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Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales Journey of a voyage from London to Sydney in the Barque Fortune 5 April 1838 – 31 August 1838 / Joseph Fowles B 1310 [Photocopy of The Late Mr Joseph Fowles] [Pages 1-2 blank] [Page 3] We learn with regret that Mr Joseph Fowles, the late City Surveyor, died yesterday morning, having sunk under the effects of a protracted illness. Mr Fowles had numerous and sincere friends in this city, of which he has been a resident for over ten years. Mr Fowles was suffering from the earlier stages of the malady which ultimately carried him off when the decision to remove him from his position as city Surveyor was arrived at, and there is no doubt that the anxiety and mental suffering this occasioned him had a most injurious effect. The necessity of making some effort to provide for those dependent on his exertions caused him to leave his sick-chamber imprudently soon after the alleviation of his more acute symptoms, and his constitution proved incapable of sustaining the strain. Mr Fowles was secretary of the Queensland Turf Club, and took a lively interest in sporting matters, although we believe, he never speculated. His funeral will take place today, at half past 2 o'clock, and will be conducted under the direction of the Masonic body, of which he was a member. The chaplain of the order comes from Ipswich on purpose to officiate on the occasion. The funeral of Mr Joseph Fowles, late City Surveyor, which took place yesterday afternoon, was attended by a large concourse of the personal friends and acquaintances of the deceased gentleman. Mr Fowles was a Past Master of the North Australian Masonic Lodge, and the members of the order assembled in great force to pay a tribute of respect to their departed brother. The body was removed during the day from the late residence of the deceased to the Masonic Hall, from whence, after the performance of the ceremonies usual on these occasions, the funeral moved about half past 8 o'clock in the afternoon. The procession was headed by about 100 brethren of the order, in Masonic clothing, the hearse following, and the rear being brought up by a large number of the general public, on foot and in vehicle. Amongst those present were several aldermen, ex-aldermen, Corporation officers, and workmen who for many years were under the supervision of the deceased. The procession moved from the hall up Ann-street to George-Street, and out to the old church of England Cemetery. The interment took place with Masonic ceremonies, the Chaplain of the order, the Rev. Mr Williams, DGC, EC, assisted by the Revs. T Jones and Creyke, officiating. [Pages 4-6 blank or illegible] [Page 7] Journal of a voyage from London to Sydney in the Barque Fortune of London commenced 5 April 1838 [Page 8 blank] [Page 9] The sun shone beautifully on the morning of April 5th as in the Duke of Surprise steamer, we voyaged down the river from London Bridge to Gravesend to join the ship which had gone before and was lying at Gravesend, awaiting the arrival of the Captain - On board the steamer rising early enough, we met a wedding party going to Gravesend to spend the day – it consisted of the whole family of the Pratts, my cousins and John Adey with his wife – I need not add that it afforded us much unexpected pleasure, especially under present circumstances. We arrived at the pier end after taking leave of them and exchanging good wishes, we took a boat and at about ½ past 2 o'clock we found ourselves on board the Barque Fortune. We found the Pilot in charge of the vessel and Mr Wright, the mate and Mr Ayres and steerage passengers all on board. Mr Windsour arrived at about 4 o'clock and the

Journey of a voyage from London to Sydney in the Barque Fortune 5 April 1838 – 31 August 1838 / Joseph Fowles

B 1310 Mitchell Library, State Library of NSW

Captn with his wife and sons at 6 o'clock. The Ladies are hoisted on deck by chair supported by a rope passed through a pulley in the main yard over [which] the chair is spread the union jack and when the lady is seated it is wrapped around her and she is then hoisted up without any trouble or danger. [Page 10] All the afternoon I was packing away my goods and making our cabin comfortable which I tolerably effected before we weighed anchor. We took tea very comfortably in the cabin tho’ rather late about 8 o’cl, the party consisting of the Capt his wife & son, myself and wife – Mr Wood and Miss Collier, Mr Wright, Mr Hiridson, the mate & pilot – after tea we went to bed but did not find it very comfortable, it being a very cold night and the exchange from a comfortable bedroom for one only 6 ft square (about the size of my bed at home) and being annoyed by the continued trampling of the men upon deck over head – getting the ship under weigh – Mr Wright, the Capt & pilot, remained up talking till 1 o’clock when the anchor was dropped in the upper end of the lower Hope. The sails all furled and everything now was comparatively quiet. I slept pretty well after this” Being again awoke by the same noise of the men trampling over our heads about 4am – I arose and found the vessel proceeding down the river at a good & steady pace – we passed the nose light of which we had a good sight – also the towns of Shearness – Southend and Margate, a sketch of which last, with the North Foreland Light House and the Bonjour Fortune – I here attempt’d [Page 11] When we had cleared the Queens Channel the ships’ course was altered and thereby the wind become less favourable – and when we cleared the N Foreland the wind was right a head of us so we had to tack frequently – Mr Wood as indeed all of us were much amused by the noise in tacking. The Pilot shouts out “standby there to tack ship”. This puts all the men to their posts, he then commands the man at the wheel to “put the helm hard down” – and this brings the head of the ship round till all the sails shake the wind being out of them, he then bellows out enough to frighten you – Helm’s a lee there” – this is a second preparation he then shouts “Tacks & Sheets” then in an instant “Mainsail haul”. The first [indecipherable] to let go the tack, and haul upon the sheet – this brings the mainsail round so that the wind comes behind it – he the when her head is round enough sings out “let go and haul”, this brings the sails into the same position they were before except that the wind comes on the other side of the ship. Then we continued tacking till we arrived in the Downs and came to anchor about 1 mile from Deal at 6 o’clock, the wind increasing very much and being exactly the most contrary it could be. The first thing that attracted our notice was the constant [Page 12] and unpleasant of the swinging trays over the table – like small dumb waiters suspended instead of standing on its foot. This of course yields to the least notion of the ship & is always upright. The lamps also two very handsome table lamps without a pedestal and suspended with trays are constantly swinging about making us feel very giddy and uncomfortable. Miss Rollin became sick soon after breakfast and continued so all day. Mrs T has hitherto escaped but I feel a giddy swimming in my head but no sickness. Saturday 7th April – Last night the Pilot left the ship and this morning the wind had increased and was still the same direction so here we must stay for a change. The Stewart forgot to bring any bread with him and as the room was not yet in order we had nothing but his biscuit to eat which to me, having no teeth is quite a task. Mrs Fowles today is rather poorly but not sick altho’ the motion has been very great. Mrs Lister by way of consolation says the water is quite smooth and we shall have something more like motion before we get to the end of our journey – she is constantly gratuitously encouraging or either discouraging the timid with tales of horror. She has been round the world three times and has retained nothing but the most horrible and unpleasant occurrences. [Page 13] Sunday 8th April – The night again passed with a good deal of tossing and tumbling. I slept indeed very little but we are all up to breakfast which is speaks for itself, that all are well – many have been sick. Miss Cox remained in bed all day yesterday. As we lay here the light on the Goodwyn sands called the Gull Light – the North Foreland, the Towns of Ramsgate & Deal were with the light at the South Foreland visible at night. We spend much of our time on



deck walking about – this may be the cause of our continuing so well. Monday 9th - The wind having changed a little this morning we were enabled to make a start. All of the anchor was weighted and we were proceeding on our voyage – it is not unusual for vessels to be detained in the Downs for a week or fortnight, so we may congratulate ourselves in getting away so soon. On Saturday I numbered 77 vessels at anchor in the Downs and at night several others brought up. This morning all getting under weigh at the same time had a very interesting appearance, quite a fleet was seen beating in all directions. I took the wheel myself and steered till in sight of Dover – it was now a lovely morning, the coast near Calais was very clearly seen and [Page 14] the white chalk cliffs of England relieved by the green fields crowning them and the sea foam dashing at their base together with the brilliant emerald green sea formed at once a new and splendid scene, to all of us as quite a novelty. At about 12 we were opposite Dover – the Castle, the Town & Shakespeare’s Cliff were very distinctly seen from the little distance at which we were off to Dungeness light house was right ahead and the wind had fallen off to almost a calm – at 11 Beachey head light house was seen – it is a most beautiful light revolving every 3 seconds. Tuesday 10th The wind continues as yesterday. The Isle of Wight seen at noon & about an hour afterwards the wind shifted round to the S.W., so we were again obliged to head instead of running before the wind. There is a sail on our larboard bow and when we came up with her, as we did her name appeared to be the James Bilet which afforded Mr Wood much amusement – the singularity of the name. Wednesday 11th A very cold day. Mr Wood had unfortunately left his cloak & great coat in London – the thermometer at 44. The Capt who has I think taken a great fancy to Mr Wood lent him a pilot coat and thus decked he with the rest of us keep up our [Page 15] spirits by singing etc. etc Mr Wood is quite the soul of little company – we shall miss him much when he leaves us - & we all wish he was going the whole voyage with us. The wind had now fallen off to a calm – the sea was quite smooth. The Isle of Wight still in the distance. We went to bed and in the night the wind blew quite a stiff breeze and the ship lay over so much that it was with extreme difficulty I could keep in bed. Thursday 12th I arose but Mrs Fowles could not, being for the first time sea sick. Miss Collier & Mrs Lister were also very ill. I arose at 3 in the morning and whether it was from the stuffing of the goose at yesterday’s dinner or the motion of the ship, I was sick for a few minutes – the sea was very rough I could scarcely stand even with holding on at a rope. In the afternoon it had a little calmed tho’ now there was much sea & I got Mrs Fowles & Miss C upon deck where they soon improved them. I find it the best thing. After they have recovered sufficiently strength to bear it. We are now off the Start Point not far from Dartmouth – we hoped to get into Plymouth tonight but the wind became more unfair we could not – but were beating about all the evening and making very little progress. The James Bilet was seen some distance astern. [Page 16] Friday 13 When I arose I found a Pilot on deck inconspicuous, he had boarded us about 4 o’clock, as most of these pilots have not sufficient employment as pilots to support them- they fill up their waste time by taking fish – our pilot brought on board some fresh caught whiting, soles & an immense lobster weighing about 6 or 7 lbs, the best I ever tasted. The Eddystone Light house was seen now about 4 miles off and now the wind had fallen off it had also shifted round fair – and about 12 o’clock we could see the hill and fields very distinct and then we had only been a few days from land, still we felt great pleasure in again seeing the beautiful green fields and indeed the land has a strikingly beautiful appearance in the neighbourhood of Plymouth, especially Mount Edgecombe. At about 2 o’clock we came to anchor within the breakwater and prepared to go ashore which was with Mr Wood, Wright, Mrs F & Miss Collier soon effected in the agents’ boat. Mr Wright then went in quest of his mother and sister who with her husband and family were to embark with us from Plymouth and had come hither from Bath for that purpose. We then went to the Post office for letters for many of us there were some.



[Page 17] From the Sound was seen on a green field and the Citadel numbers of persons – thronging up together – others engaged playing and running about upon the hill. This place is called the Hoe & it is the rendezvous of all the citizens upon festive occasions like the present, “Good Friday” and from its beautiful verdure contrasted with the black walls of the Citadel (an immense place) formed a very pleasant scene. To the left was the seat & park of Lord Mt Edgecombe a splendid place in the centre between this & the hoe is a small island called Drakes island – it looks like a rock with its top covered with smooth turf, extending down the sides a little and on the very top a zoom of cannons – beyond this is seen in the distance part of the towers of Stow house and Devonport – and on the right the Catwater where most vessels having to discharge anchor as it is much nearer the town than we were (abt 1 ½ mile). The town of Plymouth lies hidden from the sound behind the Citadel & Hoe. It is for the most part a dirty miserable looking place the streets most of them not wider than one cart and the foot pavement may well be called so for they seldom exceed that in width. The upper part is however better but not any of it has the appearance of either wealth or business and the basin for vessels seemed quite [Page 18] empty & deserted – to be sure it was full of mud. He strolled thro’ the town and at length found ourselves upon the Hoe & from which one vessel with her colours at the mast head looked very pretty – the breakwater was also seen beyond as forming a wall across the entrance to the bay and built to prevent the ingress of the heavy sea which generally sets in with a S or SW wind doing considerable damage to shiping, driving them upon the rocks &c, there not being sea room to beat out. It has been ??? years about & is not yet complete – it is composed of immense stones thrown into the sea and rising about 20 feet above the surface, it has frequently been damaged by the violence of the sea carrying fast away. Upon the Hoe we met Mr Wright with Mr B, his brother-in-law who informed me he had letters for me at his lodgings. I left the party to go for them and again met with them at the Clarence Hotel – where as sit was 6 o’clock we ordered tea and as we had had no dinner we ordered mutton chops also and it was remarked by all that they had never relished anything so much and there we have a spacious room well furnished and a cheerful fire – added to the enjoyment – there was an old upright piano forte dreadfully strung & out of tune. Mr Wood sat to it and delighted us very much, so extraordinary was the effect produc [Page 19] ed by being at sea for only a week. What the length of the voyage will produce I cannot imagine. As the night was dark & wet we left Mrs Fowler & Miss Collier to sleep at the Clarence and returned in a boat to the ship. Saturday 14 Went ashore and found the Ladies had had a good night and also breakfast – we took then a good long walk to Stonehouse & the bettermost parts of Plymouth & got on board at about 4 o’clock where we found Mrs & Bishton & 3 children, also Mrs Wright making our cabin party complete. Sunday 15th As it was likely to be the last sabbath for some time we might spend ashore, we all determined to do and Mr Bishton who had engaged a boat by the day ordered it to be alongside at 9 o’clock. The morning was fine but the wind was fresh and the water rough, so Mrs Wright (who was otherwise going with us) could not go. Mr Wright - Hindson Mr & Mrs Bishton and myself and wife went and we shiped a good deal of sea indeed had we not prepared for it we had all been drenched – as it was we were so long pulling to the shore that we did not get to the church till they were reading the communion service. After church we walked about till we again got into the boat and put of[f] to the ship. I took the helm – the water had now grown fearfully rough for a boat and had we had [Page 20] to have faced the wind instead of as it was to run before as we should have been swamped. It steered to the vessel and the ladder which was on the opposite side when we left had been changed and put down on this side on our return. We were not aware of this and therefore star[t]d to run round close inside the stern and buff up on the lee side – it was not untill we were almost a stern that we were supprised of the alteration and now I put the helm hard down and the boats head came up – to face the sea and wind – just at this time a sea threw our boat right over across the jolly boat lying astern of the ship and I expected we must be



capsised but a rope from the deck was low and by which the boat was got clear and pulled to the gangway – we were now in imminent danger, the waves tossing us up against the ships side and we were expecting every minute to be upset and thrown into the sea, fortunately the ladies sat still. Mr Bishton first ascended – Mr Hindson was some time before he could muster courage to mount one moment when the boat rose he would attempt to go on but it again retreating, he did the same, expecting the same at least a dozen times before he trusted to the ladder and left the boat – all this time we were kept in great suspense and anxiety and difficulty and could I still the ladies at length the whip was [Page 21] lowered and Mrs B made secure was instantly suspended over our heads and safely landed on the deck. The chair was again lowered and Sarah with much more fortitude than could be expected took her seat and in like manner was whipped up Mr Bishton followed and lastly myself – truly thankful for our safe arrival having encountered as great danger as is likely in our whole voyage to Sydney. The wind continued to increase till it blew a perfect gale – and we were obliged to drop another anchor several ships in the [indecipherable] having drifted from their moorings and were nearly blown ashore. Monday and Tuesday the wind continued so violent that no boats could venture from the shore so we were doing nothing towards getting away – Mr Wood left by the steamer for London – I must not say we all regretted his loss. Wednesday the weather becoming a little more fine we began to ship our provisions but also Mrs Alger and her two sons came on board so did Mr Pearse his wife 4 children and 2 servants a man and woman. Thursday 19 April – Nothing now remains to be done but clearing at the Customs House which he completed at about 3 and found that a parcel which had been sent him had been forwarded to a friend near Plymouth – so after dinner the [Page 22] whale boat was manned and lowered and the Capt. and myself went ashore for it we took tea at his friends and had some of the local Devonshire clotted cream. – After tea we returned to the beach under Jenny Cliff where we found the Sailors we had sent into the village for salt had not returned and we were obliged to wait on the beach for their return which was nearly ½ an hour after – during my stay here the rising tide beating over the pebbles and the sound of the soldiers drum on the shore beating to bed seemed to awaken every feeling and now I was just about to leave my much loved country for at least years, perhaps for ever. The weather had been very cold for several days past and continued falls of snow so that the hills were quite white when we left. When we got on board we found the Pilot had got our anchor in , and the other apeak, with the fore topsail set and all ready to make sail the Captns. Orders were soon under given and in a few minutes we easily moved off – imperceptible except for the nearing the lights on the Breakwater which we soon passed at about 11 o’clock. At about 12 the Pilot’s boat came up to take him and the Capt’n having finished his letters and settled with him he left. [Page 23] And now the Capt’n took command . The [indecipherable] being fair and the weather fine all sail was set and at about 1 we passed the Eddystone. Friday 20th April – I arose after a good night’s sleep about 7 in the morning and saw the Lizard Point which we were distant from about 8 miles having made at least 80 miles since we left the Sound. This was the last sight I had of England and it soon faded from my sight. The wind continuing fair we that had been to sea before were boasting and telling the others how they might expect to feel as the sea increased ; (of course excepting ourselves). In the evening the wind changed and we were for a few hours going N.W. but it again shifted and in the morning of – Saturday 21st Lat Long I found the ship under double reefed top sails lying over very much and tossing fearfully – I remained on deck summoned below to attend to Mrs Fowles who with Miss C was extremely sick and ill as were nearly all the passengers. I did not again go on deck but Mr Wright who was not all [indecipherable] out said the [indecipherable] of the sea was studded with stars of



the highest order and the sea was fearfully rough. [Page 24] Sunday 22nd April Lat Long The fact of no one but the Capt’n and Mr Wright being at breakfast speaks pretty plainly to the state of those who did not attend. All were ill though not all sick. – I had a very unpleasant sensation in my head like that produced by wearing a new hat very hard on and tight I felt no relish or desire for food – lying down was the best thing any could do and tho’ brandy and water is generally recommended I and Mrs F found port wine and water agreed better than anything else and to keep continually nibbling her biscuit. This was anything but a day of rest for the sailors who were engaged all the day and night – tho’ it rained incessantly all the time – they were much exhausted. This was by way of giving us an idea of the Bay of Biscay which the Capt’n said he never crossed without experiencing rough weather but should the wind continue fair we may be safely out of it tomorrow. Monday 23rd This morning I woke and was indeed glad to find the wind had abated and the sea becoming more smooth tho’ cross it was swimming in long and heavy swells like furrows in a field rolling one after another. The ship was now comparatively easy and well it was for I never felt so tired in my life. I would have given anything as Mr Wick said when going to Margate [Page 25] to have stopped the ship but no - on we must go and tired or not still the rollers must be borne however tiresome it be – I suppose we shall get used to it in time. It being fair and the sun shining I got Mrs Fowles and Miss Collier on deck and by degrees got them to take a little nourishment – Mrs F favored a little black currant jam on bread and port wine negus then I gave saline draughts made simply of Soda and Tart Acid, oranges also they very much liked and all of these seemed to refresh and strengthen them. Two ships were today seen one bearing toward Lisbon or Oporto we hoisted the Ensign which was answered by French colours the other was an English brig going in the direction of Gibraltar – but had not a [indecipherable] of signals this we know by their hoisting of the Ensign in answer to the question What ship is that? Tuesday 24 Lat Long The sea getting more smooth and the wind fair for us we are making rapid progress on our voyage – saw two more sail today but neither with signals one was a Frenchman the other did not answer our signal perhaps could not make it out - It is very pleasant to meet with a ship on the trackless ocean where all looks so immense to man, a vast and dreary expanse of water undivided and on all [Page 26] sides unbounded save by the sky which in the gale seems indeed to be mixed up with it. Wednesday 25 Lat Long We yesterday passed Oporto and are today off Lisbon at some distance tho’ All the sick are recovered except a little girl belonging to one of the steerage passengers. Thursday April 26 Lat 39° 51’ Long 13° 30’ The weather very fine the sun makes all feel warm and comfortable after the dreary and cold days we have had – the thermometer in the shade today 60º - when we left Plymouth it was 44º only - we shall feel considerable difference daily as we are going fast to the southward. Thursday 26 Friday All up earlier today for we have hitherto been very lazy lying in bed till nearly 10 o’clock. – I found the deck wet with a nice shower that had just fallen it seemed to give that freshness so delightful in England but it wanted the perfume of its flowers . The sun shines bright the breeze is light and we have now as yesterday the royals and royal studding sails skysails and everything set and gliding smoothly thro’ the water at about 7 knots to an hour the sea today quite blue a deep blue like the water that runs from the dyehouses near Stroud but perfectly clear and transparent the porpoises are jumping and playing round the ship in the most [indecipherable] manner chasing each other – they can be seen at a [Page 27] great depth under the surface of the sea. At about 20ft they frequently pass under the ship



from one side to the other. At breakfast by ½ past 10 today all were in their places and on the table was as usual the cold meat of the day before . This morning cold roast beef, dressings and eggs. New bread every day really excellent as well as ever I had at a farm house and as white as the best town bread – our butter which has hitherto been fresh must now give place to salt – there is very little used of any kind – we have coffee and tea green and black made separately to suit all tastes – you will also remember that our cow – an Alderney gives beautiful rich milk which is a luxury much to be prized as not often to be met with on board ship. After breakfast I amuse myself reading and playing the flute or anything that may offer itself - the ladies with their work get on deck where with a little work and a great deal of talking the time is fast beguiled and at about 1 o’clock lunch is on the table – cold ham pineapple cheese and bread and biscuits bottled ale and porter wine and water all and so on as fine as can be bought at home. This performance takes some time and then we again go up on deck till dinner which I am sorry to say is seldom ready and on the table for us before 6 o’clock and sometimes even later. [Page 28] Our dinner today consists of a dish called panbouch – a sort of hash very excellent our old cook – a black man – and the steward who has been at the first confectioners in London – continue to make up these fancy dishes beautifully. Roast beef was the next with potatoes and broccoli - Gooseberry and Raspberry pies finish our repast the dessert is usually plain indeed little namely can be presented where all the fruits must be preserved ones – that of today consisted of Walnuts Prunes and preserved dates – Wine is left on the table as long as some choose to take any fortunately for the Capt’n we are all very temperate . Bottled porter, ale and cider is our dinner beverage and from the warmth of the weather it is all well up and good. Tea is served at 8 or from that to 9 according as we dine late or early which latter cannot be said to have taken place yet. All the party are on deck this evening some walking others sitting on the hen coops talking singing &c. Saturday 28th Lat – S Long – W The breeze which has hitherto continued steady and enabled us to hold on in the proper course has today lulled off to almost nothing and the weather is much hotter than it has been and I am in great fear as to what we have to expect it is now in my cabin as hot as can be borne without suffocation. [Page 29] Some of the passengers are as taking the little Portuguese men of war as they are called they look like a lump of blue jelly in the shape of a fish’s bladder with a cock’s comb along the top – There are other things of the same nature but different shapes and colours. Sunday 29th The wind had fallen off in the night and this morning it was shifted from NW to SW so were obliged to alter our course and thus we have made very little South. This was the first opportunity we have had of performing divine service the first Sunday it being rough in the Downs the next spent at Plymouth - and last Sunday in the Bay of Biscay. Mr Bishton a clergyman who is going out to settle in van Dieman’s Land assisted by Mr Wright as clerk read the service the desk being a cask covered with the ensign – all the seamen “neat, trimly dressed” as if ashore going each to see his “Poll or Bab” were ranged on the hen coops along the lee side the passengers on the other all made about 40 – It was pleasant to see so many assembled for so important exercise but I fear few felt it properly and Mr B in his sermon failed to excite that lively interest which is essential to the awakening of minds obscured by the darkness of sin it was his first attempt and these poor excuses should be made accordingly but I also do not consider him a spirituallized and regenerate being – [Page 30] After service we retired to lunch (into the cabin) and afterward spent the afternoon reading the sermons of our dear Mr Jay how I wish I could this evening fill that place which I have for some time in his chapel – this is a blessing we shall miss very much. Monday 30th The wind still foul as the sailors call it that is contrary it blows from the point we wish to go to



we are compelled to make way to the North and are of course thereby getting near to England – We have also a heavy head sea which has disturbed the stomachs of many of the passengers and made them very sick and ill my head feels very stupid. Tuesday 1st May Lat 33º 30’ Long 15º 20’ Today we ran to the Lat 34 35 long 15º and then put about the wind being a little more fair enabling us to run SE. Wednesday 2nd Lat 32 – 20 long 14 – 40 We have since yesterday run a good deal to the eastward passed Madiera at about 8 miles distance so we could not see it as expected – The wind again becoming unfair we were put about and her head to the N.W. with a very unpleasant swell – Dinner today – fresh salmon as good as ever was eaten at Chepstow. It is secured in tin cases the air pumped out and soldered up air tight. Each case contains 2lb without bones. [Page 31] Roast & Boiled mutton & apple fritters Thursday lat long The wind continues variable and squally the Capt’n says this indicates a change of wind and true it was for in the afternoon a severe squall came on laying the ship’s side over nearly under water – instantly all was bustle and confusion “Lower away the top gallant halyards and haul out the clue lines haul away then you lubbers” shouted the Capt’n and in an instant the yards were lowered and the corners of the sails up to the centre of the yard the yards secured and in as little time as I have taken in writing this the top gallant sails were furled and snug as they call it – Again as the squall seemed likely to last was heard the Capt’n who (tho’ with an excellent voice could not be heard for the whistling of the wind in the rigging and the roar of the sea) had then seized the speaking trumpet and shouted “put the helm hard up there let go the main topsail halyard” – this done –“hand in the jib there” and the jib was in “man the top gallant main topsail yards and take in two snug reefs” and then the men in a crowd rushed up the rigging and the yard was covered with men who in a few minutes had securely reefed the topsail tho’ the rain poured down all the time in torrents – [Page 32] by this time all the men were once again upon deck; the wind abated and also had shifted round so that after the squall which had frightened us all below had passed the wind was fair and her head again towards the Southward. Friday 4th lat 30º 50” Long 4º 0” The wind fair this morning heavy, right behind us our top mast top gallant and royal studding sails all set as well as the skysail and we smoothly glided thro’ the water. The awning was spread over the quarterdeck the passengers are all trying to catch “Boneta” a fish about the size of a salmon A delightful evening all in excellent spirits. Mrs F Miss C and all are on deck their sufferings past forgotten and nothing now was wanted to make me happy – Mr Mgu playing on the violin myself the flute and others singing &c – The moon shines bright and tho’ the breeze is scarcely perceptible yet we are by no means too warm. Saturday May 6th Lat 29 long Arose at 7 found upon going on deck a sail in sight at about 10 miles ahead on the larboard beam. At about 8 we perceived land on the same beam very indistinct almost like a cloud indeed had I not been told it was land I do not think I should have noticed it but as the day advanced the clouds cleared away and en became more dis- [Page 33] [Two sketches] [Page 34 blank] [Page 35] tinct and at 9am I took the first sketch of the land which proved to be Palma the most westerly of the Canary Islands. The Capt’n thought he could discern the Peak of Teneriffe but if he did it must have been at least 90 miles off as we are now about 40 from Palma. When the first sketch was taken the lower part of the Island was very indistinct but the outline of that part



above the clouds was more distinct and near the summit I can perceive streams of water running down this I found afterwards looked more like snow left in patches after a thaw. In the afternoon the sail seen in the morning had got nearly out of sight and we had come abreast of the Island from where I took the second sketch – it now appeared very barren in the lower part and as if washed by great torrents of rain as it seemed all in chasms the very summit was generally covered with clouds but when it did clear away I could see trees upon it which must have been immense as we were not less than 25 miles from it. Mrs Wright was this evening remarking how soon we grow accustomed to the circumstances in which we are placed and although she is at least 60 and must find difficulties where younger persons would not she says she feels not the slightest apprehension of danger even when a fresh breeze is blowing and it scarcely occurs to us that we are in a ship everything being so comfortable we know no want of any necessary sausage. [Page 36] of our luxury I may say for our table is at all times well supplied. This evening all on deck as usual taking our walk for in the day the sun has sufficient power to prevent us taking mush exercise during the day Sunday May 6th Lat 27 37 long 18.40 The morning quite clear and the wind still fair. We again had service upon deck – Old cook taken ill unable to attend to his duty. Bled him and prescribed for him. Monday May 7th Lat 25 50 long 19.50 This morning gave the cook medicine and by 2pm he was able to attend to his duty. One of the seamen cut his hand severely. [indecipherable] [indecipherable] scarcely a breath of air to be felt the ship of course making little or no progress thro’ the water the sails hung loosely flapping against the masts with the roll of the ship and there is such a spirit of laziness or rather no spirit in every body and thing. The sea beautifully bright in the clear moonlight the waves casting a deep shade in places which throws up the silvery light sparks and gives an increased brightness to it. Tuesday May 8th lat 24º 47’ long 20º 18’ The wind continues fair but very light the vessel scarcely going 1 knot and the thermometer 78ºin the shade and yet it does not affect us so much as might be expected. However so suddenly changed our climate there is always a fresh breeze off the sea. [Page 37] Wednesday 9th lat 22º 44’ long 20º40’ Today more fresh than yesterday and if it continues for 3 days as it now is we shall be at anchor in St Jago’s where we are to take in water &c. Thursday 10th lat 20 – 22 long 21 24 In the night two small fish called “Squidd” or Ink fish from having a small bag containing a black fluid and possessing the power of ejecting into the water when pursued thereby rendering the water for some distance round quite thick and black they also leap out of the water to a great height (as they must have done to jump on board) when closely pursued a head is detatched from the under part of the body which is a kind of cartilage and is fixed like that of the tortoise loose. I shall here give a sketch of one about the size of the smaller of the two taken – There is another kind of squid forming the principal food of the sperm whale and growing to an immense size nearly as large as the whale itself. [Sketch of squid] [Page 38] the flying fish are very numerous springing out of the water in shoals and flying like swallows over the surface of the sea. The sea tonight was very phosphorescent it looks like glass worms passing the ship’s side in numbers sometimes they are much larger – The sun today was over our heads nearly in a perpendicular line and standing erect your shadow is covered – the altitude at noon today being 87º The awning is opened over the deck every morning the decks being washed they remain cool all day indeed I have not yet felt the heat at all oppressive. Friday May 11th lat 18 16 long 23 37



This has been a delightful day the breeze fresh and we are cracking on so that by night we may expect to see the Island of Pal the northernmost of the Cape de Verds – At 5 pm a sail was seen at about 10 miles on the starboard side steering towards us [Page 39] at 6 I hoisted the ensign but was not answered as they were bearing down to speak to us at ½ past 6 she was a head of us lying to. You can scarcely imagine the interest exacted by the prospect of speaking a ship from England – various were the opinions about her. Miss Lister who paints every thing in the worst colors and is determined not to enjoy anything said – it was not unlikely it might be a pirate as these Islands are much in [indecipherable] by them and afterwards when speaking and found her English she thought we should run foul of her. The Capt now took his trumpet and got into the whale boat at the ship’s side and gave his commands as all commands are given in a gruff hoarse voice. Let go the Sky sail Halyards’ aye aye sir – and the yard was lowered down to the Royal yard. Stand by and take a pull at the Starboard Main Brace, ease off the weather brace there, and the yard which was before squared was now braced up close. Helm Starboard shouted the Captn loud enough to make you jump Starboard ! said the man at the wheel. Now haul away at the lower stud’g sail triping line and the corner of a lower sail hanging over the side of the ship was instantly hauled up close to the yard and enabling the Captn to see the vessel which we were now nearing it having crossed our head, was on the larboard bow. Let go the Royal Stunsail halyards and land [Page 40] the down haul. Steady helm! Steady tis said the man. Starboard! again Hard Starboard! & before the words were well out of his mouth he again shouts mind your port helm! – aye, aye sir - luff you may says the Captn – luff tis says the man – these command all being executed we were now alongside of the stranger and as it was now very dark we could at first only discern the lights on board of her. The Passengers were now all upon deck ranged on the hen coops or anything to enable them to see over the bulwarks – I stood in the boat with the Captn and as we came alongside the Captn shouted. Ship a hoy! lengthening out the last word to almost ½ a mile as Jonathan says this was answered by the other Capt A Hoy there! Captn Lister then shouted what ship is that? – which was answered twice in so unintelligible a manner that we were all conjecturing what it was – many agreed it was John Thomson which made us all laugh as at dinner we were reciting Matthew’s description of speaking a ship which he related as follows. What ship’s that? The John Thomson! where bound? Boston What is your Captain’s name? Thompson! Your Owners? Thompson & Co – have you any passengers? Yes, one lady – what is her name? Thomson. This answer therefore from the ship now passing of course, led us to expect we had met with the very John Thompson – we all laughed and the Capt was some minutes before he could again [Page 41] The Captn of the other ship now asked our name & was answered and also where bound? Sydney. Captn Lister then said where are you from? Liverpool – but last from Madiera! how long out? 8 days from Madiera – where are you bound? Island of Mayo! What is your Longitude? [indecipherable] west – I made mine 22.54 said Capt Lister. Did you sight Palma, asked the stranger? Yes on Saturday answered Lister and found my chronometer very correct. We passed it on Sunday – How long are you out? asked the stranger! 21 days from Plymouth. Have you any passengers aboard? Yes full. I shall touch at St Jago for water answered Lister. Do you go to the East or West of Sal and how do you want to steer? Sou, sou, west ¾ west. I shall run down Sal and when I make it I shall make up my mind according as the wind may be – it is very variable round the Islands – where you in Sydney last year? asked he. Yes said Lister – Then I was aboard you there I was then in the Columbia. I suppose you have heard she is since lost? Yes, said Lister who now recollected the man he was speaking to. What did you say your ships name was? again asked Lister as we were now much nearer not being more than 30 yards off. The John Copp – said he – You seem running very light said Capt Lister. Yes I am only in ballast trim – I think we shall have a fine night said Capt Lister – yes I think so too said he. I made my latitude 17.38 said Lister



– Mine is the [Page 42] same says he. I wish you Good night and a pleasant voyage said the stranger. The same to you said Captn Lister and then the ships being put into their proper courses we soon parted. Every one was satisfied with the interview & in the night the vessel had a beautiful appearance with all her sails set. She was a barque of 235 Tons which I omitted in the conversation. We now return to tea in the cabin after which the moon having risen all went upon deck to walk and I remain below to log this. Saturday 12th By 2 am the Captn who was up all night old me he first sighted Sal and when I came on deck at 7 we were passed to the Southward of it. I took a sketch of it however – it looked like several hay cocks in the distance. The wind was now very fresh and we were going at 9 knots beautifully. At 10 o’clock I could see Bonavista – the coast outline was very rough and interesting but we were not near enough to give a better sketch than the annexed. At 12 from the mast head breakers on the Leton rock were seen at about 10 miles distant. At 3 the North Point of Mayo was visible as well as that of St Jago, the latter being very indistinct from its great distance. The north point of Mayo stretches out just above the water, 3 miles and looks like a tank of white sauce – many vessels have been wrecked here. [Page 43] [A separate sketch of each of: Sal or Salt Island bearing SE; Bonavista one of the Cape (continued below) (continued from above) de Verd Islands bearing East; Southern part of the above view bearing N by E]] [Page 44 blank] [Page 45] The head land being bluff and high was indeed the whole of the coast appears, as also most of the high are in the shape of a cone and appear destitute of vegetation. At the foot of Mayo were some what appeared to be a grove of trees upon the shore but proved to be coral rocks above the sea sand which was here quite white – we continued sailing on along the coast at about 5 miles off till 4 o clock hoping to make St Jago before dark as the moon did not rise till 11 o clock and here are many dangerous socks upon the coast. When we got to the southwards we could see off Mayo – the town at the extreme south of the Island at anchor, the ship we had spoken the night before I should think at 12 miles distant. The night came on more suddenly than we expected and we were not clear of the south east point of St Jago and the town of Praya is to the Southward of the Island and as it was more dark the Captn determined to lay to till the day light came that is neither to one way or another. [Sketch of Mayo bearing South] [Page 46] [Large sketch of an unnamed small township with mountain behind and sea in front] [Page 47] I rose at ½ past 5 and found the land on the starboard side we were close to the wind on the starboard tack – the land looked brown and dry not the slightest appearance of vegetation except now and then in small bays where the sea plants flourished. As we rounded the next point the Captn asked me the bearing of the battery – I looked but could not find it – so I asked him where it was when pointing to a flagstaff leaning over the side of the cliff and near at what had been a battery but now a heap of loose stones and 5 cannons dismounted. A little farther on and I could see a vessel lying at anchor with colours flying and as we proceeded the bay opened more and more fully displaying several vessels, all having their colours hoisted behind a rather [indecipherable] there was the town of Praya and over it was seen the summit of an immense mountain and from the distance is way off could not be less



than 10,000 feet above sea level of the sea, its very top was above the clouds – I shall give a sketch of the town bay and hills on the next page. On the rocks facing the Town was placed a kind o[f] demolished wall a row of cannons and just by way of showing their annoyance one of them was fired at as we entered the bay and had just dropped anchor without hoisting the Ensign. I was soon up and I could then see the Union Jack flying from a flagstaff in the Town – the second [Page 48] from the left hand in the sketch – it was at the house of the British Consul – upon seeing this we hoisted the number of the ship which gave him her name directly. Here for the first time I was close to hand in the tropics and it had a very striking appearance – the rugged outline of the hills, the extreme barrenness of the soil.- the beggarly appearance of the fortification (query) just passed as well as the lower ahead what looked all in a state of ruin. The few cocoanut trees growing in the vale to the left of the Custom house – all were novelties to me. In whatever may be the effect on other minds who seem to extol every thing foreign about English & England – it makes the remembrance of verdant fields and futile plains more dear and beautiful. Floating over our heads were numbers of birds such as Hawks or rather Eagles by their size and many other of different kinds & such as I never have seen before. I kept a look out for the shore, the Captn expecting the Consul would send off the boat to invite us at home as it the usual custom at 8 oclock a boat bearing the Portuguese colours put of to us and in a few minutes was alongside – it was manned by a lot of ragged looking wretches – convicts I believe as this is a Penal settlement for Portugal there was an officer on board whose clothes [Page 49] like the fortification before mentioned and was out in the service of the Country and which was in too poor a state to replace with new – this worthy did not speak English so he [indecipherable] with him an old black man as interpreter who was dressed in a suit of clothes large enough to contain two such men – being himself quite an apology for a man – a thing so spare so thin scarcely ever saw he took care to wear a clean shirt that day, with wristbands so wide as to cover his hands completely – his head was covered with a hot (silk) that had been black but now by being so often used to put off to ships in the bay, had become so red aside being never brushed it was what in England is to be called a “Shocking bad hat”. After inquiring if we were sick and what was the object of our visit he came on board and after satisfying himself he left a custom house officer on board and left us. At 12 o clock the whale boat was lowered and manned as they call it by the same crew we had in constant employ while at Plymouth and were now having very expert good rowers all were decrepit alike with white trousers & jackets and little straw hats bound with flack silk and they looked very well. The Captn Mr Wight and myself then took our places in the boat and we were soon under weigh – and there was so much surf on the beach we were [Page 50] obliged to go to the usual landing on the rocks which is never the less attended with considerable danger, especially to nervous hesitating persons – we arrived at the rock – the boat bows were in an instant above and in another instant sunk to 10 ft beneath the surf. This required decision and promptness to land in safety – the Captn therefore as the boat again rose to a level with the rock sprang upon it. The next was followed by myself and then Mr Wright – we were now on a small portion of the rock detatched from the shore and as the water rose was nearly covered scarcely leaving a square yard for us to kneel upon dry when the water subsided we leaped across the channel of abt 6 ft and came ashore over the rocks – a lady who would go ashore with a party from a ship about 2 years before in attempting to leap did it at the minute the wave was rising and was swept away and never seen again. Upon landing we found a family of the native blacks quite naked sitting on the sand also a man with a soldiers blue jacket and a ragged pair of trousers standing on guard with a club abt. 4ft long in his hand or rather resting upon it – his musket and cartridge pouch lying on a rock by him under the rock in a sort of cave washed by the sea was a woman asleep, perhaps the [indecipherable] of the [Page 51] Centinal. “We now cleared the rocks and arrived at a small beach of sand – here the rays of



the sun fell upon us and the land breezes came like that from a furnace scorching insufferably hot we could with difficulty breath – I never felt the air so oppressively bad – on our right hand was a plot of land enclosed by a new built wall here were many Cocoanut trees and others we thought it was a burial ground but found afterwards it was intended as a garden but not yet brought into cultivation. On this little beach were growing in a wild state as common as furze in England aloes some soft high. I broke the leaf of one and the juice was quite brown and tasted exactly like the Socetrine Aloes. We now climbed up the hill at the top of which stood the tower which had a very beggarly appearance – the windows having no glass but boarded shutters, scarcely any of the houses had more than 1 floor which is raised about a yard and the ground outside – there is seldom any [indecipherable] at the door so they have to step up a yard at a stretch. In the doors were sitting several of the women nearly naked, nursing infants quite so. After passing several streets regularly built of huts containing only I room in each thatched with leaves of the banana we arrived at the house of the British Consul almost exhausted by the excessive heat. [Page 52] We were now showed into a large parlour where towards the sun it was shaded with Venetian Blinds outside and all the doors & windows open – it of course felt delightfully cool; we remained here a short time and after the ships business had been gone thro we were ushered upstairs into a large dining room adjoining which with folding doors was the drawing room covered with a large Turkey carpet and well furnished quite in the English style. We took some refreshment, being attended by a little black boy and a girl about 16 slaves. We had out water served in a vessel peculiar to the Island made of course earthen ware of this shape. [Small sketch of a face with a scarf tied round its head] Mr Barker, the Consul a little man of about 35 has been in the Colony or Islands 14 years – he has married a native, the daughter of a rich man - there she is nearly as fair as our English woman and is indeed very good looking – she spoke French and Portuguese but not English – she did not wear any stays. He told us his reason for marrying her were that an English woman could not live there 12 months and besides with this woman he acquired all knowledge of parties which he could not do in any other way, indeed he said that thro’ her he derived information of conspiracies & plots which as a single individual he could never have found out. He seemed to have considerable attachment for her. [Page 53] We dined with him and had a pigs head, boiled and served in rice, indeed covered up so as not to be seen – a dish of greens and another part of pork and also a kind of currie. The greens are the leaves of the Cassava and eat very like spinach, the root was also boiled and to appearance very like parsnip but not so good to eat being stringy and hard – this is the plant from which Tapioca is made and it is extremely remarkable that the whole of the plant is a deadly poison but when dressed, its poisonous properties are completely destroyed, I suppose by the heat. We were informed that the cause of all the colours flying in the bay was the arrival of a new constitution from Portugal which was that day to be sworn to by all the authorities in the Island at the House of Assembly in great form – to see this therefore we were induced to stay ashore longer than otherwise we should have done. Opposite the house of the Consul was a hut as before described in it was a linen drapers shop where was also visible little brass ornaments in a conspicuous place as if to catch the eye of the admiring. Hacks – next door was another shop, a grog shop it appeared as the sailors had got seated there very soon after our arrival and were now singing away while one of the natives was playing on a guitar of very humble construction and [Page 54] very stringy things making a most miserable & discordant sound. We went into the former shop (for this was a general dealer) to purchase coffee, chocolate, turkeys, pigs, indian corn for ditto, pineapples, pumpkins, sugar and sugar cane. I need not have noticed this as a general dealer for I think any one after sending the above would have been satisfied of the fact without any assertion – adjoining the house of this general dealer on the other side was the Barracks a rude & rough unfinished looking building of rough stone and at the entrance were standing 2 centinal of the same character & description as the one we met with on the



beach – near them were standing several others and one of the centinals was apparently showing them how a musket went off and the manner in which he handled his piece told me clearly that he had never seen one discharged – he put the muzzle to the ground and the stock to his shoulder and with one hand pulled the cock back and with the other the trigger. I expected the gun w’d burst but the consul said they were never with ammunition or they would shoot each other so these centinals may be supposed very harmless creatures. In preparation for the grand affair of the day all the troops were to be collected & after a flourish on the bugles. The band consisting of 2 pipers 2 drummers & 1 drum major parades the tower making the most discord and sounds ever clear – when opposite the [Page 55] Barracks they were formed into a line what a line!!!! And then the drum major proceeded to examine their drapes as particularly as a file of the Guards in England wd be said it was truly ridiculous of these four only one had shoes. 2 had light 1 dark & 1 [indecipherable] coloured trowsers – 1 had a light jacket like a footman’s striped the others were 3 blue jackets but not at all like a Soldiers – the music of these worthys had its desirous effect of assembling the whole corps about 50 or 60 and the above description will hold good for the rest – they were drilled by a fierce-looking officer rather well dressed and he spared no stripes on the legs and backs of these unfortunate awkward youths – these were then in regular form marched to the front of the Governor’s house - We then went into the hall where all the Colonial business is transacted and here were assembled all the officers of the Government the Governor a fine Soldier looking man rather grey – the Judge a young handsome man in his robes – the Padre a Priest who sat at the upper end of the room with the Bible open before him – and after reading a portion of it they all answering with the Governor walked up to him, took him by the right hand, looked him in the face and pledged themselves to support the new constitution which had been read before we [Page 56] arrived. The sight was very interesting – all being dressed in their best and looked very fine one of the officers in full uniform with a very broad band of gold lace down his trowsers – a splendid sword and rich gold epaulette came up to the consul and spoke to him when I recognised his face as that of the “general dealer” into whose shop we had been in the morning the consul told us he was one of the richest men in the Island – having really excellent property – he was also the French Consul – and in his uniform he looked a very soldier like man. The floor of this hall which was board was covered with sand from the sea shore looking like powdered cinders so black and dirty. We were obliged to hurry away before the ceremony was ended as here the night sets in directly the sun is down there being no twilight. We got on board safely tho’ it was much more difficult getting into than out of the boat. One of the lads while waiting for us on the beach had quarrelled with the centinel and had given him a good English thrashing.. During the day the deck was covered with the natives selling their fruits such as Cocoa nuts. Bananas, pine apples, guavas, Oranges, lemons, limes, tamarinds – they had also eggs, poultry, spirits and wines. They were more anxious to exchange for old clothes especially black or blue coloured cloth clothes, than to sell for money so we got whatever was [Page 57] worthless and exchanged it away – every one having well supplied them with fruits. Monday 14 May This morning the decks were again thronged with fellows ready to barter and I made my purchases altogether amounting to 150 oranges, 140 eggs, 6 pine apples, 24 lemons, 4 cocoanuts and a hat made of some kind of grass in the manner of leghorn without a seam. They gave me 100 oranges and 2 cocoanuts for a cheque shirt which when new cost 2/6 and also the hat and 2 pineapples for a pair of linen trowsers. Mr Smith the 2c for an old blue frock coat the flap of which had been torn off. – 1 Sovereign 3 doz eggs, and 100 oranges and a basket - a very good exchange, The Capt’n got several turkeys pigs and poultry for some of his old clothes & slops. We again went ashore again today and Mr Bright and Mr Agar and myself went into a garden below the tower on the north side – here were growing the plantain tamarind Cocoa nut and vines in a very flourishing state the plantain shoots out in the centre perpendicularly a leaf rolled up like a quire of foolscap or white or brown paper – about 2 inches in diameter and 2



to 3 feet long it remains thus till another shoots up within it and the former one then expands and grows to an immense size I have seen them 10 or 12 ft long and 2 feet wide each leaf and the tree is thus formed of a number of these [indecipherable] [Page 58] The leaf as first opened is a pale green colour as smooth as satin and crossed from the centre with ribs. The older leaves are darker coloured and most of them split into ribbons between the ribs by the motion of the wind. The tamarind is a nice tree as large as an apple tree, with a round bushy head and the leaf like that of the acacia and having thorns upon like the acacia.. In this garden was a fine well of water abt. 10ft in diameter and not more than 15 to the surface of the water – it was drawn up by a very crude process – a series of earthenware cups each holding about a quart tied to a rope passed over a wheel at the top and bottom when they come to the top the water falls out into a trough which conducts it into a cistern from whence water casks are filled and carried into the town by slaves many of whom we saw toiling in the scorching sun with a keg of water about 9 gals upon their backs. We returned to the Consul’s took some refreshment and afterwards several sketches were taken of the town which I here insert and after getting to the ship we were once more under weigh the night was fine and the wind fair and by 10 o’clock we were out of sight of land and before morning many of the passengers were again sea sick. I employed myself all the evening in storing away all my fruit &c – which I managed so well as to prevent their bruising [Page 59] [Two sketches on this page – The house of Mr Barker (British Consul) and The Governor’s residence] [Page 60 blank] [Page 61] [More sketches – The Catholic Church and The North side of the square – Praya -] [Page 62 blank] [Page 63] One thing we remarked at Praya was that they had no chimneys to their houses but had a kitchen detatched and even here the fire is made in the place and the smoke finds its way out between the tiles. We took in a great quantity of water and as the men pulled the casks up the side of the ship they made light work of it by singing – one man usually sings the song and the rest join in the chorus. Tuesday May 15th The freshness of the sea air today was delightful after the oppressive heat of the land yesterday and the ship is getting on well to the southward – all sick again Mrs Lister as usual first and worst. The thermometer 80¾ in the shade: took saline draughts which relieved my headache. Wednesday 16th The heat sensibly increasing as we are especially approaching the line – every one seems oppressed by it – I feel an extreme lassitude – the wind continues fair and the ship still on her proper course Thursday 17th Still hot and yet the breeze is refreshing especially in the evening when all are upon deck walking and singing. We are expecting to loose the NE and get the SE trade winds every day now [Page 64] Friday May 18th lat 6.56 long w 20º 0’ Wind lighter and the weather more intensely hot the thermometer 88º in the shade –awful and sublime lightning this evening the whole sky illuminated with it not as at home with flashes but like a sheet of fire covering the sea and heavens – Saturday 19th



Cloudy sultry day no observation of the sun the N E Trade winds lost and we are becalmed. In the evening a sudden and violent gale came on and as usually is the case all sails were set for a light wind and we were in an instant on her side almost capsized but by the prompt attention of the Capt’n who was upon deck at the time she was soon got right afore the wind and her sails furled we were scudding away the rest of the evening - hoping however we had got the S E Trades as a change of wind is generally preceded by a squall This evening the sea was like a silver sea. The water being very luminous the bows of the ship seemed to be cutting thro’ molten silver and the tops of the waves as they broke by the violence of the gale looked altogether as if the ocean was trying to vie with the splendour of the atmosphere which was this evening very beautiful but a great distance from us [Page 65] Sunday 20th lat 10.15 long 19 - 40¾ A perfect calm and the sun’s rays full on us unbroken by a cloud or any thing really scorching hot – Mr Bishton again performed divine service. Monday 21st Calm still very unpleasant all anxiously desiring a fair wind that we may be going on our way for then the feeling we are passing thro’ it advises us of an end. Some ships have been becalmed near the line for 6 weeks – it is also attended with great dangers from the gales or rather squalls – this evening a dreadful one came just as we were sitting down to dinner. I walked to the ship’s side to look over at the beautifully luminous sea and was in the act of putting my hands on the bulwarks to lean over when in an instant the squall came – her side was so driven down by the violence of it that where I should have put mu hands was now covered with the sea and I should have been lost but how I did it I know not for I threw myself backwards and escaped a watery grave – after the squall we had very heavy rain and thunder and lightning during all this weather – so hard that the Capt’n could not leave the deck – the ladies were all enjoying [Page 66] their dinners as much as if they had been ashore in fact not thinking at all about it. A ship seen today about 10 miles off. Tuesday May 22nd A little wind today but fair and should it continue it will soon carry us into the expected trade wind Saw some large fishes loaded my rifle with a ball shot one but not enough to kill it Wednesday 23 – AS yesterday – the sea looks white in the sun shine Thursday 24th Nothing new still scorching hot A sail to leeward perhaps the same we saw Monday Tuesday 25 Nice showers of rain today cooled us beautifully I caught a bucket full it was quite a treat to wash in for tho’ we are not limited in our supply yet it is very hard for washing. The breeze that follows the showers too is delightfully refreshing and reminds me of England tho’ we want [indecipherable] of the gardens which are by this in full bloom- how delightful – but the best way to be happy is to think of the mercies we possess and not of those we [Page 67] cannot get – so by looking at Mrs Lister’s solitary geranium which is in flower and on my pineapples and the other fruit from St Jago’s I make myself contented – Saturday 26 The sail seen on Thursday – again seen to the leeward. In the evening a Barque to windward on the same tack as ourselves – we made signals to her but was not answered. I have been several days laid up with a cold and sore throat which prevents my taking sufficient nourishment to make up for the great loss by perspiration and fel therefore extremely weak. Sunday 27th This morning I was awoke by being told the ship seen to leeward was [indecipherable] to us and would be near enough [indecipherable] to breakfast on board by 9 o’clock. I was soon upon deck and found her about 1 mile astern but very light and making up to us very fast I called Mrs Fowles and Miss Collier up I could distinctly [indecipherable] and her looking [indecipherable] I expected there would be time to get breakfast before she could overtake us



so down I went. Just before I had half done Mr Smith announced that she was on the lee quarter [Page 68] and had hoisted Dutch Colours. We all rushed upon deck when the Capt’n asked what ship but the answers we could not make out – she was bound to Batavia from Rotterdam out 38 days – she soon put up her helm and filling her sails she walked away from us gallantly and before night had disappeared in the distance – we saw her name on her stern “King of the Netherlands”. [Sketch of two ships] [Page 69] Monday 28th May The vessel seen so many times lately at some distance was this morning in our wake 2 or 3 miles astern with all her studding sails set and appeared to be fast gaining on us – (we had not stud’g sails set) so the Capt’n thought she wished to speak us he accordingly luffed up closer into the wind and at abt 2 p m she was alongside – we had been talking to the Capt’n and laughing that every sail seen had passed us and this was doing the same – it put him on his metal and he ordered all the stud’g sail booms to be rigged out determined to have a try for it The vessel was hailed with “what ship is that which was repeated as we could not exactly make out but understood it to be the Adam of Boston out 39 days losing 23.06 West – he said there was a strong tide setting to the westward which had carried for 60 miles to westward in the last 24 hours they were bound for Calcutta [indecipherable] the Cape – we wished them all the compliments appropriate on such occasions and then spread our stud’g sails walked away from her gallantly. Before night we had nearly lost her in the horizon – Miss C had a violent attack of hysterics which much alarmed all. [Page 70] Tuesday 29th May No late apples to be got at any price – Emily weakly from the attack but much recovered. The night has been very sultry and close a light breeze from the Southward however makes it rather cooler – we now sleep with the cabin doors all open and no covering upon us and even then it is insufferably hot when we left England we could bear the doors shut and two blankets upon us – it is amusing in the morning to hear the different reports – some are baked others boiled and some stewed Mr Bishton determined never to be outdone says he is quite cold while Mrs B says it is so hot she cannot sleep by night so she laid in bed all day to make up for it. Wednesday 30th lat 1-15 South long 25-45 The breeze continues fresh and at abt 11 o’clock last night we crossed the line – It is on board most ships (or rather was for it is almost out of use now) a custom the seamen have of shaving all who have not before crossed the line. A man dressed in a very grotesque attire with long beard and trident ascends the ship’s side and comes aboard announces himself as Neptune and demands his fee – he enquires after his wife [Page 71] who is supposed to be on board and how his children are and that all his new born (such as have not before crossed the line) be brought up to him he then orders them to be shaved and made tidy, they are then besmeared with tar rolled in feathers and then thrown overboard or into water and finished by having it scraped off with a piece of hoop iron this is the shaving. To avoid this it is usual to pay a fine and accordingly a subscription was laid in the cabin for the men when they go ashore. – We have now been from Plymouth 40 days and the Capt’n has crossed it in this ship in 28 days and it is frequently done in the large Indiamen in 21 but I believe the consider it good in a month so variable are the winds between the trades then it is quite a matter of uncertainty. By the old logs I perceive it is abt 10 weeks voyage hence to Sydney but the Capt’n says as it will be the winter season from the Cape the winds will in all probability be strong and we may expect a quick passage. Thursday 31st



Seven weeks today we came on board and are still in the same state of expectation – such is life the past is soon forgotten, the present little thought of and the future is to us big with every thing [Page 72] Friday June 1st Lat 5º5’ S Long 28º 30¼’ W We have had a fine run the last 24 hours – the wind being fresh and squally in the night. The yankee in sight today some miles to windward her fore royal topgallant sails in suppose she has received some injury in the squalls – up again by noon and we being close on the wind made up to her we passed astern of her and saw her name “Brighton of Boston” instead of Adam. We left her behind again today the only wonder is how she contrives to make up to us The flying fish are very numerous the look like swallows skimming the surface and occasionally touching the water. They fly at times a great distance 200 yards I should say tho’ some on shore say they only leap – I have seen some leap on board about the size of a mackerel which they much resemble; with a pair of fins like wings extending about ½ the length of the fish. I noticed a large bird nearly over the sky called a booby and in the afternoons saw at a distance a large flock of them it is astonishing at how great a distance from land birds are found and with what ease they appear to fly incessantly. [Page 73] Saturday 2nd Lat The South East trade continues fresh and we are going abt 7 knots the ‘ close hauled The Yankee again seen on the lee bow and at night astern again having passed her. I was today thinking how perfectly I had become accustomed to the ships motion which at the commencement of the voyage was a source of much uneasiness. I then thought oh! what would I give for one hour’s stillness – and realized what I have often laughed at in a song the request of the lady that the Capt’n would stop the ship. I grew so tired being unable to sleep I then lay down to try to sleep but the continued motion would not allow me – and whatever weather there might be still there is motion even in a calm I think it more disagreeable than at any other time especially when it comes as it sometimes does after a brisk wind which leaves a great swell on and the ship having no wind to press her side steadily down – she rolls from one side to the other fearfully; ships have been known to lose their masts by the rolling in a calm. When the wind is right aft it causes the ship to roll and when in bed you expect every minute to rollout of your bed having the same motion as a child’s [Page 74] cradle. Sometimes and indeed always when sailing upon a wind(that is when the wind is before us) the ship pitches her head rises and falls and as we have found the wind to be generally ahead we have almost continually had the pitching. I should advise friends taking a voyage always to choose their cabin as near as possible to the centre of the vessel as possible thereby avoiding much of the motion felt in the stern cabins. When the breeze is fresh the motion is short and the vessel seems thumping against a rock or something solid which gives a sort of tremulous motion – like a drunken man running against a wall, she stands as if astonished and then with a long step off she goes bouncing along till she again meets another obstacle. Sunday June 3rd 9.41 S Long W The morning fine and the breeze fresh – the sea rolling in from the S. E. very heavy the motion of the ship very great but she rides over it light as a duck. I have been out on the jib boom (the outer bowsprit) and it is pleasant to see her head now diving into the waves and then bounding up over them bursting the spray away from the bows [Page 75] in the most beautiful white foam like the clouds for softness. Ahead of the Yankee today altho’ she is carrying more courses than we are. At noon a violent squall obliged Mr Bishton to omit his sermon and the passengers to run below for shelter it continued showery all day and in the afternoon the fore backstay gave way, the fore topgallant sail and flying jib were soon hauled in and all hands employed in the repair which was soon effected and all sail again set except the fore topsail stunsail and main Royal the halyards of which had been carried away in the squall.



Monday 4th lat 11.45 S long 31.11 W Mrs Fowles very poorly today from a cold taken – the cold during the squalls is very great and coming so suddenly after as great heat – gives many colds. If our wind continues we hope to clear the Cape in three weeks tho’ the wind is still contrary very nearly due South we are consequently going too much to westward – we shall see Trinidad next. [Page 76] We have lost the Yankee in the squalls last night but whether ahead or not cant say it is likely ahead for we were obliged to have two reefs in the topsails for the night. All hands employed today setting up rigging and stowing away things tight on the deck this looks like a preparation for rough weather. Tuesday 5th June lat 13-26 S. long 31.30 This is a fine day; all the passengers are reading Scott’s novels. I am reading Kenilworth – we are already dying to find a change of temperature - today 74º I must say I have been agreeably deceived in the manner in which we pass our time the monotony being in a great measure destroyed by the number of passengers and the pretty good terms we are on with all. At 6 this evening a sail on the weather quarter abt 10 miles off steering to the N. W. Wednesday 6 June lat 15.29 – long 31.35 Time flew [indecipherable] with us which is a pretty clear sign that it passes pleasantly Thursday 7th 17..44 Nine weeks today since we left London Scarcely any wind today there was a stiff breeze in the night. [Page 77] Finished Kenilworth today [indecipherable] Waverly – Emily Rob Roy. I will now commence my description of the passengers which I have for some time neglected and indeed I have felt so indisposed as not to have the slightest inclination to writing – reading or anything except strolling about on deck or up the rigging to look for a sail Mr Hindson was the first to whom I was introduced I met him in St Katherine’s Docks on board the ship – and although a youth of only 19 he is the most difficult character to fathom on board – he seldom opens his lips unless you speak to him and then he seems not to have heard as he stares vacantly and unintelligibly and nine times out of ten makes no reply. He is a native of Cumberland and seems to have borrowed so much of the reserve so conspicuous in the Scotch character – this is perhaps caused by his having been in Banking houses for some time and here silence is of great importance and he is remarkably well adapted for it. You would think him stupid but if he does speak it is generally to the point [Page 78] shows that he is not quite so helpless an observer as you would imagine. In person he is tall & [indecipherable] toned his features are good and regular rather inclined to be carroty. He is fond of music – reading of plays etc but by no means an admirer of the fair sex he never pays them the least attention. At the table he is rather ill mannered he never takes issue with any but the Mate except he is challenged and he never offers to assist any one to vegetables but himself and if he wishes any thing he should his plate into your hand and says – I’ll take so & so without any other remark – and as he sits on my right hand he sometimes to avoid even the troubles of speaking so much, he takes the carving knife and would help himself did I not stop him – and he does not take it to be rude doing so. He bears everything with the same tame spirit, if the soup is upset over him or a cup of tea or anything else he makes no [indecipherable] [indecipherable] but looks rather [indecipherable] and the swinging tray is frequently cleared of every thing in a shower over him by his putting his head against [Page 79] it and preventing its keeping its perpendicular yet this does not teach him to avoid doing so is he has had it happen frequently. Friday 8 June Lat 18.10 to Long 32.23. The wind has fallen off to a calm and the sea is so smooth that we are scarcely sensible of any motion whatever. In the night I was called up to see a whale which had been following the Ship for several hours – the mate who has been



many years in a whaling vessel says it was a young one that had lost its Mother and had mistaken the ship for her – it came so close that I could strike it from the deck and it seemed to me to be abt 40 ft long. I went below and got Mrs Fowles up to see it but before we got upon deck the whale had disappeared and she was disappointed. Saturday June 9th lat 20.2 – long 32.40. Still calm but more swell which indicates wind – and afternoon it was verified for it freshened and we were again pushing on tho so much to Westward that we cannot sight Trinidad being in the same Latitude to day. [Page 80] This evening all were much delighted with the setting sun. Many times did Mr Wright run up from dinner to catch a sight but was generally too late but this evening all were gratified it was indeed a significant sight – the heavens above had a light green tinge the cloud at first had a rich Golden yellow and the fleecy clouds were like molten gold. It continued to grow darker and then assumed a deep orange hue and this changed finally into the deepest crimson, having gradually gone this all the intervening shades. The horizon to the East was a rich [indecipherable] or plum colour. This was the tenth day the Captains son Henry, a sweet little fellow 2 years old, he was born at sea near the Westward Islands – and has now crossed the line 3 times. He is a very great favourite with all & often amuses us with his funny little ways – he tried to mimic his father & when upon deck he goes up to his mama and holds out his arm for her to take – that she may walk with him like a man. Of course his health was drank by all and as it is usually done here in Cham [Page 81] pagne too 4 bottles of which were emptied [indecipherable] other wines which were up the table. Out dinner as usual was very excellent and I cannot speak too highly of the manner in which our table is supplied today – we had soup – roast turkey & boiled ham & a roast leg of mutton plum pudding & apple fritters – des[s]ert almonds raisins walnuts & oranges – few who have not been to sea form any idea of the excellent fare we get the variety being as great as the most fastidious appetite desire this Mrs Lister has and when in some mealtime we are indebted for the endless of diet we experience. She is never satisfied for after making an excellent dinner off the Turkey she was sorry she hadn’t taken mutton as it looked so much nicer she said tho’ in reallity [sic] a better bird or better dressed could not be put on a table, it must be very painful to the Captn to see all his attempts to please her unsuccessful yet he is unwearied. Yesterday little Henry was taken ill with s sore throat and I never saw nay one more anxious than the Captn till the medicine I gave him relieved him for which he was very grateful to me. [Page 82] Sunday 10 June lat 22 long A shady breeze today tho forcing us to the Westwards rather too much. The temperature the last few days very much lower than we have had it and consequently delightful. The sun now rises and sets at about 6 and it is dark – very soon after the sun is down. There is very little twilight – It is pleasant to see the Sabbath observed even on board a ship so orderly by all. There is that stillness pervading every thing to day, and all the men are free from all unnecessary work it seems a day of rest truly. Monday 11th There was gentle shower of rain this morning which cooled the decks and also this atmosphere indeed – it gives a freshness to all things in a measure as a shore. A Land seen on the Weather quarter too far off to make out what. The next Passenger to introduce is Mr G Wright and whom we found & just on board the ship at Gravesend. He is apparently about 25 but in reallity only 20 years of age who is not so quiet as Hindson but by no means talkative he is very good tempered and social enjoys a little mirth. [Page 83] Mr Wood during his short stay by his ridiculous nonsense kept him constantly on the chuckle as he never laughs out – he also became quite attatched to Mr Wood and at parting



exchanged snuff boxes and I think I observed a tear in his eye. He has a most voracious appetite, never seems satisfied and this has never forsaken him from the first. All have failed to be regularly at the Cuddy table but he has never deserted. He has never once been sea sick. He has on this account been of great service to others as his mother was put particularly to Miss P to whom he had paid particular attention – some seemed to think there will be a wedding before we leave the ship but to me it is very obvious that there is something between them which in all probability will end in something of the sorts. He is very fond of reading such books as Pickwick papers and light reading generally – indeed he is seldom without a book. Tuesday 12th Little Henry much worse today having increased his cold by being taken up on deck in the [indecipherable] [indecipherable] [indecipherable] (they are washed every [indecipherable]). All the Ladies much alarmed I administered medicine [sketch of the boat underneath text at bottom of page] [Page 84] which relieved him – he is suffering from inflammation of the throat & trachea. The sail seen yesterday – much nearer today – at noon another sail seen which came up to and passed the other and which we all found to be the Yankee again. Wednesday 13th June lat 26.55 Henry had a better night – his blister on the chest having risen well – upon the whole he is better – but still in a dangerous state. The Yankee in sight to windward in [large sketch of boat “Brightman of Boston on bottom of page] [Page 85] which position I have sketched here but by night we had fetched on her and had got at least 10 miles to windward of her. Another sail on the lee quarter supposed a whaler. The wind has become now free and we are making a true Sr Camisa 7 knots an hour. We now feel this change of climate early being out of the tropics – we have without the windsail some days and can now sleep with our cabin doors shut and can almost have a blanket on the bed. I have today been up to the cross trees at the main topmast head – to look out for [indecipherable] and find it pleasant the motion of the ship is so smooth aloft very like swinging in a swing – I have often been astonished at the apparent careless manner in which the Sailors go even to the Royal quarters and seen as heedless as if they were out. This evening Henry was so very ill almost with the croup – all thought him dying. Mr Lister was almost mad. The Captn much excited I gave him an emetic and afterwards his breathing became much easier and he is now sweetly & Puffing. I have been tempted by the stillness of the ship to try to paint a little but find my colours so badly granted – and to make it impossible. [Page 86] Thursday 14th June lat 20 ÷ 45 ¼ This has been a day of intense interest to all in consequence of the dangerous state in which little Henry is – during the night he was in continual danger of Suffocation from the phlegm rising in his throat which by unremitted attendance was relieved. Mrs Lister was almost frantic throwing herself down upon the floor and crying violently refusing comfort – the most perfect stillness prevailed in the cabin not a word was spoken all day but a suppressed wisper went round. The Captn was so much affected that to divert his attention from the subject so all absorbing he dressed himself clearing up the cabin but when relief came to the little sufferer after the crises had passed he seemed as frantic with joy as he had been with soreness – so nearly do the extremes of joy and grief approach that it is difficult to find the line of distinction. The excitement has been very great to me I have not been to bed these 3 nights & my head now aches violently. Friday June 15th Lat 30.26.The same favourable symptoms continues and the inflammation has subsided the formation of phlegm has nearly ceased [Page 87] but he is in a very debilitative state and refuses every kind of food.



The first “Cape Pilgrim” seen today and our old friend at the Yankee also seen again it is very singular. I have been on deck painting till the cold drove me below, so rapidly are we getting to the Southwards that we feel the change the more. Saturday 16 June lat 31.55 long 23.50. Henry gradually improving and his mother with it is getting very silly and troublesome wishing to give him improper things and to take him out from their warm cabin into the other cold one where the hatch is open. I have been aloft today and tho on deck the water looks quite rough – here it appears perfectly smooth. Several sea birds have been seen today a black Petrel in shape and make such a bird as the Swift or Screacher but such a bird as the Swift or Screacher but with wings extending all 3ft continually on the wing, also several boobies a large sea bird, dark brown with white belly – and numbers of cape pigeons. We are going on so well that all are in excellent spirits expecting to pass the Captn in a week if the wind continues, but we must not build upon wind. [Page 88] Sunday 17 June Lat 32.5 Long 21.55 The wind today less favourable and our bright hopes again dissipated; during the night the wind so much shifted that we were about on the other tack which is very unpleasant for me unless prepared for it by putting a board alongside my bed place – and which I do not when on the starboard tack – Service was performed on deck as usual but it was so cold Mrs. Faron her boa & Cloak. The wind still obstinately blowing the wrong way tho it is almost a calm. A sail to windward at a great distance. Have been amusing myself shooting the Cape pigeons it is excellent sport but the motion of the ship makes it very difficult. Henry’s breathing very quiet and easy and is gradually improving but he does not like to take anything seeming to think it is medicine. It begins to look very like winter here now the frequent rain and cold winds remind me much of the cold of November at home. The deck is being cleared of all lumber and useless articles – the supply water casks are taken to pieces and several stowed in [Page 89] one. The light sails which have been set are taken down – or unbent as the sailors call it and fresh ones put in their place though this leads me to expect weather we have not yet experienced. Tuesday 19th Lat 33.50 long 19.0 The wind has increased and is also rather more fair and in the evening we found the wind so strong as to compel us to take in sail tho running before it. Talking of the cold at breakfast the Mate said he never used any sheets as when wet [indecipherable] rain they turn in the blankets soon warm them. Mr. Bishton suggested that in travelling when you seldom get well amid sheets it would be best to take them out and lie in the blankets thereby avoiding the taking of colds. Mrs. Wright could not do so as flannel irritate her beyond every thing she said. There upon to agree the occasion of sheets I proposed she take a linen bag long enough to get into and have it tied around the neck which would be the same way of keeping off the blankets. Mrs. Wright approved of the plan till Mr. B. said in case of fire it would be rather awkward. [Page 90] Wednesday 20th June 33.58 lat 18.0 long w The wind last night continued to increase and it was by pure good luck we did not find ourselves upon the floor of the cabin instead of upon our beds – everything was thrown from the shelves in all directions the contents of a small shelf once our washstand by my beds head such as cold cream pots with bottles brushes and combs were all showered into bed to me. I could hear that others were not exempt from the same – trunks and boxes were hasting about first one side then another of the several cabins and in the stewards pantry by some chance the dish covers did get loose and these completed the confusion by their noise. I arose at 8 and found the wind having swung all around the compass during the night to be the cause of our disturbance – the sea was very high and the waves running in from all points – as the wind had been produced what is called a cross sea and is the most unpleasant for the ship to ride in and frequently two waves from opposite quarters meeting top up their white



foaming heads in such grand and beautiful style – but after the wind has been blowing in the same direction for any time the sea becomes regular and the waves all in parallel [Page 91] lines forming here hills and then vallies and the ship rides over them with a gentle undulating motion like that of a cradle when the wind is abeam on a rocking horse when it is behind us – or nautically “as aft” [Page 92 indecipherable] [Page 93] To see the immense chasm between the waves you would think it improbable to get the ship over it but in an instant with a gentle and easy motion she is in the depth and again on the summit of the wave seldom shiping any water over the decks and ourselves scarcely conscious of the uneasiness of our path . But often after she has pushed over two or three waves of nearly the same size she in her descent meets a wave quicker than the others had come – she has not time to rise and consequently dives into it bursting the sea in spray over the decks and when the wave is very large in a wall of water sweeping everything before it. Wet all day few passengers on deck. Capt. ill with rheumatism in the head to which he is subject. Henry I fear is sinking from want of nourishment not being able to retain any thing in his stomach. Thursday 21st lat 35 long15w Wind more fair and sea more smooth and should it continue we should see Tristan de Cunda tomorrow. I feel very much unwell today from cold taken in the sun yesterday. Captn a little better. Henry the same & cannot retain the medicine in his stomach but while there is life there is hope especially with children. [Page 94] Friday 22 June lat long 11.49 Thick hazy day passed Tristan at noon but did not see till abt. 4 pm – 40 miles to the W – it appears to be very high land. Ships frequently put in for potatoes, water and sometimes stock which is indifferent – there are plenty of sea lions on the shore The Captn & myself confined to our cabins but escaped to take a peep at the land altho very improperly. Saturday 23 This morning called early to Henry who had been sick all night – every thing which could be thought of was tried but nothing would remain in his stomach and at abt noon he died. Mrs, Lister was much affected as was also the Captn but he bore it with fortitude like a man and supported his wife with much kindness. All of us feel his loss as he had by his amusing ways wound himself around all our hearts. Sunday 24th A gloomy day after an very unpleasant feeling night. I feel very ill. All are much as yesterday. The Capn. and Mrs. Lister supported much under their great affliction I hope derived from God – in the morning the Captn was saying how very delightful feel many of the Psalms were he had been reading especially under present circumstances. [Page 95] I was happy to hear it as I had as I had not before heard him speak of his any Subject connected with religion. Monday 25th The wind fair weather fine tho a very unpleasant motion in the ship. I am a little better today – so is the Captn. Tuesday 26 This is the day appointed for the Coronation of her Majesty and here are we 6,000 miles off at the last Coronation I was at the Washbrook how often do I reflect upon the many pleasant hours there spent and regret that I ever left it. Wednesday 27th The wind quiet all day nearly a perfect calm . The Captn and sailors all say that they never crossed these seas without so little rough weather and so much fine. Thursday 28th



As after a calm wind may be expected so the calm yesterday was succeeded by a gale in the night & all sails were taken in but the main foretop sails close reefed – the main trysail & foretopmast stay sail thus we were almost lying to when I came upon deck . It had carried and as the wind blew from the Southward it is extremely cold for the contrary of England the South wind is the coldest & also the Barometer falls against fine & rises against rough weather. [Page 96] the sea continued to rage and occasionally to burst over the ship which it did several times fearfully whilst I was upon deck and I had scarcely left the deck this morning when a heavy sea broke over her – to those in the cabin it appeared like an immense weight thrown from the main top ready to burst the deck in upon our heads such was to us time that it was several minutes before it could run off the deck. The ladies in the cabin I found in excellent spirits laughing and chatting as merrily as if they were by a cheerful fire side in England. It is very cold nights now we can have a thick blanket double upon the bed – Friday 29th A very lazy day could not get upon deck. I can scarcely imagine how I shall be able to live in the cabin when the rough weather we expect will prevent my going upon deck. I have been busy drawing – some are reading others sewing &c &c – Mr Wood remarked he had never spent so much of his time out of doors as he had done aboard ship the few days he was with us – and so we have continued to do – going up first thing in the morning and remaining till bedtime mealtimes of course excepted – [Page 97] Saturday 30 June To day the weather continued much as it was yesterday & day before – but we had a pleasant sunshine instead of rain – We had a service to perform today which does not often occur on board ship – a funeral. On Saturday last Henry died and from that day Mrs Lister determined to keep him if possible a week – she has borne with great fortitude the loss and was piously resigned to it as the will of the Father of us all who gave him to her. This morning when the time proposed had come she wished him to be kept another day but the Capt’n had given his orders, and as it was deemed silly to postpone it longer – it took place. It is usual at sea to tie the body up in a hammock or counterpane and with

weight to sink it thrown overboard on this

occasion a coffin was made of Sydney cedar and finished very neatly and about a foot longer than was required for the body to give room for weight – it was also lined with sheet lead and this covered with flannel round the edge

was a flashing like a frill and

into this on Tuesday he

was put dressed in a flannel gown and the pretty lace cap in which he had been christened – [Page 98] the spare place at the foot was filled with loose iron and the lead cover put on but not so closed down which would render it watertight and prevent it sinking the top was then secured by screws and iron bands I painted a plate cut out of lead and polished lightly “H. Lister died at sea 23rd June in the ship Fortune – when all was secure he was carried up on deck and a hen coop placed the lee side level with the bulwarks and covered with the union Jack was placed upon it. The bell now tolled and Mr Bishton

took his stand at the head Mr Wright at the

foot and the Capt’n by the side the seamen all on the other side and the passengers as at Service sitting upon the hen coops – some had mourning others had none the only black article I could find was an old waistcoat all mine having been packed away. The Service was read in a very solemn and impressive manner and at that particular point – “we commit this body to the deep” it was slipped over the side into the sea – it rose once but instantly sank to rise no more. The Capt’n bore all without evincing any emotion – tho’ he felt it most acutely [Page 99] I suppose he considers it would look unmanly before the men to shed tears – indeed I could not suppress mine – It was a remarkable circumstance but this was also the captn’s wedding day. Sunday 1st July A very cold dull day Thermometer down to 47° - Service performed in the Cabin The wind right aft and the ship rolling Monday 2nd



A calm nearly all day but the sea rolling in with a heavy swell – the whole ship rolls over so much as the sides sometimes to be under water – In the evening the wind freshened but being right aft the motion continued. Tuesday 3rd Lat 39..35 long 12.54 East The wind has gradually increased and is now very fresh, weather fine – Mrs [indecipherable] and Emily on deck walking – I was at the stern shooting the large birds – quite as large as geese – I killed 6 and did not once miss – They are continually flying about the ship in numbers, this is always so in the South Seas but not North of the Line where we seldom saw a bird or any thing living out of the ship [Page 100] Wednesday 4th July A fine sun shining day and little motion the wind having got round to the starboard side which keeps her steady – Mrs Fowles poorly with a cold caught on deck last night – All our people are getting very lazy lying in bed ‘till 9 & 10 o clock – I generally rise at 7 as before – Emily and Mrs Wright are the next up – yesterday some were at breakfast at 11 o clock – We are so far to the South that we shall not in all probability feel more wind passing the Cape than anywhere else – ships going to China & the East Indies generally suffer much – we expect to be in the longitude of the Cape tomorrow Thursday 5th The wind and sea had increased very much during the night which with the swell ahead made the pitching of the ship very unpleasant, this always produces a sensation in my head very peculiar and not exactly a head ache and yet it is as bad Mrs F in bed all day poorly with her cold but much better in the evening having had a little dinner and chocolate at tea time [Page 101] By observation to day tho’ not very good being cloudy the longitude was made 20.48 E & lat 41.0 South so we are passed the Cape of Good Hope which I suppose means we may entertain a Good hope of a safe voyage – the Capt’n has gone from this to Sydney in 35 days – I wish we may do 30 – Altho it is so very cold this evening in the clear moonlight there was much lightning Friday 6 July lat 41.27 long 24.54 East The wind still continues very fresh and fair the ship has more sail on her than she has had lately – she is making 4 or 5 degrees a day The sun has shone all day and flocks of ice birds are flying about they appear about the size of the thrush with wings like a swallow and are of a pretty dove colour I went into the main top to see the action of the ship thro’ the water more distinctly than from the deck – she seems to bound over the waves and occasionally dives into it & the spray breaks up nearly to the fore top. Mrs F much better to day – Emily and others complaining of colds. Saturday 7th Wind and sea making fast the sea breaks over [Page 102] the deck – frequently – if it increased much more it will be what is called a gale Sunday 8th July As I expected when I came on deck the wind was blowing quite a gale – the ship tossing fearfully much worse than we have ever had it no one could sleep all night for it. The hen coops were fastened round the skylight to prevent the sea breaking in – The hatches were all secured and well they were for we were shipping heavy seas every instant enough to stove in the deck – On Sunday The Mate came below to say the fore sail had been carried away –The only sails left set being fore & main top sails close reefed and fore topmast staysail and with even these we were running ab’t 9 knots an hour It was little like Sunday all being confusion and noise. Emily confined to her bed with a very bad cold Only Mr Hinds up to breakfast with me the cabin looked truly miserable the hen coops shutting out nearly all the light and the vessel tumbling about so much that it is almost impossible to keep our plates upon the table. [Page 103] Monday 9th lat 39.54 long E 32.21



The sea very high after the gale yesterday it takes at least two or three minutes for the ship to pass from one wave to another they are so large – the wind today is still fresh and we have more sail on her From the quarter deck near the wheel I could see the sea over the fore yard which is ab’t 30ft. above the deck this may convey some idea of the height of the waves – when I first came on board this would have alarmed me but now it only fills me with admiration and delight to see our little barque dancing over them Mrs F remarked that she had often felt more apprehension of danger ashore in a rough wind than she did aboard even on Saturday night when I think it was the roughest we have experienced hitherto Tuesday 10th Bath cherry fair and the middle of summer in England – how strange and here we are in the depth of winter and both cold and wet – the rain being almost incessant – how truly miserable for the poor sailors who are obliged to be upon deck always by turns – the whole crew being divided into two watches [Page 104] At about noon the wind again began to increase and by evening it had become quite a gale again and as it blew from the eastward we were obliged to lay to – The sea is not as it was yesterday long & heavy but caped and violent bursting and foaming like mad and the ship may truly be said to be labouring which word well expresses her condition She seems to heave and twist and strain in every direction. The sea not allowing her time to rise and fall gradually but rolling and tossing awfully and the sea rolling over the decks seems to threaten every minute to sink us - but she is “tight as a bottle” to use the Carpenter’s expression for amongst it all she does not make 6 inches a day. Many ships and good ones too in a gale like this will make a foot every hour and require the pumps to be going constantly whereas ours is only pumped morning and evening, In the midst of all this we go on with our meals as regularly as possible and our dinners are cooked admirably tho’ it is a continual matter of astonishment how the cook contrives to keep the things in the pot. Sometimes by the bye all the dish is upset bringing from the galley. [Page 105] Wednesday 11th July Another day of great excitement, the wind which had slacked away in the evening slightly increased again and the night was more violent than ever. The rudder post was discovered to be nearly twisted off – the head of the rudder was originally morticed for a tiller but now filled up and this has so weakened it that the strain continually upon it has nearly gone being cracked into several pieces – we lashed it round with ropes and secured it as well as we could but it was then in a very unsafe state and gave the Captain much anxiety no one in the cabin was aware of it but myself and the cabin . This is the birth day of Anna Goldstone & we did not forget even in a gale to drink her health and with many happy returns of it to her – all in the cabin joined in it. Thursday 12th The morning seemed to promise an end to the gale which had now continued two days but our hopes were like the sun which showed himself. soon lost in the clouds and haze covering the horizon – The gale increased and thro’ the worst of it I remained on deck my confidence was so much increased by the manner in which [Page 106] she walked the water like a thing of life. The sailors all say she is the most easy vessel in a sea they ever were in. Friday 13th July The Barometer which had at the beginning of the gale risen as high as 30.4 had now fallen to tenths – this indicates a W or NW wind as well as a gale – the rising indicates an E or SE which it had been throughout we may therefore hope that it will prove a continued falling and the wind to increase and as all attempts to describe would fail. I shall not try. The sea runs very high & the summits of the waves are covered with white foam and looks like a torrent pouring down a hill – in one moment we were in a deep trough of the sea and the high mountain of a wave bringing over us seeming to threaten total extinction but the ship’s side rises – the wave passes under & we again slide down as it were into the trough and thus we



continued rolling over from side to side taking in much water and the deck kept constantly wet so as to make it very unpleasant to walk on. But you see that during the tempest (for a tempest of wind it was) I have not expected [Page 107] of fear or apprehension of danger neither was there any felt by any one of our party except Mrs Lister perhaps who is the most timid in the ship instead of the most courageous as experience might [to] have made her. Sarah went upon deck in the worst of it to see and admire the sea – which now looked like a very hilly country partially covered with snow. The wildness of the scene had a grand effect sometimes between the waves. The sea was quite smooth like ice at others like a green meadow in a valley mid the sea birds were scudding close to the surface even of the roughest waves without getting immersed and many were floating on the sea with as much ease & composure as a swan upon the Thames – this latter is a good omen as it generally indicates a moderation of the wind. The darkness of night added greatly to the horror of the howling & whistling wind, nothing could be seen but now and then the sea rushing across the decks and the lights from the cabin below glimmering thro’ the crevice left open by the curtains and hen coops round the sky light. Two men were sent up & sent down the fore top gallant-yard to lighten her aloft. I thought what a dangerous service for at the height they were the motion is so much [Page 108] more than upon deck and they have only their legs to hold on with, as their hands are well employed otherwise lowering the yard – this done Thomas went to the mast head to put the truck (a small round piece of wood) upon the very mast head so there [sic] holding on by a single spar swinging tremendously yet apparently thinking as little about it as if standing upon deck. Our meals afford endless amusement everything being in motion – a potatoe leaks from the deck into Mr Hindsons pocket – today the Captain had on a dish before him a sheeps head and several pieces of neck of mutton. The head was soon into Mr Hindsons lap, a piece of the mutton in Mrs B’s and the rest with difficulty kept still. The melted & caper sauce washes out of the tureen coming from the galley – I am not so much surprised at these accidents – as I am at the fewness of them. Saturday 14 July I arose early and found the wind had shifted round to the SW and the sea was going down fast with every appearance of fine weather. This was delightful and the more so as we expected an increase of wind. The wind now breaking the sea [Page 109] makes more spray than when bother are going in the same direction and today Mrs T and Emily were completely soaked with the spray breaking over the ships side. Sunday 15th Lat 39.29 S Long 41.20%. This morning being very clear and fine we had good sight as also a lunar observation by which we detect any error of the chronometer. I always assist the Captn and generally work the sights after they are taken to determine our true position The sea was now smooth and wind fair tho’ light the lower & topmast stimsails set and we are gliding abt 7 knots – imperceptibly a beautiful day with showers of rain – all the passengers on deck the crew doing the repairs. Monday 17th Lat 39.37 The weather continues fine and wind fair – all again upon deck – it was quite May weather and this brought back to my mind all my dear friends in England also led me on to contemplate my future prospects – and how little can the mast clear sighted me into futurity. Tuesday 17th Lat 39.50 Long [indecipherable] 7E. Still fine and all enjoying themselves being enabled to sleep to end &c without [indecipherable] of those troubles which a gale inevitably [Page 110] brings indeed the ordinary motion of the ship does in a less degree. The wind in the afternoon dying away. Wednesday 18 July A Calm with the motion – the sun pleasant. I hate these calms tho’ as they are generally following by rough weather.



Thursday 19th Still calm but rather lazy: a sail seen about 6 miles distant – also a shoal of porpoises jumping 5 or 6 feet out of the water. Evening – The vessel must have been a fast sailer as she had now entirely disappeared in the distance. The breeze freshened and we are now gliding easily at 7 knots all the sails asleep (full and steady). Friday 20th The wind nicely increasing and the wind shifted to NW which it continues will enable us to make up for delays. Reading in an album belonging to a lady on board I found some lines so very descriptive of the noise commotion and uproar of a ship that I will here copy them. [Page 111] That man by Jove! Who gives the dew The preference to land, must be A fool – or a Philosopher. Whom no privations, can deter The Glories of the ocean go and Tis very well to sit on land Tis very fine to have them earth’s By Thomas Campbell a child Harold. But very sad to see that ocean From East to West in wild commotion To hear the burly willows near Around, behind us and before To view the red and lurid sky In all its constant sympathy With sea as mad as moon can make The Mistress of that reckless rake Tis sad to trust the wintry wave Too oft alas the seamans grave To brave the foray of the storm Some notion of its rage to form To feel the dread sublime in all. The terrors of a sudden squall To grasp the gunwale evry time. The ruffian billows upward almost And cling to rope and every lurch That might uproot a parish church To see huge trumps and packing cases Fly off in tangents from their places [Page 112] The chairs and tables emulate The evolutions of a plate The layer dishes fiercely fall To Mortal conflict with the small The Conservative saucers chase Th’ inconstant cups from place to place. Grave mustard pots to teapots setting And pepper castors pirouetting To hear the same eternal thump From morn to night of either pump To hear the same infernal strife For days, for weeks, perhaps for life. The rattling blocks the tempests howl. The gruff command the surly growl With men of uncongenial mind T’be cribbed, cabin’d and confin’d To try at beef, in rounds and briskets Salt pork and adamantine biscuits And finally from first to last



To be convinced all suffering, past “An trifles light as air” to those A seasick lands man undergoes And own a ship is but a jail When our not doomed to die aground Is very likely to be crowned. [Page 113] Saturday 21st July The weather fine and wind continues steady – There is so little motion that we were enabled to dine without batteries on the table . The first time since we left England. Sunday 22nd Much as yesterday – Service upon deck dined without batteries – tho’ making 6 knots and as we had a new moon yesterday it is likely to continue. Monday 23rd – Lat 41.1 long 58.0. The wind today increasing and the sea also – the tips of the waves are very beautiful like emeralds brilliant green & which we are scudding nicely before the wind at about 8 knots and in our proper course. Tuesday 24 The wind has again increased to a gale and the sea is as rough as it was during any part of the last gale – but we have this consolation that we are running abt 9 or 10 knots in the proper direction instead of lying to. Wednesday 25th 42.19 long 67.10S. The Gale continues – and we are what is called scudding before the wind. [Page 114] We have made from Monday to Wednesday morn 400 geographical miles. This is something about it – I wish it may last. The ships motion is less the prepare on the sails, keeping her steady – but she occasionally rolls over and dips up water which rushes backwards and forwards from this side to that as the ship lies over. We are obliged to get into our cabins at night to keep ourselves warm. Tho it is mild in the day and we get upon deck. Thursday 26th We have again had a good run 210 miles today Friday 27th Wind still continues and all comfortable we do not mind a gale when it is behind us. The Captn once had a gale after him all the way from the Cape to Sydney. Saturday 28th Wind changeable and light very cold with much rain – can scarcely imagine this to be the very heat of summer at home while we are so cold – the thermometer down to the freezing point. Sunday 29th A lovely morning the sun shining finer and pleasant – all seemed to participate in the brightness of the day – for every face looking smiling and we walked the deck – [Page 115] Monday 30th As wretched a day as yesterday was fine – a constant pouring rain – and the wind shifted the sea came on our side which gave us rolls for breakfast. Tuesday 31st Lat 42.00 long 84.34 S. A gloomy morning but likely to clear up. By observation the morning we are as above leaving us only 61 degrees to the nearest point of Van Dieman’s Land so I hope by Saturday fortnight to see Hobart Town. To cold today that I was obliged to run about the decks to keep my feet warm – I also go aloft the exercise makes me warm and I also like the motion I have entirely got over the feeling of giddiness which I felt when I first tried it. The weather at 6pm looked as if we should have a frost but the Barometer falling indicates a change of wind on an increase. Mrs Wright an old lady at 60, the mother of Ms Bishton & Mr Wright, is the next passenger. She is rather thin about middle height and for so old a lady extremely particular in her person and precise in her behaviour. She is rather testy especially with Mr B – abt little affairs – she spends about 4 times a day dressing and undressing about as much as her meals and by the bye her appetite like that of her son’s is excellent – nothing comes amiss



[Page 116] She seems wedded to an old leghorn bonnet and a cross barred cotton gown which she continually wears and has worn thro’ the coldest of the weather. Mr B is constantly teasing her abt it but she still sticks to it – she wears her lorgnette and gloves at meals also I suppose as she is so long in her cabin getting to bed she does take it off at night – she said the heat was “beyond every thing”, so she said of the cold and so she says of every thing – I nearly offended her by telling her she had so many things beyond every thing that her comparison was of little value. She is very polite and obliging to your face but when your back is turned she changes her tone marvellously. I think her very future for where there is so great profession I have decidedly found the least sincerity. She calls her son by such sweet names as “my love” &c and so little does she mean by it that she one day called the mate her love and sometimes other - this often occurs very ridiculously. [Page 117] Wednesday 1st Augst This morning about 5 was awoken by a heavy fall of Rail – I never witnessed anything equal to it. The Captain went upon deck and soon after the wind blew quite a hurricane, the ship rolling fearfully and the sea breaking over continually. I felt apprehensive for the safety of the rudder which had received severe injury in the former gale – to be without a rudder in such a gale would be indeed an awful predicament. At 6 again awoke – (for I had dozed of[f] it seems) by Mrs Lister in the greatest excitement calling me to go upon deck and see if I could be of any service as the rudder was fixt and would not work and they could not take in sails. It is not easy to describe my feelings at that moment being scarcely awake, yet enough so to remember the weak state of the rudder and in my mind I now fancied it was carried away – that is broken – I went up on deck instantly and found all in confusion, hen coops all adrift beating about the deck, ropes &c strewed in all directions leaving no room to step without getting over something or other – which with the hail that had fallen lying thick rendered it dangerous. [Page 118] My first step was to ascertain the state of the rudder and looking towards it I saw the Captn on one side and a sailor on the other of the [indecipherable] working it & which satisfied me and I ran down to tell the ladies and again went up on deck – I had scarcely got up again when the rudder again jammed (which was what had happened before) and it could not be worked so the ships head came up into the wind “broached to” as the sailors call it and all the sails were flapping and dashing against the master dreadfully. Two men had been aloft trying to furl the main top gallant sail but were obliged to come down without doing it, their hands being numbed with the extreme cold. They could not hold on – the sails continued to beat more violently and the ships side now lying towards the sea, it beat over us constantly and I believe most thought all was lost – the noise was appalling, the masts shaking like boughs of trees in the wind – and the only chance now was to start by hauling round the fore sails to do this there were no hands as some were trying to free the rudder and others layed up with the cold. The carpenter and myself however pulled away and we brought her head right again just as they had cleared the rudder chain. [Page 119] We expected every sail would go to [indecipherable] but fortunately only the main top gallant sail went and that did all to shivers in a minute. The Carpenter before she righted said to me if her head does not come round soon every mast would be blown out of her. We were now again relieved from our fears & really assured as if all danger was past. The ship flew thro the water like lightning. The wind sometimes abating and then again increasing to a hurricane – the sound of it in the rigging is like the roar of the wild beasts in a menagerie at feeding time or the escape of steam from the boiler of a large steam engine when the steam is up at the highest pressure. We continued scudding before the gale which was increased by frequent and violent squalls and as we were going in the right direction at a spanking pace it in some measure makes up for our uneasiness. Towards noon the Barometer fell 3 tenths and with it the wind abated – but it had not yet ceased for with the night again came squalls with hail tho not so violent or frequent as in the morning – we retired early to bed and I believe all slept pretty well. During the fright of the morning Emily went to bed with Mrs Fowles



thinking company no doubt made them more secure. [Page 120] Thursday 2nd August Lat 42.18 Found every thing this morning much the same as yesterday, the wind violent with squall, many of which were seen to pass us on each side without affecting us – The Barometer again began to descend and had now fallen as low as 29 – and the wind again increased. Dinner yesterday and today went off as usual – some losing their knives and forks, some receiving the contents of their plates into their laps with various and sundry mishaps yesterday we had salmon – boiled beef and roast goose with jam rolls afterwards; today roast fowl boiled pork and gooseberry puddings – so we are not neglected even in the worst of weather. After dinner speaking of the dangers of being without a rudder – when as if to frighten us to death the Mate shouted from the deck to the Captn below “the rudder chain is carried away”. We were soon upon deck – the power of steering was lost for a few minutes & the chain was repaired. Emily slept with Mrs F as like all the rest she was very much alarmed- and could not sleep alone. I must say in justice to the Ladies they behaved manfully suppressing all their emotions and remaining [Page 121] quiet thro’ it all, Mrs Lister (who is determined to make the worst of every thing) of course [indecipherable]. Friday 3rd The Monday looked now fine, the wind less, the sea more smooth, the Barometer still low, very low only 29. The squalls are frequent and heavy and with them generally hail or rain in torrents which keeps down the sea. The barometer fell still lower being the lowest ever remembered by the Captain except once when he experienced a violent gale which laster several days. Saturday 4th The depression of the barometer has not been answered with an increase of wind as usual. (I think the dampness of the atmosphere is the cause) – but it has so fallen off as not to be sufficient to keep the ship steady and we have consequently had a rolling night scarcely able to keep in bed. Sunday 5th lat 42.24 long 103.30. The morning fine but occasional squalls with hail – I have been upon deck trying to get fresh air for the rolling of the ship has stirred up the bilge water which makes a horrid stench below in the cabin with the doors closed it is quite insufferable. [Page 122] Service was performed today without any mention being made of our late deliverance. Monday August 6 lat 42.16 long 107.3 - E Full moon last night and with it we seem to have got a change of weather. We are all now conjecturing about the time of our arrival I make it for next Saturday or Sunday week allowing for all changes. The barometer continued rising all the morning – but again fell afternoon and by dinner time the wind was fresh & being more on the quarter it kept the ship nice and steady some felt timid expecting another gale but for myself as long as we are able to keep the proper course I care not how fast we go. Tuesday 7th lat 42.47 The wind has again left us and with a very heavy sea which makes the motion very disagreeable. The sun shines briefly and it has drawn all from their cabins upon deck indeed after its having been deserted so long it now looks like “a fair day aye & more than that”. This is Mr Woods birthday and after dinner I proposed his health which was drunk by [Page 123] all cordially wishing him many happy returns and upsetting he was not with us to amuse us and by his frolics to drive away many of the tedious hours of ennui we experience Went to bed at 10 hoping for a better night than I have lately spent Wednesday 8th lat 43.0 Mrs F poorly – the motion disagreeable the wind being dead foul and very strong and we are



obliged to be close hauled. Thursday 9th Very wet and rainy all day as well as cold scarcely any one able to get out of the cabins. Friday 10 Busy writing the manifest of the voyage from the Captain. All sails set and wind more fair. Saturday 11th In the night wind increased and when I came upon deck found the topsails close reefed and the foresail also reefed and almost lying to again. Two of the men while reefing the main topsail quarrelled and fought up there standing upon the footrope – rather a queer place I guess. [Page 124] Emily poorly gave her medicine which improved her much Sunday 12th lat. 44.4 long 126.17 After a squally night we have a fine morning with a fair wind going 8 knots. Emily Better – her Brother Robert’s birthday whose health was drank in Champagne. For dinner roast ducks, boiled mutton – carrots, potatoes, damson & greengage puddings pretty well I think and within a week of our journeys end – only think of potatoes in August. Monday 13th Still fine and fair wind – I have thought we should see Hobart Town Friday – Captn says Tuesday-Week – which is his birthday. Tuesday 14th Writing this log from the original and copying the sketches – by the bye talking of sketches I had nearly forgotten my sketches of the passengers – but as we have had such rough weather I take it as an excuse and if fine tomorrow will resume. The wind has fallen off to a dead calm and consequently down go my hopes of Friday. [Page 125] Wednesday 15th lat 43.24. long 133.00 S - Very fine and smooth sea going 6 knots – without motion. Mr Bishton is a man apparently 43 – fat and would be tall if he did not stoop – he is very awkward, turns on his toes as he walks – one of his eye lids is dropped drown so one eye appears larger than the other – is near sighted and to finish all has carrotty hair. He has been educated for the bar at which he has practised a little his relatives. as well (as himself has been) are people of property but unfortunately by extravagance & mismanagement in some way or other he has unfortunately run out of it – and is now going out to Van Diemans Land to avoid his old associates – and having joined the Church and given up his original profession expects to get a good living. He is like most men brought up idly extremely so he does nothing not even for himself or children tho’ Mrs B has no servant – I think him extremely selfish and this renders him very disagreeable – at dinner he will not allow any one to help him to potatoes but must have the dish handed to him to select what he considers best heedless of the ladies who may be sitting near him [Page 126] He never hands anything or offers to help any one but keeps picking away as if he expected the coach at the door every minute. He never allows any one time an opportunity of speaking but has it all his own way, except at meal times and then he never opens his mouth but to put something in it or to ask for something he may want. He has afforded us much amusement by teasing one and another – with much good humour. Mrs B is a little woman extremely fair complexion and rather a sweet expression tho’ wanting in colour. She looks very good tempered & kind but our experience has told us all are not to be taken by their looks for altho’ she makes great profession of religion and is always reading her bible she is nearly every other time quarrelling with her husband and will always have the last word – She has an extraordinary appetite eats much more than I do and drinks to by the bye Mr B says she drinks 2 tumblers of bottled porter with her dinner besides several glasses of wine after and it is her general custom to lie down after dinner which enables her to sit up till 12 or 1 and not infrequently 2 o clock quarrelling with Mr B to the great annoyance of all,



then of course she must have her breakfast in bed and also the poor children are kept in bed [Page 127] ‘till their mother gets up. Thursday 16 August lat 43.41 long 137.15 Fine day throughout like spring weather, going about 7 knots with scarcely any motion – every one anxiously expecting the sight of land which we now hope to see on Saturday. All day busy for the Captn. Friday 17th lat 43.41 long 140.50 The same fine sun shining day it was yesterday - I have been making a packing case & filled it ready for leaving the ship. In expectation of seeing land the sailors have been engaged getting the anchor over the ships side ready - it is not easy to imagine the interest all feel as we approach land after so long a voyage – yet it is not that we are tired of the ship for I believe we are as comfortable and happy as it is possible to be in a state of idleness – which does not seem to annoy many of our passengers. Saturday 18th We are going very slowly all night and fear if the breeze does not freshen we shall not see land tonight as expected yesterday it is very [indecipherable] so near land and not [indecipherable] to make it [Page 128] Sunday 19th Up early this morning and at the mast head looking out for land & which I fancied I saw just before I went to breakfast and after breakfast I found I was right, it proved to be the S.W – point of Van Diemans Land and appeared abt 20 miles ahead – we neared it all day but as the evening came on it grew hazy and we lost sight of it. To what perfection is the science of navigation now brought that we should after not seeing land for near 3 months run direct to the exact spot required. Monday 20th Called before daylight by the Captain to see the land as it was alongside of us and as the day broke the Mewstone an immense rock of the south coast was visible [This page contains a sketch of The Mewstone]. [Page 129] A sail seen yesterday right astern supposed that we passed her in the night was till there evidently going to Hobart Town and following us – The wind was scarcely enough to move us and the black fish, a kind of small whale, were playing about us quite in shoals – by noon the breeze freshened and we glided on with stud’g sails set and were afforded a fine view of the south coast and islands we also passed the rocks called Pedro Blanca in English Peter White – it resembles a fort and near it is a rock which at a distance resembles the Eddystone light house and from which it is called the Eddystone – between these two there is a reef of sunken rocks and from the main top I could see the breakers upon it several vessels have been lost upon the rocks round this part. [This page contains a sketch of Eddystone and Pedro Blanca.] [Page 130] We now came in sight of Cape Benney and before dinner at about 5 PM Cape Tasman after dinner the light on the point of Bernie was seen very brilliant – at about 7 we rounded Tasmans Head the light was lost and we expected to meet with a pilot so that by midnight we should have reached Hobart Town – at 10 a light was hoisted at the mast head the signal for the pilot and the gun also was fired every half hour but without effect – so we lay to till the morning – as it was very hazy. Tuesday 21st At four I came upon deck Cape Roual was on our Starboard side and the north point above Adventure Bay ahead. it became very interesting as the day dawned to near the bold rugged coast.



At 7 I could see small patches of snow as it appeared – but by the use of my glass I found them to be cottages or huts the first habitation we had for some time seen and the first in the colony seen from the ship – I continued looking at it as I could scarcely credit the residence of a human being in a place so completely covered with wood however I soon found in [indecipherable] so far I saw a man and in a small field cleared out of the forest a horse or cow [Page 131] The land appears entirely covered with wood and the trees have a most singular appearance like umbels – the tops growing upon long stalks like bunches of carrot seed and all have a deep green colour almost an olive. A little beyond the cottages first seen we now discovered smoke curling sweetly up among the trees and this reminded me of the country cottages in the woods I have often seen in England. A boat was now seen putting off from the shore and which we soon found to be the Pilot as he was on board in a few minutes – he told us of the arrival of several vessels and lots of news in a short time. We were now in Storm Bay and the wind very light and that contrary but we contrived to work up tho’ almost becalmed. The Derwent is a splendid river as far as I have seen of it – in its course it forms several bays which are surrounded by the most exquisite scenery. – Mr B who has travelled thro Italy Germany and Switzerland says this surpasses all he had even seen and that fact with Mount Wellington at its back covered with the purest snow, he says resembles very much the Duca – this Mountain is always covered with snow being 4,000 feet above the level of the sea. [Page 132] The river I should say as far as Hobart Town is quite as wide as the Thames but the current is very gentle. We continued gradually opening on fresh [indecipherable] trees as we advanced up the river which seemed to have no end as the bays all looked like rivers – it began to rain and this with a thick haze nearly obscured everything from our view – till at last the anchor was dropped in the stream. The Town is built at the head of a bay or rather elbow of the river and extending backwards up the side of Mount Wellington and crossing a great deal of ground as it is laid out into streets and these are not built but here and there a house except a few which are finished & very excellent houses these are some of them . But I am describing the place before I have arrived that is in my log – I said we came to another and then the Port officer Captn King – Myself and the Captn went ashore – there were several ships lying at the different wharfs among which were the Wave the Captains old ship and the Wilmot which left the downs the same day we did. The Wave made an excellent passage out being little more than 3 months touching at the Cape of Good Hope from whence here they [Page 133] did in 35 days – I went with the Captn to his agents where we were obliged to remain all the afternoon as it rained in torrents. Next day I took Mrs F and Emily to see the Town and deliver letters &c which I had brought in doing which we saw the whole of the town. The streets are wide and straight and all being parallel to each other forming squares. The roads are made with granite and are as firm as those in the neighbourhood of Bristol or London. Macquarie Street runs North and South about what seemed to us 2 miles far we had to go from one end to the other and not having lately walked much made it appear much longer than in reality it is being little more than a mile. In this street is the Government house of rather a poor description but in a garden surrounded by a hedge of geraniums in full blossom – which together with the wall flowers and a great variety of English plants made us feel quite at home. The houses in this street for the most part are detached and have gardens round them and it is very like the Bath road at Cheltenham but the houses not so good – we now wandered into Elizabeth St where are some excellent shops and ones I observed Tiggs the bookseller. [Page 134] I went in and found the young man knew Mr Williams of the Cheltenham very well we had a long chat – we called on Mr Crowther Longman who was out Mrs C was extremely kind and



polite offered us any thing we could take and gave us a good quantity of apples quite a treat – they are selling here 3/- dozen Mr C is the brother of Mrs Cockle with whom Miss Coldstone his living he has been in the colony, many years and never heard from his sister So our news was very acceptable. We next called on Mrs Household the sister of Mrs Cain and found them well – they give a very bad account of the Colony indeed all seem to complain of the want of money. A Gentleman of extensive business connexion told me he had some of the finest Madiera wine invoiced to him two years since at 50/- Doz for which he would not take 20/- and many other things in like proportion. This has driven many speculative men to Port Philip and South Australia as they cannot do any good at Hobart Town. We now saw the Soldiers exercised upon a hill near the town having a fine & extensive view of the harbour town and surrounding country – then into a Pastry cook where the Bath buns and Banbury cakes were just as at home – then returned to the Ship – [Page 135] The whale fishery is now the principal trade of Hobart Town – and as it is carried on at so little expense compared with what it used to be where a ship was fitted up for a voyage of 3 or 4 years – here they only erect boiling houses on the shore and send out boats to strike the whale and haul it into the shore where it is cut up – 4000 tons of oil was last year sent to London. Thursday 23rd I again went on shore with the Captn to get his papers from the Customs House We also called on the Bishtons at their lodgings which were very good and cheap a large parlour well furnished with two bed rooms and waited upon for 30/- week. They seemed to feel leaving the ship very much and tho’ we may say we missed them we certainly did not regret the loss. We returned to the ship and at about ½ past three we were again under way the Wilmot - was off about an hour before us for Sydney also. and as some of their men had been onboard our ship cracking about her sailing our sailors felt anxious that we might beat them but this I did not expect as she had discharged nearly all her cargo – [Page 136] and was in much better trim than our ship they walked away from us and before night time lost to our view – The wind was due North which sent us out of the River & Storm Bay well before night but when out at sea we had to beat up the wind being right a head and very fresh with a good sea on Friday 24th Off Cape Pillar still beating up – a Barque on the same tack as ourselves found it was the Isabella that had left the day before us and was going to Newcastle. We continued in sight of land all day and at night the wind fell of to a calm and afterwards freshened from the Westward Saturday 25th A fine day and the ship going nicely thru’ the water with the wind free – Sunday 26 lat 40.10 The Barque still in sight and the ship continues as yesterday. should it last we shall see Sydney – Tuesday – We are now off Bass's Straits and see a sail going to Southward – [Page 137] Monday 27th August. A most lovely morning – The coast of New Holland – about [indecipherable] Head & Cape House – distant about 20 miles. Tuesday 28 Wednesday 29th The wind foul but weather fine and indeed charming – we are got out from the land so far as not to be able to see land. Thursday 30th The wind continued as yesterday till 3 PM when it suddenly changed to fair and we are going sweetly – in the evening however we had a violent storm of Thunder and lightning with Hail – we are now under close reefed topsails & but half an hour before we had the studding sails all set – the sky looking very wild as if we should have a gale but it gradually subsided – A man was ordered up to the fore top gallant mast head to look out for the light on Sydney



heads – as it can be seen 30 miles – in clear weather – I was upon deck nearly all night looking out very anxiously for the light and at about 2 in the morning it was first seen [Page 138] Friday 31st August and last day of the voyage – The morning was dark & the light shone very brilliant – I continued looking at it till day light by which we were in near land opposite Botany Bay. The coast is very bold and like the English coast, the swell was very great tho the wind was light – a head of us was a sail which we took to be the Wilmot, we neared it fast and about 7 o clock I found it was a Brig. We were admiring the spray beating up the rocks and the handsome light house upon the rocks when the Pilot boat pulled alongside he was soon on deck and in command – he told us the Wilmot he had taken in at 11 o clock last night and also the Arachue & Despatch had arrived from England yesterday and other news of the day. The brig ahead was the old Black Joke so notorious a fast sailor at Plymouth, she was originally a slaver but now trades to Launceston – Van Diemans Land – The Pilots flag and signal remaining from whence we were was hoisted & instantly answered at the signal stations as well as our number so that it was known at Sydney hours before we were there – we entered the heads at abt 8 o clock and on the first tack went to windward [Page 139] of the Black Joke – but she continued to beat us a quarter of an hour or so – The entrance to Port Jackson is very fine on either side are bays opening and disclosing the country covered with trees beautifully green and now and then a house – the residences of Merchants – some of them are splendid mansions and the situation of them is truly exquisite – Clearing a point we now see the windmills and near them the houses at Wooloomooloo which is the “west-end” of Sydney – tho to the Eastward – a little further and Sydney opens – to view; the shipping in the Port and altogether at a distance looks quite enchanting – We passed Garden Island which is indeed like a Garden – then Pinchgut a barren rock in the middle of the stream near it were anchored the Aruchue and Wilmot the latter of which gave us three cheers as we passed her – we brought up and came to anchor about 11 o clock in Sydney Cove - Our decks were soon covered with the friends of passengers expected; and also of the Captain. I had none so I took my glass and gazed around at the scenery – near us lay H.M.S. Alligator also the Beagle & Brittomart – and Merchantmen innumerable – I did not expect to see [Page 140] a tithe the number the Cove was literally all alive with boats &c plying to a fee. Sydney is built upon a promontory jutting out into the water of Port Jackson there is a sufficient depth to float the largest ship close in shore – I felt myself (in the midst of all this bustle) an oppression which you will wonder at, nearly every one seemed in good I may say excellent spirits, but I felt the weight of my responsibility in providing an honest living, - and the difficulties that always surround a new settler from his ignorance I also felt that I was about to leave the ship where I had been so comfortable and go and encounter hardships and privations perhaps I had never before dreamt of – I looked here and there and every thing seemed alike in different to me – when an object caught my eyes which entirely changed the current of my thoughts and I seemed as much in spirits as the rest – it was the recognition of Mr F Morris with another gentleman walking near Macquarie fort I looked thru my glass and was convinced it was him I then jumped into a boat but before I could reach the shore I had lost sight of him. I wandered all about looking out for him [Page 141] [A rectangular plan of the Burial Grounds and streets is shown.] [Page 142 blank] [Page 143] and inquiring but for some time to see [indecipherable] at length I found he lived in Bridge Street where I instantly went – I found him at home – I need scarcely say he was as much delighted to see me as I him. Mrs Morris also was very much pleased to hear of Mrs F being on board – she therefore instantly went with us to the ship where we left her with Mrs F & Emily whilst Mr Morris and myself went in quest of lodgings – we scoured the town but found



none to suit in any way at length I determined to take Mr & Mrs]. Drawing room and bed room behind whither we had our things conveyed. Mrs M remained on board till evening and we did not leave the ship till the next day – I have now finished but I perceive that I have omitted any account of the other passengers. In the Intermediate Steerage were Mr & Mrs Pearse and four children – a most excellent man a farmer from Plymouth. Mrs Alger & two sons – the eldest abt seventeen a very interesting young man. These passengers have the same fare as the steerage with two fresh meals a week, a bottle of Porter or Ale & same of wine. [Page 144] In the Steerage were a Mr Shepherd a clerk had been in an office in London. Mr Bennett and 4 children – and a man & woman the servants of Mr Pearse – there were also in the intermediate which I have omitted. Mrs Lions a Jewess & her daughter going out in quest of her husband – and a boy & girl about 14 each under the care of the Capt to friends in the Colony: Thus we had in the cabin 10) intermediate 11) passengers steerage 8) Captn & Mrs Lister 2 Chief & Second Mate 2 Crew men & boys 20 in all 53 persons [Page 145] I have finished my journal to Sydney but as it may not be uninteresting to my friends who may see this I shall just give a few lines of my first steps in the Colony. I first then enquired as to land where to be got etc – when Mr Morris informed me that he had been to see a small farm about 6 miles from Sydney and he thought it might do for me – accordingly on the next Tuesday I with Mrs F, Emily & Mr Morris went up to see it & we were all enchanted with it at first sight but upon examination I found a great part of the land was so very rocky as to be useless tho’ the rest appeared excellent – after a very pleasant day we returned to Sydney and on the next day I consulted Captn Livingstone a Gentleman of great kindness and also of some experience, having been 16 years here – he said after going up with me that he thought he could find many places where I might do much better altho’ he had little doubt of my succeeding here. He told me of a mill up the Williams River when a great trade had been done but the man did not understand it and consequently the place had got very much out of order that it was for sale and I thought [Page 146] it might be bought a bargain – accordingly not wishing to loose time on Thursday evening I got into the “Tamar” Steam Packet and left Sydney 8 PM – we contained our course till near the heads when finding a fresh wind ahead and likely to increase we came to anchor in Watsons Bay inside the heads till it might abate. Truly characteristic of the Colony we had a very violent night of thunder, lightning & rain which subsided before morning – at about 4PM we again got our anchor up and prepared to face the swell the wind had left we were till 2 PM before we reached Newcastle a distance about 70 miles by the sea and by the time things were discharged here & we were ready again to go it was 3 o’clock. The entrance to Newcastle which is just at the mouth of the Hunter is very dangerous a shoal of stones, sand &c extends from the main land to a sort of Island or Rock and over this appears to be the true channel but it goes round thro' a very narrow passage with shoal on one side & rocks on the other at Newcastle the water spreads out wide and is consequently shallow and after leaving Newcastle about ½ an hour we stuck upon the flats which we could not get over and were obliged as the tide had about 2 hours to ebb to [Page 147] wait till it should again rise high enough to float us over – I was much amused by the numbers of Pelicans & Cranes of immense size fishing in the river – I have never seen any in the



shows – half so large the cranes I should say some were 4 ft to the top of the back standing at about 7 we got afloat and by dint of urging the steam to its uttermost power we were dragged over and went on up the river. Upon deck were several horses – a cow etc and these poor creatures had nothing to eat since they left Sydney – it is usual to arrive early in the morning at the Green hills. I was so worn out by the excitement and bother that I went to bed and soon fell asleep and hoped to wake at the end of my journey – but at about 10 o’clock I went again upon deck and found that the main shaft of the engines was broken and therefore it could not be used – we had now about 1 hour more flood tide in our favour and with the boat a head towing we contrived to get to a place about 15 miles from our destination called Raymond's Terrace – Our lengthened passage, had expended all our provision and the inn here had nothing to offer us. As the steamer must wait till the next from Sydney arrived to tow us up – I determined together with Captn Hudson (the brother of my fellow passenger) and [Page 148] two others to go on in the boat which was to be despatched with the mail bags – after a dreary pull for two hours we arrived at Hinton my destination and walked off to the house of my friend, Mr D. Captn Hudson lives in the farm adjoining and therefore conducts me to the house, thro’ the bush in safety – we called at the side of a log hut (made by slabs put side by side driven into the ground and leaving openings thro’ which you might put your arm easily) – and were answered by a man who directed us to call at the next hut to Jacky. We did so and Jacky in his shirt came out and took me to the door of Mr D's house. I soon gained admittance and a man who had been sleeping on a bed laid upon the ground by the fire – soon made a good fire and I was ushered into the master’s apartment – here was a fire tho’ 2 o’clock in the night and in a corner near it was a stretcher for a bedstead. The overseers wife got up and made me tea which was very refreshing and afterwards I went to bed upon the stretcher and my friend lay down upon the floor wrapped in a blanket. In the morning we got our breakfast, ordered our horses and set off to see the mill in question. We called upon the Surgeon who also accompanied us – he is a young man from [indecipherable] & tho’ not known to me he knows many with [Page 149] whom I am well acquainted – our journey was thro’ the bush about 16 miles and I only wonder how any one could find their way for there is not the slightest track in some parts for a long way, we however arrived at Clarence Town in 4 hours and called upon a friend of Mr D’s – he was out but we put our horses into a yard, fed them with cobs of maize and were just getting a crust of bread the only thing left in the way comestable when the mistress returned and we were soon made very comfortable – we went to see the object of my visit and found it the most wretched affair I ever beheld and yet for this the proprietor asks 900 £ the house is a log hut and you may see into it from any part; the cracks left between the rough hewn logs being wide enough to put your arm thro’ – the mill had only one pair of stones and all the machinery so worn out as to require all new and to crown all the floods are so high as to completely cover the building. I of course determined at once to think no more about it – we returned to Mr Hilliers and sat down and by the time we had tea it had grown so dark that I protested against going back that night [Page 150] altho’ the Doctor and Mr D wished to return we stayed and after breakfast in the morning went back. This Clarence Town built at the head of the navigation of the Williams River – consists of about ½ a dozen huts where it is quite impossible to buy anything either to eat or drink. We reached Hinton safely about noon and after dinner walked to see estates in the vicinity – the land is excellent I cannot say as much for the houses all are alike miserable in the extreme to a new settler. On Monday morning I ran across to the river to meet the Steamer which had left the place I ought to have been at and succeeded in getting on board – almost too late. Going down the river I saw upon the bank a tribe of natives, most of them in a state of perfect nudity, other women with an old blanket throw over their shoulders – some were fishing, others with their spears killing birds – at which they are very expert -. It seemed to me an unfortunate time I had chosen for this steamer instead of reaching Sydney by 8 in the evening did not on this occasion till 9 next morning we had a very rough night and about 12 o’clock the



Captn would have put back to Newcastle but for my advice. [Page 151] I was for some time trying to get into a position which for a time would provide me with an income till I might find something – to my mind – but after repeated delays I gave it up and took the Figtree Farm which I first look at – it consists of 110 acres – a house in the rough and two cottages for the men also unfinished – the garden 6 acres in cultivation is facing the North East in a quitte declivity and extends down to the water which is a cove running into Port Jackson the tide flows 5 miles above us, so we have plenty of sea fish and the rocks are covered with oysters, this water is also very useful affording me a cheap conveyance for whatever we have to send and as there is no road without crossing the water we always go to Sydney in a boat. I find it quite a luxury also to bathe in. My intention is to supply the market with vegetables for which the land is well adapted and they are also very dear as there is so little land near Sydney good enough and those who have it, do not take the trouble to cultivate it – cabbages have been 1/- each since I have been here – peas are now 4/- a peck – strawberries 4/- a quart and all things in proportion. I shall next year have near a ¼ of an acre of strawberries and by [Page 152] March we shall have plenty of ripe grapes – the garden has been laid out before I came and planted with all kinds of fruit trees – here are pears, apples, plums, apricots, peaches, quinces, lemons oranges and all except the two latter are in full bearing – the vines are planted along the sides of the paths and are laden with very fine fruit. I should say I shall have ½ a ton of grapes and if ripe early will sell at 2/- [indecipherable] – peaches too are heavily laden – they grow here as indeed do all the fruit trees like the apple in England not against a wall but standing by themselves and most of them are very pretty shaped tree. I have also a great quantity of wood on the land which we cut and send to Sydney & for which I get 5/- per ton – the boat I have takes 5 tons at a time – two men cut and 1 in the boat takes 4 loads a week – and we get paid every Saturday this keeps the pot boiling whilst the vegetables are growing. I pay for this[indecipherable]£ per annum and have a man given me into the bargain – I have taken it for three years with a condition that I can leave at the end of either year by giving 6 months notice and also can purchase for ₤500 at any time in the period if I should feel disposed so to do. [Page 153] [A full-page sketches of the house and land surrounding it.] [Page 154 blank] [Page 155] Wood-boat returning from & my boat going to Sydney [Page 156 blank] [Page 157] I have endeavoured to sketch the House & cottages under the Fig tree (from which the farm takes its name) and garden but it looks a much prettier place than I have made it. I have also sketc[h]ed the wood to it and the little boat I sail in – she is a regular clipper having won a prize at the Regatta at Sydney – she is only 15ft long and 5½ft beam this enables her to carry so much sail – she has 5cwt of pig iron in her for ballast. We are except the wood men very busy in the garden, all things are looking well – there had been previous to my arrival 3 months without rain and for the next 2 after my arrival it only rained one evening a violent thunderstorm. Since however we have to be thankful for a succession of fine showers causing everything to spring up and flourish. The variableness of this climate is very great and sudden. I have seen the thermometer fall 5 degrees in 10 minutes in the shade and one day I remarked that it was 60 in the morning, 110 at noon and again to 60 in the evening and yet we do not feel it as we do a change half as great in England.



[Page 158] Altho each day it is above 80o yet we can always bear a fire in the evening which will appear strange no doubt. The thunder & lightning here is very awful & comes on so suddenly that it is difficult to avoid being caught. The hot winds are another nuisance and I understand are very frequent in the summer. I have experienced several and found them all they had been represented. They blow from the NW and are supposed to be caused by passing over large forests on fire – they continue for hours and are generally succeeded by a SE wind which is altogether as cold and both are violent almost hurricanes – during the hot winds people shut up all the doors & windows the air then feels like being in a glass house before the mouth of the oven – the therm frequently stands 120% while it lasts. The wood or as they are called “bush fires” look fearful especially when they come near to houses. I have seen acres all in a blaze at a time and as the wind carries it, it spreads over miles of country – the greater part of which is covered with wood – [Page 159] In walking thro the bush the first thing that struck me was that the barks of nearly all the large trees are charred and look black & here and there a large tree upon the ground evidently having fallen by being burnt off at the bottom. There is the stump of one in the garden 10ft in diameter – most of the large trees are rotten at heart and consequently fit for nothing but fire for which they are used – cedar grows very fine and sound in different parts but we have none here – it is used as generally as deal at home as it works easily and furniture made of it, few would distinguish from the best Mahogany. The seasons here are the opposite of those in England, it being midsummer here at Xmas indeed in most things as regards climate it is the opposite for the Sun is north at noon – the North is the hot & the South the cold wind – the east the most healthy & the west the reverse – the barometer is said to rise before bad and fall before fine weather. To these diversities may be added the swans are black – the eagles white – the cod fish is found in rivers & perch in the sea, the vallies are cold & mountain tops warm – the trees shed their bark annually instead of their leaves [Page 160] I have read that the native flowers are without scent which I can contradict as my farm abounds with some very beautiful ones especially the Lily (Doryanthis excelsa) bearing a most splendid crimson flower. We have others also very sweet and fine. The birds are said to be without song – which is not true for her is one which sings like our thrush in spring and many that make a chirping noise but I must admit the squawk and clatter of the parrots predominates which resembles the talk of those educated. Insects are numerous of all kinds, ants are immense. I have seen a mound 4ft high & 5 or 6ft diameter at the base, the insects being full an inch long – spiders are very large also, they look like crabs. I have seen them 2 inches. Locusts a large caterpillar or like the May Beatle but as large as half a dozen – makes a noise in the bush (in the hot sun shine so loud that you can scarcely hear anything else – it is not unlike the buz of the hurdy gurdy the Italian boys carry about the streets at home but louder by having thousands playing round you they however do no injury. [Page 161] Grasshoppers I have seen 3 inches long. Mosquitoes & fleas as well as bugs & flies are the pest of the colony – we have plenty of the two former – but we are not annoyed with the two latter and the mosquitoes have not bitten us as they have many of my acquaintance in Sydney which is the more astonishing as the abound near water and trees. Reptiles are in some parts very numerous, we have a lizard about 6 inches in numbers running around the garden but are quite harmless looking like a stick. Snakes are not often seen near us tho' the man saw one in the stable behind the house about 8 ft long which has not been seen since by any of us. Fish are numerous in the water below our garden. I have seen porpoises up here several times playing and gamboling. I also saw some black fish ( a kind of whale) one day going to Sydney in the boat – and the sperm whale is often taken just out of Sydney heads – the flavour of all the fish I have eaten is [Page 162] very indifferent. The meat here is very good and considering the drought, cheap. I pay for mutton & beef 4½



- pork 8 ½ veal 7 ¼ and english bacon 1/- lb. Cheese and butter has been very dear English salt butter of 1837 selling here at 4/6 lb stail and fresh butter at 5/- - english cheese 2/- & colonial 1/- which is little better than Dutch being very hard dry & insipid. I may here suggest to any one coming out that provisions are always a certain profitable article to speculate in as butter, cheese, bacon, Spirits, Porter etc.- and to those intending to go to farming bring agriculture implements as a plough for which you would pay 2£.10 in England would cost 10£ here – also bring several pairs of wheels to make drays with they ask for a pair of clumsy colonial made over 6£. And all articles of furniture if near London had better be brought as the freight here would be much less than the difference in value – crockery ware is very dear here they sell blue dinner plates 10/- dozen and other things in a like proportion. [Page 163 blank] [Page 164 blank] [Page 165] “A” This is the diary promised to me. Henry [indecipherable] and marked with the letter A mentioned and referred to in the affidavit of the said Henry [indecipherable] sworn the 27th day of November A D 1925 at Sydney before me [indecipherable] JP [Transcribed by Ray King, Margaret Broadfoot, Allanah Jarman, John Brooker for the State Library of NSW]



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