module 3: body shape &...

POWERFULSM

(831) 625-2000 [email protected] www.powerful-presence.com

©Virtual Style School Copyright 2012 Marion Gellatly

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Identify your body shape...the one you have today

Understand how to use line and design to create the illusion of a balanced body

Recognize clothing styles designed to flatter your shape and proportion

Discover other elements that contribute to a slim-looking you

Be more confident in making selections in the dressing room that are perfect for you now

In this module you will:

Module 3: Body Shape & Fit

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Factors That Influence Which Clothing Styles Suit You Best:

Vertical Body Types

• Your Vertical and Horizontal Body Type

• Your Bone Structure, Scale, Weight and Height

• Your Shoulder Angle and Width

• Your Neck Length and Circumference

• Your Bust Size

• Your Age

• Any Problem Areas, such as Large Bottom, Saddlebags, or a Dowager's Hump

A perfectly vertically-proportioned human body can be divided into 4 equal sections:

• The top of the head to the nipple line (with bra on)

• The nipple line to the hipline (fullest part of the bottom)

• The hipline to the center of the kneecap

• The kneecap to the floor

However, perfectly vertically-proportioned women are few and far between.

Most fall into one of three vertical body types:

The balanced body Long legs, short torso Short legs, long torso• •

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The Balanced Body

Long Legs, Short Torso

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At the hip line, this woman is almost perfectly divided in half. Above and below this halfway point, she has one long and one short segment. The short segments (bust-to-hip and hip-to-knee) are similar in length, as are the long segments (head-to-bust and knee-to-floor).

Basic Dressing Guidelines Include:

Medium to medium-long over blouses, tops and jackets

Waistbandless skirts and pants

Medium to narrow belts

High-placed accessories

Medium to medium-long necklaces, vests and scarves

This woman has legs that are longer than their torso. The distance between the bust line and the hip line is her shortest quarter. Excess weight will be seen first in this region (stomach, midriff, high on back of hips). The aim will be to visibly lengthen the torso to balance the length of the legs.


Crotch-length and longer over blouses, tops and jackets

Low-placed accessories

Skirts and pants without waistbands

Narrow, non-contrasting belts

Dresses that flow through the waistline

Long-line accessories

Low to medium-high heels

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Short Legs, Long TorsoThis woman has a torso/body that is longer than her legs. She tends to have a low, heavy set bottom and excess weight is usually first noticed between the hip line and knees. The aim will be to visibly elongate the legs to balance the long torso while not making the overall body appear shorter.


Short to medium-long tops, blouses, and jackets (bust to knuckle length)

High-placed accessories

Straight and subtle 'A' line skirts rather than flared styles

Hosiery/tights that blend with the shoes and hemline

Waisted, as well as non-waisted, dresses

Slim, tapered or straight pants

Medium to high heels

Narrow to wide belts depending on the individual's bust size, weight, and age

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“While clothes may not make the woman, they certainly have a strong effect on her self-confidence which, I believe, does make the woman.”

—Mary Kay Ashe

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Horizontal Body Types

Hourglass Figure

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Inverted Triangle

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Triangle

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Horizontal body type is determined by the difference in circumference between the bust, waist, and hip. There are 6 recognized female horizontal figure types:

Considered the perfect figure

Proportionally large shoulders, bust, hips—small waist that is 10 inches smaller

Clothing easy to fit and find

Body above the waist largerthan below

Curved upper body, straightlower body

Emphasis on the upper torso

Increase visual width below waist

Most common figure type

Larger below the waist than above

Straight lines above the waist and curved lines below

Shoulder pads her most slimming accessory

Smooth fabrics below waistline

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Rectangle

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Oval

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Diamond

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Little or no waist definition

Body lines appear straight

Illusion of balance achieved withshoulder pads, color blocking, vests,soft fabrics and matching bottoms

Full bodied women

Full, rounded curves

Visual slimming with slightlysquared off shoulder pads

V-necklines, vertical design lines, medium to dark solid colors

Mid-body larger than upper or lower; narrow in the shoulders and hip/thighs with a high hip curve and slim legs

Create definition to inverted triangle to camouflage the waistline

Use neckline accessories, subdue to dark colors, dresses without waistlines, square off pads

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Slimming Techniques

• monochromatically

• Dark neutral colors

• Vertical lines

• horizontal lines

If You’re Short-Waisted . . .

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If You’re Long-Waisted . . .

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Dress (in one color). This produces a strong unbroken vertical line that elongates the body.

make you look thinnest because dark colors absorb light and recede into the background, rather than reflect light and pop out, as lighter and brighter colors do. Dark colors are kinder on the lumps and bumps.

go up and down and since the eye scans vertical lines quickly, your body will appear longer and narrower when clothed in vertical lines of stripes or seams.

Never wear across your widest point - especially your hips, derriere, full bust and broad chest.

You have a shorter upper torso and longer legs. The goal will be to visually lengthen your upper body.

Create vertical and strong diagonal lines above the waist with the use of deep V-necks, shirts open to the waist (over camisoles, tank tops, T-shirts, turtlenecks), long necklaces (26” long), long scarves, and single-breasted jackets.

Wear tops that fall an inch below your waistline or blouson your shirt/blouse out and over your waistline or belt.

Wear your belt slightly below the waistband instead of on it.

Purchase petite sizes for jackets, tops and dresses if they work better for you.

You have a longer upper torso and shorter legs. The goal will be to visually lengthen your legs with these lengthening techniques:

Wear skirts because the eye doesn't discern where the leg begins as easily.

Wear skirts or pants with raised waistlines and midriff yokes.

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If You’re Bottom Heavy . . .

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Avoid cuffs on pants, as they will further shorten the leg.

Use wide belts to raise the waist that blend to the color of your bottom.

Your shoulders and rib cage are quite a bit narrower than your hips and thighs—even at your optimum weight. Extra weight settles below your waist, in your hips, thighs, derriere and sometimes on the legs. Your bust/chest is usually average to small, face and neck are generally slender. The goal will be to either add width to your top, or reduce width to your bottom.

To add width to your top:

Always wear shoulder pads. They should be the right size and shape.

Consider a padded bra to help balance your bust to your hipline.

Wear bateau neck tops.

Wear slightly wider lapels. Horizontal stripes can also add width.

Wear tops/shirts that are looser, rather than tight.

Wear jackets and tops/shirts with set in sleeves.

Consider scarves, shawls or lapel pins. They widen your shoulder and draw attention to the face and away from a wide bottom.

To reduce width of your bottom:

Wear well-tailored, well-cut basic trousers with flat front or with soft, deep pleats that lie flat and fall in slimming vertical lines. If the pleats pull open, they will make you look wider.

Make sure side pockets lie flat, or remove them from skirts and pants for women

Wear pant legs that fall straight from the hips and taper slightly at the ankles.

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If You’re Top Heavy. . .

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You tend to gain weight in the stomach, waist, bust or chest, and upper back. Your waist is usually undefined and your hips may be relatively slim and your derriere flat. The goal will be to visually reduce your top and direct attention to the slimmest parts of your body.

Wear unstructured and soft, fluid designs, or softly semi-tailored garments.

Avoid double-breasted jackets.

Avoid excess detailing and wide collars/lapels. Simple tops/shirts are best.

Remove shoulder pads or use the thinnest ones possible.

Create vertical lines above the waist with the use of V-necks, shawl collars, single-breasted jackets, ties, and open necklines.

Wear narrow legged pants with good drape or boot-leg styles.

Wear a bra that supports and minimizes.

Avoid wide belts.

Other Considerations:

Surface Finish

Matte

Sheen

Shine

Bulk

Fine

Medium

Thick

Color Flow

Solid all Through

Up Outside

Up Inside

Pattern

Large

Medium

Small

Subtle

Obvious Repeat

Complex

Placement

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Focal Points

High

Torso/Waist

Low

Color Value

Light

Medium Light

Medium

Medium Dark

Dark

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25(831) 625-2000 [email protected] www.powerful-presence.com

©Virtual Style School Copyright 2012 Marion Gellatly 25

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