resistance

Stain release



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