montréal & québec citymedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/montreal-quebec... · mouthwatering...
TRANSCRIPT
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
Montréal & Québec City
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Regis St Louis, Gregor Clark
Plan Your Trip 1
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ContentsContents
Welcome to Montréal & Québec City ��������������������� 4
Montréal’s Top 10 ������������ 6
What’s New �������������������� 13
Need to Know �����������������14
Top Itineraries ����������������16
If You Like ����������������������� 18
Month by Month �������������21
With Kids ������������������������ 24
Visiting Québec City ����� 25
Eating ���������������������������28Drinking & Nightlife ���32Entertainment �������������36Shopping ��������������������� 40
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Montréal & Québec City 211
Survival Guide 237
Montréal Maps 266
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Montréal & Québec City 42
Transportation ������������238
Directory A–Z ��������������243
Language ���������������������248
Index �����������������������������255
Montréal Today ����������� 212
History �������������������������� 214
People & Culture ��������� 221
Music & the Arts ����������224
Architecture �����������������229
Québec City History & Culture ��������������������������233
Neighborhoods at a Glance ����������������������������44
Old Montréal ������������������46
Parc Jean-Drapeau �������66
Downtown �����������������������71
Quartier Latin & the Village ����������������������89
Plateau Mont-Royal ������101
Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont ��������������������116
Southwest & Outer Montréal ������������ 129
Day Trips from Montréal���������������������143
Sleeping ���������������������154
Québec City ��������������� 167
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Old Montréalp46
Quartier Latin& the Village
p89
PlateauMont-Royal
p101
Downtownp71
ParcJean-Drapeau
p66
Little Italy, Mile End &Outremont
p116
(left) Québec City p167 Stroll along historic Old Town streets�
(above) Parc Jean-Drapeau, Montréal p66 Escape the city bustle at this leafy oasis�
(right) Grey squirrel Often seen in eastern Canada�
Top ItinerariesDay OneOld Montréal (p46)
M Take the subway to Place-d’Armes and make a beeline for the stunning
Basilique Notre-Dame. Explore the cob-blestoned streets of the old town, winding your way to the sailors’ church, Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours. Stroll up Place Jacques-Cartier with its many busk-ers and artists, into the Château Ramezay museum.
Old Montréal (p46)
R Deepen your understanding of the city’s history at the excellent Musée
d’Archéologie et d’histoire Pointe-à-Callière before crossing Pl d’Youville to Fonderie Darling for its innovative contemporary-art installations.
Old Montréal (p46)
N If you’re not dining in style, grab a quick pizza at Bevo before catching
a show at Cirque du Soleil in the Old Port. You might also consider watching the sky turn various colors at sunset while down-ing an old-fashioned on the rooftop patio at Terrasse Nelligan. Party the night away at scenester magnet Velvet or Philémon, which will rock you until 3am.
Day TwoDowntown (p71)
M Start your tour of downtown Mon-tréal at Musée des Beaux-Arts de
Montréal for its excellent collection of Old Masters and contemporary art. Architec-ture aficionados will dig the contemporary Desmarais pavilion as well as the Claire & Marc Bourgie Pavilion in an 1890s church. Next stroll down Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, home to tiny shops and heritage mansions, toward McGill University.
Canal de Lachine (p132)
R Hop on the metro to Lionel-Groulx and walk down to Marché Atwater
for a look at the farmers’ produce, croissants and cheese. If you have the energy, rent a Bixi bike from a nearby station and pedal the Canal de Lachine. If not, consider a cruise on the canal.
Downtown (p71)
N Upstairs has nightly jazz perfor-mances, or better yet the jazz festival
will be rocking the blocks around Place des Arts if your timing is right. Otherwise grab a postdinner glass at the Dominion Square Tavern or hear some beats at underground Bleury Bar à Vinyle.
Dinner Garde-Manger (p59) for a fun crowd, and tasty cocktails and dishes.
Lunch Grab a tasty baguette sandwich at Titanic (p58).
Dinner For incredible Québecois fare, try Joe Beef (p81) if you can get in.
Lunch Vegetarian-friendly Lola Rosa (p79) has great food and ambience.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd16
Day ThreeLittle Italy, Mile End & Outremont (p116)
M Make for Little Italy to explore the mouthwatering Marché Jean-
Talon. Stroll down to the local church, the Église Madonna della Difesa, and be sure to spot Mussolini on the ceiling. Browse the old-world shops along Blvd St-Laurent before hopping a bus (or Bixi) to Mile End.
Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont (p116)
R Ramble along St-Viateur and Bernard, visiting Drawn &
Quarterly for its whimsical book selec-tions, hipster curiosities at Monastiraki and artfully recycled objects at Galerie CO. Before dinner, grab a taxi to Parc du
Mont-Royal for a panoramic view of the city from Kondiaronk lookout.
Plateau Mont-Royal (p101)
N Head down to Casa del Popolo and see what the hipster kids are
cheering for on stage. Afterward, take a late-night bar crawl down Blvd St-Laurent. Stop in Big in Japan for elegance and high-end libations, Majestique for oysters
Day FourParc Jean-Drapeau (p66)
M A river runs through it, dividing Parc Jean-Drapeau into two isles.
Begin at Île Ste-Hélène with a tour of re-markable buildings from yesteryear. Learn about the environment and our impact on it at the Biosphère, housed in Buckmin-ster Fuller’s geodesic dome built for Expo ’67. Not far away, the Musée Stewart is the site of an authentic British garrison.
Parc Jean-Drapeau (p66)
R Wander the island’s walking paths, taking in the outdoor sculptures
before kicking up your heels at Piknic Électronik, a summertime electronica dance fest. If it’s not on, try for some thrills on the world’s tallest wooden roller coaster at La Ronde. You can grab panoramic but
decidedly slower views of the city from 45m up on the Ferris wheel.
Parc Jean-Drapeau (p66)
N The island is a perfect spot to watch the sky explode with fire-
works during L’International des Feux Loto Québec. If not, the Casino de Montréal has everything you need for a good time; just bring luck. Or take a long walk or quick taxi ride to Habitat ’67,
Dinner Inventive Vietnamese fusion and drinks at Hà (p110).
Lunch Enjoy market-fresh fare at the charming little Arts Cafe (p118).
Dinner High-end fare at a new restau-rant in the Casino de Montréal (p69).
Lunch Snacks along the forested paths.
17PLAN
YOUR TRIP T
op
ITIn
ER
AR
IES
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
Airport
Border crossingBART station
Boston T stationBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro/Muni station
Petrol stationSubway/SkyTrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Gate
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
Montréal Maps
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd266
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æ Top Sights (p48) 31 Rue de l'Hôpital & Around.........................C4 1 Basilique Notre-Dame................................C4 32 Rue St-Jacques .......................................... B4 33 Rue St-Paul ................................................. D5 æ Sights (p49) 34 Sailors' Memorial Clock Tower.................H5 2 Bank of Montreal ........................................C3 35 Vieux Séminaire de St-Sulpice .................C4 3 Centre des Sciences de Montréal ............D5
4 Centre d'Histoire de Montréal...................B5 ú Eating (p57) 5 Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours.... F4 36 Barroco........................................................ B5 6 Château Ramezay ...................................... F4 37 Beijing ..........................................................D2 7 Cours Le Royer............................................D4 38 Bevo ............................................................. E4 8 Courthouses................................................D4 39 Bocata.......................................................... C5 9 Fonderie Darling..........................................A6 40 Boris Bistro .................................................B4 10 Guardian Trust Building.............................C4 41 Bremner....................................................... F4 11 Hôtel de Ville................................................E4 42 Café Différance........................................... B3 12 Lieu Historique de Sir George- 43 Café Santé Veritas .....................................D4 Étienne-Cartier........................................ G4 44 Da Emma ..................................................... A7 13 Marché Bonsecours ................................... F4 45 Gandhi.......................................................... C5 14 Mariners' House .........................................C5 46 Garde-Manger............................................. C5 15 Molson Bank Building.................................B4 47 Gibby's ......................................................... B5 16 Musée d'Archéologie et d'Histoire 48 Hoang Oanh ................................................D2 Pointe-à-Callière ......................................C5 49 La Maison Kam Fung ................................. D2 17 Musée des Soeurs-Grises..........................B6 50 Le Cartet......................................................B6 18 New York Life Building ...............................D4 51 Le Club Chasse et Pêche........................... F4 19 Old Customs House ...................................C5 52 Le Local........................................................ A5 20 Palais des Congrès .....................................C3 Le Serpent............................................(see 9) 21 Parc du Bassin Bonsecours ..................... G6 53 Little Sheep Hot Pot................................... D2 22 PHI Center ...................................................B5 54 L'Orignal ......................................................B4 23 Place d'Armes .............................................C4 55 Mai Xiang Yuan ........................................... D2 24 Place Jacques-Cartier................................E4 56 Noodle Factory ........................................... D2 25 Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle ...........................B3 57 Olive + Gourmando.................................... B5 26 Place Royale ................................................C5 58 Orange Rouge.............................................C2 27 Quai Alexandra & Around..........................C6 59 Pho Bang New York ................................... D2 28 Quai Jacques-Cartier & Around................ F5 60 Restaurant Holder...................................... B5 29 Royal Bank Building....................................B4 61 SoupeSoup.................................................. A6 30 Rue de la Commune................................... F4 62 Stash Café................................................... C5
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TRÉAL 63 Tapas, 24 .....................................................B4 86 U&I................................................................C5 64 Titanic...........................................................B4 87 Zone Orange ............................................... B5 65 Toqué! ..........................................................B3
Ø Sports & Activities (p64) û Drinking & Nightlife (p61) 88 Académie Culinaire du Québec.................F3 66 Club Peopl....................................................B4 89 AML Cruises................................................ E6 67 Flyjin .............................................................B5 90 Amphi Tours ............................................... D5 68 L'Assommoir ...............................................C4 91 Ça Roule Montréal...................................... E5 69 Le Confessionnal ........................................B5 92 Guidatour.....................................................C4 70 Le Mal Necessaire.......................................D2 93 Le Bateau Mouche ......................................F5 71 Les Soeurs Grises.......................................B6 94 Le Petit Navire ............................................ E5 72 Luwan ...........................................................D2 95 Les Fantômes du Vieux-Montréal............ C5 73 Philémon......................................................D5 96 Luna Yoga.................................................... B5 74 Pub St-Paul..................................................E4 97 Patinoire du Bassin Bonsecours..............G5 Taverne Gaspar...............................(see 102) 98 Plage de l'Horloge ......................................H5 Terrasse Nelligan............................ (see 107)
Terrasse Place d'Armes..................(see 114) ÿ Sleeping (p156) 75 Velvet............................................................E4 99 Auberge Alternative................................... B5 76 Wunderbar...................................................B3 100 Auberge Bonaparte....................................C4 101 Auberge Bonsecours ................................. F4 ý Entertainment (p63) 102 Auberge du Vieux-Port .............................. E5 77 Centaur Theatre..........................................C4 103 Auberge St-Paul ......................................... F4 78 Cinéma IMAX du Centre des Sciences 104 Épik...............................................................C5 de Montréal...............................................D5 105 Hôtel Gault ..................................................B4 79 Cirque du Soleil ........................................... F6 106 Hôtel Le St-James...................................... B4 107 Hôtel Nelligan.............................................. D5 þ Shopping (p63) 108 Hôtel St-Paul............................................... B5 Boutique Anne de Shalla...................(see 13) 109 InterContinental Montréal......................... B3 80 DHC Art ........................................................C4 110 L Hotel..........................................................B4 81 Espace Pepin...............................................B5 111 La Conciergerie ..........................................G2 82 Galerie Le Chariot.......................................E4 112 La Maison Pierre du Calvet ....................... F4 83 Galerie St-Dizier..........................................D5 113 Le Petit Hôtel .............................................. C5 Marché Bonsecours ..........................(see 13) 114 Le Place d'Armes........................................ D3 84 My Cup of Tea .............................................D2
85 Rooney .........................................................B4
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Rue Clark
Ave Henri-Julien
Rue de MentanaRue St-Timothée
Rue St-Hubert
Rue Ste-Famille
Ave Calixa Lavallée
Rue
St-N
orbe
rt
Rue Panet
Ave
Du l
uth
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Rue Plessis
Rue Montcalm
Rue Beaudry
Rue
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Rue St-Hubert
Rue St-Christophe
Rue St-André
Ave Laval
Rue
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nce-
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uest
Ave de l'Hôtel-de-Ville
Rue Jeanne-Mance
Rue
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on
Rue Amherst
Rue de la Visitation
Ave de l'Hôtel-de-Ville
Rue Hutchison
Rue de Bullion
Rue St-Dominique
Rue
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ario
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Rue Wolfe
Rue
de R
igau
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Ave
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uth
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lbau
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Ave
des
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s Es
tA
ve d
es P
ins
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st
Rue St-Denis
Rue St-Urbain
Blvd St-Laurent
Ave du ParcA
ve D
ulut
h E s
t
Rue St- Christophe
Ave Coloniale
Sherbroo
kePa
lest
reN
atio
nale
73
72
69
7
51
50
41
44
45
38
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12
143537
2518
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67
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65 7
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281
PLAT
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MO
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L
PLA
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L M
ap o
n p2
80
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ight
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103)
23 L
e Fi
let.
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
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2 4
6 Le
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......
......
......
......
......
......
......
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G4
67
Lib
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......
D6
1
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......
......
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its B
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......
......
.D1
47
Les
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ies.
......
......
......
......
......
......
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2 6
8 S
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ale
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
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2
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......
......
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C4
25
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......
......
......
......
......
......
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......
......
......
......
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......
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......
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7
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......
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......
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E6
49
Pla
n B
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
.....
D2 Ø
Spo
rts
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ctiv
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115)
4 Ég
lise
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tiste
......
......
.....
D4
M
ariu
s....
......
......
......
......
......
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see
71)
50
Res
ervo
ir....
......
......
......
......
......
......
...C
5 6
9 A
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......
......
......
......
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51
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......
......
......
......
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......
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7
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......
......
......
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7
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umen
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......
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......
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4
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......
......
......
......
......
......
.....
C3
70
Fitz
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ollw
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......
......
......
......
......
....B
2
6 P
arc
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......
......
......
......
....C
3
29 P
atat
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ata.
......
......
......
......
......
.....
C4 ý
Ent
erta
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ent
(p11
3)
71
La
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son
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s...
......
......
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7
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c La
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......
......
......
......
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......
......
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......
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6
52 A
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......
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7
72 L
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......
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E6
31
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......
......
......
......
......
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53 C
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......
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......
......
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1
73 S
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......
......
......
......
......
......
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atin
g (p
107)
32 R
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s...
......
......
......
......
......
C1
54
Diè
se O
nze.
......
......
......
......
......
......
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3
8
Au
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e B
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......
......
......
.D4
33
Rom
ados
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
C4
55
Ex-
Cen
tris
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ema
......
......
......
......
..B7 ÿ
Sle
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9 A
u P
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......
......
......
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5 3
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......
......
......
......
......
......
......
.G2
56
Le
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......
......
......
......
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4
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......
......
......
....D
4
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......
......
......
......
......
......
......
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35
Sch
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......
......
......
......
......
......
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5
57 M
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......
......
......
......
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5
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......
......
......
......
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E2
11
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......
......
......
......
......
......
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4
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......
......
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2
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......
......
......
......
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76
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......
......
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4
12 C
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......
......
......
......
.....
B5
37
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......
......
......
......
......
......
C5
77
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&B
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......
......
......
......
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13
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......
......
......
......
......
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5
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4)
78
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......
......
......
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7
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spac
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......
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5 û
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111)
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......
......
......
......
......
......
......
.C2
79
Hôt
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nstit
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......
......
......
......
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15
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......
......
......
......
......
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38
Apt
20
0...
......
......
......
......
......
......
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C6
59
Aux
33
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......
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39 B
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B4
60
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17
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7
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18
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C5
41
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6
62 F
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......
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......
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5
83 L
e R
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t.....
......
......
......
......
......
E3
19
Kou
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......
......
......
......
......
.D2
42
Big
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apan
......
......
......
......
......
......
.C4
63
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......
......
......
......
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2 8
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E3
20
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......
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......
......
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D2
64
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......
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C3
21
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44
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......
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5
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6 6
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......
......
......
......
......
......
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......
C2
282
LITTLE ITALY, MILE EN
D & OUTREM
ON
T
LITT
LE IT
ALY
, MIL
E EN
D &
OU
TREM
ON
T M
ap o
n p2
84
æ S
ight
s (p
118)
22 L
e B
ilboq
uet.
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
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Ent
erta
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7)
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......
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23 L
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4
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45 T
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D5
3
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25
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7
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127)
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......
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27
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E8
28
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2
47 D
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atin
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118)
29 S
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......
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......
......
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......
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48
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k &
Oak
......
......
......
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......
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......
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6 A
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......
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30
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D7
31
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51 J
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9 C
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52
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......
......
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F2
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......
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D8
11
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33 B
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E6
12
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......
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15
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37
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E8
58
Sty
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......
E6
16
Inv
itatio
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......
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D5
38
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4
59 U
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......
......
......
......
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5
17 J
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39
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E8
60
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......
E8
18
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......
......
......
......
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......
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......
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1 4
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......
......
......
......
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......
..D8
19
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......
......
......
......
......
......
....C
7
41 N
otre
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s Q
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s...
......
......
......
......
......
......
....E
4 Ø
Spo
rts
& A
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s (p
128)
2
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a P
anth
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te...
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
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4
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......
......
......
......
......
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5
61 M
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......
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21
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......
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......
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......
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7 4
3 V
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......
......
......
...E3
62 O
vari
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......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
......
.G4
283
LIT
TLE
ITAL
Y, M
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END
& O
UTRE
MO
NT
#
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LITT
LE IT
ALY
Parc
de
la P
etit
e-It
alie
Rue St-Denis
Ave Henri-Julien
Rue
St-
Zotiq
ue E
st
Rue
Bea
ubie
n O
u es t
Rue Hutchison
Rue Alexandra Ave
Bea
umon
t
Rue Waverly
Ave ChampagneurAve Bloomfield
Ave de L Épée
Ave
Moz
art O
uest
Ave de l'Esplanade
Ave Casgrain
Rue Jeanne-Mance
Rue Durocher
Rue
St-
Z ot iq
u e O
u es t
Rue
Bél
ange
r
Ave
Moz
art E
st
Rue St-Urbain
Ave Querbes
Ave de L'Epée
Rue St-Urbain
Rue Drolet
Rue Marconi
Ave de Gaspé
Ave
Duc
harm
e
Rue Le St-Vallier
Rue St-Dominique
Ave du Parc
Ave
Van
Hor
ne
Rue Clark
Blvd St-Laurent
Rue
Bea
ubie
n Es
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4 L'Homme .....................................................B2 Ø Sports & Activities (p70) 5 Musée Stewart ............................................ C1 9 Complexe Aquatique ................................. B2 6 Parc Jean-Drapeau.....................................C2 10 Olympic Basin.............................................C2 11 Plage des Îles .............................................. A4 ú Eating (p69) 12 Stand-Up 7 Hélène de Champlain.................................C2 Paddleboards........................................... A3 La Cabane Chez Jean........................ (see 11) TTS Montréal .....................................(see 12) Le Pavillon 67 ...................................... (see 8)
286
NO
TES
Regis St LouisCoordinating Author A long-time admirer of the free-spirited ethos that rules Québec, Regis has fallen hard for Montréal. He never tires of exploring the city’s tree-lined neighborhoods, munching his way through its markets and cycling its many bike lanes. On this recent trip, he experienced Montréal’s coldest February in history (what’s -20C among friends?), joined the all-night revelry of Nuit Blanche and admired enchanting wintry landscapes in city parks. Regis has
contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet titles, including a previous edition of Montréal & Québec City. When not exploring the back lanes of Québec, he resides in Brooklyn, New York.
Gregor ClarkQuébec City, Day Trips from Montréal A lifelong Francophile and a resident of neighboring Vermont, Gregor has long been smitten with Québec and regu-larly hops across the border for doses of French-Canadian culture. Québec City remains one of his favorite North American cities (alongside San Francisco). He especially enjoyed sharing Winter Carnival with family while researching this edition. Gregor has written three dozen Lonely Planet guides since 2000, mostly
focused on Europe and Latin America. He also wrote the Understand and Survival Guide sections of this guide. Read more about Gregor at:
auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/gregorclark
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9834th edition – December 2015ISBN 978 1 74321 550 0© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 201510 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Our Writers
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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