new zealand’s south island - lonely planet · 2018-07-26 · new zealand’s south island (te...

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Peter Dragicevich, Brett Atkinson, Andrew Bain, Samantha Forge, Anita Isalska New Zealand’s South Island (Te Waipounamu) Queenstown & Wanaka (p192) The West Coast (p236) Christchurch & Canterbury (p58) Dunedin & Otago (p114) Nelson & Marlborough (p274) Fiordland & Southland (p148) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Page 1: New Zealand’s South Island - Lonely Planet · 2018-07-26 · New Zealand’s South Island (Te Waipounamu) Queenstown & Wanaka (p192) The West Coast (p236) Christchurch & Canterbury

Peter Dragicevich, Brett Atkinson, Andrew Bain, Samantha Forge, Anita Isalska

New Zealand’s South Island (Te Waipounamu)

Queenstown& Wanaka

(p192)

TheWest

Coast(p236) Christchurch

& Canterbury(p58)

Dunedin& Otago

(p114)

Nelson &Marlborough

(p274)

Fiordland &Southland

(p148)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Page 2: New Zealand’s South Island - Lonely Planet · 2018-07-26 · New Zealand’s South Island (Te Waipounamu) Queenstown & Wanaka (p192) The West Coast (p236) Christchurch & Canterbury

Welcome to the South Island . . . . . . . . . 4The South Island’s Top 16 . . . 8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . . .18What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . . 20If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Month by Month . . . . . . . . 24Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Getting Around . . . . . . . . . 32Hiking on the South Island . . . . . . . . . . . 34Skiing & Snowboarding . . .40Surfing, Cycling & Extreme Sports . . . . . . . 45Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . 50Travel with Children . . . . . 53Regions at a Glance . . . . . 55

CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY . . . . . . 59Christchurch . . . . . . . . . . 68Around Christchurch . . . 84Lyttelton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Banks Peninsula . . . . . . . . . 85Akaroa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87North Canterbury . . . . . . 91Lewis Pass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91Hanmer Springs . . . . . . . . . 92Waipara Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 94Central Canterbury . . . . 96Selwyn District . . . . . . . . . . 96Arthur’s Pass . . . . . . . . . . . 97Methven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Mt Somers . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100

South Canterbury . . . . . 100Peel Forest . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Geraldine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Timaru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102Fairlie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Lake Tekapo . . . . . . . . . . . 106Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park . . . . . . . . . . 108Twizel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112

DUNEDIN & OTAGO .114Waitaki District . . . . . . . 120Omarama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Waitaki Valley . . . . . . . . . . 121Oamaru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Moeraki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Dunedin . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Around Dunedin . . . . . . 137Port Chalmers . . . . . . . . . . 137Otago Peninsula . . . . . . . . 138Central Otago . . . . . . . . 142Middlemarch . . . . . . . . . . . 142Ranfurly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Naseby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Lauder, Omakau & Ophir . . . . . . . . 143Alexandra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Clyde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Cromwell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146

FIORDLAND & SOUTHLAND . . . . . . 148The Catlins . . . . . . . . . . 156Kaka Point & Around . . . . 156Owaka & Around . . . . . . . . 157Papatowai & Around . . . . 158Curio Bay & Around . . . . . 160Central Southland . . . . .161Gore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Invercargill . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Bluff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168

PLAN YOUR TRIP

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LUPINS AT LAKE TEKAPO P106

Page 3: New Zealand’s South Island - Lonely Planet · 2018-07-26 · New Zealand’s South Island (Te Waipounamu) Queenstown & Wanaka (p192) The West Coast (p236) Christchurch & Canterbury

Contents

Stewart Island (Rakiura) . . . . . . . . 169Riverton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Te Waewae & Colac Bays . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Tuatapere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Fiordland . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Manapouri . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Doubtful Sound . . . . . . . . 181Te Anau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Milford Highway . . . . . . . . 186Milford Sound . . . . . . . . . . 190

QUEENSTOWN & WANAKA . . . . . . . . . 192Queenstown . . . . . . . . . . 200Around Queenstown . . . 219Glenorchy . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Arrowtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221Wanaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Around Wanaka . . . . . . . 233Cardrona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233Makarora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234

THE WEST COAST . . . 236Westland . . . . . . . . . . . . 242Haast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242Westland Tai Poutini National Park . . . . . . . . . . 243Fox Glacier . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Franz Josef Glacier . . . . . . 247Okarito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252Whataroa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253Ross . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253Hokitika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254Kumara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258Grey District . . . . . . . . . 259Greymouth . . . . . . . . . . . . 259

Lake Brunner . . . . . . . . . . 262Blackball . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262Barrytown & Around . . . . 263Buller Region . . . . . . . . . 264Punakaiki & Paparoa National Park . . . . . . . . . .264Charleston & Around . . . . 265Westport & Around . . . . . 266Karamea & Around . . . . . 268Reefton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270Murchison & Buller Gorge . . . . . . . . . . . 272

NELSON & MARLBOROUGH . . . 274Nelson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Tasman District . . . . . . 288Nelson Lakes National Park . . . . . . . . . . 288Ruby Coast & Moutere Hills . . . . . . . . . . . 289Motueka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290Kaiteriteri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293Marahau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293Abel Tasman National Park . . . . . . . . . .294Takaka Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297Takaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297Pohara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .300Collingwood & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . .300Kahurangi National Park . . . . . . . . . . 301Marlborough District . . 302Marlborough Sounds . . . .303Picton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307Blenheim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311Kaikoura . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316

New Zealand Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326

Environment . . . . . . . . . 336

Māori Culture . . . . . . . . 341

The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348

Directory A-Z . . . . . . . . . 354

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 366

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 382

SPECIAL FEATURESGetting Around . . . . . . . . 32

Hiking on the South Island . . . . . . 34

Surfing, Cycling & Extreme Sports . . . . . . . 45

Bird Spotter’s Guide . . .176

Māori Culture . . . . . . . . 341

UNDERSTAND

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Page 4: New Zealand’s South Island - Lonely Planet · 2018-07-26 · New Zealand’s South Island (Te Waipounamu) Queenstown & Wanaka (p192) The West Coast (p236) Christchurch & Canterbury

Itineraries

R

CatlinsConservation

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Aoraki/Mt Cook

DoubtfulSound

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Picton

Kaikoura

Fox Glacier

Franz JosefGlacier

Dunedin

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Christchurch

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TA S M A NS E A

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Akaroa

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This tour of South Island highlights takes in a remarkable range of landscapes, offering diverse experiences from wine tasting to whale-watching to ice tramping.

Begin in Christchurch, the South Island’s culture capital. Get a caffeine buzz at Supreme Supreme, then stroll through the pedestrian-friendly CBD to Christchurch Art Gallery and Canterbury Museum. Wander along the Avon River in the Botanic Gardens, and tour the city on the historic tram before heading up the Gondola for excellent views.

City-saturated? Take a day trip to pretty Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula, then head north for whale-watching in Kaikoura. Continue through the Marlborough wine region and the harbour town of Picton, before whiling away a day or two in the Marlborough Sounds.

Detour west past artsy Nelson to ecofriendly Golden Bay before heading down the West Coast where Punakaiki and the glaciers – Franz Josef and Fox – are just the tip of the iceberg. Go crazy in adventurous Queenstown, be mesmerised by Doubtful Sound and chill out around the sleepy Catlins. Back up the East Coast, drop in to Scottish- flavoured Dunedin, then detour through the Waitaki Valley to the snowy heights of Ao-raki/Mt Cook and Lake Tekapo, before rolling back into Christchurch.

3 WEEKS

28 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Page 5: New Zealand’s South Island - Lonely Planet · 2018-07-26 · New Zealand’s South Island (Te Waipounamu) Queenstown & Wanaka (p192) The West Coast (p236) Christchurch & Canterbury

Cast adrift from ancient Gondwanaland and uninhabited by humans until around 800 years ago, the South Island boasts a remark-able range of land and sea creatures. Experi-ence this veritable menagerie on this tour.

From Christchurch, travel to Akaroa to swim with Hector’s dolphins, New Zealand’s smallest and rarest. Squeeze in a return trip up the coast to Kaikoura for whale-watch-ing and swimming with NZ fur seals, before travelling south to Oamaru. A wonderful historic precinct and a fascination with steampunk draw visitors, but nature buffs should make a beeline for the little blue pen-guin colony, which comes alive at dusk.

From Oamaru continue south to the Otago Peninsula to spot more little blue penguins, as well as their extremely rare, shuffling cousin, the yellow-eyed penguin (hoiho). Join a tour to meet seals and sea lions before admiring the royal albatross colony on nearby Taiaroa Head. A seaborne journey with Elm Wildlife Tours is another essential Otago Peninsula experience.

Continue to the rugged, Catlins, where penguins, Hector’s dolphins and sea lions are all visitors at Curio Bay. Leave the Is-land at Bluff for kiwi-spotting on wild and idiosyncratic Stewart Island/Rakiura.

10 DAYS Animal Planet

Fruits, vegetables, seafood, dairy, game, grapes, hops – the fertile South Island is paradise for foodies. If you want to tantalise your tastebuds then this is your place.

Hop into gear around Nelson, widely re-garded as the nation’s craft-brewing capital and home to microbreweries such as Hop Federation and Townshend. Head over to Marlborough, NZ’s best wine-touring ter-ritory, then down the South Island’s rugged East Coast to Kaikoura for delicious sea-food at rustic eateries. Graduate to classier dining at the vineyard restaurants of the Waipara Valley – Pegasus Bay and Black Estate are great for leisurely lunches.

Head into Christchurch to sample the restaurants around Victoria and New Re-gent Sts, and Lyttelton, and don’t miss the Christchurch Farmers Market on Saturday mornings. Craft heaven awaits beer buffs at Pomeroy’s Old Brewery Inn and the Brewery.

From Christchurch continue south to North Otago and award-winning eateries such as Riverstone Kitchen in Oamaru and Fleur’s Place in Moeraki. Emerson’s and Speight’s are the breweries to check out further south in Dunedin before loading up the car with locavore goodies from Dun-edin’s Otago Farmers Market.

10 DAYS

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Page 6: New Zealand’s South Island - Lonely Planet · 2018-07-26 · New Zealand’s South Island (Te Waipounamu) Queenstown & Wanaka (p192) The West Coast (p236) Christchurch & Canterbury

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Page 7: New Zealand’s South Island - Lonely Planet · 2018-07-26 · New Zealand’s South Island (Te Waipounamu) Queenstown & Wanaka (p192) The West Coast (p236) Christchurch & Canterbury

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Page 8: New Zealand’s South Island - Lonely Planet · 2018-07-26 · New Zealand’s South Island (Te Waipounamu) Queenstown & Wanaka (p192) The West Coast (p236) Christchurch & Canterbury

373373

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Ivo Thonon, Jim Corum, Andrew Wintle, Angus Mackay, Prue Biddle.

AUTHOR THANKS Brett AtkinsonThanks to all of the i-SITE, DOC and infor-mation centre staff who helped on the road, especially Glenn Ormsby and Mariet van Vierzen in Kaikoura. Cheers to the innova-tive chefs and inspired craft brewers of New Zealand for surprises and sustenance, and to Carol for support on occasional beach, island and city getaways. Thanks to my fellow authors, and my appreciation to Tasmin Waby at Lonely Planet for the opportunity to once again explore my Kiwi backyard.

Andrew BainThanks primarily to Jason and Megan Hopper, who took me to the heights of the mountains and let me take them to the depths of Queen-stown’s basement bars. Gracias to Robyn Co-lumbus Pester for a host of information, and the myriad business operators who answered my many queries along the journey. To my

greatest gifts – Kiri and Cooper – a big thanks for rolling with it as ever as I wandered in and out of NZ and our other life.

Samantha ForgeThank you to the many wonderful Kiwis I met throughout the South Island for giving so freely of your time, knowledge and kindness. Thanks to Karyn, my travelling companion in Central Otago, for the cake and compan-ionship. And finally, huge thanks to the other Team NZ authors for their friendship and generosity, and to everyone at LP responsible for piecing this puzzle together, especially the lovely Tasmin Waby.

Anita IsalskaHuge thanks to Tasmin Waby for bringing me aboard Team NZ, and to my fellow writers for being wonderful to work with – especially the above-and-beyond input from Andrew Bain, Brett Atkinson and Peter Dragicevich. Thanks for helpful suggestions from Nathan Watson and the Mountain Safety Council, patient counsel from numerous i-SITEs, blunt input from Tamara Goodwin, and Jane Atkin’s great wisdom. Thank you Normal Matt, not for accidental acrobatics in Cardrona but for energetic driving, cruising and pub-hopping in Fiordland.

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

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Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Up-dated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: McLean Falls, the Catlins, Tom Mackie/AWL ©

THIS BOOK This 6th edition of Lonely Planet’s New Zealand’s South Island guidebook was curated by Peter Dragicevich, and researched and written by Brett Atkinson, Andrew Bain, Samantha Forge and Anita Isalska. The previous edition was written by Charles Rawlings-Way, Sarah Bennett, Peter Dragicevich and Lee Slater. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Tasmin WabyProduct Editors Joel Cotterell, Kate Chapman, Tracy WhitmeySenior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtBook Designer Michael WeldonAssisting Editors Michelle Bennett, Janice Bird, Andrea Dobbin, Jennifer Hattam, Victoria Harrison, Jodie Martire, Lou McGregor, Kristin

Odijk, Monique Perrin, Simon WilliamsonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Jennifer Carey, Daniel Corbett, Jane Grisman, Liz Heynes, Andi Jones, Anne Mason, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Mazzy Prinsep, Kirsten Rawlings, Jessica Ryan, James Smart, Angela Tinson

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Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAbel Tasman National Park

9, 277, 294-7, 295, 8-9accommodation 354-7, see

also individual locationsadventure activities 22,

45-9, see also individual activities

Abel Tasman National Park 294

Buller Gorge 272Charleston 265-6Cromwell 146Fox Glacier 246Makarora 235Motueka 291Queenstown 205-6, 207Te Anau 183Wanaka 228-9

air travel 33, 366-8airlines 367Akaroa 10, 87-91, 88, 11Alexandra 144-5Alpine Fault Tours 20Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail 112Anatoki Salmon 300animals 337-9Aoraki/Mt Cook National

Park 108-12, 110-11, 5, 66-7

tramping 66-7area codes 19Arrowtown 194, 221-33,

222, 22Arrowtown Gaol 221Arthur’s Pass 97-8Arthur’s Pass National

Park 65-6, 98, 66tramping 65-6

arts 343-7, 348-52ATMs 360Awaroa Bay 298

BBanks Peninsula 10, 62,

85-91, 86, 11tramping 64

Bannockburn 147Barrytown 263bars 23, 51-2bats 338beaches 21

Awaroa Bay 298Caroline Bay Park 102-3Gemstone Beach 175Oreti Beach 166Rabbit Island/

Moturoa 290Scotts Beach 268-9Tahuna Beach 282Tata Beach 300Wharariki Beach 302

beer 23, 51-2, 286bicycle travel, see cyclingbirds 176-9, 337-8, 176-9,

see also kiwis, penguinsbooks 338

birdwatching 176-9Kaikoura 318Kaka Point 156-7Oamaru 122-3, 123, 124Otago 126Punanga Manu o Te

Anau 182Ulva Island 170-1

Blackball 262-3Blenheim 276, 311-16, 312blue penguins 122-3Bluff 168-9boating, see also jetboating

Akaroa 89-90Christchurch 73Milford Sound 190-1Queenstown 206Te Anau 183

boat travel 367, 368books 35, 129, 257, 324, 347

birds 338forests 339

history 332Māori culture 344, 348

breweries 286Cardrona Distillery &

Museum 233Emerson’s Brewery 20,

129-31Hop Federation 292Invercargill Brewery 164-5McCashin’s Brewery 283Monteith’s Brewing

Co 260Park Life Brewery 283Speight’s Brewery 129

Buller Gorge 272-3Buller Region 16, 264-73, 17bungy jumping 45, 202,

205-6, 2bus tours 369bus travel 33, 368-9, 371-2business hours 19, 361

Ccafes 51campervans 370camping 39canoeing & kayaking 49

Abel Tasman National Park 296, 8-9

Akaroa 90Blenheim 312Doubtful Sound 182, 48Franz Josef Glacier 250Kaikoura 317Marlborough Sounds 305Milford Sound 190Nelson 283Okarito 252-3Otago Peninsula 139Tasman Glacier 109Wanaka 228-9

Canterbury 55, 58-113, 60-1accommodation 59climate 59earthquakes 69, 71food 59

highlights 60-1itineraries 62-3tramping 64-7, 64travel seasons 59

Canterbury Earthquake National Memorial 20, 71

Cape Farewell 302Cardrona 233-4, 162car travel 32-3, 369-71

automobile associations 369

driving licences 369hire 33, 370-1insurance 370-1road rules 371

Cascade Creek 187Castle Hill/Kura Tawhiti 97cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCatlins, the 17, 156-61,

157, 17caves

Cathedral Caves 159Cave Stream Scenic

Reserve 97Charleston 265-6Glowworm Dell 254Honeycomb Hill Caves

and Arch 269Ngarua Caves 297Rawhiti Cave 298Te Anau Glowworm

Caves 182-3caving 45-6Charleston 265-6children, travel with 53-4,

77, 210Chinese Settlement

(Arrowtown) 221, 22Christchurch 13, 55, 68-84,

70, 74-5, 12accommodation 59, 77-9activities 73climate 59day trips from 62-3drinking 81-2earthquakes 69, 71

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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IND

EX C-H

Christchurch continuedentertainment 82events 77festivals 77food 20, 59, 79-81highlights 60-1history 68itineraries 62-3medical services 82-3nightlife 81-2 sights 68-72tourist information 83tours 73-7travel seasons 59travel to/from 83travel within 83-4

churches & cathedralsChrist Church

Cathedral 282Church of the Good

Shepherd 106First Church of

Otago 129, 22Knox Church 131Sacred Heart Basilica 104St Joseph’s

Cathedral 129St Mary’s Basilica 165-6St Patrick’s Basilica 123-4St Patrick’s Catholic

Church 89, 221St Paul’s Cathedral 129St Peter’s Anglican

Church 89, 202St Stephen’s Church 101Transitional

Cathedral 72, 58cinema 347Clay Cliffs Paritea 120climate 18, 24-7, 356Clyde 145-6Clyde Historical

Museums 145coffee 51, 136Colac Bay 175Collingwood 300-1Coronet Peak 203, 43, 44Cook, James 328crayfish 322credit cards 360Cromwell 146-7cruises 367

Doubtful Sound 181-2Marlborough

Sounds 305

Milford Sound 182Queenstown 207

Curio Bay 160-1currency 18, 360customs regulations 357cycling 33, 46, 112, 368

Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail 112

Arrowtown 221-3Banks Peninsula 87bicycle hire 368Christchurch 73Clutha Gold Trail 119Great Taste Trail 289Hokitika 256Nelson 283Oamaru 124Otago 118-19, 118Otago Central Rail

Trail 118Queenstown 203-5Roxburgh Gorge Trail 119Ruataniwha

Conservation Park 113Tasman District 289West Coast Wilderness

Trail 256

Ddisabilities, travellers

with 363distilleries, see breweriesdiving & snorkelling 49,

190Doubtful Sound 150, 181-2drinks 51-2Dunedin 55, 128-37, 130,

140accommodation 114,

133-4day trips from 116-17drinking 136food 114, 134-6itineraries 116-17nightlife 136shopping 136sights 128-32tourist information 137travel to/from 137travel within 137

Dunedin Railway Station 128

Eearthquakes 325, 336-7

Canterbury 71Kaikoura 320

economy 324-5Eco World Aquarium 307-8

electricity 357Elephant Rocks 122emergencies 19environmental

issues 339-40events 24-7, see also

individual locationsexchange rates 19extreme sports 22, 45-9

FFairlie 105-6Farewell Spit 302festivals 24-7, see also

individual locationsfilms 324, 349-50Finn, Neil 351Finn, Tim 351Fiordland 56, 148, 180-

91, 149accommodation 148climate 148food 148highlights 149itineraries 150-1travel seasons 148

Fiordland National Park 180-91, 149

First Church of Otago 129, 22

fishing 272, 300Kaikoura 319Stewart Island/

Rakiura 171Florence Hill Lookout 159food 23, 50-2, 50, 52,

see also individual locations

Fortrose Cliffs 160Fox Glacier 15, 244-7,

245, 15Franz Josef Clay Target

Shooting 20Franz Josef Glacier 247-52,

248, 188

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesgardens, see parks & gardensgay travellers 360geology 336-7Geraldine 101-2giardiasis 358Gibbston Valley 216glacier walks

Fox Glacier 245-6Franz Josef Glacier 249-

50, 188

glaciers 247Fox Glacier 15, 244-7,

245, 15Franz Josef

Glacier 247-52, 248, 188

Tasman Glacier 109Glenorchy 194, 219-21glowworms 182-3, 254, 338gondolas

Christchurch 72Queenstown 202, 189

Gore 161-4Great Coast Road 263Great Walks 37-8greenstone 259Grey District 259-63Greymouth 259-62, 260Gunn’s Camp 191

HHaast 242-3Haast Pass Highway 243haka 344-6hang gliding 46Hanmer Springs 92-4, 93Havelock 303health 357-9

insurance 357-8helihiking 250

Fox Glacier 245-6Franz Josef

Glacier 249-50heliskiing 44hiking, see trampinghistoric sites

Arrowtown Gaol 221Chinese

Settlement 221, 22Denniston Plateau 266Maerewhenua Māori

Rock Painting Site 122Mitchells Gully Gold

Mine 265Riccarton House &

Bush 72Takiroa Māori Rock

Painting Site 121history 23, 326-35

European settlement 327-9

gold rush 332Land Wars 332Māori settlement 326-7modern era 335Musket Wars 329-30New Zealand Wars 332Rainbow Warrior 334

hitching 371

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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37 7IN

DEX H

-M

Hokitika 254-8, 255Hokitika Gorge 256holidays 361Hollyford Track 153, 154Hooker Valley Track 67,

2, 67horse riding 46

Cape Farewell 302Cardrona 234Catlins, the 158Lake Tekapo 106-7Marahau 293Peel Forest 101Port Chalmers 138Punakaiki 264Selwyn District 96

hot springsFranz Josef Glacier 250Hanmer Springs 92Omarama Hot Tubs 120Te Waikoropupū

Springs 299Tekapo Springs 107

hypothermia 358

Iimmigration 19, 366insurance 359, 370-1internet access 359internet resources 35-6

skiing 41snowboarding 41

Invercargill 164-8, 165, 162itineraries 28-31, 28, 29,

30-1Abel Tasman National

Park 277Arrowtown 194Banks Peninsula 62Blenheim 276Doubtful Sound 150Glenorchy 194Karamea 238Lyttelton 62Marlborough Sounds 276Milford Sound 150Moeraki 117Otago Peninsula 116Port Chalmers 116Punakaiki 238Reefton 239Te Waewae Bay 151Waipara Valley 63Wanaka 195

JJackson Bay 244jetboating 47, 49, 48

KKahurangi National

Park 301-3Kaikoura 13, 316-22,

318, 12Kaikoura Coast

Track 278, 281Kaiteriteri 293Kaka Point 156-7Karamea 238, 268-70kayaking, see canoeing &

kayakingKenepuru Sound 303Kepler Track 153-4, 37,

155, 162Kinloch 220kiteboarding 49kiwis 174, 202, 252, 254,

177Kumara 258-9

LLake Brunner 262Lake Gunn 187Lake Hawea 228Lake Hayes 224Lake Kaniere 255Lake Mahinapua 255Lake Moeraki 242Lake Pukaki 107Lake Ruataniwha 113Lake Te Anau 153, 37Lake Tekapo 106-8, 14Lake Wakatipu 200Lake Wilkie 159Larnach Castle 139Lauder 143-4legal matters 360lesbian travellers 360Lewis Pass 91-2

tramping 64-5LGBT travellers 360literature 129, 347, 348little penguins 122-3, 139Lochmara 303-4Lorde 352Lyttelton 62, 84-5

MMacetown 225, 188Mackenzie Country 14,

100-108, 14Makarora 234-5Manapouri 180-1Māori culture 21, 341-7

arts 343-7Canterbury 91colonisation 331-2

haka 344-6language 346marae 345Otago 121Queenstown 215religion 343tā moko 343-4tattoos 343-4Wanaka 215weaving 344West Coast 258whakariro (carving) 344

Māori history 326-33, 341-2maps 35, 360Mapua 289marae 345Marahau 293-4Marlborough 56Marlborough District 302-

16, 275accommodation 274climate 274food 274highlights 275tramping 278-81travel seasons 274

Marlborough Sounds 10, 276, 303-7, 304, 11

Marlborough Wine Region 314-15, 312

Marlborough Wine & Food Festival 24

measures 359medical services 358Methven 98-100Middle-earth 349Middlemarch 142Milford Highway 186-7Milford Sound 9, 150, 182,

190-1, 209-10, 9, 163Milford Track 152-3, 36Mirror Lakes 187mobile phones 18, 362Moeraki 117, 127-8Moeraki Boulders 128Molesworth Station 95money 18, 357, 360-1Moriori people 327motorcycle travel 369-71

hire 370Motuara Island 303Motueka 290-3, 291mountain biking 46

Alexandra 144Queenstown 205Ruataniwha

Conservation Park 113Takaka Hill 297Wanaka 227-8

mountaineering 46-7Moutere Hills 289-90Mt Cook 108-12, 5Mt Somers 100Murchison 272-3museums & galleries 22

Aigantighe Art Gallery 102

Akaroa Museum 88-9Aoraki/Mt Cook National

Park Visitor Centre 109Arts Centre

(Christchurch) 70Art Deco Museum 142Art Station

(Dunedin) 128Bill Richardson Transport

World 20, 164Bluff Maritime

Museum 168Canterbury

Museum 69-70Cardrona Distillery &

Museum 233Central Art Gallery 70Central Stories 144Christchurch Art

Gallery 71Classic Motorcycle

Mecca 164Coaltown Museum 266Collingwood

Museum 300Dunedin Public Art

Gallery 129E Hayes & Sons 165Eastern Southland

Gallery 161Edwin Fox Maritime

Museum 307Fairlie Heritage

Museum 105Forrester Gallery 123Founders Heritage

Park 282-3Geraldine Historical

Museum 101Geraldine Vintage Car &

Machinery Museum 101Golden Bay Museum 297Havelock Museum 303Höglund Art Glass 290Hokitika Museum 254Hokonui Heritage Centre

161, 164Hokonui Moonshine

Museum 161, 164International Antarctic

Centre 72Kaikoura Museum 20,

316-22

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IND

EX M-P

Kurow Heritage & Information Centre 121

Lakes District Museum & Gallery 221

Left Bank Art Gallery 260

Lost Gypsy Gallery 158-9Marlborough

Museum 311Motueka District

Museum 291National Transport & Toy

Museum 226-7Nelson Provincial

Museum 282New Zealand Sports Hall

of Fame 128Okains Bay Māori &

Colonial Museum 86-7Omaka Aviation Heritage

Centre 311Omaka Classic Cars 311Otago Museum 131-2Owaka Museum &

Catlins Information Centre 157

Picton Museum 308-9Quake City 71Rakiura Museum 169-70Rutherford’s Den 70Shantytown 260Sir Edmund Hillary

Alpine Centre 109South Canterbury

Museum 103-4Southland Museum & Art

Gallery 164Steampunk HQ 123Suter Art Gallery 20, 282Te Ana Māori Rock Art

Centre 104Teece Museum of Classi-

cal Antiquities 70Te Hikoi Southern

Journey 175Toitū Otago Settlers

Museum 128-9Warbirds & Wheels 227Whitestone City 20, 123World of WearableArt &

Classic Cars Museum 282

music 351-2

NNaseby 143National Kiwi Centre 254

national parks & reserves 339

Abel Tasman National Park 9, 277, 294-7, 295, 8-9

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park 66-7, 108-12, 110-11, 5, 67

Arthur’s Pass National Park 65-6, 98, 66

Cave Stream Scenic Reserve 97

Fiordland National Park 180-91, 149

Grove Scenic Reserve 297

Hinewai Reserve 87Kahurangi National

Park 301-3Mavora Lakes

Conservation Park 183Nelson Lakes National

Park 288-9Paparoa National

Park 264-5, 188Pelorus Bridge Scenic

Reserve 306Rabbit Island/

Moturoa 290Rakiura National Park 171Talbot Forest Scenic

Reserve 101Victoria Forest Park 271Westland Tai Poutini

National Park 243-52Nelson 56, 282-8, 284

accommodation 283-5activities 283day trips from 276-7drinking 286-7entertainment 286-7events 283festivals 283food 285-6itineraries 276-7nightlife 286-7 shopping 287sights 282-3tourist information 287tours 283travel to/from 287travel within 287-8

Nelson Jazz Festival 24Nelson Lakes National

Park 288-9Nelson region, 275

accommodation 274climate 274food 274highlights 275itineraries 276-7

tramping 278-81travel seasons 274

New Zealand Cycle Trail 47

newspapers 359Nugget Point 156, 17

OOamaru 14, 122-7, 124, 14Oamaru Victorian Heritage

Celebrations 24Oban 169, 172Okarito 252-3Olveston 132Omakau 143-4Omarama 120-1opening hours 19, 361Ophir 143-4Otago 16, 55, 114-47,

115, 16accommodation 114climate 114cycling 118-19food 114highlights 115itineraries 116-17travel seasons 114

Otago Peninsula 15, 116, 138-42, 140-1, 15

Owaka 157-8oysters 169

PPancake Rocks 264, 188Paparoa National

Park 264-5, 188Papatowai 158-60Paradise 219paragliding 46

Nelson 283Queenstown 207

parasailing 49Queenstown 207

parks & gardensAnderson Park 166Botanic Gardens

(Christchurch) 68-9Botanical Reserve 282Caroline Bay Park 102-3Dunedin Botanic

Garden 132Dunedin Chinese

Garden 129Founders Heritage

Park 282-3Friendly Bay

Playground 123Giant’s House 89

Glenfalloch Woodland Garden 139

Hagley Park 68Oamaru Public

Gardens 123Pollard Park 311Queen’s Gardens 282Queens Park 164Queenstown

Gardens 201-2Timaru Botanic

Gardens 104Trevor Griffiths Rose

Garden 103Wanaka Station

Park 227Wither Hills Farm Park

311-12passports 366Peel Forest 100-1Pelorus Bridge Scenic

Reserve 306Pelorus Sound 303penguins

blue penguins 122-3little penguins 122-3, 139yellow-eyed

penguins 124, 126, 156-7, 160, 15

Petrified Forest 160phonecards 362Picton 307-11, 308planning

budgeting 19calendar of events 24-7children, travel

with 53-4internet resources 19itineraries 28-9repeat visitors 20skiing 41snowboarding 41South Island

basics 18-19South Island’s

regions 55-6tramping 35-6travel seasons 18

Pohara 300politics 324-5population 325Port Chalmers 116, 137-8postal services 361pounamu 259public holidays 361pubs 23, 51-2Punakaiki 238, 264-5, 188Puzzling World 227

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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379IN

DEX Q

-T QQueen Charlotte Sound 303-4Queenstown 10, 56, 200-19,

201, 204, 208, 10, 25, 52, 189

accommodation 210-12activities 202-7climate 192day trips from 194-5drinking 215-17entertainment 215-17events 210festivals 210food 212-15itineraries 194-5nightlife 215-17shopping 217sights 200-2tourist information 217tours 207-10tramping 196-9travel seasons 192travel to/from 217-18travel within 218-19

Queenstown Winter Festival 24, 210, 25

RRabbit Island/Moturoa 290radio 359Ranfurly 142-3Reefton 239, 270-1reserves, see national

parks & reserves, wild-life parks & reserves

Rings, Lord of the 349Riverstone 127Riverton 175Riwaka 292road trips 23Roaring Bay 156-7rock climbing 47

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park 111

Oamaru 124Port Chalmers 138Queenstown 207Wanaka 228

Ross 253-4Routeburn Track 196-7,

219, 34-5Roy’s Peak 199, 198-9Ruby Coast 289-90

Ssafety 361-2

car travel 371glaciers 246tramping 36

sea lions 139Selwyn District 96-7senior travellers 357skiing & snowboarding 21,

40-4, 42, 40, 43, 44Cardrona 233Coronet Peak 203,

43, 43Craigieburn Forest

Park 96Hanmer Springs 92Lake Tekapo 106Mt Hutt 99Mt Lyford 94Queenstown 202-3Remarkables, the 203Selwyn District 96Twizel 113Waitaki Valley 122Wanaka 228

skydiving 47Fox Glacier 246Franz Josef Glacier 250Motueka 291Queenstown 207

Skyline Gondola 202, 189Slope Point 160smoking 359snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingsnowboarding, see skiing &

snowboardingSouthern Scenic Route 159Southland 56, 148-80, 149

accommodation 148climate 148food 148, 161highlights 149itineraries 150-1tramping 152-5travel seasons 148

St Bathans 144stargazing 106Stewart Island/Rakiura 13,

169-74, 170-1, 172, 13Stirling Point 168surfing 47

Christchurch 73Curio Bay 160Dunedin 132Kaikoura 317

swimmingChristchurch 73Dunedin 132

TTakaka 297-300Takaka Hill 297Tasman, Abel 327-9

Tasman District 288-302Tasman Glacier 109taxis 372Te Anau 182-6, 184

day trips from 150-1Te Waewae Bay 151, 175telephone services 18, 362television 349-50, 359That Wanaka Tree 227theatre 346Timaru 102-5, 103time 18, 362tipping 361toilets 362tourist information 362-3tours

Fiordland 183Milford Sound 190-1Okarito 252-3Stewart Island/

Rakiura 171-2Whataroa 253

train travel 33, 132-3, 372tramping 21, 34-9, 34-5

Abel Tasman Coast Track 279-80, 280

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park 109

Arrowtown 221-3Avalanche Peak 65Banks Track 64Bealey Spur 66Ben Lomond Track 203Blue Pools Walk 234Canterbury 64-7, 64Cascade Saddle 198Catlins River-Wisp Loop

Track 157-8 Christchurch 73Copland Track 241Croesus Track 263Dunedin 132Dusky Track 154Fiordland 181Fox Glacier 244-6Franz Josef

Glacier 249-50Gillespie Pass

Circuit 198-9Glenorchy 219Goat Pass Track 65-6Great Walks 37-8Greenstone Caples

Tracks 197Greymouth 261Haast Pass Lookout

Track 234Harper Pass 66Heaphy Track 270, 280-1

Hollyford Track 153, 154Hooker Valley Track 67,

2, 67Hump Ridge Track 154Inland Pack Track 241Kahuangi National

Park 301Kaikoura 317Kaikoura Coast

Track 278, 281Karamea 269Kea Point Track 111Kepler Track 153-4, 37,

155, 162Lake Angelus Track 281Lake Tekapo 106Makarora 234-5Marlborough

region 278-81Milford Track 152-3, 36Mt Robert Circuit

Track 288Mt Shrimpton Track 234Mt Somers track 100Mueller Hut Route 66-7Murchison 272Nelson Lakes National

Park 288Nelson region 278-81,

283, 278North West Circuit

Track 155Nydia Track 303Old Ghost Road 240-1Oparara Basin 269Otago Peninsula 139Peel Forest 100-1Picton 309Punakaiki 264Pupu Hydro Walkway 298Queen Charlotte

Track 279, 307Queenstown 196-9,

203, 196Rakaia Gorge

Walkway 99Rakiura Track 155Reefton 271Rees-Dart Track 197Rob Roy Track 198Routeburn Track 196-7,

219, 34-5Roy’s Peak 199, 198-9Ruataniwha

Conservation Park 113Ship Creek 242Southland 152-5, 152St Arnaud Range

Track 288St James Walkway 64-5

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IND

EX T-Y

Stewart Island/ Rakiura 171

Takaka 298Takaka Hill 297Tasman Glacier 109Te Anau 183Te Araroa 39transport 39Wanaka 196-9, 227Wangapeka 301West Coast 240-1Westport 266-7Wilkin Valley Track 234-5

Transitional Cathedral 72, 58

transport 32-3TranzAlpine 17, 76,

260-1, 17travel to/from the South

Island 366-7travel within the South

Island 32-3, 367-72trees 338-9Tuatapere 180Twizel 112-13

UUlva Island 170-1University of Otago 132

Vvaccinations 358vegetarian travellers 52visas 363-4visual arts 346, 350volcanoes 336volunteering 364

WWaipapā Lighthouse 160Waipara Valley 63, 94-6Waitaki District 120-8Waitaki Valley 121-2Waitangi, Treaty of 330, 331Waiuta 271walking, see trampingWanaka 56, 192, 195, 225-

33, 193, 226, 25accommodation 192,

230-1activities 227-9climate 192drinking 232entertainment 232events 229festivals 229food 192, 231-2highlights 193itineraries 194-5nightlife 232sights 226-7tourist information 232-3tours 229tramping 196-9, 196travel seasons 192travel to/from 233travel within 233

Warbirds Over Wanaka 25, 25

waterfallsFantail Falls 243Humboldt Falls 191Matai & Horseshoe

Falls 158McLean Falls 159

Purakaunui Falls 157Thunder Creek Falls 243

weather 18, 24-7, 356weights 359West Coast 56, 236-73, 237

accommodation 236climate 236food 236highlights 237itineraries 238-9travel seasons 236

Westland 242-59Westland Tai Poutini

National Park 243-52Westport 266-8

day trips from 238-9whale-watching 319, 12Whataroa 253whitebait 272white-water rafting 49

Buller River 272Kaikoura 317Peel Forest 101Queenstown 206Rangitata River 101Wanaka 228-9

wildlife parks & reservesBlue Penguin Colony 122-3Kiwi Birdlife Park 202Motuara Island 303National Kiwi Centre 254Nature’s Wonders

Naturally 138-9Orana Wildlife Park 72Orokonui

Ecosanctuary 138Penguin Place 139Point Kean Seal

Colony 316-17

Punanga Manu o Te Anau 182

Royal Albatross Centre & Fort Taiaroa 139

Ulva Island 170-1West Coast Wildlife

Centre 249Willowbank Wildlife

Reserve 72wildlife watching, see also

wildlife parks & reservesCatlins, the 158Franz Josef Glacier 252Kaikoura 317-19Orana Wildlife Park 72Stewart Island/

Rakiura 173Wildwire Wanaka 20wine 314-15wine regions 21, 52, 216,

314-15, 312wineries

Bannockburn 147Gibbston Valley 216Lake Hayes 224Marlborough

District 314-15, 312Upper Moutere 290Waipara Valley 95Waitaki Valley 121Wanaka 227

women travellers 364work 364-5World Buskers Festival 24

Yyachts 367yellow-eyed penguins 124,

126, 156-7, 160, 15

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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381N

OTES

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382

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Anita Isalska Fiordland & Southland, West Coast Anita Isalska is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter. After several merry years as a staff writer and editor – a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance between Australia, the UK and any Alpine chalet with good wi-fi. Anita writes about France, Eastern Eu-rope, Southeast Asia and off-beat travel. Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Peter Dragicevich After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere.

Brett Atkinson Marlborough & Nelson Brett Atkinson is based in Auckland, New Zealand, but is frequently on the road for Lonely Planet. He’s a full-time travel and food writer specialising in adventure travel, unusual destinations, and surprising angles on more well-known destinations. Craft beer and street food are Brett’s favourite reasons to explore places, and he is featured regularly on the Lonely Planet website, and in newspapers, magazines and websites across New Zealand and

Australia. Since becoming a Lonely Planet author in 2005, Brett has covered areas as diverse as Vietnam, Sri Lanka, the Czech Republic, New Zealand, Morocco, California and the South Pacific.

Andrew Bain Queenstown & Wanaka Andrew Bain prefers adventure to avarice and can usu-ally be found walking when he should be working. His writing and photography feature in magazines and newspapers around the world, and his writing has won multiple awards, including best adventure story and best Australian story (three times) from the Australian Society of Travel Writers. He was formerly commis-sioning editor of Lonely Planet’s outdoor adventure series of titles, and is the

author of Headwinds, the story of his 20,000-kilometre cycle journey around Australia, and Lonely Planet’s A Year of Adventures.

Samantha Forge Christchurch & Canterbury, Dunedin & Otago Samantha became hooked on travel at the age of 17, when she arrived in London with an overstuffed backpack and a copy of LP’s Europe on a Shoestring. After a stint in Paris, she moved back to Aus-tralia to work as an editor in LP’s Melbourne office. Eventually her wanderlust got the better of her, and she now works as a freelance writer and editor. Samantha also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 983

6th edition – Sep 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 082 6© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’