my works in glam november 2014

8/10/2019 my works in Glam November 2014

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EDITOR SINDHU NAIR

CHIEF FASHION CORRESPONDEN T DEBRINA ALIYAH

SENIOR CORRESPONDE NTS ABIGAIL MATHIAS

EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI

AYSWARYA MURTHY

PHOTOGRAPHER ROB ALTAMIRANO

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR VENKAT REDDY

DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR HANAN ABU SIAM

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR AYUSH INDRAJITH

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER MAHESHWAR REDDY B

SENIOR MANAGER MARKETING FREDRICK ALPHONSO

MANAGER MARKETING SAKALA A. DEBRASS

ASSISTANT MANAGER MARKETING THOMAS JOSE

MATHEWS CHERIAN

SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANTS HASAN REKKAB

LYDIA YOUSSEF

SENIOR ACCOUNTANT PRATAP CHANDRAN

SENIOR DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE BIKRAM SHRESTHA

DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT ARJUN TIMILSINA

BHIMAL RAI

BASANTHA. P

PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF YOUSUF JASSEM AL DARWISH

CHIEF EXECUTIVE SANDEEP SEHGAL

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT ALPANA ROY

VICE PRESIDENT RAVI RAMAN

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GLAMSOCIAL MEDIA

The Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russiaenters its 29th season with headliners

including Alena Akhmadullina, Dasha Gauser,Ester Abner, Yasya Minochkina showcasingtheir SS15 collections. Stay up to date with

show highlights and look of the day picks fromour team on our Facebook page.

COMING UP

EVENTS OF THE MONTH

Oficial Launch of Per Lei CoutureNov 6

Per Lei Couture Boutique, The Pearl QatarThe citys latest multi-brand boutique, Per Lei

Couture, will be hosting an opening event night

to officially launch its arrival into the local fashionscene. The boutique is currently home to one ofthe most varied collections of labels includingTeatum Jones, Gyodor Folan, and Delpozo. The

event will feature London-based designer OsmanYousefzada as the guest of honor for the evening.

Makers MarketNovember 15 and 16

Design Shop, Virginia CommonwealthUniversity Qatar

A special two-day trunk show and marketfeaturing an array of unique finds which are all

handmade and independently produced bymixed-medium designers. Hosted by the Design

Shop, the event is part of VCUQs effort tohighlight the creative work of its students andthe community. The designers come from all

fields including fashion, homeware, jewellery andgifts. Visitors will also get the chance to meet

and interact with the independent creativecreators.

What do you get when you put a gorgeous modelon the sky-high Eiffel Tower? Thats what global

fashion show organiser Jessica Minh Anh did in agravity-defying editorial as part of her J Autumn

Fashion Show. We get an exclusive interview withthe fashion entrepreneur on her

out-of-the-world ideas.


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SAVE

VSSPLURGE

SAVE1 Floral Cropped Top,

QR1842 Floral Skirt, QR456

3Cut-out Sweater, QR2764 Leather Pants, QR1,146

5 Leather Gloves, QR184All items available fromH&M at Landmark andVillaggio Mall.

SPLURGE1 Harley-print Coat, QR2,033,

Issa, Etoile Boutique.2Harley-print Skirt, QR2,295,

Issa, Etoile Boutique.3 Leather-insert Top, QR1,870,

Karl Lagerfeld.

4Stretch Leather Leggings,5,780, Matthew Williamson, TheGate Mall.

5 Lambskin Gloves with Iris Print,price on request, Dior, VillaggioMall.

3

3

SPLIT SIDE

1

Two of this seasons major trends could not be more

than polar opposite apart. The 20th century art-inspiredfloral motifs and the rise of the tough biker leather evokeboth femininity and no-nonsense silhouette-driven chic.

Separately, they may present different looks, but whenworn together, they form an underlying narrative that many

designers are trying to convey this season: the strength ofwomen through the feminine touch. A full leather look is

necessary this Autumn, and must be delicately accompaniedby a floral overcoat or Art Deco-inspired accessories. We are

totally lusting after the long Dior Flower glove that brings the

best of the two trends together.

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

1

2

2

4

4

5

5

1

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AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW

THE BALLERINA BUTTERFLY

The Ballerina Butterfly Brooch, co-designed by contemporaryfine jewellery ar tist Cindy Chao and actress, entrepreneur andphilanthropist Sarah Jessica Parker, was auctioned on October

7th at the Sothebys Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels and JadeiteSale for QR4,413,980. QR1,092,569 in proceeds from the sale willbenefit the New York City Ballet, a cause which both designer areextremely passionate about. The brooch was completed over thecourse of two years, inspired by the graceful beauty and eleganceof ballet. It displays the sensibility, delicate structure, strengthand mellifluous movement exhibited by a ballerina. Cindy beganthe creative process by building a wax model of the piece, asshe does with all of her Black Label Masterpiece creations. The

'Ballerina Butterfly' brooch melds Chaos craftsmanship as oneof the jewellery worlds premier artists together with Sarahsdiscerning eye for style and design.Constructed of a titanium and 18-karat gold body, it features acushion-cut fancy brown diamond weighing 26.27 carats, threerough brown diamond slices of 47.71 carats, three pieces ofconch pearls weighing 7.25 carats in total, and is surrounded by4,698 diamonds and fancy-colored diamonds weighing 98.09carats in total. I have had the great pleasure of knowing Cindy

and her work for several years, and it has been an incrediblyspecial experience to collaborate with her, Sarah says. Cindysjewellery designs are true works of art; they capture the eye andimagination in a memorable way. I am so pleased to partner withher on this project, which benef its the wonderful work of the NewYork City Ballet, an organisation that is close to my heart.


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36 \ TRENDS

CHANEL HAUTE JEWELLERY

Chanels Autumn Winter Couturecollection presentation wascomplemented by the houses stunninghaute-jewellery pieces, which drawinspiration from the rich social lifeof Coco Chanel. Paying homage tothe caf society of the 1920's, whichwas a favourite meeting point for the

creative and artistic crowd of the time.Mademoiselle Chanel was a well-known patron of the arts and an activeparticipant in the cultural scene. Thejewellery collection represents the spiritof Chanels quest for novelty and theatmosphere of freedom associated withthe 1920's. Breaking free from codesand traditions, the pieces feature rose,

white and yellow gold mingled withprecious stones, with the camellia flower a favourite of Chanel's making a fewappearances.

RAD HOURANI FALL WINTER 2014

Jordan-born designer Rad Hourani,

a cult favourite of the Paris fashionscene, presented his Fall Winter 2014show at the residence of the CanadianAmbassador to France. The thirty-two-year old designer who specialises inunisex pieces was raised in Canada andhas made a name for his design-drivenconcepts on the international scene.His distinctively minimalistic, unisex

pieces, are not necessarily the aestheticsthat are common to designers hailingfrom this region ,but it b een changingthe stereotype. The current collectionplays with plenty of tight, elongated andwrapped forms, worn by male and femalemodels in square-toed shoes and open-toed boots. The wide lapels and plethoraof pockets add a functional element to

Houranis outerwear, while a series ofpieces in leather and others, in sequinsadd some dressier, more obviouslyluxurious elements to play with. Coloursstick to deep dark green, black, and anequally brooding metallic tweed.


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ATELIER SWAROVSKI X VIKTOR & ROLF

Atelier Swarovski goes avant-garde this season in a special collaboration

with fashion house Viktor & Rolf, that features statement pieces withsparkling and matte crystals in black diamonds and Jet colour ways. Thecollection has two ranges that explore b oth the matte and glisteningtexture Velvet Rock, that embeds crystals within velvet flockingand Frozen Crystal that juxtaposes matte and sparkling crystals. Wewanted to put crystals on edge and give them a sense of mystery, as wellas play with their contrasting matte and shining effects. By juxtaposingsparkling and velvet-covered crystals, we emphasise their brillianceand add a touch of surreal glamour. Through a long history of creative

partnership and mutual understanding, we were able to achieve thesetechnically difficult pieces together with Atelier Swarovski, the designduo explains. The collection was inspired by the interiors of Viktor &Rolf s first flagship boutique in Paris, which is rendered entirely in greyfelt. The Frozen Crystal collection is now available at the Swarovskiboutique in Landmark Mall.

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WAFA BY WAFA

After the success of her clothing label,

Dubai-based designer Wafa, has venturedinto the realm of accessories with herdebut jewellery line wafa by wafa.The pieces cater to the modern globalcitizen, much like the designer herself who is not overtly trend-conscious,but rather influenced in style by traveland experience. The wafa by wafapieces represent the duality present in

women, a juxtaposition of the softer,sensitive, feminine side against thebolder personalities. Still very muchdriven by her multicultural upbringingand extensive travels, Wafa presents hertake on jewellery for the modern woman.Wafas first collection is an ode to thenomad, the drifter, the gypsy. From theMaasai of Kenya, to the Akha of Burma,

the collection is inspired by tribal cultureand the transiency of todays world. Shebrings to life a collection of narratives, anamalgamation of the different facets ofpersonalities; from yogi meets glamazon,to jetsetter meets bohemian romantic.


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THE REBELLIOUS SPIRIT GOES HEAD TO HEAD

WITH THE COLD COMFORT OF AUTUMN IN

FOUR MUSTHAVE TRENDS THIS SEASON.CENTRE STAGE

LEATHER

A full-on leather dress that nips at all theright places is the ultimate investment

this season, mirroring the leather trendthat popped up all the over the runways:

eye-catching pleats at Lanvin, leather andshearling contrast at Anthony Vaccarello,

woven African tribal influences at Balmainand waist-cinched numbers at Balenciaga.

Buckled leatherdress by Jason Wuat Farfetch

Versace

Paule Ka

Karl Lagerfeld

Tod'sLanvin

Leather pleatedpants by Vionnet at

STYLEBOP

CrocodileBackpack byThe Row atFarfetch

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RETRO

It just does not go away but weare loving it. Referencing the

flower power of the pre-millennialdecades are Saint Laurentssparkling shift dresses and

Valentinos geometric visual f iesta.Delpozo

Saint Laurentby Hedi Slimane

Satin Rufle Mini skirtby Anthony Vaccarellofrom STYLEBOP

Rabbit-Felt VirgineShaded Hat by MaisonMichel from STYLEBOP

Matthew Williamson

Matthew Williamson

Max & Co

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Whats the key piece in this collection and why?I would like to believe that every piece is important and key.What female icon could be the face of this collection?

Grimes, the singer. We think of her going to places like the BurningMan Festival. A strong, independent, experimental woman!

What was the initial spark or starting point for this season?Iridescence, pastels, layering were some of the words that sparkedthe start of this collection.

Can you sum u p the collection in one word?Its beautifully illusive!

What was the biggest challenge you encountered when creating thiscollection?Challenge I am not sure, but it was an exciting and a new journeyfor us, experimenting with layering silhouettes yet keeping themairy and light at the same time.

TAKE FIVE WITH

MANISH ARORATHE STELLAR DESIGNER SPEAKSABOUT HIS SS15 COLLECTION.

50 \ TRENDS

TRENDS / 51


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TRENDS /51

Pounding hard on the runway these days are shoes that are notjust meant for walking, they look as though they are ready to

rumble for the tough walk. Sneakers, military-inspired boots,and sturdy loafers bring an extra edge from run-of-the-millballet flats, giving an instant lift to your wardrobe. We also

suggest taking a walk on the wild side, by including a pair ofstand-out stilettos for the party season to complete your shoecollection. Its all in the details, with a tuft of fur from Fendi

and an ankle-lock inspired number from DS quared.

READYTO RUMBLE

Coach AW2014

Crystalembellishedpumps by JuliaHaart at Farfetch

Dr Martensat Farfetch

New Balanceat FarFetch

Fendi

Fendi

Positano loafersfrom CB Made

In Italy

DSquared

DSquared

MCQ by AlexanderMcQueen at FarFetch

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64 \ FASHION

THE COLLABORATION OF THE YEARBETWEEN ALEXANDER WANG AND H&M HAS

ALL THE ELEMENTS THAT DEFINE FASHION

AT THIS MOMENT IN TIME.

GOODSPORTBY DEBRINA ALIYAH

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66 \ FASHION

Theres a new ease to fashion in its currentobsession with all things urban, all thingscomfortable to run about in, all thingssleek and playful, all things that justsound so Alexander Wang. There is lit-

tle need to rattle off the curriculum vitaeof this young star who has taken centrestage in the past couple of seasons, ex-cept to note that there is just somethinguncanny about Wangs ability to consis-

tently stay on the urban perspective of womenswear, without everalienating the feminine element. The appeal of that tough, yet chiccity girl on-the-go who is resoundingly New Yorker, has now goneglobal, and when Wangs collaboration with H&M drops in storeson 6 November, we will no longer worry about having to change

when we step out of the gym. Before readily joining the queue onthe launch day, the designer gives us an exclusive preview of thecollaboration and his views on the rise of active wear.

The rise of active wear in fashion truly plays to your strength and

aesthetics. Did you ever think that sportswear would have become socelebrated now?Alexander Wang X H&M is a collection based on performanceand sportswear. Ive always been inspired and intrigued by themake and technology of sportswear, and the advancements in

how performance clothing is constructed. The pieces really haveto outlast and outperform, because theyre catering to the bodyin its most active state. I live in gym clothes, so its a natural partof my thinking when it comes to design. Ive always wanted todesign a collection of performance and sportswear pieces, andthis collaboration with H&M is the perfect opportunity.

This shift, along with minimalism, has really changed the perceptionof 'dressing up' for women, how do you think this will reflect the

fashion landscape in the coming seasons?

The H&M collection is inspired by performance wear andsportswear, which are categories with an enormous reach. Itswhat people wear at all times of the day, every day. Whetheryoure athletic or not, as long as you live an active lifestyle, thereare pieces that cater to ones needs. I didnt want to target a

"IVE ALWAYS

BEEN INSPIRED

AND INTRIGUED

BY THE

MAKE ANDTECHNOLOGY

OF SPORTSWEAR,

AND THE

ADVANCEMENTS

IN HOW

PERFORMANCE

CLOTHING ISCONSTRUCTED.

FASHION / 67


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FASHION /67

specific customer with this collaboration. Presently, its normal tobuy a piece of performance clothing that is not only to be worn forworking out, but it b ecomes part of your everyday wardrobe.

What were some exciting materials and concepts that inspired you in

this collection with H&M?Functionality is important, especially in this collection. Weutilised techniques such as bonding, welding and foam injectiontreatments in select pieces, that feel innovative and modern. Ilove how its functional details both keep the body warm whilealso having an elevated aesthetic and quality, like the windproofand water-resistant seamless welded parka.

The H&M collection also extends to Objects - something that is partof your brand. How do you curate these objects to best represent

Alexander Wang?I launched an Alexander Wang Objects collection a couple ofyears ago. It is a curated edition of everyday items representingthe scale of the Alexander Wang lifestyle. I like looking ateveryday items and giving it a different context or treatment to

add a different point of view. For the Alexander Wang X H&Mcollection, the objects complete the collection, as well as addinga new element to the H&M designer collaborations. There arepieces that are both practical and playful, like the yoga mat or theboxing glove key rings.

From your o wn label, to Balenciaga and of course collaborativeprojects like this wi th H&M, how do you strike the balance of creatinga clear creative vision for each woman you design for?It is a clear distinction; Alexander Wang is p ersonal, a brand thatI founded, and its up to me to set my own codes and vocabulary;we are based in New York.Balenciaga is one of the most renowned Parisian fashion houses,with a long heritage and a well-established DNA. Its my roleto continue keeping the codes relevant, while evolving them

and moving the brand forward. The Alexander Wang X H&Mcollection, as a one- off collaboration, is its own thing entirely.I have had some elements from athletic wear in previouscollections, this is the first full capsule collection rooted inperformance wear.

"WE UTILISED

TECHNIQUES

SUCH ASBONDING,

WELDING AND

FOAM INJECTION

TREATMENTS IN

SELECT PIECES

THAT FEEL

INNOVATIVE ANDMODERN."

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SPORTS, PERFORMANCEAND STYLE

Technical details and fabrics are used forboth function and fashion with the womens

collection of thirty-eight exclusivelydesigned garments, as well as accessoriesand a playful take on everyday objects. The

result is a collection to be worn on the street,in the gym, at the club the way women live

their lives today. Quick-dry black runningtops and perforated laser-cut shorts,

seamless performance T-shirts, tank tops andcrop tops are knitted in a pointelle pattern

with a hidden tongue-in-cheek message thatbecomes visible when worn as well as sports

bras, compression crop tops, tights, anddresses form the apparel section. Winteressentials including sweatshirts, leggings

and outerwear, are complemented with funaccessories with a definitive sports theme.

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FASHION /69

Wangs aesthetics are urban look, which translates to the streets of cities allaround the world. This is a very exciting collaboration, because Alexanderwanted to create new pieces rather than look back to his archive. It meansthat H&M customers around the world will have the chance to buy theseexclusive pieces, which will only be available in this one-off collaboration.

BEHINDTHE SCENESH&MS CREATIVE ADVISORMARGARETA VAN DEN

BOSCH TAKES US BEHIND

THE SCENES TO THE MAKING

OF THE COLLABORATION.

Sportswear is a global trend. All around the world,people are living a healthier lifestyle, making fitness aregular part of their day. Earlier this year we launchedour expanded H&M Sport concept, with piecesspecially designed for more activities than ever. Wealso provided outfits for the Swedish Olympic andParalympic teams at Sochi, and have a long-termpartnership with tennis player Tomas Berdych. Activewear will only become even more important, so itsperfect time to have this performance and sportsweardesigner collaboration with Alexander Wang.

Once weve agreed on

the idea, we then give thecollaborating designersas much creative freedomas possible, so that weget the true essence ofthe brand. We then talkabout fabrics and how toproduce the pieces,creating the first samplesand going through aseries of fittings with thedesigner until everyone ishappy with the finishedproduct. It is hard work,but its also such anenjoyable process,because we get to seethe workings of some ofthe worlds greatestdesigners at first hand.

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O

n a quest to find the per fect pair of pants thatflatters the curves, is the right length, andcan be worn with killer stilettos, the brandAlice + Olivia was born along with the nowlegendary pair of Stacey Pants.

The success turned Alice + Olivia into a

full-fledged fashion and lifestyle label, butit is Stacey Benedets quirky and curious passion for life thatinjects the whimsical factor into the brands offerings. A devotedAshtanga yogi who practices daily, the designer is also a steadfastsupporter of charity endeavors including Baby Buggy and Ronald

Mcdonald House. Theres a sense of playfulness and fantasy inher own dressing style, something that has become a trademarkfor the designer.I like to tell every woman to be themselves! You have to thinkabout what your personal look is and go with that. Mine changesevery day, but I think its about understanding your colour palette

and your body and not trying to be something youre not! shesays.

With Alice + Olivia opening its standalone boutique in Qatarthis year, Stacey dishes out some golden styling tips to fit all stylesand shapes, using key pieces from the collection.

ALICE + OLIVIA

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

STACEYWEARS

THE PANTS

ONCE IN A WHILE, COMES ALONG A FASHION LABEL

FOUNDED BY WOMEN WHO SEEKS DAYTODAY

WARDROBE SOLUTIONS, RATHER THAN BEING A

FANCY DESIGNER WANTING TO MAKE AN AESTHETIC

STATEMENT. AND IF PRECEDENCE DICTATES, THESE

LABELS MUST BE ON THE RIGHT TRACK OF WHAT

REAL WOMEN WANT JUDGING BY THE PHENOMENAL

SUCCESS, AS IN THE CASE OF STACEY BENDET.

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72 \ GLAM: HOW WOULD YOU


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\

Clee crossbody bag Stacey winkglitter heel

Wide waistbandlow rise trouser

Maxi skirt with slit

Victorianahandkerchiefhem dress

Corwin leather dress

Rodes boxy crew rib sweater

GLAM:HOW WOULD YOU

STYLE THE ALICE & OLIVIA

AW2014 COLLECTION WITH

THE BASIC BLACK ABAYA?

Stacey: For daytime, wear a Victoriana handkerchiefhem dress under the abaya; for nighttime, the Amabelbox pleat skirt dress and for travel, the Rodes boxy crewrib sweater and the high waist Kate front pleat trouser.

Amabel box pleat skirt dress

GLAM:WHAT ARE THE 5

KEY THINGS THAT EVERY

WOMAN NEEDS IN HER

WARDROBE, REGARDLESS

OF HER STYLE OR SHAPE?

Stacey: A flattering pair of pants, heels, longskirt, versatile dress and an Olivia bag!

High waist Katefront pleat trouser

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Spearheaded by two Emirati sisters, Shamma andHessa Al-Hameli, Rocaille brings their launch collec-tion to life this Autumn; an ethereal and light visionof easy-to-wear dresses and separates with delicatedetails of hand-painted art as its highlight. Usingback-to-basics silhouettes, the label focuses entirely

on quality, finishing and detailing as its signature. We are about

timelessness and attention to detail, the sisters say, and a merg-ing of our vision of artistic contemporary fashion with real life.

Working from their studio, based in Abu Dhabi, the sistersare keen to develop Rocaille into a new coveted luxury Emiratiprt-a-porter label. Combining minimalist aesthetics with their

own brand of fabrics, each collection will feature pieces for bothday and night. Theres much to be excited about in the newlabel, including its elegantly simple yet beautiful interpretationsamid the rush of over-the-top fashion that has been taking overinternational runways recently. Shamma and Hessa talk to usabout the construction of the new collection.

What is the inspiration and story behind the debut collection?For the first time, Rocaille introduces a capsule collection withexclusive garments designed with a unique woman in mind.Camellias and hydrangeas blossom in our capsule collectionbringing you an urban chic vibe thats meets classic and feminine

IN RECENT YEARS, THERE HAS BEEN A SURGE OF DEMI

COUTURE LABELS EMERGING FROM THE REGION A

FINE TESTIMONY TO AN AGEOLD PREFERENCE FOR

PERSONALISATION AND DETAILING OF BOTH THE

ABAYA AND THE JALABIYA. INTERPRETED ON THECONTEMPORARY SILHOUETTE, PAINSTAKINGLY MINUTE

EMBELLISHMENTS AND INTRICATE EMBROIDERY HAS

BECOME A MAIN FEATURE FOR MANY DESIGNERS, AND

NOW DEBUT LABEL ROCAILLE IS CHARTING A NEW

TERRITORY WITH HANDPAINTED ART ON THEIR PIECES.

BY DEBRINA ALIYAHWORK OF ART

FASHION /81


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silhouettes. With distinct looks perfect for day and night, ourgarments fabrics range from soft chiffon, to silk, and crepegeorgette, detailed with exquisite handwork and our signaturehand-painted designs.

Why camellia and hydrangea blossoms in particular?In each collection, an inspiration from nature and from our

surroundings affects how the collection will cultivate. As a story,the inspiration is the thread that brings the collection togetherin a harmonious way. With our first capsule collection, wewere inspired with the details and depth of the hydrangeas andcamellias that have multiple shades of colours in each petal. This

depth inspired us to incorporate intricate hand-embroidery detailinto our garments.

How did you two come together to collaborate in fashion?We both are passionate about fashion, art and textile since wewere young girls and share very similar styles. With our passion,we decided to learn more about this f ield by taking courses in

fashion design and illustrations, and also learning more abouttextiles and productions.

It is a very beautiful collaboration between us as we can easilyshare our thoughts and come together to produce one solidcollection. Each season will be an interesting ride and a learning

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experience for us, as we move from creations to creations.

Can you share the story behind the conception of the label, Rocaille?We appreciate art and the name 'Rocaille' is derived from a French dcorterm that focuses on patterns on walls from the 1800s. It reflects intricatedesigns and great attention to detail. As we all know, French dcor istimeless and influential even till this day. We believe that our label, Rocaille,cultivates these values and brings it to life in the designs. For the love of art,we wanted to bring art to clothing and add another layer of b eauty and gracethrough the process of hand painting. Our signature hand-painted clotheswill be a great addition to the women who appreciate and admire fashionand great craftsmanship.

How will Rocaille complement the rising fashion s cene of the UAE?As our fashion line brings a unique concept with the signature hand-paintedgarments, we aim to contribute to the success and the rise of the fashionscene in the UAE.

Who is the woman that you are designing for?We design each piece in the Rocaille collection for individual, confident,feminine clientele. Rocaille is made for a woman to feel effortlesslysophisticated and fashionable in evening wear and day-to-day fashion. Ourdesigns are inspired with modern women in mind, who want to stand outwith an original style of fashion.

What is the design process behind Rocaille, do you develop or source your textiles?In terms of textile, Rocaille produces custom-designed fabrics, as al lthe patterns and designs are made locally at our Abu Dhabi studio. Withour signature hand-painted designs, our clients will always have uniquegarments that are singularly unique.

What do you think are elements of the Middle Eastern woman that excite you?As Middle Easterners and Emiratis, we are always amazed by our beautifulculture and amazing handicraft that have been a treasure to the Emirates. Italso serves as an important inspiration for emerging designers to aspire todesign garments with passion and attention to detail.

As our fashion line bringsa unique concept with thesignature hand-painted

garments, we aim to contributeto the success and the rise of thefashion scene in the UAE.

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Michael CincoSpring Summer 2015

RUNWAY REPORT /85


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FASHION

FORWARD

THE MIDDLE EASTS DEFINITIVE

FASHION PLATFORM HAS

GONE FROM STRENGTH TO

STRENGTH INTO ITS FOURTH

EDITION THIS SEASON

WITH REGIONAL DESIGNERS

PRESENTING THEIR SPRING

SUMMER 2015 COLLECTIONS.WITH A MIX OF ESTABLISHED

NAMES AMATO AND MICHAEL

CINCO, AND NEW DESIGNERS

REPRESENTED BY STARCH

FOUNDATION, THE SHOWS

WERE A VISUAL KALEIDOSCOPE

FROM FANTASY CREATIONSTO CONTEMPORARY SLEEK

SILHOUETTES.

S E A S O N 4

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HSH

Designed by Ava Hashemi, the label Hsh began as a custom-made clutches concept, which expanded into womenswearand hats. The designer got her leap in 2012 when she f irstshowcased her clothing collection in a show sponsored by

Met & Chandon and in the same year, was awarded The BestUpcoming Fashion Designer in New England. Avas prt-a-porter line is a modern spin on old-world elegance. Hasheshand-made clutches feature signature geometric shapes and

designs with stones, studs, and vintage brooches.

RUNWAY REPORT /87


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THE EMPEROR 1688

This contemporary specialises in tailored silhouettesfor both women and men and its collection is divided

by shades of blues and browns for SS15. The triobehind the creative process, brothers Babak, Hamanand Farhan Golkar, looked to Morocco as inspiration

for the colours a combination of organic shades.

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AMATO

Middle Easts King of Fashion Fantasy comes to the forethis season with all the key ingredients of his wonderfullyappointed atelier; tulle origami, chiffon overlays, beadeddresses, capes, hats, masks, cage-bags, and feathers. The

entire collection was presented in different variants ofthe colour white, a narrative of a woman being abductedby aliens, as presented in the shows introductory video.

RUNWAY REPORT /89


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JEAN LOUIS SABAJI

Models sporting elongated eyeliner to replicate abirds eye was the first giveaway of Jean Louis Sabajis

inspiration for this season birds. Signature beadedsilk and theatrical gowns with silicon embellishments

brought a series of conceptual, yet nearly-wearable gownsand skirts to life. A pale beige number with cascading

skyblue beading stole our hearts as a red-carpet stunner.

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MICHAEL CINCO

This was a collection of many facets, starting withwhite lace dresses, then followed by romantic

pastel gowns, and then the f inale of huge Victorianball gowns with pops of neon colours over tulle. It

was undoubtedly a huge showing, but it was thedesigners signature lace work on various shortdresses, that really brought a breath of fresh air.


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100 \NUDE LOOK

The nude make-up look makes a return withKorean designer J. JS Lee using it to match theminimalism of her tailored pieces, similar to the


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LOADAUTUMNS BIG BEAUTY MOMENTS

minimalism of her tailored pieces, similar to thetheme at Christopher Raeburn, where DebbieFinnegan used MAC products to create a naturaland fresh look. Make-up artist Lucia Pieroni whowas in charge of the Christopher Kane show, andalso stuck to the nude theme, filling in brows andadding a light highlight to the cheeks for finish.

NUDE LIPS

Nude lips were all over therunway in Milan, and theMissoni show was noexception. Make-up artistWayne Goss shares how topick the right shade foryour skin. His first tip is totest out whether you canrock a beige lip by applyingfoundation on your lips: Ifyou look amazing, go for it.Still, according to Wayne areal nude lip is your own lipcolour, and he suggestspicking one shade lighterthan your own lip colour forthe best effect.

BLUE EYES

Blue eyeliner and eye shadowfeatured at a number of shows,including Temperley London, whereultramarine was paired with a soft

peach lip. Giles and Michael van derHam also worked the trend, adding alittle more glitter in the process.

SIXTIES EYES

At Saint Laurent 60's shift dresses were pairedwith black winged eyeliner and heavy mascara.Start with taupe shadow on the lid, then line thelid with black liquid eyeliner in the desired shape.Finish off the eye with two coats of mascara.

CORNROW BRAIDS

At Sarah Burtons Alexander McQueenshow, the models wore cornrow hair.

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VICTORY ROLLS

Antonio Marras goes for elegant rolls achieved through blow-dried curled hair thatis parted to the side and teased with a comb.

CENTER PARTINGS

At Preen, hair was parted in themiddle and pulled back looselyover the ears, with a few lyawayhairs for effect. Topshop Uniquesnaughty schoolgirls were givencentre-parted straightened hairby stylist Anthony Turner. At JohnRocha, hair was held withproduct in the centre and felldamply to the side.

CLUMPY EYELASHES

At Prada, beauty legend Pat McGrath wantedthe girls to look like they were applying theirmake-up for the first time, hence the slightlymessy red lips and the clumpy mascara.

COLORFUL EYES

Chanel and Jean-Charles de Castelbajacboth went for bright Crayola eyes onthe runway. Skip the neon lips for thefull runway effect, and go for a nudelook as seen at Chanel.

QUIRKY MODERNISM

The prints in London took on a quirky tone thisseason with plenty of post-modern mash-ups andstrange hand motifs appearing on the runway. AtHolly Fulton, makeup artist Andrew Gallimoreused metallic eyeliner to create double-takedouble copper lines on the girls eye sockets.

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my works in glam november 2014

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