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My Okinawa Experience 私の沖縄の経験

Catherine Dora Goya (USA) University of the Ryukyus

This year is an experience that will remain in my heart forever. The people I met and

my experiences of this year helped me realize the kindness we must show to people of different cultures.

When I first came to Okinawa I did not understand the language well, and I was scared

to live alone for the first time; once I got used to it, however, and whenever I asked for help everyone around me was willing to come to my aid.

My class on Okinawan culture and history was the biggest factor in my understanding of Okinawan culture; it was taught by Akama-Sensei. She not only taught us important events in Okinawan history, but was able to explain both past and present Okinawan culture. We went on several field trips to visit the different gusukus around the main islands, and went to Kudaka Island by ferry. The origin story for Okinawa was much more interesting than any other origin story that I had studied. I am still surprised by the greenness of the island, and the flora and sacred spaces.

I went to Iejima with the other Kempi students and

stayed with a host family who helped us他experience its history and old as well as current culture. My group, consisting of Arisa, Rie, and I, was taken around different places on the island by our host family, learned how to make Okinawan soba and saataa andagii, and took us to a dance studio.

We learned how to dance for Eisa. At first the dance was slow so I thought it would be easy to learn, but when I tried dancing with other people I found out that I was wrong. After learning the dance, I looked up to them, and thanked them.

This picture is of when Reiry, Arisa and I starting climbing down the mountain in Iejima. The climb was very steep so I was very worried about coming down, but fortunately none of us fell. We not only got to see the main island of Okinawa but also all of Iejima; the view from the top was breathtaking.

One of my favorite gusuku in Okinawa is Nakagusuku Castle. I have only been there once, but it was a huge influence on how I saw Okinawan architecture.

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It was sunny and breezy when I went, so we explored the grounds. There were only a few clouds in the sky, so it was the perfect day to take pictures and look at the details of the walls. What impacted me the most was a guide who used simple English to help the people who did not have a good grasp of English. There was a king that was betrayed at Nakagusuku Castle. In the end he was safe, however the person who

betrayed him was killed. In Nakagusuku Village, it is said the person who was killed actually did not betray the king; others believe he actually was unfaithful.

It is possible to see three distinct periods of architectural styles when walking around; these are all combined into one castle. For me, this represents how you can grow from past experiences and to continually try to improve and build up oneself.

Exploring famous locations in Okinawa is one

experience, but experiencing the forests in northern Okinawa was a completely different one.

The famous areas were easy to walk, and were built to take in the surrounding scenery. There were people in the beginnings of Okinawan history that lived in the forests.

When I went hiking with Taoyu, my Indonesian friend Fiko, and my teacher from Ryudai, we were able to see not only plants and animals in nature, but remains of old houses along a river; we also found broken pottery and roof tiles. When we picked these up, we learned that there are researchers who study these old sites and that we must put the relics back. When we go hiking in the mountains without thinking, these artifacts would

be lost, so I was grateful for my teacher for leading us. I discovered a surprising number of wild carnivores. The Churaumi Aquarium is the best place to learn about the local marine life. I loved

studying the different species of animals, including those that live in the ocean. I could stay for hours when I went to the aquarium. The Churaumi Aquarium is truly a special place; they not only keep whale sharks, they have a tank to exhibit the ecosystems around Okinawa.

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My two favorite tanks were the poisonous marine animals and the shark tank. You can learn surprising things, such as how all types of animals adapt to their environments, how they hide, and how they defend themselves. Unfortunately I was not able to look at all of the exhibits, so my goal is to spend a whole day walking around the aquarium studying the wild marine animals of Okinawa.

I have made many friends that love the Japanese language and Okinawa.

Okinawa and its people have a beautiful culture of welcoming and good food, and took us to many different places. My friends from different countries and I had different opinions on Okinawa and its history, however by becoming friends with the locals and learning about how they live, we tried to learn everything we could about Okinawa.

When I first came to Okinawa I was not able to speak Japanese well, so I could not ask the people around me about the history of the area I lived in, or of historical locations.

The only place I knew were tourist locations. At first that was fine, but I felt I wanted to find myself. During this year in Okinawa I visited many different places and talked to many different people. I became friends with people who were passionate about studying Okinawa, and we were able to learn from one another.

It is truly sad that I must leave such an astonishing place, but I can teach my family and friends what I made, played, read, and learned here. I want more Americans to know of the beauty of Okinawa, and I hope to teach them about the lives that are lived here.

My family does not know much about Okinawa and its culture. I want them to know about the Okinawa that my great grandfather grew up in. I want to teach my siblings’ children about Okinawa as well.

I hope to return to Okinawa, because I am interested in sanshin performances. I hope

to teach my family about the traditional music that is enjoyed by the people of Okinawa.

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A Far-Off, Familiar Island 遠く離れた親しい島

Sayuri Valeria Tengan Maria (Argentina)

University of the Ryukyus

A year has passed since I came to Okinawa, and it has gone by in an instant.

Remembering the time I lived in (then) Tomigusuku Village as a child, I met the current

Okinawa and made many new memories, this time from a different perspective. I am

thankful to be given the rare opportunity to attend an Okinawan university.

At the University of the Ryukyus, I studied Okinawan

history and culture along with Japanese language. Argentina

was lacking in materials related to Okinawa, but I was

surprised to find that the university library had designated

such archives, such as the “Okinawa Archives”, “Okinawa

Special Collection Digital Archives”, “Ryukyuan Language

Audio Database”, and “Special Photograph Database”; it

made me want to work harder to improve my Japanese

reading.

What I noticed when I arrived in Okinawa was that the

perspectives of Okinawa as seen from South America, mainland

Japan, and even how my grandparents see their homeland of

Okinawa are all different. I found differences between my home country of Argentina and

Okinawa after living here for one year and experiencing its current events, climate, and the

lifestyle, however there was no difference in the kindness and warm heart of Okinawans

both at home and back on the island.

My interest in Okinawa deepened as I studied its history as

an exchange student, and in turn, traced my own personal

history.

For example, I learned for the first time that my great

grandfather emigrated during the “Sotetsu (Cycad Palm) Hell”

period as I was reading an Okinawan history book for my classes.

I never asked my relatives the specific reason why he left

Okinawa; however when I learned of the “Sotetsu Hell” I called

Argentina and was able to confirm that he indeed emigrated

around that time. It was an important discovery for me, as until

that time I had never heard of the “Sotetsu Hell”. I became further interested in Okinawa

as I looked through collections of photos of pre-war Okinawa, looking for information that

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is unavailable in Argentina, trying to discover what kind of place my ancestors’ homeland

was.

I was able to study the history of Okinawan fine arts and crafts at

the Okinawa Prefectural University of the Arts, which was something

I always wanted to know. It was a dream to be able to learn the

particularities of traditional Okinawan crafts, the origins and

meanings of designs, and analyze Chinese and Southeast Asian

influences on art pieces.

I was able to audit a course called “Introduction to Modern Art”,

which was a fun opportunity to learn about what I studied in

Argentina in Japanese. I also went to a nearby bingata studio, as I felt

that it is the closest to graphic design among the different traditional

Okinawan crafts.

After discussing with the Sensei of the studio, I was allowed to experience bingata

making; not only did I learn the techniques, I learned about the culture of the outlying

Okinawan islands from her. It was a great experience to be able to interact with the locals.

Before coming to study, Okinawa was simply the homeland of my ancestors; however

after studying for a year, meeting many Uchinanchu and experiencing Okinawan society,

I now feel that the Uchinanchu descendants make up a small section of the diversity of

Okinawa.

The island is now not only the far-off place where my ancestors were born, but my own

homeland where my roots and my history lie.

I now would like to continue to study this Okinawa that I am so proud of, and become

a bridge between Okinawa and the different countries Uchinanchus emigrated to. I hope

to contribute to strengthening the ties between Okinawa and the next generation of

overseas Uchinanchu. Thank you to the people of Okinawa for my year here.

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My Encounter with Okinawa: Unforgettable Memories in Life 沖縄との出会い 人生のいい記憶に

Taoyu Zhang (China)

University of the Ryukyus

Almost one year has passed since I arrived in Okinawa on April 13, 2017. Before coming

to coming to Okinawa, I just had the impression that it was an island of beautiful oceans.

For a foreigner like me, the only Okinawa I saw through the photos on the internet were

of emerald oceans, blue skies, and beautiful fish.

However after living here for a year, I discovered new things about Okinawa, one being about war

and peace.

In Okinawa, the phrase “the only place in Japan that experienced a land battle during

World War II” is often used to describe the Battle of Okinawa. It is said that the casualties

in Okinawa from this battle are said to be around 200,000 people, including military and

civilian casualties. During the war, there were people who hid themselves in caves; I felt

a little bit of the despair they must have felt when I entered one.

I went to the Peace Memorial Park on June 23, Okinawa Memorial Day. I studied the

Battle of Okinawa thoroughly at the Peace Memorial Museum.

Another new facet of Okinawa that I uncovered was of its history of emigration, which

spans over 100 years. People immigrated to different countries for several reasons. It was

inspiring to learn about the friendships cultivated by Uchinanchu and the people in the

different countries when I saw theater productions and attended parties about Okinawan

emigration.

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On July 2, protected by the gods, I visited Kudaka Island which is said to be where the

gods live. I went with my Japanese friend, and we laughed and prayed on the island fabled

to be closest to “Nirai Kanai”, the mythical place past the sea. We were able to see the

beautiful colors of the ocean, unique to small islands. It was the first time I felt the beauty

of Okinawan oceans, as well as the faith of the people of Okinawa.

On August 12, I visited the Prefectural Museum and Art Museum with the other Kempi

students, going around the permanent exhibits listening to a docent. We learned of the

history between the Ryukyu Kingdom, China, and Japan, as well as the importance of the

“Bridge of Nations” Bell. We also studied immigration in the Ryukyuan Kingdom era, and

the subsequent emigration in the Okinawa Prefecture era.

From August 14th to the 18th, I did a one-week internship at the Nishihara Social

Welfare Council. I learned a lot of things I couldn’t learn in school.

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The staff at the Council were very kind, and earnestly taught me many different things

related to social welfare.

Over the course of this week, I mainly observed the work done in the elderly care

department and the Disability Support Center. I was able to understand a little bit of the

Japanese welfare system while I interacted with the staff and helped out a little bit. The current

Japanese system has evolved from nursing homes and other specialized institutions to

community welfare centers and at-home care. This system has rounded out to where community

members help each other out, mostly as at-home care volunteers with financial backing by the

government. There are also many different classes and activities that are organized for the

health of the elderly, as well as counseling services for both the elderly and the disabled.

The Okinawan concepts towards family are similar to China, so I believe these experiences

will be viable when I return home.

I went on a 3-day overnight trip to Iejima with the other Kempi students in the end of

August. I was touched by the host families in Okinawa. On the last day, we saw the famous

Iejima “Niiban Gazimaaru”, a tree that two soldiers lived in during the war.

In September, I traveled to western Japan for a week-long trip.

It was my first time going to mainland Japan; I got to see the advanced public

transportation and history of Osaka Castle in Osaka, Japan’s second largest metropolis,

the classic Japanese Kyoto, and the modern Kobe. I found many similarities between the

historical sites of Japan and China; I believe the old architecture and roots of popular

foods are all evidence of friendly relations between China and Japan.

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On November 23, we went on a tour of Naha and experienced traditional

lacquerware painting. We toured the area around Kokusai Street along with a tour

guide, and in the afternoon we tried out lacquerware painting, a traditional

Okinawan craft. Lastly, we saw an exhibit on Ryukyuan bingata. This tour gave me a

new understanding of Kokusai Street; until the tour I only thought of it as a shopping

area meant for tourists, however I learned that it was a representation of the

Okinawans’ resolve to look past the sadness after the war and look towards a new

life and new happiness. It was inspiring to feel the spirit of creating a new future of

prosperity.

I participated in the ceremony for the 20th anniversary of sister relations between

Okinawa and Fujian. The vice governor came to Okinawa an interacted with many people

who work to maintain friendly relations, and had discussions on the future of the

friendship; there was also exhibits showcasing both Okinawa’s and Fujian’s traditional

cultures.

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On December 2, I participated in a party organized by the Okinawa Exchange Student

Promotion Association. I also attended an exchange event with 1st year students from

University of the Ryukyus Middle School on December 5; the Kempi students and school

students each introduced one another’s cultures, and asked each other questions.

On December 9, I participated in the 2nd Exchange Student Mixer at Ryudai. I mainly

introduced my country using the panels the Kempi students made in May.

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In January, I visited Itokazu Castle Ruins, Tamagusuku Ruin, and Sefa Utaki. The walls of

Itokazu still remain, even to this day.

I thought Tamagusuku was a lovely gusuku, the castle gates are in an interesting shape;

it was also purposely built to face the sunrise of the summer solstice. The shape of the

castle mimics a seashell, as a symbol of the Ryukyu Kingdom’s prosperity. To me, it felt

like there was some sort of connection to Chinese Feng Shui.

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Sefa Utaki is said to have spiritual powers; I believe it is because forests and water

represent the energy of life. Majiri Ogimi was said to have prayed there.

Past that, Kudaka Island can be seen; it gave me a glimpse into the world of Okinawan

religion.

Later, I visited the Futenma Shrine. It was a little different from the toriis in mainland

Japan, and looked uniquely Okinawan.

In the middle of February, the other Kempi students and I traveled to Kyoto for an

overnight retreat. Over the course of 3 days, we visited and studied Nijo Castle, Ryoanji

Temple, the Kyoto Imperial Palace, the Gion District, and the Fushimi Inari Shine.

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On February 17, I went to the northernmost Yanbaru area of Okinawa and observed

the wildlife. I had a lot of fun walking around the forest, looking for frogs and observing

the plant life.

This study program has allowed me to experience religion and nature in Okinawa, as well

as the culture of mainland Japan. Comparing the cultures of Japan and China show many

similarities, owing to their deep historical connection. Since Okinawa and mainland Japan

are both islands, it is easy to see the spiritual importance placed on nature. Okinawa and

Fujian Province are very similar in their climate, wildlife, and culture, most likely due to their

distance and their history with one another spanning centuries.

In international exchange, simply opening up a book or the internet is not enough; it is

important to go to the location and experience it for oneself. I believe once we can

understand one another, it is possible to clear up misunderstandings, which can then

prevent disagreements and wars.

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When I go back to my country, the first thing I want to do is to tell my friends to make

Okinawa their first choice if they want to travel in Japan. I would especially recommend it

to people who want to study nature and wildlife; since the culture is similar to China’s,

those who want to observe the social welfare system for the elderly would also find it

fruitful. Since the time of the Ryukyu Kingdom, the islands of Okinawa was said to be the

“Bridge of Nations” due to its position in international trade; even now, its unique history

and location lends itself as the bridge of international exchange.

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Experiencing the Homeland 祖国の経験

Shawn Robert Tadashi Higa (Canada) University of the Ryukyus

This year I experienced many new things and learned a lot about the culture and history

of Okinawa, thanks to Okinawa Prefecture, the Foundation, my school, relatives, and my own effort. This has been an important year for me.

On June 16, I visited the Haebaru Cultural Center and the Okinawa Army Hospital Cave

#20 for my course on Okinawan history. The content at the Haebaru Cultural Center focused mainly on the Battle of Okinawa.

For example, they had mannequins of injured soldiers being tended to by Himeyuri students who were deployed as nurses in a diorama representing an army hospital. This exhibit helped give a sense of the cramped space inside.

Other exhibits listed the names of Haebaru residents who passed away in the battle in a trench. The trench was not that big, but several thousand names were inscribed on it. Artifacts left behind by soldiers were exhibited as a testimony to fallen soldiers.

Afterwards we walked to the actual army hospital. The exhibit inside the center gave small sense of what it would be like, but the actual cave was much darker; I imagine it must have been very humid and hot because of how many people were stuffed inside.

I visited the Peace Memorial Museum on

June 23 for Okinawa Memorial Day, after I had already learned a bit on the Battle of Okinawa in class and at the Haebaru Cultural Center.

I toured the museum for the first time on my own. The many exhibits helped me to better understand the severity of the Battle of Okinawa.

After looking at the exhibits, we left the museum and went to the Peace Memorial Park. The Cornerstones of Peace, the Flame of Peace, and ocean past the cliffs created a peaceful, yet solemn atmosphere. I cannot forget the solemn experience. Lastly, we participated in the memorial ceremony. Children sang, high school students read poems, and Prime Minister Abe and other politicians made speeches.

I went to Iejima for a homestay experience from August 28 to the 30th; we stayed over

in the homes of Iejima residents.

The first day, we visited many different locations, such as Ahasha Cave, Wajii, and Nyatiya Cave, and the Houkon Monument. At night, I went to see an eisa group’s practice.

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The next day, we went to Ie Beach to hang

out with everyone, and later climbed Gusuku Mountain. It was a great experience to be able to climb a mountain for the first time.

On the final day, I helped my host family gather grass clipping, then returned to mainland Okinawa.

On December 31, I traveled to Sukuda in Nago to stay with my relatives for New Year’s.

They took me sightseeing in the afternoon. First they took me to Nakijin Castle, and before that we went to Shurijo, Nakagusuku, and Urasoe Castles. The cherry blossoms at Nakijin weren’t blooming quite yet, but the view of the mountains and the ocean was very beautiful.

Next, we went to Kori Island. The scenery at both Kori and Yagaji Islands were beautiful as well. We returned to my relative’s house, ate dinner, and spent a quiet New Year’s together.

We went on a retreat in Kyoto from February 14 to 16. We arrived around noon, then

went on a bus tour after a quick lunch. We first went to Nijo Castle, and after a small tour we walked around by ourselves. I was surprised to see palms, because I assumed they didn’t grow in mainland Japan.

Afterwards we went to Ryoanji Temple. The gardens there were very pretty, and had a relaxing effect.

The next morning, we went on a guided tour of the Kyoto Imperial Palace. It was interesting to learn about the connection between the Imperial Palace and Nijo Castle during the end of the Edo period. The architecture here was wonderful.

Later, we had free time to roam with our groups.

We met up with the other groups and saw Ginkakuji Temple, the Nanzenji Temple Aqueduct, Yasaka Shrine, Sanjusangendo Temple, and Kiyomizudera Temple. All of the places were very interesting, but it was a very hectic day. Later we joined the rest of the groups and had dinner after going to Kyoto Tower. We left to go back to Okinawa the next day.

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I went to many different festivals over the course of this year, big and small. The first festival I attended was the Naha Haarii (Boat Races). I missed the races because I arrived a little late, but the festival itself was fun and reminded me of festivals back in Lethbridge.

The next festival I went to was the 10,000-Person Eisa Festival. All of the eisa performances in the parade were very good, and it was amazing to see so many people performing.

A Tug-of-War event was held on October 8 as part of the Naha Festival. The world-record size rope was very big, and it was a very fun event.

The Oktoberfest I went to in Chatan was very fun because of all the beer, food, and different international cultures. They historical parade at the Shuri Festival was very interesting. The Nago Flower Festival was fun; the view from the Nago Shrine was beautiful, even if there were only a couple cherry blossoms in bloom. The last festival I attended was the Ryukyu Lantern Festival in Yomitan; I went at night instead of during the day, and the glowing lanterns were beautiful.

This year was truly wonderful; I learned a lot about the culture and history of Okinawa,

and my Japanese improved, even though I am still not so good at conversations. Okinawan culture is very interesting and diverse, from the music, lacquerware, pottery

bingata, and many others. This champloo culture feels very familiar to me, because Canada’s culture is also diverse and mosaic-like. It was great to be able to meet relatives that lived so far away. I will not forget the experiences I had living here.

After I return to Canada, the most important thing I must do is to teach my family about Okinawa and its culture. Since I am the only one that can speak Japanese, I would like to teach them as well; I also want to teach them about our relatives in Okinawa. I want to return to Okinawa, hopefully for the next Uchinanchu Festival. Thank you very much for giving me the opportunity to come here.