natural solutions for modern formulators

07.04.2014 Titel der Präsentation 1

Natural solutions for modern formulators

Florence Olechowski,

R&D Manager Cosmetics

April 2014

A member of the Stern-Wywiol Gruppe

2

1. Biodegradability

2. Solutions from nature

3. Cold process

Berg + Schmidt


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1. Biodegradability


3. Cold process

Berg + Schmidt


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Fifty-four percent of the shoppers

interviewed consider sustainability to be

one of their decision making factors and are

„leaning green” (biodegradable products)*

*Source: 2009 GMA/Deloitte Green Shopper Study

Nappy sacks, house and car care products, clothes…

A sales argument for cosmetic brands too:

- Biodegradable, vegan hair care by “Faith In Nature”

- Biodegradable, makeup remover wipes by “La Fresh”

- Biodegradable, chemical-free nail polish by “Priti”

Biodegradability

Berg + Schmidt


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Biodegradability - The silicone problem

D4 and D5 are persistent and have the potential to bioaccumulate

in aquatic organisms*

Properties in skin care

Inert for the skin

Colorless/odorless

Light feeling, sensory enhancer


Biodegradability

*Source: http://www.ec.gc.ca/substances/ese/eng/challenge/batch2/batch2_556-67-2.cfm ii Environment Canada and Health Canada. Screening Assessment for the Challenge: Decamethyl

cyclopentasiloxane (D5). November

http://www.ec.gc.ca/substances/ese/eng/challenge/batch2/batch2_556-67-2.cfm





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Very quick penetration

Leaves a pleasant,

non- sticky satin feeling

Powdery skin sensation

Clean Label: silicone-free, no compromise in respect of texture.

BergaCare FG 5 - the ideal alternative to cyclomethicone in skin care


Biodegradability

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BergaCare FG 5, a synergistic dosage of esters and unsaponifiables,

readily biodegradable.

BergaCare FG 5 - the ideal alternative to cyclomethicone in skin care

Advantages in skin care

Light feeling, simulates the skin feeling of D5

Nourishes the skin: elasticity and softness

Transparent liquid, colorless/odorless,

with low viscosity


Biodegradability

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Base for silicone-free light touch emulsion

Phase Product INCI Name %(w/w)

A

BergaCare FG 5

Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and)

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (and) Caprylic

Capric Triglycerides

6,0

Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis

(Jojoba) Seed Oil 0,7

Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima (avocado) Oil 1,3

Montanov 68 Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside 2,5

BergaSom Sun 75H Hydrogenated Lecithin 0,8

Pioneer 37 P Sodium Carboxyvinyl Polymer 0,2

B Glycerin Glycerin 1,0

Water demineralised Aqua Up to 100

C Preservative/Fragrance - q.s.


Biodegradability – BergaCare FG 5

Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment.

Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use.

The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.

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BergaSoft - modern surfactants

BergaSoft SCI 80: Readily biodegradable

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, 78% after 28 days (OECD Guideline 301 D)

BergaSoft SCG 22: Readily biodegradable

Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, 83-86% after 28 days (OECD Guideline 301 B)

Advantages of BergaSoft

Mild surfactants

Sulfate-free, EO-free

Derivatives of renewable raw materials

Preservative-free

Good performances


Biodegradability

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Base for creamy rinse-off formulation

Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w)

A

BergaSoft SCG 22 Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate 5,5

BergaSoft SCI 80 Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 17,4

Vegarol 1618 50:50 Cetearyl Alcohol 3,3

Palmac 50-18 Stearic acid 5,5

Water demineralised Aqua Up to 100 B Preservative/Fragrance - q.s.


Biodegradability - BergaSofts




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Berg + Schmidt


1. Biodegradability


3. Cold process

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Solutions from nature

* http://www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/segments/skincare/Demand-for-Organic-Beauty-to-Grow-to-Over-13-Billion-by-2018-Report-Says-213160491.html

The global demand for organic personal care was over

$7.6 billion in 2012 and is expected to reach $13.2 billion by 2018.*

Consumers are now thinking carefully about resources

The boom of the “green” labels

Even exclusive brands are claiming to be eco-friendly or chemical-free.

Berg + Schmidt


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BergaCare SB - refined shea butter:

BergaCare SB - different forms available to fit the application:

crude, refined, organic, high melting point, olein

Advantages at a glance

Natural emollient

High percentage of unsaponifiable matter

Controlled production for premium quality

Wide range of applications

Good origin with marketing opportunities

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Base for body butter containing 15% shea butter


Solutions from nature - BergaCare SB


A

BergaCare SB Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 15,0

Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil 6,0

Onagra Oil Oenothera Biennis Oil 4,0

BergaCare EM-14 Isopropyl Myristate 8,0

BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 Caprylic Capric Triglycerides 6,0

Vegarol 22 Behenyl Alcohol 2,0

BergaBest GS SE Glyceryl Stearate SE 3,0

BergaCare EM-CP Cetyl Palmitate 4,0

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 3,0

BergaMuls HL 50 Lysolecithin 0,5

B demin. Water Aqua up to 100





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BergaScrub - natural alternative to PE/PP beads

PE/PP are produced from petrochemical origin




Natural, ecologically sound, renewable,

non-GMO, readily biodegradable

Different particle sizes available abrasive as wished

High melting point

Competitive

Odorless, colorless no effect on final formulation

Smooth surface painless

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Solutions from nature - BergaScrub

Base for transparent peeling shower gel


A

BergaScrub 350 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1,0

BergaSoft SCG 22 Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate 8,0

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate 6,0

Cocamido Propyl Betaine Cocamido Propyl Betaine 5,0

Guar Gum Guar Gum 0,5

Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan gum 0,8

demin. Water Aqua up to 100

Preservative/Fragrance - q.s.




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Phosphatidylcholine (PC)

12-18% in standard lecithin

BergaSom range:

• 50 to 90% PC

• Classic or hydrogenated

Suits every application

Available as a product of soy or sunflower seeds non GMO



Chemical structure of phosphatidylcholine

BergaSom - highly purified phosphatidylcholine

INCI Name: Lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin

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BergaSom - highly purified phosphatidylcholine

INCI Name: Lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin

High PC content:

Source of linoleic acid

Enhances penetration of active

ingredients

Anticomedogenic

Source of choline

Supports formation of ceramide I

Physical features: liposomes,

nano-emulsion, lipogel, …

High PC content, hydrogenated :

Protects the skin

Stabilizes TEWL

Conditions the horny layer

No oxidation possible

Physical features: lipid membrane

structure, liposomes, …




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Base for silicone-free light touch emulsion


Solutions from nature - BergaSom

Phase Product INCI Name %(w/w)

A

BergaCare FG 5

Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and)

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (and)

Caprylic Capric Triglycerides

6,0

Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis

(Jojoba) Seed Oil 0,7

Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima (avocado) Oil 1,3

Montanov 68 Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside 2,5

BergaSom Sun 75H Hydrogenated Lecithin 0,8

Pioneer 37 P Sodium Carboxyvinyl Polymer 0,2

B Glycerin Glycerin 1,0

Water demineralised Aqua Up to 100





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1. Biodegradability


3. Cold process

Berg + Schmidt


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Cold process

90% of the energy is used for heating the water and oil phases to 75-80°C*

Saves time, since no cooling is needed

Sensitive ingredients can be added earlier

Significantly lower overall carbon footprint

for the companies/brands

Requires special raw materials from fatty phase to emulsifiers

Berg + Schmidt


* Russel Cox: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/methodsprocesses/premium-Cold-Processing-of-Emulsions-218867771.html

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BergaMuls ET 1 - fruit and cereal fibers

INCI name: Beta Glucan (and) Pectin


Highly innovative and exclusive compound

Powerful emulsifying and efficient thickening properties

Natural, renewable

Can be processed cold but is also heat resistant

Easy to use (wide pH range, no incompatibility even at a high percentage

electrolytes or UV filters, all kinds of oil polarities…)

Neutral feeling on the skin for elegant final skin care products


Cold process

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BergaMuls ET 1 - fruit and cereal fibers

INCI name: Beta Glucan (and) Pectin

Conditions

Realized with approx.

30% BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40

(caprylic capric triglyceride),

3% BergaMuls ET 1, made up

to 100% with distilled water.

Brookfield measurement

SP 5, 20 rpm

Temperature does not affect the performance of BergaMuls ET 1


Cold process

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Cold process - BergaMuls ET 1

Base for foot cream with 15% Urea


A

BergaMuls ET 1 Beta Glucan (and) Pectin 2,4

BergaCare SB Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 4,0

BergaCare EM-16 Isopropyl Palmitate 4,0

BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 Caprylic/capric Triglycerides 4,0

Pionier® NP 37 G Sodium Carboxyvinyl Polymer 0,2

B

demin. Water Aqua 67,4

Glycerin Glycerin 2,3

Urea Urea 15,0





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BergaMuls HL - hydrolyzed lecithin

INCI name: Lysolecithin

Hydrolyzation: mild and natural

process less steric hindrance

2 grades available :

BergaMuls HL 25 and 50

Emulsions just

after production

Standard lecithin (STD)

vs BergaMuls HL 50 20% BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40

3% SDT or BergaMuls HL 50

77% demin. water


Cold process

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Emulsions after

centrifugation

Hydrolyzation: mild and natural

process less steric hindrance

2 grades available :

BergaMuls HL 25 and 50


Cold process

Standard lecithin (STD)

vs BergaMuls HL 50 20% BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40

3% SDT or BergaMuls HL 50

77% demin. water

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High level of hydrolysis

Good emulsification performance

Efficient wetting properties

Promotes dispersion

Multifunctional

Cold-processable emulsifier

Emollient for the skin

Usable in spray formulations

Anti-static agent/conditioner for the hair




Cold process

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Cold process - BergaMuls HL 50

Base for cold processed shampoo with natural conditioners


A

Sodium Laureth Sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate 20,0

Cocamido Propyl Betaine Cocamido Propyl Betaine 8,0

BergaCare SB-RO Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil 1,0


B

Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan gum 0,3


demin. Water Aqua up to 100

C Citric Acid up to wished pH

NaCl Sodium Chloride 0,8

D Preservative/Fragrance - q.s.




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Cold process

BergaCare SB-RO - refined shea olein


Natural liquid emollient cold-processable

High percentage of unsaponifiable matter

Controlled production for premium quality

Novel applications possible, such as rinse-off

formulations

Good origin with marketing opportunities

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Cold process - BergaCare SB-RO

Base for hair oil repair


A

BergaCare FG 5

Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl

Palmitate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil

Unsaponifiables (and) Caprylic Capric

Triglycerides

25,2


BergaCare SB-RO Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil 36,0

Jojoba Oil Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 5,0

BergaCare EM-14 Isopropyl myristate 16,1

Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 9,2

Abricot Oil Prunus Armeniaca kernel Oil 3,0

Tocopherol acetate Tocopherol acetate 0,5

Ethanol Ethanol 3,0




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Cold process

BergaSoft SCG 22 - soft sulfate-free surfactant INCI name: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

Advantages

Liquid surfactant cold-processable

Based on renewable raw materials

Transparent under certain pH conditions

Contains no preservative

Improves rinsing properties of the finished product

Fresh feeling on the skin

Easy to thicken

High foaming performance

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Cold process - BergaSoft SCG 22

Base for micellar water, cold-processed


A

Wasser Aqua 91,5

Pentylene glycol 1,2 Pentandiol 3,0


BergaSoft SCG221 Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate 0,6

BergaCare EM-HE71 PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate 0,9

Noedermyl ®2

Glycerin, Water, Methylglucoside

Phosphate, Copper

Lysinate/Prolinate

1,0

Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract (and)

Water 1,0

Preservative/Fragrance - q.s.

Suppliers : 1 Berg + Schmidt

2 Induchem/Permcos




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Silicone-free light touch emulsion

Creamy rinse-off formulation

Body butter with 15% Shea Butter

Transparent & Sulfate-free peeling shower gel

Foot cream with 15% Urea

Cold processed shampoo with natural conditioners

Hair Oil repair

Micellar water


Formulations

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You find us at

hall A1, stand 1B60

07.04.2014 Titel der Präsentation 35

Thank you for your attention.

Berg + Schmidt

Florence Olechowski

R&D Manager Cosmetics

An der Alster 81

20099 Hamburg

Phone: +49( 0)40 284 039-0

[email protected]

www.berg-schmidt.de A member of the Stern-Wywiol Gruppe

natural solutions for modern formulators

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