module 5: various pet first aid techniques...• slow capillary refill time ... • insulate them...
TRANSCRIPT
MODULE 5: Various Pet First Aid Techniques
This module teaches you core skills such as how to control blood loss, clean a wound and
bandage injuries.
• 5.1 Treating Shock
o 3.1.1 Signs of Shock
o 3.1.2 What is Shock?
o 3.1.3 Treating Shock
• 5.2 Controlling blood loss
o 3.2.1 Applying Pressure to a Wound
• 5.3 Cleaning wounds
o 3.3.1 Cleaning Bite Wounds or Minor Injuries
• 5.4 Basic nursing
• 5.5 Bandaging
o 3.5.1 Bandaging materials
o 3.5.2 Bandaging techniques
o 3.5.3 Improvised dressings
5.1 Treating Shock
An animal that is injured, in pain, ill, or
even fearful, can go into shock. Indeed,
when an animal is involved in trauma,
such as a traffic collision, the shock may
prove fatal rather than blood loss or
broken bones. This goes to show
the importance of recognizing signs of
shock and then acting swiftly to stabilize
the patient.
Module 3.2.6 also covers the signs shock but given its importance here is a quick recap.
5.1.1 Signs of Shock
• Mental confusion or decreased alertness
• The patient seems weak and / or loss of consciousness
• A low body temperature (check for cold paws)
• A weak, rapid pulse
• Slow capillary refill time (more than 2 seconds)
• Rapid shallow breathing or abnormally slow breathing.
• Pale gums with a slow capillary refill time
• Dilated pupils
5.1.2 What is Shock?
Shock is the body’s attempt to protect the major organs from oxygen deprivation in the face
of circulatory collapse. To do this the body closes down none vital blood vessels such as
those supplying the skin, extremities and gut, in order to prioritize the blood supply to the
brain, heart, and lungs.
Physical evidence of this is the patient feels cold to the touch (the circulation to their skin and
paws has shut down), and their gums have a slow capillary refill time (more than 2 seconds).
Type Cause Effect
Traumatic shock Falling from a height, Being hit by a
car, A kick from a horse
The trauma causes internal or external
bleeding, which reduces blood pressure.
In addition, the patient is also in pain,
which can trigger a reaction of shock.
Anaphylactic shock
A sting or bite from something the
patient is allergic to such as a bee
sting. Anaphylactic shock can also
happen after a vaccination
The allergic reactions cause a cascade
of hormones which results in low blood
pressure and shock
Cardiogenic shock A patient with a history of heart
disease loses the ability to cope
The heart exhausts its compensatory
mechanisms, the circulation of blood is
inadequate, blood pressure drops, and
the animal goes into shock
Toxic or septic shock Toxins, such as a snake or insect
bites, or an overwhelming infection.
The effect of toxins causes the organs to
shut down which results in shock
Dehydration or volume Severe vomiting, diarrhoea, or Reduction in the liquid part of blood
sends the organs
depletion lack of drinking water into survival mode
5.1.3 Treating Shock
The treatment of shock is complex and depends on supporting the pet’s circulation (by the
use of intravenous fluids as given by a veterinarian), keeping the patient warm (as they are
prone to heat loss), and correcting the underlying cause.
• Traumatic shock: Stop blood loss and start pain management
• Anaphylactic shock: Antihistamines or corticosteroids to switch off the allergic reaction
• Cardiogenic shock: Medications to support heart function
• Septic shock: Antibiotics to fight infection
• Dehydration: Intravenous fluids to replace lost fluids
Thus, most cases of shock require rapid intervention by a vet. However, stopping blood
loss in the case of trauma and keeping the patient warm is of crucial importance. Take
immediate action first and then phone the vet so they are waiting for your arrival, and
transport the pet to the clinic with all possible speed.
To keep an animal warm, consider:
• Insulate them from the ground: If the ground is colder than the pet, the pet transfers their
body heat to the earth which causes further chilling. Place a mat, blanket or coat under
the pet.
• Cover with a blanket or coat : To prevent further heat loss to the air
• Handwarmer or hot water bottle: Use the hand warmer from a first aid kit, or a hot water
bottle to keep the patient warm. Always wrap a hottie in a towel to prevent thermal burns
to the animal.
• Do NOT give oral pain relief. As part of the shock reaction, blood is diverted away from
the gut and oral medicines are poorly absorbed, plus they are liable to sit in contact with
the stomach wall, causing gastric ulcers. Whilst not giving pain relief may seem like a
bad thing, it positively leaves the field clear for the vet to give strong pain relief by
injection, without the risk of drug interactions.
5.2 Controlling Blood Loss
During their lifetime most pets will cut or injure themselves in some way. From a cutting
a paw on broken glass, to a catfight resulting in a ripped ear, or the dog hit by a car, it’s
important you know what to do when faced with a bleeding animal.
5.2.1 Applying Pressure to a Wound
For everything, but a major arterial bleed, applying pressure to the wound is usually
enough to allow a blood clot to form which stops further bleeding.
Place a clean cotton pad (alternatively a finger or a sanitary napkin) over the wound and
apply a constant firm pressure for around 5 minutes. Press hard enough that the bleeding
stops and then keep the pressure on for 5 minutes. Should the pad soak through during that
time, do not remove it but apply another over the top of the first.
After 5 minutes cautiously raise one corner of the pad to see if the bleeding has stopped.
• If yes, slowly remove the pad and take the animal to a vet
• If no, apply firmer pressure and hold for another 5 minutes (or apply a pressure
bandage and get to the vet)
• If after an additional 5 minutes the area is still bleeding, apply a pressure bandage and
take the pet to a vet
A Pressure Bandage
• This is a bandage which is applied tightly to a cotton pad to stop the wound
from bleeding. These are useful and highly effective for short periods of time, such as
transporting the patient to a vet.
• First place a pad over the wound, then
wrap several layers of bandage over
the top. Put sufficient tension on the
bandage that the pressure causes the
bleeding to stop. Now extend the
bandage above and below the wound
in order to spread the pressure acting
like a tourniquet. If possible, include the pet’s paw in the dressing in order to prevent
it swelling because blood cannot escape from the paw and return to the heart.
• Ideally, a pressure bandage should only be left in place for around 15 - 30 minutes,
or there is a danger of cutting off the circulation and causing complications.
A Word of Caution about Tourniquets
A tourniquet is a tight bandage used to cut off the blood supply to a limb. Traditionally,
a tourniquet was used to stop blood pumping out of an arterial bleed where the patient would
otherwise be in grave danger of bleeding out. In these circumstances it may still be
appropriate to use a tourniquet in bursts of 5 -10 minutes, however, there is a severe risk of
complications further down the line.
The problem is a tourniquet cuts off the blood supply to the whole limb. Deprived of vital
oxygen, the tissues quickly start to die off, which can lead to complications such as gangrene,
if the patient recovers from the original injury.
If you see the pet’s life is in danger from blood loss and a tourniquet is the only option, then
loosen the tension every 5 – 10 minutes, to allow blood to flow back into the limb and resupply
the tissues with vital oxygen.
If necessary, work in cycles with the tourniquet applied for 5 – 10 minutes, loosened for
one minute, and then reapplied, whilst you transport the patient to a vet. While the tourniquet
is loosened, apply pressure with a fingertip directly onto the bleeding vessel to provide a
modicum of control while the rest of the limb is resupplied with blood.
5.3 Cleaning wounds
For minor wounds and injuries prompt cleaning is important as it reduces the risk of
infection. However, for a large, bleeding wound your priority is to prevent further blood
loss and then seek help. It is not a good idea to clean major wounds in the field, since this
disturbs blood clots and may restart haemorrhage. Leave the cleaning of large wounds to
the vet in the controlled conditions of the clinic. Instead, use the time more effectively by
avoiding delay and make straight for professional medical attention.
5.3.1 Cleaning Bite Wounds or Minor Injuries
The secret to cleaning wounds effectively is to use large volumes of fluid in order to wash
and flush grit or bacteria away. The ideal solution for this is sterile saline, which you may
have in your first aid kit, or use contact lens solution. Saline is gentle on damaged tissue
whilst effective at cleaning away contamination.
A good second choice of cleaning agent is either dilute disinfectant (such as Betadine)
or salt water. These both have excellent disinfectant properties, but can be slightly damaging
to exposed tissue and so there is a small risk they may delay the eventual healing of the
wound.
To make up a saltwater solution, add a teaspoon of table salt to a pint of previously
boiled and cooled water. Mix well. Soak clean cotton wool in this solution then dribble
liberally over the wound to wash away dirt, saliva, or bacteria. When wiping a wound, always
work from the centre of the injury out toward the edges.
When using Betadine, dilute it well with water until it is the colour of weak tea as strong
betadine will definitely damage tissue.
5.4 Basic nursing
The nursing care of the patient in a first aid situation is crucial to their recovery. A little TLC
can go a long way when it comes to helping a pet feel better and make a speedy recovery.
The other side of the coin is that good nursing involves careful observation of the patient to
monitor for improvement or deterioration, which allows you to adjust their treatment
appropriately.
Basic nursing includes:
• Warmth: From tummy upsets to wounds, keeping the pet warm and comfortable helps
them feel better. Sick animals are prone to heat loss, which in extreme cases can lead
to shock.
• Fluid intake: Make sure the patient is drinking water and keeping it down. If necessary,
bathe the gums with a clean flannel soaked in water to keep the patient’s mouth moist.
• Comfortable Bedding: Warm comfortable bedding helps prevent pressure sores,
retains heat, and generally helps the pet feel better.
• Change of Position: A poorly pet that is lying down and not moving around, should be
encouraged to change position every half hour or so. This prevents fluid from pooling in
the ‘downside’ of the lungs and also reduces the risk of bed sores.
• Monitoring Urine and Feces: It is important to know what the pet is passing (normal or
abnormal appearance and frequency)
since this provides valuable clues about
the animal’s condition.
• Cleaning: Keeping the animal free of
urine or faecal soiling is important to
prevent skin infections and keep the
pet comfortable.
• Change Dressings: Keeping
dressings clean and change them as instructed by a veterinarian, which helps prevent
secondary infections.
• Regular Medications: Making sure the pet takes their medication on time.
• Monitoring: Being vigilant for changes (both good and bad) such as a rising fever, so
you can seek professional help quickly
• Hand Feeding: A poorly pet can sometimes be encouraged to eat by hand feeding
slightly warmed food.
5.5 Bandaging
Mention first aid and for many people this conjures up images of bandaged arms in
slings. Good bandaging technique is a staple of first aid, and is actually more difficult than
it looks. This is especially true when you patient is an animal because a loose bandage is
prone to fall off when the pet shakes their paw, and they cannot tell you if a too-tight bandage
is cutting off the circulation or causing pressure sores.
Don’t be bashful about practising your bandaging skills. Perhaps cut your teeth on a
human volunteer because they can tell you if the bandage is uncomfortably tight. Once
you’ve mastered the correct tension, then practice on your pet or cuddly toys until
bandaging becomes second nature.
5.5.1 Bandaging Materials
Your first aid kit should be equipped with the following basics.
• Cotton wool
• Sterile pad
• Gauze bandage
• Co-flex self-adhesive bandage
• Elastic adhesive bandage e.g. Elastoplast, Tensoplast
Use of Dressing Materials
Material Purpose How to Use
Cotton wool
1- Place between toes
to stop claws digging in
2- Wrapped around a
fractured limb to
provide padding and
support
1- Roll into small sausages and place
between the toes
2- When applying a splint tear off flat strips of
cotton wool and wrap evenly around the limb
to form padding
Sterile Pad
Protects the wound
from further
contamination
Place the pad over the wound and then
bandage over the top of it to hold it in place.
Sterile pads are usually ‘non-stick’ which
makes them easier to remove from a sticky
wound, than a bandage.
Gauze bandage Forms the body of the
dressing
Wound in overlapping layers to form a spiral
around the area in need of dressing
Coflex
Optional: Keeps the
bandage clean and
provides extra support
Wind over the top of the bandage to keep it
together and provide extra support
Elastic adhesive bandage
Useful to stop a
bandage slipping off a
leg
Overlap the adhesive bandage, part on the
fur and part on the dressing, to provide an
anchor.
5.5.2 Bandaging Techniques
Your first decision is whether a bandage is necessary or not.
Reasons to bandage an injury include to shield it from further exposure to dirt, to stop the
animal licking it, or to reduce bleeding by holding a pad in place. However, small, non-
bleeding wounds that the pet is paying no attention to are best left open to the air, which
helps the wound to dry up.
Be careful not to apply a bandage too tightly, as this can cut off the blood supply. If
necessary, dress the wound erring on the loose side, and use adhesive bandage overlapping
some fur and the bandage, to secure it in place temporarily.
Bandaging a Paw
Clean and dry the injury. Place a sterile pad over the injured area. Use small sausages
of cotton wool in between each toe to separate them and stop the nails from digging into
the neighbouring toe.
Hold the roll of gauze bandage along the leg. Place one end on the back of the
paw, holding it with a thumb whilst rolling the bandage over the toes to the underside of
the foot to cover the pads. Hold that piece in place with a finger and reverse the direction
to re-trace the bandage over the toes and up onto the back of the paw to form a double
layer.
Now, angle the bandage to 90 degrees to the leg, and start bandaging around the paw,
overlapping each previous throw by one half to a third. Apply moderate tension to each
throw. Take the bandage as high as needed, then return, winding downwards to provide at
least a double layer. Place as many layers, winding up and down the paw, as necessary.
Cut the bandage and tuck the free end under a previous wrap to secure it in place.
Now wind a layer of Coflex over the top of the gauze bandage to protect it. Do not apply
tension to the Coflex. For extra security overlap a throw of adhesive bandage around fur
and the top of the bandage to secure it in place.
Bandaging a Limb
Start bandaging as you would for a paw but take the bandage as high up the leg as
necessary.
Alternatively, place a sterile pad over the injury and hold it in place with adhesive tape.
Then wind the gauze bandage over the top. Finish with a layer of Coflex or alternatively a
sock, in order to protect the dressing, and secure the sock using adhesive tape.
Splinting a Limb
If you suspect a limb is broken, a splint can help support the fracture whilst you seek help.
You can use anything that is stiff to provide rigidity, such as a stick, rolled up newspaper,
or cardboard.
First apply a bandage to the whole of the limb, including the joints above and below the
fracture site. If you have cotton wool, wrap the bandage in padding to provide extra
support. Now place the bracing against the dressing, along with the length of the limb.
Use strips of adhesive dressing tape to circle around the splint and hold it to the dressing.
For extra security wind another layer of bandage over the limb to enclose the splint.
Have someone hold the pet still whilst you transport them to the vet clinic.
Bandaging a Tail
Be warned, tails are tricky to bandages dog’s quickly wag them off, so don’t be discouraged
if your first effort comes off right away. Try again…
Apply a sterile pad to the wound. Tape the pad to the fur with adhesive bandaging tape. Now
use gauze bandage, wrapping it around the tail in an overlapping spiral to add extra
security. Finish with adhesive dressing tape overlapping the bandage to the fur at the tail
base.
Bandaging an Ear
Ear wounds can bleed profusely, especially when the pet shakes their head. To prevent this
place a sterile pad over the injury. Fold the injured ear on top of the patient’s head.
Now fold the good ear on top of that to form an “ear sandwich”. Hold both ears in place on
top of the head by winding gauze bandage around the head and neck as many times as
needed. Secure the dressing in place with adhesive dressing tape overlapping fur and
bandage.
Take care to be able to insert two fingers between the dressing and the throat, or the
dog may not be able to breathe.
Bandaging the Body
Apply a sterile pad to the wound and wind bandage around the body to hold it in place. Secure
in position with adhesive dressing tape.
Alternatively, if the wound is not bleeding but the pet is licking the area, try putting a small T-
shirt on the dog (the dog’s head through the neck, front legs through the sleeves) then knot
the hem over the dog’s back, to keep the body covered.
5.5.3 Improvised Dressings
If you don’t have access to bandages, you can improvise surprisingly effective dressings
from common articles of clothing.
• Stretchy long sports socks in a small size or stockings are a useful way to cover a leg.
Also trying cutting the toe of a pair of pantyhose or stockings, to make a head dressing.
• T-shirts make great body dressings, as do pillowcases, withholds cut for the legs and
head.
Be careful about how you secure a makeshift dressing in place. Avoid using safety pins
where possible because these are hazardous if swallowed. At a push you can use duct
tape to secure the fabric, but avoid putting this in contact with fur as it is so sticky that it can
be difficult to remove afterwards.
Regardless of the type of dressing, be sure to change it regularly(a minimum of daily) or
as directed by your veterinarian. This ensures wounds are kept clean and allows you to check
for infection regularly.
Always be vigilant for the pet chewing at dressing, as this can be a sign the dressing is
too tight and the circulation compromised. If in doubt, remove the dressing and start again
rather than risk a too tight dressing causing permanent damage.