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ST. COLUMBA HERITAGE TRAIL Resource Handbook

Written spring 2017

Walking in the Footsteps of Pilgrims

The Churches’ Trust – St. Columba Heritage Trail Handbook 2017

TABLE OF CONTENTS PREFACE ............................................................................................................................................ 1

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ....................................................................................................................... 2

LEADING TOURS ON THE TRAIL .......................................................................................................... 3

OUTLINE OF TRAIL ROUTE ................................................................................................................. 4

DESCRIPTION OF TRAIL ROUTE .......................................................................................................... 5

WHO ARE THE CHURCHES’ TRUST? .................................................................................................... 6

CONTEXT OF THE TRAIL ..................................................................................................................... 7

THE STORY OF ST. COLUMBA ............................................................................................................. 8

TIMELINE OF ST. COLUMBA’S LIFE ................................................................................................... 15

PROFILES OF TRAIL SITES ................................................................................................................. 16

ST. BRECAN’S CHURCH ................................................................................................................. 17

FIRST DERRY PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH .......................................................................................... 18

ST. AUGUSTINE’S CHURCH ........................................................................................................... 20

LONG TOWER CHURCH ................................................................................................................ 21

CARLISLE ROAD METHODIST CHURCH .......................................................................................... 22

OTHER SITES OF INTEREST ............................................................................................................... 24

ST. COLUMB’S CATHEDRAL .......................................................................................................... 25

ST. COLUMB’S PARK HOUSE ......................................................................................................... 26

PEACE BRIDGE ............................................................................................................................. 26

THE CITY WALLS ........................................................................................................................... 27

ST. COLUMB’S WELL .................................................................................................................... 27

ÁRAS CHOLMCILLE ....................................................................................................................... 28

FURTHER RESOURCES ...................................................................................................................... 29


© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 1 of 29

PREFACE Welcome to the St. Columba Heritage Trail Resource Handbook. Within this handbook,

you will learn about St. Columba, the Heritage Trail commissioned by The Churches’ Trust,

and many stories of Derry~Londonderry, Ireland and the Christian traditions that have shaped

the spiritual landscape of this island for centuries. As you read it and learn about the

characters, the facts, and stories, allow the history to stir your imagination of the Derry that

once was, connecting in turn to the Derry~Londonderry of today and how it came to be.

Whilst it is important for you as a tour guide to know and understand the contents of

this handbook, you need not memorise it word for word. Focus your attention upon the

information that you connect to most. This will ensure that you explore the trail and lead tours

with passion and genuine interest. Enjoy the process of sharing information you personally

find exciting or inspiring, confusing, or even troubling.

This handbook is a resource of information collated for the reference of tour guides and

The Churches’ Trust for projects imparting the shared Christian heritage of the city. Whilst

this handbook holds a vast array of information that is relevant at any time, it is a working

document that can and should be added to and adapted for different audiences.

I hope you enjoy learning about this city and forming a picture of the ancient Oak

Grove which became the Maiden City, Stroke City and now LegenDerry.

Happy reading,

Kirsty McLaren

~Intern at the Churches’ Trust



ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Sincerest gratitude to all those involved in the creation of the St. Columba Heritage Trail

and the production of this resource handbook.

This handbook was written by Kirsty McLaren whilst interning with The Churches’ Trust.

Affiliated with INCORE and Ulster University, Kirsty studied Democracy and Social Change in

Northern Ireland on a HECUA study abroad programme. Studying peacebuilding and

reconciliation, the programme involved interning with the charity as a way of learning about

rebuilding trust in a deeply divided society.

Project Partners St. Augustine’s Church

St. Brecan’s Church

Carlisle Road Methodist Church

First Derry Presbyterian Church

Long Tower Church

Áras Cholmcille

St. Columb’s Park House

Local Sources

Martin Agnew

Ian Bartlett

Tommy Carlin

Audrey Doak

Ivor Doherty

Martin McCrossan Walking Tours

The Funders

Department for Social Development

Ilex

Arts Council

Derry City and Strabane District

Council

Good Relations

Project Coordinators

The Churches’ Trust

The Design Team

Keys & Monaghan Architects

Eleanor Wheeler – Artist

Niall Bruton – Artist

Brian Lacey – Historian



LEADING TOURS ON THE TRAIL Logistics of the Route and Your Commitment as Guide

Your role as guide requires many skills. Excellent tour guides are described as friendly,

punctual, knowledgeable, engaging, observant and flexible. Consider tours you have

participated in. What made the difference between a memorable tour and one that didn’t

impress you? Use your own experiences as a tourist and listener to educate how you guide

others in order to create a tour that participants will enjoy and learn from.

When leading a tour, it is important to remember some practical points to ensure every

individual can participate safely. The trail covers over 2 miles, crossing busy roads, navigating

the city walls and scaling small hills or steps at different locations. As guide, it is your

responsibility to ensure every person in the group can participate. There are accessibility

restrictions at some points of the trail which can be avoided using sloping walkways and

adapting the route, enabling everyone to participate. Ensure that you guide the whole group

through those changes, not singling out any individuals. For example, if an individual cannot

climb the stairs onto the walls, direct the whole group to the sloping walkway. Inform your

group at the beginning of the tour that comfort breaks can be incorporated on request. There

are several points on the trail where toilets can be used and seating and refreshments could

also be integrated if needed. If the group has an organiser/leader, discuss such options before

the tour to plan ahead.

At the beginning of the tour, welcome the group and introduce yourself. Be sure to ask

if everyone can hear you clearly. It is paramount that you project your voice so that all

participants can engage in the tour. Inform the group of the features of your guided walk along

the trail and be sure to warn the group of crossing roads. Ask the group where they come from

and how they heard about the trail. Forming a rapport with the group can have a significant

impact on their engagement in the information you share.

As storyteller and guide, you commit to share the stories you have been entrusted with

in an accurate and sensitive manner. It is your commitment to share correct information and

lead the group with integrity. Invite the group to ask questions, but when you do not know the

answer to a question, be honest. Encourage the group to learn more and find answers from

trusted sources. (See section with further reading) All the information you share must be

based upon the factual information. When faced with corrections or challenges from

participants, ensure that you are sensitive and respectful of different views. Any biases you

may hold must be abandoned during the course of your work as a tour guide. Disagreements

in historical accounts are common among scholars so do not fear a conflicting account of the

story you have shared. Again, encourage further research whilst assuring the group that you

share accounts from reliable sources. Finally, enjoy sharing the story of Derry~Londonderry

and St. Columba. You have the opportunity to teach groups about a place and person who have

had very important roles in the history of Ireland.



OUTLINE OF TRAIL ROUTE

St. Columb's Park House

St. Brecan's Church

St. Columba Statue

Peace Bridge

City WallsFirst Derry

Presbyterian Church

St. Augustine's Church

St. Columb's Cathedral

St. Columb's Well

Long Tower Church

Hands Across the Divide Monument

Carlisle Road Methodist

Church



DESCRIPTION OF TRAIL ROUTE Instructions for Guiding Groups along the Trail Route

Starting the Tour - Meet the tour group either in St. Columb’s Park House (access to

toilets and café) or in front of the statue of St. Columba.

St. Brecan’s Church - If the group is able and the ground dry, walk up to St. Brecan’s

Church to look closer at the ruin. On the way back down the hill, point out the trail

artwork. Walk up to the statue of Columba before leaving the park.

Walk to the Peace Bridge - Walk from St. Columb’s Park along the drive or across the

grassy area (If dry) towards Ebrington Square. Walking down St. Columb’s Road, take

a left and walk to the square. Before walking over the Peace Bridge, stop to show the

trail artwork on the right.

Walk to the Walls - Once over the Foyle River, cross to Guildhall Square and walk

towards Magazine Gate. Walk up Magazine Street and onto the walls.

Walk to First Derry Presbyterian Church - Continue walking up the walls until First

Derry Presbyterian Church. Bring the group closer to look through the gates at the trail

artwork.

Walk to St. Augustine’s Church - From First Derry Presbyterian Church, walk back

onto the walls and up to St. Augustine’s. Here point out the trail artwork, the oldest

dated tombstone and enter the church. (Open during summer months)

Walk to St. Columb’s Cathedral (Optional addition to route) - From St. Augustine’s,

walk along the Grand Parade and either follow the wall around the corner to St.

Columb’s Cathedral or walk to Bishop Street, walking past the Verbal Arts Centre. At

Bishop Street, if avoiding the walls, turn left and take first right onto St. Columb’s

Court, walking into the cathedral grounds.

Walk to Long Tower Church and Áras Cholmcille – Return to Bishop Street and walk

through the gate, following the road straight. Turn right down Longtower Street,

following the road to Long Tower Church. Here, point out the trail artwork, the

Calvary and Bullaun stone, as well as looking inside the church. If open, enter Áras

Cholmcille and encourage the group to explore the exhibition.

Walk to St. Columb’s Well (Optional addition to route) - Head back towards the city

walls from Long Tower, take a left off Bishop’s Street Without onto Nailor Street.

Follow Nailors’ Row to the bottom of the hill and turn right along Leckey Road towards

a row of white houses on the near side of the main road. The well is among these

houses, on the row called St Columb’s Wells.

Walk to Carlisle Road Methodist Church - From Long Tower Church, walk onto

Barrack Street and follow up the hill, crossing the road and continuing straight along

Abercorn Street. Walk down the hill to the round-about where the Hands across the

Divide Monument is located. From here, walk up Carlisle Road to the Methodist Church

on the right. If pre-arranged, take the group inside for a look around.



WHO ARE THE CHURCHES’ TRUST? The Churches’ Trust is an interdenominational organisation established by leaders of

the four dominant Christian churches in Derry~Londonderry over twenty years ago to respond

to deprivation in the area. We support local people in crisis, respecting their dignity at all

times, whilst signposting them to community groups and other agencies to address

circumstances leading to the crisis situation.

Our vision can be split into two separate goals. One is to address deprivation and social

injustice, working with people at the margins of society and the other is to stand together with

a united voice in an area plagued with the legacy of division through the troubles in Northern

Ireland, aiming to create a shared and better future for all. Our aim is to fight against all forms

of deprivation in the community and to ensure a future where nobody feels isolated or alone.

Hence,

STANDING TOGETHER WITH THOSE IN NEED

Our mission is ‘To proactively enhance and support the economic, social and cultural

development of all communities in a Christian way within the North West region.’

Our Goals for the Future:

1. To proactively enhance and support the economic, social and cultural development of all

our communities within the North West region

2. To develop and provide quality services that tackle deprivation and disadvantage focusing

on social inclusion, equality of opportunity, and improving community relations

3. To promote a more united, shared and cohesive society working in collaboration with

churches from various faith traditions, schools and a diverse range of community groups



CONTEXT OF THE TRAIL The St. Columba Heritage Trail was commissioned by the

Churches’ Trust as part of our contribution to the cultural

heritage and life of the city and to celebrate City of Culture.

A sculpture of the Saint, by artist Niall Bruton, is

located in St. Columb’s Park at the start of the trail. He is

depicted releasing a dove, the symbol of peace, which has

been adopted as the trail’s logo.

The St. Columba Heritage Trail embodies the essence of

The Churches’ Trust, enabling us to articulate key messages from

our Christian forefathers, to celebrate a common Christian Heritage, and to provide this city

with an opportunity for reflection and healing – a symbolic linking of this divided city.

‘The St. Columba Heritage Trail Links the past with the present and provides an opportunity to

reflect and heal the division and hurt in our community. Embark on an educational and historic

journey through a new chapter in our city’s history.’

Board of Directors, Churches’ Trust

Project Aims and Objectives

The City of Derry~Londonderry has a rich Christian Heritage with Saint Columba

recognised as patron Saint of the City. This unifying figure and the surrounding rich heritage

brings our communities together through the symbolic linking of East and West banks via the

Trail. It links the past with the present and provides an opportunity to reflect and heal the

division and hurt in our community. The trail also contributes to good relations in the City,

addresses the shared safe space agenda through cultural animation of the public realm, and

enhances tourism.

Leaving a Legacy

The St. Columba Heritage Trail is highly symbolic as it utilises the Peace Bridge and

part of the walls, believed to be the original pilgrims’ trail into the city. The Trail offers

something unique among the range of guided tours in our City – this is the only one that

focuses on the City’s shared Christian heritage.

The footsteps of reflection and healing signal a new chapter for the citizens of this City as well

as celebrating our shared heritage. The Trail connects the past with the present and articulates

the aspirations for the future.



THE STORY OF ST. COLUMBA Cholmcille – ‘Dove of the Church’



THE STORY OF ST. COLUMBA Cholmcille - The Dove of the Church

Holy-man, explorer, miracle-worker,

politician, liberator, artist, poet – Saint Columba (Latin) also known as Cholmcille (Gaelic) has been

called many things, and has been written about by many different people from all over the world due

to the widespread influence and legacy of his life. Here in Derry~Londonderry, he is claimed as the

patron saint and founder of the city, but his life had a far-reaching influence beyond the maiden city.

The Historical Figure:

There is more evidence of the life of St. Columba than St. Patrick, patron saint of Ireland, yet the historical figure of Columba is difficult to authenticate. The many different

written accounts of Columba’s life have resulted in many interpretations and portrayals of who Columba was and what he did. One single empirical account of his life cannot be gained from

the many sources of history. In the centuries that have elapsed since his death on the 9th of June, 597 C.E., Columba’s story has become confused, with fact and fiction written side by side.

Myths and legends about Columba are woven amongst the provable realities of his life.

Despite the confused history and contradicting

accounts of St. Columba, his life offers many interesting stories and inspiring lessons for the contemporary

individual to learn from. This account of Columba offers a collection of some of the most significant and influential

events in his life and in the context of his time-period in Ireland and the world.

Early Life:

St. Columba was born in Gartan, Donegal, in 520

or 521 C.E. He was born of aristocratic blood, as his father, Fedelmid, and mother, Eithne, were both born of families with power and influence. His mother was a princess of Leinster, and his

father was of the clan of Gartan, a reigning family of Ireland and the kingdom of Dalriada (what is now western Scotland).

Cholmcille was actually baptised Crimthann (translated as fox, possibly due to the

colour of his hair) at Temple Douglas, but was later given the name Cholmcille (dove of the church) due to his devotion to prayer and attending the church from a young age. Over time,

he has often been referred to as Columba, which also means ‘dove of the church’ in Latin. Today, many churches and schools are named after the saint, giving him fame via his Latin

name.

Connections with St.

Patrick:

Columba’s grandfather Connall is

said to have been baptised by St.

Patrick. Born approximately 30

years after St. Patrick had died,

Columba lived in the legacy of

another man of God whose actions

would shape Columba’s own

ministry in Ireland and beyond.



Monastic Student Years:

It was customary in Ireland during the 6th century that noble families would place their first son into education in the church, where he would be trained and educated in scripture

and other important writings. Therefore, Columba entered training in several influential monasteries, living in monastic communities under the training of historically notable Saints.

His first place of learning was the monastic

school of Movilla (Newtownards) where he arrived once he had advanced sufficiently in his letters.

There he studied under the bishop St. Finnian who had travelled on the continent and in Italy.

After becoming a deacon, Columba moved on from Movilla and went to learn from an aged

bard named Gemman in Leinster. Gemman taught

him of the Druid class of the Bardi, or Poets, and Columba learned of the poetic traditions of Ireland

and developed his own love for writing and poetry. Columba always possessed a love of the poetic traditions of his homeland.

Saying farewell to Gemman, Columba joined the influential monastery of Clonard (Co. Meath), the

most celebrated of Irish monastic schools, where he learned from another Finnian, a learned scholar who

had studied under prominent saints in Wales. Here Columba was eventually ordained a monk and priest.

Columba journeyed to Glasnevin to finish his

studies at St. Mobhi’s school, however his education abruptly ended due to an outbreak of the Yellow

Plague. This fierce disease had caused many deaths in other parts of Europe during 543-4 C.E. It is

thought that the Yellow Plague was the same disease that would cause a third of Europe’s population to

die in the Late Middle ages, a calamity famously named the Black Death. Columba fled north to

escape from the disease and upon crossing the Bior (Moyola River), Columba prayed that the water

would mark the northernmost limit of the outbreak, preventing further deaths and the risk to his

homeland.

The Psalter:

On returning from Rome, St.

Finnian had brought back a prized

Latin Psalter. This precious

manuscript would become a source

of contention and conflict between

Columba and Finnian later in life,

after his time at Movilla.



The Founding of Derry:

Columba established the first of his monasteries along the river Foyle where the city

of Derry is now located. He was granted land by a provincial king who had named the site Daire

Calgaich (Oak Wood of Calgaich). Columba had great respect for the oaks that covered his new

settlement and chose to build his monastery in a natural clearing at the top of the island to avoid cutting any down. Possibly due to instruction

from Gemman, Columba knew of the ancient holiness of the oaks which were sacred to the pagan religions of the land. In early Celtic Christianity, respect for nature and the traditions of

one’s surroundings was very important.

Columba protected the oaks diligently. On one occasion, when the grove caught fire, Columba

knelt in prayer, petitioning for God to save the trees. The fire was put out and it is still a myth in the city

that Derry will never burn down and that no one in the city will ever be killed by lightening.

Doire (‘The place of the oak’ or the ‘oak

grove’) was believed to always be Columba’s favourite settlement, even declaring on his death bed

in Iona, “I leave my soul to Derry”.

The Quarrel at Movilla: Whilst remembered as a holy and god-fearing man, St. Columba was involved in some

serious conflicts. The most notable and serious of these was caused by a copyright scandal!

During his time with St. Finnian at Movilla, he secretly copied the saint’s valuable Psalter. This

long and arduous process of writing out the Psalter in the monastery scriptorium was

discovered by Finnian who demanded that Columba grant him the copy. The Psalter was his,

so should the copy be, he argued. Columba stubbornly withheld it. The disagreement resulted

in the involvement of The King of Ireland, Dairmiad mac

Cearuill, the High King of Erin. St Finnian appealed to the

king to make a judgement on who the copy should belong

to. The king judged in favour of Finnian, decreeing what is

said to be the first ever law of copyright, “To every cow her

calf, and every book its copy.”

Angered by the king’s ruling, Columba gained the

support of his own people in Tir Conaill (Co. Donegal) who

came to fight against the king’s forces in The Battle of Cuil

The Cathach: St. Columba’s copy of St.

Finnian’s Psalter was enclosed

in the Cathach (Battle-book)

to enshrine the manuscript.

The O’Donnell clan carried

the book into battle for over

one thousand years to bring

victory to their people.

The Island of Derry:

Derry was once an island in the Foyle due

to the higher waters of the river. What is

now called The Bogside was once actually

a bog where the waters had receded and

the land was slowly reclaimed.



Dreimne. (Co. Sligo) The king was mightily defeated by

Columba, yet the consequences of the battle were severe

and long lasting. Not only did many fighters die,

Columba would have to face personal consequences that

would shape the rest of his life.

The Synod of Teltown: After the king’s defeat, he called the Synod of

Teltown, attempting to excommunicate Columba. The

consequence for killing an opponent’s men in battle was

that each person killed equalled the payment of ten

cows, the currency of wealth at the time. Estimates of

the death-count at the battle range from 400 to 3,000, placing Columba in deep debt with the

king. However, Columba never made the payment for those killed in the four day battle.

Ultimately, instead of complete excommunication,

Columba was exiled from Ireland. Accounts differ as to

whether he was exiled by the Synod, by his friend St.

Molaise of Inismurray (Co. Sligo) or if Columba’s own

conscience forced him to leave his beloved home.

Whichever cause, Columba left Ireland, pledging to

never set foot in his homeland again. Taking with him

twelve disciples, St. Columba set sail in a currach and

determined to win as many souls for Christ as had been

murdered in battle.

Despite pledging (or being sentenced) to never return to

Ireland, many years later, Columba did return for the

convention of Druim Cett. (Co. Londonderry)

Exile to Scotland:

On leaving his beloved home in

563 C.E., Columba headed to Dalriada,

the Irish kingdom in Scotland. The

King of Dalriada granted Cholmcille

protection and permission to settle in

his land, giving him a small island to

the far West of his kingdom called Hy.

The island later became known as

Iona, or the holy island.

Arriving on the island,

Columba ensured no view of Ireland

could be gained and then began to

Columba’s Miracles:

The blessing of the sign of the cross was used very

frequently by Columba to perform miracles and expel

evil forces. In his monastery, all the pails used to carry

milk were first blessed to be rid of the devils inside

before milk was poured inside. On one occasion, a boy

was bringing a pail of milk to Columba and as the saint

blessed it, the pail tipped over and the milk poured over

the ground. Columba gently reprimanded the boy,

proclaiming that the devil had not been forced out before

the milk had been poured in, and so the blessing of

Columba had forced the milk out as the devil had

escaped. By blessing the now empty pail once more,

miraculously, the milk was gathered back into the pail!



build his new settlement on Iona. Columba and his twelve fellow monks established a

monastery on the island and began to live self-sufficient lifestyles through farming. Alongside

praying alone and as a community several times a day, the monks were busied maintaining the

land and copying manuscripts in the scriptorium, writing with quill and velum (a calf skin

stretched and scraped for use as a page for writing). It is believed that the famous Book of

Kells, now located in Dublin’s Trinity College, was started by monks on Iona and then finished

in Kells at a later date.

Columba carried the message of Christ across ethnic, cultural, religious and political

divides. He brought unification between enemy peoples through the church. Columba was a

charismatic character who drew people to himself through his leadership as well as his holy

life. Many people travelled to Iona to become a part of the community or to receive blessings

and advice from Columba. He gained political influence as rulers sought his advice.

All the while his monastery grew in number and influence on Iona, Columba thought of

Pictland. Outside the lands of Dalriada was a dark, ominous land where the Picts ruled, a

barbaric and pagan people. They remained in the Iron Age and had never been conquered by

the Romans. Hadrian’s Wall had been built by

the Romans to protect Britannia from the

Picts. The illiterate people used pictorial

images to communicate and share their

stories and were notoriously hostile towards

other peoples.

Columba broke through the hostility

of the Picts using the remarkable power of

miracles. They could not deny the blatant

power of Columba’s God. Attempting to reach

more of the people, Columba travelled to the King of the Picts, but the doors were barred

Columba’s Miracles:

The first ever story told of the famous Loch Ness Monster

was written by Adamnan in his account of St. Columba’s

life. Whilst travelling the perilous 100 mile journey by boat

from Iona to Inverness in order to speak to the pagan King

of the Picts, King Bridei, some locals complained to

Columba about a monster in the river. He ordered one of

his men into the water and the monster appeared, ready to

attack. Immediately, Columba made the sign of the cross

and ordered the beast away and it retreated into the loch.

The Pict people were amazed at the power of the Christian

God demonstrated by Columba. This and many other

miracles performed by the saint were instrumental in

convincing the pagan people of the power of this other god.

Columba and Human Rights:

Like St. Patrick, Columba was adamantly

opposed to slavery. He fought for the oppressed

to be treated with equality and respect.

Columba has also been seen as an early figure

who fought for the rights of women. Columba’s

respect for women was not standard in other

cultures, such as in the Roman world.



against him. Making the sign of the

cross, he opened them to enter into the

king’s stronghold. He claimed that his

King was more powerful than the king

of the Picts. This sign of power

impressed the Pict King and gave him

no choice but to respect Columba and

his God, even if he would not convert.

Picts began to convert on mass and

evidence of the transitioning of their

identity and beliefs is seen on the

standing stones and other pictorial images they created during the time.

Final Years:

In his later life, Columba was said to have become more deeply connected to God and

the spiritual realm than ever before, filled with love and radiating holy light. Reaching the end,

he saw visions of angels beckoning him to heaven. It is said that as Columba was approaching

death, his white horse, who had carried him faithfully for many years, came to lay his head on

Columba’s lap, shedding tears for his kind master. The saint breathed his last lying at the altar

in his monastery on Iona, surrendering his soul to heaven as he blessed the monks who

surrounded him. Columba’s life ended on the 9th of June,

597 C.E. but his mission continued and his legacy lives

on.

Columba’s Legacy:

Columba is famous as the saint who brought

Christianity to the whole of Scotland, reaching peoples

who had never before heard the gospel message. Those

who claim Columba as the patron saint of Derry give

little mention to the influence Columba had beyond the

shores of Ireland, yet some of his most important and

influential work is argued to be his achievements in

Scotland. Iona is still a central and significant location of

Christian tradition and of pilgrimage today. The life of

Columba has had many and various influences on the

religious, political and cultural landscapes of Ireland and

the wider world. Many centuries on, we can learn much

from his life as we move forward from sectarian division

into recognition of our shared story and heritage.

Columba and Kings:

There are many connections that can be made

between Columba and the broader history of the

United Kingdom. It is said that he revolutionised

the concept of kingship in his time, as now, the

people looked to the church for the establishment of

their rulers. Christianity and monarchical rule

would become linked through Columba, a legacy we

still see today in the Monarchy of Great Britain.


521 C.E. Born

in Gartan,

County

Donegal

Student of

Gemman in

Leinster

Movilla under

Bishop Finnian

Joined Monastery of

Clonard under Finnian

St. Mobhi’s

School and the

Yellow Plague

Granted Land for

First Monastery

546 C.E.

Founding of

Doire/Derry

Quarrel

between

Finnian and

Columba

Battle of Cuil

Dreimne

The Synod of

Teltown

563 C.E. Columba’s

Excommunication

Journey to

Iona

Establishment of

Iona Monastery

Conversion of

the Picts

597 C.E.

Death on

Iona

TIMELINE OF ST. COLUMBA’S LIFE


PROFILES OF TRAIL SITES Information about Each Site of the Trail


ST. BRECAN’S CHURCH St. Columb’s Park

The first stop on the trail is the ancient ruin

of St. Brecan’s Church. The original church was

destroyed by Normans in 1197, then rebuilt by

Redmond O’ Gallagher, Bishop of Derry, in 1585.

Whilst commonly known as St. Brecan’s, it is still a

matter of dispute as to whether the church is

associated with St. Brecan or St. Columba. It is

thought that St. Brecan was influenced by St.

Columba, following his example as he established

further monasteries. There may have been a link

between the two saints but no connection has been proven.

The monastery of St. Brecan, like other monasteries, would have been a small plot

surrounded by a wooden stockade. A second stockade would be built for animals outside of the

monks’ living spaces. Though the monks separated themselves from the wider world, they had

to maintain some ties for their survival. They depended upon local people to bring resources of

food and other essentials to their communities.

St. Brecan’s is located in St. Columb’s Park, a public park which was once the private

grounds of a plantation house, built in the 17th Century. The land was bought in 1845 and

converted into a public space by the Londonderry Corporation. Today the park and house are

community facilities. St. Columb’s Park House is now an activity, conference and reconciliation

centre, working to rebuild connections in a divided society.

Monk and Fisherman:

St. Brecan originated from Rathlin

Island and came to Derry when he

was appointed to source fish for the

local people. It is said that when he

started to fish, he walked to the edge

of the River Foyle, threw out his nets,

and c aught two-hundred salmon!



FIRST DERRY PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH Upper Magazine Street

Presbyterianism came to

Derry in the early 1600s after the

Flight of the Earls and the arrival of

settlers from Scotland. First Derry is

the only Presbyterian Church inside

the city walls. It was originally built in

1690 when Queen Mary gave a

substantial gift to thank the

Presbyterians in the city for their part

in defending Derry during the siege of

1689. The current building dates from

1780, but the congregation is believed

to have been worshipping since 1640,

named the Congregation of First

Derry. Behind the church today is the

Blue Coat School Visitor Centre which

tells the story of Presbyterians in the

city of Derry.

Today, the building is open to visitors as well as worshippers after being closed for

many years for an extensive refurbishment project. Dry rot was discovered in the roof and

evidence of the conflict in Derry was plain to see on the building. During the troubles, the

church, a Protestant building on the edge of the predominantly Catholic Bogside, was easily

targeted by vandals. The money provided to renovate the church depended upon the approval

Contentious Symbols:

Inside First Derry Presbyterian Church, there are

many stained glass windows which have come from

different Presbyterian churches from around the

region. One window in particular has been a source

of contention. The image of Christ in the window

has many similarities to the icons of Christ in the

Catholic tradition. These similarities have caused

people to question the window’s place in the

church, wondering why a Catholic image would

have any place in a Protestant church. This

controversy about the symbol of Christ reveals how

important yet divisive symbols can become when

claimed by one tradition or another. The story of

Saint Columba is a rare symbol in the Christian

heritage of Derry and Ireland as Columba has been

shared by both Protestant and Catholic traditions,

even gaining the position of patron saint of Derry,

claimed by the non-religious as well.



of Sinn Fein leader Martin McGuinness, from the

Bogside. When the deputy first minister entered

the church with Rev. David Latimer, they made a

cup of coffee and inspected the severe damage.

Seeing the poor state of the church, Martin

McGuinness signed the release of 1.5 million in

funds for refurbishments, declaring that he had

never had a cup of coffee that cost him so much

money. The church reopened in 2011 fully

restored.

Spiritual Roots:

When the Presbyterian Scots settled in

Derry, they were returning to the first

settlement of their spiritual forefather, St.

Columba, who brought the Gospel to

Scotland when he was exiled to Iona.

Recognising this shared heritage between

the natives of Derry and the settlers from

Scotland provides a connection between

divided communities.



ST. AUGUSTINE’S CHURCH Palace Street

Known locally as the ‘Wee Church on

the Walls’, St. Augustine’s Church claims to be

located on the site of St. Columba’s original

settlement from 546 C.E.

Located on one of the highest points in

Derry, it is said that Columba built his first

monastery on a site which could be defended,

with a view up the Foyle River. Columba built

in a natural clearing in the oak grove to avoid

destroying any of the trees. This could explain the unconventional positioning of the church.

Normally, Anglican churches face East to West, but St. Augustine’s faces NE to SW due to the

shape of the original clearing Columba found.

After the construction of Temple Mor (Long Tower), in 1164 C.E., the ancient church

became known as the Dubh Regles (The Black Church). Later, the church was destroyed by Sir

Henry Docwra and the stones were used for building the city walls. One remaining stone lies

within the finishing stone of St. Columb’s Cathedral. The current church was built in 1872,

consecrated by Bishop William Alexander (husband of famous hymn writer, Frances Cecil

Alexander).

The small and beautiful site of St. Augustine’s features several pieces of Trail artwork

which integrate elements of the architecture of the church, as well as symbols of the era it was

built, the oak leaf and the dove.

Gravestones:

The oldest dated gravestone in the

Church’s cemetery (1604) can be seen on

the right side of the church, leaning

against the wall. It is a darker shade

than the other standing gravestones and

a carven image of a skull and crossbones

can be seen on its face. Many famous

graves are located in this graveyard.



LONG TOWER CHURCH 18 Pump Street

Long Tower Church preserves a strong respect for St. Columba as its spiritual father,

claiming status as the site of both the Teampall Mor (Great Church) and the ancient Dubh

Regles (Black Church). As previously mentioned, St. Augustine’s is often considered to be the

official site of Columba’s ancient monastery, however there is contention over this claim,

because categorical proof has not been found for either St. Augustine’s or Long Tower as

Columba’s original settlement. The claim holds deep meaning for both churches and is a

source of sensitivity between the Anglican and Catholic traditions on the two sites, as

surrendering their claim would be to concede their connection to an important heritage which

both communities draw from.

Despite the contention, whether Long Tower or

St. Augustine’s is proved to be the ancient site or not,

they both serve as significant monuments to the life of a

very important figure in the history of Derry.

Long Tower Church was built in 1783, a far

smaller structure than the present church, standing as a

single rectangular shape, as opposed to the cross-like

structure of today.

Before the church was built, Father John Lynch

said mass near a hawthorn tree which marked the site of the Teampall Mor (Great Church) of

the 12th century. Celebrating mass outside under hawthorn trees was common during the 18th

century, because the penal laws in Ireland prevented Catholics from practicing their faith in

many public spaces. Towards the end of the century however, these penal laws relaxed under

the influence of the liberal views of the Protestant Bishop of Derry, Frederick Augustus Hervey,

Earl of Bristol. Sensing that the political climate would be favourable to his venture, Father

Lynch began raising funds to build a church. Funds flowed in from the Corporation and from

Bishop Hervey himself, and

the building commenced. In

1810, enlargements of Long

Tower were led by Charles

O’Donnell, Dean of the

Diocese, and since then, more

additions and improvements

have been made to the

beautiful building.

Trail Artwork:

Within the Long Tower Church

grounds, there is a series of seven

ceramic reliefs which depict

stories from St. Columba’s life.

Local primary school children

were involved in the process of

designing artwork for the Trail,

basing their ideas on themes of

friendship and peace.



CARLISLE ROAD METHODIST CHURCH Carlisle Road

Though Carlisle Road Methodist Church is

not located on the pilgrim’s trail as the other three churches are, the Methodist church is another vital

part of Derry’s shared Christian heritage. Methodism is another piece of the story of faith

that has shaped the spiritual landscape of Derry and wider Ireland.

John Wesley, the co-founder of Methodism,

journeyed to Derry on four separate occasions, initially in 1765, staying on Magazine Street.

Methodism had already been established in Derry by Thomas Williams when Wesley arrived, yet

before the conversion of an eminent citizen of Derry, Alexander Knox, the congregation was small and poor. Wesley, on visits to the Methodist community in Derry, noted the cold and

small Society. However, over time, the small number grew to become one of the four dominant church denominations in Ireland.

The church changed locations throughout its history in Derry, located on Magazine

Street, Linenhall Street, on East Wall, and finally on Carlisle Road. The foundation stone of Carlisle Road was laid on the 6th of August 1901 by the Duchess of Abercorn and opened in May

1903 as what was named the ‘most beautiful church in Irish Methodism’.

Since that time, the church has faced many struggles as the demographic of the city

changed during the troubles, when many Protestant families left the City-side to live on the Waterside or surrounding towns. Many Protestant churches closed in Derry during the

conflicts but Carlisle Road remained. Withstanding the risks of the violence in Derry during the 1970s, the church congregation endured at Carlisle Road but shrank considerably as families

left for their own safety. In the dark times of conflict, the church not only fought to endure as a

congregation, it also reached out to rebuild trust in the community. There was one particular occasion of serious gunfire

which prompted Rev. George Morrison and the

leaders of three other local churches to make a gesture

of peace that transcended religious divides. Journeying

into the Bogside and the Fountain, they offered

comfort and pleaded for an end to violence and conflict.

The church has

played a significant role in

Riders Carrying Christ:

Wesley is said to have travelled many miles on horseback in Ireland

carrying his message of justification through faith. St. Columba also carried out much of his work by

travelling on the back of his trusted white steed. The two men

demonstrated much strength as

missionaries who purposed to bring a message of hope and love to the lost.



maintaining the presence of the Methodist church in Derry, refusing to give up during the

darkest period of religious and political division.

Methodism was characterised as a movement which spoke up for the rights of ordinary

people and preached the gospel in a comprehensible way to people who felt alienated and marginalised by the church. For many years, Carlisle Road has been working to offer aid to the

homeless through the Methodist City Mission, and provided food for over 5,000 armed service personnel weekly during the Second World War. Since its establishment, the church has

embodied the mission of being friends of all, enemies of none.



OTHER SITES OF INTEREST Local History and Important Locations



ST. COLUMB’S CATHEDRAL London Street

Built in 1633 by order of The

Honourable The Irish Society, St. Columb’s

Cathedral was the first Protestant

Cathedral in the British Isles built after the

Reformation and is Derry’s oldest

surviving building.

The site has no direct link with St.

Columba but as a Church of Ireland

Cathedral, it is linked with nearby St.

Augustine’s Church, the claimed site of

Columba’s first settlement and monastery.

Inside St. Columb’s, the finishing

stone, crediting the work of the London

merchants, encases a smaller stone from the 12th century, which originated from the site upon

which St. Augustine is built. This is claimed to have been a part of the Black Church which was

built on that site.

The cathedral interior possesses several ornate homages to its namesake, St. Columba.

His carven figure stands in the front panel of the pulpit, his face is illustrated in a mosaic at the

back of the altar, and one stained glass

window tells the story of St. Columba

in three scenes depicting significant

moments in his life.

St. Columb’s has worked to

bring healing to the deep cuts of

division in Derry, a legacy of the

troubles which began in the city nearly

five decades ago. In recent history, the

cathedral has played an important part

in uniting Derry, acting as a shared

space where people of all backgrounds

are welcomed. Engaging in

transformative cross-community

dialogue, St. Columb’s has reached out

the hand of peace to rebuild

relationships between local churches

and communities.

Names have Meaning:

Why would the London guilds name the cathedral after an

Irish saint? Honouring a name of importance to the

London merchants, such as St. George (patron saint of

England), would be more understandable. It is possible

that they chose Columba as a way to pay tribute to the

traditions of the city and the Irish people who lived there,

however this seems unlikely as they seldom showed

respect to the Irish and their heritage. Another reason

could be that they wanted to appease the natives,

attempting to relieve tensions between peoples to prevent

uprisings or dissent. Whatever the reason, St. Columb’s

has been a site of religious importance in Derry ever since

it was built, and stands tall today, the impressive spire

seen towering above its surroundings.



ST. COLUMB’S PARK HOUSE The Heart in the Park

St Columb’s Park House opened as a peace and reconciliation centre in 1994 offering a shared

space for learning, leadership and peaceful

activism. Their mission is to be the heart of the

park, helping to nurture peaceful, vibrant and

compassionate communities. The house offers

a safe and neutral venue, delivering a range of

outreach projects, conference facilities, a

modern café, and accommodation for group

residentials.

PEACE BRIDGE Connecting the City and Symbolising Unity

Launched June 25th 2011, the Peace Bridge is a project funded by the European Union’s

PEACE III programme, the Shared Space

Initiative. The £14.5 million structure has

quickly become one of the most iconic

images of the city of Derry, connecting the

Waterside to the City-side and changing the

way the city is perceived by tourists and

residents alike. Built and managed by Ilex,

the bridge has been a significant part of

Derry~Londonderry’s regeneration

programme.



THE CITY WALLS The Necklace of the City

In 1613-1618, The Honourable The Irish Society built the famous Derry walls to defend

the city from attack. At 1.5km, the circumference of the walls represents the only remaining

completely walled city in Ireland. Twenty-

four restored cannon are displayed around

the walls, many fired during the sieges of the

17th century. Over the centuries, the walls

have played a key role in shaping the city’s

history, for both good and bad. Today, the

City walls are celebrated by local people and

tourists alike as the necklace that surrounds

the city, instead of the millstone around its

neck, as it was characterised at other periods

of the city’s history.

ST. COLUMB’S WELL Sites of Blessing

It is said that when a child was

brought to Columba for baptism, no water

could be found and the Saint blessed a

nearby stone, causing water to flow from it.

Blessing in the name of the Father, Son and

Holy Spirit, Columba transformed the site

into a place of pilgrimage where people

came to use the water for protection and

healing – particularly for diseases of the

eyes. On Columba’s saint’s day, the 9th of

June, a procession still blesses the well and

prays for protection for those who follow

St. Columba. The pump now located on the

site dates from 1897.



ÁRAS CHOLMCILLE St. Columba Heritage Centre

Located in the grounds of the Long Tower Church, Áras Cholmcille has a similar

purpose to the Trail itself, seeking to share

the heritage of Derry’s founder. They

recognise Columba’s story as a history that

can be shared by all people of Derry,

irrespective of identity, faith, or political

affiliation. The Centre is located in the

restored ‘Wee Nuns’ School’, built in 1813.

It provides a perfect location for people of

all ages to learn about St. Columba and the

story of Derry.



FURTHER RESOURCES As a tour guide, you will come across more and more questions from the individuals

who engage in the trail. This handbook is a starting point for you to begin, to spark your

interest and propel you into further research about St. Columba, the city of Derry, and the broader histories of Ireland, early Celtic Christianity, and the four main churches which are

part of the trail. Use the following resources to begin your deeper reading and learning.

Written Resources

Adamnan, and Reeves, W. (1874). Life of Saint Columba. 1st ed. Edinburgh: Edmonston and

Douglas.

Fawcett, F. (1963). Columba. 1st ed. Londonderry, Northern Ireland: Derry Standard.

Lacey, B. (2013). Saint Columba. 1st ed. Blackrock: Columba Press.

Lacey, B. (2013). Medieval and monastic Derry. 1st ed. Ireland: Four Courts Press Ltd.

Online Resources

http://www.stcolumbaheritagetrail.org/

https://www.discovernorthernireland.com

http://ccea.org.uk/colmcille/index.php

www.colmcille.org/stcolumba/

http://longtowerchurch.org/

http://www.northumbriacommunity.org/articles/monasticism-the-heart-of-celtic-

christianity/

http://www.ulsterheritage.com/history/saint_columba.htm

http://www.askaboutireland.ie/reading-room/digital-book-collection/digital-books-by-

subject/irish-people/smith-the-life-of-st.-col/index.xml

http://www.visitderry.com/Walled-City-Heritage-Trail-A513

http://www.donegaldiaspora.ie/people/colmcille

http://www.stcolumbaheritage.org/

http://www.stcolumbaheritagetrail.org/

https://www.discovernorthernireland.com/

http://ccea.org.uk/colmcille/index.php

http://www.colmcille.org/stcolumba/

http://longtowerchurch.org/

http://www.northumbriacommunity.org/articles/monasticism-the-heart-of-celtic-christianity/

http://www.northumbriacommunity.org/articles/monasticism-the-heart-of-celtic-christianity/

http://www.ulsterheritage.com/history/saint_columba.htm

http://www.askaboutireland.ie/reading-room/digital-book-collection/digital-books-by-subject/irish-people/smith-the-life-of-st.-col/index.xml

http://www.askaboutireland.ie/reading-room/digital-book-collection/digital-books-by-subject/irish-people/smith-the-life-of-st.-col/index.xml

http://www.visitderry.com/Walled-City-Heritage-Trail-A513

http://www.donegaldiaspora.ie/people/colmcille

http://www.stcolumbaheritage.org/

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