michelle legro_a trip to japan in sixteen minutes

Upload: baudelairean

Post on 14-Apr-2018

215 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

TRANSCRIPT

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    1/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 1 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    MAY 2013

    MICHELLE LEGRO

    A TRIP TOJAPAN INSIXTEEN

    MINUTES

    IN 1902, SADAKICHI

    HARTMANN ATTEMPTED TO

    TRANSPORT A THEATER

    FULL OF PEOPLE ACROSS A

    VAST OCEAN USING ONLY

    PERFUME AND AN

    ELECTRIC FAN

    DISCUSSED: Two Expatriate Poets, SoilOpen to Foreigners, The Adam and Eve of

    Japonisme, A Common Language,Meditative Loafing, Fairyland, The ProustEffect, Poor Chrysanthemum, A Devil Out

    on a Furlough

    Ezra Poundthe ex atriate oet

    http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/
  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    2/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 2 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    unhinged fascist, and obstinate

    dreamerwas in the productive phase

    of a mental breakdown at the time of

    his 1945 arrest for treason and his

    subsequent detention at an Americaninternment camp just north of Pisa,

    Italy. While confined in a cage for

    much of the daysix feet square, the

    grass hot and matted from his fretful

    pacingit was after a transfer to an

    officers tent (following a psychiatric

    evaluation) that Pound began to write

    the Pisan chapter of his Cantos, an epic

    poem of bohemian life and loss, of

    political misadventures and Odyssean

    searching. The canto included a vast

    catalog of the people hed known and

    admired in his youth in New York City,

    artists like himself who had lost the

    better part of their minds to war, but

    who had somehow survived to see their

    art die before them. He called these

    men the lost legion, and its patron

    saint was a writer hed lost touch with

    years before. He wrote in Canto 80:

    as for the vagaries of our friendMr. Hartmann,

    Sadakichi a few more of him,

    were that conceivable, would have

    enriched

    the life of Manhattan

    or any other town or metropolis

    the texts of his early stuff are

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    3/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 3 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    with the loss of the fly-by night

    periodicals

    Pound was obsessive about his great

    work, discarding draft after draft. In

    the same canto that contained the

    remembrance of Sadakichi, Pound

    would make the admission that haunts

    all artists: Beauty is difficult.

    Around the same time as Pounds

    imprisonment, housed in his own

    unofficial interment on the Morongo

    Indian reservation in Banning,

    California, critic and poet Sadakichi

    Hartmann waited out the last years of

    the Second World War deeplyimpoverished and depressed. His small

    shingled house was located at the dusty

    halfway point between Los Angeles and

    Palm Springs, where movie stars would

    motor past on the freeway for a quick

    weekend under an umbrella, returning

    to the set smelling of chlorine.Sadakichi was sixty, and it was hard to

    imagine the handsome young man he

    had once been, the critical darling of

    Greenwich Village, the fellow Ezra

    Pound delighted in when theyd begun

    their correspondence in the early part

    of the century. Now in his twilight

    years, alcoholic and sickly, Sadakichi

    -

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    4/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 4 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    ,

    from his friends in New York, then Los

    Angeles. He had run hard aground

    with nearly everyone he had ever met.

    His drinking partner, the actor John

    Barrymore, had called him a livingfreak sired by Mephistopheles out of

    Madame Butterfly.

    At the far edge of his adopted country,

    Sadakichi had been within an oceans

    reach of the completed circle of his life,

    the twinkling lights of Japan, his

    birthplace, seemingly visible just

    beyond the Pacific Coast Highway. He

    had tried to make the leap back home

    just once, more than forty years before,

    in one of the most fateful and

    humiliating performances of his life.

    For years, he had in his mind a scent

    no, less than that, an idea of a scenta

    gentle puff, released into the cool night

    air. It would melt continents, allowing

    him to cross vast oceans like a fast

    skull across a glassy lake. He called this

    scent his perfume concert, the most

    purely aesthetic experience of his self-

    proclaimed aesthetic life. And it woulddeliver him home.

    If beauty was difficult, then by god

    Sadakichi Hartmann would make his

    entire life beautifulhe would wallow

    in its difficulty.

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    5/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 5 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    Carl Sadakichi Hartmann, son of Oscar

    Hartmann of Hamburg and Osada

    Hartmann of Nagasaki, was born

    around 1869* on the small island of

    Dejima, the only slice of soil in

    Nagasaki where foreigners were

    welcome. Before the Meiji Restoration,

    Japan was still, for the most part,

    closed to the West and to Westerners.

    Women of the merchant class were

    allowed to work on the island, some

    taking positions with foreign officials,

    first as servants and often later as

    mistresses. One of these women was

    Osada, Sadakichis mother, who

    married Oscar Hartmann, a German

    official, and quickly had two sons.

    His young mother died when Sadakichiwas less than a year old, and the boy

    became obsessed with the vision of this

    unknown woman. He would tell

    fantastical tales about her, claiming

    she had been refused burial in

    Nagasaki because of her foreign

    marriage, and that her body wascarried over six hundred miles to Kobe

    to be cremated. This was probably not

    true. In 1868, cremation was not

    common in Japan, and the

    transportation of a body over such a

    distance would have been almost

    impossible. Osada was probably buried

    where she died.

    http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro#footnote1
  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    6/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 6 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    With his wife gone, there was little to

    keep Oscar Hartmann in Nagasaki, and

    he decided that he would raise his two

    sons in Germany. At the age of four,

    Sadakichi would leave Japan, never to

    return.

    The year Madame Butterfly was

    published as a short story in Century

    Magazine, Sadakichi was thirty years

    old, having lived in America longer

    than he had lived in any other country.

    The story itself was derived from aFrench novel,Madame Chrysanthme,

    by Pierre Loti, which was itself based

    on events that may or may not have

    happened among the naval officers of

    Nagasaki. The Puccini opera wouldnt

    have its New York premiere until 1906,

    and by then the storys main characterswere almost mythical, the Adam and

    Eve of Japonisme.

    In the story, Lieutenant Benjamin

    Franklin Pinkerton, his name a hard

    edge cleaved to a gentle color, has

    decided that for his tour in Japan, he

    will go native and take a Japanese wife

    before settling down with an American

    woman. Is the bride very pretty? a

    friend asks Pinkerton in the English

    translation of Puccinis libretto. Fair

    as a garland / of fragrant flowers, he

    replies. Brighter than a star in the

    heavens. / And for nothing: one

    hundred / yen. Pinkertons Japanese

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    7/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 7 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    wife is but the shadow of substance:

    she is a perfume, she is the gust of a

    butterfly wing. His marriage to her will

    be temporary. His real wife will be

    flesh and blood, she will be American,

    and it is with her that his life will

    begin. About this clever plan he

    declares: Fate cannot crush him. / He

    tries again undaunted. / No one and

    nothing breaks his plucky spirit.

    Sadakichi would often refer to himself

    as the son of Madame Butterfly, aninnocent haunted by a tragedy he could

    not set right. (It was a comparison

    John Barrymore had clearly tired of

    when the actor called Sadakichi a

    living freak.) But if there was anyone

    in this story Sadakichi resembled in his

    turbulent life, it was the devilish,practical Pinkerton, smelling of

    whiskey, intoxicated by his Japanese

    ghost. He enters upon our stage with

    the declaration that the love of the

    world is for the taking; he raises a glass

    to his American future.

    Sadakichi Hartmann arrived in

    America in 1882, at the age of twelve,

    disowned by his father in Hamburg

    and shipped off to live with a great-

    uncle in Philadelphia. The young man

    had only lived for one year or less in

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    8/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 8 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    his native country. He spoke with a

    strong accent, later described by a

    newspaper as half German, the other

    half not altogether definable. He was

    thoroughly German in all that he did,

    sarcastic and serious, forever hunched

    under a small rain cloud. And yet he

    was hailed by friends and strangers as

    coming directly from the Orient. Self-

    taught and curious, he made his first

    contact with what would become an

    influential circle of acquaintances by

    knocking unannounced on the door of

    the poet who lived across the river in

    Camden, New Jersey: I would like to

    see Walt Whitman.

    The poetwith his long gray beard and

    open, flowing shirt, which revealed his

    naked chestgreeted him by sight.Thats my name. And you are a

    Japanese boy, are you not?

    If literature was the passport into this

    new kind of modern society, Walt

    Whitman was the common language,

    and the home of Whitman is where,

    around the age of sixteen, this lanky,

    German Japanese boy with a dark suit

    and a pince-nez began his American

    pilgrimage into the dark heart of

    bohemia.

    Whitman fried an egg for the young

    man, and over breakfast they spoke ofacting, of the theater, of Shakespeare

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    9/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 9 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    Sadakichi declared himself too tall to

    play any of his foolsof what it means

    to be American, of Japan and the

    beautiful bay of Nagasaki, though I did

    not know much about it from personal

    recollection. Whitman agreed it must

    be beautiful. He sent the boy home

    with a proof of one of his poems and

    told him to come back soon. Hurrying

    to the Camden ferry, the words

    Sadakichi held in his hand were these:

    After all, not to create only, orfound only,

    But to bring, perhaps from afar,

    what is already founded,

    To give it our own identity,

    average, limitless, free;

    To fill the gross, the torpid bulk

    with vital religious fire;

    Not to repel or destroy, so much as

    accept, fuse, rehabilitate;

    To obey, as well as commandto

    follow, more than to lead;

    These also are the lessons of our

    New World;

    While how little the New, after

    allhow much the Old, Old World!

    A new kind of intellectualimmigration had begun to fill the low-

    rent apartments, all-night cafs, and

    empty storefronts of turn-of-the-

    century New York, one that shared as

    much with the newly arrived Russian

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    10/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 10 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    Jews, Germans, and Irish of the

    tenements as it did with bored

    housewives from Portland, Maine, and

    college graduates from Davenport,

    Iowa. Unlike the sharp fold in the

    corner of a calling card on Fifth

    Avenue, there was a special form of

    introduction into New Yorks

    bohemian life: a book tucked under the

    arm, a poem copied for a friend.

    Shared enthusiasm for Tolstoy might

    make a new Russian acquaintance at a

    meeting for the Industrial Workers of

    the World, or a few lines of Shelley

    could soften the heart of a hardheaded

    anarchist.

    But it was a common love of the man

    who contained multitudes, the proto-

    bohemian Walt Whitman, that seemedto be the hothouse that contained all of

    these blooming personalities. By

    seeking out Whitman first, above all

    others, Sadakichi shrewdly positioned

    himself as both a reader and someone

    to be read about. He felt he belonged in

    the pantheon of Whitmans faces fromLeaves of Grass (The pure,

    extravagant, yearning, questioning

    artists face). It was a privileged realm

    of characters that Sadakichi cast on

    and off like a parade of masks

    throughout his life, even to the very

    end (The ugly face of some beautiful

    Soul, the handsome detested or

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    11/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 11 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    .

    At their first meeting, Whitman

    addressed Sadakichi Hartmann as the

    Japanese boy, but once the poet began

    to get to know him, he recognized that

    the young man was simply

    unclassifiable. You say Sadakichi

    represents the Orient, he reportedly

    said. He represents a good deal more

    than that.

    Work, or rather, employment, was not

    something that much interested

    Sadakichi Hartmann. After traveling to

    Paris and meeting symbolist poet

    Stphane Mallarm (and getting fired

    from a magazine job), Sadakichi, attwenty-three, published Christ: A

    Dramatic Poem in Three Acts,

    described byPublishers Weekly as a

    sensual and almost blasphemous

    drama. The play was immediately

    banned, copies were publicly burned

    by the New England Society for theSuppression of Vice, and Sadakichi was

    arrested, spending his Christmas in

    jail. By his mid-twenties hed lost a job

    with architect Stanford White after

    suggesting his buildings might be

    improved upon only by pigeons. He

    made a meager living writing two

    columns a week for theNew Yorker

    - -

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    12/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 12 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    ,

    newspaper that was the third largest

    daily in the city. He wrote about actors,

    tramps, and paintersthose on the

    artistic and social fringes of New York

    life. (Writers somehow always endedup on the top of the social heap.) He

    signed his columns with pseudonyms:

    Caliban, Hogarth, Chrysanthemum;

    the trickster, the satirist, the emblem

    of Japan. His writing sometimes

    angered his friends, including his

    mentor, Whitman, but he also

    championed new artists such as

    Thomas Eakins and Alfred Stieglitz.

    Sadakichi had had a prodigious career

    in New York as the poet-king of a small

    group of intellectuals in Greenwich

    Village. A 1916 article proclaimed him

    the weirdest figure of American

    lettersHe is Baudelaire, Grard de

    Nerval, Verlaine he is a poet, artist,

    author, critic, lecturer and professional

    esthete. He was a flaneur long after

    the age of flaneurs had ended, and

    most people didnt quite know what to

    make of him. If the writing of the time

    was meant to agitate, then Sadakichi

    was a soft-hearted bull, more

    interested in sniffing flowers than

    charging red capes.

    In New York, he pursued his friends

    obsessively to the point of ruin. He

    would burst into their lives and thenflame outa turbulent, unforgettable

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    13/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 13 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    c aracter. He ost rien s as

    passionately as he made them, but he

    was only following the natural rhythms

    of a New Yorks bohemians way of life.

    The editor and critic Max Eastman,

    writing a review of a novel that

    featured a cast of Russian Jews, wrote:

    They burn with hot fire Their being

    is self-justified. They live and are

    sources of life.

    Everyone involved in this newly

    modern life was searching for a way tolive, a model to live by, a maxim to live

    for. Individual energies were envied

    among these creatures of self-

    amplification, as historian Christine

    Stansell described the bohemian in her

    bookAmerican Moderns: Bohemian

    New York and the Creation of a New

    Century. It wasnt enough to make art;

    artists had to live a life of constant

    inspiration, to themselves and to their

    friends, bound together by an endless

    circle of reading, writing, and

    publishing. The bread and butter of

    Greenwich Village life was the word: it

    was a vocation, an evocation. Writing

    was the transformative medium, the

    call to arms for feminists, communists,

    and anarchistsall other art forms

    were superfluous.

    Sadakichi had more in common with

    the decadent hero of Joris-KarlHuysmanss 1884 novel,Against

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    14/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 14 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    Nature, about a dilettante who turned

    meditative loafing into an art. His hero

    dreamed of different ceiling treatments

    for his rooms and of embellishing a pet

    tortoise with jewels, all within the

    suffocating confines of his country

    home. Unmoored from family, nation,

    creed, and custom, Sadakichi wanted

    to live beyond the world of dreary

    causes, in a dreamyif a little fussy

    corner of his very own. In his criticism,

    Sadakichi wrote of beauty, of poetry,

    interested in teacups and vases, inactors and their greasepaint, in sweet

    smells mixed with sweat.

    The essential quality of bohemian life

    was dissatisfaction, a paranoia that

    everyone else was truly living. Ezra

    Pound wrote, If one hadnt beenoneself, it would have been worthwhile

    to have been Sadakichi. Like those

    who burned with hot fire, the savage

    desire for life, and the jealousy among

    those who were truly living, led to a

    slow self-immolation of one of the eras

    brightest minds.

    Some of his friends accused Sadakichi

    of riding their coattails, others saw him

    as intensely curious, outwardly

    arrogant, and secretly modest. When

    friends and acquaintances spoke of

    Sadakichi, they tended to eulogize him.

    Sadakichi is indeed a dead author,one friend wrote, only his art is

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    15/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 15 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    entombed while he personally is still

    very much aliveat times. For much

    of his life, Sadakichi had honed the

    curious talent of being lost to history

    before he was even dead: one of the

    most neglected figures in American

    arts and letters. He was accomplished

    in everything he did, except in the one

    thing that matteredan art that lasted

    beyond life. Despite all the young men

    who had tried to engage him as their

    mentor, Whitman saw something

    unique in the nineteen-year-old

    Sadakichi: I have more hopes of him,

    more faith in him than any of the boys.

    They all seem to regard him as a

    humbugor if not that, a

    sensationalist anyhow, or an

    adventurer. I cant see it that way. I

    expect good things of himextra goodthings Whitman had shaped

    Hartmanns view of the way a true

    artist should move through the world:

    accepting the hazard of living with an

    open heart. Thus the terrible fate for

    members of Pounds lost legion: They

    just died / They died because they justcouldnt stand it.

    In the fall of 1902, when he was around

    thirty-five years old, the papers

    announced that Mr. Sadakichi

    Hartmann, the eccentric art critic,

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    16/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 16 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    would present in a few months time a

    short performance entitled A Trip to

    Japan in Sixteen Minutes. The piece

    was described as a melody in odors.

    The turn of the twentieth century saw a

    flurry of sense experimentation. The

    color organ was patented in 1895, an

    instrument with colored panels that lit

    up and changed in time to music. A few

    years later, one of the first electric

    organs, the Telharmonium, would have

    its debut in a specially built concerthall in New York. Music had been

    mechanized, canned, and zipped along

    wiresthere was no reason to believe it

    couldnt be aerated as well.

    But no one had ever heard of a

    perfume concert. It was an invention

    so faddish the newspapers had inked

    themselves in excitement and still

    managed indifference by the second

    column. All lovers of good smells are

    expected to patronize the concert, one

    hopeful feature began. However, It

    may be that after a time the olfactory

    nerve of the New York gatherings will

    become jaded, and will require smells

    of more and more pungency. It was

    suggested Mr. Hartmann take a trip to

    Brooklyns Gowanus Canal.

    Sadakichi was not a chemist. He knew

    very little about the making of smell,only the impression that it left on his

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    17/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 17 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    dreams. Smell is the most emotional

    of all the senses of man, he wrote,

    and is able to arouse sentimental as

    well as intellectual associations more

    swiftly that any other

    Over the months of planning,

    Sadakichi had been

    uncharacteristically quiet about the

    performance. He had booked the

    theater and told a few friends, who

    helped him gauge the forcefulness of

    the perfumes he intended to use. Thisleft the public imagination to wonder:

    would there be violins stuffed with

    roses? Rhythms drummed out with

    two brittle sticks of cinnamon? What

    would the music smell like, or, rather,

    how would the smells sound?

    The last evening of November 1902

    was miserable and colda blizzard

    would cover the city the next day. The

    perfume concert was the featured

    event on a bill of a casual Sunday pop,

    held at the enormous entertainment

    complex known as the New York

    Theatre, on Broadway between Forty-

    fourth and Forty-fifth streets. It was a

    remarkable pleasure palace that

    contained a music hall, roof garden,

    bowling alley, Turkish bath, and two

    theaters. The fare that evening was

    mostly unremarkable: a ragtime band

    followed by a minstrel duo. It was onlythe final act of the evening that

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    18/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 18 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    promised something startlingly new:

    A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes,

    to be performed by a Mr. Hartmann

    with the help of two geishas.

    When Sadakichi Hartmann shuffledonto the bare stage of the New York

    Theatre with two heavily powdered

    women trailing behind, he still had the

    long and narrow face of his youth with

    an expressive, wide mouth. But there

    was something finalized about his

    features now, like a retired Kabukiactor still wedded to his makeup.

    Visibly Japanese, and clad in an

    immaculate shirtfronton which was

    pinned his emblem, a huge yellow

    chrysanthemumhe appeared shy and

    flustered. His two geisha assistants

    appeared uneasy as well.

    Once the audience quieted down,

    Sadakichi cleared his throat and began

    in his German-accented, halting

    English. He proclaimed that he was

    about to take the audience on a journey

    of several thousand miles. And, he

    declared, the vehicle will be perfume

    to lead us into fairyland. Cook never

    took out a larger party with less

    baggage.

    The audience had expected an

    instrument that was at once orchestra

    and ocean liner. Something big andelectrical and gleaming gold, with bells

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    19/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 19 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    an w st es, t ny tt e sw tc es an a

    mahogany seat, in which this man

    would sit and fiddle with ivory knobs

    until each person smelled his concert

    of perfumes and was transported over

    land and sea to the lavender fields ofFrance, the shores of the Aegean, and

    beyond. But there was no orchestra on

    the stage, not even a single instrument,

    just two girls in heavy makeup and

    kimonos, standing next to a pair of

    electric fans and two boxes of perfume-

    soaked linen.

    The first odor is that of roses given us

    as the steamer leaves the wharf.

    Sadakichi motioned toward the

    geishas, who slid the linen in front of

    the fan as if it were a magic-lantern

    show. A soft horn tooted from the

    orchestra to clarify the steamers

    presence. In the space of a minute, the

    auditorium filled with the undeniable

    smell of roses, which snuffed out the

    smoking-car smell that had long

    been a feature of that theater, and

    killed the scent from the musty

    garments of the women sitting in the

    upper boxes.

    The logic behind Sadakichis

    performance was that smell wouldexcite certain memories in the mind,

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    20/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 20 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    muc n e same way e e a

    music did. Everyone has experienced

    that a smell suddenly appreciated

    perhaps of some flower that grew in

    the old homestead where we spent our

    childhood dayssends back ones trainof thought to scenes of the past more

    rapidly and more vividly than any

    other art medium. The nose, he

    explained, was the least developed of

    our sense organs. The eyes have

    learned to appreciate a marble

    sculpture, the ears to discern a cleversymphony. The nose is a primal beast,

    sniffing out food or danger or an

    attractive mate. It seems strange that

    a sense so easily excited has been left

    in a primitive and dormant state, as

    our olfactory nerves undoubtedly could

    be cultivated to such an extent that anartists manipulation of perfumes

    would yield aesthetic pleasures similar

    to music or pictorial art.

    Neuroscientists have since given a

    name to this condition: the Proust

    effect. The Frenchmans three-volume-

    long bite into a tea-soaked madeleine

    set off a number of inquiries into the

    link between smell and memory. In the

    brain, the olfactory bulb nudges close

    to memory-related structures, and

    scientists have determined that the

    olfactory components of an experience

    are often the longest-lastingimpression of an eventsights, sounds,

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    21/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 21 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    and tactile sensations all die a quick

    death. The smells most remembered

    are those that are particularly vivid,

    emotional, or old. It was only natural

    that an artist like Sadakichi, who grew

    up in the culture of the

    Gesamtkuntswerkthe complete

    work of artwould want to create and

    experience where the elements of art

    and life might fuse. A concert of smells,

    carefully orchestrated, might be able to

    link those forgotten memories so that

    one might, in essence, relive a lost

    time.

    At the time it was considered little

    more than a parlor trick that smells

    could conjure up a feeling or memory.

    Newspapers suggested that the

    perfume concert might open an entireindustry of memory aids.

    MANUFACTURE OF ANTI-HOMESICK

    SCENTS TO FOLLOW DEVELOPMENT OF

    NEW YORK FAD, read one headline in

    the Chicago Daily; the article

    explained that city dwellers traveling

    abroad might bring along odorcapsules, so that when faced with

    boredom in Paris or Rome they need

    only open a package marked

    Stockyards Extra-Strength to be

    instantly transported home. In 1906, a

    movie theater in Pennsylvania hoped

    to increase interest in its newsreel of

    the Rose Parade by fanning the room

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    22/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 22 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    ,

    everyone in attendance. A 1960 movie

    calledScent of Mystery was the only

    film ever to use a failed invention

    called Smell-O-Vision, a patented

    system of odors cued to the actions on-screen. At Disneylands California

    Adventure theme park, opened nearly

    a hundred years after Sadakichis

    performance, a gentle smell of citrus is

    spritzed on visitors during a ride where

    they seemingly soar over a grove of

    orange trees.

    The invention of the perfume concert

    was a singular achievement; the

    execution of it was something else

    entirely. Sadakichi insisted that his

    concert would represent an advance in

    technology, that the event had

    previously never been fully realized

    due largely to the lack of an apparatus

    capable of driving odors forcibly into

    an audience and of producing precise

    impressions even at great distances

    Such an apparatus has been invented

    lately.

    The apparatus, an electric fan, was

    now blowing over the audience a sickly

    strong perfume of roses, which spread

    quickly across the orchestra, rising into

    the balcony seats. One man shouted

    that he did not like the smell of the

    scuppers and there were too manyaboard who were seasick. Sadakichi

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    23/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 23 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    in England and were smelling the

    native wild rose. Another voice shouted

    that the creeping odor reminded him

    of the time the gas meter leaked. The

    audience had begun to turn.

    Now we reach Germany, Sadakichi

    continued. The girls slid in a second

    square of linen, and after another long

    minute the distinct odor of violets was

    blown from the stage into the

    balconies. Who does not remember

    plucking violets on a fair morning

    along the banks of the Rhine?

    Sadakichi asked. The violet is

    Germanys flower. But no one in the

    theater remembered plucking violets.

    Violets were soaps and cheap toilet

    water, saltwater taffy and last nights

    whore. Roses were women in fox fur

    and fake hair, or husbands begging for

    forgiveness. The perfumes that

    Sadakichi assumed would carve out the

    landscapes of provincial Europe had

    little or no effect on his audience. The

    nostalgia was his and his alone.

    The performance should have lasted

    sixteen minutes, but Sadakichi was cut

    off at four. The audience stamped,

    cheered derisively and began to pour

    out of the theater, one reporter wrote.

    Poor Chrysanthemum, for so the

    inventor styles himself, looked palerthan this shirtfront. He stammered

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    24/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 24 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    some ng or ano er ns an , an

    fled. Another newspaper reported that

    he bowed, and with his face filled with

    very real pain, said in a broken voice

    that he would have to be excused; he

    could not give the concert under suchconditions. With its large and heavy

    features, Sadakichis face was as open

    and precise as a clocks. Filled with

    pain, it surely resembled, almost

    comically so, the gaping mask of

    tragedy. Unable to stand it anymore,

    he stammered his final words to theaudience: I think I have no more to

    say.

    He had not meant only to create, or

    only to find, but to bring, perhaps from

    afar, what he had already found, to give

    it his own identity.

    When the doors to the theater opened,

    the perfumes rushed out into the night

    air. The snow began to fall that night,

    covering the city in a thick musk of

    white. And everything was forgotten

    except for the snow; all the shapes of

    the city became snow, the taste of theair became snow, nothing was known

    that was not soft and quiet and still.

    Sadakichi Hartmann returned to the

    subject of his perfume concert only

    once in a 1 1 essa titled In Perfume

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    25/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 25 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    Land. In it, a gloomier Sadakichi

    concluded that the concert could never

    have been what he had imagined: an

    orchestra of scents that went beyond

    mere association to sculpt landscapes

    and fairylands. The disconnectedness

    of the various waves of pleasurable

    feeling make it impossible to carry out

    this act to the same pitch of perfection

    as music and painting. The perfume

    was simply a means to an end. What he

    had truly desired that night was a

    concert of pure emotion, waves of

    pleasurable feeling breaking over the

    audience like a great symphonic chord.

    He had unknowingly been telling his

    audience what to feel and, feeling it so

    deeply himself, thought some small

    particle of emotion might burst free

    and catch hold. As Proust scribbled

    away in Paris, Sadakichi grew less and

    less sure of his olfactory theory. The

    absence of memory is undoubtedly the

    cause of the fugitiveness of all olfactory

    impressions; it deprives us of the after

    flavor, the mental repetition of the

    enjoyment we derive from them

    By 1916, Sadakichi had spun out the

    frayed yarn of his youth in the East. He

    had married briefly but prolifically,

    siring five children with his wife, and

    one out of wedlock in an affair. His

    next companion remained hiscommon-law wife, with whom he had

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    26/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 26 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    seven more c ren. e n er on n

    Madame Butterfly, he seemed to join

    himself with women in the Japanese

    fashion Tied for nine-hundred and

    ninety-nine years. / Free, though, to

    annul the marriage monthly, neverheeding the warning of Sharpless,

    Pinkertons friend: Thats an easy-

    going gospel / which makes life very

    pleasant / but is fatal in the end. And

    like Pinkerton, he abandoned nearly all

    of them.

    Sadakichi headed west, first to found a

    theater company in San Francisco,

    later to Los Angeles, where he

    befriended the well-connected John

    Barrymore in much the same way he

    had sought out Walt Whitman years

    before. In Hollywood he became

    known to actors, producers, and

    directors as the sad clown of

    Barrymores circle. It was hard to

    imagine that the middle-aged

    Sadakichi Hartmann had ever been

    young and matinee-idol handsome,

    like the men and women he

    entertained in Hollywood. He grew his

    hair long and wore oversize clothes,

    embracing himself as a grotesque. His

    calling card featured an image of a

    long-limbed man in a black coat and

    fedora, thin arachnid arms stretching

    out from a hunchbacked torso.

    Sadakichi had done the drawinghimself, and a friend described the

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    27/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 27 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    self-portrait as looking like a devil out

    on a furlough. Another friend who

    knew him in this period described him

    as inhabiting the warm shelters of

    mediocre people He equated love

    fulfillment with oblivion and death

    he made a joke out of life, drank a toast

    to death. Impressed by his wit, film

    people would invite him into their

    homesthe fading poet and critic lent

    an intellectual air to Brentwood

    cocktail parties. He was their mystical

    Asian, and played the role dutifully.

    Douglas Fairbanks had cast him in an

    uncredited role as the Mongol Princes

    court magician in his 1924

    swashbuckler The Thief of Bagdad. For

    the part, Sadakichi requested only a

    $250 salary and a case of whiskey each

    week.

    As the war approached, the son of

    Mephistopheles and Madame Butterfly

    was hounded by the U.S. government

    for having two kinds of poison in his

    blood, and he retreated to the small

    shack he had built himself in Banning.He died in the fall of 1944, when the

    war in Europe was in its final push. Its

    hard to know what happened to the

    resting place of his mother after she

    died; her husband and two sons left

    Japan forever. But what is known is

    that the summer after Sadakichi died,

    the Fat Man bomb was dropped over

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    28/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Page 28 of 30http://www.believermag.com/issues/201305/?read=article_legro

    , ,

    and with it any record of his mothers

    brief life.

    And this is where Pinkerton ends and

    Sadakichi begins. His solid American

    wives were less real to him than this

    Japanese ghost. The truest love was for

    the memories hed never had: the

    beautiful bay of Nagasaki, the wild

    chrysanthemum, the body of his

    mother traveling across an ancient

    landscape, unburied. There are no

    perfumes to recall a life unlived.

    A photograph of Sadakichi at the age of

    seventy-seven shows him leaning on a

    rusted gate outside his one-room

    shack, wearing a long jacket tied at the

    waist, a starched collar, and a tie. His

    wrinkled face is shaded from the desertsun by a gray fedora with a black band.

    When Sadakichi saw the photograph,

    he titled it with utmost melancholy

    Looking Down the Road for Visitors

    That Never Come. What use was

    perfume now, he wondered, except as a

    frivolous decoration, a mask? Heconcluded that it might as well be used

    as a disinfectant in hospitals,

    institutions, and private dwellings.

    But on the last few pages of In

    Perfume Land, Sadakichi describes a

    dream he once had that took place on a

    terrace, the Fujiyama mountains in the

    distance. It was the perfume concert of

  • 7/30/2019 Michelle Legro_A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes

    29/29

    15/05/13 8:09 AMThe Believer - A Trip to Japan in Sixteen Minutes Michelle Legro

    Sadakichi Hartmann:

    The curtain lifts to reveal a teahouse on

    the cliff of a lake, the cloth brushes

    against the trees and blossoms fall to

    the ground, the first perfume of the

    evening. The guests waft in and out

    from the teahouse, many are served

    with tea, the second perfume of the

    evening. Night falls, the lanterns are lit

    and the dancing girls begin their song.

    As they dance, their robes are cast

    away, each a flower whose scent driftsthrough darkness.

    Filling the air is the one bouquet

    missing from his long-ago concert, the

    perfume of the seventeenth minute

    onward. To drink its tea, a white-

    fingered lady pours hot water over theentire blossom, which stretches and

    yawns until it fits snugly at the bottom

    of a porcelain teacup. In the steam, the

    scent of crushed chrysanthemums fills

    the air.

    In the foreign settlement of Dejima, theJapanese division of the calendar was notthe same as the European calendar.Sadakichi may have been born any time

    between August and November in 1867 or1869. At the beginning of one of his manyshort autobiographical sketches, he wroteChapter IMy birthMy father lost hisdiary and the year of my birth will remainforever unknown to modern history.