new england 9 - preview (chapter) · the brilliance of fall in new england is legendary. scarlet...
TRANSCRIPT
New England
Benedict Walker, Isabel Albiston, Amy C Balfour, Robert Balkovich, Gregor Clark,
Adam Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Regis St Louis, Mara Vorhees
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Mainep360
NewHampshire
p318
Vermontp272
Central Massachusetts& the Berkshires
p172
RhodeIslandp203
Connecticutp236
Around Boston p94
Cape Cod, Nantucket& Martha's Vineyardp126
Boston p42
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to New England . . . . . . . . . . . 4New England Map . . . . . . . 6New England’s Top 16 . . . . 8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 16Accommodations . . . . . . 18If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . 20Month by Month . . . . . . . 23Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Outdoor Activities . . . . . 34Regions at a Glance . . . . 38
BOSTON . . . . . . . . . . . 42
AROUND BOSTON . . .94West of Boston . . . . . . . . 97Lexington . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Concord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Lowell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102North Shore . . . . . . . . . . 104Salem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Gloucester . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109Rockport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Ipswich & Essex . . . . . . . . 115Newburyport . . . . . . . . . . . 116South Shore . . . . . . . . . 119Quincy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Plymouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120New Bedford . . . . . . . . . . . 124
CAPE COD, NANTUCKET & MARTHA’S VINEYARD . . . . . . . . 126Cape Cod . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Sandwich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Falmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Hyannis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Yarmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Dennis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Brewster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138Harwich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139Chatham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Orleans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Eastham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Wellfleet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Truro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Provincetown . . . . . . . . . . 148Nantucket & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Nantucket Town . . . . . . . . 155Siasconset . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161South Shore . . . . . . . . . . . 162Martha’s Vineyard . . . . 163Vineyard Haven . . . . . . . . . 165Oak Bluffs . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Edgartown . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168West Tisbury . . . . . . . . . . . 170Aquinnah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171
CENTRAL MASSACHUSETTS & THE BERKSHIRES . . . 172Central Massachusetts . . . . . . . 174Worcester . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Sturbridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Pioneer Valley . . . . . . . . .177Springfield . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Northampton . . . . . . . . . . 181Amherst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184Shelburne Falls . . . . . . . . . 186The Berkshires . . . . . . . 187Great Barrington & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Stockbridge . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Lee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Lenox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Pittsfield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Williamstown . . . . . . . . . . . 197North Adams . . . . . . . . . . . 199Mt Greylock State Reservation . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
RHODE ISLAND . . . 203Providence . . . . . . . . . . . 206Blackstone River Valley . . . . . . . . . . 213Woonsocket . . . . . . . . . . . . 214East Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Bristol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Tiverton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Little Compton . . . . . . . . . 217Newport . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218Jamestown & Conanicut Island . . . 226Southern Rhode Island . . . . . . . . . 228Block Island . . . . . . . . . . 230
CONNECTICUT . . . . 236Hartford . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237Connecticut River Valley . . . . . . . . . . 245East Haddam . . . . . . . . . . 245Chester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247Essex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
ON THE ROAD
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Contents
Old Lyme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Southeastern Connecticut . . . . . . . . . . 249New London . . . . . . . . . . . 249Mystic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251Stonington . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255The Quiet Corner . . . . . 256New Haven . . . . . . . . . . . 257Gold Coast . . . . . . . . . . . 263Westport . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264Ridgefield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265Housatonic Valley . . . . . 266Candlewood Lake . . . . . . . 266Litchfield Hills . . . . . . . . . . 267
VERMONT . . . . . . . . 272Southern Vermont . . . . 274Brattleboro . . . . . . . . . . . . 274Wilmington . . . . . . . . . . . . 277Bennington . . . . . . . . . . . . 278Manchester . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Dorset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Central Vermont . . . . . . 285Woodstock & Quechee Village . . . . . . 286Killington Mountain . . . . . 289Middlebury . . . . . . . . . . . . 291Mad River Valley . . . . . . . .294Northern Vermont . . . . 296Burlington . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297Stowe & Smugglers Notch . . . . . . .306Montpelier . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313Northeast Kingdom . . . . . 314
NEW HAMPSHIRE . . . 318New Hampshire Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320Portsmouth . . . . . . . . . . . .320Rye & Hampton Beach . . . 326Merrimack Valley . . . . . 327Concord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327Manchester . . . . . . . . . . . . 328Monadnock Region . . . . 330Upper Connecticut River Valley . . . . . . . . . . 334Hanover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334Lakes Region . . . . . . . . . 336
Meredith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337Squam Lake . . . . . . . . . . . 338Wolfeboro . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339Weirs Beach & Laconia . . .341White Mountains . . . . . 342North Woodstock & Lincoln . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343Kancamagus Highway . . .346Franconia Notch State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347Littleton & Franconia . . . .349Mt Washington Valley . . .350
MAINE . . . . . . . . . . . 360Southern Maine Coast . . . . . . . . . 363The Yorks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363Ogunquit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365The Kennebunks . . . . . . . .366Saco Bay & Old Orchard Beach . . . . .368Portland . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369Midcoast Maine . . . . . . 376Brunswick . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376Boothbay Harbor . . . . . . . 378Damariscotta . . . . . . . . . . 379Pemaquid Point . . . . . . . .380Monhegan Island . . . . . . . 381Rockland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382Camden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383Rockport . . . . . . . . . . . . . .384Belfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385Inland Maine . . . . . . . . . 387Bangor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387Augusta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .388Sabbathday Lake & Poland Spring . . . . . . . . 389Down East . . . . . . . . . . . 390Deer Isle & Stonington . . .390Mount Desert Island . . 392Bar Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . . 392Acadia National Park . . . .394Cranberry Isles . . . . . . . . .396Machias Bay Area . . . . . . .398Western Maine . . . . . . . 399Bethel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .399Rangeley Lake . . . . . . . . . .400North Maine Woods . . . 401
New England Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 406
New England Literature . . . . . . . . . . . . 415
Universities & Colleges . . . . . . . . . . . 419
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 424
Transportation . . . . . . . 429
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 446
UNDERSTAND
SPECIAL FEATURESAccommodations . . . . . . 18
Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
New England Literature . . . . . . . . . . . 415
Universities & Colleges . . . . . . . . . . . 419
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Plan Your Trip
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Coastal New England
New England is intrinsically tied to the sea – historically, commercially and emotionally. To see this connection firsthand, follow the coastline.
Start in Boston, whose long-standing con-nection to the sea is reflected in a host of waterfront attractions. Follow the Harbor-Walk along the water’s edge from Chris-topher Columbus Park, stopping at the New England Aquarium and the Institute for Contemporary Art. The following day, board a ferry to the Harbor Islands.
Continue northward to Marblehead and Salem, both rich in maritime history. Don’t miss the Peabody Essex Museum and its wonderful maritime exhibit. To glimpse New England’s fishing industry at work – and to sample its culinary treats – journey to Gloucester. This is also your jumping-off point for a whale-watching cruise to Stellwagen Bank.
Circle around Cape Ann to discover the charms of Rockport and the mysteries of Dogtown. Then continue up the coast to frolic in the waves at Crane Beach in Ipswich and feast on fried clams in Essex.
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Portland Head Light (p369)
The New Hampshire coast is scant, but not without merit: walk Hampton Beach’s boardwalk and admire the Colonial- era homes in historic Portsmouth.
Continuing into Maine, spend a day or two exploring Portland. Eat, drink and shop in the Old Port District and check out the Portland Museum of Art. Don’t leave town without snapping a photo of the Port-land Head Light on Cape Elizabeth. Con-tinuing northeast, stop for a seafood lunch and a stroll around lovely (but crowded) Boothbay Harbor, or opt for oysters and bookstore browsing in Damariscotta.
Don’t miss a stop in pretty Camden or artsy Rockland, where you can take a windjammer cruise up the rocky coast. When you return to dry land, clamber to the top of Mt Battie in Camden Hills State Park for sweeping Penobscot Bay views, or continue north to Searsport, home of the wonderful Penobscot Marine Museum.
End in Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park: highlights of the New England coast. You’ll have no problem occu-pying yourself for a weekend or a week, ex-ploring Mount Desert Island’s scenery while hiking, biking, kayaking and camping. For a delicious detour, head to Thurston’s Lob-ster Pound overlooking Bass Harbor.
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The brilliance of fall in New England is legendary. Scarlet and sugar maples, ash, birch, beech, dogwood, tulip tree, oak and sassafras all contribute to the carnival of autumn color.
Start in Connecticut’s Kent. Hike up Cobble Mountain in Macedonia Brook State Park for views of the forested hills against a backdrop of the Taconic and Catskill mountain ranges. Head-ing north on Rte 7, stop at Housatonic Meadows State Park to snap a photo of the Cornwall Bridge, then continue into Massachusetts.
Blanketing the westernmost part of the state, the rounded mountains of the Berkshires start turning crimson and gold as early as mid-September. Set up camp in Great Barrington, a formerly industrial town now populated with art galleries and upscale restaurants. It’s a good base for exploring October Mountain State Forest, a multicolored tapestry of hemlocks, birches and oaks. This reserve’s name – attrib-uted to Herman Melville – gives a good indica-tion of when this park is at its loveliest.
Cruising north from Great Barrington, you’ll pass through the Berkshires’ most charming towns: Stockbridge, Lenox and Williamstown. Stop for a few hours or a few days for fine dining, shopping and cultural offerings. Dedicate at least one day to exploring Mt Greylock State Reservation: the summit offers a panorama stretching up to 100 miles across more than five states.
Cross into Vermont and continue north through the historic villages of Bennington and Manchester. For fall foliage views head to the top of Mt Equinox, where the 360-degree panorama includes the Adirondacks and the lush Battenkill Valley. Continue north to Burlington, your base for frolicking on Lake Champlain, and sail away on a schooner for offshore foliage views.
Head southeast through Montpelier and con-tinue into New Hampshire. Your destination is Bretton Woods, where you can admire the foli-age from the porch of the historic hotel or from a hanging sky bridge. Then make your way to the summit of Mt Washington, whether by car, by train or on foot. When you’re ready to descend from the clouds, follow the headwaters of the Saco River down through the forests of Crawford Notch State Park into North Conway.
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If you’re longing to breathe mountain air and gaze at majestic scenery, follow this route through New England’s high country.
Enter the White Mountains’ embrace amid the waterfalls and gorges of Maine’s little-visited Grafton Notch State Park, then wind your way south into New Hampshire’s awe-inspiring Presidential Range. Pause near Pinkham Notch to admire, photograph and perhaps climb New England’s highest peak, Mt Wash-ington, then continue south through the pretty village of Jackson to North Conway, which offers a plethora of lodging and dining options.
From here, drive west across the White Moun-tain National Forest on the supremely scenic Kancamagus Hwy. This route offers countless opportunities for hiking, camping and other outdoor adventuring. Turn north on I-93 to Franconia Notch State Park, where you can hike down the Flume, ride a tramway up Can-non Mountain and see what little remains of the Old Man of the Mountain. Spend a few nights at one of many welcoming inns in Franconia, or detour for dinner at Bethlehem’s creative Cold Mountain Cafe. From here, enjoy the scenery as you motor west to I-91, heading southwest into Vermont. Expansive vistas unfold with abandon as you approach the Green Mountains on US 4. Continue on to Killington for a day of winter-time skiing or summertime mountain biking.
Turn north on VT 100, often called the spine of the state. Snaking north through the moun-tains, this classic route feels like a backcountry road, littered with cow-strewn meadows and white-steepled churches. Spend a few hours or a few days exploring, turning off on the gap roads and stopping in any number of tiny towns along the way. Don’t miss Warren and Waits-field in the Mad River Valley – a prime spot for browsing art galleries and antique shops, or horseback riding, swimming, tubing and skiing in the surrounding countryside.
Continuing north, make a beeline for the Ben & Jerry’s factory in Waterbury, where you can tour the premises and sample Vermont’s famous ice cream right at the source – not to mention mourn the loss of bygone flavors in the Flavor Graveyard out back. Finally, sidle on up to Stowe, Vermont’s quintessential ski village, and end your trip with more four-season fun in Smugglers Notch, at the foot of Mt Mansfield.
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History lurks round every corner in New England. This itinerary takes you on a journey through some of the region’s prettiest early settlements and most significant historical sites.
Fly into Hartford, CT, and begin your trip at the Gothic Revival–style Wadsworth Atheneum, America’s oldest public art museum, packed with nearly 50,000 artworks. Afterward, visit the gabled and turreted Victorian mansion where Mark Twain spent 17 years in the late 1800s.
Next, it’s off to Connecticut’s oldest village, Stonington – a lovely spot to stroll among the 18th- and 19th-century sea captains’ homes ar-rayed on a peninsula jutting into Block Island Sound. Follow the coast east into Rhode Island and cross Narragansett Bay to Newport. Linger here a day or two to explore the Cliff Walk and tour the city’s impressive 19th-century mansions built by wealthy American industrialists.
Next stop is Providence, where you can soak up the charms of College Hill’s tree-shaded red-brick lanes and wander the beautiful campus of Brown University, founded in 1764.
Hop over to New Bedford, MA, and catch a ferry to Nantucket. In the 19th century, this island was the world’s whaling capital. Today, you can step back in time at the Nantucket Whaling Museum and the Nantucket Atheneum, where luminaries including Ralph Waldo Emer-son and Frederick Douglass once held forth.
Ferry back to the mainland and travel on to Plymouth to learn about the trials and triumphs of the Pilgrims. Next continue to Boston, reliving America’s revolutionary days on a walk along the Freedom Trail and a visit to the Boston Tea Party Ships, or discovering the his-tory of the city’s 19th-century African American community on the Black Heritage Trail. From here, detour northwest to Lexington and Concord to follow the Battle Road and see where the War of Independence began.
Just up the coast, Portsmouth, NH, has one of New England’s most attractive histori-cal centers. The highlight is Strawbery Banke, a 10-acre waterfront parcel preserving some of Portsmouth’s many fine 17th- and 18th-century buildings. End your journey in Woodstock, a quintessential Vermont village of brick-and- clapboard homes surrounding a village green.
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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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WRITER THANKSBenedict WalkerA special thanks to Cheryl Cowie and Keri Berthelot for their guidance, support and Reiki II’s on the road. As always, to Trish Walker for countless hours in the prayer chair, and a big shout-out to family; Andy, Sally and P for making sure I didn’t overdo the lobster! In memory of Kevin Hennessy, Ainsley Crabbe and Ben Carey, my fellow adventurers who passed away in other lands while I was researching this title. A little part of you remains in Rhode Island for me, always. You’ll like it there!
Isabel AlbistonThanks to everyone in Massachusetts who answered my questions so patiently and treated me so kindly, especially to all the museum guides who showed me around along the way. Thanks also to Leah, Julie and Andrea for your warm hospitality and to Trisha for commissioning me for such a great project. Lastly, huge thanks to Ellie, Alan and Liz for traveling out to join me at the end of my trip.
Amy C BalfourThank you Amy Scannell and Michael Billings for your hospitality and NH expertise. Eleanor Barnes and Whit Andrews, endless gratitude for climbing
Behind the Scenes
THIS BOOKThis 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s New England guide-book was researched and written by Benedict Walker, Isabel Albiston, Amy C Balfour, Robert Balkovich, Gregor Clark, Adam Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Regis St Louis and Mara Vorhees. The previous edition was written by Gregor Clark, Carolyn Bain, Mara Vorhees and Benedict Walker.
This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Trisha PingSenior Product Editors Martine Power, Vicky SmithRegional Senior Cartographers Mark Griffiths, Alison Lyall Product Editor Carolyn BoicosBook Designer Gwen Cotter Assisting Editors Imogen Bannister, Michelle Bennett, Nigel Chin, Katie Connolly,
Samantha Cook, Lucy Cowie, Michelle Coxall, Peter Cruttenden, Carly Hall, Kellie Langdon, Kristin Odijk, Mani Ramaswamy, Monica WoodsCover Researcher Meri BlazevskiThanks to Bruce Evans, Jay Farihi, Evan Godt, Shona Gray, David Grumett, Donna Harshman, Andi Jones, Brigitte Mortier, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Angela Tinson, Gillian Weale
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
435BEH
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E SCENES
Mt Washington with me. Peaches and Genienne Hockensmith, thanks for sharing the best of Keene! Cheers to the crew atop New England at Mt Washington Observatory: Adam, Ian, Brian, Zach, Tessa, Bruce and Priscilla. Your passion for weather and your regional recs are much appreciated. Thanks for key assistance Lynn Neumann and Randy Propster. Duby Thomp-son, thanks for lunch in Littleton!
Robert BalkovichThank you to my family – my mother, father and sister – and friends for their love and support. Special thanks to Michael, Raghnild, Elizabeth and Ming for their hospitality and wealth of tips, and to Matthew for your friend-ship on the road. And thank you to Trisha Ping for this opportunity, and many others.
Gregor ClarkThanks to the many fellow Vermonters who shared their favorite spots in the Green Moun-tain State with me this edition – especially Shawn O’Neil, Margo Whitcomb, Victoria St John, Jim Lockridge and Joy Cohen – and to Gaen, Meigan and Chloe for a lifetime of com-panionship on our family adventures in this gorgeous place we call home.
Adam KarlinThanks to: Trisha Ping for letting me poke around the Pine Tree State, the Barclays for hosting us, friends and family and kind strangers met along the way, and Rachel and Sanda, my two favorite partners for climbing up rocks and swimming in the cold ocean.
Brian KluepfelFirst and always, to my wife Paula, my co-pilot in life. Secondly, to all my kinfolk who helped on this journey: June and Alan Kluepfel (formerly
of Noank), Neil Kluepfel and his wife Irene Koenig of Stonington, and Jim and Eileen Flynn of Mystic. Thirdly (and crucially), to Trisha Ping at Lonely Planet who gave me such a delightful assignment.
Regis St LouisI am grateful to countless innkeepers, park rangers, baristas, shop owners and folks ‘from away’ who provided shared Maine insight. Special thanks to Brother Arnold for a fabu-lous meal at Sabbathday Shaker Village, Scott Cowger for the tips and barn tour in Hallowell, Jack Burke and Julie Van De Graaf for their kindness in Castine, and Gregor Clark and Diane Plauche for general Maine suggestions. Special thanks to my family, who make coming home the best part of travel.
Mara VorheesTo the server at a Gloucester restaurant, who recommended that I spend my afternoon at a certain delightful beach (which is not in this book). Thanks for sharing your secret spot. I won’t tell.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.
Cover photograph: Barn, Cape Cod; Owaki – Kulla/Getty Images ©
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Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
AAcadia National Park 10,
394-6, 395, 5, 10accessible travel 424accommodations 18-19, see
also individual locationsactivities 23-5, 34-7, see
also individual activitiessafety 427
Adams, John 119Adams, John Quincy 119African American history
167, 413air travel 429-30, 431Alcott, Bronson 99Alcott, Louisa May 100American Independence
Festival 321American Revolution 408-9Amherst 184-6amusement parks 343, 345,
353, 358antiques 139, 176Appalachian Trail 15, 35, 201,
270, 399, 400, 15aquariums
Echo Leahy Center for Lake Champlain 298
Mystic Aquarium & Institute for Exploration 252-3
New England Aquarium 49
Sea Pocket Aquarium 109
Aquinnah 12, 171, 12area codes 427art galleries, see also
museumsAldrich Contemporary Art
Museum 265-6Center for Maine
Contemporary Art 382Clark Art Institute 198
Currier Museum of Art 328-9
DeCordova Sculpture Park & Museum 98-9
Farnsworth Art Museum 382
Florence Griswold Museum 248
Harvard Art Museums 61Hood Museum of Art 334HyArts District 132Hygienic Art 249Institute of Contemporary
Art 53Isabella Stewart Gardner
Museum 59Laumeister Art Center
279-80List Visual Arts Center 64Martha’s Vineyard
Glassworks 170MASS MoCA 199Mead Art Museum 185Museum of Fine Arts
(Boston) 59Museum of Fine Arts
(Springfield) 178New Britain Museum of
American Art 243Newport Museum of
Art 222North Adams Art Walk
200North Shore Arts
Association 110Portland Museum of
Art 369Provincetown Art
Association & Museum 148-9
Punto Urban Art Museum 104
RISD Museum of Art 206Rocky Neck Art Colony
109Sculpturedale 270Smith Art Museum 178Smith College Museum
of Art 181
Southern Vermont Arts Center 282
SoWa Artists Guild 55St Johnsbury Athenaeum
315Thorne-Sagendorph Art
Gallery 333Underground at Ink Block
54-5West Branch Gallery &
Sculpture Park 308Whistler House Museum
of Art 102Williams College Museum
of Art 198Worcester Art Museum
174Yale Center for British
Art 258Yale University Art Gallery
258arts 20-1ATMs 426Augusta 388-9
BBangor 387-8Bantam 268Bar Harbor 392-4Barn Island 255Bartholomew’s Cobble
188baseball 59bathrooms 427Battleship Cove 125beaches 12, 21-2
Acadia National Park 394, 5
Block Island 231Boston 66Cape Cod National
Seashore 144Chatham 140Dennis 136Eastham 143-4Edgartown 169Falmouth 129
Gloucester 110Hammonasset Beach
State Park 246Hampton Beach 326Hyannis 133Ipswich 115Machias Bay 398Misquamicut 229Nantucket 162Narragansett 228New London 250Newport 218Oak Bluffs 167Ogunquit 365Old Orchard Beach
368Orleans 142-3Plum Island 117Provincetown 149Rockport (Massachusetts)
113Rye 326Siasconset 161Stonington (Maine) 390Truro 147Westerly 229Wellfleet 145Yarmouth 135
Beecher-Stowe, Harriet 241-2
beer 22, 182, 267, see also breweries
Belfast 385-7Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream
Factory 311, 30Bennington 278-81Berkshires 39, 172, 187-202,
189, 28-9accommodations 172climate 172food 172highlights 173, 173travel seasons 172
Bethel 399-400Bethlehem 349bicycling, see cyclingBiddeford 368
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
437IN
DEX B
-C bird-watching
Barn Island Wildlife Management Area 255
Eagle Landing State Park 246
Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary 169
Grafton Notch State Park 399
Grassland Bird Conservation Center 257
Long Point Wildlife Refuge 170
Old Lyme 249Parker River National
Wildlife Refuge 117VINS Nature Center 286Wellfleet Bay Wildlife
Sanctuary 145-6Blackstone River Valley
213-15Block Island 230-5, 232Blue Hill Peninsula 397blueberries 293boat travel 431, 432boat trips 36-7
Boston 64-5, 66Burlington 300Damariscotta 379Lake Champlain
299-300Newport 222-3Penobscot Bay 13, 13Plymouth 122Portsmouth 323Squam Lake 338Weirs Beach 341Wolfeboro 340
books 404history 406, 411, 412literature 22, 415-18
Boothbay Harbor 378-9border crossings 430Boston 38, 42-93
accommodations 42, 69-74, 70-1
activities 64-6Back Bay 55, 58-9, 73-4,
79-80, 89, 56-7Beacon Hill & Boston
Common 44-5, 69, 75, 81, 87, 46-7
Boston Harbor Islands 63-4
Cambridge 59-63, 74, 80-1, 83-4, 89-90, 60, 62
Charlestown 52-3, 72children, travel with 44climate 42
Downtown & Waterfront 45, 48-50, 69, 72, 75-6, 82, 87-8, 46-7
drinking & nightlife 81-4
emergency services 90entertainment 84-7festivals & events 68-9food 42, 74-81highlights 43, 43history 44internet access 90internet resources 91Kenmore Square &
Fenway 59, 74, 80, 83, 56-7
LGBTQ+ travelers 67medical services 90Seaport District & South
Boston 53-4, 72-3, 77-8, 82, 88
shopping 87-90sights 15, 44-64South End & Chinatown
54-5, 73, 78-9, 82-3, 89, 56-7
tourist offices 90-1tours 66-8travel seasons 42travel to/from 91-2travel within 92-3walks 51, 68, 51West End & North End
50, 52, 72, 76-7, 88Boston Calling 23Boston Light 64Boston Marathon 23Boston Red Sox 87Boston Symphony
Orchestra 84-5bowling 66, 105Brattleboro 274-7, 275Breakers, the 218, 11Bretton Woods 354-6breweries 22
Abandoned Building Brewery 183
Alchemist Brewery 307Cisco Brewers 162Fort Hill Brewery 183Hill Farmstead Brewery
314Magic Hat Brewery
297-8Monhegan Brewing
Company 381New City Brewery
183Tree House Brewing
Company 177
Brewster 138-9Brimfield Antique Show
176Bristol 215-16Brooklin 397Brown University 207,
419, 33Brownington 302Brunswick 376-8budget 17, 18, 425Burlington 297-306, 298bus travel 430, 432business hours 426
Ccable cars 347Cadillac Mountain 394Cambridge 59-63, 74, 80-1,
83-4, 89-90, 60, 62Camden 383-4camping 18, 19Candlewood Lake 266-7Cannon Mountain 347canoeing, see kayaking &
canoeingCanterbury Shaker Village
327Cape Cod 38, 126, 127,
128-55, 127, 130-1Cape Cod National
Seashore 144Cape Cod Potato Chip
Factory 134Cape Cod Rail Trail 137car travel 427, 430, 432-3casinos 180Castine 397Castle in the Clouds 337cell phones 16cemeteries
Copp’s Hill Burying Ground 50
Edson Cemetery 103Forest Hills 54Granary Burying Ground
45Grove Street Cemetery
260Hancock Cemetery 119Hope Cemetery 313King’s Chapel & Burying
Ground 50Mt Auburn Cemetery 61Tyler Point Cemetery 215 West Cemetery 184
central Massachusetts 39, 172, 174-7
accommodations 172climate 172food 172
highlights 173, 173travel seasons 172
Chappaquiddick 168Chatham 140-2cheese 278, 282Chester 247children, travel with 19,
44, 424Chilmark 166churches
First Congregational Church 157
King’s Chapel & Burying Ground 50
Old First Church 279Old North Church 50Park St Church 51Seamen’s Bethel 124Trinity Church (Boston)
55, 15Trinity Church (Newport)
222Citgo Sign 59Cliff Walk 223climate 16, 23, 24, 25, 427,
see also individual regions
climbing 351colleges & universities 14,
419-22Amherst College 184-5Berklee College of Music
422Boston College 421Boston University 421Bowdoin College 376Brown University 207,
419, 33Dartmouth College 334,
419-20Emerson College 422Harvard University 59,
61, 420, 14Massachusetts College
of Art and Design 422Massachusetts Institute
of Technology 64, 421Middlebury College 421Mount Holyoke College
182Rhode Island School of
Design 207, 421, 422Smith College 181Williams College 198Yale University 258,
419Conanicut Island 226-7Concord (Massachusetts)
98-102, 100Concord (New Hampshire)
327-8
438
IND
EX C-H
Connecticut 39, 236-71accommodations 236climate 236food 236highlights 238-9, 238-9history 237travel seasons 236
Connecticut Beer Trail 267Connecticut River Valley
245-9, 245Connecticut Wine Trail 267Cornwall 271costs 17, 18, 425covered bridges 271Cranberry Isles 396-8Crawford Notch 354-6credit cards 426cruises, see boat tripsculture 404-5currency 16Cutler Coast Public Lands
398cycling 35-6, 431-2, see
also mountain bikingBlackstone River
Bikeway 214Boston 65-6Brattleboro 275Burlington 300Cape Cod Rail Trail 137Falmouth 130Grafton 282Minuteman Commuter
Bikeway 65, 97Northampton 181-2Woodstock 287
DDamariscotta 379-80dangers, see safety Dartmouth College 334,
419-20Deer Isle 390-1Deerfield 186Dennis 136-8Dickinson, Emily 184disabilities, travelers
with 424distilleries 147, 162, 269diving 340Dog Mountain 315Dogtown 111Dorset 285Dr Seuss 178, 179driving 427, 430, 432-3
Eeagles 246, 286, 338, 389East Bay 215-18East Haddam 245-6Eastham 143-5Echo Lake 394economy 405, 414Edgartown 168-70electricity 425Elms, the 219Emerald Necklace 53emergencies 17Emerson, Ralph Waldo
101, 415Essex (Connecticut) 247-8Essex (Massachusetts)
115-16events 23-5, see also
individual eventsexchange rates 426Exeter 321
Ffall foliage 9, 20, 25, 290,
8-9Falmouth 129-32farmers markets
Belfast 385Boston 88, 89Brattleboro 275Bristol 216Burlington 305Chester 247West Tisbury 171
farms 13Allenholm Orchards 304Appleton Farms 115Billings Farm & Museum
286Champlain Orchards 292Coogan Farm 251-2Grace Farms 265Hyland Orchard 176Intervale Center 297Merck Forest & Farmland
Center 283Mount Hope Farm 216Retreat Farm 275Robb Family Farm 275Shelburne Farms 297Sugarbush Farm 286University of Vermont
Morgan Horse Farm 292
Watson Farm 227Windy Hill Farm 188Woodstock Orchards 257
fat biking 35-6, see also cycling, mountain biking
Fenway Park 59ferry travel 247, 431, 432festivals 23-5, see also
individual festivalsmusic 10, 23, 24, 195, 223
films 404fishing 231, 233, 271Flume Gorge 348food 425, see also
individual locationscheese 278, 282costs 425flatbreads 294jam 390lobster 11, 24, 254, 364,
383, 11seafood 20
Fort Adams State Park 221forts 63, 388Franconia 349-50Franconia Notch State Park
11, 347-8, 11Freedom Trail 9, 51, 68, 2, 9Freeport 378Frost, Robert 279, 349
Ggalleries, see art galleriesgardens, see parks &
gardensGardiner 388Gay Head Cliffs 171gay travelers, see LGBTQ+
travelersGeisel, Theodor Seuss
178, 179Georges Island 63Gilford 341Gillette Castle 246Glass Float Project 231Glass House 265Glen 353-4gliding 295Gloucester 109-13Gold Coast 263-6Gorey, Edward 135-6 Gorham 358-9Grafton 282, 290graveyards, see cemeteriesGreat Barrington 188-91Great North Woods 357-8Greenville 402Griswold, Florence 248
HHadley 182Hallowell 388Hampton Beach 326-7
Hanover 334-7, 335Hartford 237-45, 240Harvard Bridge 420Harvard University 59, 61,
420, 14Harvest on the Harbor 25Harwich 139-40health 425Height of Land 400hiking 34-5, see also walks
Acadia National Park 394, 395-6
Appalachian Trail 15, 35, 201, 270, 399, 400, 15
Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail 145
Bartholomew’s Cobble 188
Belknap Mountain 341Block Island 231Boothbay Harbor 379Crawford Notch State
Park 354Dune Shacks Trail 149Equinox Preserve 283Fort Hill 144Franconia Notch State
Park 348Hoosac Range Trail 200Lincoln Woods Trail
346Long Trail 292Lover’s Leap State Park
266Monument Mountain 188Mt Greylock 201Mt Monadnock State
Park 332Northeast Kingdom 315Pinkham Notch 356Rangeley Lake 400Stowe 307West Rattlesnake
Mountain 338White Mountains 346
historic buildings & sites1667 Jabez Howland
House 1211677 Harlow Old Fort
House 1211749 Spooner House
1211809 Hedge House 121Abbott Hall 104Adams National Historic
Park 119Battle Green 97Beauport 109Bennington Battle
Monument 279
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
439IN
DEX H
-M
Bennington Battlefield Historic Site 279
Breakers, the 218, 11Charlestown Navy
Yard 53Colonial Pemaquid State
Historic Site 381Elms, the 219Ethan Allen Homestead
298Faneuil Hall 49Frost Place 349Hancock-Clarke House
97Highfield Hall 129Hildene 282Historic Deerfield Village
186House of the Seven
Gables 104Kingscote 221-2Longfellow House
(Boston) 63Longfellow House
(Portland) 372Lowell National Historic
Park 102Massachusetts
Hall 63Mission House 191Mount 193-4Munroe Tavern 97Nantucket Atheneum
157Narrowest House 52Old Manse 101Old North Bridge 99Old South Meeting
House 48-9Old State House 48Orchard House 100, 21Paul Revere House 50President Calvin
Coolidge State Historic Site 302
Ralph Waldo Emerson Memorial House 101
Richard Sparrow House 121
Rosecliff 221Rough Point 218Salem Maritime National
Historic Site 104Springfield Armory
National Historic Site 178
Thoreau Farm 101Touro Synagogue
National Historic Site 222
Witch House 104-5
historic towns 20 history 406-14
20th & 21st century 413-14
African American history 167, 413
American Revolution 408-9
books 406, 411, 412Boston Tea Party 53-4,
68-9colonization 406independence 408industrial revolution 214,
410-11maritime history 410Native American history
22, 406Pilgrims 120-1, 407Puritans 407-8race relations 413slavery 412, 413Thanksgiving 411, 414War of Independence
409-10witch trials 105
hitchhiking 430-1holidays 426-7horseback riding 269, 295hostels 18hotels 19Housatonic Valley 266-71Hyannis 132-5
Iice skating 208immigration 429inns 18-19insurance 425, 433internet access 425-6internet resources 17, 72, 75Ipswich 115-16islands 21-2, see also
individual islandsIsle au Haut 392itineraries 26-33
JJackson 353-4Jaffrey 332-3Jamaica Pond 53Jamestown 226-7John Hancock Tower 59John Harvard Statue 63Jordan Pond 394
KKancamagus Highway
346-7
kayaking & canoeingDennis 136-7Hanover 335Plum Island 117Portsmouth 323Rockport
(Massachusetts) 113Keene 333-4Kennebunks 366-8Kennedy family sites 52Kent 270Kerouac, Jack 418Killington Mountain 289-91King, Stephen 387Kingdom Trails 316Kingscote 221-2Kipling, Rudyard 418Kittery 368
LLaconia 341-3Lake Champlain 299-300,
304Lake Sunapee 329Lake Waramaug 267-8Lake Willoughby 290Lake Winnipesaukee 12,
336-7, 341, 12language 16leaf-peeping season 9, 20,
25, 290, 8-9Lee 192-3legal matters 426
marijuana legalization 404
Lenox 193-6Leverett Peace Pagoda 184Lexington 97-8LGBTQ+ travelers 426
Boston 67Portland 374Providence 212Provincetown 152
librariesBeinecke Rare Book &
Manuscript Library 258
Boston Public Library 55Camden Public Library
384John F Kennedy
Presidential Library & Museum 54
Mary Baker Eddy Library & Mapparium 58
Providence Athenaeum 206
Provincetown Public Library 149
Redwood Athenaeum 219
lighthouses 22Beavertail Lighthouse
Museum 227Boston Light 64Brant Point Light 156-7Cape Cod Highland
Light 147Chatham Light 141Edgartown Lighthouse
169Gay Head Lighthouse
171Nauset Light 144North Lighthouse 231Nubble Light 363Portland Head Light
369, 27Rear Range Lighthouse
118Rockland Breakwater
Lighthouse 382Sankaty Head Light 161Southeast Light 231
Lincoln 343-6Litchfield 268-9Litchfield Hills 14, 267-71, 14literature 22, 415-18, see
also booksLittle Brewster Island 64Little Compton 217-18 Little Pink House 250Littleton 349-50LL Bean 378lobster 11, 24, 254, 364,
383, 11Longfellow, Henry
Wadsworth 372Lost River Gorge & Boulder
Caves 343Louisburg Square 45Lovells Island 64Lowell 102-4Ludlow 280
MMacDowell Colony 331Machias Bay 398-9Machias Seal Island 398Mad River Glen 290Mad River Valley 294-6Maine 40, 360-402, 377,
391accommodations 360climate 360food 360highlights 361, 361history 362travel seasons 360
Maine Lobster Festival 24, 383
440
IND
EX M-M
Maine Media Workshops 385
Manchester (New Hampshire) 328-30
Manchester (Vermont) 282-5
maple sugaring 281Marblehead 109marijuana legalization 404maritime museums
Battleship Cove 125Cape Cod Maritime
Museum 132Chatham Marconi
Maritime Center 141Custom House Maritime
Museum (New London) 250
Custom House Maritime Museum ( Newburyport) 117
Essex Shipbuilding Museum 115
Herreshoff Marine Museum 216
Maritime Gloucester 109Moosehead Marine
Museum 402Mystic Seaport Museum
251Nantucket Whaling
Museum 156New Bedford Whaling
Museum 124Penobscot Marine
Museum 386Whydah Pirate Museum
135markets, see farmers
marketsMartha’s Vineyard 38, 126,
127, 163-71, 127, 164Mashpee Wampanoag
people 128Massachusetts Institute of
Technology 64, 421Massachusetts State
House 45Mayflower II 120medical services 425memorials, see
monuments & memorials
Menemsha 166Merck Forest & Farmland
Center 283Meredith 337-8Merrimack Valley 327-30
merry-go-rounds 229, 241Middlebury 291-4Minute Man National
Historic Park 97Misquamicut State Beach
229mobile phones 16Moby-Dick 124, 125Monadnock Region 330-4money 16, 17, 424, 426Monhegan Island 381-2Monomoy National Wildlife
Refuge 140-1Montague Bookmill 185Montpelier 313-14Monument Mountain 188monuments & memorials
Boston Massacre Site 48Bunker Hill Monument
52New England Holocaust
Memorial 49Pilgrim Monument 149Plymouth Rock 121Sacrifice Rock 121Witch Trials Memorial
105moose spotting 358Moosehead Lake 402motorcycle travel 427, 430,
432-3Mount Desert Island 392-9,
395mountain biking 35-6, see
also cyclingKillington Mountain 290Mt Snow 277Northeast Kingdom
315-16Mt Equinox Skyline Drive
283Mt Greylock State
Reservation 201-2Mt Holyoke 182Mt Katahdin 401Mt Mansfield 290Mt Monadnock State
Park 332Mt Snow 277Mt Washington Auto Road
355Mt Washington Valley
350-9, 30-1museums, see also art
galleries, maritime museums
Abbe Museum 392-3Amazing World of Dr
Seuss 178American Independence
Museum 321
American Museum of Fly Fishing 282
Beneski Museum of Natural History 185
Bennington Museum 279Berkshire Museum 196-7Berkshire Scenic Railway
Museum 194Boothbay Railway Village
378-9Boott Cotton Mills
Museum 102Boston Children’s
Museum 54Boston Tea Party Ships &
Museum 53-4Bread & Puppet Museum
314-15Brewster Historical
Society Museum 138Buckman Tavern 97Bunker Hill Museum 52Cape Ann Museum 110Cape Cod Museum of
Natural History 138Chatham Railroad
Museum 141Chesterwood 191Children’s Museum 241Concord Museum 99Connecticut Industrial
Museum 270Connecticut River
Museum 248Connecticut Science
Center 240Design Museum Boston
50Discovery Museum &
Discovery Woods 99EcoTarium 174Edward Gorey House
135-6Edward M Kennedy
Institute for the United States Senate 54
Emily Dickinson Museum 184
Enfield Shaker Museum 335
Eric Carle Museum of Picture Book Art 184
Fairbanks Museum & Planetarium 315
Falmouth Museums on the Green 129-30
French Cable Station Museum 143
Fruitlands Museums 99Green Briar Nature
Center & Jam Kitchen 128
Hammond Castle Museum 110
Hancock Shaker Village 196
Harriet Beecher-Stowe Center 241-2
Harvard Museum of Natural History 61-2
Heritage Museums & Gardens 128
Historic Deerfield Village 186
Ipswich Museum 115John Brown House
Museum 207John F Kennedy Hyannis
Museum 132John F Kennedy
Presidential Library & Museum 54
Maine Discovery Museum 387
Maine State Museum 388
Mark Twain House & Museum 240
Martha’s Vineyard Museum 165
Mashpee Wampanoag Museum 128
Mayflower Society Museum 121
MIT Museum 64Museum of African
American History (Boston) 45
Museum of African American History (Nantucket) 157
Museum of Connecticut History 240-1
Museum of Newport History at Brick Market 222
Museum of Science 50Museum of Springfield
History 178Museums of Old York
363Naismith Memorial
Basketball Hall of Fame 177-8
Nantucket Lightship Basket Museum 157-8
National Museum of American Illustration 221
New England Quilt Museum 102-3
Newport Car Museum 219, 221
Norman Rockwell Museum 191
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
441IN
DEX M
-P Park-McCullough House
Museum 279Peabody Essex Museum
104Peabody Museum
of Archaeology & Ethnology 62-3
Peabody Museum of Natural History 260
PEZ Visitor Center & Museum 258
Pilgrim Hall Museum 120Plimoth Grist Mill 121Plimoth Plantation 120Providence Children’s
Museum 207Provincetown Museum
149Robert Frost Stone
House Museum 279Roseland Cottage 256-7Russian Icon Exhibit 176Sandwich Glass Museum
129Shelburne Museum 297Shore Line Trolley
Museum 258Springfield Science
Museum 178Strawbery Banke
Museum 320-1Sugar Shack & Norman
Rockwell Exhibition 279
University of Vermont Fleming Museum 299
Vermont Ski & Snowboard Museum 307
Wadsworth Atheneum 237, 240, 32-3
West End Museum 52Wethersfield Museum at
the Keeney Memorial Cultural Center 241
Whitehorne House Museum 222
WHOI Ocean Science Exhibit Center 133
Wilbor House Museum 217
Witch Dungeon Museum 105
music festivals 10, 23, 24, 195, 223
Mystic 251-4, 252
NNantucket 38, 126, 127,
155-63, 127, 156-7Nantucket Town 155-61, 158Narragansett 228-9
national & state parks, see also nature & wildlife reserves
Acadia National Park 10, 394-6, 395, 5, 10
Baxter State Park 401-2Beartown State Forest
188Beavertail State Park 227Burton Island State
Park 287Camden Hills State Park
383-4Colt State Park 215-16Crawford Notch State
Park 354Eagle Landing State
Park 246Echo Lake State Park
350-1Ferry Beach State Park
368-9Fort Adams State Park
221Franconia Notch State
Park 11, 347-8, 11Grafton Notch State
Park 399Grand Isle State Park 304Green Mountain National
Forest 292Halibut Point State Park
& Reservation 113Hammonasset Beach
State Park 246Jamaica State Park 287Kent Falls State Park 270Lily Bay State Park 402Lover’s Leap State Park
266Lowell National Historic
Park 102Marsh-Billings-
Rockefeller National Historical Park 286
Milan Hill State Park 357Miller State Park 330Minute Man National
Historic Park 97Mount Sunapee State
Park 329Mt Greylock State
Reservation 201-2Mt Monadnock State
Park 332Mt Washington State
Park 351Myles Standish State
Forest 121Nickerson State Park 138October Mountain State
Forest 192-3
Odiorne Point State Park 326
Seyon Lodge State Park 287
Skinner State Park 182Squantz Pond State
Park 266Underhill State Park 287Weeks State Park 357-8White Lake State Park
338Native American culture &
history 22, 406nature & wildlife reserves,
see also national & state parks
Barn Island Wildlife Management Area 255
Cape Poge Wildlife Refuge 168
Cedar Tree Neck Sanctuary 170
Chatham Shark Center 140
Denison Pequotsepos Nature Center 252
Dodge Point Preserve 379
Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary 169
Grassland Bird Conservation Center 257
La Verna Preserve 380-1Linekin & Burley
Preserves 378Long Point Wildlife
Refuge 170Maine Wildlife Park 389Monomoy National
Wildlife Refuge 140-1Napatree Point
Conservation Area 229Parker River National
Wildlife Refuge 117Pleasant Valley
Wilderness Sanctuary 194
Polly Hill Arboretum 170Stellwagen Bank National
Marine Sanctuary 14, 110, 149, 14
VINS Nature Center 286Wellfleet Bay Wildlife
Sanctuary 145-6New Bedford 124-5New Britain 243New Canaan 265New Hampshire 40, 318-59
accommodations 318climate 318food 318
highlights 319, 319history 320travel seasons 318
New Haven 257-63, 259New London 249-51Newburyport 116-19Newfane 276Newport 11, 218-26, 219,
220Newport Folk Festival
24, 223Noank 254North Adams 199-201North Conway 350-3, 29North Woodstock 343-6Northampton 181-4Northeast Kingdom 314-17Norwalk 264
OOak Bluffs 166-8Ogunquit 365-6Okemo Valley 280Old King’s Highway 139Old Lyme 248-9Old Orchard Beach 368opening hours 426Orleans 142-3
Pparks & gardens
Arnold Arboretum 50Back Bay Fens 59Beebe Woods 129Boston Common 45Bushnell Park 241Castle Island & Fort
Independence 54Charles River Esplanade
55Connecticut College
Arboretum 249-50Elizabeth Park Rose
Gardens 240Essex Park 247-8Franklin Park 53Heritage Museums &
Gardens 128Lighthouse Point Park
258Lyman Conservatory 181Olmsted Park 53Prospect Terrace Park
206-7Public Garden (Boston)
45Rose Kennedy Greenway
45, 48Waterplace Park 207World’s End 63-4
442
IND
EX P-V
passports 429Patriots’ Day 98Pawtucket 214Pawtucket Arts Festival 211Peacham 302Pemaquid Point 380-1Penobscot Bay 13, 376, 13Peterborough 330-2Pilgrims 120-1, 407Pinkham Notch 356-7Pioneer Valley 177-87Pittsfield 196-7planning
accommodations 18-19activities 34-7budgeting 17, 18, 425calendar of events 23-5internet resources 17itineraries 26-33New England basics
16-17New England’s regions
38-40travel seasons 16, 23,
24, 25Plum Island 117-18Plymouth 120-4, 122Plymouth Notch 302Plymouth Rock 121Point Judith 228-9Poland Spring 389politics 404-5, 413-14Pomfret 256, 257population 405Portland 369-76, 370-1Portsmouth 320-6, 322postal services 426Preservation Society of
Newport County 221Prospect Mountain 280Providence 206-13, 208Provincetown 148-55, 150Prudence Island 217Prudential Center Skywalk
Observatory 58public holidays 426-7puffins 398Puritans 407-8
QQuechee Gorge 286Quechee Village 286-9Quiet Corner 256-7Quincy 119-20
Rrafting 187Rangeley Lake 400-1Ray & Maria Stata Center 64Revere 108Revere, Paul 50Rhode Island 39, 203-35
accommodations 203climate 203food 203highlights 204, 204history 205travel seasons 203
Rhode Island School of Design 207, 421, 422
Ridgefield 265-6Rock of Ages Quarries 313Rockland 382-3Rockport (Maine) 384-5Rockport (Massachusetts)
113-15Rockwell, Norman 191, 279 Rosecliff 221Rough Point 218Rye 326
SSabbathday Lake 389-90Saco Bay 368-9safety 427
activities 427driving 427, 433hitchhiking 430weather 427
sailing, see boat tripsSalem 104-9, 106Sandwich 128-9scenic drives 20
Acadia National Park 395
Mt Equinox Skyline Drive 283
Mt Washington Auto Road 355
Rangeley Lakes National Scenic Byway 400
Vermont Rte 100 290seafood 20, see also
lobsterSears Island 386Searsport 386Shaker communities
327, 389Shelburne Falls 186-7ships
Mayflower II 120USS Albacore 322USS Constitution 52-3USS Massachusetts 125
shopping 22antiques 139, 176
Siasconset 161-2skating 65skiing 37, 37
Bethel 399Bretton Woods 355Bromley Mountain 283Franconia Notch State
Park 348Grafton 282Jackson 353Jiminy Peak Mountain
Resort 197Killington Mountain 289Loon Mountain 346Ludlow 280Mad River Glen 294-5Middlebury 292Mohawk Mountain Ski
Area 271Mt Snow 277Mt Sunapee Resort 329North Conway 351Northeast Kingdom 316Prospect Mountain 280Rangeley Lake 400Smugglers Notch 309Stowe 308-9Stratton Mountain 283Sugarbush 295Sugarloaf 400Suicide Six 286-7Waterville Valley 343Wolfeboro 340Woodstock (Vermont)
286-7Skull & Bones Club 260Slater Mill 214Smith College 181smoking 424Smugglers Notch 306-13snowboarding 37Somes Sound 394South Deerfield 186South Hadley 182Spectacle Island 63Springfield 177-81, 180Squam Lake 338-9state parks, see national &
state parks Stellwagen Bank National
Marine Sanctuary 14, 110, 149, 14
Stockbridge 191-2Stonington (Connecticut)
255-6Stonington (Maine) 390-1Stowe 306-13, 308
Sturbridge 175-7Sugar Hill 349surfing 162, 326swimming 36, 66synagogues 222
TTanglewood Music Festival
10, 195, 10telephone services 16, 427Thanksgiving 411, 414Thoreau, Henry David 101,
102, 415Thunder Hole 394time 427tipping 426Tiverton 216-17toilets 427Tomb, the 260tourist information
427-8Touro Synagogue National
Historic Site 222train travel 431, 433train trips
Mt Washington 354-5North Conway 351North Woodstock 345 Weirs Beach 341
travel to/from New England 429-31
travel within New England 17, 431-3
trekking, see hikingtrolley tours 67-8Truro 147-8Twain, Mark 240
Uuniversities, see colleges &
universitiesUpper Connecticut River
Valley 334-6
Vvacations 426-7vegetarian & vegan
travelers 76Vermont 39, 272-317
accommodations 272
climate 272food 272highlights 273, 273history 274travel seasons 272
Vermont Rte 100 290Vineyard Haven 165-6
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
443IN
DEX V
-Z vineyards 217
Hopkins Vineyard 267Saltwater Farm Vineyard
255Sharpe Hill 257Shelburne Vineyard 297Snow Farm Winery 304Stowe Cider 307Truro 147White Silo Farm 266
visas 428
WWalden Pond 102walks, see also hiking
Bar Island 393Boston 51, 68, 51Brattleboro 275Burlington Greenway
299Cliff Walk 223Housatonic River Walk
188Kennebunks 367Laconia 341Litchfield 269
Portland 372Smugglers Notch
Boardwalk 308Stowe Recreation Path
310Wolfeboro 340Yorks, the 364
Walpole 330 Wampanoag people 120War of Independence
409-10Watch Hill 229waterfalls
Bartlett Falls 295Bash Bish Falls 190Glacial Potholes 186Jackson Falls 352Kent Falls 270Otter Creek Falls 291Sabbaday Falls 346
WaterFire 210Waterville Valley 343weather 16, 23, 24, 25,
427, see also individual regions
websites, see internet resources
Weirs Beach 341-3Wellfleet 145-7West Cornwall Covered
Bridge 271West Tisbury 170-1Westerly 229-30Weston 280Westport 264-5whale watching
Boston 65-6Gloucester 109, 110Provincetown 150Stellwagen Bank
National Marine Sanctuary 14, 110, 149, 14
White Mountains 11, 342-59, 344
Wildcat Mountain 357wildlife reserves, see
nature & wildlife reserves
Williamstown 197-9Wilmington 277-8windsurfing 165wine 267, see also
vineyards
Winnipesaukee Scenic Railroad 341
Wiscasset 380witch trials 105Wolfeboro 339-41Woods Hole 133Woodstock (Connecticut)
256-7Woodstock (Vermont)
286-9Woonsocket 214-15Worcester 174-5
YYale University 258, 419Yarmouth 135-6yoga 194Yorks, the 363-5
Zzip lining 128, 187zipriding 357zoos 53
445IN
DEX -
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MA
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AM
ULA
LONELY PLANET WILDIN THE
446
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
Airport
Border crossingBART station
BusBoston T station
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro/Muni station
Petrol stationSubway/SkyTrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
CampingHut/Shelter
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
Gate
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book
Map Legend
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Gregor ClarkVermont Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curi-osity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of countries on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas. Gregor earned his degree in Romance
Languages at Stanford University and has remained an avid linguist throughout careers in publish-ing, teaching, translation and tour leadership. Gregor also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand New England and Survival Guide chapters.
Adam KarlinMaine Adam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks, covering an alphabetical spread that ranges from the Andaman Islands to the Zimbabwe border. As a journalist, he has written on travel, crime, politics, archaeology and the Sri Lankan Civil War, among other topics. He has sent dispatches from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!) and his essays and articles have featured in the BBC, NPR and multiple nonfiction anthologies. Adam is based out of New
Orleans, which helps explain his love of wetlands, food and good music. Learn more at http://walkonfine.com or follow on Instagram @adamwalkonfine.
Brian Kluepfel Connecticut Brian lived in three states and seven different residences by the time he was nine, and just kept moving, making stops in Berkeley, Bolivia, the Bronx and the ’burbs further down the line. His journalistic work across the Americas has ranged from the Copa America soccer tournament in Paraguay to an accor-dion festival in Quebec. His titles for Lonely Planet include Venezuela, Costa Rica, Belize & Guatemala, Bolivia and Ecuador. He’s an avid birder and musician and
dabbles in both on the road.
Regis St LouisMaine Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with for-eign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the
mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban land-scapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans.
Mara VorheesBoston, Massachusetts Mara writes about food, travel and family fun around the world. Her work has been published by BBC Travel, Boston Globe, Delta Sky, the Vancouver Sun and more. For Lonely Planet, she regularly writes about destina-tions in Central America and Eastern Europe, as well as New England, where she lives. She often travels with her twin boys in tow, earning her expertise in family travel. Follow their adventures and misadventures at www.havetwinswilltravel.com.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541539th edition – Dec 2019ISBN 978 1 78701 353 7© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSBenedict WalkerRhode Island Born in Newcastle, Australia, Ben holds notions of the beach core to his idea of self, though he’s traveled thousands of miles from the sandy shores of home to live in Leipzig, Germany. Ben was given his first Lonely Planet guide when he was 12. Two decades later, he’d write chapters for the same publication: a dream come true. A communications graduate and travel agent by trade, Ben whittled away his twenties gallivanting around the globe. He
thinks the best thing about travel isn’t as much where you go as who you meet: living vicariously through the stories of kind strangers enriches one’s own experience. Come along for the ride on Instagram @wordsandjourneys.
Isabel AlbistonMassachusetts After six years working for the Daily Telegraph in London, Isabel left to spend more time on the road. A job as a writer for a magazine in Sydney, Australia, was followed by a four-month overland trip across Asia and five years living and working in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Isabel started writing for Lonely Planet in 2014 and has contributed to 12 guidebooks. She’s currently based in Ireland.
Amy C BalfourNew Hampshire Amy practiced law in Virginia before moving to Los Angeles to try to break in as a screenwriter. After a stint as a writer’s assistant on Law & Order, she jumped into freelance writing, focusing on travel, food and the outdoors. She has hiked, biked and paddled across Southern California and the Southwest. Books authored or co-authored include Lonely Planet’s Pocket Los Angeles, Los Angeles & Southern California, Caribbean Islands, California,
California’s Best Trips, USA, USA’s Best Trips and Arizona.
Robert BalkovichMassachusetts Robert was born and raised in Oregon, but has called New York City home for almost a decade. When he was a child and other families were going to theme parks and grandma’s house, he went to Mexico City and toured Eastern Europe by train. He’s now a writer and travel enthusiast seeking expe-riences that are ever so slightly out of the ordinary to report back on. Follow on Instagram @oh_balky.
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