Lookout Qatar34 This and That QELA finds spring inspirations from art; Robert Tateossian crafts wild accessories; and Etel Adnan draws connection of poetry and painting.

35 Market Watch Middle Eastern designers take an experimental interpretation when it comes to menswear, be it updating the thobe or injecting embroideries into jackets.

38 Fashion Memo Jeremy Hackett travels the world in expansion of his fashion label while picking up some life lessons on the way.

40 The Scene Level Shoe District in Dubai is proving to be more than just a shoe boutique with its growing clout among shoe aficianados.

42 On Heritage An art that is becoming increasingly rare, Viscount David Linley speaks on the intricacies of woodwork and its place in true luxury.

44 Going Vocal The British Paraorchestra and the Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra comes together to showcase the talents of differently-abled musicians.

Arena Qatar59 Form and Fashion Be it amazed acceptance or grudging acknowledgement, Richard Serra's take over of Doha with his signature steel plates has got the community abuzz.

62 Collector's Piece Qatars most prolific collector, Sheikh Faisal bin Qassim has had long glorious decades of buying art but it is the treasures of his family that he holds most dear.

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Publisher & Editor-In-ChiefYousuf Jassem Al DarwishChief ExecutiveSandeep SehgalExecutive Vice PresidentAlpana RoyVice PresidentRavi Raman

EDITORIALEditorSindhu NairChief Fashion CorrespondentDebrina AliyahSenior CorrespondentsAbigail MathiasAyswarya MurthyEzdihar Ibrahim AliSub-Editor Sue Eedle

ART Senior Art DirectorVenkat ReddyDeputy Art DirectorHanan Abu SaiamAssistant Art DirectorAyush IndrajithSenior Graphic Designer Maheshwar ReddyPhotographyRob Altamirano

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T, THE STYLE MAGAZINE

OF THE NEW YORK TIMESEditor in Chief Deborah NeedlemanCreative DirectorPatrick LiDeputy Editor Whitney VargasFashion Director at LargeJoe McKennaManaging Editor George GustinesPhotography DirectorNadia Vellam

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Table of Contents

Left: Linley's work in wood. Top: Richard Serra's 7 becomes the focal point of a fashion editorial by blogger Anum Bashir.

Page 42

Page 59

39

House of NomadDubai-based label House of Nomad turns the spotlight on a single-tone nude color palette in its debut Spring Collection, offering bold separates such as bomber jackets and drop crotch pants for men.

The pieces are unified by its use of heavy jersey and the stylization of Arabic calligraphy as the main print feature. The label, designed by Ahmed El Sayed and Saleh Al Banna, is reflective of the cultural

current of the Middle East, where a modern nomadic lifestyle of moving from city to city is prevalent. www.house-of-nomad.com

Men in FashionFrom the traditional thobe to funky print tees,

the fashion options for men in the Middle East are mixed but definitely happening.

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

Varoin Marwah Fabrics rule this season, for Varoin Marwahs new collection, as the designer experiments

with textured cotton, pattern-embossed blends and embroidered linen to break away from the

traditional menswear norm. Aiming for comfort and wearability, the summer pieces are set in pastel shades with nature-inspired embroidery motifs to set the backdrop to the collections narration of a man in love. Our

designs are made for that man, who loves to be in love, who loves his life, who loves himself. It

is part of every minute of our lives, says Marwah. The label has also focused on canvas as the main material for its new shoe designs, which are handmade and printed with motifs

derived from its collections embroidery. www.varoinmarwah.com

Lomar ThobeThe regions most sought-after thobe designer label, Lomar Thobe, focuses

on three new elements this season,: the Unstitched, the Slide and the Sedery Duo. Unstitched is a visual play on the traditional version, hiding all

visible stitches on the front; Slide puts the accent on the collar and the sleeve, while Sedery Duo combines a thobe with a matching double-layer

mashlah vest. The label was founded 12 years ago in Saudi Arabia by husband-and-wife team Loai Nassem and Mona Al Haddad with the aim of

redefining thobes to appeal to the modern man. www.lomarthobe.com.sa

Franklin EugeneThe eponymous label features a

collection of ten silhouettes this summer with a somber color palette of sky blue to

jet black. The range of silhouettes is meant to be the complete wardrobe

rotation for menswear, from work to play. With Dubai being a world-class resort travel destination and with our flagship

boutique located in one of the citys premier lifestyle communities, Jumeirah Beach Residence, it was only natural that this collection would come to pass, says Eugene. Trained at the London College of Fashion, Eugene created the trademark eight-button arm cuff that has become

the signature element in his pieces. Franklin Eugene Boutique, The Walk at

Jumeirah Beach Residences, Dubai.

Market Watch

42 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

Lookout Qatar

THE THING ABOUT THE INTERNET, Jeremy Hackett says, is that everything he says gets shared and stays out there on the World Wide Web forever. People read it and when they meet me they ask me the same questions again! he quips. So I decide to take my chance and enquire if Hackett thinks it was a good idea for me to surprise my forty-year-old husband with a gift of a very fashionable and very narrow tie. He pauses before breaking into a grin: I wouldnt go there!

Hackett has been traveling to the Middle East frequently in a rapid expansion of Hackett stores in the region, but this is his maiden trip to Qatar, marking the opening of his first-ever store in this city. Throughout his stay he gets chauffeured around in an Aston Martin, which seemed apt, since Hackett is the quintessential British label for a gentlemans wardrobe, and the Aston Martin is the ultimate ride for a British spy. The whole affair is very British-centric, but this is what the essence of Hackett is all about.

There are currently close to 80 Hackett stores around the

The Hackett Philosophy

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

From his love-hate relationship with the World Wide Web to British

quintessential brands, Middle East preferences and personal travel

muses, Jeremy Hackett talks about the things that matter most.

Fashion Memo

THE BRITISH GENTLEMAN Jeremy Hackett has brought British dressing

to a global audience.

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43May-June 2014

in the London store. The images are mostly black and whites of architecture, a few fashion pictures and pictures of my dogs, he laughs.

Perhaps this year will also mark the beginning of a project that has long been planned but unexecuted for the Hackett brand breaking into the American market. It has been a recurring story for the past five years that Hackett would finally open its first American store the following year, but Jeremy thinks 2015 is going to be lucky number. It is a very competitive market, but theres an appetite for British tailoring, so we will see, he smiles. And when in the States, Jeremy harbors a dream to travel in an Airstream all over the country accompanied only by his notebook, a camera and his dogs. He is sure to take his British dressing, despite his traveler endeavors, although when I bring up the subject of harem pants, he remarks, Now, thats a thought. It just gave me an idea!

Hackett is now open at Villaggio Mall.

world, a huge expansion since the first one opened its doors in 1983 in Parsons Green in London. The label is the embodiment of what and who Jeremy is, a well-mannered and well-dressed British gentleman whose idea of experimenting with fashion extends only as far as shortening the length of his trousers or wearing a slightly narrower tie ( just slightly). I am in my 60s; I really dont want to look like mutton dressed as lamb, he jokes. The far-reaching influence of classic British dressing however, is no joke. Hackett is wildly successful in places half-way across the world from London; cities such as Shanghai and Singapore, where precise tailoring is seen as a measure of personal success. It is also the sense of knowing what to expect that plays well into the psyche of male shoppers. Menswear is very different. If I am three steps ahead of the customers, I have lost them. Men want to look nicely turned out, but they are not going to rush into stores to buy the latest must-have jackets, though magazines would have you think otherwise, he shares.

In the Middle East, even with the thobe being the gold standard, the labels suit and classic lines have been gaining rapid momentum, not to mention its casual collection the main revenue earner. In the last decade, Hackett has quickly become a favorite among men in the Gulf, and now Arab shoppers at the labels stores in London are seeking out serious tailoring pieces. I think they like the heritage. There has been a long history and relationship between Britain and this region, Jeremy explains. Observing the dress code of Arab men, Jeremy finds it fascinating how the thobe can look so freshly pressed regardless of how long it has been worn. It makes them look so regal, elegant and

important, he says. Polo shirts, rugby shirts, knitwear and t-shirts also forms the

basis of Hacketts many sponsorships and involvement in sporting events closely associated with the British lifestyle that finds its parallel in this region. Dubais British Polo Day is one of Jeremys favorites, one that he often makes time to travel to Dubai for, along with Aston Martin Racing, the London Rowing Club, tennis and most recently Chelsea Football Club. I like Aston Martin cars and quite love polo, but with the rowing, I prefer watching it from afar rather than actually doing the rowing! he says.

From his Mr Classic blog and definitively the Internet, I had found out that Jeremys favorite color is navy blue, so I ask why. If you only have one coat, it has to be navy blue, he says. It is easier to wear than black, not too somber or too designed. Perhaps this is a question he has had to answer many times, because for a person whos concerned about things staying on the World Wide Web forever, he has a pretty active social media presence, including a Jeremy Advises portal where you can ask for sartorial tips. The Mr Classic blog is where Jeremy jots down musings on his travels and his dogs Browney and Muffin, and makes general humorous observations. This year, he will be exhibiting a collection of photographs he has taken over the years

I like Aston Martin cars and quite love polo, but with the rowing, I prefer watching it from afar rather

than actually doing the rowing! WORLD TRAVELER Looks from the Hackett London spring summer 2014 collection inspired by the global traveler.

44 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

IT IS EASY to attribute the sheer size of Level Shoe District to Dubais melodramatic flair for ostentatious displays of consumption, with the worlds tallest and biggest buildings already adding to the real estate expanse of the emirate. After all, the 96,000-square-foot space dubs itself more of a shoe metropolis than a boutique. It is the biggest shoe retail space in the world, and coincidentally also resides in the worlds largest shopping mall, The Dubai Mall. But nearly a year and a half on since the first pair of shoes was sold there, Level (as it is nicknamed) has established itself as a very serious and valuable player in the market.

A project by Chalhoub Group, arguably one of the most influential fashion conglomerates in the Middle East, Level was conceived to be a destination in itself a theatrical show of sorts

for fashion and shoe lovers to indulge and immerse in a experience going beyond the shoes. The concept and message of the store is vivacious and engaging; brands are consolidated into different spaces of different positioning, with seasonal pop-ups and visual media to help visitors discover collections. It is very important that when customers are walking through, the space talks back at you, and doesnt remain as a flat space, says Rania Masri, the general manager of Level. The designer floor houses stalwarts like Rupert Sanderson and Manolo Blahnik; the contemporary floor complete with urban music is home to cult favorites like United Nude and MM6, while the mens designer section is a leather haven of dress shoes. Pulling out the big guns, Chalhoub Group sought out instantly recognizable names as partners: Vogue Caf with its second global chain, celebrity foot expert Margaret Dabbs first spa outside the UK, Louis Vuittons first-ever dedicated shoe maison and Saint Laurents first boutique with its nouveau branding.

The storied associations are impressive, but it is Levels grit and dedication to seeking the freshest talents in the shoemaking industry that has gained it the cult following and, ultimately, the reality of commercial success. Each season the buying team led by Alberto Oliveros picks out pieces that extend into runway specials a firm favorite with stylists and works with selected designers on pairs that are exclusive to Level.

Unsurprisingly, the Level-exclusive designs, which are limited to about fifteen pairs each, are always the first to sell out. The exclusive pieces have to have the DNA of Level, something that represents vibrancy and uniqueness, Oliveros explains. This season, that direction is a color play of black and gold, with stellar choices from the likes of Sophia Webster, Nicholas Kirkwood

Fashion Sole

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

Level Shoe District takes up the baton to popularize a new wave of

fashion marketing by creating a destination for the shoe lover.

The Scene

ONE AND ONLY From left: Alberto Moretti, Louis Leeman, Bionda Castana and Sophia Webster designed exclusive pieces only for Level.

Lookout Qatar

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and Gianvito Rossi. This approach has helped kick-start the careers of certain labels

including Louis Leeman, who was first discovered by Level and is now carried by major retailers around the world. We seek out brands that are very specific and that give us our unique voice. We introduce new designers and help them tell their stories, says Masri. The buying process, which may have limitations for certain markets, is all fair game for the team at Level, as their clientele is truly global and varied. Level has such a large regional and international customer base, so its a great place for a young designer to be showcased, says Edgardo Osorio, the designer behind Italian brand Aquazzura. In 2013, The Dubai Mall was the worlds most-visited destination for the third consecutive year, with more than 75 million visitors, overtaking popular tourist spots including New York City and the Eiffel Tower. We are not limited by tastes, so we just have to focus on our constant challenge to discover new designers and find the next big thing, Masri says. Designers, too, are able to take bold creative leaps when working on collaborations with Level, just like Alberto Morettis much-talked-about 24-carat gold mens velvet loafers. There is a lot of energy and enthusiasm, and its admirable that they invest so much time to find emerging designers, Moretti says.

Making sense of literally the sea of shoes is a job best left to Levels personal styling team. The service, which offers a more private experience of shoe shopping, is often preferred by the regions shoppers. The strong rapport with clients enables the team to curate selections from the massive collections and narrow down precise choices for personal tastes and special occasions. Bring your dress, bring your friends, and come let us find your perfect pair, Masri says. Two dedicated lounges for men and women provide a private enclave to shop and consult in comfort, a service that surprisingly has won many male clients. Men are less partial to browsing. They just want to see what we have that will suit them, Oliveros explains. Level is also home to The Cobbler, a UAE-based bespoke shoe service that employs cobblers trained with the Compagnons du Tour de France. We will be traditional in the sense of the level of distinct quality of service, but we also want to be unexpected in our offerings, Masri says.

In the bigger scheme of things, Level is pushing the envelope by creating a new design future for the region, where the current wave of fashion pursuits is still very much focused on clothing. At the recent Fashion Forward Spring 2014, Masri was part of a panel to work on a new initiative to develop regional talents, with Level providing a platform to launch shoemakers. Aennis Eunis and Private Collection are two regional brands that have been very well received in the store. We want to be in touch with the community, and this extends to art, she adds, referring to The Zoo, a homegrown concept store that has an outpost at Level. Books, conceptual art, collaborative collections and some rare quirky finds at The Zoo, help you to take away a piece of the Level experience even if you resist the temptation to buy a pair of shoes.

PRIVATE SHOPPING From

top: the styling lounge for men; a

separate VIP lounge for women;

a gentlemen parlour for male

shoppers to consult with

stylists.

The buying process, which may come with limitations for certain markets, is all fair game for the team at Level as their

clientele is truly global and varied.

SHOE METROPOLIS From left: display at the designer floor; Vogue Cafes second global outlet; The Cobbler completes the shoe experience.