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in this issueLearn what you’re seeing from seat 7A; trade four walls for open air at luxurious camping-inspired getaways.

Discover fi ne wines, a thriving art scene and inspiring cuisine against a breathtaking South African backdrop.

Tips to keep kids off the couch; the man who could succeed the Dalai Lama; solar power hits your neighborhood.

Find jeans that fi t; what fashion staple designer Marc Jacobs can’t live without; turn your workout into play.

Transform your basement into a playful paradise; plan for your future by keeping your nest egg safe now.


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t+l journal | obsessions

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The world at 30,000 feet. By JEFF WISE

How to Look

Out an Airplane Window

I’M STRAPPING MYSELF IN FOR A RIDE TO THE EDGE

of the sky. Outside my porthole, the ground crew

is preparing the vehicle for launch. The entry

hatch is sealed, the mobile gantry pulled away.

All systems are go. Soon, powerful thrusters will

accelerate us to more than 500 miles per hour.

At the peak of our trajectory, we will soar above

about 80 percent of the atmosphere. The view of Earth

will be panoramic.

Then the person behind me kicks my seat. Somewhere

in the cabin a baby starts to cry. The college kid next to

me slouches in her seat and flips through a magazine.

Okay, so maybe a morning flight from JFK to Chicago

isn’t all that glamorous. But think about it: At a time »

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TRAVEL+LEISURE

�� And avoid sitting

over the wing! When you’re making reservations

online, keep a tab open to SeatGuru (seatguru.com), a

website with charts on every type of aircraft operated by

every major carrier, including details on wing location.

�� The more you know,

the more you’ll see. A superb reference is America

from the Air by Daniel Mathews and James S. Jackson,

which includes annotated aerial photos of topography

across the United States and explanations of the

predominant landforms. The book also comes with a

CD-ROM of the major continental air routes.

�� Type your route into

Google Earth for a virtual flyover, and

you’ll get a rough idea of what’s in store. The website

fboweb.com generates Google Earth views of exact

routes using up-to-the-minute FAA flight-tracking data.

If you zoom in and tilt at the right angle, the view of

the virtual globe looks just like what you’ll see out the

airplane window.

�� For the sake of

knowing exactly what I’m looking at, I like to

bring a computer with flight-planning software that

electronically plots a route from origin to destination via

the navigational beacons that airliners follow. One such

program is Golden Eagle FlightPrep (flightprep.com).

�� If a river is so big

that its width is discernible from 30,000 feet, the

chances are good that you’ve heard of it. Shorelines are

easy to decipher. Flights between Berlin and Stockholm, for

instance, pass over a large and very striking lagoon on the

coast of the Baltic Sea. This is Szczecin Bay, at the mouth of

the Oder River on the Polish-German border.

�� When you see something re-

markable and can’t figure out what it is, flag down a

flight attendant, who will probably go ask the captain, who

will probably be thrilled to show off his or her geographical

expertise (even if all it involves is checking the GPS system).

One time I was flying north from Phoenix and noticed a

gaping pit in the desert floor. A helpful flight attendant

went up to the cockpit and came back with a positive ID: it

was the famous Meteor Crater, formed by a cosmic impact

50,000 years ago.

� �� You don’t just have to

look down. Some of the most interesting sights are

meteorological—on any flight of more than a few hours,

you’re bound to witness at least one complete frontal

system, and a range of cloud formations. To keep track of

the vast menagerie of clouds, get a copy of The Cloudspotter’s

Guide by Gavin Pretor-Pinney, with extensive (and effusive)

descriptions and photographs. �

Jeff Wise is a T+L contributing editor.

THE VIEW FROM ABOVE, IN SEVEN EASY STEPS

t+l journal | obsessions

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when people are lining up to pay $200,000 for suborbital

rocket rides, I can soar to thirty or forty thousand feet for a

fraction of the price—with beverages and pretzels thrown in

for free. Now that’s a deal.

I didn’t use to care about looking out airplane windows.

Like a lot of people, I stuck to aisle seats and spent most of my

time wishing I were back on the ground. Then I took an intro-

ductory flying lesson and got hooked on small planes. Working

toward my pilot’s license, I learned pilotage, the art of figuring

out where you are by studying what you see on the ground.

It’s surprisingly hard: things don’t always appear quite like you

expect them to. But once you learn to understand the view

from on high, the once-incomprehensible jumble becomes

infused with meaning and, by extension, beauty. After learning

how to interpret the landscape, flying wasn’t just transporta-

tion anymore. It was a real-life IMAX show.

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A LICE TEMPERLEY LIKES TO CAMP. WHICH IS

why the British fashion designer, who escapes

her London workshop to rusticate in a tepee

on her Somerset country estate, was recently

commissioned by One & Only Le Saint

Géran to erect a similar structure on their beach in Mauritius.

The 17-foot-high tepee is decked out with beads, streaming

ribbons, and embroidered patches—a look Temperley likens

to “a jewelry box that glistens in the sand.” One & Only offers

cookouts by the tent—marshmallows included—served by a

liveried butler. By any definition, this is an indulgent experi-

ence, but given its availability in a structure originally designed

for the life nomadic, it signals a shift in our perception of both

luxury and escapism. Suddenly, a heightened sense of well-be-

ing may owe less to four sheltering walls than to a temporary

shedding, not just of our inhibitions but also of all the weighty

paraphernalia that clutters up a sedentary life.

Tents pitched in far-flung locales have always had roman-

tic cachet—who could forget Meryl Streep and Robert

Redford in Out of Africa. And now there’s a trend of textile

pleasure domes being adapted for use in diverse settings

across the globe. “They provide an experience that you could

miss in an ordinary concrete box,” says designer Bill Bensley

of the tents at the Four Seasons Tented Camp, in Thailand’s

Golden Triangle. “Guests can hear the sound of elephants

munching their way through the jungle. It’s escapism to the

nth degree.” That sentiment is evident in Bensley’s design for

the resort. He drew inspiration from northern Thailand’s

hill-tribe villages as well as camps he visited in Botswana,

and he filled the 15 tents with metal craftwork from local ar-

tisans, along with explorer-themed antiques (an old compass,

rifles, primitive fishing tools).

Like Temperley, Nairobi-based fashion designer Anna

Trzebinski is also dabbling in the world of hotels, opening

the tented Lemarti’s Camp near Kenya’s Laikipia Plateau

last year. She stitches tents of locally loomed cotton in the

same workshop where she creates beaded tunics and accesso-

ries inspired by indigenous Kenyan designs. Set on platforms

above a river bend, the camp’s tents are furnished with tables

and beds built with wood from dhow boats, and decorated

with African-themed found objets d’art: crocodile skulls, ele-

phant shoulder blades, beaded walking sticks and clubs. “For

me, a tent should be the veil between you and Mother

Africa, a sheer shield to protect but not in any way discon-

nect you from her presence. To be under canvas on a

comfortable bed, with the smell of acacia blossoms —in the

old safari days this was intoxicating enough, but now we

have the ability to improve on the concept.” »

t+l journal | trendspotting

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T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E . C O M

And that’s exactly what Banyan Tree is doing with one of

its latest resorts, the Banyan Tree Maldives Madivaru, on a

coral atoll in the Maldives. Created by Dharmali Kusumadi,

one of the group’s head designers, it’s by far the most cosseting

tented property available today. Only 18 guests at a time can

stay on the private island. Rooms come in the form of three

conjoined tents facing a cobalt-blue lagoon: a king-size plat-

form bed dominates the air-conditioned sleeping tent, while

the bathing pavilion has a claw-foot tub. A butler and massage

therapist are at guests’ beck and call.

Spas, too, are employing tents to help travelers abandon

worldly cares. In Arizona’s Sonoran Desert, Miraval Tucson

Resort & Spa guests take treatments in one of six new tents

styled by Irish-born designer Clodagh. “For me, a tent evokes

impermanence,” she says. “It reflects the impermanence of

the spa treatment as well.” Set in a botanical garden shaded

by paloverde trees, each of the tents has natural cleft-stone

flooring, an acacia-wood bench, and walls made of saguaro

and ocotillo cacti. Tipping the indulgence scale, Taj Hotels’

Rambagh Palace, in Jaipur, has put up two new spa suite

tents patterned after a 16th-century Mughal encampment.

When India’s royalty went camping, their tasseled tents were

made of velvet and embroidered silk. Devised by husband-

and-wife hotel design team Amit and Shalini Gehlot, the

billowing pavilions contain handwoven carpets, royal pen-

nants, and love swings made from salvaged shesham wood.

And if that’s not adequate escapism, this month Taj opens

Banjaar Tola, a safari lodge with 18 tented suites in the bam-

boo forests of Madhya Pradesh, a four-hour drive from

Jabalpur. Created by one of India’s top architects, Sanjay

Prakash, each tent has bamboo floors, solar-powered heated

pools, and traditional artwork from nearby Chattisgarh.

Definitely fit for a mogul on the move.

Shane Mitchell is a special correspondent for Travel + Leisure.

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��+"��.)�"+, Koija, Laikipia,

Kenya; 888/995-0909;

lemartiscamp.com or uncharted

outposts.com; doubles from $1,500, all-

inclusive.

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The available intelligent high-beamheadlamps‡ on the all-new 2010 RXhave been designed to automaticallydim when an oncoming vehicle isapproaching to help ensure thatyou don’t blind any of your fellowneighbors in Los Angeles.

To see the other ways you helped shape the 2010 RX, visit lexus.com/ALL NEW RX.

*Vehicle shown and described with optional equipment. †The Navigation System is designed to assist in locating an address or point of interest. Discrepancies may be encountered between services and your actual location. Road system and weather changes may affect information accuracy. See Navigation System Owner’s Manual for further details. ©2009 Lexus. ‡The intelligent high-beam headlamps can help improve vision at night. However, conditions such as a dirty windshield, rapidly changing light conditions or hilly terrain will limit effectiveness so the driver may need to manually change the high beams from on to off. Please see Owner’s Manual for details. ©2009 Lexus.

THE ALL-NEW 2010 RX.NOW WITH MOREROGER YU.

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