NAGALAND

ANGAMI TRIBEAngamis dwell in the southern region of Kohima, the capital of the state. Their common language is Sema. Agriculture is their main occupation.The culture of Angami tribal communities is enriched by exquisite woodcrafts and artworks. In fact woodcarving also is a big occupational activity. There is unique in itself. Following is the detailed discussion on their traditional attire.

MEN

CLOTHES

Men wear a knee length kilt of light blue or black colour which is their typical dress. The kilt is embellished with rows of cowries. Number of rows of cowries depends upon the status of wearer. Traditionally three lines of cowries signified that the wearer was a warrior, and four lines were only assumed by veterans of renown.

The cowries are rubbed on stone before being embroidered so that they may stick well. They are always sewn by the man who wears the kilt and never by his wife or anybody else.

The kilt is fastened by a belt.

HEADGEAR

The most common headgear of Angami community is made of Bamboo soikes with white cotton on tips arranged in semi circular pattern. But elite members of the community also wear a headgear fitted with feathers of Hornbill which provides a convex canopy with black band on white base.

ORNAMENTS

Brass armlets are particularly by the Eastern Angamis. These usually consist of a long ring of narrow brass encircling the upper arms perhaps a dozen times, and of a heavy brass bracelet with solid bugle-shaped ends which cross one another.

On the legs, just below the knee, rings of cane dyed black are worn. They are called as PISSOH. Some say that they are completely ornamental and some stress that they are worn as an aid to hill climbing.

WOMAN

CLOTHES

Women in general are clad in plain blue cloth and a white cloth with black marginal bands of changing breadth . Women often wear men`s garment. . The casual costume of a dress of Angami women includes a petticoat called Neikhro, a sleeveless top called Vatchi, a white skirt called Pfemhou.

Cowries are never worn by Angami women.

ORNAMENTS

Angami women wear no ornaments on their legs or feet, but wear the bugle-shaped bracelet already mentioned on the upper arm above the elbow, and curious brass wristlets, the ends of which are palmated and turn outwards away from one another. They also wear plain brass bracelets, sometimes in large numbers.

But daily costume , meant for wear and tear, is the black shawl called Ratapfe. Its meant for both man and woman.

AO TRIBEAos dwell in the western region of …………..

CLOTHES

They wear a small waist cloth which is tied at the back and falls like a broad flap in front. The front flap having dark colour base is adorned by cowries.

A colourful red scarf is hang across over the chest.

ACCESSORIES

They wear cotton puffs on ear. One of their neckpiece is made of ivory. They long necklace made of many strands of colour beads. They also wear long strip of wood about 15inches long suspended on chest. Armlets are also worn just above the elbow. They adorn the hairs by hornbills tail.

TSUNGKOTEPSU SHAWL

This is an exclusive male shawl and is one of the most characteristic cloth of Aos tribe. The shawl is woven on a general dark base. The cloth has a median white band and on either side of it, there are horizontal bands of contrasting colors like red, black and white. The median band is painted with a pattern in black, which includes various symbolic figures.

WOMAN

CLOTHES

The costume of the Ao women is a skirt, which is one and a quarter metre long and about two thirds of the metre, is draped round the waist and the surface outer edge is implanted for the grip. This knee length wrap skirt of red and black strips is called as YONGZUJANGAU.

The skirts come up in an inexplicable variety. They differ from village to village and also from clan to clan. The popular types of the Ao skirts involve Azu jangnup su , endowed with red and yellow-black stripes , the Ngami su or fish tail skirt.

They wear a Blue pullover also with red wollen strands hung over it. It reaches upto lower waist.

ORNAMENTS

They wear brass rings near each brow or temple area of head, supported by a string passing round the head.Large oblonged pieces of crystals are wore on ear lobe. The neck is adorned by strands of huge beads and bells. They tie the a bun and decorat it by hornbills tail.