396Behind the Scenes

OUR»READERSMany»thanks»to»the»travellers»who»used»the»last»edition»and»wrote»to»us»with»help-ful»hints,»useful»advice»and»interesting»anecdotes:Craig Alsup, Jan Ardesch, Anne-Karin At-wood, Trin Au, Christy Auer, Leonie Bartlett, Buddhi Bhatta, Liz Bissett, Carl Bloch, Stina Bostrom, Sally Brodziak, Jeroen Buijs, Mark Buzinkay, Richard Carroll, Kathryn Cehrs, Alice Chan, Jian Chen, Nelson Chen, David Childress, Benjamin Chisholme, Nickie Clare, Suzie Coad, Gerald Cohen, Margaret Collins, James Cooper, Louis Corbeil, Henry Coulter, Yoav Dan, Mark Davis, Gary Dawson Smith, Theo de Bray, Lian de Graaf, Alexandra de Groote, Nadine Delannoy, Ben Demarco, Caron Dhoju, Kyaron Dhoju, Chad Dibble, Joanne Divine, Kay Dunlevy, Ricardo Egana, Daniel Ek, Navyo Eller, Bronwyn Ellis, Claire Faugeras, Sarah Ferris, Brett Gamon, Dave Garwood, Macartan Gaughan, Hilde Geels, Daniel Gerster, Ben Goldsmisth, Sheila Gooden, Doug Grant, Laura Grant, Thomas Grindrod, James Gurd, Martine Hamlet, Martin Harris, Sonja Hilbrand, David and Sally Hillebrandt, Maziar Hosseinzadeh, Greg Hoyt, Dr Gisela Huber, Duane Hybert-son, Petros Isaakidis, Monique Jochman, Sandy Jordan, Sushma Joshi, Basia Jozwiak, Pascal Kaufmann, Andrea Ketcham, Berend Klompsma, Natalie Klötzer, Kristin Kudebeh, Michael Lange, Stone Leung, Benjamin

Linder, Amanda Marr, David Martin, Mark Mascarenhas, Scott Mason, Anna Matyas-falvi, Anne Mawdsley, Solveig Mitt, Nabiha Mohammed, Michael Moldoveanu, Sarah Montagu, Steve Morgan, Robert Morton, Anson Moxness, Caroline Murray, Stefania Nardin, Augustus Nasmith Jr, Ross Neal, Alexis Negre, Don Pagett, Amalia Peloc, Xavi Pérez, Mareike Pergher, Mikael Pers-son, Matt Piercy, Jodi Polak, Olivia Pollock, Jiri Preclik, Bill Prime, Raaz the Secret, Karen Rae, Jose Ramon Infante, Muna Rana, Therese Ranerup, Laurel Redding, Jack Richeson, Suzanne Rigg, Theresa Rooney, Gladys Rousseau, Sourav Roy, Alexandra Rudorff, Michal Rudziecki, Claudia Ruepp, Lauren Ruff, Kerstin Rusch, Elena Rybia-kova, Harjinder Samra, Bradley Schultz, Raymond Schweichert, Markus Schweitzer, Howard Sercombe, Dan Seymour-Davies, Rahul Sharma, Deborah Sherman, Gyanu Shrestha, Neil Small, Carter Smith, Martina Specht, Lucien Staarink, Belinda Stein, Tracy Stevens, Scott Swensen, Howard Tarpey, Sam Tarshis, Binod Thapa, Myriam Thoma-chot, Joe Thurgoof, Richard Tigran Gazarian, Franciska Tillema, Melissa Umphress, Steve Umphress, Sarah van den Bos, Wilfred van der Pluijm, Maaike van Dooren, Jack van Doren, Berry van Welzen, Robbert Veern, Mike Vingoe, Mark Volmer, Andrea Votavova, Andrew Whitmarsh, David Wilken, Chris Wil-liamson, Kwa Yiqian

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AUTHOR»THANKSBradley»MayhewThanks to Michelle and Puchun, Jehan Sei-rafi, Ruth at Global Vision International, Niraj Shrestha, Rajeev Shrestha, Rajan Simkhada, porter Gompu Sherpa, phantom trekking partner Carol Davis, Durga Tamang and Megh Ale. Cheers as always to Trent and Lindsay.

Lindsay»BrownI am very grateful for the assistance of Stan Armington in Pokhara, Durga Bhandari in Kathmandu, Ram Prasad Rijal in Sauraha, Man Mohan Shrestha in Tansen, Lila Mani Sharma in Lumbini and Mohan Arayal, Santa Chaudhari and Khageshwor Gautam in Bar-dia. Thanks also to co-authors Bradley and Trent, and to Jenny, Pat and Sinead at home.

Trent»HoldenA huge thanks to everyone that I met along the road who helped out with invaluable tips and feedback. In no particular order I’d like to thank Tony Jones, Niraj Shrestha, Jenny and Santosh, Chimi Gurung, Sarita Bhatta, Erin McEvoy, Dmytro Dmytrenko and Megh Ale. I’d also like to thank my co-authors Bradley and Lindsay. Finally, all my love to my family and my girlfriend, Kate.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSCover photograph: Bodhnath Stupa, Bodhnath. Felix Hug/Lonely Planet Images.

Many of the images in this guide are avail-able for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com.

THIS»BOOKThis 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Nepal guidebook was researched and written by Bradley Mayhew (coordinating author), Lindsay Brown and Trent Holden. Bradley and Trent also worked on the previous edition along with coordinating author Joe Bindloss. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, and produced by the following:Commissioning»Editors Kate Morgan, Maryanne Netto, Kalya Ryan, Glenn van der KnijffCoordinating»Editors Michelle Bennett, Carolyn Boicos, Rebecca Chau

Coordinating»»Cartographer Peter ShieldsCoordinating»Layout»Designer»Mazzy PrinsepManaging»Editors Brigitte Ellemor, Angela TinsonSenior»Editors Susan Pater-son, Martine PowerManaging»Cartographers David Connolly, Corey Hutchison, Adrian PersogliaManaging»Layout»Design-ers»Chris Girdler, Jane HartAssisting»Editors Janet Austin, Pete Cruttenden, Andi Jones, Kate Kiely, Kellie Langdon, Luna Soo

Assisting»Cartographers Karusha Ganga, Rachel Ime-son, Valentina Kremenchutskaya, Jacqueline Nguyen, Sophie Reed, Andy RojasCover»ResearchNaomi ParkerInternal»Image»Research Aude VauconsantLanguage»Content Branislava VladisavljevicThanks»to Ryan Evans, Bri-ohny Hooper, Yvonne Kirk, Shawn Low, Wayne Murphy, Trent Paton, Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Ridgway, Gerard Walker

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

398

4WD safaris 228, 250

AAbu Khaireni 184-5acclimatisation 37, 386accommodation 358-9, see also

individual locationslanguage 389luxury 18, 268trekking 267, 268

activities 16, 17, 19, 20, 22, 359, 361, see also individual activities

acute mountain sickness 385-7

Adinath Lokeshwar Temple 161-2

AIDS 384air travel

safety 378-9scenic flights 76-7, 195to/from Nepal 373-5within Nepal 377-9, 378

Akash Bhairab Temple 71

alcohol 363, 364altitude sickness 385-7Amar Narayan Mandir 244amoebic dysentery 385AMS 385-7Amsuvarman 308animals 342-5, see also individual

animalsendangerment of 352

Annapurna Base Camp 282Annapurna Circuit Trek 8, 274-81,

276-7, 2-3, 8Annapurna Conservation Area

trekking permits 210Annapurna Sanctuary Trek 281-2,

276-7Annapurna Skyline Trek 283,

276-7Annapurna Temple 70

antiques 353, 360arak 364architecture 334-6area codes 15Arniko 335Arniko Hwy 177art, theft of 335arts 68, 258, 334-9, see also

individual artsArun River 301Asan Tole 70Ashok Binayak 59Ashoka 237, 238Ashokan Pillar 238ATMs 365Auspicious Pinnacle Dharma Centre

of Dzongsar 163autorickshaws 380avalanches 282

bBachhareshwari Temple 116Bachhauli 226Bagarchhap 275bagh chal 330Bagh Jatra 199Bagmati River 116, 350Bagnaskot 245Bahun people 331Bahundanda 275Bala Chaturdashi 22, 118Balaju Jatra 19Balephi Khola 301Balkumari Jatra 19, 155Bamboo 282Bandipur 186-90, 188Banepa 171-2Banke National Park 348Barabise 178Bardia National Park 249-53bargaining 365Basantapur (Kathmandu) Tower

69Bat Cave 213bathrooms 370bears 225, 343beer 363begging 353Begnas Tal 213-15Bengal tigers 225, 343Beni to Dolpo trek 291Benighat 184Besi Sahar 275Bhagwati Temple 63Bhairab Sthan Temple 245Bhairabnath Temple 141, 143Bhairawa 234-6Bhairawa border crossing 375

Bhaktapur 8, 140-55, 142, 146, 148, 150, 8, 25

accommodation 152-3drinking 154festivals & events 145, 152food 153-4history 141shopping 154sights 141, 143-9, 152travel to/from 154-5 walking tours 150-1, 150

Bharatpur 220-1Bhedetar 262Bhedetar Charles Point 262Bheri River 301Bhimsen Temple (Bhaktapur) 148,

150Bhimsen Temple (Patan) 126Bhimsen Tower 76Bhote Kosi 298Bhotichaur 171Bhulbule 275Bhutanese refugees 262Bijayapur 261Biratnagar 260-1birds 342, 344-5birdwatching 344

Bardia National Park 249Chitwan National Park 224Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve 259Pulchowki Mountain 167

Birendra, King 313, 314, 316Birganj 254-5Birganj border crossing 255, 376Bis Hajaar Tal 228, 343Bishankhu Narayan 167Bishwakarma Temple 137Bisket Jatra 19, 145, 152boating 197Bodhnath (Boudha) 118-23, 119Bodhnath Stupa 9, 120, 9Bön faith 324books 305

art & architecture 336, 337culture 329, 330, 332health 383history 313, 314, 315, 316rafting & kayaking 41trekking 31

border crossings 220, 375-7Bhairawa 375Birganj 255, 376India 375-6Kakarbhitta 264, 376Mahendranagar 252, 253, 375-6Nepalganj 247, 376Sunauli 234, 235, 375Tibet 179, 376-7

399IN

deX B-E

Borderlands Resort 178Boudha, see Bodhnath Brahma 322Brass & Bronze Museum 148-9breweries 166Buddha Amideva Park 110Buddha Jayanti 20, 121, 240Buddha, the 241, 324

birthplace of 10, 236-7, 238Buddhism 306-7, 308, 319, 323-5budgeting 14Budha Subba Mandir 261Budhanilkantha 124-5Bungamati 164-5Bungamati Culture Museum 165bungee jumping 178bus travel 379-80business hours 359Butwal 242-3

ccalendar, Nepali 368canoeing 227, see also rafting &

kayakingcanyoning 77, 178, 184car travel 15, 377, 380carbon offsetting 374carom 330carpets 337caste system 320caves

Bat Cave 213Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave

194-5Guru Rinpoche Cave 163Mahendra Gufa 213Manjushree Park & Cave 162Siddha Gufa 187-8

caving 79, 162, 189cell phones 370Chabahil 118Chame 275, 278Chandra Binayak Ganesh Temple

118chang 364changing money 365-6Changu Museum 157Changu Narayan Temple 156-7, 156Chapagaon 165-6Charamuti Vihar 118charitable organisations 352Chhetri people 331Chhomrong 282Chhukung 274Chhyongkhar 279Chilanchu Vihara 161children, travel with 77, 359Chisopani 171, 283

Chitwan National Park 9, 221-34, 222-3, 9

accommodation 229-32dangers & annoyances 224-5, 228food 232-3geography 224history 223-4travel to/from 233-4travel within 234

Chobar 161-2Chomolungma 341Chure Hills 341Chyasilin Mandap 146climate 14, 19-20, 22, see also

individual locationsclimate change 349, 374conservation fees 35consulates 360-2courses

cooking 78language 120-1, 364-5massage 78meditation 78, 124, 134, 161mountaineering 272music 78yoga 78

cows 320credit cards 366Crocodile Breeding Centre &

Rhino Centre 249-50crocodiles 225, 249-50, 344culture 326-33curd 154currency 15customs, social 304, 354, see also

etiquettecustoms regulations 359-60cycle-rickshaws 380cycling 379, see also mountain biking

Chitwan National Park 228-9Nagarkot 170-1Pokhara 197

dDakshinkali 164Dalai Lama 315, 325, 315Daman 246-7dance 337-8dangers, see also safety

altitude sickness 385-7avalanches 282hitching 380

Danush Sagar 256Dasain 20-1, 367Dattatreya Temple 147-8day treks 16, 266-7, see also trekking

Bandipur 189Chitwan National Park 227

Dhulikhel to Namobuddha 173Gokarna to Bodhnath 160Nagarkot 168Phewa Tal Circuit 193Pokhara 198-9Tansen area 245World Peace Pagoda (Pokhara) 205

Deepawali 22, 21deer 344deforestation 348demonstrations 368-9departure tax 375Devaladevi, Queen 308Devdaha 242development organisations 352Devghat 221Devi’s Falls 194Dey Pukha 165Dhama Janami Vipassana Centre

239Dhanushadham 256Dharahara 76Dharan 261Dharma Sangha 259Dhulikhel 170, 172-5, 172Diamond Sutra 325diarrhoea 37, 385Dipendra, Prince 74, 316, 317diphtheria 382disabilities, travellers with 370Diwali 22Dollu 164dolphins 343donations 353-4drinks 363, 364, 389driving, see car travelDrölma Lhakhang 163Drubgyud Chöling Gompa 238Dumre 190Durbar Sq (Bhaktapur) 143-7, 146Durbar Sq (Kathmandu) 6, 55, 58-9,

64, 6-7Durbar Sq (Patan) 126-31, 132

eeconomy 304-5, 327, 328electricity 349, 360, 369Elephant Polo Championships 226elephant rides & safaris

Bardia National Park 250Chitwan National Park 9, 226-7, 9Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve

259-60Sukla Phanta Wildlife Reserve 253

elephants 9, 225-6, 250, 343, 9bathing 227breeding centres 225-6, 250safety 228

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

400

INdeX E-H

embassies 360-2emergencies 15, 389endangered animals 352environmental issues 35-6, 347-50,

351, 352, 374erotic art 68ethnic groups 328-32etiquette 40-1, 121, 304, 354, 355events, see festivals & eventsEverest, Mt 6, 341, 7Everest Base Camp Trek 6, 267-74,

270-1, 7exchange rates 15, 365

fFa Hsien 237fair trade 353

shopping 139, 140Festival of Colours 19Festival of Lights 22festivals & events 11, 19-22, 367, 11,

13, 21Bisket Jatra 19, 145, 152Buddha Jayanti 20, 121, 240Dasain 20-1, 367Gai Jatra 20, 152Ghanta Karna 20Holi 19, 257, 13Indra Jatra 20, 79, 11Janai Purnima 20, 135Jazzmandu Festival 78Kartika Purnima 22Krishna Jayanti 20Losar 19, 121, 199Maha Astami 21Maha Shivaratri 19, 118Mani Rimdu 22, 271-2, 21Naga Panchami 20, 149Navami 21Pachali Bhairab Jatra 20Phewa Festival 199Rato Machhendranath 20, 134, 135Seto Machhendranath 19, 70Teej 20

films 305, 338, 339fishing 250, 301flora 345-6food 362-3, see also individual

locationscooking courses 78curd 154language 389momos 13, 13

Freak St 94

Friendship Bridge 179Fulpati 21

gGaddhi Baithak 63Gai Jatra 20, 152galleries

National Art Gallery 144National Birendra Art Gallery 74Siddhartha Art Gallery 74

Ganesh 323Garden of Dreams 69Gautami Nun’s Temple 239gay travellers 363-4gem scams 369geography 340-2geology 340-1Ghachok Trek 282-3, 276-7Ghandruk 283Ghansal 245Ghanta Karna 20gharials 225Ghasa 281ghats

Hanuman Ghat 151Kathmandu 76Pashupatinath 116

Ghodaghodi Tal 250Ghorbanda 245Ghorepani to Ghandruk Loop 283,

276-7giardiasis 385Godavari 166-7Godavari Kunda 166Godavari Kunda Community Forest

166Gokarna Forest 158-9Gokarna Mahadev Temple 157-8, 158Gokyo Valley 273Golden Gate 144-5Golden Temple 131gompas, see monasteriesGorakhnath Temple 117Gorkha 185-6, 185, 186Gorkha Durbar 187, 186Gorkha Museum 186Gosainkund Trek 287-9, 288Gotlang 285government 304, 305, 312-18Great Bell 64Great Drigung Kagyud Lotus Stupa

239Great Drums 64Great Himalayan Trail 279Guhyeshwari Temple 117-18Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave 194-5Gurkha Museum 194Gurkhas 194, 310, 326, 330, 311

Guru Gorakhnath 187Guru Rinpoche 325Guru Rinpoche Cave 163Gurung people 326, 330-1, 3Gyanendra 316-17

hhaggling 353Hanuman 323Hanuman Dhoka 67-70Hanuman Ghat 151Haribodhini Ekadashi 22, 125Harisiddhi 167Harnari 226health 382-7

books 383charitable organisations 352insurance 382internet resources 383language 389-90services 384trekking 36-7, 384vaccinations 382-3

Helambu Trek 289, 290hepatitis 382, 384Hetauda 246hiking, see trekkingHile 262-3Himalaya, the 342Himalayan Brewery 166Himalayan Buddhist Meditation

Centre 134Hinduism 319-23history 306-18

Bhaktapur 141books 313, 314, 315, 316Chitwan National Park 223-4internet resources 309Kathmandu 55Kathmandu Valley 114Licchavi era 307-8, 334Lumbini 237Malla era 308-9, 334Maoist insurgency 221-2, 249, 304,

305, 314-16Patan 126Rana era 311-12royal-family massacre 316-17Shah dynasty 309-11, 312-13Terai 217WWI 312WWII 312

hitching 380HIV 384Holi 19, 257, 13holidays 367, 368horse riding 197Hsuan Tang 237

401IN

deX H-L

Hugdi 184human trafficking 332hydroelectricity 349

II Baha Bahi 132Ichangu Narayan 124Ilam 263immigration 371, 373India border crossing 375-6Indra 176Indra Chowk 71Indra Jatra 20, 79, 11Indrapur Temple 66Indreshwar Mahadev Temple

176insurance 364

health 382motorbikes 380trekking 37

International Mountain Museum 194

internet access 364internet resources 15

arts 335, 338culture 326health 383history 309national parks & conservation

areas 343rafting & kayaking 41-2trekking 34

Islam 325Island Peak 272Itahari 260itineraries 23-7, 361

Kathmandu 55Pokhara 195

Itum Bahal 71, 74

JJagannath Temple 65Jagat 275Jaisi Deval Temple 76Jal Binayak Temple 162janai 331Janai Purnima 20, 135Janaki Mandir 256Janakpur 256-9, 257Janakpur Women’s Development

Centre 258Jangchub Choeling Gompa 195Japanese B encephalitis 382Jazzmandu Festival 78Jhong 279Jomsom 209, 279Jumla 249Jyotirlingeshwar Temple 149

KKagbeni 279Kagyu Institute of Buddhist

Studies 161Kahun Danda 198-9Kaiser Library 99Kakani 180-1Kakarbhitta 264-5Kakarbhitta border crossing 264, 376Kala (Black) Bhairab 66Kala Pattar 273Kali Gandaki 279, 299Kalika Temple 187Kanchenjunga 291Kanyam Tea Gardens 264Ka-Nying Sheldrup Ling Gompa 120Kapilavastu 241-2, 307Karnali 300Kartika Purnima 22Kaskikot 213Kasthamandap 58-9Kathesimbhu Stupa 70Kathmandu 49, 54-111, 56-7, 60-1,

64, 72, 75, 80-1, 6-7accommodation 54, 78-9, 82-91activities 76-8climate 54courses 78drinking 97-8entertainment 98-100festivals & events 78food 54, 91-7highlights 56-7history 55internet access 102itineraries 55medical services 102money 102-3orientation 58safety 103shopping 100-2sights 55, 58-9, 62-71, 74, 76tourist information 104travel seasons 54travel to/from 104-6travel within 106-7walking tours 71, 72-3, 75, 72, 75

Kathmandu Environmental Education Project 47

Kathmandu International Marathon 78Kathmandu Valley 8, 50, 112-81, 113

accommodation 112climate 112highlights 113history 114safety 114travel seasons 112

Kattike 171

kayaking, see rafting & kayakingKEEP 47Khadga Devi Temple 189Khokana 165Kichandra Bahal 71King Bhupatindra Malla’s Column

145King Pratap Malla’s Column 64-5King Yoganarendra Malla’s Statue 127Kirati people 306, 330Kirtipur 160-1Kodari 179Konti Hiti 132Kopan Monastery 123-4Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve 259-60Kot Sq 64Krishna Jayanti 20Krishna Mandir 127Krishna Temple (Kathmandu) 64Krishna Temple (Patan) 127-8Kumari Bahal 62-3Kumari Devi 62-3, 66Kumbeshwar Temple 131-2Kuwa 256

LLakshmi Mishwar Mahadev 76Langtang Valley Trek 11, 283-4,

286-7, 11language 14, 388-95

courses 120-1, 364-5Last Resort 178-9Laurebina Yak 289legal matters 365Lele Valley 165leopards 343lesbian travellers 363-4Letdar 278Lhotshampa people 262Licchavi era 307-8, 334Limbu people 329-30Linh Son Monastery 239Liping Gompa 179literature 338, 339, see also booksLiving Traditions Museum 157Lo Manthang 279, 294load-shedding 369Lobuche East 272Lohan Chowk 69Lohan Dehar 161Lokakirti Mahavihar 136Lokamani Pula Pagoda 239Losar 19, 121, 199Lubbhu 296Lumbini 10, 236-41, 236, 10Lumbini Crane Sanctuary 238Lumbini Museum 238lunar calendar 368

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

402

INdeX M

-N

mMachhapuchhare Base Camp

282Machhendranath 323Magar people 326, 331magazines 362Magh Sankranti 177Maha Astami 21Maha Shivaratri 19, 118Mahabharat Range 51, 341, 218-19Mahabharata 320Mahabouddha Temple 133-4Mahaguthi 353Mahendra 313Mahendra Gufa 213Mahendranagar 253-4Mahendranagar border crossing 252,

253, 375-6Mahendreshwar Temple 67Mai Pokhari 264Maju Deval 59Makalu 273Makalu Base Camp 291Makhan Tole 67malaria 384Malekhu 184Malla era 308-9, 334Manakamana cable car 184Manakamana Temple 184Manang 278Manang Samaj Stupa 239Manga Hiti 127Mani Mandap 127Mani Rimdu 22, 271-2, 21Manjushree Park & Cave 162Maoist insurgency 221-2, 249, 304,

305, 314-16maps 34marmots 344Marpha 279Marsyangdi 299-300Maru Hiti 59Maru Mandapa Mahavihar 131Maru Tole 59massage 77, 78Maya Devi 238, 241Maya Devi Temple 237-8measures 362medical services 384meditation centres

Dhama Janami Vipassana Centre 239

Ganden Yiga Chopen Meditation Centre 196

Himalayan Buddhist Meditation Centre 134

Kagyu Institute of Buddhist Studies 161

Kopan Monastery 124Nepal Vipassana Centre 78Panditarama International

Vipassana Meditation Centre 238

meditation courses 78, 124, 134, 161Meghauli 226meningococcal meningitis 382Mera Peak 272Military Museum 111Minnath Temple 132Mithila art 258Mithila villages 256mobile phones 370Mohan Chowk 70momos 13, 13monasteries 121

Drubgyud Chöling Gompa 238Gautami Nun’s Temple 239I Baha Bahi 132Jangchub Choeling Gompa 195Ka-Nying Sheldrup Ling Gompa

120Kopan Monastery 123-4Linh Son Monastery 239Liping Gompa 179Lumbini 238-9Mother Temple of the Graduated

Path to Enlightenment 239Neyndo Tashi Choling 164Ralo Gompa 163Rigon Tashi Choling 164Rigzu Phodrang Gompa 163 Royal Thai Buddhist Monastery

239Shechen Tennyi Dargyeling Gompa

120Sokyo Gompa 239Sri Lankan Monastery 239Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery

175Uku Bahal 134Zhong Hua Chinese Buddhist

Monastery 239money 14, 15, 365-6monkeys 343Mother Temple of the Graduated

Path to Enlightenment 239motorcycle travel 377, 380mountain biking 38-41, 292-7

clothing 40-1equipment 40Hetauda to Narayangarh &

Mugling 296-7Jomsom to Lo Manthang 294-5Kathmandu to Pokhara 293-4

Kathmandu Valley Loop 295-6Muktinath to Pokhara 295Pokhara to Sarangkot & Naudanda

297Rajpath from Kathmandu 296road conditions 40safety 41Scar Road from Kathmandu 292-3tours 39-40transporting your bicycle 40

Mountain Botanical Gardens 246mountaineering courses 272Mrigasthali Deer Park 117Mt Everest 6, 341, 7Muktinath 278-9Mul Chowk (Kathmandu) 69Mul Chowk (Patan) 130museums

Brass & Bronze Museum 148-9Bungamati Culture Museum 165Changu Museum 157Gorkha Museum 186Gurkha Museum 194International Mountain Museum

194Living Traditions Museum 157Lumbini Museum 238Military Museum 111Mustang Eco Museum 209Narayanhiti Palace Museum 74National Museum 111Natural History Museum 110-11Panauti Peace Gallery 176Patan Museum 129-30Pokhara Regional Museum 194Tharu Cultural Museum 250Tribhuvan Museum 69Tripureshwar Mahadev Temple 76Woodcarving Museum 148

music 337-8courses 78

Mustang 279, 291, 294-5, 309Mustang Eco Museum 209Myanmar Golden Temple 239

NNaga Panchami 20, 149Naga Pokhari 145Nagar Mandap Sri Kirti Vihar 161Nagarjun Hill 124Nagarkot 167-71, 168, 18Nagi Gompa 125-6Namche Bazaar 270Namobuddha 175Nara Devi Temple 74Narayangarh 220-1Narayanhiti Palace Museum 74Nar-Phu 291

403IN

deX N-R

Narsingha 162Nasal Chowk 68National Art Gallery 144National Birendra Art Gallery 74National Museum 111national parks & conservation areas

346-7, see also wildlife reservesBanke National Park 348Bardia National Park 249-53Chitwan National Park 9, 221-34,

222-3, 9fees 35 internet resources 343Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve

259-60Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park

124, 125-6Natural History Museum 110-11Naudhara Community Forest 166Naudhara Kunda 166Navadurga dancers 155Navami 21Nepal basics 14-15Nepalganj 247-9Nepalganj border crossing 247, 376Nepali calendar 368Nepali language 388-95New Year celebrations 19, 22Newari architecture 335-6Newari calendar 368Newari people 114, 330newspapers 362Neyndo Tashi Choling 164Ni Bahal 149nunneries 125-6, see also monasteriesNuwakot 180Nyakhuchowk Bahal 136Nyatapola Temple 141

OOm Namo Guru Buddha Gyani 259opening hours 359

PPachali Bhairab 76Pachali Bhairab Jatra 20Padmasambhava 325Pahar zone 341-2painting 336palaces

Bhimsen Mandir 243Gaddhi Baithak 63Gorkha Durbar 187, 186Hanuman Dhoka 67-70Ranighat Durbar 245

Paljorling 195Palpa 243-4, 243Panauti 175-7

Panauti Peace Gallery 176Panch Deval 116Panditarama International Vipassana

Meditation Centre 238paragliding 189, 198parahawking 198Parvati 322Pashupatinath 115-18, 116Pashupatinath Temple (Bhaktapur)

146passports 373Patan 12, 126-40, 128-9, 132, 136,

12accommodation 135activities 134entertainment 139food 135, 138-9history 126medical services 140shopping 139-40sights 126-34travel to/from 140walking tours 136-7, 136

Patan Museum 129-30Paungda Danda 278Peacock Window 148peoples 328-32People’s War 304, 305, 314-16Pharping 162-4Phewa Festival 199Phewa Tal 193, 10photography 366-7

etiquette 355Phulpati 21Phuntsok Yougyel 204pipal trees 324, 345-6Pisang 278planning 14-15, see also individual

locationsbudgeting 14calendar of events 19-22itineraries 23-7Nepal’s regions 49-51travel seasons 19-20, 22trekking 28-37volunteering 46-8

plants 224, 324, 345-6poaching 349Pokhara 10, 50, 191-212, 192, 196,

201, 207, 214-15, 10accommodation 191, 199-200,

202-5activities 195-9climate 191, 193drinking 207-8entertainment 208festivals & events 199food 191, 205-7highlights 192

internet access 210itineraries 195medical services 210money 210shopping 208-9sights 193-5tourist information 210tours 199travel seasons 191travel to/from 210-12travel within 212

Pokhara Regional Museum 194Pokhara street festival 22polio 382political climate 368-9politics 304, 305, 312-18pollution 351Poon Hill 281, 283population 304-5, 327-8porters 30-1postal services 367Potters’ Sq 149, 152public holidays 367, 368puja 320Pujari Math 148Pulchowki Mountain 167Purang 279

Rrabies 382, 384radio 362rafting & kayaking 11, 41-5, 297-301,

11, see also canoeingBardia National Park 250Bhote Kosi 298books 41clinics 44-5equipment 41internet resources 41-2Karnali 300Kathmandu 77-8Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve 259Marsyangdi 299-300organised trips 42-4Pokhara 197-8rivers 42-3safety 44seasons 41Seti Khola 299Sun Kosi 300Tamur 301Trisuli 297-8Upper Kali Gandaki 299Upper Sun Kosi 298-9

Rai people 329-30raksi 364Ralo Gompa 163Ram Bahadur Banjan 259

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

404

INdeX R

-T

Ram Chandra Temple 76Ram Mandir 256Ram Sita Bibaha Mandir 256Ram Temple 117Rama Navami 257Ramkot 189Rana era 311-12Rani Pokhari 74Ranighat Durbar 245Ratna Temple 185-6Rato Machhendranath 20, 134, 135Rato Machhendranath Temple

(Bungamati) 164-5Rato Machhendranath Temple

(Patan) 133religion 305, 319-25, 326repoussé metalwork 336responsible travel 351-5

trekking 35-6restricted-area treks 290-1rhinoceroses 224, 225, 249-50, 343,

349, 25safety 228

rhododendrons 345Ridi Bazaar 245Rigon Tashi Choling 164Rigzu Phodrang Gompa 163Rishikesh Mandir 245rock climbing

Bandipur 189Kathmandu 77Nagarjun Hill 124Nagarkot 168

royal Bengal tigers 225Royal Palace (Bhaktapur) 144-5Royal Palace (Patan) 128-9Royal Thai Buddhist Monastery 239Royal Trek, see Annapurna Skyline

Trek royal-family massacre 316-17Rupa Devi 240Rupa Tal 213-15

sSaat Tale Durbar 180sadhus 321safety 368-9

air travel 378-9Kathmandu 103Kathmandu Valley 114kayaking & rafting 44mountain biking 41road 380trekking 36-7

wildlife 228women travellers 372

Sagarmatha National Park Visitor Centre 270

Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee 270

Sakya Tharig Gompa 163saligrams 341Sandakpur 264Sankhu 159-60Santa Chaudhari 251Sarangkot 212-13, 297Saraswati 323Satighata tea plantation 265Sauraha 230-2, 233, 231scams 369scenic flights 76-7, 195sculpture 334-6Seti Karnali 300Seti Khola 299Seti River 194, 301Seto (White) Bhairab 65Seto Machhendranath 19, 70Seto Machhendranath Temple 70-1sex trade 332Shah, Prithvi Narayan 180, 187,

309-10Shah dynasty 309-11, 312-13shamanism 325Shamser, Kaiser 69Shanti Ban Buddha 166Shechen Tennyi Dargyeling Gompa

120Shekala Mai Temple 165Sherpa people 329, 330Shesh Narayan Temple 162-3shikhara temples 336Shiva 321Shiva-Parvati Temple 59, 62Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park

124, 125-6Shivapuri Peak 126shopping, see also individual

locationsfair-trade products 139, 140haggling 353responsible shopping 352-3

Shree Rikheshwar Mahadev Mandir 246

Shreenagar Danda 245Shrikandapur 177Siddha Gufa 187-8Siddha Pokhari 149Siddhartha Art Gallery 74Siddhartha Gautama 241, 306, 324

birthplace of 10, 236-7, 238, 10Siddhartha Hwy 242-5Sikha Narayan Temple 72-3silkworms 189

Singh Sattal 59Sita 322Sita Bibaha Panchami 22, 257Sitalpati 243sloth bears 225, 228snow leopards 343Sokyo Gompa 239Sri Lankan Monastery 239statuary 336strikes 368-9stupas

Bodhnath 9, 120, 9Chabahil 118Great Drigung Kagyud Lotus

Stupa 239Kathesimbhu 70Manang Samaj Stupa 239Namobuddha 175Swayambhunath 12, 107-10,

109, 12Sukla Phanta Wildlife Reserve 253Sun Dhoka 144-5Sun Kosi 298-9, 300Sunauli 234-6Sunauli border crossing 234, 235,

375Sundari Chowk 130-1Suriya Binayak Temple 155Swayambhunath 12, 107-10, 109, 12swimming 198

TTachupal Tole 147-9, 148Tadhunchen Bahal 147tahr 344Taleju Bell (Bhaktapur) 145-6Taleju Bell (Patan) 127Taleju Bhawani Temple 130Taleju Temple (Bhaktapur) 145Taleju Temple (Kathmandu) 67Taleju Temple (Patan) 130Tamang Heritage Trail 285-7,

286-7Tamang people 329Tamur 301Tansen (Palpa) 243-4, 243Tara 323Tarap Valley Loop 291Tashi Ling 195Tashi Palkhel 195Tatopani 281Taumadhi Tole 141, 143, 146taxes 366, 375taxis 380-1tea 363tea plantations 263, 264-5Teej 20telephone services 369-70

405IN

deX Ttemples 16, 336

Adinath Lokeshwar Temple 161-2Akash Bhairab Temple 71Amar Narayan Mandir 244Annapurna Temple 70architecture 334-6Bachhareshwari Temple 116Bagh Bhairab Temple 160-1Bhagwati Temple 63Bhairab Sthan Temple 245Bhairabnath Temple 141, 143Bhimsen Temple (Bhaktapur)

148, 150Bhimsen Temple (Patan) 126Bindhya Basini Temple 193-4Bishwakarma Temple 137Brahmayani Temple 176Chandra Binayak Ganesh Temple

118Changu Narayan Temple 156-7,

156Chilanchu Vihara 161Dakshinkali 164Dattatreya Temple 147-8Degutaleju Temple 66Drölma Lhakhang 163Erotic Elephants Temple 143Fasidega Temple 147Gokarna Mahadev Temple 157-8,

158Golden Temple 131Gorakhnath Temple 117Guhyeshwari Temple 117-18Hari Shankar Temple 127Ichangu Narayan 124Indrapur Temple 66Indrayani Temple 144Indreshwar Mahadev Temple 176Jagannarayan Temple 127Jagannath Temple 65Jaisi Deval Temple 76Jal Binayak Temple 162Janaki Mandir 256Jaya Varahi Temple 149Jyotirlingeshwar Temple 149 Kabindrapur Temple 59Kakeshwar Temple 66-7Kalika Temple 187Karya Binayak Temple 165Kasthamandap 58-9Khadga Devi Temple 189Kotilingeshwar Mahadev Temple 67Krishna Mandir 127Krishna Temple (Kathmandu) 64Krishna Temple (Patan) 127-8Kumbeshwar Temple 131-2Lunchun Lunbun Ajima 71Mahabouddha Temple 133-4Mahalaxmi Temple 189

Mahendreshwar Temple 67Maju Deval 59Manakamana Temple 184Maya Devi Temple 237-8Minnath Temple 132Myanmar Golden Temple 239Nara Devi Temple 74Nateshwar Temple 72Newari pagoda style 335-6Nyatapola Temple 141Panch Mukhi Hanuman Temple 68Pashupatinath 115-18, 116Pashupatinath Temple

(Bhaktapur) 146Ram Chandra Temple 76Ram Mandir 256Ram Sita Bibaha Mandir 256Ram Temple 117Ratna Temple 185-6Rato Machhendranath Temple

(Bungamati) 164-5Rato Machhendranath Temple

(Patan) 133Salan Ganesh Temple 149Seto Machhendranath Temple 70-1Shekala Mai Temple 165Shesh Narayan Temple 162-3Shiva-Parvati Temple 59, 62Siddhi Lakshmi Temple 146Sikha Narayan Temple 72-3Suriya Binayak Temple 155Swayambhunath 107-10, 109, 12Taleju Temple (Bhaktapur) 145Taleju Temple (Kathmandu) 67Taleju Temple (Patan) 130Tana Deval Temple 67Three Goddesses Temples 74Til Mahadev Narayan Temple 143Tin Deval Temple 76Trailokya Mohan Narayan

Temple 59Ugratara Temple 73Uma Maheshwar Temple (Kirtipur)

161Uma Maheshwar Temple (Patan)

137Vajra Varahi Temple 165Vajra Yogini Temple 163Vajrayogini Temple 159-60Varahi Mandir 193Vatsala Durga Temple 145Vishwanath Temple 127Vishwarup Temple 117

tempos 381Tengboche 271-2Terai 51, 216-65, 341, 218-19, 221,

248-9, 254-5accommodation 216climate 216

food 216highlights 218-19history 217travel seasons 216travel to/from 217travel within 217

tetanus 382Thakali people 328-9Thame 273-4Tharkot 170Tharu Cultural Museum 250Tharu people 332Tharu villages 226theft, artworks 335theft, personal possessions 369Thimi 155Thorung La 275, 278Thorung Phedi 278Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery

175Three Goddesses Temples 74Tibet border crossing 179, 376-7Tibetan Buddhism 324-5, see also

BuddhismTibetan carpets 337Tibetan people 329Tibetan settlements 195, 204tigers 225, 249, 251, 343

safety 228Tihar 22, 257tikas 319Tika Bhairab 165Tilaurakot 241-2time 370TIMS card 34tipping 366toilets 370tongba 364tourism, impact of 349tourist information 370tours 381, see also walking tours

motorcycle 380mountain bike 39-40Pokhara 199to Tibet 377

Trailokya Mohan Narayan Temple 59

train travel 381Trans-Himalaya 342travel seasons 14travel to/from Nepal 373-7travel within Nepal 377-81traveller’s diarrhoea 37, 385trees 345-6trekking 16, 266-91, 359, see also

day treksaccommodation 267, 268acute mountain sickness 385-7agencies 31-2

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

406

INdeX T-Z

trekking continuedAnnapurna Circuit Trek 8, 274-81,

276-7, 2-3, 8Annapurna Sanctuary Trek 281-2,

276-7Annapurna Skyline Trek 283, 276-7avalanches 282Beni to Dolpo trek 291books 31Chhukung 274clothing 32-3equipment 33Everest Base Camp Trek 6, 267-74,

270-1, 7fees 34-5food 267footwear 33Ghachok Trek 282-3 276-7Ghorepani to Ghandruk Loop 283

276-7Gosainkund Trek 287-9, 288Great Himalayan Trail 279guides 30-1health 36-7, 384Helambu Trek 289, 290Hugdi to Chitwan National Park 190independent trekking 29insurance 37internet resources 34Island Peak 272Kanchenjunga 291Kathmandu 77Kathmandu Valley 114Langtang Valley Trek 11, 283-4,

286-7, 11language 391Lobuche East 272Makalu Base Camp 291maps 34Mera Peak 272Mustang 291Nagarkot to Changu Narayan 170Nagarkot to Dhulikhel 170Nagarkot to Sankhu 171Nagarkot to Sundarijal 171Namche Bazaar to Gokyo

Valley 273Namche Bazaar to Thame 273-4Nar-Phu 291organised treks 31-2, 267peaks 272permits 35, 210planning 28-37porters 30-1

responsible trekking 35-6restricted-areas treks 290-1safety 36-7seasons 29Tamang Heritage Trail 285-7,

286-7Tarap Valley Loop 291useful organisations 33-4voluntrekking 46-7women trekkers 372

trekking peaks 272Tribhuvan, King 69, 312Tribhuvan Hwy 246-7Tribhuvan Museum 69Tripureshwar Mahadev Temple 76Trisuli River 297-8tuberculosis 382Tukuche 280Tundikhel 188-9Tusha Hiti 130TV 362typhoid 383

UUku Bahal 134Uma 323Uma Maheshwar Temple (Kirtipur)

161Uma Maheshwar Temple (Patan)

137upper Mustang 294-5Upper Seti River 301Upper Sun Kosi 298-9

Vvacations 367, 368vaccinations 382-3Vajra Varahi Temple 165Vajra Yogini Temple 163Vajrayogini Temple 159-60Varahi Mandir 193Vatsala Durga Temple 145Vedas 320viewpoints 18

Bhedetar 262Daman 246Kahun Danda 198-9Kakani 180Nagarkot 167-8Poon Hill 281, 283Sarangkot 212-13Thani Mai Temple 187Tundikhel 188-9

Vijaya Dashami 21visas 370-2, 373Vishnu 321-2Vishwanath Temple 127

Vishwarup Temple 117volunteering 46-8, 85voluntrekking 46-7vultures 342

Wwalking, see trekkingwalking tours

Bhaktapur 150-1, 150Kathmandu 71, 72-3, 75, 72, 75Patan 136-7, 136

waste disposal 36water 36, 350, 363, 387waterfalls 194weather 14, 19-20, 22, see also

individual locationswebsites, see internet resourcesweights 362white-water rafting, see rafting &

kayakingwildlife 342-5, see also individual

animalsendangerment of 352

wildlife reserves, see also national parks & conservation areas

Lumbini Crane Sanctuary 238Sukla Phanta Wildlife Reserve 253

wildlife watching 17Bardia National Park 249-50, 251Chitwan National Park 224, 225Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve

259-60Lumbini Crane Sanctuary 238Sukla Phanta Wildlife Reserve 253

Wilson, Maurice 274women in Nepal 258, 327, 332-3women travellers 372Woodcarving Museum 148World Elephant Polo

Championships 22World Peace Pagoda (Lumbini) 238World Peace Pagoda (Pokhara) 205

Yyellow fever 383yetis 280Yita Chapal 70yoga

Kathmandu 77, 78Patan 135Pokhara 197

ZZhong Hua Chinese Buddhist

Monastery 239ziplining 197zoos 134

407

Walking TourDetour

Walking Tour

Path

Beach

Diving/Snorkelling

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

DrinkingCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder CrossingBus

CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParkingPetrol StationTaxiTrain/RailwayTramOther Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

Beach/Desert

Cemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

Top Sight(Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity/Course/Tour

BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Secondary

Unsealed Road

Tunnel

Cable Car/Funicular

Sights

Activities, Courses& Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking

Information

Transport Geographic

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

RoutesMap Legend

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