more_than_katalog
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MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE
Jewellley Exhibition
MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE
By Me e Strømgaard Dalby, Head of Development
As genre, jewellery encompasses anything from sculptural miniature works to large body ornaments in the cross field between tradi onal jewellery, accessories, and clothing. The dis nc on between what is real and what is fake in terms of materials is not relevant and has not been for a long me; jewellery designers readily mix noble metals with rubber, ceramics, and tex le. The goldsmiths’ tradi onal methods of processing have been posi vely challenged by tradi onal methods of related professions as well as modern technologies resul ng in a diversity of jewellery made from ceramics, tex les, feathers, paper, and laser cut metals.
By se ng up this exhibi on, Kolding School of Design wants to focus the spotlight on jewellery design by showing how, for the past 16 years, designers educated at the school have worked thema cally with jewellery. The exhibi on displays the works of 14 designers who have all been engaged in working with jewellery design although coming from very different fields: Fashion, Tex le, Interac on Design, Industrial Design, and Ceramics. Naturally, the different design backgrounds bring en rely diverse expressions to the jewellery. However, interes ngly, their specific design background is not obvious.
The exhibi on shows how different professional approaches can inspire the genre of jewellery. In the long run, we hope this mutual inspira on will result in a Danish Master’s degree in jewellery design to allow Danish jewellery designers to be able to match their foreign colleagues educa on-wise. Interna onally, jewellery design has been part of the design school curriculum for a long me.
Hopefully, this small exhibi on demonstrates the interest and talent of Danish students as well.
Soffia Einarsdo r4th-year student, Interac on Design
Materials: Paper, chain, ink
People use their body and their clothes to release an unlimited number of signals telling the story of who they are. Interac ve clothing makes it possible to employ the body and clothes as an interface to the world and people around us. Interac on presents possibili es of expression that combine the bodily and aesthe c worlds.
The product is an interac ve piece of jewellery which enables modern women to be both crea ve and individual while expressing a story or an emo on which con nuously changes.
Completed 2010
Be na MøllerClass of 2010, Fashion
Materials: Latex, wood, amber, silver, apple core, bark, chewing gum, sawdust
”Trees are Rare”Out of respect and love for the material, I created an accessory collec on inspired by the many religious and symbolic applica ons of wood. Among other things, I worked with fruit, leaves, amber, and surfaces coming directly from the tree such as bark and splinters. In addi on, I processed chewing gum, coffee, cocoa, etc. and captured these in latex to make them represent a modern counterpart to amber.
Completed 2009
+45 22765439www.be namoeller.com
Alexandra LindekClass of 2010, Fashion
Materials: Tahi cultural pearls, oxidised silver, goat velour, calfskin, Silverblue mink
The design is inspired by the extraordinary Maxxi Museum in Rome; its freestanding stairs and sweeping hallways that ceaselessly pique the curiosity of the visitors and present new shapes. The jewellery complements the line of clothes by emphasising the materials mink, skin, and leather and consists of ribbons, necklaces, and bracelets.
The jewellery consists of Tahi cultural pearls and together with the oxidised silver and the processed fur and skin it becomes an expression of rawness and femininity combined. The jewellery is created in collabora on with the goldsmiths Seiersbøl & Vedebech, Kolding.
Completed 2010
+45 20617429www.lindek.dk
Magnhild Evenseth DisingtonClass of 2009, Tex le
Materials: Wood, fur, leather
“The Modern Amulet” consists of a collec on of fur USB keys. The project was among the finalists in the “The Golden Fur Pin” 2010 annual compe on organised by Kopenhagen Fur.I have worked with the rela onship between people and their portable gadgets and electronic devices. I have taken my point of departure in the dis nct lack of emo onal appeal of these products. By crea ng ”The Modern Amulet” I have a empted to balance the emo onal value of the informa on we carry and the objects with which we carry it.
Completed 2009
+45 50534385www.magnhilddisington.com
Pille Pernille HorstClass of 2009, Fashion
Materials: Co on yarn, lucite, silk ribbon, wooden balls, silver rings, fabric, and synthe c filling
Greta Molander (1908-2002) was propelled by petrol and champagne and lived a life of rallies and travels. She was sociable, colourful, and fashion conscious with a sense of humour and a zest for life. Greta’s life serves as a great source of inspira on because it enables you to work with humour, gender roles, and not least plenty of colours, which she truly appreciated. The project links spontaneity with a love of cra techniques resul ng in a humorous and playful expression.
Completed 2008
+45 23343292www.pillepernillehorst.blogspot.com
Rikke Malte BorgClass of 2009, Tex le
Materials: Black synthe c tex le fibre
”Squiggle”A line – a line of thought – a ta oo. A s ng – a curly string – a squiggle.Completed 2010
Materials: Rubber, plas c, synthe c tex le fibre, acrylic, aluminium thread, silicone, silver
”Diner Transportable”Necklaces inspired by molecular gastronomy.Completed 2008
+45 22988842www.designrborg.dk
Liv EskholmClass of 2007, Tex le
Materials: 925 sterling silver, 22 carat gold, leather, enamel
”RIPP OFF”Line which caricatures the posi on of the jewellery. Moreover, the line emphasises signal value by strongly contras ng material and technique. The crudely processed pieces of jewellery made from silver and oxidised silver respec vely are a ached directly to the body using tape.
”Common brooch necklace”Pearl necklace made from badges covered with white skin. The badges can be removed and worn separately. In principle, the badge is a brooch despite the fact that the brooch is commonly defined as being delicate and posh. The line of jewellery considers the posi on of the brooch, and with the visual references of the badge to the pearl, it also considers the iconic value of the badge.
Completed 2007
Karina HunnerupClass of 2007, Tex le
Materials: 925 sterling silver, gold-plated (24 carat) silver, tex le-coated elas c
“Leaves”Playful no on of having 1 life symbolised by 1 leaf = ringPlayful no on of having 9 lives symbolised by 9 leaves = braceletPlayful no on of having 22 lives symbolised by 22 leaves = necklace
Completed 2010
+45 61382583www.karinahunn.dk
Me e JensenClass of 2007, Ceramics
Materials: Ceramics, silver
I am fascinated with exploring the poten al of a ceramic material. I love to challenge my ceramic competencies and to challenge ceramics in search of the limit of the material.
Ceramics stands out by being heavy and fragile, delicate and violent, noble and raw all at the same me. With this jewellery I have used the ability to create strong contrasts that convey the story of
what it means to be an ordinary human being.
My ambi ous objec ve is to create beau ful, exci ng, and communica ve jewellery which states unique radia on.
Completed 2007
+45 21826655www.me e-ravn.dk
Caroline Hansen Class of 2005, Fashion
Mie Albæk NielsenClass of 2005, Fashion
Materials: Silver, gold, lace, mink, Swarovski crystal
“Totally-overdone-it”, chain“Mighty-power-muscleman”, chain“Great-great-grandmother”, brooch“Look-a-like-lady”, pin
Completed 2006 and 2010
”Dry your tears away”The piece of jewellery is inspired by Swiss handkerchiefs – hand-cra ed from lace and mink and covered in Swarovski crystal.
Completed 2009
+45 61682746www.femmesregionales.com
Birgi e LevinClass of 2004, Tex le
Eschel Jacobsen Class of 2005, Industrial Design
Material: Metal
“Eslin”Cut flowers – flower inspired necklaces in laser cut metalOur cross-disciplinary design process takes its star ng point in product design and pa erns. In order to create an innova ve look, we have inves gated how the flexibility of the material interacts with a geometric flower inspired mode of expression.
Completed 2011
+45 30290239 +45 [email protected] [email protected]
Pernille Back PetersenClass of 2000, Ceramics
Henrik Pagh SørensenClass of 1992, Ceramics
Materials: Glass and silver
Already a trained ceramicist I became acquainted with the making of glass pearls. The generosity of the glass regarding colour, transparency, and work process instantly appealed to me. In working with the glass pearls I have tried to come up with an expression that can be combined with simple yet colourful and easy-to-wear jewellery.
Completed 2011
Anne Black Class of 1996, Ceramics
Materials: Porcelain and silver
The collec on is characterised by clean lines, simple shapes, and the subdued graphic decora ons typical of Anne’s design voice – a voice that blatantly reflects the Scandinavian design tradi on.
Completed 2010
+45 35107327www.anneblack.dk
Ane e Gråbæk Class of 1994, Tex le
Mulle FaberClass of 1994, Fashion
Materials: Plas c, leather, and hand-cra ed glass pearls
The asymmetric aspect is emphasised by the dis nct use of colour – black, almost in abundance, interrupted by illumina ng explosions of clear colours where the gleaming, shiny pearls float along elas c lines of silicone or contrast the raw but polished texture of the leather strings. The final anatomy of the jewellery is affected by everything from the tac le excitement of the unexpected combina on of materials to the designer’s fascina on for the rustle of glass pearls.
Completed 2010
+45 29382909www.mulgrey.com
Photography: Patrizia OczkiMake-up: Mille Erikstrup Text: Me e Strømgaard Dalby, Helene Jensen, Søren SønderstrupTransla on: Marianne Baggesen Hilger
Display and tables: HAYPrint and installa on: Kolding Skiltecenter
Thank you to Henrik Pagh Sørensen
Kolding School of DesignAagade 10DK-6000 Kolding
www.dskd.dk+45 75301100
Kolding 2011