moroccan’roll than you’d expect · is famous for hedonistic parties, great weather, wonderful...

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THE SPREAD | CITY GUIDE 68 | THE EXCHANGE | June 2011 RIGHT CONTESTANTS, ngers on your buzzers. Here’s your starter for ten. Which city is famous for hedonistic parties, great weather, wonderful food, and is within just three hours from London? Ibiza Town? No. Madrid? It’s good, but it’s not right. Berlin? If it’s up there, I’ll give you the money myself. Ok, hands up who had Marrakech in North Africa? No-one? Ok, apart from the smart one at the back, probably not many of you. And why would you? For one, surely Africa’s more than three hours ight away, right? And secondly, how can a small city in an Islamic country possibly be a party capital? Well you’d be wrong on both counts and would be walking away without even a cuddly toy, because despite its relatively small size, Marrakech is as close to the perfect weekend retreat as it gets for those wanting to head o and experience exquisite culture, excess and cuisine in a sun drenched lovers’ playground. It’s undeniably surprising, but it’s also unquestionably wonderful. So, when you’re next asked the question, of ‘where should you go for a genuinely dierent weekend experience?’ you shouldn’t need to phone a friend. Don’t even ask the audience. Your rst and nal answer should be simple: “Marrakech, Bob. Now I’ll have a P please.” WHERE TO STAY? Marrakech is not a particularly big place, so getting around is easy (although taxi drivers appear to be constantly competing for an award for ‘ the narrowest gap tted through in full size car at full speed’). is means that, whilst most of the action takes place in the old town medina, it’s better to be just outside of the centre, and travel in for business or pleasure. e very best place in town is Les Deux Tours, which even our rusty GCSE French MOROCCAN’ROLL THAN YOU’D EXPECT Much of North Africa is going through a hard time right now, but there’s at least one oasis where a perfect getaway hides. Mark Southern discovered what makes Marrakech the go-to weekend destination for the cool kids in the know. “IT’S BETTER TO BE JUST OUTSIDE OF THE CENTRE, AND TRAVEL IN FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE” its luxurious excellence. e hotel has acres of private gardens, fountains and wildlife, and is a perfect location to plan your trip from. Its award-winning restaurant and exceptional service means that you’ll be tempted to spend all of your time within the hotel’s imperious walls, but you would be missing out on the full Moroccan experience if you didn’t venture out at least once. Make sure you book one of the Villa Suites, and treat yourself to the remarkable private dining experiences, where your own private waiter for the evening will serve you a fabulous taster menu of local produce from the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant. Also, take time to wander around the extensive gardens, reveling in the relaxed ambience, and enjoying cocktails by your own private pool. is is a genuinely delightful hotel, and one that is an absolute must-stay during your time in Morocco (www.les-deux-tours.com). is able to translate into e Two Towers. e hotel sits just 20 minutes away from the centre, in what locals call the palmery; a vast oasis of palm trees as far as the eye can see. Legend has it that the estimated 150,000 strong ocean of palm trees brings good fortune to the locals, and if by ‘good fortune’ they mean ‘exceptional hotels’ then the myth is certainly true, as Les Deux Tours blows away all others in town with

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Page 1: MOROCCAN’ROLL THAN YOU’D EXPECT · is famous for hedonistic parties, great weather, wonderful food, and is within just three hours ... getting around is easy (although taxi drivers

THE SPREAD | CITY GUIDE

68 | THE EXCHANGE | June 2011

RIGHT CONTESTANTS, !ngers on your buzzers. Here’s your starter for ten. Which city is famous for hedonistic parties, great weather, wonderful food, and is within just three hours from London?

Ibiza Town? No. Madrid? It’s good, but it’s not right. Berlin? If it’s up there, I’ll give you the

money myself.Ok, hands up who had Marrakech in North

Africa? No-one? Ok, apart from the smart one at the back, probably not many of you.

And why would you? For one, surely Africa’s more than three hours "ight away, right? And secondly, how can a small city in an Islamic country possibly be a party capital?

Well you’d be wrong on both counts and would be walking away without even a cuddly toy, because despite its relatively small size, Marrakech is as close to the perfect weekend retreat as it gets for those wanting to head o# and experience exquisite culture, excess and cuisine in a sun drenched lovers’ playground. It’s undeniably surprising, but it’s also unquestionably wonderful.

So, when you’re next asked the question, of ‘where should you go for a genuinely di#erent weekend experience?’ you shouldn’t need to phone a friend. Don’t even ask the audience. Your !rst and !nal answer should be simple: “Marrakech, Bob. Now I’ll have a P please.”

WHERE TO STAY?Marrakech is not a particularly big place, so getting around is easy (although taxi drivers appear to be constantly competing for an award for ‘ the narrowest gap !tted through in full size car at full speed’). $is means that, whilst most of the action takes place in the old town medina, it’s better to be just outside of the centre, and travel in for business or pleasure.

$e very best place in town is Les Deux Tours, which even our rusty GCSE French

MOROCCAN’ROLL THAN YOU’D EXPECTMuch of North Africa is going through a hard time right now, but there’s at least one oasis where a perfect getaway hides. Mark Southern discovered what makes Marrakech the go-to weekend destination for the cool kids in the know.

“IT’S BETTER TO BE JUST OUTSIDE OF THE CENTRE, AND TRAVEL IN FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE”

its luxurious excellence.$e hotel has acres of private gardens,

fountains and wildlife, and is a perfect location to plan your trip from. Its award-winning restaurant and exceptional service means that you’ll be tempted to spend all of your time within the hotel’s imperious walls, but you would be missing out on the full Moroccan experience if you didn’t venture out at least once.

Make sure you book one of the Villa Suites, and treat yourself to the remarkable private dining experiences, where your own private waiter for the evening will serve you a fabulous taster menu of local produce from the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant. Also, take time to wander around the extensive gardens, reveling in the relaxed ambience, and enjoying cocktails by your own private pool.

$is is a genuinely delightful hotel, and one that is an absolute must-stay during your time in Morocco (www.les-deux-tours.com).

is able to translate into $e Two Towers. $e hotel sits just 20 minutes away from the centre, in what locals call the palmery; a vast oasis of palm trees as far as the eye can see. Legend has it that the estimated 150,000 strong ocean of palm trees brings good fortune to the locals, and if by ‘good fortune’ they mean ‘exceptional hotels’ then the myth is certainly true, as Les Deux Tours blows away all others in town with

Page 2: MOROCCAN’ROLL THAN YOU’D EXPECT · is famous for hedonistic parties, great weather, wonderful food, and is within just three hours ... getting around is easy (although taxi drivers

THE SPREAD | CITY GUIDE

June 2011 | THE EXCHANGE | 69

Page 3: MOROCCAN’ROLL THAN YOU’D EXPECT · is famous for hedonistic parties, great weather, wonderful food, and is within just three hours ... getting around is easy (although taxi drivers

THE SPREAD | CITY GUIDE

70 | THE EXCHANGE | June 2011

WHERE TO EAT?Food is of great importance to Moroccans, and you’ll be given special service wherever you go. However, it can be a little too busy in some places, and taking yourself away from the hustle-bustle of the medina (and it really does hustle and really does bustle) is a very good idea indeed.

Les Jardins de la Medina is one such hidden gem, located behind the most unsuspecting door you’ll ever come across. What appears to be nothing more than an empty street houses the nondescript brown door, which acts as a TARDIS-esque portal to another world away from the hectic hullaballoo outside.

You’ll sit by the pool within the quaint riad, where history and opulence pass on their relaxing qualities like osmosis whilst you eat. Try the !sh here, or their excellent French interpretation of the local delicacy, lamb tagine (www.lesjardinsdelamedina.com).

Alternatively, for a more authentic experience, get into the souks (or marketplace) right in the heart of the medina, and enjoy the local "avour from any of the stalls pedaling their wares. It’s cheap, it’s cheerful, and it’s never anything less than delicious.

WHERE TO PARTY?Morocco is an Islamic country, but they

mamounia.com), and the extravagance and Western ambience of the most high pro!le nightclub in town Diamont Noir (www.hotellemarrakech.com).

HIGH ROLLERCasinos and gambling are in surprisingly high supply here, with the odds very much in the players favour when choosing their favourite.

$e best in town is also the oldest; Le Casino de Marrakech. $is impressively opulent palace of inequity has been keeping locals and tourists alike at the tables for over !ve decades, and this experience shines through, with a chic con!dence its competitors lack. Featuring fourteen hours per day of everything you could want from a top casino, this is the only place in town to gamble big (www.ilove-marrakesh.com/casino).

CULTURAL$ere are few places in such relatively close proximity to Britain that have such an authentic sense of cultural identity. Unlike many historic cities where Westernism has diluted the local culture down to a grey shadow of its former glory, here globalism plays second !ddle to local ambience.

From the red shading of every building, to the refusal to build any high rise buildings as

“GET INTO THE SOUKS (OR MARKETPLACE) RIGHT IN THE HEART OF THE MEDINA, AND ENJOY THE LOCAL FLAVOUR”have a laid back attitude to alcohol, bars and nightclubs. In fact, Marrakech is building up something of a reputation as being the party capital of North Africa, with a growing number of cool nightspots shooting up over the past decade.

As throughout the rest of the country, music is the narrative through which the party story plays out, and whether it’s the traditional sounds of the old town square, or the booming house music blaring from a late-night bar, peace and quiet are not to be found here. Instead, energy, fun and friendliness are the watchwords, and you shouldn’t miss the cluster of cacophonic Kasbahs around Avenue Mohammed V.

Special mentions should go to Le Bar Churchill, with its marvelously Moorish feel and impossibly glamorous cocktails (www.

Page 4: MOROCCAN’ROLL THAN YOU’D EXPECT · is famous for hedonistic parties, great weather, wonderful food, and is within just three hours ... getting around is easy (although taxi drivers

THE SPREAD | CITY GUIDE

June 2011 | THE EXCHANGE | 71

“TAKING A WALK THROUGH THE MEDINA IS LIKE STEPPING INTO A CULTURAL TIME MACHINE”

they would challenge the unique dominance of the main city mosque, locals care about their city, and it’s better for it.

Indeed, as long as you can ignore the ubiquitous iphone earphones in every other shopkeeper’s ears, taking a walk through the medina is like stepping into a cultural time machine, as though you could be stepping through the same souks at any time over the past century.

EXTRAVAGANCE$e beauty of Morocco cannot be fully appreciated by land, for a complete understanding of its wonders you must take to the skies.

$e best way of doing this is not via any motorized method, but by helium. Take a thrilling hot air balloon ride and you’ll witness the real colours of the desert, the unique way the city fades into a fuzzy glory against the dry African sky, and above all the soothing silence of nature. It involves an early start (normally around 5am for the best views), but it’s worth

of Marrakech in the Atlas Mountains, you’ll traverse rapid-running rivers, and experience breathtaking drops. Of course it’s perfectly safe, but your heart will be in your mouth for a sensational excursion with a di#erence.

HOW TO GET THEREBMI has just launched a new route to Marrakech from London Heathrow (www."ybmi.com). Don’t forget to upgrade to their exceptional business class if you can; it’s second to none.www.!ybmi.com

the lack of sleep as the tranquility you’ll feel as you and a signi!cant other sip a champagne breakfast aboard your own private hot air balloon "ight is exquisite. $is experience couldn’t be more recommended (www.travellink.ma).

EXHILARATINGFor something a bit more white-knuckle, you’ll need to go more white-water. Rafting that is. An unknown gem just an hour outside