IamgratefultoElinorKlivansandherpublisher,ChronicleBooks,SanFranciso,forpermissiontoreprintherrecipeforTotallyChocolateChocolate

ChipCookiesfromherbookBigFatCookies.

Contents

TITLEPAGEDEDICATION

INTRODUCTION

1EVERYDAYEASYSpeedysuppersdayin,dayout

2WORKDAYWINNERS

Weekdayentertainingmadeeasy

3RETRORAPIDOTimewarpfavoritesgiventheexpresstwist

4GETUPANDGO

Breakfast,evenfaster!

5QUICKQUICKSLOWPrepareaheadtosavetimelater

6AGAINSTTHECLOCKNotime?Noproblem

7INSTANTCALMER

Speedysoulfood

8RAZZLEDAZZLE

Giveapartypronto!

9SPEEDYGONZALES

Mexican-inspiredmoments

10ONTHERUNPicnics,packedlunches,andfoodtobeeatenonthego

11HEYPRESTOInstantItalian

12HOLIDAYSNAPSChristmasquickies

13STORECUPBOARDSOSHowtocopewhenyouhaven’tgottimetogoshopping

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

INDEXABOUTTHEAUTHOR

ALSOBYNIGELLALAWSON

COPYRIGHT

INTRODUCTION

Thisis,asthetitlemakesclear,abookaboutfastfood,butitisabookaboutfastfoodforthosewholoveeating.Perhapsthat’sself-evident:HowcouldIwriteanyothersort?ButIstartwiththispremisebecausesomuchiswrittenabouttheneedtoreducethetimewemustspendcooking,it’sasifthekitchenwereahatefulplace,almostanunsafeplace,andthatitmustbeonlyreasonableforustoavoidit.Ilovefood,IadorebeinginthekitchenandIamhappytocook.Buthere’stheproblem:Thedaydoesn’thaveenoughgapsinitformetodomuchshoppingandtheevening—whatwiththebattlesoverhomework,thestillunchecked-offlistofthingsIwasmeanttodo,thecallsIwassupposedtoreturn—doesn’tyieldmuchtimetocook.ButImusteat,andImusteatwell—orelsewhatisthepointofitall?Andthentherearethepeoplewhoneedtobefed.Idon’tmentionthemgrudgingly,either.Ilovetofeedpeople,andrareisthepersonwhocomesintomyhomeandleaveswithoutafoilparcelofsomethingfromthekitchen.

Ihavehadtoadapt.Imanagetohaveafridgefulloffoodandaliferichintheexpectationofdinner,butwithintheconfinesofatimetablethatisdisorganized,busy,fullofthingsIwanttodoaswellasthingsIdon’twanttodo—thoughsometimesI’msotiredIcan’ttellthedifference.Inshort,Ihaveanormallife,thesortweallshare.Tobesure,IcanoccasionallyfindtheoddweekendorrainyafternoonwhenIamabletolosemyselfinanafternoon’sstirring,chopping,kneading,orgeneralpursuitofunhurriedcooking,butforthemostpart,Iameitherinahurryorinsomestateofpsycho-fizzorobligation-overload,andfoodhastobefittedin.

EvenifImightneverhavethoughtthatabookoffastfoodrecipeswouldbethenaturaloneformetowrite,ithasbeenbothpleasurableandeasy.Afterall,therecipesarealreadythere.ForthisisthefoodIdoeat,dayindayout.Idon’tknowifIhavequitespelledoutmyfoodobsessivenessbefore,butit’sthecasethatItakenotesofeverythingIcook(evenifthenotesaresometimeshardtoreadlater),andIkeepadigitalcamerainthekitchentorecordeachfinisheddish,ifnotforposterity,formyowngreedyarchives.Inaway,then,thisbookhaswrittenitself.Thisisjustaswell,sinceIleftmyselfbarelyenoughtimeto

writeit.Mysister,Horatia,saidIwaslikeWallaceandGromit,layingdownthetracksjustintimeforthetraintorideoverthem;andalthoughit’sbeenabithairyattimes,itdoes,however,seementirelyfittingforabookcalledNigellaExpress.

Ifeel,though,thatImustemphasizethis:Cookingisonlyonepartoftheexercise;theshoppingandplanningcanbethemoststressfulparts.Ihavetriedtokeeptheingredientslistsasshortaspossibleand,althoughIhaven’texcludedallreconditeitemsfromthem,Itrytomakesureanyshoppingtrippaysforitself,timewise.That’stosay,ifIaskyou(ormyself)tobuysomethingforonerecipe,Itrytosupplyotheroutingsforit.Butavoidingtherecherchéorunfamiliarwouldn’tbetheanswer,inanycase:afterall,thereisnoway,howeverbasicthesuppliesrequired,thatshoppingcanbedispensedwith.Eggsandbacondon’tmagicallyappearinthekitchen:theyneedtobeshoppedforjustascoconutmilkorwasabidoes.Imakethisembarrassinglyobviouspoint,becauseIthinkweallneedremindingofit.

It’snot,however,formetotellyouhowtoplanyourshoppingororderyourstorecupboard.IdomuchofmyshoppingontheInternet(toomuch,somewouldsay),gotospecialtystoreswhenIfindthetime(formethat’sfun,notduty),andhavetheoddturnaroundthesupermarket.Intheoccasionalrecipe,whereI’vethoughtitmightbehelpful,I’venotedanonlinesourceforaningredientthatcouldbeharderforyoutofindlocally.

I’vealsobeenquitestrictwithmyself.Ican’t—couldn’tpossibly—eradicateallwitterfrommywritinglife,butIhavetriedtorestrictthebabbletotheintroductiontoeachrecipeandhavethengiventhemethodinanumberofshort,precisesteps.Thisistomakesureyouneverhavetoturnapagetocontinuearecipeandtohelpeverystepreadasclearlyasitcan.Thereisn’tarecipeinherethatisn’tgloriouslysimpletocook,andIwantedtomakethatimmediatelyevidentonthepage.

Icouldgoon,butintheinterestofbrevityandtheExpressspirit,itseemsonlyrighttocutstraighttothechase.Therecipesthatfollowarenotsimplyquicktocook,theyattempttomakethewholeofyourcookinglife—andasaconsequenceallofyourlife—easier.Theyarearrangedinchapters,butpleasedon’tfeelconfinedbythese.Read,browse,sample,fiddleaboutasyouseefit.Asincooking,soinlife:WemuddlethroughasbestwecanandthisiswhatNigellaExpressisallabout.

NOTEFORTHEREADER

ALLEGGSARELARGE,ORGANICALLBUTTERISUNSALTEDALLHERBSAREFRESH,UNLESSSTATEDALLCHOCOLATEISDARK(MIN.70%COCOASOLIDS),UNLESSSTATEDSEEHEREFORINFORMATIONABOUTINFUSEDOILS

Mostdays,Iapproachcookingsupperwithlessthanabsoluteperkiness.ThisisneverbecauseIcan’tfaceitoreventhatIresentit,butbecause,attheendofalong,workingday,andafterIhavewrestledwithchildren’shomeworkandotherdomesticdemands,andfeelthatIamnothingmorethanthesumofmyimpatienceandirritationand,ofcourse,tetchyexhaustion,Ijustcan’teventhinkofwhattheremightbetocook.

Actually,thecookingitselfistheleastofit,andthisisnotjustbecausethekitchenisaplaceofsanctuaryforme.Now,planning,shopping,deciding:Thesearetherealdrainers.Isometimesthinkhowmucheasierthingswereinmygrandmother’sday.Shehadaschedule,andanunchangingone.Withoutlookingatacalendar,IcouldknowwhatdayoftheweekitwasbywhatIwasgivenfordinnerthere.Ofcourse,wearemoreadventurousthesedaysandwouldnotwishtoinflictthattediumonourchildren.Butalittleofthatorderisdesirable.Iactuallythinkitcanleadtomorevariationratherthanless.Idon’tliketoownuptohowoftenmychildrengetpastawithpestoormeatsauceforsupperbecauseIamaccustomedtolifeasafreespiritinthekitchen.

SonowwhatItryanddoismakesurethatIamalittlemorerepetitivethanIoncemighthavelikedwhilewritingmyshoppinglists.Luckily,Ibegintoseethatrepetition,too,hasitsvirtues.Iknow,atleast,thatIcangetsupperonthetablewithoutgoingshoppingafresheveryday.Idon’tfollowtherecipesbelowenormouslyrigorously;that’stosayIcertainlydeviate,bothintheregularitywithwhichtheyappearandtheirregularityofthewayinwhichIfollowthem.Iamnotgoodatauthority,evenwhenthatauthorityismyown.

Still,Ihaveoneruleandit’sasimpleenoughonetoadhereto.Andit’sthatit’sneverworthcookinganythingforsupperunlessitcanstandonequalfootingwithoneoflife’sgreatandsimplestgastro-delights,boiledeggontoast(thebestfree-rangeeggs,softboiled,rapidlypeeledandsquishedonthicksourdoughorryetoast).Ofcourse,Idon’twantthateveryday,butnordoIwanttosettleforanythingless.Ifitcan’tmeasureuptothat,Idon’twanttoeatit.HoweverlittletimeoreffortIcanexpendontheday’ssupper,Ihavetoknowitwilldelivernothinglessthanpurepleasure.Therecipesthatfollowsatisfythatmostnecessaryofedicts.

SMOKEDCODANDCANNELLINI

Ofallmyreliablestandbys,thisisoneofmyspeediest.Ofcoursethere’smoretoit.I’mtoogreedytosettleformereefficiency.IfirstmadethiswithsomesmokedhaddockwhichI’dbeenthinkingofusingforakedgeree,butIranoutofsteam—andtime.Mythinkingwasthatreplacingthestarchofthericewiththestarchofsomecannellinibeanswouldwork.Itdid.Indeeditworkedsowell,Icannowneverbewithoutsomecannedcannelliniinthecupboard.

Inspirationdoesn’ttellthewholestory,asthedishthatfollowsbearsnorelationatalltokedgeree,beingrathermoreItalianatethanAnglo-Indianinitsflavor.Thespontaneityofend-of-the-daycookingmeans—howeverImightmeantoplan—thatthisis,inculinaryterms,suigeneris.

ButthenItaketheviewthatmostofthebestthingsinlifearehappyaccidents.

12ozsmokedcod(orhaddock)filletsmallsprigparsleyincludingstalks2bayleaves1teaspoonpeppercorns1celerystalk1⅔cupswater⅓cupwhitewine214-ozcans/3½cupscannellinibeans¼–½cupfish-cookingliquid(see3,below)2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil2tablespoonschoppedparsley

1tablespoonchoppedchives,optional

1Laythefishfilletsinalargefryingpanwiththesprigofparsley,bayleaves,peppercorns,andcelerystalk.Pourinthewaterandwineandbringtoaboil.

2Coverthepanwithfoilandsimmerthefishinthepoachingliquidfor3–5minutes,dependingonthethicknessofthefish.Takeofftheheatandremovethefish,wrappingthepiecesinfoiltokeepwarm.

3Tipoutallbutabout¼–½cupofthepoachingliquidfromthepan.Thiswilldependonthedepthofyourpan.

4Drainthecannedbeans,rinsingtheminasieveorcolandertogetridofanygloopinessandaddtothepan,warmingtheminthepoachingliquidforabout

3minutes.(Addalittlemorepoachingliquidifnecessarytomoistenthebeans.)

5Turnofftheheatandplacethefishontopofthebeansinthepan.Addtheoil,mostoftheparsley,andthechives,ifyou’reusingthem,stirringeverythingtogether,breakingupthefishasyougo.

6Checktheseasoningandturnoutintoacoupleofbowlsorplates,sprinklewithalastbitofparsley,andeat,withrelish.

Serves2

ANGLO-ASIANLAMBSALAD

IlovethetangyfireofThaicooking;IloveequallythetraditionalEnglishpartnershipoflambwithredcurrantandmint.Ijusthappened,oneday,justbecauseofwhatIhadinthekitchen,tobringthetwotogether.ConsideritanovinereworkingofthosehotandsourbeefsaladsofSoutheastAsia.Alambloin,sometimesdescribedastheeyeofthesaddle,isthefleshycomponent,thoughanyleancutoflambwoulddo.RedcurrantjellystandsinforthesweetnessofjaggeryorpalmsugarandIusericevinegar(alwayseasilyonhand)insteadoflimejuice.Iamnotmarriedtosomeonewhowouldnormallyregardasaladasatreatforsupper,butmyhusbandlovesthis—anddoesn’tevennoticeitisasalad.

Itisalsoausefulrecipetohaveupyoursleeveforastarterondayswhendiningseemstorequireone.Itryandkeepthosedays—ornights—toaminimum,ortowhenI’minarestaurant.

2teaspoonsgarlic-infusedoil1loinoflamb,approx.8ozinweight2tablespoonsfishsauce(nampla)2tablespoonsricevinegar

1tablespoonredcurrantjelly1teaspoonsoysauce1redchile,deseededandfinelychopped,or¼teaspoondriedchileflakes1scallion,finelysliced

4cupssaladleaves3tablespoonsfreshlychoppedmint

1Heatthegarlic-infusedoilinapan,andcookthelambfor5minutesononeside,turningitoverandcookingforanother2½minutesontheother.Wrapthemeatinfoil,makingabaggypackagethatisatightlysealedparcel,andletitrestforabout5minutes.

2Inamedium-sizedbowl,whisktogetherthefishsauce,vinegar,redcurrantjelly,soysauce,deseededchoppedchile,andslicedscallion.

3Openthefoilparcel,emptyingthemeatjuicesintothedressing.Slicethelambintoveryfineslicesorstripsandaddthemtoo;theacidinthedressingwill“cook”thelambalittlemorewhileitissteeped.Ifitisnotveryrare,I’dleaveitforashorttimeand,consequently,foralongertimeifitseems

undercooked.Youwantitstillgorgeouslypinkonitssalad.

4Dividethesaladleavesamongtwo(orfour)platesandthenarrangethelambwiththedressingovereachone.Finally,scatteroverthechoppedmint.

Serves2asamaincourse,4asastarter

SALMONESCALOPESWITHWATERCRESS,SUGARSNAPS,ANDAVOCADO

Thisisanidealrecipeforthosedayswhenyou’reassqueezedfortimetoshopastocook:Youjustrushintothesupermarketatlunchoronthewayhome,grabafewpackages,andrushoutagain.

“Wokoil”ishowtheoilIliketouseherecomeslabeled:Itcontainsvegetableoil,sesameoil,ginger,andgarlic;butgarlicoil,chileoilor,indeed,justoil-oilwouldbefine.

2thin-cutsalmonsteaksorescalopes,approx.4ozeach2tablespoonsricevinegar1teaspoonsugar

½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoontablesalt2tablespoonswokoil4cupswatercress1cupminiaturesugarsnappeas1smallripeavocado

1Heataheavy-based,nonstickskilletandwhenhotcookthesalmonescalopesforaboutaminuteaside.Removetoacoupleofdinnerplates.

2Whiskthericevinegar,sugar,salt,andwokoiltogetheranddrizzleeachsalmonsteakwithaboutateaspooneach,andsettherestasideforamoment.

3Dividethewatercressandsugarsnapsbetweeneachplateandthenhalvetheavocado,removethestone,and,usingateaspoon,gougeouttheavocadoflesh,droppingthepiecesasyougoinamongstthetangleofwatercressandsugarsnaps.

4Pourtheremainingdressingoverthesaladsandserveimmediately.

Serves2

MUSTARDPORKCHOPS

IlovetheoldFrenchfavorites,thesortsthatevokenotthesuperciliouswaiterandtheatricallyremovedsilvereddomeofthebig-namerestaurants,butratherthesmall-townbistro,allwarmwoodandroughredwine.

Thisispossiblytheeasiestroutetoaproper,filling,andyetstrangelydelicatedinner.Theporkiscookedforjustenoughtimetotakeawaypinknessbutensuretendernesswithin,andgloriouslyscorchedwithout.Themustard,cider,andcreamaddcomfortandpiquancy.

Tosoakupthegorgeousjuices,andtoserveasafantasticallyquickpotatosubstitute,Iserveupgnocchialongside.Youcouldalwaysaddalittlelemonyfennel,slicedthinly,oragreensaladifyou’reinthemood.

2porkchops,about1lbtotalweight2teaspoonsgarlicoil½cuphardcider1tablespoonwhole-grainmustard⅓cupheavycream

1Cutthefatoffthechops,andthenbashthembrieflybutbrutallywitharollingpinbetweentwopiecesofplasticwraptomakethemthinner.

2Heattheoilinapan,andthencookthechopsoveramoderatelyhighheatforabout5minutesperside.Removethemtoawarmedplate.

3Pourtheciderintothepan,stillovertheheat,todeglazethepan.Letitbubbleawayforaminuteorso,thenaddthemustardandstirinthecream.

4Letthesaucecontinuecookingforafewminutesbeforepouringovereachplatedporkchop.Ifyou’rehavinggnocchiwith,makesureyouturntheminthepantoabsorbanysparejuicesbeforeaddingthemtoyourplates.

Serves2

TURKEYFILLETSWITHANCHOVY,GHERKIN,ANDDILL

Ihavelongbeenanexcitablefanofturkey,that’stosaythefamiliarfestiveroastturkey,butIhavecomeonlyrecentlytoappreciatetheblander,leanercutsthatlineoursupermarkets’refrigeratedshelves.DoIsoundsneering?Forceofhabit,perhaps.Ihavelongresistedthesortofmeatthatisprizedalmostexclusivelyforitslowfatcontent(whatathingtodo,tolikefoodforwhatitlacks),butI’vefoundmyselfcookingwithturkeypartsmoreandmore.Notleast,Ilovethecontrastofitsmildmeattosharp,pungentflavorings,thesortofflavoringsthatlivebymystoveandlendthemselvestolazyeveningcookingveryhandsomely.

Thesaltinessoftheanchoviesandthesharpnessofthegherkinsgivethetimidturkeyrealbitehere,andIlovetheGermanicsprinklingofdillafter.Itendtoeatthiswithsomethingplain,ricefromthericecookerorsomesteamedtinynewpotatoesoravastplateofbroccoli.Thebroccoli(inthiscasesomefabuloussproutingpurplebroccoli)needsnomorethansomebutteroroil,butifyoufeellikegoingallout(relativelyspeaking),trythemustard-caperbuttersauceonthefacingpage.

5anchovyfillets2tablespoonsoliveoil14oz/3smallturkeybreastfillets,beatenasthinlyaspossible,eachfilletthencutinhalf2tablespoonsvermouth2gherkins,finelychopped2tablespoonschoppedfreshdill

1Heattheanchovyfilletsandoilinafryingpan,stirringwithawoodenspoonuntilthefilletsbegintomeltinthepan.

2Flash-frytheturkeyinthesamepan,cookingforacoupleofminutesoneachside.Removethemeattoawarmservingplate.

3Addthevermouthandchoppedgherkins,andlettheliquidreduceandsizzleforaminuteorso.

4Pourovertheplatedturkeyandsprinklewiththechoppeddill.

Serves4

MUSTARD-CAPERSAUCEFORBROCCOLI

6tablespoonsbutter2teaspoonsDijonmustardjuiceofhalfalemon2tablespoonscapers

1Putthebutter,mustard,andlemonjuiceintoapanovermediumheat.

2Asthebuttermelts,whiskalltheingredientstogetherandthenaddthecapers.

3Pourtheemulsifiedsauceovercookedbroccoliandserve.

Makesenoughtodress½to1lbbroccoli

REDSHRIMPANDMANGOCURRY

Thisisoneoftheeasiestsupperstomakeandsomehow,howevermuchIknowthis,italwayssurprisesme.Notinthecooking,somuchasintheeating:Ican’tbelieve,eachtimeanew,howdeepandtexturedandfull-throttle,inasweet,comfortingway,thistastes,whenallIdidwasabitofshoppingandsomelightstirring.

ObviouslyithelpsifyoucanhavesomeoftheconveniencestuffIlistbelow:Thepeeledandcubedsquash,sweetpotato,andmangoIfindatthesupermarketmakethisabreeze.Butifyoucan’tfindthem,nomatter:Addsomedrainedcannedchickpeasandperhaps,forsomesour-sweetedge,somepineapplethat’sbeeninitsownjuice,notsyrup.Asforthecoconutmilk,Ioftenusethewholecanratherthanamerehalfbelow;itreallydependsonwhetherIfeellikeeatingoutofadeepbowl,soupily,orashallowone.TogowithIsuggesteitherplainriceorsomeplainwidericenoodlescookedaccordingtopackageinstructions(allofabout2minutes)andtossedinsometoastedchoppedunsaltedcoconut-flavoredpeanuts.

Ifyouhavesomefreshshrimpsomuchthebetter,butIstipulatethefrozenonesbelowsinceIregularlykeeptheminthefreezerforaneveningwhenIfeellikeeatinggorgeouslywithverylittleforethought.

1scallion,finelysliced1tablespoongarlicorchileoil1½tablespoonsredThaicurrypaste(oraccordingtotaste)abouthalfofa14-ozcancoconutmilktogive1cup1cupchickenstock

2teaspoonsfishsauce(nampla)12oz/2½cupsbutternutsquashandsweetpotatocubes7ozfrozenkingshrimptogive2cups1cupmangocubes

1teaspoonlimejuice3–4tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro

1Frytheslicedscallionintheoilforaminute,thenaddthecurrypaste.

2Whiskinthecoconutmilk,stock,andfishsauceandbringtoaboil.

3Tipinthebutternutsquashandsweetpotatocubesandsimmer,partiallycovered,forabout15minutesoruntiltender.

4Draintheshrimpunderrunningwatertoremoveexcessiceandtumblethemintothepan,lettingthesaucecomebacktoaboil.Whenitdoes,addthedicedmangoandlimejuiceandcookforanotherminuteorsountiltheshrimparecookedthrough.

5Sprinklewiththechoppedcilantroasyouserveoverplainriceorwidericenoodles,orevenboth.

Serves2–4,dependingonhungerandwhetheryou’reexpectingtoeatanythingelseatsupper.

QUICKCALAMARIWITHGARLICMAYONNAISE

Strangethoughitmightsoundtosayit,thisisanotherofmysupperstandbys.Ikeepthefrozencalamariinthedeep-freeze,takingitoutinthemorningatbreakfasttoletitthawintimefortheevening’smeal.Iprefertoeatamassiveamountofthis,andnothingelse(Icaneatthewholelotmyself)ratherthanhaveitmoremeanlyasastarterunless,inalifeoutsideofthischapter’sparameters,I’mexpectingcompany,inwhichcaseitwouldhappilystretchtofourpeople,readytodunkeachcrisppieceofsquidintothegarlicmayonnaiseoverpre-dinnerdrinks.

1cuppeanutoilorasneededdependingonthesizeofpan1lbfrozencalamari(tubesandtentacles)togive12ozunfrozen,thawedintherefrigerator¼cupsemolina

2tablespoonscornstarch2teaspoonsOldBayseasoning(orusesaltandpaprika)FORTHEGARLICMAYONNAISE

1clovegarlic½cupbestquality,preferablyorganic,mayonnaise

1Heattheoilinasmallishsaucepanandwhileit’sheating,cutthethawedcalamariinto½-inchrings.

2Putthesemolina,cornstarch,andseasoningintoaplasticfreezerbag.

3Addthecalamariringsandtentaclesandthentosstocoat.

4Whentheoilishotenough,whichiswhenitsizzlesupfiercelywhenyoudropinasmallcubeofbread,frythecalamariinbatchestogetthemostgoldencrunchiness.Acoupleofminutesperbatchisallyoushouldneed.

5Liftthecalamarifromthepanusingaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowels.

6Grateorcrushthegarlic.Stirwelltomixintothemayonnaiseandservealongsidethefriedcalamari.

Serves2

NAANPIZZA

AttimeswhenI’mpretendingtoindulgethechildren,butamreallytooexhaustedtocook,Iorderpizza.Butactuallythisismypreferredoption.Icaneatawholepizzainitsboxandalwaysregretitafterward.ThisisnotmuchhardertocookthanmakingaphonecallandIfeelmuchhappierforit.Thisismytoppingofpreference;feelfreetoplayabouttomakeyourown.AllIfeelstronglyisthatwhiletakeoutpizzacrustsarevile,packagednaans,whenheated,arenot.

1naan,about8incheslong2teaspoonstomatopuree(choppedandsievedtomatoes)fromajarorothertomatosauce½cupdrainedmixedmushroomantipastofromajar½cuproughlychoppedfontina3freshthymestalks

1Preheattheovento425°F.Laythenaanonabakingsheetlinedwithbakingparchment,aluminumfoil,oraSilpat.

2Spreadtomatopureeorsauceoverthenaan,thentumbleoverthedrainedmushroomsandsprinkleoverthechoppedcheesebeforefinallystrewingwiththethymeleavesstrippedfromthestalks.

3Cookintheovenforabout5minutes,bywhichtimethecheeseshouldbebubblingandmelted.Becarefulnottoburnyourmouth.

Serves1

ROASTCORNISHHENANDSWEETPOTATOES

ThisismyalmostregularasclockworkSaturdaynightsupper.IfinditenormouslyeasyandrelaxingtomakesinceallIdoisgodownstairs,puteverythingintheoven,andthengobackuptoSaturdayeveningTVinbeduntilit’sready—andthen,frankly,backagain.

IfIcooktheCornishhensinthesamepanasthesweetpotatoes,Icutacoupleofslicesofbreadandputoneunderneatheachbirdinthepan,soastoabsorbthejuicesandstopthemfromseepingintothesweetpotatoes,which,inturn,wouldpreventthemfromcrispingandbrowning.Butmoreoftenthannot,Idispensewiththebread(youcanimaginehowgoodittasteslaterthough)andjustgettwodisposablefoilroastingpansaboutthesizeofbrowniepanseachandputtheCornishhensinoneandthesweetpotatoesinanotherandreuniteontheplatewithalittlewatercressandasquirtoflimejuicelater.

ImusthaveEnglishmustardwiththis.Iknowit’saweakness,butnotoneI’mwillingtorenounce.

2Cornishhens2tablespoonsgarlicorcanolaoil1sweetpotato,weighingapproximately1lb¼teaspoongroundcumin

¼teaspoongroundcinnamon1–2bunchesofwatercresskoshersaltgoodsquirtlimejuice

1Preheattheovento425°F.Putthebirdsintoasmallbakingpanorfoilpan,pouringover1tablespoonofoil.

2Cuttheunpeeledsweetpotatointo2½-inchcubesandputthemintoanothersmallishpanorfoilpan.

3Pourovertheothertablespoonofoilandsprinkleoverthespices,thentosseverythingtogetherbyshakingthepan.

4Cookboththehensandsweetpotatoesinthepreheatedovenfor45minutes.

5PuteachCornishhenonaplate,withatangleofwatercressandthesweetpotatoesalongside.Sprinklewithkoshersalttotasteandspritzwithlimejuice,andgotoit!

Serves2

CARAMELCROISSANTPUDDING

Ialwaysthinkthatsomeofthebestrecipescomefromthethriftyrefusaltothrowanythingaway.CertainlyImadethisoneMondayeveningbecauseIhadtwostalecroissantsleftoverfromtheweekendandjustknewtheycouldbeputtogooduse.Now,addingcreamandbourbonisprobablyalotlessthriftythanthrowingsomestalebreadawayinthefirstplace,butthisissuchafabulousdessertthatInowthinkitshouldbeeveryMondaynight’ssupper.AndImeansupper:Withsomethingthissubstantial,youcertainlyneedeatnothingbeforehand.ThoughIadmitasmallcrunchysaladmaynotbeabadideafirst.

Oh,andifyoudon’thaveanybourboninthehouse,firstmayIsay,pleaseconsiderit,andsecond,replaceit,rather,withrum.Scotchwhiskymayseemtheobvioussubstitutebutitwouldbethewrongone,Ifeel.

2stalecroissants1cupsugar2tablespoonswater½cupheavycream½cupwholemilk2tablespoonsbourbon2eggs,beaten

1Preheattheovento350°F.

2Tearthecroissantsintopiecesandputinasmallgratindish;Iuseacast-ironovalonewithacapacityofabout2cupsforthis.

3Putthesugarandwaterintoasaucepan,andswirlaroundtohelpdissolvethesugarbeforeputtingthesaucepanontheburnerovermediumtohighheat.

4Caramelizethesugarandwatermixturebylettingitbubbleawayuntilitallturnsadeepambercolor;thiswilltake3–5minutes.Keeplookingbutdon’tbetootimid.

5Turnheatdowntolowandaddthecream—ignoringallspluttering—and,

whisking,themilkandbourbon.Anysolidtoffeethatformsinthepanwilldissolveeasilyifyoukeepwhiskingoverlowheat.Takeofftheheatand,stillwhisking,addthebeateneggs.Pourthecaramelbourboncustardoverthecroissantsandleavetosteepfor10minutesifthecroissantsareverystale.

6Placeinthepreheatedovenfor20minutesandpreparetoswoon.

Serves2greedypeople

RHUBARBANDCUSTARDGELATO

ThereisnovariationonrhubarbandcustardIdon’tlove,andthisisprobablyoneoftheeasiesttomake.Youbuysomegoodeggyvanillaicecreamandmakeastovetopcompote—veryquick,andgorgeouspouredwarmovertheicecreamwiththerestchilledinthefridgeandeatenwithyogurtforbreakfast.

1lbrhubarb(untrimmed)¾cupsugar2tablespoonsbest-qualitypurevanillaextractAfewscoopsoficecream(fortwopeople)

1Cuttherhubarbinto¼-inchslices,discardingtheleavesandtoughends.

2Putalloftheingredientsexcepttheicecreamintoasaucepanandbringtoaboil,stirringasthepanheatsuptohelpdissolvethesugar.

3Partiallycoverthepanandsimmerforabout3minutes,thenuncovercompletelyandcookforanothercoupleofminutes,oruntiltherhubarbissoftandmeltingintothepinksyrup,thoughstillkeepingitsshape—just.

4Pourintoapitcherandleavetocoolalittle.

Makesapproximately2cups,whichisenoughforagood6portions,butfeelhappy—please—touseasmuchasyoulike.

BUTTERSCOTCHFRUITFONDUE

Ifeveryou’ve—lazily,guiltily—boughtpeeled,sliced,cubedfruitfromthesupermarketandthenwonderedwhyyoubothered,asyougethometodiscoverthefruitisbrightlyhuedbutdimlyflavored,thisisthesolution.Anything,frankly,dunkedintoabutterscotchsaucetastesgood,andthisisafabulouseverydayorevenpartydessert.

Iownup,thefruitinthepicturedidcomeoutofacellophanepackage,themangoalreadycubed,themelonsliced,butmostlyImakethisforthechildrenusingbananasandpearsIhaveactuallymanagedtopeelandslicemyself.Thestrawberriesyoudon’tevenneedtohull:Theirstalksareusefultolowertheberriesintothemoltenfondue.

Igiveeveryone—herejustthetwoofus—alittlecupoffonduefortheirownindividualdipping.Itdoesmeanyoumakemoresaucethanisneeded,butitgetsaroundthesharedspitandsalivaissue.Oryoucouldmakehalftheamountandpouritoverthemixofcubedpineapple,papaya,andmango.

Eitherway,youdon’twantthebutterscotchfonduetoofiercelyhot,notleastbecauseitwillbetoorunny.Ifyoumakeitbeforeyousitdowntoeataltogether,itshouldbejustaboutperfectbythetimeyoureachdessert.Iamalsoprettykeenonthiscold,spoonedstraightfromthecup.

Youcouldsubstitutedarkcornsyrupforthegoldensyrup,butI’mafraiditdoesn’thavetheviscosityorflavor.SinceyoucannowgetLyle’sGoldenSyrupsenttoyoufromAmazonGourmet,Idon’tfeelbadrecommendingthelessfamiliaringredient.

3tablespoonslightbrownsugar2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar½cupgoldensyrup2tablespoonsbutter½cupheavycreamsplashofpurevanillaextractapprox.12ozcutfruit

1Meltthesugars,syrup,andbutterinasaucepanandboilfor5minutes.

2Addthecreamandvanilla,stirringtogether,andthentakeofftheheat.

3Dividethesaucebetweentwocupsorsmallbowls,andthenarrangethefruitontwosaucersoronaplate,asyouseefit.

Serves2

Therearefewthingssolikelytoputastrainontotheworkingdayasknowingyou’vegotpeoplecomingoverforsupperafewminutesafteryou’vewalkedthroughthefrontdoor,letalonetakenyourcoatoff.Idon’twishtosoundnegative.Ido,it’strue,haveatendencytowardslighthermit-likecocooning,especiallyinthewinter,butIalsolovetobeinaroomfulloffriendsintheevening.AndifIthinkaboutit,mostofthetimewhenIdohavepeopleoverforsupper,itisduringtheweek.Weekendscangetsotakenoverbymychildren’ssociallife,therereallyisn’tanytimeformyown.Butthatsuitsme.Oneofthegoodthingsaboutamidweeksupperpartyisthatnooneexpectsthegrandtreatment.AndIalways,alwayspreferthemoodtobeinformal.

Somakelifeeasieronyourselfbydispensingwithastarter.IknowI’vesaidthisbefore,butitbearsrepetition.It’snotjustthatyoudon’twanttheextracooking,butneitherdoyouwantanextracourse’sworthofwashingup.AndIdon’tthinkyouwantdinnertobeanoverlongaffair.Itmaynotsoundhospitable,butwhowantsareallylatenightinthemiddleoftheworkingweek?

Onlyhaveastarterifitmakeslifeeasierforyou.Sometimesitcanhelptohavesomefoodforpeopletopickatoveradrinkortwo:Itmeansyoucangetonwithgettingsuppertogethercalmly,andkeepseveryonehappy.Ialsothinksometimesitmakessensetobalancetheamountoffoodyouhavetoputonthetable.So,bygivingafirstcourse,maybeyoucanprovidejustasaladwiththemaincourse,andnotpotatoestoo—thatsortofthing.SometimesIuseabitofstarteractiontomakemefeellessguiltyaboutgivingeveryoneroastchickenagain.Andyoudon’tactuallyhavetocookthestarter;afewbitsandpiecesthrowntogetherisallyouneed—liketheshrimpandharissadiporcrabsaladthatfollow,forobviousexample.

Andyoucantakethelackofeffortfurther,withoutfeelingbadaboutitatall.Abitofjudicious—andpleasurableifyou’relucky—shoppingandyoudon’thavetodoathing.Ibuysomesalami,uncutandstillinsausageform,aswellassomeslicedandarrangethemwithaknifeortwoonawoodenboard.Parmesanboughtinawedgeandthencutintocrumblyhunksisanotherlabor-lightwayofgoingaboutfeedingpeoplewhentheyarrive.Slighterhigheruptheeffortscale,butonlyatinybit,istobuysomefrozenedamamebeansfromastorethatdealsinJapanesefoodstuffs.Thesearesoybeansinthepod,whichyouboilforaboutfiveminutesfromfrozenandthensprinklelavishlyifunfashionablywithrocksaltbeforebeingpodded,theirjadebeanspoppedintothemouth,whilestill

saltbeforebeingpodded,theirjadebeanspoppedintothemouth,whilestillwarm.

Buyatubofhummus,mixitwithhalfitsvolumeofGreekyogurt,stirinalittlegroundcuminandgratedlemonzest,drizzlewitholiveoilandscatterwithpomegranateseeds,andservewithbreadsticksorslicedpita.Orbuyagoodtuboflemony(preferablyorganic)mayonnaiseandgrateinalittlegarlicandsetanarrayofrawvegetablesonthetabletobedippedintoit.Ifyoucan’tfacechoppingvegetables,thengoheavyonsugarsnapsinstead.

Aboveall,berelaxed.Iknowit’salwaysanirritatinginjunction,butthisshouldbeasupperwithfriends,aroundatable,withyouabletoenjoythem.Foodalwayshelps,butevenadinnergonewrongcanbeagreatevening.Andonceyouacceptthatmistakesinthekitchendon’tneedtomatter,you’relesslikelytomaketheminthefirstplace.Anyway,noneoftherecipesthatfollowshouldgiveeitherthenoviceorthemerelytiredanycauseforculinary,orother,concern.

SHRIMPWITHMARYAMZAIRASAUCE

OK,sothisistheidea:SauceMarieRosegoesMoroccan.Insteadoftheusualtomatoketchup(well,behonest)Idollopinsomegoodstore-boughtharissa.Itworkswonderfully,andthehoneymakesupforthesugaryoulackbygivinguptheHeinz.Becarefulwhenyoubuyharissathough,asnotonlydoesitvaryenormouslyinstrengthbutalsosomejarsthatbearthenamearenotreallyharissabutsomepastemaderedwithbeetrootandcarrot.Checkthebackofthejarforingredients.Iusedagorgeouslymildharissahere,aroseharissa,thatIfindpoeticallydesirable.Butstartwithasmallamountoftheharissayou’vegotbeforeworkinguptotheamountIhavestipulatedbelow.

Iloveshrimpwiththeirshellsstillon;abitofDIYatthetablealwaysseemstohelptheatmosphere.Butifyouhatemessandcan’tbearthesightofseeingpeopledroppingshellsallovertheplaceandhaven’tgottimefortreatment,thensimplybuypeeledshrimpinstead.

1cupgoodstore-bought,preferablyorganic,mayonnaise¼cupharissa1teaspoonlimejuice1teaspoonhoney1lbcookedshell-oncookedshrimp

1Mixtogetherallthesauceingredients,andputintoabowlfordipping.

2Arrangetheshrimponaplateforpeopletopluck,peel,anddipintothesauce,makingsureyouhaveenoughinthewayofplatesorsaucersdottedabouttheplacefordetritus.

Serves4–6

CRABANDAVOCADOSALADWITHJAPANESEDRESSING

Thisisanotheroneofthosesaladsthatmyhusbanddoesn’tnoticeisasaladandthatweeatfairlyoftenathome.NowthatIcanfindgood,freshtubsofcrabmeatatthesupermarketIcanreallyrelyonthisasatableandtummyfillerwhenIdon’thavemuchtimeforslow,store-by-specialty-storeshopping.Thequantitiesbelowprovidegenerousamountsforfourpeople,sothisisthesortofstarterthatyoucanusetosaveyoucomingupwithenormousamountslateronintheevening.Ioftenhalveitforaquicksupperforthetwoofusathome,orwhenit’smeandagirlfriendandachilledbottleofrosé.

2tablespoonsmirin1tablespoonricevinegar½teaspoonwasabipaste½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoonregularsaltfewdropssesameoil1longredchilepepper,deseededandfinelychopped1¼cupscookedcrabmeatapprox.1teaspoonlimejuice5cupsarugulaorothertender,darkgreensaladleaves1ripeavocado

1–2teaspoonschoppedchives

1Inabowlthatwillholdthecrabmeatlater,whisktogetherthemirin,ricevinegar,wasabi,salt,andsesameoil.Thenremovearound4teaspoonstoanotherbowllargeenoughforthesaladlater.

2Tothefirst,moregenerousamountofdressingaddthefinelychoppedchileandthenthecrabmeat,andforkthroughtomixthoroughly.

3Tothesmallamountofdressingintheotherbowl,addthelimejuiceandthenthesaladleavesandtosswelltomixbeforearrangingonfourplates.

4Spoonaquarterofthecrabmixtureintoaregularmetalkitchen⅓-cupmeasure,squishingdowntogetitallin,thentakeitovertoasalad-linedplateandunmoldinthecenterofit.Justturnover,tap,andthecrabmeatshouldfallout.Continuewiththeremainingthreequartersofthecrabmeatandthethreeotherplates.

5Usingaroundedhalfteaspoonmeasure,scoopoutcurlsorhumpsofavocadoanddotaroundontopofthesaladybits.Spritzwithalittlelimejuice.

6Sprinklethechoppedchivesoverthefourmoundsofcrabandtaketheplatestothetable.

Serves4asastarter

SAKESEABASSANDWILTEDGREENS

Thisisverycalm,veryplain,verygood.It’swhatImakeforpeopleondietsorwhodon’tlikeanythingtoovigorousorwhenIfeelinneedofaZenmoment.Iamawarethatdoesn’tmakeitsoundveryexciting,butfreshfishdoesn’tneedanythingtomakeitexciting,itjustneedstobeallowedtobetasted.Andthisisthesortofelegant,pared-downfoodthat’shardtogetinarestaurant.Ifyouwanttohavepotatoeswith,thensteamsome(thiswilltakelongerthanthefish,butrequiresnoeffort).

Easierthough,toprovidealittlesomethingfirstandmakeeveryonehappywiththeconfidentrestraintofjustfabulousfishandsomeflavorsomewiltedgreens.

2seabass,approx.2lb4scallions6tablespoonssake2tablespoonssoysauce1teaspoongratedfreshginger

1Preheattheovento400°F.Layeachseabassonalargepieceoffoil,andbringupthesidesreadytomakeaparcel.

2Slicethescallionsinhalflengthwiseandplace4piecesintothecavityofeachfish.

3Sprinkle3tablespoonsofsakeintoeachparcel,1tablespoonofsoy,andabouthalfateaspoonofthegratedgingerintoeach.

4Wraptheparcelslooselybutsealedfirmly,andcookonabakingsheetforabout25minutes.

5Openthecookedfishparcels,peelawaytheskinfromthetopofeachfish,andfilletthetoplayeroffish.

6Turnthefishover,repeatthesameprocess,andthenspoonoveranyjuicesfromtheparcelontothefilletedseabassandservewiththewiltedgreens.

Serves4–6

WILTEDGREENS

Iuseanythingonhand:bokchoytornupsmall,snowpeas,spinach,assortedbitsfromthebottomofthevegetabledrawerandsaladcompartment.ThisisthebestwayI’vefoundofusingupbagsandbitsofdesignerleavesthatarepasttheirbest—notbad,butnolongerbeautifulenoughtobeservedassalad.

2tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil2anchovyfillets12cupsassortedgreenvegetables

1Heattheoilandanchoviesinawokorlargepanandstiruntiltheanchoviesseemtostartmeltingintotheoil.

2Tossinyourgreenvegandstir-fryoverfairlyhighheat—afewminutesatthemost—untileverythinghaswilted.

Serves4

BRANDIED-BACONYCHICKEN

I’venevermadeasecretofmyloveandrespectforaplain,old-fashioned,unreconstructedroastchicken.WhywouldI?Butsometimesit’sgoodtoplay,andthebrandyandbaconherebringflavor(andhelpthebirdbronzeupbeautifully)butnotdistraction.It’sstillwhatitis.

Alongside,Iservethepotatoandmushroomgratinthatfollowsandalemony,crunchygreensalad,etc’esttout.Andifyouwanttodispensewiththepotatoelementaltogether,Isuggestthisalmosteffort-freesubstitution:simplydraintwocansofpuylentils,andwhenthechickenisroasted,andstandingonacarvingtray,warmupthelentilsinthehotchickenyjuicesinthetinandserveastheyare,sprinkledwithparsleyifyoufeelsoinclined.

Thisisnotspeedy-speedyinactualcookingtimebutit’sfantasticallyhelpfulwhenyouhavepeopleforsuppersinceallitrequiresisabout10minutesprep,andthenyoucansetthetable,haveadrink,andputonlipstickwhileeverythingcookshappilybyitselfinahotoven.

1chickenapprox.2½–3lbs2stripsbacon¼cupbrandy

1Heattheovento425°F.

2Inasmallskilletcookthebaconovermediumheatuntilit’scrispandthepanfullofgorgeousbaconyfat,about4minutes.

3Takethepanofftheheat,thebaconoutofthepanandstraightintothecavityofthechicken,sittingthechickeninaroastingpanasyoudoso,breastsideup.

4Pourthebrandyintothestill-hotfryingpanwiththebaconfatandletbubbleforaminutethenpouritoverthechicken.

5Roastfor45minutes,makingsurethejuicesrunclearbetweenlegandbody.

Letrest10minutesbeforecarving.

Serves4

POTATOANDMUSHROOMGRATIN

Therearefewsightsasupliftinginthekitchenasagolden,bubblinggratincomingoutoftheoven,andthisistheperfectaccompanimenttothechicken,soeveryone’shappy.It’sstrangetobesayingthis,butoneofthereasonsIlovethisparticulargratinisthatitisn’ttoocreamyandrich.Andtherelativethinnessofthewineandmilkthepotatoesandmushroomsarecookedin—relativetoheavycream,thatis—iswhatallowsyoutocookthisinsuchahotovenandsoquickly.

ThefirsttwotimesIcookedthis,Ipeeledthepotatoes;nowIdon’tbother.Itisn’tnecessary(andIbuybakingpotatoesthatcomeallcleanandshiny)andevenifpeelingthemdoesn’treallytakelong,it’sagoodpsychologicalsteptoremove:thisisnowaquicksliceandchop,inapanandthencetotheoven.Itfeelseasy—butthenitmaybebecauseitiseasy.

3average-sized/1½lbsbakingpotatoes,thinlysliced1½cupsmilk3tablespoonswhitewinesaltandpeppertotaste2tablespoonsbutter2teaspoonsgarlic-infusedoil8ozcreminimushrooms,finelyslicedtomake4cups

1Heattheovento425°Fandbutterashallowbakingdishorgratin.

2Bringtheslicedpotatoes,milk,wine,salt,andpeppertoaboilinasaucepan,stirringoccasionally,andleaveatasimmerwhileyougetonwiththemushrooms.

3Meltthebutterandgarlicoilinaskilletovermedium-highheat.Addthemushroomsandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilsoftened,about3minutes.

4Pourthemushroomsandtheirgarlicky,butteryjuicesintothepanofpotatoes,stirtomix,andpourstraightintothegratindish.Bakefor45minutesalongsidethechickenoruntilpipinghot,andcrispontop.

Serves4

STEAKSLICEWITHLEMONANDTHYME

Thisrecipe,orratherthemethod,wassuggestedtomebymyagentEdVictor,andsoisknownfamiliarlyasEd’sTenderRump.Themethodisthis:Insteadofmarinatingthemeatbeforecooking,youmarinateitafter—anditreallydoeskeepitextraordinarilytender.Pleasefeelfreetoplayaroundwiththeherbs;IratherthinkEdhimselfusesoreganoratherthanthethymeIlove.

Ilovethiswithbroccolirabeorthoseleggytenderstembroccoli.Acoupleofpackages,lightlycookedandthendrainedandsetinthemarinadeafterthebeef’soutandsliced,isthemostheavenlyaccompaniment.AndIcan’ttellyouhowgoodbothsteakandbroccolirabearecoldlater.

1rumpsteak1inchthickweighingapprox.1¼lbs5stalksthymetogive1tablespoonstrippedleaves2clovesgarlic,bruised

⅓cupextravirginoliveoilzestandjuiceof½lemon1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesaltgoodgrindingoffreshpepper

1Cutawaythefatfromaroundtheedgeofthesteakwhileyouheatagriddleorpan.

2Brushthesteakwithalittleoliveorvegetableoiltopreventitfromstickingtothegriddleorpan,andthencookfor3minutesasideplus1minuteeachsideturnedagain(thisgivesyouprettygriddlemarks)fordesirablyraremeat;thelemonintheposthocmarinade“cooks”italittlemore.

3Whilethesteakiscooking,placethethymeleaves,garlic,oil,lemonzest,juice,salt,andpepperinawideshallowdish.

4Oncethesteakiscooked,placeitinthedishofmarinadefor4minutesaside,beforeremovingittoaboardandslicingthinlyonthediagonal.

Serves4

SEAREDSALMONWITHSINGAPORENOODLES

Iknowthelistofingredientsislong,butalotofthisisstuffthatwillhelpyougenerallyifit’spartofyourcupboardstash.Ifyoudon’twanttogoinforspecialtyshoppingatall(Iloveit,andnowcanindulgemyselfonline,too)thenreplacethetinydriedshrimpwithabout½cupofsmallfrozen(thoughthawthemfirst)shrimp.SherrycouldbeusedinsteadoftheChinesecookingwine,thoughIshouldtellyouthatIgetthisverystraightforwardlyfrommylocalsupermarket.

FORTHESALMON:2teaspoonsmediumMadrascurrypowder1teaspoonsugar¼teaspoontablesalt4approx.6–8-ozsalmonfillets1tablespoongarlic-infusedoil

1Mixthecurrypowder,sugar,andsaltinawide,shallowdishanddredgethesalmoninthis,turningthepiecesalloverintherub.

2Heatapanwiththeoilandcookthefilletsonhighheatforabout2–3minutesaside,searingthesidesofthefilletstooiftheyareverythick.

Serves4

FORTHENOODLES:8ozvermicelliricenoodles½cupdriedshrimp½cupChinesecookingwine1tablespoongarlic-infusedoil2cupsfinelyslicednapacabbage1cupbabywholecorn,slicedintothinrounds2scallions,finelysliced

2teaspoonsmediumMadrascurrypowder1teaspoonmincedfreshginger1cupchickenstock(fromconcentrateorbouilloncubes)3tablespoonssoysauce

2cupsbeansprouts¼cupchoppedfreshcilantro

1Putthericenoodlesintoabowlandcoverwithboilingwater.Leavethemtosoakfor4minutesandthendrainthem.

2Soakthedriedshrimpinthewine,thenheattheoilinawokandfrythe

lettuce,babycorn,andscallionsforafewminutes.

3Addthecurrypowderandmincedgingertothewok,andthenthestockandsoy.Pourintheshrimpwiththeirwineandthedrained,soakednoodles,tossingandshakingeverythingalltogetherinthewok.

4Finallystirinthebeansproutsandgiveafinaltossbeforeturningoutintoabowlandsprinklingthecilantroover.

Serves4

LAYEREDSALADWITHROASTQUAIL

Thisstartedofflifeinmykitchenasalayeredsaladwithcoldchickeninthemix,butIfeltthatthejuicycrunchinessofthesalad,itsglorious,brightsimplicitydidn’tneedtobefleshedout.Roastquailseemedtometobeinjusttherightregister,andwhat’smoreridiculouslyeasytodealwith.Ifyouwant,youcancookthemalittleahead,sincethey’regoodwarmratherthanhot.Andifthereissaladandquailleftover,thentakethemeatoffthelittlebirdsandtossitinthesaladthenextday.Servewithapileof,preferablywarm,flatbreadsandquiteafewfingerbowls.

juiceof1lemon1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt⅓cupoliveoil2teaspoonshoney½teaspoondriedmint;driedthymeisalsogood12quailAbout1lbromainelettuce,slicedinto½-inchshredstomake5cups1bunch/1cupradishes,trimmedandslicedintofinerounds½cucumber,partlypeeledtogiveastripyeffectandcutinto½-inchchunks1redbellpepper,deseededandcutinto½-inchchunksseedsfromhalfapomegranate(⅓cupseeds)2tablespoonschoppedfreshmintleaves

1Preheattheovento425°F.Putthelemonjuiceandsaltintoajar,addtheoil,honey,anddriedmint,andthenputonthelidandshakelikemad.

2Arrangethequailinprobablyacoupleofroastingpans,andpouroverhalfthejarofdressing,bastingthebabybirdswellbeforetheygointheoven.

3Roastthequailfor30minutes,andwhilethey’recookinggetonwiththesalad.

4Layerthesaladideallyintoastraight-sidedglassbowl,drizzlingalittleoftheremaininghalfjarofdressingfromthequailoneachlayerasfollows:romaine,radishslices,cucumberchunks,redpepper,morelettuce,andthenpomegranateseedswiththechoppedmintsprinkledontop.

Serves6–8

ETONMESS

ThereisnovariationofthisdessertIdon’tlike,andImusthavemadeseveralinmytime.Thisoneusesbottled,properfreshpomegranatejuicetoencouragethestrawberriestooozeouttheirfragrantsummeryjuices.Ifyou’remakingthiswithout-of-seasonstrawberries,thenyoustandachanceofusingfreshlysqueezedpomegranatejuice,inwhichcase,sprinklesomeseedsontopofthisvoluptuousmoundofmeringueandberry-spikedcream.

4cupsstrawberries2teaspoonsvanillaorgranulatedsugar2teaspoonspomegranatejuice2cupswhippingcream

4smallpackagedmeringuenests

1Hullandchopthestrawberries.Putintoabowl,addthesugarandpomegranatejuice,andleavetomaceratewhileyouwhipthecream.

2Whipthecreaminalargebowluntilthickbutstillsoft.Roughlycrumblein4ofthemeringuenests—youwillneedchunksfortextureaswellasalittlefinedust.

3Takeoutabouthalfacupfulofthechoppedstrawberries,andfoldthemeringuedcreamandtherestofthefruitmixturetogether.

4Arrangeon4servingplatesorglassesorinamound,andtopeachonewithsomeoftheremainingmaceratedstrawberries.

Serves4

CARIBBEANCREAMS

Thisisareworkingofmygrandmother’sBarbadoscreams:We’regoingthewayofthecoconutandthebanana.It’sscarcelyafancydessert,butsometimesIthinkitcanbesweetlycomfortingtohavesomethingalittlehomespun,andalmostfromthenursery.Thisisnotthatfarfromthatoldfavorite,bananasmashedwithcreamandbrownsugar.Hardtobeat,tobesure,butthecoconutyogurtandrumcertainlyaddalittlesomething.

Youneedtomakethesethemorning(ordaybefore,ifthatfeelseasier)oftheeveningyouwanttoeatthem,buttheytakenomorethan5minutestoprepare.Sotheyareveryquicktomakeandyoueasetheburdenonthatshorttimeafteryougetbackfromworkintheevening.

¾cupcoconutyogurt¾cupheavycream1tablespooncoconutrum,suchasMalibu(optional)1banana2tablespoonsdarkbrownsugar

1Stirtogethertheyogurtandcreamwiththerum,ifyou’reusingit,andwhiskuntilslightlythickened.

2Slicethebananaandthendividetheslicesbetween4x½cupramekinstoformalayeratthebottomofeachone.

3Spooninthethickenedyogurtandcreammixture,fillingtheramekinsequally.

4Sprinkleabout1½teaspoonsofsugarovereachramekin,andthenwraptheminplasticwrapandplaceinthefridgeovernightorfortheday.

Serves4

FLOURLESSCHOCOLATEBROWNIES

Howevermuchpeoplehaveeatenthereisalways,I’venoticed,roomforabrownie.Thisisadifferentkindofabrownie,mostdefinitelyforparty-dessert,melting,fudgy,anddamplyrich.Icompoundthesequalitiesbyservingitwithicecreamanddarkchocolatesaucethatfollowsbutthereisnoneed.Needisnotreallywhatwe’retalkingabouthere,though,isit?

8ozsemisweetchocolate1cup(2sticks)butter1cupsugar2teaspoonsvanillaextract3eggs,beaten1½cupsgroundalmonds1cupchoppedwalnuts

1Preheattheovento325°F.Meltthechocolateandbuttergentlyoverlowheatinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.

2Addthesugarandvanillatothepanofftheheat,andletitcoolalittle.

3Beattheeggsintothepanwiththegroundalmondsandwalnutpieces.Turnintoa9-inchsquarebakingpanor,mostsensibly,useafoilone.

4Bakefor25–30minutes,bywhichtimethetopwillhavesetbutthemixturewillstillbegooey.Oncecooler,cutcarefully,fourdown,fouracross,into16squidgy-belliedsquares.

Makes16squares

HOTCHOCOLATESAUCE

3ozdarkchocolate,70%cocoasolids½cupheavycream2teaspoonsinstantespressopowderdissolvedin2tablespoonswater1tablespoongoldensyrup

1Breakupthechocolateandputintoaheavy-basedsaucepan.

2Addtheremainingingredients,thenplacethepanoveragentleheatandleteverythingmelttogether.

3Onceeverythinghasmelted,stirwell,takeofftheheat,andpourintoajugtoserve.

Makesenoughtodrizzleover16browniesquares

BLACKBERRYCRISP

Anothergloriousnursery-reworking,andnonetheworseforthat.Ifeelthatintheinterestsoffairtrading,IshouldprobablynamethisBlackberrySoggy,sincewhatissodelishaboutitisitsbutter-fudgytopping,butsince“crisp”iswhatthesekindsofnon-crumblepiesareknownas,Isticktothat.

It’ssimplicityitselftomake,andthedaughterofafriendofmine,whohadnever,evermadeadessertorbakedanythingbefore,hashadarunawaysuccesswithitthatthreatenstogo,delightfully,toherhead.Butadessertthisgoodquitereasonablycausesevangelicalfervor.Itseaseofassemblyisabonus.

Tokeepthecostsdown,youcouldsubstitutehalftheblackberrieswithchoppedpears,butanywayregardthisasanopenblueprintanduseanyfruityoufeellikeorisonhand.

½cup(1stick)plus1tablespoonbutter¾cuprolledoats½cupflour½cuplightbrownsugar½cupflakedalmonds¼cupsunflowerkernels

¼cupsunflowerkernels1teaspoongroundcinnamon4cupsblackberries¼cupvanillaorgranulatedsugar2teaspoonscornstarch

1Preheattheovento400°F.Meltthebutterandputtoonesideforamo.

2Combinetheoats,flour,brownsugar,almonds,kernels,andcinnamoninabowl.

3Tiptheblackberriesintoawideshallowbakingdish(Iusedoneherewitha3-cupcapacity),sprinkleoverthevanillasugarandcornstarch,andtumbleabouttomix.

4Stirthemeltedbutterintothecrisptoppingandspoonontopoftheblackberriestocoverbutnotabsolutelythoroughly.

5Bakefor25minutesandservewithicecreamorheavycream.

Serves4–6

CHOCOLATEMINTCOOKIES

Thisismyversionofafter-dinnermints:Dispensewithdessertandbringoutaplateofminty-breathedchocolatecookieswithcoffeeandtisanesinstead.

Thesedon’ttakelongtomakeupandbake,andIcan’ttellyouhowlovelyitistobeabletoopenthedoortopeoplewiththesmelloftheirbakingoozingwelcominglyoutintheeveningair.

¾cuplightbrownsugar½cup(1stick)softbutter1egg1teaspoonvanillaextract1cupflour⅓cupcocoa½teaspoonbakingpowder1cupbittersweetchocolatechips

GLAZE:½cuppowderedsugar2tablespoonsboilingwater1tablespoonunsweetenedcocoa,sifted¼teaspoonpeppermintflavoring

1Preheattheovento350°F.

2Creamthesugarandbutter(Iuseafreestandingmixerforease),thenbeatintheeggandvanilla.

3Mixtheflour,cocoa,andbakingpowderinabowl,andgraduallybeatintothecreamedmixture.Finally,foldinthechips.

4Usingaroundedtablespoonmeasure,spoonoutscoopsofcookiedoughandplaceonbakingsheetslinedwithbakingparchmentorSilpat,leavingalittlespaceinbetweeneachone.

5Bakefor12minutesandthenletthemsitonthebakingsheetforacoupleofminutesbeforemovingthemtoacoolingrack,withsomenewspaperonthesurfaceunderneath.

6Puttheglazeingredientsintoasaucepanandheatuntilcombinedtogether.Let

coolcompletelybeforeusing.

7Usingateaspoon,zigzagtheglazeovereachcoolingcookie.

Makes24

Escoffierfamouslysaidthatlanostalgie,orhomesickness,wassimplyalongingforthefoodofone’schildhood.AsaFrenchmanlivinginLondon,hehadreasontobemournfulperhaps,butthoseofuswholiveinthefood-fashion-obsessedworldhavecauseforwistfulnessevenifwehaven’ttransplantedourselves.Somuchofwhatweatewhenyoung,orwhatourparentsandgrandparentsatewhenyoung,hasdisappeared.

IamnotsurequitewhetherweshunthefoodofourpastasirrelevantandoutmodedbecausewearelessrootedinourculinarytraditionsthantheContinentalEuropeans,orbecause,havingabsorbedasenseofourgastro-inferiorityanddesperatetoshowournewcoolth,wearetooafflictedwithgawkyirony.Isuspectbothconditionsarelinked.ItisfranklyinconceivablethatanyoneinFrancewouldfeelthatceleriacrémouladewereembarrassinglyantiqueoranItaliandisdainspaghettiallacarbonaraforbeingold-fashioned.TheFrench,theItalianslovetheirfoodpreciselybecauseit’sold-fashioned,becauseitisthefoodtheirgrandparentsate,andtheyknowtheirgrandchildrenwill.

Inotherwords,thereisnosuchthing,tothecookortheeater,asRetro.AndyethereIam,lamentingourshortcomingswhilealmostboastingthatI,too,possessthembyvirtue—vice?—ofthisverychapter.Sobeit.Therearetoomanyreasonsforourbeingaswearetobeabletodisentangleordisinternow.Besides,IknowwhatImeanbyRetro,andIknowyoudo,too.

JustasIthinkit’spossibletofeelaninheritednostalgiaforthemusicone’sparentslistenedto,soIconcurthatmanyoftherecipesheremoreproperlybelongtotheeraofanearliergenerationthanmine.Ilovetheidea—andammadaboutthetaste—ofCrepesSuzetteandPineappleUpside-downCake,forexample,butIwasscarcelybroughtuponthem.Evenworse,IfeelthatIamnostalgicforaperiodofnostalgia.AllthecocktailsIdrankintheeightieswerethemselvesathrowback,andself-consciouslyso:ItwasArtDecoonlywithouttheelegance.Yes,Ididpossesssomeblackmartiniglasses—andyes,Ihaveboughtsomerecently,allthebettertofillwithWhiteLady(onepartlemonjuicetotwopartsCointreauandfourpartsgin)andifthatsoundslikeacampfolly,Ishoulddeclarethatitonlylookslikeajoke.

AndIsupposethat’sthething:Theaffectationofamusement,theattitudeofwhimsicalirony,theyarejustsurfacesilliness.Therealthingis,thatthefoodweremember,orrememberourparentsremembering,isfoodwewanttoeat.There

remember,orrememberourparentsremembering,isfoodwewanttoeat.Thereisn’tonerecipethatfollowsherethatIdon’trelishandpurelyongustatoryterms.ForwhatIlackinsentimentality,Imorethanmakeupforingreed.

AVOCADOCRAYFISHCOCKTAIL

Ieatanenormousamountofavocados.Somepeoplearerepelledbytheirsoft-clayrichness;Iamdrawntoit.AndIremember,too,whenIwasreallyquiteyoung,justinmyteens,readingthatthedogsthatlivedinavocadoorchardsalwayshadshiny,glossycoatsbecauseofallthewindfallfruittheysnaffledupdaily.Thatimagehasstuckwithme,anditissuchanappealingone.IalwayshaveitinmindasIpreparemyselfanavocado,whichisoften.

Andwhen,theotherday,Ifoundmyselfbuyingapairofold-fashionedavocadodishes,IknewIhadtobealittlemorebackward-lookinginmystyleofeating(mostoften,Ijustsprinklewithcoarsesaltandspritzwithlime),sothisismyversionontheavocadoshrimpcocktailofyore.Forme,it’sthewayforward.

1tomato2teaspoonssherryvinegar1teaspoonextravirginoliveoil½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoontablesalt½cupcooked,peeledcrayfishtails1ripeavocado1teaspoonchoppedfreshcilantro

1Halvethetomato,scoopoutanddiscardtheseeds,andchopwhat’sleftwell,droppingthepiecesintoabowlwiththesherryvinegar,oliveoil,andsalt.Whisktomakeadressing.

2Justbeforeyouwanttoeat,stirthecrayfishtailsintothedressing.

3Halvetheavocado,removethepit,spoonthecrayfish-tomatomixturemoundinglyintothehollowswherethepitwent,andsprinklewiththecilantro.

Serves2

SMOKEDTROUTPÂTÉ

Smokedfishwasanabsolutestapleofmychildhood—Iusedtohavesmokedmackerelwithhorseradishinmylunchbox—andIfeelifI’vegotsomeformofsmokedfishinthefridge,thereisalwaysgoingtobe,instantly,somethingtoeat.Pepperandlemon,that’sallyouneedforit.Andit’sagifttothecookinahurry,too:Thispâtétakesthemerestmomenttomakeandyetitisawonderfulstarttoamealor,indeed,awholemealinitself.Idon’tevenneedasaladwithit:I’mhappywithtoast,crustybread,ormaybeevensomegoodboughtEnglishmuffinsorcheesescones,alongwithafewcornichonsandanyothertangypickle.

Thisdoesn’tmakeverymuch,butit’sfillingandalso—whichisobviouslyhowIlikeit—fullofpep.Ifyouwantsomethingalittlemilder,withlessboisterousheat,thenaddameresprinkleofcayenne.

2smokedtroutfillets,about4oztotal¼cupcreamcheese2tablespoonslemonjuice2tablespoonsoliveoil1tablespoonhorseradishsauce¼teaspooncayennepepper

1Putalloftheaboveingredientsintoablenderorfoodprocessorandblitzuntilsmoothandpâté-like.

2Spatchintoabowl—Iuseasmallterra-cottadishofabout4½inchesdiameter—andcoverwithplasticwrapbeforechillinginthefridge.

Serves4asastarter

CHEF’SSALAD

Iamnochef—anddon’tneedanyoneelsetopointthatout—soperhapsthisshouldmorecorrectlybecalledCook’sSalad.Eitherway,itisanirresistiblemix,andonethattastessomuchbetterinthemouththanitreadsonthepage.

Iamunapologeticaboutcelebratingthemuch-malignediceberglettuce,andfeelperfectlyequableaboutyourusingtheready-tornbitsoflettuceinbags.IshouldownupthatIkeepapackageofready-gratedEmmentalinthefridge,whichIgenerallyuseinthis.Andthereissomethingaboutcannedsweetcornthatisinstantlycomforting,especiallywiththecool,softchunksofavocado.Itis,indeed,thegloriousmixoftexturesthatmakesthissaladsuchaknockout.Howcoulditeverhavefallenfromfavor?

1headiceberglettuce2cupscubedham(½-inchcubes)1cupdrainedcannedsweetcorn1cupgratedEmmentalcheese

1ripeavocado,peeled,pitted,anddiced

FORTHEDRESSING:½teaspoonDijonmustard1tablespooncabernetsauvignonvinegar½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoontablesalt3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil

1Teartheiceberglettuceintopiecesintoalargebowl.

2Tossintheham,drainedsweetcorn,gratedEmmental,andavocadochunks.

3Whisktogetherthedressingingredientsinaseparatebowl,andthenpouroverthesaladbeforetossingeverythingtogether.

Serves6asastarteror2–4asasupperorlunchdish

OUEFSENCOCOTTE

MymotherusedtobakeeggsforSundaysupper,mostweeks,whenIwasachild—andIhaven’teatenthemsince.Orthatwasuntilrecently,whenIfeltanurgentandgreedyneedtoresurrectthem.Mymotherusedtocooktheminaprettylowovenfor19minutes,and19minutesexactly;sincethisis“express,”Ibakemineinamoderateovenforaquarterofanhour—andlusciouslyperfecttheyaretoo.

TheonlyotherchangeIhavemadeisanextravagantaddition:Iaddadroportwoofwhitetruffleoilontopofthecream,ontopoftheegg.Otherflavoradditions—alittlechoppedham,dicedcookedmushrooms,herbs,someslicedartichokeheart—shouldgointhebase,beforeyoucrackintheegg.

Thisisaverycomfortingandyetluxuriousstarter,whichhelpsyousomewhat,inthatyoucouldgivepeoplethisfollowedbysomeplainchickenandagreensaladandtheywouldconsidertheyhadfeastedlikeoligarchs.

Iamhappytospoonthecreamyeggstraightoutofitsramekindishbutsomethickslabsoftoastedsourdoughorgoodwheatbread,slicedintochunkyfingers,arederigueurasatablesideaccompaniment.Ifyoufeellikepushingtheboatout,considersupplyingsteamedasparagusspearstoo.

Butterforgreasing6fabulousorganiceggs1½tablespoonskoshersalt6tablespoonsheavycream1½tablespoonswhitetruffleoil

1Preheattheovento375°Fandputafullkettleofwateron.

2Dipapastrybrushinasoftstickofbutterandgrease6ramekinsofabout½cup(4oz)capacityeach,puttingthemintoanovenproofpanordishasyougo.

3Crackaneggintoeachramekin,followedby¼teaspoonsalt,1tablespoonofcream,andfinally¼teaspoonofthewhitetruffleoil.

4Pourboilingwaterintothepantocomeabouthalfwayuponeachramekin,putintheoven,andbakefor15minutes.Serveimmediately.

Serves6

MOUCLADE

Forsomereason,thislesser-knowncousinofmoulesmarinierehasfallenfromfavor.That’stosay,Ihaven’tseenitonamenuoreatenitanywhereoutsideofmykitchenforalongtime.Andyetit’ssogood,withitscreamy,mildlycurriedsauce.

Thisisverymuchaquickversion:Iuseready-washed,debeardedmussels;Iusescallionsinplaceofchoppedonionorshallot;andIdon’tsieve,strain,reduce,oranyofthat.Itmeansthatthisisslightlysoupierthanthetraditionalversion,butallthebetterforthat.Buyabaguetteortwotomopupthefragrant,creamyjuicesandconsideryourselfamongthetrulyblessed.

4½lbsmussels4babyleeksorscallions,finelysliced2clovesgarlic,peeledandfinelysliced2cupswhitewineor1cupNoillyPratand1cupwater2teaspoonsmediumMadrascurrypowder½cupheavycream

1Soakthemusselsinsomeclean,coldwaterand—iftheyhaven’tbeendealtwithinthestore—thensortthroughthem,debeardingandknockingoffanybarnacleswiththebackofasmallknife.

2Usingalargepanwithalid,putintheslicedbabyleeksorscallions,garlic,whitewine(orNoillyPratandwater),andcurrypowderandbringtoaboil.

3Tipthemusselsintoacolanderanddiscardanythathaven’tclosed.Tumbletherestintothepan,clamponthelid,andcookonhighheatforabout3minutes.Shakethepanaroundastheyarecooking.

4Whenyouliftthelidthemusselsshouldhaveopened.Discardanythathaven’t.Addthecream,andthenturnintoabowltoserveortakethepanstraighttothetable.Remembertoputoutplatesfortheshells.

Serves4

CHICKENLIVERSALAD

Nowthisisarealblastfromthepastforme.IstartedmoonlightingasarestaurantcriticduringthegreatGastronomicRenaissance,aseveryoneseemedtoheraldit,abouttwentyyearsagowhenIwasaneageryoungthing,oralmost,andtherewasscarcelyarestaurantthatdidn’thaveasaladetièdeofthissortonitsmenu.Generally,thedressingwasmadewithraspberryvinegar,thatwasentirelythevogue,andIhavetriedtopayhomagetothisbyechoingthesour-sweetnessbydeglazingthepanofchickenliverswithmaplesyrupandsherryvinegar.OK,Iknowitsoundsodd—rebarbativeeven—butitisagorgeouspairing:onlyfugitivelysweetbutintenseandsmoky.

Italsohappenstobeaveryquicksupperfortwo,andnotthesortofquicklygot-togethermealthatfeelsdrearilythesame.

2tablespoonsoliveoil10ozchickenlivers8cupsarugula1tablespoonsherryvinegar1tablespoonmaplesyrup1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt

1Heattheoilinaheavy-bottomedskilletandcooktheliversforabout7minutes,turningtheliversaboutinthepanregularlyandsquishingthemasyoudosotohelpthemcookevenly.

2Whiletheyarecooking,arrangethesaladontwoplates.

3Oncetheliversarecooked,theirrawnessinsideturnedtomousseypink,takethepanofftheheatandquicklyaddthevinegarandsyruptothepan.

4Stireverythingabout,thendividethedressedliversbetweentheplateswiththejuicefromthepan.

5Sprinklethesaltoverandservewarm.

Serves2

CHEESEFONDUE

Idon’tsupposethisisevergoingtowinplauditsfromtheWorldHealthOrganization,butacheesefondueissurelythestuffofdreams.Ontheplusside,healthwise,Iloveitbestwithradishes,endive,spearsofradicchioandcarrotsdippedin,butIdon’tknowwhyIamtryingtoengagewiththatparticularargument.Thepointis,itmakesafabuloussupper:filling,gorgeoustoeat,andconducivetogoodatmosphereandevenbetterspirits.

Makeavatofthis,andsupplynothingotherthanfruitafterwardor,atmost,alittlepalate-ticklingsorbet.

1¼lbschoppedorgratedcheese—useamixturesuchasGruyère,Emmental,Brie,andCamembert1¼cupswhitewine

2teaspoonscornstarch3tablespoonsKirsch1clovegarlic,peeledgoodgrindingofpeppergoodgratingofnutmeg

TOSERVEWITH:carrotbatons,trimmedradishes,radicchio,andendivecutintospearsorskinnywedges,cubesoftoastedsourdough,andwhateverelseyouwishtodip

1Putthechoppedorgratedcheeseintothefonduepotwiththewineandheatuntilboilingonthestove,bywhichtimethecheeseshouldhavemelted.

2Turnthepotdowntoasimmer.Slake(whisktogether)thecornstarchwiththeKirschinasmallbowl,andaddtothefonduepotalongwiththegarlicclove.

3Seasonwiththepepperandnutmegandmovethefonduepotontoaflameatthetable.

Serves4

GOUJONSOFSOLEWITHDILLMAYONNAISE

Goujonshavefallenoutoffavoroverthelasttwodecades,butitishardtoworkoutwhy.Thecrunchofthebreadcrumbcasing,thetender,yieldingsoftnessofthewhitefishwithin:thisisafishfingertakentothehighestlevel.Thetraditionalaccompanimentistartarsauce,butmyfavoriteisadillmayonnaise,withperhapssomecornichonstumbledonaplatenearby.

Considertheseafabulouslyquickstarterwhenyou’vegotpeopleoverorarealtreatforamidweeksupperfortwo.Thetrickistoprepareaheadforthat.Imakeupavastbatchoftheseandfreezethem.Then,whenit’sdinnertimeandIdon’tknowwhatI’mgoingtocook,Iheatsomeoilinapanandfryahandfulfromfrozen.Theybarelyneedanextraminute.Iprefertofryinbatchesinasmallsaucepanratherthanfillafryingpanwithlotsofoilandtryandgetthemalldoneatonce.

Ifyoucanfindpanko,theJapaneseseasonedbreadcrumbs,thengetthem:Theycreateanalmostfeatherybutcrunchycasing.

2lemonsolefillets,skinned½cupcornstarchsaltandpepper2eggs1cupbreadcrumbsor2cupspanko1cuppeanutorgrapeseedoilorasneededdependingonthesizeofthepan

1Cutthesolefilletsinhalflengthwise,andthensliceeachfillethalfintoaboutfourlongstripsonthediagonal.Thiswillgiveyou8goujonsfromeachfillet.

2Putthecornstarchintoashallowbowlandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Beattheeggstogetherinanotherbowl,andputthebreadcrumbsorpankointoanadditionalshallowbowl.

3Dipeachgoujonintotheseasonedcornstarch,coatingitwell,thenthebeateneggs,andfinallythebreadcrumbs.

4Laythegoujonsonacoolingrackforawhile,andheattheoilinapan.(Oratthispointyoucanfreezethembetweenlayersofbakingparchmentinan

airtightcontainer.)5Frythegoujonsforabout2minutes,oruntilcrispandgolden.Removetopiecesofpapertowelasyougotoremoveexcessoil.

Makes16,enoughforabout3peopleasamaincourse,5asastarter

DILLMAYONNAISE1cupmayonnaise,preferablyorganic⅓cupfreshdill½–1teaspoonlimejuice,totaste

1Putthemayonnaiseintoabowl,andfinelychopthedill,addingittothemayo.

2Stirinsomelimejuiceandtasteforseasoning.

CREPESSUZETTE

ThisisprobablythequeenofRetrodessertsanddeservedlyso.This,myversion,isaspeeded-upandsimplifiedonebyvirtueofusingstore-boughtcrepes.Butthereisnoneedtofeelthisisacop-out.Forone,theycanbeincrediblygoodbut,morepertinently,bythetimethey’vebeendousedandsoused,nottomentionflamed,theideathatyoucoulddiscerntheiroriginsislaughable.

Ifyouhaveonlyeverthoughtofcrepessuzetteassomeamusingvestigefromanirrelevantculinarycanon,thinkagain.No,justforgetthoughtandcutstraighttocookingthis.

juiceof2orangeszestof1orange¾cup(1½sticks)butter⅓cupsugar8–12crepes⅓cupGrandMarnier,Cointreau,ortriplesec

1Pourtheorangejuiceintoasaucepan,andaddthezest,butterandsugar.Bringtoaboil,andthenturntheheatdowntoasimmer,cookingforafurther10–15minutesuntilthesaucebecomessyrupy.

2Foldthecrepesintoquartersandthenarrangetheminalargepan,oranyflameproofdish,slightlyoverlappinginacircularpattern.

3Pouroverthewarmsyrupandthengentlyheatthecrepesthroughforabout3minutesoverlowheat.

4Warmtheorangeliqueurofyourchoiceintheemptiedbutstillsyrupysaucepan.Whenthecrepesarehotintheorangesauce,pourovertheliqueurandsetlighttothepantoflambéthem.Serveimmediately,spooningcrepesandsauceontoeachplate.

Serves4–6

MANGOSPLIT

EvenbythetimeIwasyoung,abananasplithadbeguntoloseitsglory,butthenotion,fruitcombinedwithicecreamandsauce,isagoodone.

ItakeadvantageofwhattheCoventGardentradersusedtorefertoas“queergear,”i.e.exoticfruit,andreplacetheworld’sfavoritefruit—bananas—withcubedmango.Ratherlazily,Ioftenbuythemangoesthatmygreengrocer,andallsupermarkets,chopforyou.

Incidentally,thisisoneofmychildren’sfavoritedesserts,thoughIleaveouttherumandcoconutforthem.Forme,bothresolutelystayin.IamoftheMoreIsMoreschoolinthisregard.

2tablespoonsshreddedcoconut¼cuppackedlightbrownsugar1tablespoonbutter1tablespoonlimejuice1tablespoondarkrum1piececandiedginger,optional1ripemangoor1tubcubedripemango2scoopsvanillaicecream

2scoopsmangosorbet2cigarcookiesorfanwafers,optional

1Toastthecoconutinadrysmallishskilletuntildarkgolden.Transfertoasmallbowltocool.

2Inasaucepan,meltthesugar,butter,limejuice,andrumandletitcometoaboilandbubblefor2minutes.Turnofftheheatbutleaveonthestove.

3Finelychopthecandiedginger(ifusing)andpeel,thendicethemangointoabout½-inchcubes.

4Placeascoopeachofvanillaicecreamandmangosorbetinto2dessertbowlsorinto2sundaeglasses.

5Tumbleinthemangocubes,thenthestickychoppedgingerintoeachdish,andfinallysprinkleoverthearomaticallytoastedcoconut.

6Spoonoverthestill-warmsyrup;thereisn’tahugeamountperdishbutyoudon’twantitswamped.

7Ifthemoodtakesyou,stickacigarcookieorfanwaferintoeachsundae.

Serves2

CHERRYCHEESECAKE

Thisrecipehasoverturnedalifetime’sprejudice—whichisgood,butunsettling.Ihadalwaysbeenacommittedbelieverthattheonlytruecheesecakewastheproper,bakedcheesecake,butnowI’mnotsosure.Thisimproper,unbakedcheesecake,afeatureonmanya1970sdessertcart,hasentirelywonmeover.It’slight,ithastang,itisrapturouslygood.Thefactthatitisspeedilyeasytomakeismorereasonforgeneralhilarityandjoy.

EveninthespiritofRetro-accuracy,pleasedonotbetemptedtoopenajarofcherrypiefillingoverthecake.IusesomeFrenchcherryconcoctionthatseemstobeprettyuniversallyavailableandhasnoaddedsugar,butanythinglabeled“conserve”asopposedto“jam”shouldbesafe.

And,ifyoufeellikeit,whencherriesareinseason,strewthetopwithacoupleofhandfulsofbeautifulfruit.

1¼cupsgrahamcrackercrumbs6tablespoonssoftbutter2tablespoonsgranualtedsugar10ozcreamcheese

½cuppowderedsugar1teaspoonvanillaextract½teaspoonlemonjuice1cupheavycream110-ozjarSt.DalfourRhapsodiedeFruitsBlackCherrySpreadorcherryconserve

1Mixthegrahamcrackercrumbswiththebutterandsugaruntilthemixturecoheres.

2Pressthismixtureintoan8-inchspringformpan;pressalittleupthesidestoformaslightridge.

3Beattogetherthecreamcheese,sugar,vanilla,andlemonjuiceinabowluntilsmooth.

4Lightlywhipthecream,andthenfolditintothecreamcheesemixture.

5Spoonthecheesecakefillingontopofthegrahamcrackerbaseandsmoothwithaspatula.Putitinthefridgefor3hoursorovernight.

6Whenyouarereadytoservethecheesecake,unmolditbyremovingthesidesofthespringformpanandspreadtheblackcherriesoverthetop.

Serves6–8

PINEAPPLEUPSIDE-DOWNCAKE

Thisisabitbeforemytime,butIhavevaguenurserymemoriesofafriendofmygrandmother’smakingaversionofthis,whichshewouldservewithawarmsaucemadeofpineapplejuicethickenedwith—Iimagine—cornstarch.ThatIcandowithout,butIamstillofthemindthatitisperfectlyallrighttomakethiswithcannedpineapplerings.Ifeelitisslightlybadsporttostartpeelingandslicingyourownpineapple.

Anyway,thecannedpineappleisjustfine,thoughIadvisegoingfortheoneinitsownjuiceratherthaninsyrup,andIaddsomeofthejuicetothecakebatter,too.Thisseemstohelpmakeitlightandfluffy.

Ihavefoundthatthebestwayofkeepingthisswiftistobakeitinmycoppertartetatintin;ifyouareusingaregularcakepan,bepreparedtoaddafewminutesontothecookingtime.

Butterforgreasingthepan2tablespoonssugar6slicescannedpineapplerings⅓cupcandiedcherries⅔cupflour½cup(1stick)softbutter½cupsugar

2eggs1teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonbakingsoda3tablespoonspineapplejuicefromthecanofpineappleslices

1Preheattheovento400°F.Butteratartetatintinthatis9incheswideatthetopand8inchesindiameteratthebottom.Orbutteracast-ironskilletoran8-or9-inchnonspringformcakepan.

2Sprinklethe2tablespoonsofsugaroverthebutteredbase,andthenarrangethepineappleslicestomakeacircularpatternasinthepicture.

3Filleachpineappleringwithacandiedcherry,andthendotoneineachofthespacesinbetweentherings.

4Puttheflour,butter,sugar,eggs,bakingpowder,andbakingsodaintoafoodprocessorandrunthemotoruntilthebatterissmooth.Thenpourinthe3

tablespoonsofjuicetothinitalittle.

5Pourthismixturecarefullyoverthecherry-studdedpineapplerings;itwillonlyjustcoverit,sospreaditoutgently.

6Bakefor30minutes,theneaseaspatulaaroundtheedgeofthepan,placeaplateontop,andwithonedeft—ha!—move,turnitupsidedown.

Serves8

Idon’twishtosoundunsympathetic.Obviously,thefactthatIamwritingabookexpresslyconcerned,asitwere,withgoodfoodthatcanbepulledtogetherquickly,establishes,Ihope,mybonafidesinthisregard,butIhavetoownuptosomedegreeofimpatience.Thethingis,wheneverpeople,perhapsshowingaslightlypatronizingamusementathowoftenIcook(andmaybeit’sthatwhichirks),claimthattheythemselvesneverhavethetimetocook,itmakesmefeeluncharacteristicallyaggressive.WhatIwanttopointoutisthattheyarehardlyusingthetimetheysavebynotcookingwritingWarandPeace.Idon’tsaythatfindingtimetocookmakesyouabetterperson,butnordoIthinkthatbeing“toobusy”tocookmeansthatyourlifehasautomaticallyhigherpurpose.AndIsaythatasonewhooftenprofessestobebeyondbusybutsomehowfindstimetoslumpinfrontoftheTVwatchingCSIrepeatsforhoursonend.

ThetimesIdohavereadysympathywiththetoofrazzledandfraughttocookbrigadeisafterchildren’sbirthdaypartiesandatbreakfast.Iamnotgoodatbreakfast.IeatitbecauseIknowImust,butgivenachoiceIwouldratherwaituntillateronintheday.Besides,sinceImusthavetwocupsofteabeforeIevencometo,itoftendoesn’tleavealotoftimeforfiddlingaroundwithbreakfast,especiallyifyourmorninginvolves,asminedoes,takingchildrentoschool.

Thewayofcoping,Ihavefound,istoberatherunimaginativeaboutwhatyoueatonwaking.JustasInevergottoworkontimeinthelong-gonedayswhenIhadanofficejobwithoutlayingoutthemorning’sclothesbeforeIwenttobedatnight,soIfindIcanspeedthroughmytasksalittlefasterinthemorningifIknowinadvancewhatI’mgoingtoeatforbreakfast.Onemoment’shesitationandIbecomeavictimofchoice,overindulgedandpetulantandunabletobepleased.

WhatthismeansineffectisthatIhavemonth-orsix-week-longrunsofanygivenbreakfast—soft-boiledeggwithtoast,oatmealwithblueberries,muesliwithyogurtandpomegranateseedstociterecentexamples—beforeslidingontothenextrotation.Ithink,forweekdays,thismakesperfectsense.Butonweekendsorwhenwe’renotatwork,itcanfeelliberatingtolivebeyondtheroutine.

I’malsohappieronweekendstoeatlunchlaterandthereforewantabiggerbreakfast,anhourorsoafterI’vetea’dmyselfintoconsciousness.That’snottosayalltherecipesthatfollowcouldn’tbedoneduringtheweek—theycould,andeasily.Soplease.Overtoyou.

andeasily.Soplease.Overtoyou.

GOGET’EMSMOOTHIE

Thisistrulyaweekdayspecial:abreakfastthatcombinesfoodanddrinkforpeoplewhodon’tfeelthey’veevengottimetositdowninthemorning.

Iftheperson-in-a-hurryisminiatureinstature,andnotprogressedtocaffeineintake,thenreplacetheespressopowderwithatablespoonfulofpeanutbutter.Extraproteinandultradelicious.

Ikeepoverripebananas,peeledandcutintoquarters,inbagsinthefreezerwhichhelpgiveice-creamybulktothesmoothieanddispensewiththeneedforice.

1peeledfrozenbanana,quartered⅔cupmilk1tablespoonhoney4teaspoonschocolatemalteddrinkpowder½teaspooninstantespressopowder

1Putallingredientsintoablenderandwhiztomix.

2Pourintoatallglassanddrinkbeforedashingoutthedoor.

Serves1

CHOPPEDFRUITSALAD

Thisismyideaofaninvigoratingweekdaybreakfast,andImakeanalreadyeasyrecipeevenmoremanageablebychoppingupthefruittheeveningbeforeandleavingitincoveredbowlsinthefridge.Iknowthatsomepeoplemightworryaboutthelesseningofvitamincontentthereby,butIassureyouthatunlessyougrowyourownfruitorgetupbrightandearlyandbuyitfromafarmerwho’sjustpickedhis,thenyoumightaswellnotstartworryingabouthowmanyvitaminsyou’relosingbydoingalittlebitofin-advancechopping.Betterthannoteatingatall,tobefrank,andIalsoratherliketheswallowingwithoutchewingaspectthatalittlesteepinggives.

ThisisthefruitItendtouse,althoughthekeypointhereisreallywhatIhaveinthefridge.Thepomegranatejuicebelowisoutofabottle,butifyou’reusingout-of-seasonstrawberries,useasqueezeofrealjuicetosteeptheberriesandreplacethemixedseedswithagloriouslyjeweledtoppingofpomegranateinstead.

1cupfinelychoppedstrawberries1teaspoonpomegranatejuice½cupdicedmango½teaspoonlimejuice¾cupblueberries½cupvanillayogurt2teaspoonsmixedseeds(pumpkin,sunflower,sesame)

1Mixthechoppedstrawberrieswiththepomegranatejuice.

2Spritzthemangocubeswiththelimejuice.

3Using2tumblersorglasses,layertheingredientsstartingwiththestrawberriesandthenthemango,blueberries,yogurt,andfinallytheseeds.

Serves2

BREAKFASTBRUSCHETTA

SomethingthatisservedfromCaliforniatoTuscanyasaneveningsavoryorappetizermaynotseemanobviouschoiceforbreakfast,butIsay:Thinkagain.Thisisquicktomake,absurdlyeasyinfact.Thestrangethingisthatitisaseasytoeat,evenfirstthing.Icanwolfthisstuffdown.

FORTOMATOBRUSCHETTA:2tablespoonsoliveoil2thicklyslicedshortpiecessourdoughtoast1ripetomato—approximately4oz—roughlychoppedsaltandpeppertotaste

FORAVOCADOBRUSCHETTA:1ripeavocado2teaspoonslimejuicesaltandpeppertotaste4thicklyslicedshortpiecessourdoughtoast1tablespoonfreshlychoppedparsley

1Drizzlemostoftheoliveoiloverthetoast,topwiththechoppedtomatoes,andseasonbeforedrizzlingtheremainingfewdropsofoilontop.

2Halvetheavocado,scoopthefleshintoabowl,andmashroughlyusingaforkalongwiththelimejuice.Seasontotaste.

3Spreadclumpinglyoneachwaitingpieceoftoastandsprinklewiththeparsley.

Serves3to6,dependingonappetite

HOMEMADEINSTANTPANCAKEMIX

Thisisgoingtochangeyourlifeirrevocably.Forgiveanyscintillaofself-congratulatorypreeningandacceptmyboastassimple,enthusiasticexuberance.Thatisthespiritinwhichitisintended.ButItellyou:Justmixtheingredients,keeptheminacontainerateasyreach,andtheneverytimeyouarerequiredtobetheusher-forthofgoodthingsofamorning,justscoopsomedrymixtureout,mixandwhisktogetherwithegg,milk,andmeltedbutter,byhandorinablender—andthat’sit.Pancakesaplenty,withoutevenhavingtothinkaboutit.Youknowitmakessense.

FORTHEPANCAKEMIX:4cupsflour3tablespoonsbakingpowder2teaspoonsbakingsoda1teaspoonsalt2tablespoonsplus2teaspoonssugar

Mixtheaboveingredientstogetherandstoreinajar.

TOMAKETHEBATTERANDTHEPANCAKES:Tomakethepancakes,foreach1cupofpancakemix,addandwhisktogether:1egg1cupmilk1tablespoonbutter,melted

1Heatadryflatgriddleorpan—noneedtooilit.

2Spoon1½to2tablespoonsofbatterontothehotgriddleandwhenbubblesappearonthesurfaceofthelittlepancakes,flipthemovertomakethemgoldenbrownonbothsides.Aminuteorsoasideshoulddoit.

Makes15pancakesofabout3inchesindiameter

BLUEBERRYSYRUPFORPANCAKES

Accordingtothosewhomakeittheirbusinesstoknowsuchthings,bothmaplesyrupandblueberriesaresupremelyhealth-givingandwondrouslygoodforyou.Thisisfinebyme,sinceIlovethem,separatelyand—bywayofanewexperiment—incombination.Ifyouhaveanyleftover,youwillnoticethatitsetsintoakindofglossyjam.Thiswillkeepforafewdaysinajarandputinthefridge,andisgloriousdollopedintoyogurtorspreadonbread.

½cupmaplesyrup1½cupsblueberries

1Putthesyrupandblueberriesintoapanandbringtoaboil.

2Letbubblefor8–10minutes,andthenpourintoapitcherandbringtothebreakfasttablewiththepancakes.

Makesenoughforthepancakes,above

BREAKFASTBARS

Iamaddictedtothese,andsoiseveryoneIgivethemto.Althoughthey’requicktothrowtogether,theydotakenearlyanhourtobake,sowhatIsuggestis,makeabatchontheweekendandthenyouwillhavetheoaty,chewybarsreadyandwaitingforthosedayswhenyouhavetosnatchbreakfastontherun.

Mindyou,theyarejustlikemilkandcerealinbarform,sothere’snothingtostopyounibblingonewithyourmorningcoffeeathomeeveryday.Ifyouarenotamorningperson,believeme,theywillmakeyourlifeeasier.

Theyalsostorewell;indeed,theyseemtogetbetterandbetter.Sojuststashtheminatinandremovewhenyouwant.

114-fl-ozcancondensedmilk2½cupsrolledoats(notinstant)1cupshreddedcoconut1cupdriedcranberries1cupmixedseeds(pumpkin,sunflower,sesame)1cupnaturalunsaltedpeanuts

1Preheattheovento250°Fandoila9x13-inchbakingpanorjustuseadisposablealuminiumfoilone.

2Warmthecondensedmilkinalargepan.

3Meanwhile,mixalltheotheringredientstogetherandaddthewarmedcondensedmilk,usingarubberspatulatofoldanddistribute.

4Spreadthemixtureintotheoiledorfoilpanandpressdownwithaspatulaor,betterstill,yourhands(wearingthosedisposablelatexCSIglovestostopyoufromsticking)tomakethesurfaceeven.

5Bakefor1hour,remove,andafterabout15minutes,cutintofouracrossandfourdown,tomake16chunkybars.Letcoolcompletely.

Makes16

PEARANDGINGERMUFFINS

Theseareparticularlygood:nothingfancy(Ihateabreakfastmuffinthatthinksit’sacake),butthepearkeepsthetexturelusciousandthegingerpermeateseverything,includingyourkitchen,withitshuskyheat.ThismakesforthekindofSaturdaybreakfastIcanhappilysettleinto.AndI’mprettykeenonaquicksnacklateroninthedayofoneofthesenowcooledmuffinswithsomesharp,hardcheese,aCheddarmaybeorCaerphilly,oracrumbly,pungentblue.

Youcanmixallthedryingredientsinabowl,andthewetonesinalargemeasuringcup,coverbothwithplasticwrap,andleavetheformerinacoolspotinthekitchenandthelatterinthefridge.Thenallyouhavetodoispeelandchopthepearandforkeverythinglazilytogether.Idaresayyouwillnotgetpunishedfromonhighifyoudon’tbothertopeelthepear,either.Ido,simplybecauseIlovethewaythejuicyfruitmergeswiththecrumbwhentherearenobarrierstoitsoozing.

1¾cupsflour¾cupgranulatedsugar½cupplus6teaspoonspackedlightbrownsugar2teaspoonsbakingpowder1teaspoongroundginger⅔cupsourcream½cupvegetableoil

1tablespoonhoney2eggs1½cupspeeledandchoppedpears,about¼-inchdice

1Preheattheovento400°F,andlinea12-cupmuffinpanwithpapermuffincups.

2Measureintoabowltheflour,granulatedsugar,the½cupofbrownsugar,bakingpowder,andgroundginger.

3Inalargemeasuringcup,whiskthesourcream,oil,honey,andeggstogetherandthenfoldthisintothedryingredients.

4Lastly,mixinthepeardiceandthendividethebatterevenlyamongthemuffincups.

5Sprinkleeachonewith½teaspoonbrownsugarandthenbakefor20minutes.Removetoacoolingrack.Besteatenstillalittlewarm.

Makes12

CHOCOLATECROISSANTS

FirstletmesaytoyouthatifIcandothis,youcan.AsIhavenevertriedtohide,Ihavenopatienceandevenlessdexterity.Butthisischild’splay:Indeed,youcouldconsidergettingchildrentomakethem.Theycertainlylikeeatingthem,andtheytendtolikeeatingwhattheymakethemselvesevenmore.

Halfa17.2-ozpacketready-rolledbutterpuffpastry2½ozchocolate(milkordarkdependingontaste)1egg,beaten

1Preheattheovento425°F.Unfurlthesheetofpastryandthencutitinto4squares.

2Cuteachsquarediagonallytogive2triangles(theywillappearquitesmall).Putthetrianglewiththewiderpartfacingyouandthepointawayfromyou.

3Breakoffsmallpiecesofchocolate(approx.½inch)toplaceabout¾inchupfromthewideendnearestyou.

4Thencarefullyrollfromthatchocolate-loadedendtowardthepointofthetriangle.

5Youshouldnowhavesomethingresemblingastraightcroissant.Sealitlightlywithyourfingertipsandcurlitaroundintoacrescent.

6Placethechocolatecroissantsonabakingsheetlinedwithbakingparchment,aluminumfoil,orSilpatandpaintwiththebeatenegg.Bakefor15minutesuntilgoldenandpuffyandexuberantly,ifminiaturely,croissant-like.

Makes8

ORANGEFRENCHTOAST

ThereisnotatypeofFrenchtoastIdon’tlove,butthisversion,akindofeggy,squidgytoastandmarmalade,istheperfectmixturebetweenmorning-sharpandweekendtreatiness.

2eggs¼cupwholemilk¼teaspoongroundcinnamongratedzestof1orange2large,thicksliceswhitebreador4smallerslicesjuiceofanorange¼cupfinecutorangemarmaladesuchasTiptree“Crystal”

¼cupsugar1tablespoonbutter

1Whisktheeggs,milk,cinnamon,andorangezestinawideshallowdish.

2Soakthebreadslicesinthismixturefor2minutesaside.

3Whiletheeggybreadissoaking,bringtheorangejuice,marmalade,andsugartoaboil,thenturndowntoafastsimmerfor3–4minutes.Ifyouneedto,letthissyrupstandwhileyoucookthebread.

4Heatthetablespoonofbutterinaskilletandcooktheeggybreadforabout2minutesasideovermediumheatuntilgolden.

5ServetheFrenchtoastwithsomeoftheambersyruppouredovereachslice,andapitcherofextrasyrupontheside.

Serves2

GREENEGGSANDHAM

Thisisanotherbrunchdishwhich,frankly,canbeeatenatanytimeofthedaywithequalrelishandhasalsoinitsfavorthatchildren(whoinmyexperiencewouldprobablyeatanythingifithadpestoinit)loveit.Thisisentirelyproper,ofcourse,giventhat—veryobviously—therecipeisinspiredbytheGoodDoctor.

Whatyou’remakingineffectarepestopancakes—andthesewillbebetterifyouuse“fresh”pestothatcomesinaplastictub,notinajar—whichcanbewhizzedupinablenderandthenneedsamomentortwoinahotpanbeforebeingwrappedaroundfinelysliced,tenderlypinkham.

⅔cuplow-fatmilk½cuppesto½cupflour1eggoilforfrying5largethinhamslices

1Blendorwhisktogetherthemilk,pesto,flour,andeggtomakeabatter.

2Oilacrepepanorheavy-bottomedskillet,wipingawayanyexcessoilwithapapertowel,andplaceovermediumheat.

3Ladleinapproximately⅓–½cupofbatter,swirlinginstantlytogainapaper-thincrepe.

4Oncethetopbecomesdryandtheedgesliftaway,flickitoverwithathinrubberorwoodenspatulaforabout30secondstocooktheotherside.

5Layerthepancakesbetweenpiecesofbakingparchmentorwaxpaperasyougo,andwhenyouhavefinishedmakingthemlayasliceofhamoneachoneandrollintotrianglesorhoweveryoulike!

Makes5

Makes5

FRITTATAPARTY!

IlovethesortofthinomelettestheItalianssometimesturnintosandwiches:coldandpressedbetweentwopiecesofmayonnaisedbunorslicesofschiacciata.Andthat’swhatI’dwarmlyadvisehereintheunlikelyeventthatyouendupwithleftovers.Buttheyaresogoodhotandstraightoffthepress,eateneitherwithknifeandforkorrolledupwithinawarmedtortilla,thatIurgeyoutomorphintoakindofshort-orderomelettecooknexttimeyouhaveabatchofpeopletofeedconviviallyinthemorningornotlongafter.

Thewaytomakethiseasyis,firstgetagoodpan(IlikeaScanpanCrepePan),thengetoutloadsofeggsandleavethemoutnearamixingbowlbythestove,andthenmixupafewideasforfillingsandsetthemoutintheirbowlsnearby.Then,allyoudoiscracktwoeggs,addyourfilling,fry,tossout,andgetonwiththenext.

I’vejotteddownwhatIputintheomelettesopposite.Obviously,Idon’texpectyoutoberestricted,butIthoughtitmightbehelpful.

FOREACHOMELETTE:2eggs½teaspoonbutterandadropofoilforfrying

FORTHECHEESEOMELETTE:¼cupgratedEmmental(butanycheeseshoulddo)

FORTHECHILEOMELETTE:1longredchile,deseededandsliced¼teaspoongroundcoriander¼teaspoongroundginger

FORTHEGREENOMELETTE:½cupwatercressorbabyspinach(or,indeed,arugula,finelychopped)forfrying1scallion,finelysliced

FORTHEHAMOMELETTE:½cupchoppedham

1Beattheeggswiththefillingofyourchoice.

2Heatacrepepanorheavy-bottomedskilletwiththebutterandoil.

3Oncethepanishot,pourintheeggmixture,swirlingquicklytogetanevenandthincoatinginthepan.

4Lettheomelettecookforacoupleofminutesovermedium-highheat.

5Lifttheedgeoftheomelettewithaspatulatocheckthatitissetandgoldenunderneath;thetopoftheomeletteshouldbejustaboutsetbutstillalittlegooey.

6Sliptheomeletteoutofthepanontoaplateandfliponehalfoftheomeletteovertheother,orfoldin3likeabusinessletter.Carryon!

CROQUEMONSIEURBAKE

Likemanygoodbrunchrecipes,thisisalsojusttheticketforanearlyeveningsupper,thesortyoueatinyourdressinggownbeforesophisticatedadultsfeelitisentirelypropertodine.

ThejoyofthisisthatyoumakeupthemustardyhamandGruyèresandwichesandcoverwithbeateneggsthenightbefore,andjustletthemsitinthefridge,meldingintoonesavory,gooeypuddingovernight.Thenextmorninggoesasfollows:ovenon;egg-and-breaddishin;bruncheffortlesslyserved.

6slicesready-slicedmultigrainbrownbread⅓cupDijonmustard4ozGruyèrecheeseslices3slices/3ozham6eggs1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt⅓cupwholemilk4tablespoonsgratedGruyère,Emmental,orCheddargoodsprinklingofWorcestershiresauce

1Spreadthemustardonthebreadslicesandmakesandwicheswiththefineslicesofcheeseandham.Puteachsliceofcheeseagainstthemustardybread,andthehambetweenthem.Makethesandwichandcuteachoneinhalf,makingtwotriangles.

2Squishthesandwichesintoabakingdishapproximately10½by8¼inchesand2¼inchesdeep.

3Beattogethertheeggs,salt,andmilk(Imeasureoutthemilkintowhateverthemustard’sbeeninformaximumflavorpenetration)andthenpourthisoverthesandwichestightlypackedinthedish.

4Coverthedishwithplasticwrapandleaveinthefridgeovernight.

5Nextmorning,preheattheovento400°Fandtakethedishoutofthefridge,removingtheplasticwrap.

6SprinkleoverthegratedcheeseandWorcestershiresauceandbakeintheovenfor25minutes.

Serves4–6

Ihaveneverquiteunderstoodwhypeoplearesoobsessedwithhowlongarecipetakesor,rather,howlongsomethingtakestocook.Certainly,Iwouldneversuggestmyslow-cooked24-hourporkwhenyougethomefromworkatsevenandhavepeoplecomingtoeatateight.Thatwouldbesilly.Butformostofourlives,thetimeneededtocooksomethingistheleaststressfulaspect;whatyoushouldbeconsideringishowmuchtimeyouarerequiredtospendinthekitchen.ThisiswhyIwouldsomuchrather,whenI’mtiredandlackinginimpetusandinspiration,putachickenintoroast—whichwilltakeanhourorsotocook,duringwhichtimeIamnotneeded—thanstartchoppingupthingstostir-fry,whichmighttakeonlytenminutesbutforallofthosetenminutes,Iwillberequiredtobusymyselffrenetically.

Iexultintheliberationthatcomesfromslow-cooking.AndIadorethefeelingofsecurityandmessyorganizationthatemanatesfromthecozyknowledgethatthereissomethinggentlybraisingawayintheovenor,even,stillsnuglywrappedinthefridge,readyandwaitingforitsoventime.This,forme,isoneofthesmallpleasuresofeverydaylife.Itmakesmefeelinvolvedinthekitchen,withfood,whenI’mbusyelsewhere.Ican’tsetasidehugetractsoftimetogeteverymealreadywhenit’sneeded,sowhatIdoisalittlebitofprephereandthere,afive-minutethink-aboutandplanning,sothatwhenIdoneedtocook,it’snearlyalltakencareof.AllIhavetodoisapplyheat.

Idon’thaveavigorousdo-it-aheadplanofattack,butItryandtakesomeofthestepsearly.So,IstashsteaksandchickenpartsinmarinadessothatI’vegotsomethingreadytobeflungonagrillorunderabroilerwithoutforethoughtattheendoftheday.AndtheonethingIfeelutterlybeatenbywhenI’mreallytiredistheideaofpeelingandchoppingonions.Idon’tactuallyfinditdifficult,butthethoughtisadauntingone.So,whenIhavetimetospare(usuallywhenI’mavoidingsomethingIshouldbedoing),Ipeel,chop,andfryonionsslowlyandgentlytoagorgeousmushthatcanbefrozenincubesandthawedtoformthebasisforasteworsaucewhenneeded.

Ialsolikeasmallamountofquietlysatisfyingjar-fillinginmylife.It’sscarcelystrenuous,deeplyenjoyable,andalsomeansyouhavethewherewithalfordessertwheneveryouwantatsomeunforeseenfuturepoint.IfillajarwithgoldensultanasandpourGrandMarnieroverthemandletthemsteep.I’vealsobeenknowntogothemoretraditionalrum’n’raisinroute,andverygoodtheybothare.Iputmorellocherriesandcherrybrandyinajar,and—averyrecent

bothare.Iputmorellocherriesandcherrybrandyinajar,and—averyrecentinnovationandrubilygorgeous—mixdriedcherriesandberries,that’showthey’relabeled,withapomegranateliqueurcalledPama.Anyoftheseisexquisitetumbledovericecream.

Slow-cooking,quitesimply,canbetheexpressroute.Whenyouthinkaboutit,thereisalmostacosmicpathosaboutourcontemporarybeliefthatyoucan“save”time.Icansaveyouenergyand,importantly,stress.

Besides,Ican’tliveeveryminuteofmylifeasaspinningtop,whippingmyselftogoeverfaster.Myquick-quick-slowapproachisn’tjustaboutofferingpracticalhelp;itactuallychangestheemotionaltenorofthehouse.

MAPLECHICKEN’N’RIBS

Thisrecipesaysitall.Youneednomorethanafewminutestoloadupacoupleoffreezerbagswithribsandchicken,oils,andunguentsandthenafteradayorso’sun-troublesomemarinatinginthefridge,youtipoutthecontentstoaroastingpanandslotitintheoven.Yourinputisminimal,butwhatyougetisabigfeastthatfeelshomeyandwelcomingandmakeseveryonehappy,youincluded.

12porkspareribs12chickenthighs,skinandbonestillon1cupapplejuice,assharpaspossible¼cupmaplesyrup2tablespoonsvegetableoil2tablespoonssoysauce2staranise1cinnamonstick,halved6unpeeledclovesgarlic

1Puttheribsandchickenpiecesinacoupleoflargefreezerbagsorintoadish.

2Addalltheremainingingredients,squelchingortossingeverythingtogetherwellbeforesealingthebagsorcoveringthedish.

3Leavetomarinateinthefridgeovernightoruptotwodays.

4Takethedishoutofthefridgeandpreheattheovento400°F.

5Pourthecontentsofthefreezerbaginto1or2largeroastingpans(makingsurethechickenisskinsideup),placeinthepreheatedoven,andcookforabout1¼hours,bywhichtimeeverythingshouldbestickyandglossedchestnutbrown.

Serves6–8

CRISPYDUCK

I’vealwaysthoughtoneofthebestwaystoeatduckwasastheChinesedo,butIhadneverthoughtitwouldbesoeasytocook.Isay“cook.”Idonothingexceptcutsomefatofftheduckandsititonarackinapanandputitintheovenforhoursonend.ThenItakeitout,settowithsomeforks,andputsomestore-boughtChinesepancakesontosteam.Ichopandslicecucumberandscallionsandopenajarofhoisinsauce.Actually,cometothinkofit,Inearlyalwaysasksomeoneelsetoopenitforme.Thiscouldhardlybeeasier.What’smore,childrenseemtoadoreit,whichmakesitareallylovelyfamilySaturdaydinner.It’seasytoaddanotherduckifthereareevenmoreofyoueating.

1duck4–6store-boughtChinesepancakes10ozjarhoisinsauce½cucumber6scallions

1Preheattheovento325°F.

2Cutofftheflapoffatthathangsovertheduck’scavity.Sitthetrimmedduckonarackorslottedtrayoveradeeproastingpanandroastfor4hours.

3Turntheovenupto450°Fandgiveafinal30minutesofintenseheat.Or,ifit’seasier,justleavetheduckinthelowovenfor5½hours.Thechoiceisyours.

4Sitthepancakesonthetoppartofasteamertocookorsimplyfollowinstructionsonthepackage.Pourthesauceinabowlwithaspoon.

5Cutthecucumberintomatchsticks(likeyougetinaChineserestaurant).

6Cutthescallionslengthwaysintoshortstrips(again,liketheydoinChineserestaurants).

7Carefullytaketheroastingpanoutoftheovenandtransfertheduckontoa

board.Whenyoucanhandleitcomfortably,shreditandsetitonthetablewiththesauce,cucumber,scallionshreds,andpancakes.Wraptheduckmeat,toppedwiththesauce,cucumbers,andscallion,inthepancakes.Whentheduckfathascooledalittle,pouritintoabowlorjar.Itmakesgreatfriedpotatoes.

Serves4–6

LAMB,OLIVE,ANDCARAMELIZEDONIONTAGINE

Nearlyallstewsstartwithchoppedonions.Thisisthelazyperson’sversion,whichusessomesweetonionconfitoutofajarinstead(thoughifyou’vemadesomeofyourownonionmush,dousethat).AndIaddtothedesirableidlenessbynotevensearingthemeat.Ijusttipeverythingintoabigpanandletitdoitsownsweetthingwithoutanyinterferencefromme.Idon’tactuallycookthisinatagine—thoughIoftenserveitinone—buteversincesomeonetoldmethatinMoroccomosttaginesaremadeinpressurecookers,Ihavefeltunembarrassedbycallingsomethingcookedinapanatagine.Andbyallmeansuseapressurecookerifyou’rethatwayinclined.I’vetriedthem,butalwaysreturntopotsandpansthatdon’thissatme.

Iprefertocookthisinalowovenratherthanonthestove,butalickingsimmerwoulddoaswell.Likeallstews,itbenefitsbybeingcookedinadvance,soitmakessensetocookthisonadaywhenyou’vegottime,andeatit—reheatingitonthestove,allofit,orinbatchesassuits—whenyou’reinmoreofahurry.

Thequickest,andmostsuitable,accompanimentisabowlofcouscous,paleandplainorstuddedwithacanortwoofchickpeas.

2¼lbsdicedlegoflamb1headofgarlic,separatedintocloves12ozpittedblackolivesinbrine,5ozdrainedweighttogive1¼cups½cupcaramelizedonionsfromajar4tablespoonscapers

2teaspoonsgroundcumin2teaspoonsgroundginger1750mlbottleredwine

1Preheattheovento300°F.

2Putalloftheingredientsintoacasseroleorheavy-bottomedpan,pouringinthewinelastandgivingeverythingagoodstir.

3Bringthepantoaboil,thenclamponthelidandputintotheovenfor2hoursoruntilthelambisverytender.

Serves6–8

LAMBSHANKSWITHBEANS

Thetroublewiththesortofspeedycookingthatcan’thelpbutbethemainstayofourdailyrepertoireisthatitnecessarilyleavesoutthefoodthatmakesyoufeelcozyratherthanbrisklyefficient.ButevenifIknowI’veonlygottenminutesoffreetimeovertwodays,IcanstillmakesureIgetsomethingbigandbolsteringonthetable.OnonedayIstickmylambshanksintomarinate,ontheotherIputthemintheoven,leavingthemtherewhileIbattleoverhomeworkortryandclearmydeskorwhateverotherdoomedtaskIsetmyself.

ThebeansI’mhappytogetoutofacan.IlovetheirpinksandbrownsandtonesofTuscanstoneandtheyturnapileofbonesintoafeast.

1cupwhitewine4tablespoonsredcurrantjellyplus1teaspoon2tablespoonsWorcestershiresauce¼cupgarlic-infusedoilplus2tablespoons2onions,quartered

3-inchsprigrosemaryor1teaspoondried6lambshanks¼cupwater1tablespoonDijonmustard414-ozcansmixedbeans(sometimessoldasmixedbeansalad)saltandpeppertotaste

1Getouttwofreezerbagsanddividethewine,allbutthe1teaspoonofredcurrantjelly,Worcestershiresauce,thegarlicoil,androsemarybetweenthem.Addtheshanks,3toabag.Sealandputinthefridgeovernightorupto2days.

2Whentheshankshavehadtheirmarinatingtime,takethemoutofthefridgeandpreheattheovento425°F.

3Tipthecontentsofthebagsintoafoil-linedroastingpanandslotthisintheoven,turningitdownimmediatelyto325°Fandroastfor1½hours,thenremovetheshankstoawarmeddish.

4Inapanbigenoughtoholdthebeans,warmthewater,remaining2tablespoonsofgarlicoil,teaspoonofredcurrantjelly,andtheDijonmustard.Stirtocombineandaddthebeans,heatingthemgentlyandstirringoccasionallywithawoodenspoon.Seasontotasteandthenaddtothedish

withtheshanks.Servewithmoreredcurrantjellyandperhapsatomatosaladalongside.

Serves6

COQAURIESLING

IhavealwayslovedtheAlsatianversionofcoqauvinandthisisit,stunninglystreamlined.Ireplacetheonionwithleek,buybaconalreadycubed,andbuychickenthighs.Thedarkmeatisalwaysbestinastew.Idon’tbothertosearthemeat,whichreallymeansyouneedskinlessportions;unbrownedchickenskinisnotpretty.Ifyou’renotbuyingthighs,butthighfillets,thenitisprobablymorehelpfultothinkintermsofbonedweight,ratherthannumberofportions:go,here,forabout2¾pounds.

Itendnottoaddanycreamtothisthefirsttimearound,whichiswhyImentionitintheingredientslistbutnotinmymethod,butifIhaveasmallamountleftover,Iaddalittleheavycreamandturnitintoapastasauce.IliketoeatmycoqauRieslingastheydoinAlsace,withahugepileofbutterednoodles.Whetheryouaddcreamornotisentirelyuptoyou.

2tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil1cupcubedbacon1leek,finelysliced12skinlesschickenthighsor2¾poundsthighfillets1750-mlbottleRieslingwine10ozoystermushrooms,tornintostrips(4cups)3bayleaves

saltandpeppertotasteheavycream,optional1to2tablespoonsfreshlychoppeddill

1Heattheoilinacasseroleorlargewidepanandfrythebaconuntilcrisp.

2Addtheslicedleekandsoftenitwiththebaconforaminuteorso.

3Tipinthechickenthighs,wine,mushrooms,andbayleaves.

4Seasonwithsaltandpepperandbringtoaboil,coverthepan,andsimmergentlyfor30–40minutes,stirringinthecreamforthelastcoupleofminutesifyouwant.Likeallstews,thistastesitsmellowestbestifyouletitgetcoldandthenreheatthenextday.Butit’snohardshiptoeatstraightoff.Whichever,servesprinkledwithdill,andwithsomebutterednoodlesontheside.

Serves6

Serves6

SWEDISHSALMON

Ithinkofthisasacuriousamalgamofmytwograndmothers.Mymaternalgrandmotherwasapassionate,ifthatistherightwordtodescribestirringsforthefrozennorth,espouserofallthingsSwedish—design,decor,dill.Mypaternalgrandmothertaughtmetocooksalmonthisway,andthereisnobetter.That’stosay,youdon’treallycookit,youjustgetithotandletitgetcold.Ipromiseyou,youhavenevertastedcoldpoachedsalmontillyouhavetasteditthisway:Itstendercoralfleshisdelicatebutflavorsomeanditmakescookingforabigcrowd—thinkweekendlunchinthesummer—almostdisconcertinglyeasy.

Formeithastobeeatenwiththemustardydillsauce,whichiswhyIhavemergedthetworecipes(thoughfeelfreetosubstituteaplateoflemonorlimewedges,buteitherway,sitthesalmononaplatelinedwithwatercressorotherpepperyleaves)and,forchoice,withthecucumberandpotatosaladsthatfollow.

Ifitmakesyoufeelmorepositive,believemeyoudon’thavetohaveanyexperiencefilletingfish.Ifindthatcookedlikethis,youcanjustliftupthetailendandstartslicingandthewholetopfilletwillcomeoffinyourhands;removethebackboneandyouhavetheother.ButsometimesIjustcutoffpieces,asanyway,Ithinktheylookbetterontheplateifnotinhugechunks.Therearetoomanyvariablesatplaytobepreciseabouthowlongthesalmonwilltaketocook,butifyou’replanningtoeatitforsupper,makeitinthemorning;ifyouwantitforlunch,thenprepareitthepreviousdayorevening.

1salmon—preferablywild—approx.5lbs,cleanedandscaled1ozfreshdillplus3tablespoonschoppeddill4wholescallions

2tablespoonsplus1teaspoonkoshersalt,or1tablespoonplus½teaspoontablesalt2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar1teaspoonpeppercorns

3tablespoonsDijonmustard2tablespoonslightbrownsugar1cupsourcream3tablespoonswhitewinevinegar

1Laythesalmoninaroastingpan,cuttingitsheadand/ortailoffifnecessary,andstuffthecavitywiththebunchofdill.

2Addthescallions,2tablespoonsofsalt,thegranulatedsugar,andthe

peppercorns.Pourinenoughcoldwatersothatthesalmonisjustcovered.

3Putontheheatandbringtoaboil,turndowntoagentlesimmer,coverwithaluminumfoil,andletbubbletimidlyfor10minutes.

4Removethepanfromthestoveandturnthesalmonover.Don’tworryaboutrippingtheskinasyouwillbefilletingitlater.Letitcool,coveredlooselywithbakingparchmentorwaxpaper.

5Whenthewater’scold,thesalmonwillbeperfectlycookedandvery,verysucculentandtender.

6Removethesalmonfromitscoldpoachingliquidtoalargepieceofwaxpaperorbakingparchment.Removetheskin,andcarefullycutfilletsoffthefishinwhateverwayiseasiestforyou.

7Arrangeonaservingplateandgetonwiththesauce.

8Whisktogetherthemustardandbrownsugarandwhenmixed,whiskinthesourcreamandvinegar.Seasontotastewithsalt.Whiskinthechoppeddill.Transfertoapitchertoservealongsidethesalmon.

Serves10–12

SWEETANDSOURCUCUMBERSALAD

IlovethisMiddleEuropeansummersalad.Itisalsounfathomablygoodwithhotfrankfurters.Eventhoughitdoesgetalittlewaterier,itisstillfantasticafterit’sbeensittinginthefridgeforawhile,whichmakesitanothereasydo-aheaddish.Justtransfertoaservingbowlwithaspatulaifneedbe.

2mediumcucumbers2teaspoonssugar2tablespoonswhitewinevinegar2teaspoonskoshersaltor1teaspoontablesalt¼cupfinelychoppeddill

1Peelandfinelyslicethecucumbersintowafer-thincirclesandtransfertoalargebowl.

2Inameasuringcup,whisktogetherthesugar,vinegar,andsaltandpouroverthecucumbers,turningwelltomix.

3Addthechoppeddill,tossagain,andthenturnintoashallowservingdish.Orelse,coverwithplasticwrapandchillinthefridgeuntilneeded(upto4hours).

Serves10–12

WARMPOTATOSALAD

Ihaveadifficultywiththosepotatosaladsthatareclaggywithmayoandthatburntheesophaguswithtooenthusiasticascatteringofrawonion.Thisismoremything:nopeeling—tostartwith—andthen,finally,asousingwithwhitewinevinegarmixedwithmustardandbacon.Andthescallionsaregentle.Iloveitwarm,butsolongasyoumixthedressingandthepotatoeswhilethey’rethemselveswarm,itdoesn’tmatterifyoueatthesaladcold.Or,rather,atroomtemperature:Donotchillitinthefridge.Anddon’tcrumblethebaconovertillyou’rereadytoserveit.

4½lbsbabynewpotatoes4scallions,finelysliced1tablespoongarlic-infusedoil8slicesbacon

1–2teaspoonswhitewinevinegar1tablespoonwhole-grainmustard

1Bringapanofsaltedwatertoaboilandtipinthepotatoes.Cookfor20minutesoruntiltender,thendrainandcutinhalf(ifyoucanbebothered).

2Putthepotatoesintoalargebowlandaddthescallions.

3Heattheoilinthewarmpotatopanandcookthebaconuntilreallycrispy,thenremovetoaplate.

4Takeofftheheatandaddthevinegarandmustard.Givealittlestir,thentipinthepotatoesandscallionsandtosseverythingtogetherbeforetransferringtoaservingbowl.Youcanleaveitlikethisforanhourorso.

5Whenyouarereadytoserveit,crumbleovermostofthecrispbaconandtossagain,thensprinklewiththeremainingbitsofbacon.

Serves10–12

GRAVLAXSASHIMI

ThiswasnotintendedtobetheSwedishportionofthebook,butitoccurredtomeaftermakingsomegravlaxaChristmasorsoagothatthemethodwouldbeaverygoodwayofcuringapieceofsalmontocreatefear-freesashimiathome.

Obviously,aswellashavingsomeJapaneseflavors—thewasabiandsake,andnodill—thisisacompletelyeffort-freetakeonwhatcanbealittlefiddly.

Youcanbuythepieceofsalmonatthesupermarket,alongwiththeflavorings,andeverythinggoesinadishinthefridgeandisjustleftthereforthreedays,anduptofive.

Itmakesadifferentkindofsupperandaverygoodone:YoucaneatitasifitwereScandinavian,alongwithryebreadandgherkins,orashere,withmoreofanodtoitsJapaneseassociation,withsushirice,pickledginger,andablobortwoofwasabi.

1lbskinlesssalmonfillet3tablespoonskoshersalt3tablespoonssugar1½tablespoonssake1tablespoonwasabi

1Putthesalmoninaglassdish.

2Mixthesalt,sugar,sake,andwasabipasteinalittlebowlandsmearhalfofitoverthesalmon.Turnthesalmonoverandsmearovertherest.

3Coverthedishwithplasticwrap,makingsureyoupressdownonthesalmonandinthecornersbeforebringingitoveranddownthesidesofthedish.

4Placecansofvegetablesorunopenedjarsofpicklesonthesalmontoweightitandputeverythinginthefridgeforatleast2daysandupto5.

5Whenyouwanttoeatit,removethesalmonfromthedishandwipeitwithpapertowels.Putitonaboardandcutdownintostrips,thencuteachstripinto2or3piecestomakesashimi-suitableshapes.

Serves8

MOONBLUSHTOMATOES

Iusedtobalkatthe“sunblush”tomatoesyoucangetatspecialtyshops,thesortthataredrieddowntoessenceoftomatoandsteepedinoreganoandoil.ButIfindthemincrediblyusefulanddisconcertinglygood.I’dtriedmakingmyowninthepast,butevenwhenbarelyon,myovenseemedtoohotforthejob.Now,though,I’vehitontheway,whichissimplytoputtheminaveryhotoven,turnitoff,andleavethetomatoesovernight;hence“moon”blush.Iamaddictedtomakingthemnow.Feelfreetosubstitutethehomespunvarietyinanyrecipethatstipulatesstore-boughtsunblushtomatoesandI’veputoneofmyfavoriterecipesfortheirusagebelow,too.Frankly,though,they’rewonderfuleatenjustastheyare,withbread,cheese,orasasalad.

AndIalsomakethemexactlythesamewaywithlargetomatoes,roughlychopped—andseethemlookinggloriouswiththetunahere.Thismakesafabulousinstantpastasauce,too.

1lb,about24innumber,on-the-vinecherryorotherbabytomatoes2tablespoonsoliveoil2teaspoonskoshersalt1teaspoondriedthyme¼teaspoonsugar

1Preheattheovento450°F.

2Cutthetomatoesinhalfandsitthemcutsideupinanovenproofdish.Sprinkleovertheoliveoil,salt,thyme,andsugar.

3Putthemintheovenandimmediatelyturnitoff.Leavethetomatoesintheovenovernightorforadaywithoutopeningit.

SLOW-ROASTTOMATOES,GOATCHEESE,ANDMINTSALAD

8–10cupsarugulaorspinachleaves1cupsoftgoatcheese,suchasChavrie1batchMoonblushTomatoes,opposite2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil1tablespoonlemonjuice

2tablespoonsfreshlychoppedmint

1Arrangethearugulaorspinachonalargedish,thenscoopoutspoonfulsofthesoftgoatcheeseanddollopithereandthere.

2Addthecooked-down,intenselyredtomatohalves.

3Inthedishthetomatoeshadbeencookingin,whisktogethertheoilandlemonjuiceandpouroverthesalad.

4Scatterwithmint.

Serves8

LAZYLOAF

Itishearteningtoknowthatyoucanbeinapermanenthurryandnotspendmorethanafewminutesatanytimeanywhere,letalonejustinthekitchen—andstillmakeabeautifulloafofbread.

Thisisit—afewingredientslazilystirredtogetherinabowl,andthenintoabreadpanintheoven.Thereisnokneadingorrising.Itfeelslikeacheat,butitisn’t.It’stheright,realthing.

2¾cupswholewheatbreadflour2cupsbest-qualityoatyunsugaredmuesli(donotusegranola)2½teaspoons(1package)rapid-riseorinstantyeast2teaspoonskoshersaltor1teaspoontablesalt1cup2%milk

1cupwater

1Mixtheflour,muesli,yeast,andsaltinabowl,thenpourinthemilkandwaterandstirtomix.Itwillbeathickporridge.

2Transfertoagreasedorsilicon2lbloafpan;Ilikeonethat’sdeepandshortratherthanshallow.Putthisinacoldoven,turningitimmediatelyonto225°F,andleaveatthistemperaturefor45minutes.

3Whenthese45minutesareup,turntheoventemperatureupto350°Fandleavefor1hour,bywhichtimethebreadshouldbegoldenandcookedthrough.Slipitoutofitspanandalthoughdense—itisthatkindofloaf—itshouldfeelslightlyhollowwhenyouknockitunderneath.Youcanalwaysslipitbackintheoven,outofitspan,forafewminutesifyouthinkitneedsmorebaking.

4Removetoarackandletcool.

NO-CHURNPOMEGRANATEICECREAM

It’snothardtothinkofadessertthatcanbemadeinadvance.Butmostlytheadvantageissimplythatalltheeffortisupfrontandearly.Thethingaboutthisrecipeisthatyoudoitinadvance—it’sicecream,sothatstandstoreason—butwhatyoudoinadvanceisnegligibleintermsofeffort.Youdon’tmakeacustard,andyoudon’thavetokeepwhippingitoutofthedeepfreezetobeatthecrystalsoutofit.No,yousimplysqueezeandstir.

Ontopofthatcauseforgreatercontentment,thereisalsothefactthatthisdelicatepinkicecreamtasteslikefragrant,sherbetyheaven.

2pomegranates1lime1½cupspowderedsugar2cupsheavycream

1Juicethepomegranatesandthelime,strainingthejuicesintoabowl.Youwillhaveapproximately¾cupofpomegranatejuice.Reservethepomegranateseedsforgarnish.

2Addthepowderedsugarandwhisktodissolve.

3Whiskinthecreamandkeepwhiskinguntilsoftpeaksforminthepalepinkcream.

4Spoonandsmooththeicecreamintoarigidplasticcontainerwithatight-fittinglidandfreezeforatleast4hoursorovernight.Scatterwithpomegranateseedswhenyoueatit.

Serves8

IRISHCREAMTIRAMISU

I’velongbeentinkeringaboutwithabottleofBaileys,seeinghowitcouldbestbecalleduponinthekitchen,andIthink,withthis,I’vefoundit.AnItalianfriendofmine,whomakesakillertiramisuherself,wasaninstantconvert.Iwasrelieved;theItaliansgenerallyareconservativeabouttheirfood,whichgoessomewaytoexplainingthelongevityoftheircherishedculinarytraditions.Butthisonlysoundslikesomesortofjoke—“DidyouheartheoneabouttheIrishmanandtheItalian…?”—andinrealityisanelegantlybuff-tinted,creamy-tonedvariantofthepunchyifcomfortablyclichédoriginal.

1½cupsespressocoffee,madewith1½cupswaterand9teaspoonsinstantespressopowder1cupBaileysIrishCreamliqueur27.05-ozpackagesSavoiardi(Italianladyfinger)cookiesorotherladyfingers2eggs⅓cupsugar1lb/2cupsmascarponecheese2½teaspoonscocoa

1Makethecoffeeandletitcool(theespressopowderdoesmixfairlywellinroomtemperaturewater).

2Mixthecoffeeand¾cupoftheBaileystogetherinashallowbowl.

3Diptheladyfingersintothisliquid;letthemsoakoneachsideenoughtobecomedampbutnotsoggy.Linethebottomofan8½-inchsquareglassdishwithalayerofladyfingers.

4Separatetheeggs,butkeeponlyoneofthewhites.Whiskthetwoyolksandsugartogetheruntilthickandapaleryellow,thenfoldintheremainingquartercupofBaileysandthemascarponetomakeamousseymixture.

5Whiskthesingleeggwhiteuntilthickandfrothy;youcandothisbyhandwithsuchalittleamount.Foldtheeggwhiteintotheyolkymascarpone,andthenspreadhalfofthismixtureontopofthelayerofladyfingers.

6Repeatwithanotherlayerofsoakedladyfingers,andthentopwiththeremainingmascarponemixture.

7Coverthedishwithplasticwrapandleaveinthefridgeovernight.Whenyouarereadytoserve,pushthecocoathroughasmallfine-meshsievetodustthetopofthetiramisu.

Serves12,thoughitdoesn’thaveto…

FORGOTTENPUDDING

Thereisawonderfulpoetrytothenameofthisdessertwhich,thankfully,onceeatencouldneverbeforgotten.It’sanold,oldrecipepopularlyexhumed—Ibelieve—bythelate,greatRichardSax.Thinkofitasakindofmarshmallow-basedpavlova.That’stosay,youwhipeggwhitesasifmakingmeringue,spreadonajellyrollpan(orthat’showImakeit),andputinanovenwhich—aswiththemoonblushtomatoeshere—youimmediatelyswitchoff,leavingthepuddingtocookovernight—hence,“forgotten.”

Asfortheyolksyoudon’tuse:AddacoupleofwholeeggstothemandmakeanintenselygoldenversionoftheMexicanscrambledeggshere.

6eggwhites½teaspoonsalt1¼cupsplus2teaspoonssugar½teaspooncreamoftartar1teaspoonvanillaextract1cupheavycream4passionfruit1½cupsblackberries1½cupsquarteredstrawberries

1Preheattheovento450°F.

2Inalargebowl,whisktheeggwhitesandsaltuntilpeaksbegintoform.

3Graduallyadd¼cupofsugar,thenthecreamoftartarandvanilla,whiskingallthewhileathighspeed,untilthewhitesarestiffandglossy.

4Butterajellyrollpan,thenspreadevenlywiththemeringuemixture.

5Putintheoven,closethedoor,immediatelyswitchofftheoven,andleaveovernight,withoutopeningoreventhinkingofpeeking.

6Whenyouwanttoserveit,removetoalargeplatter.

7Whiskthecreamuntilthickbutstillsoftandspreadoverthemarshmallow-meringue.

8Scoopouttheseedsandpulpofthepassionfruitanddotoverthecreaminparts.Tumbleovertheblackberries.Tossthequarteredstrawberriesintheremaining2teaspoonsofsugarandarrangethemonthecream,too.

9Cutintoslices;Icut3downand2across.

Makes12squares

Oneoftheoft-citedlamentsofthosewhodon’treallyenjoycookingisthatamealtakessomuchlesstimetoeatthantocook.Idon’tmindthat,notleastbecauseIalwaysrelishabitofpotteringaboutinthekitchen;it’stheonlytimeIevergettomyself.Butalso,IhavetoadmittoanaffinitytothatVictorianworldview,theconstantharpingontheinevitabilityofdecline—“thewoodsdecay,thewoodsdecayandfall,”thatsortofthing—andtheremindersthatallthingsgobackintotheearthoruptotheheavens.Idon’tresisttheimplacablecycleofmeals,thekitchengrind.

Luckily,enoughofmylifeisspentonwhatfeelslikesomesortofcakewalktread-millformetohavesympathywiththosewhohavealesssentimentalattachmenttoboththekitchenandmyfondfutilism.Therearedays,andprobablythosedaysareinthemajority,whenIdon’tfeelI’vegotmorethantenminutestogetsupperonthetable.Yes,Iamwillingeverynowandagaintohavebreadandcheese.Ilovebreadandcheese.ButmostdaysIwantapropersupper.AndImean“proper.”Iamnotinterestedinmakingsomethingeasybutdispiritingtoeat:AsfarasI’mconcernedeveryeatingopportunityhastoberelished,andtheideaofwastingonebyeatingsomethingIdon’treallywantorthatdoesn’tgivemepleasureistoohideoustocontemplate.Ithappens,butIaminconsolableafter.

Actually,IeatsofastthatI’dhavethoughtitwouldbeimpossibleformeevertofindanyrecipethattakeslesstimetocookthantoeat,butdesperatetimesneeddesperatemeasures—andifanexhaustedweeknight,aftera6o’clockmeeting,arowoverhomework,andareproachfullistofunreturnedphonecallsandemailsdoesn’tcountasdesperatetimes,Idon’tknowwhatdoes.IneedfoodIcancookfastorelse—notleast—I’lleattoomuchwhileI’mwaitingforsuppertobeready.Cook,feedthyself.AndindeedIdo,onthesortsoffoodsthatfollow.Thesearerecipesthatarealmosttoobare-bonestobecalledthat,usingingredientsthatneedatmostaquickblitzinahotpanorabasic,effortlesswarm-through.They’remyfastfallbacks,thesortofmealsIcancookwhenI’msqueezedfortimeateveryangle.Inotherwords,youcandoasupermarketsweepatlunchandsnatchyourselfsupperintheevening.And,what’smore,thewashingup’sminimaltoo.

FLASH-FRIEDSTEAKWITHWHITEBEANMASH

WhenIwasachild,steakhousesalwayshadsomethingcalledminutesteak,asinminnit,onthemenu,economicallyattractiveportionsthatneededamere60secondstocookthrough.Inourhousetheywerepronouncedmynewtsteaks,asifinbaffleddisappointmentatthemeagernessofthemeatprovided.It’shardtothrowofftheideathatasteakshouldbesomethingchunkyandbigenoughtogetyourteethintoandIcertainlylikemymeatrare.WhenI’maskedatarestauranthowIwantmysteakcooked,Itellthemjusttohititontheheadandwalkitstraightthrough.SoIcandoaproper,fleshlysteaksupperprettydamnfast,butwhenyou’rereallyupagainstit,thisistheperfectalmost-instantdinner.UnderfiveminutesiswhatI’mtalkingaboutfromstarttofinish—andthatisn’tbad.Icouldhoneitdownbystickingtotheminutesteakidea,andit’sfine,onlythere’ssomethingalittleschooldinnersaboutthosesadlittlestragglyragsofsteam.Thisismycompromise:slenderbutstillsubstantialsteakthatcooksfor90secondsaside.Andinthattime,I’veproducedagarlicky,lemony,ultrafabulous,utterlyaddictivebeanmash.Belowmakesenoughforfour,moreiftherearechildreneatingtoo,butIhavetocomecleanandsaythatIdon’tquitehalvetheamountsforthemashwhentherearejusttwoofuseating.Thisisjusttoogood,andIsimplygodowntotwocansandalittlelessofeverythingelse.I’mafraidIdon’treallywanttoreduceanythingatall.

¼cupplus2teaspoonsoliveoilmostof1clovegarlic,crushedgratedzestandjuiceof1lemon314-ozcanswhitebeans1sprigfreshrosemary,optionalsaltandpeppertotaste4thin-cutsirloinorentrecotesteaks,about5ozeach

1Firstgetonwiththebeans:Putthe¼cupofoliveoilinasaucepan,minceinthegarlic,addthelemonzest,andwarmthrough.

2Drainthebeansandrinseunderataptogetridofthegloop,thenaddtothepanandwarmthrough,stirringandsquishingwithawide,flatspoonsothatthebeansgointoanubblymush.Addtherosemarysprig,ifusing,andseason

totaste;somebeanscomesaltierthanothers.

3Meanwhile,heatateaspoonofoilinalargeskilletandcookthesteaksonhighfor1½minutesaside.Removetowarmedplates,sprinklingsomesaltandpepper,totaste,overthemasyoudoso.

4Squeezethelemonjuiceintothehotpanandletitbubbleupwiththemeatyoil,thenpouroverthesteaks.Serveimmediatelywiththemash.

Serves4

CHICKENSCHNITZELWITHBACONANDWHITEWINE

Itstandstoreasonthatifyouwantfoodtocookquicklyitneeds,firstofall,tobefitforthepurpose.Thincutsofmeat—and,indeed,fish—areobviouscontendershere,butyoudohavetomakesurethatspeeddoesn’ttakepriorityovertaste.Achickenschnitzel,orescalope,grilledplainiscertainlyfastfare,butitwouldn’tmakeyouskiptothedinnertable.Baconcomestotherescuehere;nothingfancy,justsweet,saltyribbonscourtesyofOscarMayer,whichIalwayskeepinthefridgeforjustsuchaneventuality.

There’ssomethingaboutthecomingtogetherofbaconandwhitewinethatissimple—butever-compelling.Forme,it’sthesmell,thelure,ofcarbonaraandwhatitdoeshereisoozeitswaythroughthepan-scorchedchickentomakethisfeellikeatreat.Andifyoucandothatwithaboneless,skinlesspieceofchickenbreast,you’redoingsomethingright.

Ilovethiswithsomeslendergreenbeans—evenmychildrendo—andifyouhaveanyleftover,chopitupandheatwithalittlecreamandParmesantomakeaquickpastasauce.

1teaspoongarlic-infusedoil4stripsbacon44-ozchickenescalopesorbonedandskinnedbreasthalves⅓cupwhitewine

1Putthegarlicoilinaskilletandaddthebacon.

2Frytillthebacon’scrispandthepanisfullofbaconyjuices,removethebacontoapieceoffoil,wrapit,andsetitasideforamoment.

3Frythechickenforabout2minutesaside,untilthereisnopinknesswhenyoucutintoapiece.Makesurethepan’shotsothattheescalopescatchalittle,turningbeautifullybronze.

4Removethechickentoaservingplateandquicklycrumbleinthebaconyou’vesetaside,thenpourthewineinandleteverythingbubbleup,andpouroverthechickenpieces.

Serves4

HIGH-SPEEDHAMBURGERWITHFASTFRIES

Iadoreaproperburger,butitdoesneedtobeaproperone.AndalthoughI’vebeensuccessfulinvariousversions,I’venevermadeonethathasbeeneitherquickorveryconvincing-looking.Luckily,myloveofgadgetry,combinedwithmycatalogue-compulsion,ledtothis:theperfectburger,inrecordtime.Iusesomethingcalled,straightforwardly,aBurgerPress.Youlineitwithalittlediscofwaxedpaper(thesediscscomewithit)andthenputinyour4ozofmeat,putanotherdiscontop,andpress.Youwillnotbelievehowmuchitmakesyouwanttoworkinaburgerfactory.

Ihadalwaysthoughtthatleanmeatmadetoughburgers,butaftermuchexperimentation,Ifoundthatthebestmeatforburgersisonethatissoldas“extralean,”whichmeansthatithas,typically,amere5percentfat.IuseAberdeenAngus.

Thefastfriesarenotasprofessionallookingastheburgers,butareeverybitassatisfyingtomake.Theycertainlyhelpyouridyourselfoftheday’sirritations.

8ozextraleangroundbeef1tablespooncaramelizedonionsfromajar1½teaspoonsbuttermilkorplainyogurt1½teaspoonssoysauce

1½teaspoonsWorcestershiresaucegoodgrindingofpeppervegetableoilforbrushing

1Mixthegroundbeefwiththeonions,buttermilk,soysauce,andWorcestershiresauce.Seasonwithpepper,thendivideintwoandformintotwopatties,eitherusingapressorbyhand.

2Heataridgedgriddleandlightlybrushtheburgerswithoil.Cooktheburgersfor2minutesonthefirstside,andthenflipthemandcookthemforanotherminute.Removeandletstandforaminuteortwo;thiswillgiveyoumedium-rareburgers.

3Servewiththefastfriesandsandwichinatoastedbun,ifyouwish,andaddlettuce,meltedbluecheese,andbaconorafried,poached,orsquishedsoft-boiledegg,asyoulike.

FASTFRIES

¼cupvegetableoil9oznewpotatoes

1Placethepotatoesinafreezerbagandhitthemwitharollingpinuntiltheyarebrokenintopieces.

2Heatafryingpanwiththeoiluntilhot,thenaddthepotatoesandcookfor5–6minutesasidewiththepanpartiallycovered.

3Removethepotatoestoaplatelinedwithpapertowels.

Serves2

HAMSTEAKSWITHPARSLEY

OfcourseI’mtemptedtodoahamsteakwithpineapple,andIwouldn’tbegintostopyou,butIreallythinkparsleyisthekeyhere.WhenI’vegottime,Iamhappytostandatthestovewhiskinguparoux,andstirring,stirring,stirringtousherforththeperfectvelvetyparsleysauce,butaquickflickofparsleyinapanworksinamoresprightlyway.

I’mallforpeasasanaccompaniment,andalwayshaveastashoffrozenonesattheready.Nevertheless,it’shardformetoforswearacanofluridlygreenmarrowfatpeashere.Yes,theyareprocessedandI’dprefernottoreadtheingredientslistonthebackofthecan,butIcan’thelplovingthem.Acanorjarofthosesmall,gray-greenFrenchpeaswouldbeanexcellentsubstituteforthoselackingmylowtastes.Orcookanddrainsomefrozenpeas,blendingthemwithalittleParmesan,pepper,andmascarpone.

2teaspoonsgarlicoil2cooks’hamsteaks,approx.7ozeach2tablespoonswhitewinevinegar¼cupwaterlotsoffreshlygroundpepper2teaspoonshoney¼cuproughlychoppedparsley

1Inalarge-ishskillet,heatthegarlicoilandwhenhotaddthehamsteaksandcookforabout3minutesaside.Removetotwowarmeddinnerplates.

2Takethepanofftheheat.Whiskthevinegarwiththewater,pepper,andhoneyandquicklythrowintothestill-hotpanalongwithmostoftheparsley.Swirlandstirandscrapetomixandpouroverthehamsteaks.

3Addthevegetableofyourchoice,inmyunembarrassedonetheultragreenprocessedpeas,andsprinkletherestoftheparsleyoverthetwoplatesoffoodbeforetuckingin.

Serves2

MIRIN-GLAZEDSALMON

Thismustbethefastestpossiblewaytocreateaculinarysensation.Youdoscarcelyathing—justdipsomesalmonsteaksinadarkglossypotion,mostofwhichyougetoutofjars—andwhatyoumaketastesasifyouhadbeendedicatinghalfyourlifetoachievingtheperfectcombinationofsweet,savory,tender,andcrisp.

Ifthereareonlytwoofyoueating,Iwouldbeinclinedtosticktoquantities,lettingacoupleofpiecesorwhateveryoudon’teatcool,asitmakesafantasticsaladthenextday.

Myfavoriteaccompanimenthereissushirice,andsinceIamweddedtomyricecooker,thisisnoworkandneedsnoskillwhatsoever.Justcookriceofyourchoice—ornoodlesifyouprefer—accordingtoinstructionsonthepackageifyouarecruellyrice-cookerless.

¼cupmirin(Japanesesweetricewine)¼cuplightbrownsugar¼cupsoysauce44-ozpiecesofsalmon,cutfromthethickpartofthefilletsothattheyarenarrowbuttallratherthanwideandflat2tablespoonsricevinegar

1–2scallions,halvedandshreddedintofinestrips

1Mixthemirin,sugar,andsoyinashallowdishthatwillholdall4piecesofsalmon,andmarinatethesalmoninitfor3minutesonthefirstsideand2minutesonthesecond.Meanwhile,heatalargeskilletonthestove.

2Cookthesalmoninthehot,drypanfor2minutesandthenturnitover,addthemarinade,andcookforanother2minutes.

3Removethesalmontowhateverplateyou’reservingiton,andaddthericevinegartothehotpan.

4Pourthedark,sweet,saltyglazeoverthesalmonandtopwiththescallionstrips.Servewithriceornoodlesasyouwish,andconsiderputtingsomesushigingeronthetable,too.

Serves4

TUNASTEAKSWITHBLACKBEANS

Freshtunaisgoodonlywhenit’sscarcely,ifatall,cooked;onceitsCarpaccioredfleshturnstothatgraymauve,youhaven’tgotdinnerinfrontofyou,butadisaster.This,ofcourse,istoouradvantagehere.Indeed,ittakesmarginallylongertoopenacanofbeans,drainthem,anddousethemindressingthanitdoestocookthefish.Sometomatosaladalwaysworks,too;hereI’vespoonedupsomeleftoverMoonblushTomatoes,oftheroughlychoppedratherthancherry-halvedvariety(seehere).

It’snotsurprising,then,thatImakethisvery,veryoftenforsupper.Igetthetunasteaksonmyweeklyassaultonthesupermarketandfeeljustthatlittlebitcalmertheminutethey’resafelyinmyfridge.

2teaspoonslimejuice1teaspoonfishsauce(nampla)2teaspoonschileoil1teaspoonhoney114-ozcanblackbeans2tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro2thin-cuttunasteaks,approx.4ozeach½teaspoonkoshersalt

1Heataridgedgriddleandwhileit’sheatingup,getonwiththeblackbeansalad.

2Inabowl,whiskthelimejuice,fishsauce,chileoil,andhoney.

3Drainthebeansandrinsethemtoremovegloop,thentosstheminthedressingtocoatwell.Addmostofthecilantroanddividebetweentwowaitingdinnerplates.

4Slapthetwothintunasteaksonthegriddleandcookfor30secondsaside.Ifthetunasteaksarenotverythin,youmaywanttogivethemanother30secondseachside;cutintoonetocheckthatit’scookedasyoulikeitbeforeplacingthetunaontheplatewiththebeans,addingtomatoesoranyothersaladyoulike.Sprinklethetunasteakswithsomecoarsesalt(nottablesalt).

Serves2

SCALLOPSANDCHORIZO

I’velongbeenafanofscallopsandbaconandscallopswithchile,andthisismycombinationofthetwo,usingchorizo—thesausage,notthesalami—tooozeitspaprikahotorangeoiloverthesweet,whitescallops.It’squickerthanthespeedoflighttomakeandquiteasdazzling.

4ozchorizosausage1lbsmallscallops(halvethemtomake2thinnerdiscsiftheyareveryfat)juiceofhalfalemon¼cupchoppedfreshparsley

1Slicethechorizointoroundsnothickerthan1/8inch.

2Putapanonthestovetogethotandthendry-fry(thechorizowillgiveoutplentyofitsownoil)thechorizoroundsuntilcrispedoneitherside;thisshouldtakenomorethan2minutes.

3Removethechorizotoabowlandfrythescallopsinthechorizooilforaboutaminuteaside.

4Returnthechorizotothepanwiththescallops,addthelemonjuice,andletbubbleforafewsecondsbeforearrangingonaservingplateandsprinklingwithlotsofparsley.

Serves4asamaincoursewiththechickpeasandarugulathatfollow;wouldbefinewithjustalittleleafagefor8asastarter

CHICKPEASWITHARUGULAANDSHERRY

Thisisnotquiteastir-fry,thoughIdocookitinmywok.Thechickpeasgetsousedwiththesherryandinfusedwithcumin,andthearugula,orrathertangleofgreenthingsthatcomeinthepackagecalled“arugulasalad”atmysupermarket,wiltleggilyinthepan.Thisturnsthechorizoandscallopsintoafeistilyelegantmaincourse,andisausefulwayofprovidingaquick,fillingbowlofnot-the-usualvegetableswheneveryouwantaboost.

1tablespooncanolaorothervegetableoil2teaspoonscuminseeds214-ozcanschickpeas,drainedandrinsed8cupsarugulasaladorothertendermixedgreens¼cuprichcreamsherry

1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt

1Heattheoilandcuminseedsinawok.

2Addthechickpeas,greens,sherry,andsalt,giveagoodstir,andcontinuestirringoverheatuntilthearugulaandanyotherleaveshavewilted,thechickpeashavewarmedthrough,andtheliquidhasreducedalittle.

Serves4asanaccompanimenttothemaincourse,butyoucouldeatitbyitselftoserve2,withorwithoutapoachedorsquishedsoft-boiledeggeachontop

NECTARINEANDBLUEBERRYGALETTE

Agaletteisjustafancywayofsaying“Thisisapie,butdon’tgetyourhopesup.”Notthatthisisn’tgood—it’sverygoodindeed—butitisnotaperfectspecimen.Inaway,itsrawmaterialsarenotsoverydifferentfromthetartefineauxpommeshere,butwhereasthereeverythingisorderly,hereit’sallthrowntogether.Suitsme.

Onehalf(1sheet)ofa17.2-ozpackageall-butterstoreboughtpuffpastry,measuring9½x9½inches1tablespoonplus1teaspoonapricotconserveorlow-sugarapricotjam1tablespoonplus1teaspoonheavycream

1smallnectarine,cutinto12segments⅔cupblueberries1½teaspoonsDemerarasugar

1Preheattheovento450°F.

2LaythepuffpastrysheetoutontoabakingsheetlinedwithbakingparchmentorSilpatandusingthepointofasharpknife,scoreaframearoundtheedge,about¾inchin.

3Inasmallbowl,mixtogethertheapricotconserveandcreamandpaintorspreadthisonthepastrywithintheframe.

4ArrangethefruitontopandsprinklewiththeDemerarasugarbeforebakingfor15minutes.

5Cutintosquaresandeatwhilestillwarm.

Makes9slabs

INSTANTCHOCOLATEMOUSSE

Normally,youneedtomakechocolatemousseagoodfewhoursor,betterstill,aday,beforeyouwanttoeatit,sothattheeggyolksetsandthewhiskedwhitespermeateeverythingwithairbubbles.Forgetthat:Herewehavenoyolks,nowhites,nowhisking,nowaiting.

Lackofrawegg,incidentally,alsomeansthatyoumightbehappiergivingthemoussetosmallchildren,thoughIcertainlyfeeltheyshouldnotbetheonlybeneficiaries.

1½cupsminimarshmallows4tablespoons(½stick)softbutter9ozbest-qualitysemisweetchocolate,choppedintosmallpieces¼cuphotwaterfromarecentlyboiledkettle1cupheavycream

1teaspoonvanillaextract

1Putthemarshmallows,butter,chocolate,andwaterinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.

2Putthesaucepanonthestoveoverfairlygentleheattomelt,stirringeverynowandagain.Removefromtheheat.

3Meanwhile,whipthecreamwiththevanillauntilthickandthenfoldintothecoolingchocolatemixtureuntilyouhaveasmooth,cohesivemixture.

4Pour/scrapeinto4glassesorsmalldishes,about¾cupeachincapacity,or6smaller(½cup)ones,andchilluntilyouwanttoeat.Thesoonerthebetter!

Serves4–6

CHOCOLATEPEANUTBUTTERFUDGESUNDAE

I’vesavedthisforlast,andforgoodreason:itistheultimateicecreamsundae.Obviously,ifyou’renotapeanut-eater,itwon’tbeforyou,butforeveryoneelseitisthestuffofdreams.LasttimeImadethissauce,Inearlyhadtomakeanotherbatch,I’deatensomuchbeforeevengettingtheicecreamsoutofthefreezer.

Talkingofwhich,obviouslyyoushouldchoosewhicheverflavorsoficecreamyouwant.Evenifyouarereducedtojustplain-old,sameold-vanilla,youhaveapartyrighthere.

Imadeajarofthisforafriendtotakehomeforhersupperrecently.Assoonasshe’dhaditshesentatextsaying”Bottlethatsauce,makemillions.”Wellmaybe,butuntilthen,here’stherecipe.

Andyoushouldknowthatthisisjustasirresistibleasastorecupboardspecial,ifyoureplacethesyrupandcreamwith¾cupofsweetenedcondensedmilk,whiskingin¼cupofhotwaterfromthekettlebeforepouringtheglossysauceoutofthepan.

¾cupheavycream4ozmilkchocolate,chopped½cupsmoothpeanutbutter(Skippyforpreference)3tablespoonsgoldensyruporlightcornsyrup4scoopstoffeeorcaramelicecream

4scoopschocolateicecream4scoopsvanillaicecream¼cupsaltedpeanuts,roughlychoppedorleftwhole,totaste

1Putallthecream,choppedchocolate,peanutbutter,andgoldensyrupintoasaucepanandputitontheheattomelt,stirringoccasionally.Inabout2minutesyoushouldhaveyoursauceready.

2Getoutfoursundaeglassesandputascoopoftoffeeorcaramelicecreamineach,followedbyoneofchocolateandthenanotherofvanilla.

3Pouroversomechocolatepeanutbutterfudgesauceandsprinklewithsaltedpeanuts.

4Handthemround.

Serves4veryluckypeople

AlthoughIknow,fromsadexperience,thatcomforteatingdoesnotrelyonlengthypreparations,butratherafrenziedassaultonthefridge,comfortfoodcannoteasilyberushed.Afewingredients,throwntogetherinsprightlyfashion,canmakeafabuloussupper,butdoesn’tguaranteetheenvelopingcozinesswearesometimeshungryfor.ButIcan’tignorethegenre;itplaystooimportantapartinlife.

It’snothardtothinkupinstant-eatingideas—warmtoast,spreadwithtoomuchbutterandasprinklingofcinnamonandsugar;afamily-sizedbarofmilkchocolate;icecreamstraightfromthetub;packagedricepudding—butthecomforttheyseemtopromiseiselusive,andonegenerallyendsuphatingoneselfandfeelingsickintothebargain.Iwantcomfortfoodthatreallydoescomfort,thatfeedsmeafteralong,difficultdayandhelpsmefeelgoodaboutliferatherthanmakingmewanttoescapefromit.

This,anyway,istheaim.Butyes,IdoknowthatsomeoftherecipesthatfollowarepreciselyforthesortsoffoodthatIcouldn’targueintoanykindofdietplanorganizedbythehealthyeatingbrigade.Ican’tdefendmydoughnutFrenchtoastfromanutritionalpointofview,certainly,butIknowithastoexist.

Thesearerecipesfortheworldasitis,forusasweare.Ican’talwaysbeworryingabouthowweshouldbelivingoreating.I’mhungrynow.

CHOWDERWITHASIANFLAVORS

Thisistheperfectsupperonthosedayswhenaknifeandforkseemlikejusttoomuchwork.It’sinstantlycomforting,butislivelyenoughtomakeonefeelinvigoratedratherthanstultifiedbyeatingit.Andalthoughtomany,replacingthemilkwithcoconutmilk,dispensingwiththeflourandbutter,theroux,altogether,andtakingtheSoutheastAsianrouteratherthanthetraditionalone,mightseemanabomination,Iloveitsomuchbetterthantheanywaymorelaborious-to-prepareoriginal.

Childrenmaypreferthelimereducedandthechileremoved.Ithinkitisperfectionasitis.

3cupschickenstock/broth(notinstant)1lbbakingpotatoesor2medium-sized,peeledandcutinto¼-inchcubestomake2½cups4ozbabyleeks,slicedinto½-inchlengthstomake1cup4ozbabycorn,cutinto¼-inchslicestomake1¼cups2bayleaves

1teaspoongroundmace114-ozcancoconutmilk1lb4ozskinlesssmokedcodfillets,cutinto1-inchcubes¼cuplimejuice8ozsmallormediumfrozenshrimp1½cupscannedsweetcorn,drained1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt1longredchile,deseededandfinelychopped½cupchoppedfreshcilantro

1Bringthestocktoaboilinamedium-sizedpan.Cookthechoppedpotatoes,leeks,andbabycorninthestockwiththebayleavesandmaceforabout10minutesoruntiltender.

2Addthecoconutmilk,thechoppedsmokedfish,andthelimejuice.Bringthepanbacktoaboilandletitsimmerforaminuteorso.

3Tipintheshrimpandsweetcornandonceagainletitcomebacktoaboiltoheatthemthrough.Seasonwiththesaltandthenserve.

4Decorateeachbowlwithsomechoppedchileandpungent,leafycilantro.

Serves4

Serves4

NOODLESOUPFORNEEDYPEOPLE

Ihavetosay,tobeprescriptiveaboutanoodlesoupseemstobeagainsttheethosofwhatyou’reactuallycooking.WhenIneedanoodlesoup,believemeIaminnomoodtostartweighingandmeasuring.Iheatsomebroth,ofsomedescriptionorother,andthrowinavarietyofvegetablesthatareskulkingaboutinthefridgeandthemostsoothingnoodlesIcanfind.Youcanaddotherthings,somechickenstripsor,attheend,somefineragsofrawtunaorsalmon,butIgenerallywantthevegetablybrothandnoodlesbythemselves.Theproteinelement,whilesodesirableinsomanywaysI’msure,isnotwhatI’mafterhere.

Butanyway,Ithrowdownablueprinthere.Don’tgetcaughtupinit,butfollowitifitfeelshelpful.

6ozudonnoodles(dried,fromapackage)3cupschickenorvegetableordashibroth2tablespoonssoysauce

1teaspoonsoftdarkbrownsugar1staranise1teaspoonmincedfreshginger¾cupbeansprouts¾cupsugarsnaps¾cupslicedshiitakemushrooms½cupfinelyslicedbabybokchoy2tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro

1Cookthenoodlesaccordingtothepackageinstructionsandwhiletheirwaterisboiling,fillanearbysaucepanwithstock,soysauce,sugar,staranise,andginger.(Whenthenoodlesaredone,justdrainthemandputhalfineachbowl.)

2Whentheflavoredstockcomestoaboil,addthevegetables.Theyshouldbecookedbefore2minutesareup.

3Pourhalfintoeachbowl,overthecookedanddrainednoodles,andsprinklewithcilantro.

Serves2forsupper

BUTTERNUTSQUASHANDSWEETPOTATOSOUP

EversinceIovercamemyprejudicesagainstbuyingprechoppedfruitandveg,mycookinglifehasgotalotsimpler.Andyoushouldknow(hopeI’mnotsoundingtoodefensivehere)thatItaliangrocersregularlysellpeeledandpreparedvegetablesbaggeduptomaketheircustomers’lifesimpler.

Thesesquashandsweetpotatodicecertainlymakeminesimpler;aquarterofanhour’sbubblingwithsomestockandsomespice,andsweetsuccoristohand.Sometimesyouarenotinthemoodtowait.

2½cupsdicedbutternutsquashandsweetpotato3cupshotchickenorvegetablestock¼teaspoongroundcinnamon

¼teaspoongroundmacegoodgrindingofpepper4teaspoonsbuttermilk

1Putthedicedbutternutsquashandsweetpotatoinasaucepanwiththestockandspices.

2Bringtoaboil,andthensimmerfor15minutesoruntilthevegetablesaretender.

3Pureethesoupinablender.Youwillfindthatbyremovingthecenternozzleonthelidandplacingahandtowelorteatoweloverthetop,youwillnotgetabuildupofpressureandanexplosionofsouponyourwallsoroveryou.

4Pourtheblendedsoupintotwobowls,decoratingeachbowlwithswirlsmadewith2teaspoonsofbuttermilk.

Serves2—or1ingreatneedofsolace

RIB-STICKINGSTIR-FRY

It’sabsolutelytruethatthrowingeverythinginawokcanbeaveryquickwaytogetsupperonthetable,buttherearetimeswhenwhat’swantedissomethingaltogethermoresubstantialthanthevirtuouslyOrientalculinarytraditionsallow.Thereisagoodamountofmeat—eitherturkeyorchicken,Iusebothinterchangeably—andIthrowinacanofcannellinibeansratherthangoingtothe,admittedlynotreallydemanding,lengthsofcookinganddrainingsomenoodlesandthrowingthemin.Curiously,itworks.Butthen,foodthatcanbeeatenoutofabowl,withaspoon,alwaysofferssuccor.

2tablespoonsvegetableoil10ozchickenorturkeybreastfillet,cutinto1½inchx¼inchstrips4cupschoppedstir-fryvegetables(fromapackage)¼cupsoysauce

¼cupChinesecookingwine114-ozcancannellinibeans,drained1tablespoonchoppedfreshcilantroorparsley

1Heattheoilinawok,andoverfairlyhighheataddthechickenorturkeystripsandtossthemabouttocolor.

2Oncethemeathasseared,addthevegetablesandtossaroundagainuntilbeginningtosoften,thenaddthesoysauceandthewine.Thesoywillhelpthemeatstripsbronzebeautifully.

3Oncetheheatisbackupandsizzling,addthebeansandtosseverythingabouttomixbeforetippingontotwoplates.

4Sprinklewiththeherbandservestraightaway.

Serves2

RAPIDRAGU

Muchtomyhusband’shorror,whenIamfeelingfragileandinneedofcozinessandcomfort,myfavoritesupperisabowlofgroundmeatwithsomegratedcheeseontop,eatenbygreedy,gratefulspoonfulsoutofacerealbowl.

Ihavedispensedwithmuchoftheusual,necessarychopping:Iusecubesofpancetta(orcubettidipancetta,asthey’resoldatmylocalsupermarket)andalittlesweetonionconfitfromajar.Thisiseverythingyoucouldhopefor,sweetlysalvingandasundemandingtomakeasitisrewardingtoeat.

2tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil1cupcubedpancetta1lbgroundlamb114-ozcanchoppedtomatoes½cupwater⅓cupMarsalawine⅓cupgreenlentils¼cupsweetonionconfit½cupgratedredLeicesterorCheddarcheese,optional

1Heattheoilinawide,medium-sizedsaucepan,andfrythepancettauntilitbeginstocrisp.

2Addthelamb,breakingitupwithaforkinthebaconypanasitbrowns.

3Tipinthetomatoes,water,Marsala,lentils,andcaramelizedonionsandbringtoaboil.

4Simmertheragufor20minutes,stirringoccasionally.Sprinklethecheeseontopbeforeserving,ifusing.

Serves4

CHICKEN,MUSHROOM,ANDBACONPIE

Eventhewordpieiscomforting.Butthen,itwouldbehardtodenytheveryreallureofpastry,especiallywhen—ashere—youknowyou’regoingtodunkitingraviedjuicestillitsgorgeouslightnessisdeliciously,soggilyheavy.Iconcede,however,thatmakingandrollingoutyourownpastryisnotnecessarilythespeediestoption,soIusebought,all-butterready-rolledfrozenpuffpastryandfeelfineaboutit.

Imakethepieeveneasier,bybrowningthechickenandmakingthesauceallinonego.Andagold-crusted,welcomingpiefortwoinhalfanhourisnotbadgoing.

3slicesbacon,cutorscissoredinto1-inchstrips1teaspoongarlic-infusedoil2cupscreminimushrooms,slicedinto¼-inchpieces12boneless,skinlesschickenthighs,eachcutinto2-or3-inchpieces2½tablespoonsflour

½teaspoondriedthyme1tablespoonbutter1¼cupshotchickenstock1tablespoonMarsalawineHalfa17.2ozpackage(one9½x9½-inchsheet)thawedallbutterready-rolledfrozenpuffpastry

1Preheattheovento425°F.Frythebaconstripsintheoiluntiltheybegintocrisp,thenaddtheslicedmushroomsandsoftentheminthepanwiththebacon.

2Turnthechickenstripsintheflourandthyme(youcouldtossthemaboutinafreezerbag),andthenmeltthebutterinthepanbeforeaddingtheflourychickenandalltheflourleftinthebag.Stiraroundwiththebaconandmushroomsuntilthechickenbeginstocolor,about25minutes.

3PourinthehotstockandMarsala,stirringtoformasauce,andletthisbubbleawayforabout5minutes.

4Taketwo1¼cuppie-pots(ifyoursaredeeper,don’tworry,therewillsimplybemorespacebetweencontentsandpuffpastrytop)andmakeapastryrim

foreachone–bythisImeananapprox.½-inchstripcurledaroundthetopofeachpot.Dampentheedgeswithalittlewatertomakethepastrystick.

5Cutacirclebiggerthanthetopofeachpie-potforthelid,andthendividethechickenfillingbetweenthetwo.

6Dampentheedgesagainandthenpoponthetopofeachpie,sealingtheedgeswithyourfingersortheunderneathoftheprongsofafork.

7Cookthepiesforabout20minutes,turningthemaroundhalfwaythroughcooking.Oncecooked,theyshouldpuffupmagnificently.

Serves2

CHEDDARCHEESERISOTTO

Thisisthefirstofmyholytrinityofcheese-richcomfortfoods.Thereisjustsomethingaboutmeltedcheese,thatperfectgoo,thatseemstosoothethesoulandbolsterthebody.

ThismightseemoddtoItalians(oneofthereasonsitisnotintheHeyPrestochapter)butitworksbeautifully:ThestarchyriceandthesharpCheddararetheperfectcounterpointforeachother.

Imakethis,too,ondayswhenIneedtoescapetothekitchenandhaveagood,quiet,relaxing,andmindless20minutesstaringintothemiddledistanceandstirring.Iheartilyrecommendit.

1tablespoonbutter1tablespoonvegetableoil2babyleeksor2fatscallions,finelysliced1½cupsrisottorice½cupwhitewine½teaspoonDijonmustard4cupshotvegetablestock1cupchoppedCheddarcheese2tablespoonschoppedchives

1Meltthebutterandoilinamedium-sizedpanandcooktheslicedbabyleeksorscallionsuntilsoftened.

2Addtherisottoriceandkeepstirringforaminuteorso,thenturnuptheheatandaddthewineandmustard,stirringuntilthewineisabsorbed.

3Startladlinginthehotstock,lettingeachladlefulbecomeabsorbedasyoustirbeforeaddingthenextone.

4Stirandladleuntilthericeisaldente,about18minutes,thenaddthecheese,stirringitintothericeuntilitmelts.

5Takethepanstraightofftheheat,stillstirringasyoudo,andthenspoonintowarmeddishes,sprinklingwithsomeofthechoppedchives.

Serves2asamaincourseor4asastarter

MACANDCHEESE

Howcanyouhaveachapteroncomfortfoodwithoutarecipeformacandcheese?ButIknewtherewasafundamentalflaw:Makingarouxandawhitesauce,forthebase,isnoteveryone’sideaofhavingarelaxingtime;Irealizethatmyregularlyself-administeredstirringtreatmentisnottobeprescribedtoeveryone.

This,then,istheshortcutversion:nocheesesauce,butagorgeouslyhugeamountofcheese,boundwitheggandevaporatedmilk.Yum.

8ozmacaroni2cupscoarselychoppedmatureCheddarorredLeicestercheese,oramixtureofboth1cupevaporatedmilk

2eggsgratingoffreshnutmeg

1Preheattheovento425°F.Cookthemacaroniaccordingtothepackageinstructions,drain,andthenputbackintothehotpan.

2Whilethepasta’scooking,putthecheese,evaporatedmilk,eggs,andnutmeginaprocessorandblitztomix.Orgratethecheeseandmixeverythingbyhand.

3Pouroverthemacaroni,stirwell,andseasontotaste.

4Tipintoa10-inch-diameterdish(wideandshallowisbest)andbakeforabout10–15minutesoruntilitisbubblingandblisteringontop.

Serves4

GRILLEDCHEESEANDSLAW

Bygrilledcheese,ofcourse,Imeanagrilledcheesesandwich,andIaddtheslaw,bothbecauseIloveitandbecausethatwayIdon’tfeelsobadaboutmakingthisforsupper.Andthat’swhatworksforme.OtherwiseI’djusthavemysupperandthenthis.

Mindyou,itissogoodthatIcouldneverregretit,howevertightthedressImighthavetowearthenextday.

Themethodisslightlyodd,butit’swhatworksforme.

4slicesrealwhitebread,i.e.,cutfromaloaf2teaspoonsmayonnaise½teaspoonWorcestershiresauce3ozCheddarcheese,thinlysliced1tomato,thinlyslicedpepper2teaspoonsregularoliveoil(notextravirgin)SandwichSlaw,below

1Heataridgedgriddlepanorstovetopgriddle.

2Getoutthebread.MixthemayowiththeWorcestershiresauceandspreadonthe4slices.

3NowdividetheCheddarandtomatobetween2slicesofbread,grindoversomepepper,andtopwiththeother2slices.

4Graspingeachsandwichinonehand,usetheothertodipapastrybrushintheoilandbrushtheoutsideofthesandwichwiththeoil;proceedwiththesecondsandwich.

5Putthesandwichesonthenow-hotgriddleandputaskilletontoptoweightthem,thenaddheavycansofsouporjarsofpicklesor,amusingly,someexerciseweights,andgrillpinneddownlikethisfor2minutesaside.

6Removetotwowaitingplates.Servewithslaw,ifdesired.

Serves2

SANDWICHSLAW

1RedDeliciousapple,coredandchoppedinstriplikeshapes1carrot,cutintomatchsticks2cupsfinelyslicedorshreddednapacabbage2tablespoonsmayonnaise

1tablespoonmangochutney1tablespoonlemonjuice½teaspooncarawayseeds¼teaspoonkoshersaltorpinchoftablesalt

1Putthestripsofappleandcarrotintoalargebowlwiththeshreddedcabbageandtosstomix.

2Inanother,smallbowl,mixthemayo,chutney,lemonjuice,carawayseeds,andsalt.Pourthisoverthesaladinthebigbowlandmixwelltocombineandcoatbeforearrangingontotheplatesofsandwiches.

Serves2

JUMBLEBERRYCRUMBLE

Sinceyouneverknowwhenyoumightbeinurgentneedofacrumble,Imakeupenoughforatleastfourandletitsitsafelyinthedeepfreezeuntilrequired.Sprinkleoveryourfruitofchoiceasitisandcookfromfrozen.Couldscarcelybeanyeasier,couldit?

Asforthefruit,Itakeallchoppingoutoftheequationandgiveitparitywiththecrumbletoppingbyusingfrozenmixedsummerfruits;“jumbleberry”isjustanoldEnglishtermforwhatevermixtureofberrieswereusedinjamsorpuddingsorjellies.

FORTHECRUMBLETOPPING:⅔cupflour½teaspoonbakingpowder4tablespoons(½stick)coldbutter,cutintosmallcubes3tablespoonsDemerarasugar

1Puttheflourandbakingpowderintoabowlandrubinthecubesofbutterwithyourfingersuntilyouhaveamixturelikecoarsesand.Thisissuchasmallamount,it’snotreallyworthgettingouttheheavymachinery.

2Stirinthesugarandthenputintoafreezerbagtofreeze.

3Thismixturewouldmake4jumbleberrycrumblesinthecups(asinthephotototheleft),andabout8ramekins.

TOMAKEONECRUMBLE-IN-A-CUP(approx.1¼-cupcapacity):¾cupfrozensummerfruits1teaspooncornstarch2teaspoonsvanillasugarorgranulatedsugarandadropofvanilla½cupfrozencrumbletopping

TOMAKETHECRUMBLEINARAMEKIN:generous¼cupfrozensummerfruits½teaspooncornstarch1½teaspoonsvanillasugarorgranulatedsugarandadropofvanilla3tablespoonsfrozencrumbletopping

1Preheattheovento425°F.Putthesummerfruitsineitheracuporaramekin

andsprinkleoverthecornstarchandsugar.Stiraroundalittle.

2Sprinkleoverthefrozencrumbletoppingandbakethecupfor20minutesandtheramekinfor15minutes.

Serves1

ROLY-POLYPUDDING

Ifeelbetterjustcontemplatingthis.Yougetthecomfortofasyruppuddingusuallysteamedformany,manyhoursin30minutes.Andyoudopracticallynothingtomakeit:Rollouthalfa13ozpackageofgoodstore-boughtpastry,oozegoldensyrupoverit,rollituplikeajellyroll,andtossitinadish,pouringonsomemilkbeforeputtingitintheoven.

Eatthiswitheithercreamoricecream:Whatever,itistheperfectSundaylunchdessert,thoughthereisagoodcaseforitanydayoftheweek.

6ozstore-boughtpiecrust¾cupgoldensyruporlightcornsyrup½cupwholemilk

1Preheattheovento400°F.Rolloutthepastrytoasizeapproximately7inchesx13inches.

2Pourthegoldensyrupontothepastrywitha¾-inchmarginaroundtheedge.

3Withabutteredovalgratindish(11incheslong)attheready,rollupthepastryfromtheshortsideintoafatsausage.

4Transfertothedish,puttingtheseamunderneath,andpourhalfofthemilkdownonesideoftheroly-polyandhalfdowntheotherside.

5Bakefor30minutes.

Serves4or1undercertainconditions

BUTTERFLYCAKES

ThesewerethefirstcakesIevermadeasachild—littlecupcakeswithadiscgougedoutoftheirpointy(ornot,andseeevidencetotheleft)tops,cutintwo,andthetwopiecesofcaketopsetinablobofbuttercreamlikeapairofbutterflywings.Iwasn’tmuchgoodatmakingthemlooklikebutterfliesthen,andIseeIhaven’timprovedany.Theonesherearemorebunnybunsthanbutterflycakes,buttheystillmakemefeelstrangelycomforted.Isay“strangely,”asthereisnothingcomfortingaboutthestateofchildhood.Butthen,thefalsesolacegainedfromlyingtoyourselfaboutthepastisprobablyanecessaryevil.

ButwhatamItalkingabout?Justmakethecakes.They’reveryeasy.Iwhipcreamwithfoodcoloringratherthanmakingbuttercream,andtakegreatcomfortintheirprettypastelness.

½cup(1stick)plus1tablespoonsoftbutter½cupplus1tablespoonsugar2eggs¾cupflour1teaspoonbakingpowder½teaspoonbakingsoda1teaspoonpurevanillaextract1tablespoonmilk1cupheavycreamfoodcoloringofyourchoice

1Preheattheovento400°Fandlinea12-cupmuffinpanwithpaperliners.

2Creamthebutterandsugareitherinabowlbyhandorwithanelectricmixer.

3Oncelightandfluffy,addtheeggsoneatatimewithalittleoftheflour,beatingasyougo.

4Foldintherestoftheflour,thebakingpowderandbakingsoda,andthevanilla,andfinallythemilk.

5Spoonthebatterintothepaperliners,dividingequally.

6Putintheovenandbakefor15–20minutesoruntilthecupcakesarecookedandgoldenontop.Takethecupcakesintheirpaperlinersoutofthepanandletcoolonawirerack.

7Oncethey’recool,cutoffthemoundedpeak(ifyourcakeshaveobliged),cuttingitinhalftomakethebutterflywings.Digdownalittlewithyourknife.Thiswillalsoleaveasmallholetoputthecreamtoholdthewings.Ifyourcakeshaven’tpeakedmuch,youwilljusthavetocutoutaslightlywidercircleafterthetop,digginginasyoudoso.Asyoucanseefromthepictures,thisworksjustaswell.

8Whipthecreamuntilthick,coloringwithfoodcoloringifyouwish,anddollopabout2teaspoonfulsofcreamontopofeachcake.

9Stickonyourbutterflywings,usingthecreamastheglue.

Makes12

DOUGHNUTFRENCHTOAST

Myweaknessesaremainlysavory—thinksaltandpotatochipsorcheeseandcrackers—buttherearetimeswhenonlyadoughnutwilldo.Thiscangetdesperatelateatnightwhentheshopsareshut,andeveniftheyweren’t,noneofthemsellthekindofdoughnutsIdreamof.Thisismywayofassuagingmyappetite,appeasingmyneed,or,perhapsmoreaccurately,feedingmyaddiction.Hotchocolateonthesideisalwaysworthconsidering,butjust—just!—byitselfthisissublimesuccor.

However,youcan,ifyoulike,turnthisintoadinnerpartydoughnut-allusivedessertbywhizzingup5ozhulledstrawberries,4tablespoonspowderedsugar,andaspritzoflemonjuiceintheblendertomakeasaucetopourorpuddleover.

2eggs¼cupwholemilk4teaspoonsvanillaextract4slicesfromasmallwhitebreadloafor2slicesfromalargewhiteloaf—eachlargeslicecutinhalf

2tablespoonsbutterplusadropofflavorlessvegetableoilforfrying¼cupsugar

1Beattheeggswiththemilkandvanillainawideshallowbowl.

2Soakthebreadhalvesintheeggymixturefor5minutesaside.

3Heatthebutterandoilinaskillet,andfrytheegg-soakedbreaduntilgoldenandscorchedinpartsonbothsides.

4Putthesugarontoaplateandthendredgethecookedbreaduntilcoatedlikeasugareddoughnut.

Serves2

TOTALLYCHOCOLATECHOCOLATECHIPCOOKIES

Alongwithchocolate,thereismuchcomforttobegleanedfromreadingcookbooks.Thisrecipecombinestwolovesbybeingchocolatytothepointofmadnessandhavingrevealeditselftomeafteracozy,snuggled-downreadofElinorKlivans’gloriousBigFatCookies.WhatIdoismakeupthefullbatchofthese(hardtodivideitreally,sinceitcontainsonlyoneegg)andformall12moundedcookies,butbakeonlyhalfandfreezetheotherhalf.Ifreezetheminalittleshallowpanandoncethey’rehard,Ithrowtheminafreezerbag,sealit,andstashitbackinthefreezertobakethemunthawedatalaterdate.Thatway,I’vegot6chocolatecookiestokeepmyselfandmyfamilyhappywithoutanytimeoreffort.

ThisiswhatIcallaninvestment.Andit’sworthit—thesearethechocolatiestcookiesyouwillevercomeacross.

4ozsemisweetchocolate1cupflour¼cupunsweetenedcocoa,sifted1teaspoonbakingsoda½teaspoonsalt½cup(1stick)softbutter½cuplightbrownsugar¼cupgranulatedsugar1teaspoonpurevanillaextract1egg,coldfromthefridge2cupssemisweetchocolatemorselsordarkchocolatechips(2bags)

1Preheattheovento325°F.Meltthe4ozofchocolate.

2Measuretheflour,cocoa,bakingsoda,andsaltintoabowl.

3Creamthebutterandtwosugarsinanotherbowl.Iusemyfreestandingmixer,itselfasourceofcomforttome.Addthemeltedchocolateandmixtogether.

4Beatinthevanillaextractandcoldegg,andthenmixinthedryingredients.Finallystirinthechocolatechips.

5Scoopout¼cup–sizedmounds—anicecreamscoopandapaletteknifearethebesttoolsforthejob—andplaceonalinedbakingsheetabout2½inchesapart.Donotflattenthem.

6Bakefor18minutes,testingwithacaketestertomakesuretheycomeoutsemi-cleanandnotwetwithcakebatter.Ifyoupierceachocolatechip,tryagain.

7Leavetocoolonthebakingsheetfor4–5minutes,thentransferthemtoacoolingracktohardenastheycool.

Makes12

Sometimesyouhavepeopleoverforsupper,sometimesyouhaveaparty.Andthetroubleis,justbecauseyou’veplannedongivingthisparty,doesn’tmeanyouhavethetimetoprepareforit.Countyourselflucky.IknowthatIhaveperhapsanover-developedantipathytotheformalandfancy,butIdothinkthatnothavingverymuchtimetodoeverythingdoesmeanyouarelesslikelytogooverthetopandmorelikelytothrowapartythatyouandyourguestswillenjoymore.

Theproblemwiththoseincrediblydetailed,perfectionist-pleasingpartyplansisthattheycanreducethegueststomerecogsinthemachine.You’renotworriedaboutwhetherthey’rehavingagoodtime,justwhethereverything’sgoingaccordingtoplan.Soundfamiliar?

Ihavenothingagainstgettingoutthebestchinaandmakingthetablelookbeautiful,thoughI’mratheroftheopinionthatanytablegroaningwithfoodisbeautiful,crockerybedamned.Andasforapartythatinvolvesstandingupandpickingatthingsratherthansittingdownandfeastingonthem,thenIagreealleffortmustbemade.Butthisdoesn’tmeanyouhavetotaketwodaysoffworktomaketheplacelookthepart.I’mallforeasy,simpletouches.Idrapeallavailablesurfaces—bookshelves,mantelpieces,sidetables—withgrapesandassortedfruits,aimingonthewholetoevokethelusciousbounteousnessofaRomanbacchanalia;Iwantthegueststobesurroundedbyfruitfulplenty,asifwelcomingsumptuousnesswerejustspillingoutofeverycorner.

Flowers,Ithink,shouldbepresentbutmodest:Don’tgoinforflashy,expensivedisplaysbutratherchooseapanoplyofsmallerflowersthatwillfitinconcomitantlysmallervases.AndalthoughIsayvases,Imeanlittlebottles,canisters,beakers,andanyreceptaclethatinspires.Acaseinpoint:IliketousethosesmallglasspotsthatfancyFrenchyogurtscomein;and,eccentricasitsounds,emptycans—ofItaliantomatoes,olives,chestnuts,goldensyrup,exoticforeigningredients,especiallywhenthewriting’sinadifferentscript—makefabulousvases,particularlyinprofusion.AndIamforeverbuyingoddlittlejarsandcontainersfromeBaytodotabouttheplacewithasprigortwoofsomethingbeautiful.Remember,itdoesn’thavetobeflowers:Thinkparsley,rosemary,mint,andanyotherfoliageyoucangetyourhandson.Butwhateveryouuse,justbearinmindthatwhatworksmostistohaveasmanylittlepotsaspossiblescatteredaboutallovertheplace.Iratherlikegoingaboutthehousestrewingitwithfruitsandflowersandanythingbeauteous.Itgetsmeinapartymood.

withfruitsandflowersandanythingbeauteous.Itgetsmeinapartymood.Youneedtobepractical,too,sorememberplatesfordetritus,ashtrays—

sorrytooffendtheanti-tobaccolobby—stacksofnapkins(paperisfine).Mymothercouldneverresistfingerbowlseither,andthereissomethingtobesaidforfillingsmalldisheswithwarmwaterandasliceoflemon,anddropofrosewatertooifyou’reexoticallyinclined,butonthewholepeopletendnottousethemthesedayssoyourthoughtfulnessmaybewastedandyoumaybecastingpearlsbeforeswine,ifthat’snottoorudeawaytotalkaboutyourfriends.

KingsleyAmisoncesaidthatthethreemostdepressingwordsintheEnglishlanguagewere“RedorWhite?”andIthinkofthiseverytimeIthrowaparty.Itwaswhiskeyhewantedtodrink,butIdon’tthinkyouneedtosupplyspirits;justaddsomeotherdrinkthatseemstostrikeapartynote.Ifit’sarelativelyrestrainedassembly,intermsofnumber,thisiswhatIliketoget:lotsofdryfizzywineandmakesureitisreallyproperlychilledandthenlayoutadisplayofflavoredsyrups,thesortbarmenkeepbehindtheirbar,andyoucanpoureveryonetheirwineandletthemexperimentwiththesyrupoftheirchoice.MyMoninsyrups(bought,conveniently,onlinealongwithanyrecherchéliqueurIeverneed)arebeginningtolooklikesomeTechnicolorarmyadvancingacrossmykitchen;favorites(withmyfriends)tosplashintothesparklingwineareRose,Watermelon,Pomegranate,andPassionFruit.IbringoutadifferentrangeforChristmasparties(thinkCranberry,WinterBerry,ToffeeNut,andGingerbread,andseehereandhere)and,curiousIknow,Ilovetheminbeer.Speakingofwhich,ifyou’reservingbeeraswellatyourparty,whichIthinkyoushouldifit’ssummerorifdancingisinvolved,youmustmakesureit’ssocoldithurts.

Asforthefood,Ineverthinkyoushouldmakemassesofdifferentthings.Ithinkachoiceofthree,butthosethreeinabundance.Thoughwhateverbitsandpiecesyoudoofferpeopletoeat,Ithinkit’salwaysworthbakingtraysofcocktailsausagesinaddition.IwouldfeelIweren’tgivingaproperpartywithoutsausages.Puttingsausagesintheovenandthentakingthemoutagainscarcelycountsasworkeither.Ifyouwanttomakethingseasieronyourselfstill,usethrowawayaluminumfoilroastingpans.Ihavenothingagainstdottingtheroomwithboughtsnackythings,either.Youdon’thavetobeembarrassedaboutservingthoserathercompellingJapanesericecrackerssolongasyou’reprovidingrealfood,too.Myabsolutefavoritearethewasabi-coatedpeasyoucansometimesfindinspecialtyshops,buttheydoblowyourheadoff,soperhapsthey’renotforeveryone.

Sit-downdinnerswhenyouarefilledwiththedesiretodosomethingspecial

Sit-downdinnerswhenyouarefilledwiththedesiretodosomethingspecialbuthaven’tgotthetimetobackitupneedn’tposeaproblem.Again,Ithinkthatanythingthatstopsyouboningpartridgesorspinningsugarcanonlybeagoodthing.Ikeepthefoodsimple,butthemoodsumptuous.Myideaofrazzledazzleisnotthatyouareneed-ilytryingtoimpresseveryone,butratherthatyouareconjuringupaneveningthatwowswiththeleastamountofworkpossible.

Afinalnoteonthehardestpartofanyevensemi-formaldinner,theplacement.Ihate,hate,hatedrawingupseatingplans.Ifyoudoone,thenpeopleareanxiousabouttheirpositioninthepeckingorderandhowtheyfeelitisreflectedintheseatyou’veallocatedthem;ifyoudon’t,theyallhoveraboutnervously,notsittingdownorknowingwhattodo,andthenyouareobligedtoproduceinstantplacementoutofyourhead.Soit’sadisastereitherway.

Thisismywaythroughitall:InumbereachplaceandthenIfillahatwithanotherpileofnumbers(eitherbuybooksofraffleticketsormakeyourown)andgetpeopletotakeanumberontheirwayin.Thiswaytheyknowwheretositbutdon’tfeelsensitiveabouttheirposition.Ifyouliketokeepthingsgirl-boy-girl-boy—whichneverworriesme,Imustsay—thenjustdo,asitwere,apinksetofnumbersandabluesetofnumbersandtwohatsorreceptaclesbythedoor.Thereneedstobeasystem,evenifthatsystemisrandom.Suchislife.

GREENAPPLEMARTINI

Thisisacocktailwithakickandaddictivelydelicious.Ihavetosayitisenormouslyusefulasaquickshotofpartyspiritbeforeyougotosomeoneelse’sparty.Ialwaysfeelbetterthenextday,havingastiffdrinkbeforeandwater(sparklingratherthanstillbut,hey,let’slivealittle)duringaparty.

Althoughitisasourapplemartini,athomeIrefertoitonlyasKryptonite.Theluridgreenisquitesomething.

I’vegivenquantitiesperglasssimplybecauseit’sbettermadeupglassbyglassandyoucanhandthemaroundtoyourguestsastheyrequestthem.Iwouldn’twanttomaketheseforahugeroomfulofpeople,buttheyareperfectasawayofhelpingthosewho’vehotfootedfromtheofficeandarewearywiththeworkingdayunwindatthebeginningofadinnerparty.Ifyouwanthugepitcherstopassaround,eithergofortheWhiteLadyhereorthegorgeouslyredGingerPombelow.

1shotvodkaorgin1shotsourappleliqueur½shotMoninGreenApplesyrupsliceofGrannySmithappletogarnish

1Inamartiniglass,combinethevodka/ginoverlotsofice,andaddtheliqueurandsyrup.

2Sliceasegmentofapple,removinganycore.Cutanickinthebottomoftheslicehorizontally,andslipitontotheedgeoftheglass.

Serves1—andhow!

GINGERPOM

Thisdrinkstartedoffasmynonalcoholicalternativeforteetotalers(thoughobviouslywithouttheliqueur)andIstilldothat.ButthenIcameacrosssomepomegranateliqueurandIknewithadaplacehere.Byallmeanshavetwopitchers,onewiththeboozyversion,onewithjustjuiceandgingerale,butmakesureyouandotherpeoplecaneasilydistinguishbetweenthetwobyputting,say,limeslicesinthealcohol-freejug.Andineithercase,makesurethisisgoodandcold.

1partPamapomegranateliqueur2partspomegranatejuice2partsgingerale

WhatcanIsay?Mixtheseingredientstogetherandpouroverice.

POTATOCAKESWITHSMOKEDSALMON

I’vedonemanyversionsofpotatopancakesinmylife,butthishasgottobetheeasiest.IthinkIshockedmyselfbymakingitwithinstantpotatoflakes,butthere’salwaysgottobeafirsttime.Andtheytastewonderful,sothereisnoneedtofeelbad.Butifhavinganingredientlikethisinyourcupboardmakesyoufeeltootrailer-trashforwords,thengotosomeexpensivehealth-foodmarketandbuyapacketoforganicpotatoflakesinstead.Idounderstand.

Ihavetotellyouthatifyoumakethesewith1cuppotatoflakesandnoflourorbakingpowder,youwillhavethemoststodgilyfabuloussquatlittlecakestoeatforbreakfast.Thesearemightygoodforsoakingupexcess,thoughdelicious,fatsandjuices,althoughamoreelegantversionisrequiredhere.Servethematcocktailpartiesorlayoutthecomponentparts,addingalittlebowlofcrèmefraîcheorsourcreamonthetableforanappetizer.

3eggs½cupwholemilk2scallions,finelysliced2tablespoonsoliveoil¾cupinstantpotatoflakes¼cupflour½teaspoonbakingpowder½teaspoonlemonjuice12ozsmokedsalmonsmallbunchoffreshdill

1Inabatterbowlorsimilarcontainer,whisktheeggs,milk,finelyslicedscallions,andoliveoiltogether.

2Stirinthepotatoflakes,flour,bakingpowder,andthenfinallythelemonjuice.

3Heataflatgriddleanddroptablespoon-sizeddollopsofthemixtureontothehotgriddle.

4Cookforabout30secondsasideoruntilgoldenbrownandfirmenoughattheedgestoflip.

5Onceyouhavemadethepancakesandthey’vecooledalittle,tearofftiny

stripsofsmokedsalmonandarrangethesmallslicesoneachpancake.

6Decorateeachsalmon-toppedpancakewithatinyfeatherofdill.

Makes30

THEINSTANTCANAPÉ—QUICKCROSTINIWITHAVOCADO

ANDGREENPEAHUMMUS

IloveavocadosandI’vealreadyconfessedmyfaiblesseforprocessedpeas,soitstandstoreasonthatonedayIwasgoingtotrythemtogether.Itdoesn’tsoundaltogethermodesttosaythis,butitisatriumph.Icannottellyouhowquicklythesedisappear.

Notonlyistheavocadoandgreenpeahummusabreezetomake,butjusttoaddtoyourease,Isuggestyouuseapackageofpumpernickelroundsasthecrostinibase.Ifyoucan’tgetholdofthem,justbuyaslenderFrenchbaguetteorficelleandsliceandsoonashere.Buttheparty-pumpernickelshouldbeyourfirstchoice.

Byallmeanusethegreen-greenhummusasadipifyouwant,thoughyou’llneedlots(addaspoonfulortwoofcreamcheesewhenmixingtoo)andservesurroundedwithsugarsnappeas,slicedsweetpeppers,andothercruditésofyourchoice.

Itshouldgowithoutsayingthatyoucanreplacethecannedpeaswithfrozenpeas—orindeedfresh—whichyoucook,puree,andcoolbeforemixingwiththeavocado.Lovelybutnotveryexpress.

1ripeavocado2tablespoonslimejuice½clovegarlic,minced24.9-ozcanssweetgreenpeas,drained1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt30smallpumpernickelroundsor8regularpumpernickelslices,eachcutinto4littlesquares

1Spoonoutthefleshoftheavocadoandputitinafoodprocessor;addthelimejuiceandthegarlic.

2AddthedrainedpeasandsaltandthenprocessuntilyouhaveaKermit-coloredpuree.

3Spreadthepumpernickelroundssoftlywiththeavocadoandpeamixtureandarrangeonalargeplatterforserving.

Makes30

TUNAANDCRABWRAPS

Ihaveneverreallythoughtofmyselfasapersonwhocouldwrap,fold,orfiddleaboutwithfoodoreverfeltthatwayinclined.Butyouknow,whenyougetintoit,it’sreallyquiteOK—actually,morethanOK.Thesewrapsarecuriouslyrelaxingtoassembleandeveryoneisalwaysbowledoverbythem.They’reaverygoodwayofinjectingalittlezingintotheproceedingswithouthavingtoslaveforhoursoverahotstove.

IhaveaddedtheoptionofthecrabwrapsasIdounderstandnoteveryoneishappyworkingwithoreveneatingrawtuna.Butpleasedotrythoseones,too:Theyareactuallyaveryunspookyexperience.Justbesuretoaskafishdealerforsashimi-gradetunaandbuyitthedayyouwanttoeatit.

ForboththerecipesbelowI’vegiventhebasicunitofwrap;that’stosay,amountsaresufficienttofillonetortilla,whichinturnwillyield3piecesoncerolledandcut.

FORTHETUNAWRAPS:1teaspoonmayonnaise½teaspoonwasabipaste1or2dropssesameoil1softflourtortilla½carrot,peeledandcutintomatchstickstogive½cup¼cucumber,halvedlengthways,deseededandcutintomatchstickstogive½cup3oztuna-slicedinto -inchx¾-inchrectangles

1Whisktogetherthemayonnaise,wasabi,andsesameoilinasmallbowl,andpaintthetortillaononesidewiththismixture.

2Arrangearowofcarrotshorizontally¾inch–1¼inchesupfromthebottomofthetortillayouhaveinfrontofyou.

3Thenarrangethecucumberontopofthecarrotinthesameway,orasbestyoucan,asitmayslipdownalittle.

4Finally,topwiththeslicesoftuna,alsolayingthemhorizontallyasthismakesiteasytowrapup.

5Rollupthewrapastightlyasyoucan,startingfromthebottom.YouwanttoendupwithafatCubancigar.

6Cutacrosstherolledwrapdiagonallytomake3pieces.

FORTHECRABANDAVOCADOWRAPS:½cupwhitecrabmeat1teaspoonmayonnaise½teaspoonwasabipaste1or2dropssesameoil1softflourtortilla½avocado¼cupfinelyshreddediceberglettucesqueezeoflemonjuice

1Putthecrabmeatintoabowlandaddthemayonnaise,wasabipaste,andoilandstirtomix.

2Laythetortillainfrontofyouandputthecrabmeatinalinehorizontallyabout1inchupfromthebottomofthewrap.

3Taketheavocadohalfstillwithskinandscoopoutthefleshin½-teaspoonfulcurls,layingtheseontopofthelineofcrabmeat.

4Sprinkleoverthelettuceinaneatlinealso,andthenspritzwiththelemonjuice.

5Rolluptightlyfromthebottomtoformafatcigarandthensliceonanangleintothree.

Thetworecipescombinedmake6pieces

JUICYBEEFSKEWERSWITHHORSERADISHDIP

Thisisanotherrecipethatyoucanbringintoplayassomethingtoeatforpeoplewhoarestandingupmillingaround,orseatedatatableasafirstcourse.

Ifindfreshhorseradishincrediblyeasytocomebythesedays,butifyoudon’t,usesomehothorseradishsauceorcreamfromajar.

Ifyouwanttoservelambskewersalongside,thenusecubedleg,replacethehorseradishinthemarinadewithateaspooneachofgroundcuminandgroundcoriander,andmakeadipbymixinggoodstore-boughthummuswithGreek-styleplainyogurtanddrizzlethetopwithalittleoliveoilbeforescatteringwithsomepomegranateseeds.

1lbbeefrump¼cupoliveoil3tablespoonsfreshlygratedhorseradishorhothorseradishsauce2tablespoonsrosemaryneedlesor1teaspoondriedplusabunchofrosemaryfordecoration,optional1½tablespoonsgood-qualityredwinevinegar(otherwiseusebalsamicvinegar)2tablespoonsWorcestershiresauce2tablespoonsport

1cupcrèmefraîcheorsourcream½teaspoonDijonmustard¼teaspoonkoshersaltorcoarse-grindtablesalt¼cupchoppedchives

1Cutthebeefinto1-inchcubes,andputintoafreezerbagwiththeoliveoil,1tablespoongratedfreshhorseradishorhorseradishsauce,rosemary,vinegar,Worcestershiresauce,andport.Setasideforatleast20minutes,butpreferablyovernight,inthefridge.

2Letthemeatcometoroomtemperature,andsoakabout10bambooskewersinwateratthesametime.

3Makethedipbybeatingtogetherthecrèmefraîcheorsourcreamandtheremaining2tablespoonsoffreshlygratedhorseradishorhothorseradishsaucewiththemustardandsalt.Stirinthechives,leavingsomechivestosprinkleoverthetop.

4Heatagrillorgriddle,thenthreadthreeorfourpiecesofmeatontoeachskewerandslapontheheat,turningafter2minutes.Cookforanother2

minutesontheothersideandthenremovetoaplate,strewnwithsomesprigsofrosemaryifdesired.Donotservewhilegrill-hot.

Makesapproximately10skewers

RED-LEAF,FIG,ANDSERRANOHAMSALAD

Thissaladtakesmereminutestomake,andyetissoenduringlybeautiful.Idon’toverstatethecase;thereissomethingpositivelypainterlyaboutthedelicateheapingofdarkredleaves,red-belliedfigs,anddeeppinkham.IlovethesharpnessofManchego,droppedinfeatheryshavingsallamongstthis,butdon’tpanicifthecheeseeludesyou(thoughmysupermarketdoesstockit).JustusesomeParmesanorpecorinoinstead.

1headradicchioorradicchiorosso8cupsbabyrubychardoracoupleofbagsofsaladwithred-tonedtenderleaves2teaspoonssherryvinegar2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoilpinchofsalt

8freshfigs,quartered10ozSerranohamslices,cutverythinly2ozManchegocheese,shavedintoslices

1Teartheheadofradicchiointomanageablepieces,andtosstogetherwiththebabysaladleaves.

2Whisktogetherthevinegar,oil,andsaltinasmallbowlandthendresstheleaves.

3Arrangethefigsandhamasartisticallyasyoucanmusteroverthesaladandthen,withapotatopeeler,shavethecheeseover,lettingitfalllightlywhereitwill.

Serves8

SCALLOPS-ON-THE-SHELL

Ican’tquitebelievehowsimplebuthowluscioustheseare.Iprefertogetmyscallopsfromthefishmarketforthis,whichisjustaswellsinceIdon’tthinkIcouldevergetasupermarkettosupplymewithshells.

Youdon’tneedtotakethecoralsoff,butIliketoturnthisintotwomealsandfryupthecoralsthenextdaywithsomebutterandgarlicoilandeatthemsquishedontochunkybreadortoast,spritzedwithlemonjuice,carpetedwithparsley.

Thesearereallyastarter,butIcertainlywouldn’tmindknockingacoupleofshells’worthbackforaspecialsupperanydayoftheweek.

6scallopshells18seascallopswiththeirroesorcoralsremoved,orifthescallopsareverysmall,get242cupsfreshbreadcrumbs6teaspoonsbutter1lime,cutforsqueezing1½teaspoonsgarlicoilsaltandpeppertotaste

1Preheatyourovento475°F.(Youreallyneedaveryhotoven.)Rinseanddrythescallopshellsandarrangethemonabakingsheet.

2Putthescallopsintoabowlandsprinkleoverthebreadcrumbs.Tossthemaroundtogeteachonewellcoatedwithcrumbs.

3Put3breadedscallopsintoeachshell,andthensprinkleoveranyleftoverbreadcrumbsthatremaininthebottomofthebowl.

4Thenaddateaspoonofbutterontopofeachscallop-filledshell,asquirtoflimejuice,¼teaspoonofgarlicoil,andsaltandpepper.

5Putthescallopsintheovenforabout15–20minutes;youreallywantthebreadcrumbstobecrispyandthebutterturningblackaroundtheedgesoftheshell.

Serves6

DUCKBREASTSWITHPOMEGRANATEANDMINT

Thisismyideaofperfectdinner-partyfood:It’seasytomake,notcomplicatedtoserve,andlooks—andtastes—exquisite.

Feelfreetobroil,pangriddle,orgrillyourduckratherthansearitonthestove,andthenroastit,butIjustfindImaketheairtoosmokywhenit’sonthestove.

Iadviseaskingafriendtocomeandhelpyouslicethemeat.Obviously,it’snotexactlyhardworkcarvingaduckbreast,butsothatthefirstslicesaren’tcoldbythetimethelastonesgoontheservingplatter,itmakessensetospeeduptheprocess.Thisisnotacrucialconsideration:Itdoesn’tactuallymatterwhattemperaturethesejeweledsliversofmeatare.

4duckbreasts8cupsarugulaorwatercressorsaladchardoramixture1pomegranate1smallbunchfreshmint

1Preheattheovento425°F.

2Heataflameproof,ovenproofpanonthestoveandthenseartheduckbreasts,skinsidedown,foraminuteorsooverhighheat.

3Turntheduckbreastsoverandthenplaceintheovenforabout15minutes.

4Removetheduckbreastsfromtheovenandletthemsitonacarvingboardwhileyougetorganized.Ifyouwanttoholdthematthisstage,takethemoutoftheovenatabout13minutesanddouble-wrapinaluminumfoil,thenletthemsittillyouneedthem.

5Lineameatplateorflattishplatterwiththesaladleaves.

6Sliceeachduckbreastverythinlyonthediagonalandlayonthesalad-lined

dish,pouringoveranymeatjuicesasyougo.

7Halvethepomegranate,andthenbashouttheseedsfromonehalftodecoratetheduckslices.Squeezesomeofthejuice—justbyhand—fromtheotherhalfovertheduckaswell.

8Tearoffahandfulofmintleavesandthenfinelychopthem,scatteringovertheduck.

Serves8

GRIDDLEDVENISONWITHPINKGINAPPLESAUCEAND

ROASTPENCILLEEKS

Thereisacertainmellowelegancetothisdinner,despitethescantdemandsitplacesonyou,thecook.Iamhappytocooktheseinagriddlepanratherthanroastthevenison,sincetheleannessofthemeatmeansyoudon’tgetmuchsmoke,butifyou’rehappierstashingitintheoven,bemyguest.

Iliketoservethiswithsomepickledredcabbagealongside;itspiquancyistheperfectcounterfoiltothesweetdenseflesh.Idon’twantanythingelse,notifIwanttomakeseriousheadwayintoanyofthedessertsbelow.Nevertheless,consideragoodlazysidedish;somereallygood-qualityplainpotatochipswarmedintheovenisthekindofaccompanimentnoone,howevercarb-fearing,canmanagetoresist.

1½lbsvenisonloin½cupgin¼cupoliveoil2teaspoonsWorcestershiresauce2teaspoonsblackpeppercorns1onion,quartered2staranise2bruisedclovesgarlic

1Putthevenisonintoalargefreezerbagandaddtheremainingingredients.Leaveoutforatleast20minutes,orifyoucanaffordthetimeupto2hours,orleaveovernightinthefridge.

2Whenyouarereadytocookthemeat,heatalargegriddlepanuntilalmostsmokinghot.

3Takethevenisonoutofthemarinade,shakingwell,thenslapdownontothehotgriddleandcookforabout15minutes,turningfrequentlytogainevenscorchmarks.Whenthevenisonisready,removetoacarvingboardtorest,looselytentedwithfoil,beforeslicingthinly.

PINKGINAPPLESAUCE

Don’tjustbuyajarofapplesauce;it’sthisthatmakesthevenisonspecial.Ifyouownafoodmill(andtheyarenotexpensivetobuy),it’sveryeasytomake.

5scallions,finelysliced,whitepartonly2tablespoonsbuttersprinklingofsalt3RedDeliciousapples2tablespoonsginplus1teaspoonjuiceofalemon1longredchile,leftwhole

1Inawidesaucepanwithalid,softenthewhiteshredsofscallioninthebutter,addingalittlesalttopreventitfromscorching.

2Cuttheapplesinhalf,andtheneachhalfintoquarters,and(withoutevenbotheringtocore)addthemtothepanwiththescallions.Pourinthe2tablespoonsgin,lemonjuice,andwholechile,givingeverythingagoodstir.

3Coverthepanandcookovermediumheatuntiltheapplesaresoft;thisshouldtakenomorethan20minutes.

4Takeoutthechilepepper,andthenworkthesaucethroughafoodmillorsieve,theskinsfromtheapplescoloringthesauceablushingduskypink.Stirin1teaspoonofginandseasontotaste.

5Servethepinkginapplesaucewiththevenisoneitherinaseparatebowloratonesideoftheplateofvenison.

Serves6

ROASTPENCILLEEKS

IlovethisasavegetableaccompanimentbutIshouldtellyouitalsoworksverywell,atroomtemperature,withsomedressingoverit,asastarter.Ifyoucan’tfindthebabyleeks—thoughthereseemstoanalarmingproliferationofbabyvegetablesthesedays—thensimplysubstitutesomefatscallions.

12ozminiatureleeks3tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil1teaspoonkoshersaltjuiceof½lemon

1Preheattheovento425°F.

2Laytheleeksinalarge,shallowbakingdishorroastingpan,addtheoilandsalt,thenrolltheleeksabouttocoatwell.

3Cookintheblisteringovenforabout15minutes,bywhichtimetheyshouldbebronzedinparts.

4Decanttoaservingdish,andspritzwithlemonjuice.

Serves6

TARTEFINEAUXPOMMES

Thisisthechicversionofmylumpy-bumpygalettehere.Inormallyfindsomethingfascisticallythreateningaboutsymmetry,butthelined-uporderlinessofthisistoobeautifultoabhor.Plus,ittastesfantasticandiseasy-peasytomake.Whatmoredoyouwant?

2largeGrannySmithapples(or3smallerones)juiceof1lemonOnehalf(1sheet)ofa17.2-ozpackageall-butterstoreboughtpuffpastry,measuring9½x9½inches

2tablespoonssugar1tablespoonbuttercrèmefraîcheforserving,ifwished

1Preheattheovento425°F.

2Coretheapples,andcuttheminhalf.Pourthelemonjuiceintoawideshallowdishandfillitwithsomecoldwater.Immersetheapplehalvesinthelemonywater;thiswillstopthemturningbrown.

3Laythesheetofpuffpastryontoalargebakingsheet,andeitherusingthebackofalargecarvingknifeorasteelrulermarka½-inchborderallthewayaroundtheedgeoftherectangle.Youneedtoscorethelinesonthepastryratherthancuttingallthewaythroughit.Thiswillallowaframetoriseabovetheapplefilling.

4Pattheapplesdryandcuteachhalfintoquarters,thensliceeachquarterasthinlyasyoupossiblycan:Thinksegmentwafers.

5Sprinkle1tablespoonofsugaroverthebase.Workingfromtheinsideedge,placetheappleslicescloselyoverlappingwithintheborderoftheframe.Createneatlinesofappleslicesuntilthepastryiscovered.

6Heatthebutterwiththeremainingtablespoonofsugarinasmallpan,andlet

bothbubbleforafewminutesuntilalightcaramelcolorappears.Dribblethissyrupovertheapplesandputthetartintheoven.

7Cookfor20–25minutes,bywhichtimeapuffpastryborderwillhaverisenaroundtheapplesandthefruitwillbesoftandslightlycolored.Cutintosquaresorslicesandservewithcrèmefraîcheifdesired.

Serves6–8

WHITECHOCOLATEMINTMOUSSE

Iamnotnormallymuchofawhitechocolateperson,butthepeppermintseemstoeradicateitslethalrichness.Nevertheless,mynephewdidsayofit,whenIlethimhavesomeforabirthdaytreat,thatitwaslikebeingabletoeattheicingwithouthavingthecake.Hewasn’tspeakingfiguratively.Andbecauseitisrichandsweet,Iserveitinuncharacteristicallysmallportions.Astheysayinshowbiz,alwaysgoodtoleave’emwantingmore.

9ozwhitechocolate,brokenintosmallpieces1cupheavycream1eggwhite¼teaspoonpeppermintextract(IuseBoyajiannaturalpeppermintflavor)6freshmintleaves,optional

1Putthepiecesofwhitechocolateinabowl,andsitthisbowloverapanofsimmeringwateruntilthechocolatemelts,stirringgentlywithaspatulaeverynowandthen.Whenit’smelted,standthebowlonacoldsurfacetocooldownalittle.

2Inanotherbowl,usinganelectrichandheldwhiskforease,whipthecream,eggwhite,andpeppermintextracttogether.Youwantasoftlypeakingratherthanstiffmixture.

3Putabigdollopofcreamontotheslightlycooledchocolateandmix,andthengentlyfoldthechocolatemixtureintotherestofthecream.

4Dividethemixtureamong6smallbutperfectlyformedglasses—liketheonesopposite—withacapacityof¼cupeach.

5Chillinthefridgeorgivethemafasticyzapbysittingtheminthedeepfreezefor10or15minutes.Decorateeachglasswithamintleafforserving.

Serves6

Serves6

GLITZYCHOCOLATEPUDDINGS

Ifyou’vegotanelectricmixer—eitherahandheldoneorafreestandingmixer—thisisveryloweffortindeed,butitisarealshowstopper.There’ssomethingquiteextraordinaryaboutthegreedysilencethatfallsoverthetableasyouputtheseout.Youcanalmostfeelit.

Theglitzisprovidedbytheirutterfantabulousnessandthescatteringofcandyoverthetop.Ifyoudon’twanttouseacandybar,ofcourse,buysomeupmarkethoneycomb,orelsescatterwithsomefinelychoppedpistachios.Youwilllosethesugary-glitterlook,butyouwillstillhavebroughttolifeanelegantlyvoluptuouscreation.

4ozbittersweetchocolate½cupsoftbutter4eggs1cupsugar⅓cupflour¼teaspoonbakingsodapinchofsalt

FORTHEGLAZE:5ozbittersweetchocolate3tablespoonsbutter22.1-ozButterfingerbars,brokenintoshards

1Preheattheovento350°F.

2Breakupthechocolateandmeltitwiththebutterinabowlinthemicrowaveoroveradoubleboiler.Onceit’smelted,sitthebowlonacoldsurfacesothatthechocolatecools.

3Preferablyinafreestandingmixer,beattheeggsandsugaruntilthickandpaleandmoussey,thengentlyfoldintheflour,bakingsoda,andpinchofsalt.

4Foldintheslightlycooledchocolateandbuttermixtureandthendivideamong8ramekinsorcustardcups.Putintheoventobakefor25minutes.

5Meanwhile,getonwiththeglazebymeltingthechocolateandbutterinamicrowave(ordoubleboiler),thenwhisktoformasmoothglossymixtureandspoonthisoverthecookedpuddings.

6DecoratewithButterfingerrubble:Ijustputthebarsinafreezerbag,settowitharollingpin,andstrewoverthetop.OrmakethisaDIYjobbyusingtheHokeyPokeyhere.

Serves8

ICECREAMCAKE

Idon’tthinkacook’sjobshouldbetodeceive,butthereissomethingappealingaboutthefactthatthislooksandtastesasifitwereincrediblyhardworkandyetinvolvesnotmorethanabitofstirring.Youmust,though,serveawarmsaucewithit—it’sthecrowningglory—andI’vecertainlygivenyouoptionsbelow.

Tobefrank,youcanchoosedifferentcookies,differentnuts,anddifferentnubblybitsgenerallytomixinwiththeicecreamandgivecrunch,texture,andsuddenshardsofflavor.Ifindithardtobelieve,however,thatthiscouldbeinanywayimproved.Sorry,butthat’sjusthowitis.

2½pintsicecream¾cuphoney-roastedpeanuts1¼cupsNestléSwirledMilkChocolateandPeanutButterMorselsorusechocolatechipsofyourchoice

2.1-ozButterfingerbar,brokenintoshardsanddustyrubble1½cupschocolatecookiecrumbs1batchbutterscotchsauce(seehere)plus1batchchocolatesauce(seehere)or1batchchocolatepeanutbutter–flavoredsauce(seehere)

1Lettheicecreamsofteneitherinthefridgeforawhileoroutinthekitchen.

2Linean8-inchspringformpanwithplasticwrap,bothinthebottomandsidesofthepansothatyouhavesomeoverhangatthetop.

3Emptytheslightlysoftenedicecreamintoabowlandmixinthepeanuts,1cupmilkchocolateandpeanutbuttermorselsorchips,Butterfingershards,and1cupofthechocolatecookiecrumbs.

4Scrapetheicecreammixtureintothespringformpan,flatteningthetoplikeacake.Coverthetopwithplasticwrapandplaceinthefreezertofirmup.

5Servethecakestraightfromthefreezer,unmoldingfromthepanbyreleasingthesidesandpullingtheplasticwrapgentlyawaybeforeputtingonaplateorcakestand.

6Sprinklethetopofthecakewiththeextra¼cupofmilkchocolateandpeanutbuttermorselsorchipsandtheremaining½cupchocolatecookiecrumbs.

7Cutintoslicesandservewiththebutterscotchandchocolatesaucesorthechocolatepeanutbutter–flavoredsauceandoneoftheothers,lettingbothsaucesdribblelacilyovereachslice.Iftwosaucessoundliketoomuchtrouble—they’renot—justoptforthechocolatepeanutbuttersauce.It’shardtofindanargumentagainstit.

Serves8–10

BLACKBERRIESINMUSCATJELLY

Thisisunlikeanythingelse:Thetextureissoftset,sothatyouknowit’snotaliquidbutitdoesn’thavetheheftofasolid.Andtheacidityoftheblackberrieswithinthemuskysweetnessofthejellyisafurtherthrill.

WhatIdoismakethisinthemorningoftheeveningIwanttoeatit.Itissostraightforwardthatyoucandoitgroggilyatbreakfast,notrouble.Itdoesn’tneedsolongtoset,butIfinditeasiertoworklikethis.

2cupsblackberries5sheetsgelatin2½cupsBeaumedeVeniseorothermuscatwine½cupwater2tablespoonslimejuice½cupvanillasugarorgranulatedsugarheavycreamtoserve

1Dividetheblackberriesamong6glasses;Iuseold-fashionedchampagnesaucerswithayieldofabout¾cupeach.

2Soakthegelatinsheetsinadishofcoldwaterfor5minutes.

3Putthewine,water,sugar,andlimejuiceinasaucepan,putontheheat,andstirtodissolvethesugar.Bringtoaboilandboilfor1minutebeforeremovingthepanfromtheheat.

4Wringoutthegelatinsheetsandplaceinacup.Whiskaround½cupofthehotliquidintothegelatinsheetsintheircupbeforepouringthegelatinandliquidmixtureintothepanofhotliquid,whiskingwelltomix.Allowtocoolalittle.

5Pourtheliquidovertheblackberriesintheirglassesandrefrigerateuntilset,3–4hoursdependingonhowcoldyourfridgeis,orovernight.

6Servewithsomecreaminapitcher,separately.

Serves6

GINGER-PASSIONFRUITTRIFLE

Idon’tthinkI’veeverwrittenabookwithoutatrifleinit,andI’mnotabouttostartnow.Besides,thisisoneofthosedessertsthatlooksspectacularbutrequirestheleastamountofeffortandscarcelyanytimeatalltomake.Andbytheway,whenIsay“make,”Ireallymeanassemble.

Thetaste,though,isgloriousand,forallitssimplicityofconstruction,itfeelslikeabigdeal.Richthough,whichmeansyoucanfeedalargetablefulofpeoplewithonefabulousmound.

1lbstore-boughtspongeorpoundcakeorsameweightofbaker’smadeleines½cupStone’sgingerwineorcreamsherry2cupsheavycream4teaspoonspowderedsugar8passionfruit

1Sliceorbreakthecakeintopiecesandarrangehalfoftheminashallowdish,thenpourhalfthegingerwineoverthem.Mounduptheremaininghalfofthecakeandpourtheremaininggingerwineontop.

2Whipthecreamwiththepowderedsugaruntilitisfirmbutnotstiff;youwantsoftpeaks.

3Scooptheinsidesof2passionfruitintothebowlofcreamandfoldinbeforemoundingthecreamfloppilyoverthedrenchedsponge.

4Scoopouttheremaining6passionfruitontothewhitepileofcreamsothatitisdousedanddribblingwiththeblackseedsandfragrantgoldenpulp.

Serves8–10

Thisisembarrassing,butImustgetitoffmychestbeforeIgoanyfurther.IdoknowIamnotremotelyqualifiedtotellanyoneanythingaboutMexicanfood.Ihaven’t,Iambothashamedtoadmitandregretfultoacknowledge,evenbeentoMexico.

SoifitwouldbemisleadingtoclaimthisasmyMexicanchapter,itistruthfultosayit’sdefinitelyinspiredbyMexicanfoodandculture.LetmejustaddthatIdon’tactuallythinkthatalltheyeatinMexicoareavocadosandtortillas,butsomehowtheyseemtobeexuberantlyrepresentedhere.Ihavealwaysbeensomeonetokeeparegularstashofavocadosinthehouse,butnowpackagesofsofttortillasareasmuchastaple.Ifthereain’tthewherewithalforaquesadillainmyhousehold,believemeI’mnotallowedtoforgetit.

IfIdon’tclaimauthenticity,IcanatleastsaythatIhaveendeavorednottobecrasslyinauthentic.NoMexicanshavebeenharmedinthewritingofthischapter.Toexpand:WhereverpossibleIhaveropedinMexicanfriends,orfriendsoffriends,totaste,criticizeandactasguineapigs,andtheirfabulouslygreedyapprovalhasmeantalottome.

Andwhileit’struethatmydelightinthechapter’stitlemighthaveencouragedmeinitially,thefactofthematterismyresearchandthefooditinspiredinturnhaveledtosomeofmyfavoriterecipesinthebook.Thisisnotaboutthelureofthenew.Iamenoughofatraditionalist—inthekitchenatanyrate—tobewaryofnoveltyandcomfortedbythefamiliar.Butthisisfastfoodthatisfreshandvibrantandinturnmakesyoufeelmoreawakeandaliveeatingit.

MEXICANSCRAMBLEDEGGS

Thisisnotonlythebestwaytostarttheday,butthebestwaytoendit,too.Youcanmakeitevenmoreofamealbyservingsomerefriedbeansalongside,butIloveitjustasitis.Italsohappenstobeoneofthegreatesthangovercuresaround.Youknow,IthinkImightconsideroverdoingitpartywisejusttohaveanexcusetowhipupabatchofthese.Butthen,theyaresogoodthatthereisalwaysareasontoeatthem;noneedtoscoutaroundforexcuses.

2tablespoonsvegetableoil2softcorntortillas1tomato1scallion1smallgreenchile,deseededandchopped4eggs,beaten¼teaspoonkoshersaltorpinchtablesalt

1Heattheoilinafryingpan.Rollupthetortillasintoasausageshapeandthensnipthemintostripswithapairofscissorsstraightintothehotoil.

2Frythetortillastripsforafewminutesuntilcrispandgolden,thenremovetoabowl.

3Halvethetomatoandremovetheseeds,thenroughlychopitandthescallionandaddtothehotoilypanalongwiththechoppedchile,turningeverythingaboutforaminuteorso.

4Putthecorntortillastripsbackinthepanandaddtheeggsandsalt.Usingawoodenspoon,moveaboutinthepanlikeyouwouldscrambledeggs.

5Removethepanfromtheheatoncetheeggsbegintosetandcontinuestirringthemuntiltheyaredonetoyourliking.

Serves2

MEXICANCHICKENSALADWITHBLACKBEANSALSA

Thisisalunchfitforthegods,andaprettydivinedinner,outsideonabalmynight,too.

JicamaissometimesknownasaMexicanpotato,thoughthat’sabitmisleadingsinceyoucaneatitraw.Itlookslikeaturnipwrappedinfreshgingerskin.Ifyoucan’tgetholdofajicama,thenI’dreplaceitwithanAsianorNashipearoradrainedcanofwaterchestnuts,cutintomatchsticks;whatyouwantisjuicinessandcrunch.Iwouldn’tsaynotoaGrannySmithapple,cutintochunkymatchsticks,either.

IadmitIhadneverevenheardofjicamabefore,butIphonedmygreengrocerandhesaidtheywereavailableatthemarketandjusttogivehimsomewarning.Idon’timaginethatyoucantalkasupermarketintostockingthemiftheydon’talreadyhavealeaningtowardLatinAmericanproduce—thoughyouneverknow—butIlikegoingtosmall,specialtystoreswhenIcan,andthisisanothergoodreasonwhy.

Thedressingisutterlyaddictive.Isometimeskeepajarinthefridgeforadayortwo;thelimeseemstostaveoffanybrowningorblackeningoftheavocadoflesh.

FORTHEDRESSING:1ripeavocado½cupsourcream3tablespoonslimejuice1clovegarlic,peeled1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesaltgoodgrindingofblackpepper

FORTHESALAD:2½cupsshreddedcookedchicken1lbjicama,peeledandcutinto¼-inchmatchsticksor28-ozcanswaterchestnutsslicedintostrips2scallions,finelyshredded½cupfinelychoppedcilantro3cupsshreddedromainelettuce

1Spoonthefleshoutoftheavocadoandputintoablenderwithalltheotherdressingingredients.

2Processthedressinguntilsmooth.

3Putallthesaladingredientsintoabowl,spoonoverthedressing,andtoss,makingsureeverythinggetscoatedwell.

Serves4–6

TOMATOANDBLACKBEANSALSA

Ikeepjarsofgreen(milder)andred(hotter)jalapeños,andpreferthefierinessoftheredhere,butit’sentirelyuptoyou.Andifyou’dprefertousefreshjalapeños,thendo.

115-ozcanblackbeans2tomatoes,deseededandroughlychopped⅓cuproughlychoppedpickledredjalapeñosfromajar1tablespoonlimejuice

1teaspoonMaldonsaltoranotherseasalt

1Drainandrinsethebeans,andthenmixinabowlwiththechoppedtomatoes,jalapeños,limejuice,andsalt.

2ChecktheseasoningandthenservewiththeMexicanchickensalad,eitherinabowltothesideordollopedonthesameplate.

Serves4–6aspartofthemeal

SWEETCORNCHOWDERWITHTOASTEDTORTILLAS

Thetortillasbeforewerethesoftflourones.Thesearethosecrisp,crunchycorn-grittytrianglesthatsomehowalwaysfeellikeaguiltypleasure.Althoughhavingsaidthat,Iknowonlythat“guiltypleasures”exist,butIhaveneverseenthepointoffeelingguiltyaboutpleasure.Rather,Iseeplentyofreasonforfeelingguiltyaboutfailingtotakepleasureinthings.

WhenIplantomakethis,Itendtotakeabigpackoffrozencornoutofthedeepfreezeatbreakfasttime,inreadinessforasuperquick,fantasticallysoothing,mellow-yellow,andverypleasingsupperthatnight.

Usewhatevercheeseyoulike;mostlyIgoforCheddarsinceIalwayshavesomeinthefridge,butIamhappyaboutusingupotherbitsandpieces.Ifchildrenareeating,it’swisetoomitthechiles—unlessthey’rebeingveryannoying.

6cupsfrozensweetcorn,defrosted3scallions,eachonetrimmedandhalved1clovegarlic,peeled

¼cupsemolina6cupshotvegetablestockmadefromconcentrateorbouilloncubes15cupslightlysaltedtortillachips2cupsgratedcheese

2longredchiles,deseededandfinelychopped,optional

1Preheattheovento400°F.

2Drainthecornandputintoafoodprocessorwiththescallions,garlic,andsemolina.Blitztoaspeckledprimrosemush;unlessyouhaveabigprocessoryoumayhavetodothisintwobatches.

3Tipthismixtureintoalargesaucepan,addthehotvegetablestock,andbringtoaboil,thenturndowntheheatandletthechowdersimmer,partiallycovered,for10minutes.

4Meanwhile,spreadthetortillachipsoutonanalumimumfoil–linedbakingsheetandsprinkleoverthecheese.Warminthehotovenfor5–10minutesoruntilthecheesemeltsoverthechips.

5Ladlethesoupintobowlsandputasmallmoundofcheese-moltenchipsintothemiddleofeachbowl.Sprinkleoversomeoftheredchile,ifyoufeellikeit,andserveimmediatelytoverygratefulpeople.

Serves6

QUICKCHILI

IsupposethisismoreTex-MexthanjustMex,butnonetheworseforthat.Besides,thereisareasonthatold-fashionedcookbooksdevotedsomuchenergytogroundmeat:Itmakesforasimple,speedysupper.

Luckily,thereisalotmoregoingforthisthanefficiency.Itjusthitsthespotwhenyouwantsomethingcomfortingbutnotbland:Itsoothesbutit’ssprightly.

Ifyou’vegotaricecooker—andImakenosecretofmydependencehere—thenyouputyourriceontosteambeforeyoumakethechiliandasubstantialsupperismereminutesaway,whichisjustthewayasubstantialsuppershouldbe.

5ozchorizosausage(notthehardsalamisortofsausage),halvedlengthwiseandcutinto¼-inchhalf-moons1lbgroundbeef

½teaspoongroundcumin½teaspoongroundcoriander½teaspoongroundcinnamon3cardamompods,bruised2cupsgood-qualitytomatoandchunkyvegetablesauceforpasta114-ozcanmixedspicybeans¼cupsweetchilesauce

¼teaspoonchileflakes,optional,orifyourcannedbeansarenotspicy

1Puttheslicedchorizointoahotpanandcookovermediumheatuntilthesausagecrispsalittleandgivesupitsorange-redoil.

2Addthegroundbeefandcookforabout5minutes,breakingitupwithawoodenforktohelpitbrown.

3Stirinthespicesandthenaddthetomato-vegetablepastasauce,beans,andchilesauce.Alsoaddthechileflakesifyouneedmoreheat.

4Bringtoaboil,thenturndowntheheatandsimmerfor20minutesandeatwithriceorjustasitis.Ifyou’renotaddinganyrice,youmightconsiderdollopingwithablobofsourcreamandsprinklingsomegratedcheeseandchoppedcilantro.Ican’tthinkofanywayofeatingthisthatisn’tgood.

Serves4

CHOPPEDCEVICHEANDMEXICOLA

Idon’tdenythatchoppingthefishintosuchtinypiecesseemsperhapsagainsttheexpressethos(ifImightputitthatway),butthere’snologicthatcandissuademe.Besides,itreallymeansthatyouhardlyhavetosteepthefishintheacidyjuicesatallbeforeitis“cooked”orratherdenatured(yes,thatistheterm)bythelime.Notthatthatismyreason:Ifindthateatingbigchunksofrawfish,nomatterthatitiscuredinsomewaybyitsacidbath,canspookpeopleoutandthisdaintyconfettisomehowdoesn’t.Iammadforitand,truthbetold,reallyloveitwithabigbowloftortillachipsontheside,butforeleganceoftenproducelittletoastsortostadasinstead.IgetaslenderFrenchbaguetteorficelleloafandcutintothinslices;oneloafshouldyieldabout40minitostadas.Brushwithalittleoilandthenburnishslightlyina400°Fovenfor10minutes.

Usewhateverfirmwhitefishisavailabletoyou;myMexicansourcesspeakofsierrabutthat’snotanoptionforme,geographically.IfIfindblackcod,sometimescalledChileanseabass(andisneithercodnorbass),thenIusethat,otherwisemonkfish.

MyMexicolacocktailgoeswellwiththis.Ican’tsayIhavearigidformulaforthissimpledrink:Ijustpour.ButI’lljotdownwhatIusuallydo,perglass,justtogetthingsstraight.IputashotofTequilaintoaglass,topwithicecubes,andaddlotsoflimeslices,thenfilltheglasswithverycoldCokeorPepsi.

8ozskinlessandbonelessblackcodormonkfishfillet,choppedasfinelyasyoucan⅓cuplimejuice1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt½teaspoondriedoregano3scallions,finelychopped¼cupchoppedcilantro,plusalittlemoreforsprinkling1jalapeñochileoranymedium-sizedgreenchile,deseededandchoppedtogiveatablespoon

Tostadasortortillachips,toserve

1Putthechoppedfishinawideshallowdishandsprinkleoverthelimejuice,salt,andoregano.Leavethisfor8minutes.

2Drainthefish;itwillhavemadeamilkyliquid.Addthescallions,cilantro,andchile,andstirgentlytogether.

3Youcaneitherputteaspoonfulsontolittletoastsandsprinkleoversomemorecilantro,orputthecevicheintoabowlforeveryonetodiptortillachipsinto.

Makesenoughforapproximately40littletostadas

QUESADILLAS

Ihavebeenwonovertothewayofthewrapgenerally,butIinsistthisisthebestuseofthetortillaever.IcameacrossitfirstinMiami,intheRaleighHotelinSouthBeachtobeprecise.Therestaurantthereisoneofmyfavorites:Itnestlesinaludicrouslybeautifulgarden,hungwithshimmeringlights,andthefoodissogoodthatwhenI’minMiamiIdon’tdareeatanywhereelse.

TheRaleigh’sMorningQuesadillaisatortillawrap,foldedaroundavocadoandscrambledeggandgrilledandshouldn’tbyrightsbeasgoodasitis.Youcandoaversionofit,shouldyouhaveanyMexicanscrambledeggleftoverfromtherecipehere,butIfindwheneverIputavocadoin,itsquelchesoutbeforeIgetthewraptomymouth.

Thesecheese-and-hambabiesareverygoodtoofferalongsidethecoolceviche,butIoftenmakethemforsupper.They’rethatgood—andthateasy.

Igivequantitiesforeachroundsoftflourtortilla;eachquesadillamakesthreelittletrianglesandit’sreallyuptoyouhowmanyofthemtoeat.Iwouldn’tpresume…

FOREACHFLOURTORTILLAWRAP:1ozthinlyslicedcuredham3coin-slicedslicesofpickledgreenjalapeñopeppersfromajar¼cupgratedcheese1scallion,finelyslicedafewleavesofcilantro1teaspoonoliveoil(notextravirgin)

TOSERVE:goodstore-boughtsalsaofyourchoice

1Heataridgedgriddle,griddlepan,orskillet.

2Placethetortillawraponthecounterinfrontofyouandcoverwiththeham.

3Overonehalfonly,sprinklethechoppedpickledjalapeño,thegratedcheese,andthechoppedscallion.Scatteroverthecilantroleaves.

4Carefullyfoldthetortillawrapinhalf,that’stosay,foldtheun-cheese-toppedhalfoverthecheesesoyouhaveafathalf-moon.

5Liftthisupcarefullyandbrusheachsidewiththeoilbeforeputtingitonthehotgriddle;grilleachsideforaminute.

6Usingasteadyhandandawidefinespatulaorfishslicer,transferthetortillatoaboardorplateandcutintothreetriangles.Eatwithsomesalsaontheside.Andpleasefeelfreetoplaywiththefillingsasyouwish.

Makes1quesadilla

ROQUAMOLE

Ihavepracticallyhadtositonmyhandstostopmyselfwritingaboutthisbeforenow.Now,naturallyIknowRoquefortdoesnotcomefromMexico,butbecauseitmeldsdeliciouslywithavocadoIcouldn’tresist;Ihopeyouwon’tbeableto,either.AndalthoughIhavecalledthisincrediblediproquamole,Ithinkitmaybebettermadewithalessillustriousbleu.SaintAguroutofawedge-shapedpackageisthecheeseIkeepinthefridgesothatIamever-readytomakethis.

Youdon’tneedtoservebluecorntortillachipswiththis;youdon’thavetoserveanykindoftortillachipwiththis,thoughbothdoaddtothelusciouseat-mequalityhere.ButI’malsoverykeenonahugeplatterofdippablebits:radishes,carrotbatons,sugarsnaps,younameit.

Forme,thiscanbeadipwithdrinks,aquicktreatforlunch,oragreedysolitarydinner.TheonlymealI’veyettoeatitatisbreakfast.Ithinkit’sjustaquestionoftime…

1cupcrumbledRoquefortorSaintAgurbluecheese¼cupsourcream2ripeavocados¼cupslicedpickledgreenjalapeñosfromajar2tablespoonsfinelyslicedscallions¼teaspoonpaprikalargebagofbluecorntortillachips

1Crumbleormashthebluecheesewiththesourcreaminabowl.

2Mashintheavocados.Iftheyareripe,aforkshouldbeallyouneed.

3Roughlychoptheslicedjalapeñosandstirthemintothemixturealongwiththefinelyslicedscallions.

4Arrangeinthecenterofaplateordish,dustwithpaprika,andsurroundwithtortillachips.Divein.

Serves4–6

FLAN

ThisisaridiculoussimplificationofatraditionalMexicandessertthatisnolessdeliciousforbeingeasiertomake.Youdon’talwayshavetosufferforyourart.

Ineffect,thisisalargecrèmecaramel;there’snothingtostopyoumakingitasmanysmaller,individualones,butitwilltakelongertolineeachmold.Whygiveyourselfthework?Thefactthattheflantakesaroundthree-quartersofanhourdoesn’tbotherme.Youdon’tneedtobedoinganythingwhileitbakesandanywayitneedsagoodlongtimetositaroundandchill.Butyoucandolikewisewhilethat’shappening.

Thetraditionalmethodistomakeakindofmilkreduction;Iknowthatopeningcansdoessoundabitliketrailertrashcookingbutinessence,you’vejustletsomeoneelsereducethemilkforyou.Ifindthisparticularcombinationofunsweetenedevaporatedmilkandsweetenedcondensedmilkdoesthetrick,sodiscardyourprejudicesandarmyourselfwithyourcanopener.

AMexicancameraassistant,Luis,Iworkedwithoncesaysthisisasgoodashismother’s.Ionlyhopehismotherdoesn’tknow.

¾cupsugar112-fl-ozcanevaporatedmilk114-ozcansweetenedcondensedmilk3largeeggs2teaspoonsvanillaextract

1Preheattheovento325°Fandputakettlefulofwaterontoboil.

2Putthesugarintoaheatproof,heavy-bottomed,orideallycoppertartetatindish(or9-inch-diameterpietin),andplaceoverlowheatuntilthesugarbeginstoturnintoaliquidsyrup.Swirlthesugareverynowandthenasitmelts.

3Thesugarwillbegintocaramelize—justbeforethesugarreachesthecolorofmaplesyrup,takethepanofftheheatandplaceitonacoolsurface.

4Whilethepan’scoolingdownalittle,swirlthecaramelizedsugaralittleupthesidesofthedishbeforeitsets.

5Emptytheevaporatedandcondensedmilksintoabowlandwhiskintheeggsandvanillaextract.

6Pourthismixtureoverthesyrup-linedtartetatindishandputitintoaroastingpan,fillingthepanwithfreshlyboiledwatertoabout1inchfull.

7Bakefor45–50minutesoruntilfirmandset.Liftthedishcarefullyoutofitswaterbathandsetasidetocool.

8Leavetheflaninthefridgeovernightorfor4hours.Whenyouarereadytoserve,turntheflanoutontoadishwithenoughofaliponittostopthesyruprunningoff.

Serves8–10

MARGARITAICECREAM

Thisisacinchtomake,andeasy-easy-easytoeat.Itis,nowthatIcometothinkofit,ineffectano-churnversionoftheicecreaminForeverSummer.Ifyouwanttoserveitinglassesdippedinsugarandsalt,byallmeansdo.Butitissogoodthatevenassomeonewhoisnotacommittedicecreameaterandnokindofadrinker,IfindIcanspoonitstraightintomymouthfromthecontainerI’vechilleditin.

Inotherwords:Nodecorativetouchesorembellishmentsareremotelyneeded.Thisistrulytheexpresswaytodessert-deliriousness.

½cuplimejuice3tablespoonsCointreauortriplesec2tablespoonstequila1¼cupspowderedsugar2cupsheavycream

1Pourthelimejuice,Cointreau(ortriplesec),andtequilaintoabowlandstirinthesugartodissolve.

2Addthecreamandthensoftlywhipuntilthickandsmoothbutnotstiff.

3Spoonintoanairtightcontainertofreezeovernight.Thisicecreamdoesnotneedripening(softeningbeforeserving),asitwillnotfreezetoohardandmeltsspeedilyandvoluptuously.

Serves6

BUÑUELOS

Abuñueloisasmallfritterofintensefabulousness.Ithinkanythingthatisfriedstartsoffwithanadvantageinthetastedepartment,andagoodsprinklingofsugarattheendcanonlyhelpthingsfurther.

Althoughthesearefried,theyareincrediblylight,andtheoilyoucooktheminisveryhot,sothatthebuñuelosdonothaveeventhesuspicionofgreasinessaboutthem.

Ifyouhaveafreestandingmixer—whichgenerallygreatlyaidstheexpresslife—theseareveryquicktomake,andtheytakehardlyanytimetofry.Ilovethemattheendofamealwithasmall,hotcupofcoffee.

Ifyouwanttotakeanevenmoreexpressroute,simplycutsomesoftcorntortillasintotriangles,deep-frythemquicklybutferociously,andthensprinklewithagoodlydustingofpowderedsugar.

¼cupmilk1egg1cupflour1teaspoonbakingpowder⅛teaspooncreamoftartar1tablespoonvegetableshorteningcookingoilforfryingpowderedsugarfordecorating

1Whiskthemilkandegginalargemeasuringcuporbowl.

2Puttheflour,bakingpowder,andcreamoftartarintoabowl,thenrubtheshorteningintothemixtureeitherbyhandorwithafreestandingmixer.

3Pourinthemilkandeggandmixtomakeasilkydough;bepreparedtoadd1–3tablespoonsofextraflourifit’stoosticky.

4Pourtheoilinapanuptoabout1inchdeepandplaceoverhighheattoreachatemperatureof350°F.

5Tearoffcherrytomato–sizedballsfromthedough,rubbingthemwithyourhandstoshapethem.Dropintothehotoilandcookforabout1or2minutesoneachsideoruntilgolden.

6Drainonpapertowelsandthenarrangeonaplateanddustwithpowderedsugarpushedthroughasmallstrainerwithateaspoon.

Makes30;enoughfor4–6or8ifjustapetitfourwithcoffee

MEXICANHOTCHOCOLATE

ThisisnotthefirstofmyMexicanhotchocolates,butIfeelitwillbemylast.Youcanmeltchunksofchocolate(asIhaveinpreviousversions)intohotmilk,butIlovetheparticularrichnessandthicknessyougetfromgoodEuropeanhotchocolatepowders.Plus,IaddKahlúa,sothereisreallynoneedtoconsideranythingelse.

Thewhippedcreamontopisnotessentialunlessyoudecidetoservethisinlieuofdessert-and-coffee,whichIcan’thelpthinkingisavery,verygoodideaindeed.

Cannedwhippedcream,whichgivesthatgloriouswhippedeffectis,alas,notalwayswonderful,butifyou’rebraveenough,buyanitrouscreamwhipperandlearntospurtandsquirtthefreshcreamatwill.

2cupswholemilk6tablespoonssuperiorEuropeanhotchocolatemix¼–⅓cupKahlúa,dependingontastesquirtywhippedcreamfromacan,optional4longcinnamonsticks

1Heatthemilkinapanandmakethehotchocolateaccordingtopackageinstructions.

2AddtheKahluaandthentakeofftheheatbeforeitboils.

3Servewithatoppingofthesquirtycream(ifyouareusing),andputthecinnamonsticksinasyouwouldstraws,thoughIamnotsuggestingtheybeusedassuch.

Serves4

Ihaveneverseenanypointinpretendingtobeotherthanoneis,andIdoratherfeelanywayIhavemadethemostofbeingafoodobsessive.Forgoodorbad,it’smylife,it’sme,andIdon’tseeanythingchanging.Sometimes,though,Idohavethegoodtastetobealittleashamed.So,Iriskshowingmyselfupinallmyfoolishnessnowbyconfessingthatwhenmysonstartedhavingtotakeapackedlunchtoschooleveryday,Ikeptadiary,chroniclingwhatI’dgivenhimtoeatand—ohyes—memorializingeitherhiscommentsorthestateofhislunchboxbytheendoftheday.Inotherwords,Itoldmyself,Iwastryingtoseewhatwassuccessfulandpopularandwhatwentuneaten.

IrealizedhowmadlyobsessiveIwasbeingwhenallmyfriendsderidedmeforchartingtheprinceling’sprandialprogressinthisfashion;notknowingIwassoidiotic,yousee,Ijustleftthediaryinplainsightinthekitchenforeaseofjotting.

Well,itdidn’tlast(theabandoneddocumentnowlanguishesinmysecretdrawer)notjustbecauseIwasmocked,butalsobecausethenoveltyworeoff,tobefrank.ButwhatIdoknowfromallthatishowharditistosupplydecentlunches,dayin,dayout,foradultsorchildren,orevenjustsomethingtoeatonthego,whenthefoodhastotravel,sitwell,andbepreparedwithoutmajortrauma.Therecipesthatfollowrepresentmyattempttofindawaythroughitall.Followme…

PEAANDPESTOSOUP

Providingsomethinghottoeatisthehardestchallenge,andalthoughthermosflasksofsoupprovidescopeforspillageandmess,Ifeeltheyareworththerisk.Thissoup—myall-timemost-requested—hasthebonus,too,ofbeingsosimpletomake,youcandoitwhileyoustumbleaboutthekitchenatbreakfast.

Whileyoucanmakeitwithpestofromajar,thedifferencewhenyouusethe“fresh”stuffinaplastictubthatyoufindinrefrigeratedsectionsinthesupermarketsisastonishing.

Ithinksoupstastebettermadeinablenderratherthanafoodprocessor,andit’sbesttouseablenderwithalidthathasacentralbitinthetopyoucanremove;thisstopspressurebuildingup,whichinturnpreventsyoufromgettingsoupalloveryouoryourwalls.Thiswouldnotbeagoodstarttotheday.

3cupswater3cupsfrozenpeas2scallions,coarselychopped1teaspoonkoshersalt½teaspoonlimejuice¼cupfreshpesto(notjarred)

1Thequickestwaytoproceedistofillakettlefirstandputitontoboil.Whenit’sboiled,measuretheamountofwateryouneedintoapanandputonthestovetocomebacktoaboil.

2Addthefrozenpeas,scallions,salt,andlimejuiceandleteverythingbubbletogetherfor7minutes.

3Discardthescallionsandblitzthepeasandtheirliquidwiththepestoinablender.

4Pourintoathermosflaskthatyou’veleftfilledwithhotwaterandthenemptiedandmakesureyouscrewthetoponsecurely.

Makesenoughfor2heartybowls

Makesenoughfor2heartybowls

CHICKENCAESARCORNETS

Thisisawrapbyanothername,butforareason:ThereisnowayIthinkaroll-upwrapcouldsurvivetravelbutthis,akindofcrepe-cornetapproach,ishardier.You’llstillhavetobecareful,butatleastyoustartwithanadvantage.

Ilovethesesomuch,Ihavetobecarefulnottoeateveryone’spackedlunchwhenImakethem.

1heapedcupshredded,coldcookedchicken¼cuporganicmayonnaisemincedorcrushedgarlic,optional⅔cupParmesancheeseshards2cupschoppediceberglettuce

¼teaspoonWorcestershiresaucesaltandpeppertotaste4softcorntortillas

1Putalltheingredients,exceptthetortillawraps,inabowlandmixwell.

2Placeatortillaonthecounterinfrontofyouandspoonaquarterofthemixtureontoaquarterofthewrap.Foldthewrapinhalf,andtheninquarters,soaflat,doubledsidecoversthebulgyfilledside,andproceedwiththeremainingthreetortillas.

3Wrapwellinaluminumfoilbeforetraveling.

Makes4

ROCKYROADCRUNCHBARS

Nooneisevergoingtocomplainabouthavingoneoftheseintheirlunchbox,andthey’reprettyhandytohavearoundinthekitchenforaquick,snatchedburstofenergyatanytime.

I’mnotclaimingthemtobeahealthfood,butwhenyou’retalkingaboutlunchontherun,packingquiteafewcaloriesintoasmallparcelcanbeviewedasapositiveadvantage.That’smyview,andI’mstickingtoit.

½cup(1stick)plus1tablespoonsoftbutter10ozsemisweetchocolate,brokenintopieces¼cuplightcornsyrup

8ozplainhardandcrunchycookies,suchasNabiscoSocialTeaBiscuits2cupsminimarshmallows

2teaspoonspowderedsugar

1Meltthebutter,chocolate,andcornsyrupinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.Scoopoutabout½cupofthismeltedmixtureandsetaside.

2Putthecookiesintoafreezerbagandthenbashthemwitharollingpin.Youarelookingforbothcrumbsandpiecesofcookies.

3Foldthecookiepiecesandcrumbsintothemeltedchocolatemixture,andthenaddthemarshmallows.

4Tipintoa9-inch-squarealuminumfoilpanandflattenasbestyoucanwithaspatula.Pouroverthereserved½cupofmeltedchocolatemixtureandsmooththetop.

5Refrigerateforatleast2hoursorovernight.

6Cutinto24fingersanddustwithpowderedsugarbypushingitgentlythroughasmallfine-meshsieveorteastrainer.

Makes24

Makes24

SESAMEPEANUTNOODLES

Ialwaysmakealargevatofthesesincethey’relovelytokeeptopickatinthefridge,too.Plus,althoughthey’reeasytomake,youdoneedquiteafewingredients—andthisholdstruewhetheryou’remakingasmallorbigbatch,soyoumayaswellgoallout.

FORTHEDRESSING:1tablespoonsesameoil1tablespoongarlic-infusedoil1tablespoonsoysauce2tablespoonssweetchilesauce⅓cupsmoothpeanutbutter2tablespoonslimejuice

FORTHESALAD:1¼lbscookedeggnoodles2cupsbeansprouts,rinsed1½cupssnowpeas1redpepper,seededandcutintosmallstrips2scallions,finelysliced¼cupsesameseeds¼cupchoppedfreshcilantro

1Whisktogetherallofthedressingingredientsinabowlorsmallpitcher.

2Putthenoodles,beansprouts,snowpeas,slicedredpepper,andslicedscallionsintoabowl.

3Pouroverthedressingandmixthoroughlytocoateverythingwell.

4Sprinklewiththesesameseedsandcilantroandpackupasneeded.

Serves8

BANANABUTTERSCOTCHMUFFINS

Agreatportionofmylifeisspentbakingwithbananas.Idon’tknowthatIwouldhaveactivelychosenthispath,butsinceIhaven’tbeenabletoshakeoffmyinabilitytothrowfoodaway,ever,Iamineluctablydriventofindwaysofsalvagingbananastooripetobeeasilyeatenraw.It’shardtoresistthelureofthesemuffins,andtheyareincrediblyquickandeasytomixupandbake.Furthermore,theirresilientsquidginessmakesthemverygoodtravelers.

Whitechocolatemorselscanbeusedinplaceofthebutterscotchonesandmychildrenseemtolovebothwithequalfervor,thoughI’mprettyfondofthesewithdarkchocolatechips,too.

½cupvegetableoil2eggs1⅔cupsflour½cupsugar1teaspoonbakingpowder½teaspoonbakingsoda1¼cupsmashedbananas(2–3ripebananas)1cupbutterscotch(orchocolate)chips

1Preheattheovento400°Fandlinea12-cupmuffinpanwithpaperliners.

2Measuretheoilintoalargeglassmeasuringcupandbeatintheeggs.

3Puttheflour,sugar,bakingpowder,andbakingsodaintoalargebowlandmixintheliquidingredients,followedbythemashedbananas.

4Foldinthebutterscotchchips,thendivideequalquantitiesintothewaitingmuffinpan—Iuseanicecreamscoopandaspatula—andbakeinthepreheatedovenfor20minutes.

Makes12

CRUNCHYSALADWITHHOTANDSOURDRESSING

Aswiththesesamepeanutnoodles,thisisoneofthosesaladsIlovetohavearoundtopickatfromthefridge,andunlikethenoodles,itistheverymodeloflow-calvirtue.Butbecauseit’sgotsuchpowerfulflavors,suchbite,itfeelsmorefillingandsubstantialthanithastherighttobe.Itreallykeepsyougoing,whichcanbeusefulhalfwaythroughalongdayatwork.

FORTHEDRESSING:2tablespoonsricevinegar2tablespoonscanolaoil1–2teaspoonsTomYampaste(accordingtotaste)1teaspoonsesameoil

1teaspoonhoneysprinklingofkoshersalt

FORTHESALAD:2cupsbroccolifloretscutinto1-inchpieces1cupquarteredslendergreenbeans1cupbabycorn,eachcobcutinto4

2cupsfinelyshreddednapacabbage2cupsbeansprouts1cupbuttonmushrooms,sliced

1Whisktogetherthedressingingredientsinaglassmeasuringcup.

2Cookthebroccolifloretswiththefinebeansandbabycornfor2minutesinapanofboilingwater.Drainandrefreshthembyplungingtheminasinkortubofcoldwater.

3Puttheshreddedcabbage,beansprouts,andslicedmushroomsintoabowlandaddthedrainedandrefreshedvegetables.

4Dressthesalad,tossingeverythingtogetherwell.

Serves4–6,dependingonwhetheryou’reeatingthisaslunchinitsentiretyorasasidedish

LUNCHBOXTREATS

Thisisexactlywhatitsaysinthetitle:crunchy,crisp,sweet,andtoothsome,andthereallygoodthingontopofallthatisthat,asaparent,youfeelyouaredoingyourchildrengoodwhileatthesametimegivingthematreat.Theamountofmilkchocolateisscant,andIgetawarmrushfromconsideringthenutritionalbenisonsofmalt,oats,andsesameseeds.

½cupricemaltsyrup¼cupbutter2ozmilkchocolate2cupscrispyricecereal1cupcornflakes½cupquick-cookingoats(notinstantoatmeal)½cupsesameseeds

1Meltthesyrup,butter,andchocolategentlyinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.

2Addalltheotheringredients,turningtocoateverythingwell.

3Usingyourhands(encasedinlatexgloves),shapethemixtureintowalnut-sizedballs.Youshouldgetabout25;youcouldalsomakethisusinga12-cupmuffinpanwithpaperlinerstoget12cupcakes.

4Letthemsetinthefridgeforanhourorso,andtheywillkeepquitehappilyinthereforaweekoftreats.

Makes25treatsor12cupcakes

MORTADELLAPASTASALAD

Ihaveacertainamountofambivalenceaboutpastasalads,butfindthatmyemotionalseesawtipsevermoreinfavorofthem.Truthis,Iusedtobescathing.Butfindingthemsopopularwithmychildrenmakesmeseetheirvirtues.

Thisoneisafavoriteathome,thoughnoneofmyfinickylotwantthegreenbits;ifyousufferthesameirritationsandconstraints,takeouttheparsleyandleaveitforadultstosprinkleoptionally.

8ozfusillipasta2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil2tablespoonslemonjuice1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt½teaspoonmildGermanmustard,orsimilar1thickslicemortadellain1piece,about5oz,dicedinto¼-inchpiecestogive1cup½cupfinelychoppedcurlyparsley,optional⅓cupParmesancheese,flaked

1Bringapanofwatertoaboil,addsalttotaste,thencookthepastaaccordingtothepackageinstructions.

2Meanwhile,whisktogethertheoil,lemonjuice,salt,andmustardtomakethedressing.

3Drainthecookedpastaandtipitintoalargebowl,pouroverthedressing,andtosswelltocoat.

4Whencoolstirinthemortadellapieces,choppedparsley(ifusing),andParmesan.Checktheseasoning,addingsaltandpepperasrequired.

Serves4asapackedlunch

MINIMEATLOAVES

Makethese,eatthem,andyou’llseehowglorioustheyare;Iknowonlytoowellthattheydon’tlooksogood.Butlet’snotgointothat.Ifindthesenotonlydelicious,butarealboontoboot:IcanmakeupawholebatchandfreezetheonesIdon’twanttodispenseimmediately.Thisisawonderfultime-saver.

Theseminimeatloavesarebesteatencold,eitherdunkedinmayo,ketchup,ormustard,orslicedandmadeupintosandwicheswiththewholefandangoofsauces.Isometimesaddsomelingonberrytothemix,too.Throwinagherkinandsomepicklesandthisislunchnirvana.Don’tforgetthenapkins,though.

1lbsausagemeat1lbgroundbeef1cupquick-cookingoats(notinstantoatmeal)⅓cupA.1.SteakSauce2eggs,beaten2teaspoonsWorcestershiresauce1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt

1Preheattheovento400°F.

2Combinealloftheaboveinabowl,mixingreallywellwithyourhandsorafork.

3Dividethemixtureinto12balls,andthenshapethemintominiloaves.

4Sittheminimeatloavesonabakingsheetwithspacebetweenthemandcookfor30minutes.

5Youcouldeatthemhot,butbestletthemcoolandkeepinthefridgetosliceandeatinsandwiches.

Makes12

SPANISHOMELETTE

There’ssomethingaboutachunkygoldentriangleofpotato-and-pepper-filledomelettethatmakesapackedlunchorpicnicfeelsunshine-filledandcheery.Thisiseasyenoughtomake,butyoudoneedtogetitdoneinadvanceasthehottestyouwanttoeatthisisroomtemperature.

Itisoftendecreedthattheonlyingredients(otherthantheeggsofcourse)propertoaSpanishomeletteareonionsandpotatoes,butIlikealittletouchofoléredwithsomechoppedpeppers.Useeithertheconfettidiceofroastedredpeppersthatcomesinjars,orbuyajarofwholeroastedonesandroughlychopthemyourself.

Iamsorryifthisoffends—andnotonlytheSpanish—butyoucouldspeedthisupbyusingsomedrained,cannednewpotatoesinsteadofcookingrealones.

8ozbabynewpotatoes,halved4eggs½cupgratedManchegoorCheddarcheese⅓cupchoppedroastedredpeppersfromajar3scallions,finelysliced

saltandpeppertotaste1teaspoonbutterdropofoil

1Turnonthebroilerandletitheatupwhileyoustartofftheomelette.

2Cookthenewpotatoesinboilingwaterfor15minutesuntilcookedthrough,thendrain.

3Whisktheeggsinabowl,thenaddthepeppers,springonions/scallions,andcheeseandseasonwithsaltandpepper,thenaddthecooked,drainedpotatoes.

4Heatthebutterandoilinasmallskillet,andoncehotpourintheomelettemixandcookgentlyfor5minutes.

5Bythistime,thebottomoftheomeletteshouldbesetandratherthanturnit,

simplysittheskilletunderthebroilerforafewminutestosetthetop.

6Turntheomeletteupsidedownontoaplatetoletcool.Don’tworryifitfeelsalittlewibbly-wobblyinthemiddle,asitwillcarryoncookingasitcools.

7Oncecool,sliceinto4largeor8smallerwedges.

Serves4ormore,dependingonwhatelseisavailabletoeatatthesametime

BUTTERMILKROASTCHICKEN

Buttermilkchickenhaslongbeenoneofmyfavoritealfrescosummersuppers.Mymethodofchoicehasusuallybeentobutterflyachicken—orrather,manychickens—andthencutthemintofeistyquarterstolayeruponservingplates.I’vealteredthistomakecookingspeedier,andconveyingeasier,byusingonlydrumsticks.

12chickendrumsticks(approx.3lbstotalweight)2cupsbuttermilk¼cupplus2tablespoonsvegetableoil2clovesgarlic,bruisedandskinsremoved1tablespooncrushedpeppercorns

1tablespoonkoshersaltor1½teaspoonstablesalt1teaspoongroundcumin1tablespoonmaplesyrup

1Placethechickendrumsticksinalargefreezerbag,andaddthebuttermilkand¼cupofoil.

2Addthebruisedgarlicclovestothebagwiththecrushedpeppercornsandsalt.

3Sprinkleinthegroundcuminandfinallyaddthemaplesyrup,andthensquisheverythinginthefreezerbagaroundtomixthemarinadeandcoatthechicken.

4Leavethebuttermilk-marinatedchickeninthefridgeideallyovernightoroutofthefridgeforatleast30minutesandupto1hour.

5Preheattheovento425°F.Takethechickenpiecesoutofthebag,shakingofftheexcessmarinade,andthenarrangetheminaroastingpanlinedwithaluminumfoil.

6Drizzleoverthe2remainingtablespoonsofoil,andthenroastintheovenforabout30minutes,oruntilbrown,evenscorchedinparts,andjuicilycookedthrough.

Serves6

Serves6

NEWORLEANSCOLESLAW

Thisismyaccompanimentofchoiceforthebuttermilkchicken.Indeed,Ihaveevenconvertedfiercelycommittedanti-coleslawerswithit.Ican’trememberwhyIcallitmyNewOrleansColeslawnow(I’vebeenmakingit,oraversionofit,forsolong),butIthinkithassomethingtodowithallthewonderfulpecantreesIsawwhenIwasthere.

Doserveapotatosaladalongsideifyouwant:Yousee,inthepicturehereyouseesomebabynewpotatoesdousedinoliveoil,salt,andalittlelimejuice,shakenaboutinamustardjar.

1headofwhiteorsavoycabbage,weighingabout2lbsbeforetrimming2carrots4scallions2stalkscelery1cupbest-quality,preferablyorganic,store-boughtmayonnaise¼cupbuttermilk2tablespoonsmaplesyrup2teaspoonsapplecidervinegarsaltandpeppertotaste⅔cuppecans,fairlyfinelychopped

1Trimandshredthecabbage;youcandothiseitherbyhandorwithafoodprocessor.

2Peelandgratethecarrots,andfinelyslicethescallionsandcelery.Tossallthevegetablestogetherinabowl.

3Whisktogetherthemayonnaise,buttermilk,maplesyrup,andvinegarandcoattheshreddedvegetableswiththisdressing.

4Seasontotastewithsaltandpepperandtossinthechoppednuts.

Serves6

CLOUDYLEMONADEFORASUNNYDAY

Iamthinkingthatcarryingapitcheroflemonadeoutintotheyardorgardencountsasportablefood,andsinceIamalways,alwaysinahurryIamnodoubtontherun.Youcould,ofcourse,pourthisgloriouslysimple,old-fashionedlemonadeintoathermosflaskandtakeitonyourway.

Ifthemoodtakesyou,youcouldconsideraddingahandfulofraspberriestotheblenderjartocreatepinklemonade.

4cupschilledclubsodaorothercarbonatedwater2wholeunwaxedlemons,cutintoeighths¼cupsuperfinesugar,ortotasteicecubes

1Putthewater,lemons,andsugarintoablenderintwobatches,andblitzuntilthelemonispureed.

2Sievethelemonadeintoapitcher,pressingdownintothesieve,andthenpourintotumblersfilledwithice.

Serves4–6

HOKEYPOKEY

Iwasgoingtosaythatthisisn’tasfunasitsounds,butthenIreconsidered.HokeypokeyistheCornishtermforhoneycomb,andiswonderfuleateningoldenshardsorcrumbledintothebestvanillaicecream.YoucanalsouseitinplaceoftheButterfingerbarshereandhere.Iincludeithereasitistheperfectpresenttotaketoadinnerparty.Betterthanflowers,astheyneedtobeputintoavase,betterthanchocolate,whichpeopletendtosmilepolitelyat,butputawayinadrawer:NoonecanresistabitofHokeyPokey,I’vefound.

ThequantitiesI’vespecifieddon’tmakeanawfullot—enoughtofillalittletinabout4½inchesindiameterand2½inchesdeep—butanymoreandyou’dbesuedbyyourdentist.

½cupsugar4tablespoonsdarkcornsyrup1½teaspoonsbakingsoda

1Putthesugarandsyrupintoasaucepanandstirtogethertomix.Youcan’tstironcethepan’sontheheat,though.

2Placethepanontheheatandletthemixturefirstmeltandthenturntogooandthenabubblingmassthecolorofmaplesyrup—thiswilltake3minutesorso.

3Offtheheat,whiskinthebakingsodaandwatchthesyrupturnintoawhooshingcloudofaeratedpalegold.Turnthisimmediatelyontoapieceofreusablebakingparchment(Silpat)orgreasedaluminumfoil.

4Leaveuntilsetandthenbashatitsothatitsplintersintomanyglintingpieces.

Makes2cups

Ihavespentalot—amajoritynow,cometothinkofit—ofmyadultlifepretendingtomyselfthatIamItalian.Well,maybe“pretend”isthewrongword:IknowIamnotreally,butfeelmyselftobe.ButsinceIhavethemisfortunenottobeItalianinreality,Imustbeentitledtoone—theonlyonesurely—oftheadvantages.Andthatis,IcanplayalittlefastandloosewithItaly’sculinarytraditions.Irespectthem,Ilovethem,butwhat—truly—wouldbethepointofgivingyouheretherespectedandlovedrecipesthatcenturiesuponcenturiesofItalianshavebeencookingastraditiondecrees?Partofmewouldindeedlovetodojustthat(andIhavesomeplans,simmeringawayonabackburner,thatmightpermitsuchathinginthedistantfuturo),butfornowIwantedtobeasfaithfullyItalianasIcouldinmyreworkingofrecipes,whilenotfeelingIhadtobeslavishlyauthentic.

Thisisn’tnecessarilyaboutcuttingcorners;oneofthegreatattractionsofmuchItaliancookingisitsspeed,directness,andsimplicity.ButIdoknowalsothatmanyItalianfriendsofmygenerationandyoungerdon’tcook,feelingthattheirlivesaremorefreneticandwork-dominatedthanthelivestheirparentsandgrandparentslived.TherecipesthatfollowattempttomakeItalianfoodmanageable,andeasilymanageable,afteralongdayattheoffice—andI’veusedanItalianjournalistfriendasaguineapigtomakesurethatI’vesucceededinthat,withoutoffendingrealliveItalians.

I’vetwiddledandfiddledalittle,becausethat’swhatmakescookingalive.Ilovethissortoffood,andplayingaroundwithitinthekitchenisalwaysalifterofthespirit.Thehardestthinghasbeenwhittlingdownthischaptersoitdoesn’ttakeoverthewholebook.SoknowthatwhatfollowsisthebackboneofmyrepertoireandtherecipesIjustcouldn’t,couldn’tlivewithout.Hopeyoufeelthesameway.

TUNAANDBEANS

ThishasalwaysbeentheItalianantipastobutalthoughtraditionallyyouaremorelikelytocomeacrossitasthecombinationoftonnoandcannellini,Ilovethefleckedterra-cottaofcranberrybeans,givingyouthecolorsofTuscanyonaplate.

AndifyouarefeelinglessformallyItalianateinmood,thenthismakesasimple,speedysupperfortwo;allI’dwantalongsideissomegoodbread.

⅓cupfinelychoppedredonion¼cuplemonjuice214-ozcansborlottiorcranberrybeans18-ozcanbest-qualitytunatogive1¼cups2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoilsaltandpeppertotaste2tablespoonschoppedparsley

1Putthechoppedonionintoabowlwiththelemonjuiceandletitsteepwhileyougetonwiththesalad.

2Drainthebeansandrinsethemtogetridofanygloop,thenarrangetheminabowl.

3Drainthetunaandflakeitintothebeans.

4Addtheoliveoiltotheonionandlemonjuicemixtureandwhisktomakeadressing,pourthisoverthetunaandbeans,andtransfertoyourservingdish.

5Forkthesaladthrough,seasoningwithsaltandpepper,andthenscatterovertheparsley;ifyouwanttoputthisonaplate(ratherthanadish),considerstrewingtheplatewitharugulafirst,orusingittomakealeafyborder.

Serves4–6asastarteroraspartofameal

MOZZARELLAWITHCRAZYGREMOLATA

Therearenobadwaysofeatinggoodmozzarella.Iamperfectlyhappyjustwithasprinklingofsaltandagreenglugofoliveoil,butthisissomethingspecial.Gremolata—orgremolada—isthetraditionalflavoringspritzgiventoossobuco,andisasprinklymixtureofgratedlemonzest,garlic,andparsley.Mine,here,isanexuberant,madcapversion,fulloffireandflavorandgorgeouslyvibrantagainstthemilkywhiteofthemozzarella.

2ballsbuffalomozzarella1longredchile,deseededandfinelychopped6blackolives,finelychoppedzestof1unwaxedlemon½clovegarlic,minced

½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoontablesalt3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil2tablespoonsfinelychoppedparsley

1Slicethemozzarellainto¼-inchroundsandarrangethemonaplate.

2Inabowl,mixthechoppedchilewiththechoppedolives,lemonzest,andmincedgarlic.

3Tipinthesalt,oil,andparsleyandstirtogethertomakeyourc-c-c-c-razygremolata.

4Spoonthegremolatadownthecenterofyourslicedmozzarella.

Serves6aspartofastarter

PAPPARDELLEWITHESCAROLE

Thisisassimpleandasbasicasarecipecouldbe,andallthebetterforit.IlovethewayItalianscookgreenswiththeirpasta,andoftenthosearetherecipes,perhapsthoughttobeunglamorous,thatdon’tmakeitoverhere.Andmaybeit’salsothecasethatnon-Italiansneedalittlemorepersuasiontothrowalettuceintotheirsaucepan.Ifyoucan’tgetescarole,whichisamemberoftheendivefamily,useanysimilarlettuce—curlyendive,frisee,orsomesuch.Whatyouwantisarobustleafwithanedgeofbitterness,andwithitIthinkyouneedanequallyrobustpasta.Ialwaysgoforthethickroughribbonofpappardelle,butfailingthat,youmightconsiderrigatoni.

1tablespoongarlic-infusedoliveoil1teaspoondriedcrushedchiles16–18cupsroughlyslicedescarole1cupwhitewine

1cupwater1lbeggpappardelle½cupchoppedparsley½cupflakedParmesancheesesalttotaste1longredchile,deseededandfinelychopped,optional

1Putalargepotofwaterontoboilforthepappardelle.

2Inanother—wide—pan,heattheoilgentlywiththedriedchileflakes,andthenaddtheslicedescarole,stirringtohelpitwiltdownintheoil.

3Addthewineandwaterandpartiallycoverthepan,lettingtheescarolecook,bubblingaway,forabout6minutesandletthepastacookinitspanatthesametime.

4Tossthedrainedpastaintothecookedescarole(thiswillbeafairlyliquidmixture)andscatterwiththeparsleyandcheese,checkingtheseasoningasyoudoso;decoratethetopwiththefreshredchileifyouwantenhancedheatandcolor.

Serves4–6

Serves4–6

LINGUINEWITHLEMON,GARLIC,ANDTHYMEMUSHROOMS

Thisisoneofmyproudestcreations,andIsupposeagoodexampleofarecipethatisn’ttraditionallyfromItaly,butsitsuncontroversiallyinherculinarycanon.Idon’tthinkitwouldbetoopresumptuoustonamethislinguineaifunghicrudi.Itisaboutasspeedyasyoucanimagine:Youdonomoretothemushroomsthanslicethem,steeptheminoil,garlic,lemon,andthyme,andtossthemintothehotcookedpasta.I’mafraidIhadtohavethisforciblytakenawayfrommeduringthephotoshootforthisbook,otherwiseI’dhaveeatenitallupbeforeithadevenhaditspicturetaken.

Thedressedmushroomsalsomakeagreatsalad,butinwhichcaseboostthequantitiesofslicedmushrooms(keepingotheringredientsthesame,andobviouslyyou’reomittingthepastaaltogether)to6cups.

Ifallyoucanfindareregularbuttonmushrooms,thispastaisstillworthmaking—sonoexcusefornot.

8oz/4cupsfinelyslicedcreminimushrooms⅓cupextravirginoliveoil1tablespoonkoshersaltor1½teaspoonstablesaltsmallclovegarlic,minced

zestandjuiceofalemon4sprigsfreshthyme,strippedtogive1teaspoonleaves1lblinguine1bunchparsley,choppedtogive½cup2–3tablespoonsfreshlygratedParmesancheese,ortotastefreshlygroundpepper

1Slicethemushroomsfinely,andputthemintoalargebowlwiththeoil,salt,mincedgarlic,lemonjuiceandzest,andgorgeouslyscentedthymeleaves.

2Cookthepastaaccordingtothepackageinstructionsanddrainloosely,retainingsomewater.Quicklyputthepastaintothebowlwiththemushroommixture.

3Tosseverythingtogetherwell,andthenaddtheparsley,cheese,andpepperbeforetossingagain,andeatwithjoyinyourheart.

Serves4–6

SPAGHETTINIWITHSHRIMPANDCHILE

ThisiswhatImakeforpeoplewhenIwantsomethingthatneedsnothought,nofuss,noeffortbutwillguaranteeinstantgratificationallaround.Ikeeptheshrimpinthedeepfreezeandeitherthawthemovernight(ormorelikelyfrombreakfasttimetillafterwork)inthefridge,ordoaquickthawjobwhenIgethome.Thesunblushtomatoesaregenerallystashedinmyfridgetospruceupsalads,makeupaquicksauce,orgussyuppastajustlikethis.

1½cupsfrozencookedpeeledshrimp,defrostedsalt8ozspaghettini¼cupfinelyslicedscallions½teaspooncrushedchileflakes2tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil1cupsunblushtomatoesinseasonedoil½cupwhitewineorNoillyPrat1½cupsarugula¼cupchoppedflat-leafparsley

1Draintheshrimpandleavetoonesideforthemoment.

2Putoncopiousamountsofwatertoboil,thenwhenboilingaddsaltandthenthepastaandcookaccordingtopackageinstructions,orslightlyunder.

3Inalargepan(bigenoughtotakethepastalater),frythefinelyslicedscallionsandchileflakesinthegarlicoilforacoupleofminutes,thentipinthetomatoeswiththeiroilandtheshrimp.

4Whenbothhavewarmedthrough,addthewhitewineorNoillyPratandletbubbleup.Addthearugula,tornroughly,andstirtillwiltedalittle.

5Strainthepastawhenready,reservinghalfacuporsoofpasta-cookingwater,andtossthedrainedpastainthechile-shrimppan.

6Turnoutintoalargewarmedservingbowlandtosseverythingagainsothatalliscombined,addingalittleofthecookingwaterifitneedsitandadding

moreoilorgarlicoilifyouwant.

7Sprinklewiththechoppedflat-leafparsley,andserve.

Serves4asastarter,2asamaincourse

BLACKPASTAWITHREDMULLET

Whileit’struethatcoloredpasta—eventheimpeccablyauthenticblacksquidpasta—iseatenverymuchmoreoutofItalythanwithinit,thisrecipeisinspiredbythemostwonderfulfishpastaIhadthesummerbeforelastatasmallrestaurant,LaFontanina,ontheroadthatspiralsupfromPortoSantoStefanoontheTuscancoast.Itendtomakethisasaspecialtreat,assupperfortwo,butifyouwantto,ofcourseserveitasastarter,butgolight,verylight,afterward.

Iuseroséwine,becausethat’swhatIdrink—clinkedwithiceandspritzedwithsoda—throughoutsummer,butwhitewouldbefine,andmuchmoreItaliantoboot.

I’veindicatedthepastaIcustomarilyuse(andbuyfromthesupermarket)asitismuchmoretenderthanthedriedsquidpasta.Butplease,useanytender,thinribbonsofpastayouwant.Andifredmulletisnotavailable,northerngoatfishorredporgyarethebestalternatives.Basswouldbealovelybutexpensiveoption.

2tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil2scallions,finelysliced7–9ozredmullet,goatfish,orredporgyfillets1cuproséwine½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoontablesaltgoodgrindingofpepper2tomatoes,halved,deseeded,thenchoppedintodice2tablespoonsdrainedcapers1tablespoonbutter8ozfreshblacksquidtagliolini⅓cupbasilleaves

1Putasaucepanfulofwaterontoboilforthepasta.

2Heattheoilinaskilletandcookthescallionsforaminutebeforeaddingthefishfillets,skinsidedown.

3Turnthefilletsoverafteraminuteor2,thenpourinthewineandaddthesaltandpepper.

4Oncethefilletsarecookedthrough,whichshouldbeinaboutanotherminute,liftthemoutandwrapinaluminumfoiltokeepwarm.

5Letthewineypanjuicesbubbledownforabout3minutes,thentipthetomatodice,capers,andbutterintothepanandwhiskontheheat.

6Cookthefreshpasta—itwilltakeabout2minutes—anddrainit,putitintothesauce,thentossgentlybutwell.

7Flakethefish,leavingtheredskinonparts,andtenderlytossthroughthepastawiththebasil,leavingsomemoretosprinkleonwhenyouserve.

Serves2asamaincourse,4asastarter

POLLOALLACACCIATORA

Thisisanoldfavorite—chickencooked“thehunter’sway”—whichgrantsacertainamountofculinarylicense.This,myversion,istraditionalenough,onlyspeededupandsimplified.Theonlyunexpecteddeviationliesintheadditionofacanofcannellinibeans.This,ineffect,turnsitintoaquick,one-pot,all-inclusivesupper.Havingsaidthat,Ialsoadoreit—asdomychildren—withplainsteamedriceaswell.Butwhatever,whenIcookthis,IknowIcancountongettingsupperonthetablefromscratchcomfortablyinunderhalfanhour.

1tablespoongarlic-infusedoil½cuppancettacubes6scallions,finelysliced1teaspoonfinelychoppedfreshrosemary1lbchickenthighfillets,eachcutinto4pieces½teaspooncelerysalt

½cupwhitewine114-ozcanchoppedtomatoes2bayleaves½teaspoonsugar114-ozcancannellinibeans,optional

1Putthegarlicoilintoapanwiththepancetta,slicedscallions,andchoppedrosemaryandfryforacoupleofminutes.

2Addthebite-sizedchickenpieces,stirringwell,andsprinkleinthecelerysalt.

3Pourinthewineandletitcometoabubblebeforeaddingthetomatoes,bayleaves,andsugar.Putthelidonandletthepansimmerfor20minutes.

4Drainandaddacanofcannellinibeans(ifusing),andwhentheyhavewarmedthroughtoo,youarereadytoeat.

Serves4

LAMBRIBCHOPSWITHCHILEANDBLACKOLIVES

NoonedoeslambchopsbetterthantheItaliansandthisrecipe,whichcomestomebywayofthegreatAnnaDelConte,isacaseinpoint.Thenuggetsofpinkmeataresotenderandflavorful,youjustwanttognaweverymorselrightoffthebone.

I’dkeepsidedishesplain—maybesomesteamednewpotatoesandgreenbeansorsomesuch—asthisneedsnoattention-seekingembellishment.

AndIcan’ttellyouhowheavenlytheyare,shouldyoubeluckyenough(andit’sunlikely)tohavesomeleftover,snatchedcoldstraightfromthefridgethedayafter.

12lambribchops¼cupoliveoil3clovesgarlic,peeledandsliced1teaspoonchileflakes1teaspoondriedoreganozestandjuiceof1smalllemon1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt15blackolives,pittedandsliced2tablespoonsoil,forfrying1longredchile,deseededandfinelychopped,optional

1Layertheribchopsbetweenplasticwrapandflattenthemgentlywitharollingpinormeatmallet.Placethechopsinalargedishsothattheyallfitinasinglelayer.

2Pouroverthe¼cupofoilandaddthegarlic,chile,oregano,andlemonzestandjuice.Sprinkleoverthesaltandtheolivesandthenturntheribchopsinthemarinadesothatbothsidesarecoated.

3Coverandleavethelambtomarinatefor20minutesatroomtemperaturebeforecooking.

4Heatalargeskilletwiththe2tablespoonsofoilandaddthechops,scrapingoffthemarinadebeforeyouputtheminthepan.Frythemforacoupleofminutesasideonquiteahighheatsothattheytakeonsomecolor.

5Turntheheatbackdowntomediumandpourthemarinadeintothepanoverthecoloredchops.Add2tablespoonsorsoofwatersothattheycookinalittleliquid.Cookforabout5minutesforrarecutletsoralittlelongerifyoulikeyourlambwellcooked(thiswillalsodependonthethicknessofthechops).

6Transferthelambtoaservingplate,pouroverthejuicesfromthepan,andsprinklewiththechoppedredchileshouldyoufeellikeenhancingthedriedchilewiththepepoffresh.

Serves4

LIVERWITHBACONANDCHARREDONIONS

Liverisnotforeveryone,Iadmit,andIwouldn’tadvisecookingitforadinnerparty.Butthosewholoveit,adoreit,anditmakesagreattreatforasupperfortwo.LiverandonionsisasItalianasitisBritish(thoughverydifferent)andIaddbacontothis,asthesaltyjuicesaretheperfectfryingmediumfortheliver,addingfoilandcounterpointtoitsmoussey,sweetflesh.Iliketokeepthetonesbeautifullysomber;withthescorcheddarkpinkofthebaconaresplinteredsweetstrandsofblackenedredonion,andwiththeliver—ashomagetofegatoallavenezianaandbecausethefreshbitternessisjustwhat’sneeded—Imakeasaladofmaroon-leafedradicchio.

Ifyoufeellikeenhancingtherenaissancepaintingatmosphere,considerscatteringsomepomegranateseedsontop.

4slicesbacon1teaspoongarlic-infusedoil1½cupsthinlyslicedhalf-moonsofredonion12ozverythinlyslicedcalf’sliver,about4long,thinpieces2tablespoonsbalsamicvinegar2tablespoonswater

1tablespoonchoppedparsley

1Cookthebaconintheteaspoonofgarlicoiluntilverycrisp,andthenremovetopapertowelsandthentoapieceofaluminumfoil,wrappingtheslicesintoabaggybuttightlysealedparceltokeepwarm.

2Cooktheonionsinthesamepan—intherenderedbaconfat—untilsoftandwiltingandbeginningtocharinparts,andthenremovethemtoabowl.

3Cooktheliverinthesamepanagain,forabout1½minutesasideorlongerifithasn’tbeenverythinlysliced.

4Dividethecookedliverbetween2platesandquicklywashoutthepanwiththevinegarandwater,lettingitbubbleupandmakeascantsyrup.

5Pourthisovertheliverandcoverwiththeonions.Crumbleoverthebaconandsprinklewiththeparsley.

Serves2

ITALIANSAUSAGESINHOTTOMATOSAUCEWITHPOLENTA

Italiansausagesarefabulouslyquicktocook—andfabulouslygoodtoeat.Andifthelambchopshereprovidejusttherightsortofheatforaspringorsummermeal,thesesausagesblanketyouwithwinterwarmth.Theheattheyaredrapedincomesfromacoupleofjarsofreallytop-qualitytomatoandchilepastasauce.Aregularpastasaucejustwon’tcutithere;ithastobeagenuinelyimpressivehigh-endone.

1tablespoonchileoil2lbsItaliansausages,sweetorspicy4tablespoonsMarsalawine2½cupschiletomatosauceforpasta1cupwater1lbinstantpolentaboilingwaterandchickenstockconcentrateorbouilloncubes2tablespoonsoliveoil

1Heatthechileoilinaskilletandaddthesausages,separatingthelinksandlettingthemfryforabout5minutesuntiltheyarecolored.

2AddtheMarsalaandletthepanbubbleforaminuteorso,thenpourthetomatochilesauceandwateroverthesausages.

3Simmerfor15minuteswhileyougetonwithmakinguptheinstantpolentaaccordingtopackageinstructionsonlyusingchickenstock(fromabouilloncubeorconcentrate)ratherthanjustwater.

4Whenthepolenta’scooked,whiskin2tablespoonsofoliveoil.Dividethepolentaamong6warmedplatesandtopwiththesausagesandhottomatosauce.Ifyouhavemoresaucethanyouneedperplate,justpouritintoalittlepitcherforpeopletoaddastheywant.

Serves6

MARSALA-HONEYPEARSWITHGORGONZOLA

WithallduerespecttodeGaulleandhiscountrymen,IwouldhappilyforgoeachandeveryoneofFrance’s246cheesesforonewedgeofGorgonzola.Forme,itisthekingofcheeses,thequeenofcheeses,thegrandempressofcheeses.Thisdishismywayofpayingrespectstoit,althoughIadmitIamperfectlyhappytoeatitallalone(justmeandthecheese).Ifyouwantcheeseattheendofadinnerparty,thenthisisthewaytodoit.

Andwhileit’snotanItalianrecipe,itisentirelyItalianininspiration.Formeit’sautumninMilancastinfood.

2pears(approx1lbtotalweight),eachcutintoeighths(butunpeeledanduncored)2tablespoonsoliveoil(regular,notextravirgin)3tablespoonsMarsalawine2tablespoonshoney½cupwalnuthalves1lbripegorgeousGorgonzolainperfectcondition;itshouldneverhaveseentheinsideofyourfridge

1Whileyouarecuttingthepearsintoeighths—i.e.,quarterthemandhalveeachquarter—lettheoilheatinalargeskillet.

2Frythepearsfor3minutesaside,andwhiletheyarefryingwhisktheMarsalaandhoneytogetherinacup.

3Whenthepearshavehadtheirtime,throwintheMarsala-honeymixtureandletitbubbleupvociferouslyaroundthepears.Thentransferthem,allbronzedandsyrupy,toaplate.

4Addthewalnutstothedarkjuicesleftinthepanandstir-frythemforaboutaminuteuntiltheyarethemselvesdarkenedinpartandstickyallover.RemovethemtotheplatewiththepearsandaddingredientX,yourGorgonzola.

Serves6–8

PEACHESINMUSCAT

TheItalianshaveawayofmakingaspecialdessertoutofunmessed-upsimpleingredients.It’ssomethingtodowiththeirtouch.Imean—takeaffogato,whichisjustascoopofvanillaicecream“drowned”byhavingastronghotcupofespressothrownoverit.Orthere’ssgroppino,whichisascoopofsorbetinaglass,toppedupwithafizzyhitofProsecco.Dessertcanbeentirelystore-boughtandstillfeellikeatreat:YoujustbuyabottleofVinSantoandprovidecantuccinibiscuitstodunkin.

AndIlovethewaytheymakefruitfeelspecialtoo,justbywashinggrapes,cherries,andapricotsandsittingtheminbowlsoficewaterdirectlyonthetable.Thisrecipeisscarcelymorework,andifyoudon’twanttodoanyofitinadvance,thenjustputabottleofMuscatwineonthetableandabowlofpeaches,giveeveryoneasharpknifeandaglass,andletthempourtheirownMuscatandsliceintheirownpeaches.

4ripepeaches1cupsweetMuscatwineorothergooddessertwineheavycreamoricecreamforserving,optional

1Overabowl(tocatchjuices),cuteachpeachintoslices.

2Whenallthepeachesaresliced,pourintheMuscatwineandmakesurethepeachesaremoreorlessfullyimmersed.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforupto6hours;sometimesithelpstobeabletogetstuffdoneinadvance.

3Removethepeachestoaprettyglassbowlortoindividualsmallglassesandserve—stillchilled—withapitcherofheavycreamorsomevanillaicecreamalongside.

Serves6

AMARETTOSYLLABUB

ThisisreallyanAnglo-Italianhybrid:ThesyllabubisentirelyEnglish,thoughtheliqueurusedmakesitItalianintheextreme.Thecrumbledamarettibiscuitsgiveatrifle-likecontrastofsoakedcakeandsoftcream.Utterlydelicious,andwiththemomentsittakestomake,thisissomethingyoucanpulloutanytimeyouwanttoendadinnerpartywithaplomb.

⅓cupAmarettoliqueur2tablespoonssugar1tablespoonlemonjuice1cupheavycream18-ozpackageamarettimorbidi(softalmondmacaroons)

1PourtheAmarettoliqueurintoabowlwiththesugarandlemonjuiceandwhisktomix.

2Whiskintheheavycreamandwhipthismixtureuntilithasthickenedbutisstillsoftandbillowy.

3Crumble2littleamaretticookiesintoeachofthe4glasses(eachwithayieldofabout⅔cup).

4Dividethesyllabubamongtheglassesontopofthecrumbledcookies.

5Crumbleanothermacaroonortwo,andsprinklethisgoldenrubbleoverthetopofalltheglassestogiveafinesprinkleofcrumbsoneach.Servetheremainingamarettialongsidethesyllabub.

Serves4

BUDINODICIOCCOLATO

Thisischocolatepuddingbyanothername,butsomehowitsoundsbetterinItalian.Butfrankly,languageisirrelevanthere:We’retalkingpure,all-encompassingbliss.Whenyoueatitcooled,itislikechocolatesatincreamandalmostshockinginitspleasurableintensity,butIloveit,too,hotandstraightoutofthepanwhenitislikethebesthotchocolateyou’veeverhad,inspoonableform.

1cupwholemilk½cupheavycream⅓cupsugar1tablespooncornstarch⅓cupcocoa2tablespoonsboilingwater2eggyolks1teaspoonvanillaextract2ozdarkchocolate,finelychopped

1Putthekettleontoboilwater,andwarmthemilkandcreamtogethereitherinasaucepanorthemicrowave.

2Putthesugarandcornstarchintoanothersaucepanandsiftinthecocoa.Addthe2tablespoonsofboilingwaterandwhisktoapaste.

3Thenwhiskintheeggyolks,1atatime,followedbythewarmedmilkandcream,andthenthevanillaextract.

4Scrapedownthesidesofyourpanandputitontheheat,cookingandwhiskingforabout3–4minutesuntilthemixturethickens—ifithelps,thinkofaconsistencylikemayonnaise.

5Takeofftheheatandwhiskinthefinelychoppedchocolatebeforepouringinto4smallcupsorglasseseachwithayieldofabout⅔ofacup.

6Coverthetopsofthecupswithplasticwrap,layingitdirectlyontopofthepuddingtostopaskinfromforming,andthenrefrigerateoncetheyarecooler.Makesuretheyarenotstillfridge-coldwhenyouservethem.Youcanaddablobofcreamontopifyoulike.Andseethecookiesonthenextpage.

Serves4

CHOCOLATEMACAROONS

Youdon’thavetoservetheseamarettiscuriwiththeBudinodiCioccolatobutIhadtodosomethingwiththeeggwhitesleftoverfromthepuddingandthisisit.IlovethesemacaroonssomuchthatIgladlymakethemwithoutthatexcuse,though.Theyareheadywithchocolateandgorgeouslychewyand,allinall,dangerouslyaddictive.Luckily(ornot,dependingonyourpointofviewhere)theyarequickandeasytomake.

2eggwhites1½cupspowderedsugar1cupgroundalmonds3tablespoonscocoa

1Preheattheovento400°Fandline2bakingsheetswithbakingparchmentorpreferablySilpat.

2Mixtheeggwhites(unbeaten)withthepowderedsugar,groundalmonds,andcocoauntilyouhaveastickybutcohesivemixture.

3Fillalargebowlwithcoldwateranddipyourhandsinittodampenthembeforerollingthemixtureintolittleballsthesizeofsmallwalnuts.Youwillprobablyhavetoredunkyourhandstokeepwettingthemasyougo.

4Arrangethemacaroon-ballsonthelinedbakingtrays,leavingatleast2inchesbetweenthem,andputintheoventobakefor11minutes.It’shardtotellwhenthey’reready,astheywillseemsquishy,buttheyhardenupalittleastheycool,andanyway,theyshouldbedampwithin;that’swhatmakesthemchewy,sodon’tworrythattheunderneathsofthemacaroonslooksticky.

Makesabout25

Thereissomethingabouttheholidayseasonthatseemstoinstillapiercingfearandquiteunparalleledtremorofexpectationinpeople.Ican’tquiteworkoutwhetherthegreaterpartisdreadorhope—certainlytherearecomponentsofboth—butweseemtofeelthatforthiscrucialperiodwemustsuddenlybecomegreathostsanduntiringchefs,readywithacocktailandafulltableatallhours,athalfanhour’snotice.Thatisthekindofpersonwewanttobe—oh,andunstressed,smilinglyorganized,andunflappabletoo.Canthisbearranged?Uptoapoint.

Strangely,thisisnotthehardesttimeoftheyearforthequickcookatall.Obviously,Ican’tmakeaturkeycookinunder30minutes,butIhavecoveredthatgreatcentralfeastatsomuchlengthbeforethatIthoughtitwisertoconcentrateonthesatelliteareasofstressandrelatedculinaryjuncturepointsanyway.ButIdohaveonequicktipforThanksgivingdinnerasI’mhere,anditisasfollows:Insteadofmakingastuffingfortheturkey,buysomegoodsausagemeat(orIusemyfavoriteCumberlandsausages)fromthebutcherandusingyourhands,wigglesomespacebetweentheskinandthebreastofthebirdandsqueezethesausagemeatinthere.Inotherwords,you’restuffingthetopofthebird(beneaththeskin)ratherthaninsideit.Thencookitattopvolume,sotospeak.Youcanreallyblitzthebird,asthesausagemeatstopsthebreastfromdryingout.Don’tmeantoboast,butIhavegotan18-lb(andthat’sminustheweightofthesausagemeat,mind)turkeycooked—ina475°Foven—intwoandahalfhours.

Butbacktothejobathand:Iwantyoutofeelbetteraboutthebigparties,thelittledinnersthatyousuddenlyfindyourselfgivingwithouthavingquiteintendedtoissuetheinvitation,themealsyouenduphostingforstrayout-of-townersordistantrelatives.

Themaintrick,iftrickitreallybe,istorememberthatabundanceisthekey.Andthemoodofwelcomingplentycanbeboughtwithrelativelylittleeffort.Whatwouldbetiringistotryandthrowapartythataimedtobethenightofathousandcanapés.Mymantrahasalwaysbeen“alotofalittleratherthanalittleofalot.”Inotherwords,choosewhatyouwantandmakealotofthat,ratherthanditheringorfeelingthatyoumustprovideahugearrayandmanychoices,whichwilljustmultiplyyourlaborsand,intheend,becauseyou’llhavelessofeach,itwon’tlookascozilywelcoming.

Asinfood,soindecoration.Idon’tlikegarishness,butIwantwarmth,andI

Asinfood,soindecoration.Idon’tlikegarishness,butIwantwarmth,andItakethetea-lightroute.Thisdoesn’thavetobeexpensive:Ijustput“votivecandle”intotheeBaysearchfieldandthenbatch-buycheap.Onceyou’vegotaroomdottedwithredorpumpkin-coloredshot-glasscandleholders,eachonealight,itdoesn’tmatteriftheycostnexttonothingeach;indeedit’sbetter.Andremember,evenifeachonelookshideousclose-up,theywilllookfineenmasse.Itsoundsstrange,butthat’strue.Uglyflowersarethesame:Theyworkinabundance.Justthink:Abunchofmarigoldsishideous;afieldofthem,impressive.

Andyou’vegotanadvantagewithcandles,asthelighttheygiveoffisalwaysbeautiful.NotthatI’maversetoChristmaslights,either.Ilovethemeverywheresolongasthey’rewhiteanddon’tflicker.Thistimeofyearanywayinvitesexcess,sodon’tworryaboutoverdoinganything,andjustgoforit.Theonlythingthatruinsapartyisanxiety.ButI’mnotgoingtobesoirritatingastotellyouyoudon’thavetoworry:I’mgivingyoutherecipesthatwillmakeyouknowyoudon’thaveto.

ALITTLEBITOFTHEHOLIDAYSPIRIT

Icertainlydon’tthinkyouneedtoofferachoiceofdrinksataparty,exceptthatyoumustprovidebothforthosewhodoanddonotdrinkalcohol,butit’sgoodtohaveafewseasonalcocktailsinmind.TheSnowballhasfallenoutoffavor,Iknow,butit’sapity:Itcouldhardlybemoreseasonalandtasteslikegrown-upicecreamsoda,plusit’sverymucheasiertomakethaneggnog.ChristmasinaGlassisreallywhatitis:ThesmellofthegingerbreadsyrupastheProsecco’sfizzspritzesitthroughtheairisalmostparodicallyfestive.IusetheFrenchsyrup(mentionedearlierinthebook)thatbartendershavedecoratingtheirshelvesandIgetitonline,butnowthatthere’sacoffeeshopatprettymucheverycorner,it’sveryeasytobuythegingerbreadsyruptheyusetodousetheirlattesatthistimeoftheyear.AsforthePomegranateBellini,thisisjustProsecco(orotherdryfizzywhitewineofyourchoice)withpomegranateinplaceofpeachpuree.Ifyoucan’tfindthepomegranatepuree(which,again,Ibuyonline),thendosubstituteitwiththe100percentpomegranateyoucanfindalittlemoreeasily:It’sthinnerandlessintense,somaybeconsideradashofgrenadineforaboost.Donotdecoratewithpomegranateseeds(chokinghazard),butconsideradorningtheservingtraysorbarareawithpomegranatehalves.

Finally,theRougeLimonade,adrinkthatisconsiderednotquitecommeilfautinParis,butmuchlovedinthecountry.Itisreallyjustaspritzermadewithredwine,onlyinplaceofclubsodayouuselemonade.Obviously,don’tusegoodredwine—andthisiswhythiscanbeamajorhelpataparty.Idon’tsayservethesortofwinethatcoulddoubleaspaintstripper,butsomethingprettyroughcouldhaveitsedgesknockedoffwithagoodtop-upoflemonade.It’snotchic,butit’sthirst-quenching—andwonderfully,seasonally,hued.

SNOWBALL

Icecubes1partAdvocaat3partschilledlemonadeSqueezeoflimejuicetotaste

1Fillahighballglasswithice.

2AddtheAdvocaatandthentopupwiththelemonade.

3Spritzinthelimejuicetotaste.

One70clbottle(about3cups)ofAdvocaatshouldprovideforaround14Snowballs

CHRISTMASINAGLASS

4partschilledProseccoorotherfizzydrywhitewine,wellchilled1partgingerbread-flavoredsyrup

1PourtheProseccointoglasses.

2Topwiththescentedsyrup.

One750mlbottleofProseccoshouldyieldabout5glasses

POMEGRANATEBELLINI

1partchilledpomegranatepureeorconcentratedjuice¾partchilledProseccoorotherfizzydrywhitewine

1Pourthepomegranatepureeintoaglass.

2TopwiththeProsecco.

One750mlbottleofProseccoshouldyieldabout6Bellini

ROUGELIMONADEORREDLEMONADE

3partschilledredwine1–2partschilledlemonade

1Pourtheredwineintoaglassortumbler.

2Topwiththelemonadeaccordingtotaste(andqualityofwine),muchlikeyouwouldawhitewinespritzer.

One750mlbottleofredwineshouldyield5or6glasses

MARTINIOLIVES

Apartyhasgottohavebitstopickat,andwhatcouldbebetterthanthese?IgottheideaofMartiniOlives(withoutthemartinis)fromacolleagueofminefromtheNewYorkTimes,DeniseLandis,fromherlovelybook,DinnerforEight.Thesearen’tjustgreattohaveataparty,they’remightyfinetostashinjarsandgiveaspresents.

48-ozjarspimento-stuffedgreenolives(thisgives4cups)¼cupgin(orvodkaifyouprefer)1tablespoonvermouth

1teaspoonchileoil

1Openthejarsanddraintheolives,puttingthemintoabowlwiththegin,vermouth,andchileoil,andgivethemastir.

2Leavetosteepforhalfanhourorsowhileyougetreadyforyourparty.Youcanputanyyouhaveleftoverinajarwithalidforanothercoupleofdays,orindeedlonger,thoughit’sdoubtfulthatwillarise.

Makes4cupsolives

MAPLEPEPPERPECANS

Icannot,justcannotallowmyselftohaveevenoneoftheseasI’msettingthemout,orIknowtherewillbenoneleftfortheparty.They’rebesteatenstillalittlewarm(thoughbecarefulthatthey’renothotoreveryonewillhaveaburnedmouth),thoughstillverygoodcoldand,aswiththeolives,makeagoodpresent,stuffedintoajarandtiedwitharibbonorsomesuch.

Iliketheafterhitoffireyougetfromthecayennepepper;ifyouwantthesetohavealittlemoreuniversalappeal,eitherreduceto½teaspoonorsubstitutemildpaprika.

4tablespoonsbutter½cupmaplesyrup1½teaspoonstablesalt1teaspooncayennepepper3⅓cupspecanhalves

1Meltthebutterwiththesyrup,salt,andcayennepepperinapanovergentleheat.

2Addthepecansandstirtomix,thenleavethemontheheatfor2–3minutes.SpreadthepecansonaSilpatsheetorpieceofaluminumfoiltocool.

3Arrangethestickypecansinbowlstoserve.

Makes3⅓cups

PARTYPOPCORN

Thisisaveryspeedy,almostcomedicallyso,partyeatthatisalso,obligingly,ratherthriftytomake(thusallowingfortheextravaganceofthepecanshere).It’sreallyquitezingyandpackedwithflavorandmightalarmanypassingchildexpectingmoreregularsugaryfare.Ifindthatit’shugelypopular,whichiswhyImakeasubstantialbatchofit.

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1cup(unpopped)popcorn4tablespoonsbutter2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon2teaspoonsgroundcumin2teaspoonsgroundpaprika4teaspoonstablesalt4teaspoonssugar

1Puttheoilintothebiggestpanyouhavewithalidoverhighheat,addthepopcorn,andquicklyputonthelid.

2Letthepopcornpop,shakingthepaneverynowandthentokeepthekernelsmoving.Youwillhearit,butdon’tbetemptedtolook,unlessyouwanttogetshotat,andonceithasstoppedpopping—acoupleofminutesorso—takeitofftheheat.

3Meltthebutterwiththespices,inanotherpan,salt,andsugar,thenpouritoverthepopcornandputeverythingintoalargepapershoppingbag.Foldthetopovertoholdinthepopcorn.

4Shake,shake,andshakethebagagaintomixthepopcornandgetitthoroughlycoatedinthespicybutter.

5Arrangeinseveralpartybowls.

Makes12cups

COCKTAILSAUSAGES

Ifyouwanttohavesomethinghottopassaroundonatray,thencocktailsausagesarewhatyou’reafter.There’snothingfiddlytomake,nothingtogorightorwrong,andeveryonelovesthem.Thesearenotjustanycocktailsausages:Thesesameoil,honey,andsoygivethemasweet-savorystickinessthatisprettywellimpossibletoresist.

2¼lbs(75innumber)cocktailsausages½cuphoney2tablespoonssesameoil2tablespoonssoysauce

1Preheattheovento425°F.

2Separatethesausagesiftheyarelinkedandarrangetheminalarge,shallowroastingpan.

3Whisktogetherthehoney,oil,andsoysauceandpouroverthesausages,thenuseyourhands—oracoupleofspatulas—tomoveeverythingaroundinthepansothatallthesausagesareslicked.

4Roastfor25–30minutes;givethemashuffleabouthalfwaythroughcookingifyouhappentobeneartheoven.

Makes75cocktailsausages

HALLOUMIBITES

Thesearemessytoeat—butthenjustabouteverythingissofar—andareprobablybestaspartofatable,ratherthanasatrayboundsnack.Ifyouhavethepastaparkedsomewhere,perhapssitthisalongside.Theygoverywelltogether,andeaterscanforkupeacheasilyenough.ButIwouldn’tcounttheseoutasfingerfood,solongasyoudoleoutenoughpapernapkins.However,sincethesausagesprobablymakebabywipesaconsiderationanyway,Iwouldn’tworryunduly.

¼cupgarlicoil3tablespoonschoppedparsley2tablespoonlimejuicegoodgrindingofpepper38-ozblockshalloumicheese,drained

1Combinetheoil,parsley,limejuice,andpepperinalargeshallowdish.

2Slicethedrainedhalloumiinto¼-inch-widepieces,andthencuteachsliceinhalfagain.Don’tworryifbitssplinterasyoucut.

3Heatadryskilletanddry-frytheslicesofcheeseuntilgoldenonbothsides.Thisshouldtakeonlyaminuteorsoinahotpan.

4Putthefriedhalloumiintotheshallowdishofotheringredientsasyougo,andthenturnthehalloumiabouttocoateachpiecebeforeturningintoaservingdish.

Serves10–12aspartofsupper,moreasacanapé

FESTIVEFUSILLI

Youcanthinkofthiseitherasasoaking-upend-of-partymealforthehardcorewhomanagetostaythecourseorafestivebutunfussysupperyoucangettogetherquicklyaftersomeseasonalget-togetherorouting.Thehalloumigoeswellforeitheroccasion,butthepastaisdefinitelybigandboldenoughtobeastand-alone.Shouldyoubeluckyenoughtohaveanyleftover,knowthatthisisasuperbpost-partybreakfastforkedstraightfromacontainerinthefridge.

By“sunblush”tomatoes,Imeanthoseonesthatarehalfwaybetweenfreshanddriedandcomesoakedinseasonedoilfromspecialtyandgourmetshops;itistheirname,notmine.

4cupssunblushtomatoesinseasonedoil⅓cupvodka2teaspoonskoshersaltor1teaspoontablesalt2teaspoonssugar2lbsfusilliorothershortpastaofyourchoice1cupmascarponecheese⅔cupchoppedcurlyparsleyflakedParmesan,toserve

1Putahugepotofwaterontoboilforthepasta.

2Takeoutabout1cupofthetomatoesandchopthemfinely.Iusemymezzalunahere,asyoucanreallymulchthem.

3Putthechoppedsunblushtomatoesintoabowlwiththeothertomatoes,alongwiththevodka,salt,andsugar.Leavethemtosteepwhileyoucookthefusilli.

4Cookthepastaaccordingtothepackageinstructions,thendrainandputbackinthepanwiththemascarpone,mixingwelloverlowtomediumheat.

5Tipinthetomatomixtureandhalfthechoppedparsley,mixingwelltogether.

6Pourintoabowlandsprinkleovertheremainingparsley.ServewiththeParmesan.

Serves10–12

SEAFOODPOT

InFranceandItaly,andacrossmuchofEurope,seafoodistraditionallyeatenonChristmasEveanditisaverygoodwayofembarkingonthemeatfeastthatistofollow.Butyoudon’thavetosticktothecustom,justkeepthisinmindforaveryquick,warming,andyetelegantsupper.Afennelsaladbeforeorafterwouldbelovely,butyouneednomorethanjustsomebreadtodunkwith.AddingtheHolidayHotCake(seehere)asadessertwouldfinishtheeveningoffwithgusto,andinsuitablyfestivefashion.

1lb10ozcherrystoneorlittleneckclams1lb10ozmonkfishfillet1lb10ozsalmonfillet1lb10ozcleanedsquid2tablespoonsbutterdropofvegetableoil½cupwhitewine¼cupPedroXiménezorotherrichdarksherry2tablespoonschoppedchives,optional

1Soaktheclamsinabowlofcoldwater,leavethemforabout5minuteswhileyouslicethefish,thendiscardtheopenorcrackedclamsanddraintherest.

2Cutthefishinto½-inchslices,andalsoslicethesquidintothesamewidthrings.

3Meltthebutterandoilinalargepotorpanwithalid,thenoverhighheattossinthefishandsquidandstirthemarounduntiltheybegintogoopaque.

4Addtheclamsandwhitewine,andclamponthelid,shakingthepotovertheheat,andletitcookforabout3minutes.

5Liftthelid,avoidingthesteam,andpourinthesherry.Coveragainandleaveforanother3minutesorso,shakingaboutagaineverynowandthen.

6Servetheseafoodinthepot,sprinklingoverthechoppedchives,ifpreferred.

Serves6–8

BROCCOLIANDSTILTONSOUP

Atthistimeofyear,it’sgoodtohaveathickwarmingsoupatyourfingertipsandthisisplentyseasonalintothebargain.Thisiswhatmakesiteasy:Imakeitfromfrozenbroccoli;Iusefrozenorganicbroccoli,ifthatmakesyoufeelanybetter.Actually,there’snoreasontofeelbadonanycount.Thisisbetterwhenmadewithfrozen,aswellasmakingitmoreconvenientasanimpromptustandby.Thebroccoliisfrozenfresh,whereasthedroopingheadsatthebottomofmyfridgeinevitablyendupbrassyandbrassic.Moreover,atthistimeofyearmyfridgeistoofullasitis,andIneedthehelpofhavingsomecrucialingredientsstashedinthefreezer.

Thisisalsoahelpfulwayofturningplaincoldslicedturkeyintoawarmingmeal.

3tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil6scallions,finelychopped2¼lbsfrozenbroccoli2teaspoonsdriedthyme5cupshotvegetablestock(fromconcentrateorbouilloncube)1½cupscrumbledorchoppedStiltoncheesefreshlygroundpepper

1longredchilepepper,deseededandfinelychopped,optional

1Putthegarlicoilinalargepanovermediumheatandaddtheslicedscallions,cookingforacoupleofminutes.

2Addthefrozenbroccoliandthymeandstirontheheatforaminuteorso.

3AddthehotvegetablestockandthecrumbledStiltonandbringtoabubble,thenclampthelidonandcookfor5minutes.

4Liquidizeinablender(orfailingthat,afoodprocessor)—inbatches—thenpourbackinthepanandheatifithascooledtoomuchwhileliquidizing;addpeppertotaste.

5ScatterwithaChristmasconfettiofredchilediceoneachserving,ifyoufeel

likeit.

Makes9cups,enoughfor4asasupperor8asastarter

BUTTERNUTSQUASHWITHPECANSANDBLUECHEESE

Thishasmanystringstoitsbow:ItservesasavegetarianalternativetotheThanksgivingturkey;itgussiesupaplateofcoldleftoverturkey;itaddstherightbalanceofmellowwarmthandtangtoanyplainwintrydish;itisagoodwholemealondayswhenyoujustfeelfleshedout.

4½lbsbutternutsquash3tablespoonsoliveoil6stalksfreshthymeor½teaspoondriedthyme1cuppecans1cupcrumbledRoquefortorotherbluecheese

1Preheattheovento425°F.

2Halvethesquash,leavingtheskinon,andscoopouttheseeds,thencutinto1-inchcubes;youdon’tneedtobeprecise,justkeepthepiecesuniformlysmall.

3Putintoaroastingpanwiththeoilandstripabout4stalksofthymeoftheirleaves,sprinklingoverthebutternutsquash.Ifyoucan’tgetanyfreshthyme,sprinkleoverdried.Roastintheovenforabout30–45minutesoruntiltender.

4Onceoutoftheoven,removethesquashtoabowlandscatteroverthepecansandcrumbleoverthecheese,tossingeverythingtogethergently.

5Checktheseasoningandaddthelastcoupleofstalksofthyme,tornintosmallsprigs,todecorate.

Serves6–8

TURKEYTONNATO

Thisisaseasonalversion(andspeediertoboot)oftheItalianvitellotonnato:Insteadofpoachingvealandthenmakingmayonnaisewithtuna,Ifanoutsomeslicesofcoldturkey,leftoverfromthefeast,ontoaplateandquicklywhizupthetunamayonnaiseusingreallygoodtuna—theoneIusecomesinajarandisfromthebellyofthebeast,called“ventresca.”Eventhoughmymother’sshadewouldcursemeforbuying“fresh”mayonnaiseratherthanmakingmyown,that’swhatIdohere.Iwouldn’twantanywhitegloopoutofajar,though.

Thisisgorgeouswithawintrysaladofshreddedradicchio;thebitternessoffsetstherichnessofthepinky-buff–coloredmayonnaisedressing.Ifyou’vegottime,ahotbakedpotatoalongsideisalso,strangely,good.

1cupfreshmayonnaise,fromaspecialtyshoporgourmetstore1cupdrainedbest-qualitytuna⅓cupsourcream½teaspoonpaprika

4teaspoonslemonjuice1–1¼lbscoldslicedturkeybreast8anchovyfillets,eachcutinhalflengthwise1tablespoondrainedcapers

1Putthemayonnaise,tuna,sourcream,lemonjuice,andpaprikaintoablender,andwhiztomakeasauce.

2Arrangetheturkeyslicesonalargeplatter,andthenpouroverthetonnatosaucetocovermostoftheturkeyslices.

3Arrangetheslicedanchovyfilletsinacrisscrosspattern,orhoweverpleasesyou,andscatterthecapersaboutontopaswell.

Serves6

SPICEDPEACHES

Forme,thisisanabsoluteHolidayMustand,aswithsomanygoodthingsinmylife,comestomefrommysister-in-arms,HettiePotter.I’veusedjarredpeaches,I’veusedcannedpeaches,andithonestlydoesn’tmatterwhich,butI’mafraidyouhavetoresistthehealthierpeachescannedinfruitjuiceratherthansyrup.Ifyoucanfindonlyslices,nothalves,sobeit.Thisisabeautifulcondimenttoeatwithroastham,hotorcold,andIloveitwithcheese,too.Itmakesthekitchenfeellikeaproperholidaykitchen—andit’saveryeasypresenttowhipupforpeople,too,beautifulinold-fashionedglassjars.

214-ozcanspeachhalvesinsyrup1tablespoonricevinegarorwhitewinevinegar2shortcinnamonsticks

1½-inchpiecefreshginger,peeledandslicedthinlyintorounds½teaspooncrusheddriedchiles

½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoontablesalt¼teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns3cloves

1Emptythecansofpeachesintoasaucepanwiththeirsyrup.

2Addthevinegar,cinnamon,slicedginger,chiles,salt,wholepeppercorns,andcloves.

3Bringthepantoaboil,andletitboilforaminuteorso,thenturnofftheheatandleaveitinthepantokeepwarm.

4Servethepeacheswithahotham,lettingpeopletakeapeachhalfeachandsomeofthespicedjuice.Anyleftoverscan(andshould)bestoredinajarandtheneatencoldwithcoldham.

Servesapprox.8peoplewithahamroast

CHOCOLATEPISTACHIOFUDGE

Iamwillingtobelievethataconfectionerwouldn’tcallthisproperfudge,butittastesdivine,andyouwon’tneedasugarthermometerorhavetotestforfrighteningsoftorhardballstages.Ilikethisbestmadeslightlylessexpress,butwithnogreatereffort,bystashingitinthedeepfreeze.Itgoesreallygrainyandfudgythisway.IfI’mnothandingthisstraightroundatapartyorwithcoffeeafterdinner,Imightkeephalfinmyfreezer,andputtheotherhalfinaboxortwoforChristmaspresents.Makesuretheystaycold,though.

12ozsemisweetchocolate,chopped114-ozcancondensedmilkpinchofsalt1cupshelledpistachios2tablespoonsbutter

1Meltthechoppedchocolate,condensedmilk,butterandsaltinaheavy-bottomedpanonlowheat.

2Putthenutsintoafreezerbagandbashthemwitharollingpinuntilbrokenupintobothbigandlittlepieces.

3Addthenutstothemeltedchocolateandcondensedmilkandstirwelltomix.

4Pourthismixtureintoa9-inch-squarealuminumfoilpan,smoothingthetop.

5Letthefudgecoolandthenrefrigerateuntilset.Youcanthencutintosmallpiecesapproximately1¾by1¾inchesinsize.Cutting7x7linesinthepantogive64piecesbestachievesthis.

6Oncecut,youcankeepitinthefreezer,noneedtothaw;justeatrightaway.

Makes64piecesofrichfudge

QUICKLYSCALEDMONTBLANC

Thisisapared-down,lazyperson’sMontBlanc,thetraditionaldessertofchestnuts,chocolate,andcream.Thinkofitasgastro-geography:Crumbledchocolateisthesoil;chestnutpureethemountain;creamthesnow;thefinalscatteringofmeringue,freshsnowfall.Soundswhimsical,butwhensomethingtasteslikethisyoudon’tcareaboutanythingelse.

Icannothavetoomuchchestnutatthistimeofyear,andpleaseconsiderdoingavariantoftheNutellaPancakeshere,replacingtheNutellawithsweetenedchestnutpureeandtheFrangelicoliqueurwithrum.Youcouldsubstitutesomebrokenpiecesofmarronsglacésforthechoppedhazelnuts,butyoucouldjustaseasilyleavethemoutaltogether.

4ozsemisweetchocolate2cupsheavycream2meringuenests(approx.3inchesindiametereach),fromapacket11-lbcansweetenedchestnutpureeorspread,suchasClementFaugier

1Chopthechocolatewithamezzaluna,sharpknife,orinafoodprocessoruntilyouhaverubblyshards.Dividethechocolateamong6smallishglasses—withabout½cupcapacity.

2Lightlywhipthecream,andcrumbleandfoldthroughoneofthemeringues.

3Dollopthechestnutpureeorspread,ontopofthechocolaterubble.Thenspoonoverthecreamandmeringuemixture,crumblingalittlemoremeringueoverthetopofeachone.

Serves6

MINCEMEATPARCELSWITHBOURBONBUTTER

Thisisnotatimeofyearwhenyouwanttoforgetthesweetstuff,andthisisafabulous,fast-forwardmincepie.Youbuyacoupleofpackagesofready-rolledpuffpastry,unfurlonesheet,dotwithmincemeat,coverwiththeotherunrolledsheetandstampoutsquareswithasmallflutedcutter.Thentheygointotheoven(thoughtheycouldsitinthefridgefirst,werethattobehelpfultoyou).Ifyouhavesomeleftoverafterthey’vebeencooked,don’tworry,justreheatthemina350°Fovenforabout15minutes.

Theydospilloutlikeaccordionssometimesonbaking,buttheyjustneedtobepressedbackintoshape,whichisbotheasyandsatisfying.Oh,andthebourbonbutterisnotanoptionalextra:Itisareasonforlivinginandofitself.Allyoudoiscream1stickbutterwith1cuppackedsoftlightbrownsugarinamixer,processor,orbyhand,andgraduallybeatin2–3tablespoonsbourbon,totaste.I’vemadealot,becauseit’sverygoodtohavearoundatthistimeofyear,andnotjustonChristmascakeorpudding.It’salsoworthbearinginmindforspreadingoveranysortoffruitthatyoumightwanttoblisterunderahotbroiler.Oritmayprofitablybeeatenstraightfromaspoon.

One17.2-ozpackage(two9½x9½-inchsheets)ready-rolledpuffpastry,thawediffrozen⅓cupsuperiormincemeat1egg

1Preheattheovento425°F.Carefullyunfurlthepastrysheetsandlaythemoutflat.

2Usinga1½-inch-squarecutter(ourswasfluted),outlinelightly(don’tcutthrough)oneofthesheetswithsquarescoveringthepastryandliningthemupneatlyinagridwithnogaps.

3Putscant½teaspoonsofmincemeatintothemiddleofeachsquare.

4Beattheeggandthenwithyourfinger,outlinetheedgesofthesquareswithaneggyline.

5Coverthesheetofpastrywiththeothersheet,placingitdirectlyontop.Pressdownattheedges,andthenrundownthesidesofeachsquarewithyourfingerstoformaroughoutlineofbumpyfilledsquares.

6Usingthecutteragain,thistimecutrightthroughthepastrytomakeravioli-typeparcels.Makesuretheyaresealedattheedgesbeforeplacingtheparcelsonabakingsheetspacedslightlyapart.

7Bakefor15minutes.AsImentioned,theyarelikelytoopenoutlikeaccordions,butdon’tpanic.Onceoutoftheovenyoucansqueezethemgingerlybacktogetherwiththegoldenlidsontop.

8Letthemcoolonaracktoabearablewarmbeforeservingwiththebourbonbutter.

Makes35

HOLIDAYHOTCAKEWITHEGGNOGCREAM

Thisisaholiday-spicedversionofthosemagicpuddingcakes,whichlooklikesomesortofjokeasyoumakethem,pouringboilingwateroverbatter,butwhenthey’vebeencooked,turnouttobeadmittedlyunhandsomecakewiththicksauceunderneath.Looksarenoteverything,andtheginger-butterscotchflavorofcakeandsaucemakesthisaseductivewinner.Andthat’sevenbeforewe’vegottentotheeggnogcream.ThisisamiracletoppingthatyouwillwanttoputonChristmaspudding,hotchocolate,anycakeorpie,orinfactanythingandeverything.Iseenoearthlyreasonwhynotto.

2cupswater1cupflour1½cupslightbrownsugar1teaspoonbakingpowder2teaspoonsgroundginger2teaspoonspumpkinpiespice½cupwholemilk¼cupvegetableoil1egg6teaspoonsbutter

1Preheattheovento425°Fandplaceabakingsheetontheovenshelf.Putthewaterontoboil.

2Mixtheflour,½cupofthesugar,thebakingpowder,1teaspoonofthegroundginger,1teaspoonofthepumpkinpiespice,themilk,oil,andeggtogether.

3Putintoagreased9-inchroundbakingdishabout2¼inchesdeep.

4Inanotherbowl,mixtogethertheremainingcupofsugarwiththeremainingteaspoonseachofgroundgingerandpumpkinpiespice,andsprinkleoverthebatterinitsbakingdish.Dotthebutteroverthebatterandpourovertheboilingwater.Trustme.

5Putonthebakingsheetinthepreheatedovenfor30minutes.Letstandfor10minutesbeforeserving,andmakesureyouscoopoutthesaucebeneaththecakeinthedish.

Serves6–8

EGGNOGCREAM

1½cupsheavycream½cupAdvocaat

1PutthecreamandAdvocaatinabowl.

2Usinganelectricmixer,whipuntilthickbutstillsoft.

3Servewiththeholidayhotcake,orindeedanyfestivedessert.

Makesapprox.2cups

MARSHMALLOWCRISPYSQUARES

You’dthinkthiswasdesignedtokeepthechildrenhappy,andwhilethat’sOKwithme,adultsfinditparticularlyirresistible.Butifyoucan’tappealtothechildwithinatthistimeofyear,whencanyou?

IfIcanfindatubofediblediscoglitterinoneofmycupboards,Isprinklesomeonwhilethemarshmallowisstillsticky,butithasacertainpearly,luminescentappealasitis.

It’salsobeautifulcutintosquaresandpierced,eachpiecewithawhitebirthday-cakecandleandarrangedonastand.Alternatively,youcouldturnthisintomoreofapickabletreat,bycuttingtheslabintoteeny-tinysquaressopeoplecanpoponestraightintotheirmouth.

3tablespoonsbutter6cupsminimarshmallows6cupscrispyricecerealedibleglitterorsprinkles,optional

1Meltthebutterinalargesaucepanoverlowheat.

2Addthemarshmallowsandcookgentlyuntiltheyarecompletelymeltedandblended,stirringconstantly.

3Takeofftheheatandimmediatelyaddthecereal,mixinglightlyuntilwellcoated.

4Pressthemixtureintoagreased13x9-inchpan;youmayhavetoputonlatexglovesandpressitdownintothecorners,asitwillbeverysticky.Flattenthetopandthensprinkleovertheedibleglitterorsprinklesifsoinclined.

5Letthemarshmallowcrispysquarescoolcompletelyinthepanandthencuttheminto24squares.

Makes24squares

STEEPEDCHRISTMASFRUITS

Isupposethisisthelazyperson’sChristmaspudding,onlythatmakesitsoundlikesomesortofalso-ran,anditisinactualfactrathermoreofarewardforthetime-squeezedandexhausted.Well,wedeserveone.Ialwaysusedtosteepdriedfruitsinbrandy,thenImovedontorum,andnowI’mfirmlysettledintoaperiodwithPedroXiménez.Ifyouhaven’tevertriedthisrich,dark,raisinysherry,thenIbegofyou,doso.Andalthoughthesuggestionofdollopingdryfruitssteepedinitisalreadyashortcut,Icanofferanevenshortershortcut,whichissimplytopourthissherrystraightoversomevanillaicecreamforaninstant,perfectdessert.

MysisterHoratiaandIhaveastrictno-presentspolicyforChristmas(ourbirthdaysarebothrightafter)andgivingherajarofliqueur-steepedfruitslikethisismywayofgettingaroundtheban.

5cupsmixedluxurydriedfruits(amixtureofraisins,sultanas,currants,andcandiedcherries)

1¾cupsPedroXiménezsherry,orotherrichdarksherry,plussome

1Tipthedriedfruitintoa6-cuppreservingjar,orusemanysmallerjars.

2PourinthePedroXiménez;theliquidwillmorethancoverthefruit,andovertimethefruitwillswellwiththesherry,growingtofillthejar.

3Leavethefruitsforatleastaweek,althoughifyouweredesperateovernightwouldjustaboutdo.Ineithercase,justmakesureyoukeeptoppingupwithsherryastheliquidgetsabsorbed.

4Eatwithvanillaicecream,orhoweveryouwant.

Makes6cups

SEASONALFRUITSALAD

Thistimeofyearquitereasonablyenoughhasmeforagingaboutmydéclassédrinkscabinet.I’vealreadyfoundverygooduseformyAdvocaatandnowIcan’thelpreachingfortheTuaca.ThisisaTuscanliqueur,ultra-Christmassy,ratherlikeasweetbrandywithvanillaandorange;thinkpanettoneinliqueurform.Idon’texpecteveryonetokeepsomeathome,thoughIboughtmineeasilyenough(tooeasilysomemightsay)andtherewouldbeworsethingsthanhavingthisaroundthehousejustfordrinkingduringthefestiveseason.ButyoucanreplaceitwithamixtureofbrandyandCointreauorsomesweetstickyorangeliqueurifthat’seasier.Iwouldn’truleoutjustplainbrandy,butifyouuseit,doublethesugarwhenmakingthesyrup.

Aswiththesteepedfruitshere,theExpresspointofthisisn’tthatitcanbealldoneanddustedinfiveminutesflat—somelongersteepingisadvised—butthatitisNOEFFORTWHATSOEVER.Thisalwaysmatters,butitmattersnowmorethanever.

6satsumasorclementines1cupTuaca,oramixtureofbrandyandCointreau½cupsugar½cuppomegranateseeds

1Peelthesatsumasorclementinesandputthesegmentsintoabowl.

2PourovertheTuacaandleaveforacoupleofhoursorovernight.

3Drainthefruit,andthenputthesugarintoasmallpanwiththeTuaca.Stirtodissolvethesugar,andthenbringtoaboilanddonotstiragainatall,butletitboilfor5minutes.

4Letthesyrupcoolslightly,andthenpourbackoverthesatsumaorclementinesegments.Addthepomegranateseedsandtumbletomix.

Serves6–8

HOTTODDY

Althoughit’struethisistheseasonofgoodwill,itisalsotheseasonofcoldsandchills,andsoitisonlyfairtoendwithsomethingtotaketheedgeoffandgenerallyde-sniffleanduplift.

¼cupbourbon(orrumifyouprefer)¼cupwater1tablespoonhoney1teaspoonlemonjuicesmallparingoflemonzest1clove

1Inasmallpot,pourthebourbon,water,honey,andlemonjuiceandputontheheat.

2Pareashavingoflemonzest,studwithaclove,anddropinthepan.

3Wheneverything’swarm,pourintoaglassanddrink.

Serves1

Igetasensethateveryonebelievestheretobesomesecretpantryrulesthat,onceapplied,meanyouneverhavetogoshoppingagainandcancookanythingandeverythingwithoutamoment’sthought.Itjustisn’tso,andcouldn’tbeso.Whatallrecipeshaveincommonisthatyouhavetogoshoppingforthem,andwhethertheingredientsrequiredarereconditeoruninspiringlyeveryday,doesn’tmakeadifference.Thatisstatingtheobvious,butIfeelit’snecessary.

Ofcourse,youcankeepanawfullotonhand,andIdo.Butyouhavetomaintainabalancebetweenhavingenoughfoodtokeepyoufromhavingtogoshoppingeveryday,butnotsomuchthatyourcupboardsaresaggingwiththeweightofcansyouhardlyeverneed.Assomeonewhohasaterriblehoardinginstinct,Iknowhowuselessafullcupboardcanturnouttobe.

Forthetruthis,youdon’twantadietmadeoffoodthatcanbekeptindefinitely.Andevenifyoudid,itwouldn’tbegoodforyou.IliketoknowthatI’vegotthewherewithaltomakepastaandsauceforthechildrenwithoutashoppingexpedition;IliketoknowthatifIbuyaroastingchicken,I’vegotsomewhitebeanstomash,alongwiththegarlicortruffleoiltoturnitfromblahtobrilliant;Iliketoknowthatifsomeonedropsinunexpectedly,IcanconstructsomesortofdessertIhadnoplantocookhitherto,butanymoreandIfearIamnotfillingapantrybutbuildingabunker.

IcancertainlygiveanindicationofwhatIthink’shelpfultokeeponhand;mostoftheseingredientshavealreadymadetheirpresencefeltthroughoutthebook.Afterall,it’simpossibletohavesomanyquickandeasyrecipeswithoutagreatdealofrelianceonthepantryonaneverydaybasis.

Mostofmyshortcutsinvolveinfusedoils,withgarlic-infusedoilintoppositionandvegetableoilsuitableforawokthenextmostregularlyused,chileoilcominginthird,butstillmostdefinitelyearningaplaceonthepodium.Iamlazyenoughtobehappytobuythem,butifyouwanttomakeyourown,it’snothard.For2cupsofregularoliveoil,chopup8garlicclovesandletitallsteepfor48hoursbeforestrainingintoabottle(withafunnel,oryou’llwasteyourpreciouswork);sothat’sthegarlicoil.FortheoilIliketouseforwokorotherquickcooking,don’tuseoliveoilbutrather1¾cupssunflowerorothervegetableoil,¼cupoftoastedsesameoil,4slicedclovesofgarlic,anda2-inchpieceofslicedgingerstrainedafterthe48hours’steeping;forchileoil,use2cupsvegetableoilandchopup4hotredchiles,andletthemsit,seedsandall,intheoilbeforestrainingafterthe48hoursaswiththeotheroils.Youcanpretty

theoilbeforestrainingafterthe48hoursaswiththeotheroils.Youcanprettywellflavoranyoilasyouwish,andalthoughyoudon’t,strictlyspeaking,havetostrainoutthebits,assolongastheyareimmersedinoil,theyshouldn’tgooff;Ifinditeasiertodoitatthebeginningthanhavetothinkaboutitagain.

Ialwayskeepabarrageofbeansandotherlegumesinthehouse:ThismeansIhavethewherewithalforavegetable,astarter-salad,asouporproteinfornon-meateaters.Ithinkit’simportanttousethefreezerasanextensionofthepantry,too.AndIdon’tjustmeanasarepositoryofprepareddishesthatcanbethawed,butforasmanyvegetablesaspossible.Don’tsniff:Thevegetablesinyourdeepfreezearelikelytohavefarmorenutrientsthantheveglyinghopefullyatthebottomofyourrefrigerator.

Icouldgoon,butIdon’twanttobeprescriptiveaboutwhatyoushouldorcouldkeepinyourfridgeandonyourshelves,asjustwrittenasalist,it’slargelyunhelpful.ButtherecipesthatfollowprovidehonestguidanceastowhatIthinkcangetyououtofajamwhenyou’vegotpeopletofeedonlittleornonotice.Goodluck!

MYTHREEFAVORITEDRESSINGS

It’snothardtomakeadressingeverytimeyouwantasalad—andthere’snothingwrongwithjustaspritzoflemon,ashakeofsalt,andadrizzleoffabulousoilstraightontotheleavesinthebowl—butItendtokeepmythreemostused,mostlovedshakenupinjarsaboutthekitchen.Idon’tkeeptheminthefridgebutnodoubtthehealthandsafetypolicewouldtellmeIhaveto.

Iusethesenotjustfortheobvious,butalsoasagoodwayofspritzingupplainboiledorsteamedvegetables,andtheycanalsoserveasmarinades,thoughI’ddilutewithmoreoilratherthanapplythemstraightinthatinstance.

GOLDENHONEYMUSTARDDRESSING

Thisiswonderfulonanysalad,butparticularlygoodonbitterleavessuchasendiveorradicchio.Ifyoucan’tgetrapeseedoil,thedressingwillbelessgolden,butanyoilofyourchoicewilldo.

¼cupDijonmustard2tablespoonshoney⅓cuplemonjuice1cuprapeseedoil1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt

Putalltheingredientsintoajamjar,makesurethelid’sonfirmly,andshakelikemad.

Makes1cup

ANCHOVYREDWINEDRESSING

Again,thisisgoodonrobustbitterleaves,butactsasagloriouscontrasttothesoftsweetnessofgrilledpeppers.Ikeeppackagesofchar-grilledpeppersinthefreezer,whichIroastfromfrozenandthendouseinthis.

8anchovyfillets¼cupredwinevinegar¼cupgarlic-infusedoil¾cupoliveoil

1Putalloftheingredientsintoablender,andwhiztomakethedressing.

2Pourintoajamjarandputonthelidtostore.

Makes1cup

WASABILIMEDRESSING

Thisbeautifulgreendressingpacksarealpunch:Iloveitonwatercressandavocadosaladand,indeed,onanythingthatisservedwithsomethingfairlyplain,whenyouwelcomethebuzz.

3tablespoonslimejuice¼cuppeanutoil1tablespoonwasabipastefromatube½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoontablesalt

Putalloftheingredientsintoajamjar,andagainshaketomix,rememberingtoputthelidonfirmlyfirst.

Makes⅔cup

REDPEPPERHUMMUS

Youknowthosedayswhenyouhadnoideayouwerehavingpeoplefordinnerandthenthatphonecallcomesmidafternoon?Well,thisisthequicklyassembledfirstcoursethatcanturnaplainroastchickenoranythingelseyouthinkyoucanstretchforfourpeoplewithoutmucheffort,intoadinnerparty.Andactually,wheneveryouhavetocookwithouttimeforplanning,Ithinkaroastchickenisnearlyalwaysthemaincourseyouneed:It’smucheasiertocomeupwithfrillsforbeforeandafterandalongsidethantoconstructafancydinnerpartydishatthelastminute.

Thiscanbedollopedontocrostini(andyoucanbuybabytoastsreadymadeforthepurposeinItalianmarkets)oreatenasadipanditevenservesasaratherintriguing,gorgeouslyhuedsauceforplaingrilledmeats.

114-ozcanchickpeas112-ozjarroastedredpeppers2tablespoonscreamcheese2tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil1teaspoonlimejuice

1teaspoonpaprikasalt

1Drainthechickpeasandpeppersandputthemintoafoodprocessor.

2Addthecreamcheese,oil,limejuice,andpaprika.

3Whiztoahummus-likepuree,andthenaddsaltandperhapsmorelimejuiceaccordingtotaste.

Makes2cups

GOLDENGOATCHEESE

It’salwaysworthkeepingyourownbreadcrumbsaround(Ihavebagsoftheminthefreezer)butIamatotalconverttothewayofpanko,whichistheJapanesebreadcrumbmixyoucanbuyinpackagesandthen,onceopened,leaveinthefreezertousejustastheyare;youneverneedtothawthem.

Whatmakesthisrecipearealpantrystandbyisthatthelittlediscsoffreshgoatcheese,whichcomevacuumpacked,haveanunbelievablylonguse-bydate,soyoucankeepthemforemergenciesandbringoutsomethingreallyveryimpressivewhentheoccasiondemands.

Ifyoufrythecrumb-coatedcheeseitwillgoadeepergold,buttheovenmethodrequireslessofyou;it’syourchoice.

1egggoodgrindingoffreshpepper½cuppankobreadcrumbs41-ozroundsoffreshgoatcheese

1Preheattheovento425°F.

2Beattheegginawidebowlwiththepepper,andputthebreadcrumbsintoawideshallowdish.

3Dipthegoatcheeseinthepepperyeggandthenpressintothebreadcrumbsfirmly.Youwillneedtoturnthecheeseoverandpressontheothersidetocoatevenly;pressalittleonthesidesaswell.

4Sitthebreadedgoatcheeseonabakingsheetandcookfor10minutes,bywhichtimethecheesewillhavebecomegooeyinsidebutwillstillholditsshape.Youcanalsofrythese,inwhichcase,heatapanwithenoughoiltonearlycoverthecheesesastheyfry.Oncetheoilishot,theywillonlyneedaminuteorsooneachside.Drainonpapertowels.

Makes4

LENTILANDWALNUTSALAD

Thereisnoneedtoservethiswiththegoatcheese,butthepairingcertainlymakesforaspecialstarterwithouttoomuchado.

114-ozcanorganicPuylentils(readycooked)½cupwalnutpieces¼cupchoppedchives4teaspoonswalnutoil2teaspoonssherryvinegar½teaspoonkoshersalt

1Drainandrinsethelentilsandputtheminabowlwiththewalnutsandchives.

2Whisktogethertheoil,vinegar,andsalt,thendressthesalad,stirringwellandcheckingtheseasoning.

Serves2or4withthegoatcheese

SALADENIÇOISE

Everyoneseemstohaveaverystrongopinionastowhatshouldorshouldnotgointoasaladeniçoise,soletmetellyoufromtheoutset,Ihavenodesiretoenterthefray.IputinwhatIhaveathomefrom,broadly,theacceptedcanon,butnotnecessarilyeverything.Sincethetomatoeswegetmostlydon’thavealotofflavor,Itendtousethosetubsofslightlyembarrassinglynamed“sunblush”tomatoesandtheirintense,flavorfulacidityworkswellhere.Iamagreatbelieverinkeepingtheseonhand.

Otherwise,speedbeingoftheessence,theonlyrealdeviationhereisthatIusecroutons(somehigh-endbakedonesfromapackagewilldo)ratherthanboilsomepotatoesandthenhavetowaitforthemtocool.

Ifanyrecipedemonstrateswhatyoucanmakealmostexclusivelyfrompantryingredients,thenthismustbeit.

2eggs,preferablyorganic½cupfrozengreenbeans1cupsunblushtomatoesinseasonedoil½cupslicedpittedblackolivesinbrine8cupstorniceberglettuce

18-ozjarorcanexcellenttuna,about6ozdrainedweight4teaspoonsextravirginoliveoiljuiceof½lemon½teaspoonsugar¼teaspoonkoshersaltorpinchoftablesalt1cupcroutons4–6anchovyfillets—orindeednone,totaste½cupfreshbasilleaves

1Puttheeggsinapanfulofcoldwater,bringtoaboil,andletboilfor7minutes.Threeminutesin,addthefrozenbeans.

2Drainthebeansandeggs,andlettheeggssitinabowlunderrunningcoldwater.Putthebeansinastrainerandholdunderthetapforamomentorso.Theeggsandbeansstopcookingandthebeansgetcold.

3Tipthetomatoesandtheiroilintoabowl,addtheolives,andmixgently.

4Putthelettuceonaservingdishandthentopwiththetomato-olivemixture,savingtheirflavorsomeoilyjuicesinthebowlforthetimebeing.

5Drainthetunaandplacechunkswiththetomatoesandolives,thenstrewthesaladwiththedrainedbeans.

6Usingthetomatomixture’soilthathasbeenleftinthebowl,makethedressing:Whiskintheoliveoil,lemonjuice,sugar,andsalttomakeanemulsionandpouroverthesalad.

7Peelandquarterthealmostbutnotquitehard-boiledeggsandaddtothesaladalongwiththecroutons,theanchovyfillets,andthebasil.

Serves2forsupperorlunch

MINESTRONEINMINUTES

Thisischild’splaytomake,andIusethetermadvisedly,sinceitistheinventionofmyten-year-oldsonBruno(Brunostrone,wecallthissoupathome)andwemakeversionsofitconstantly.Useanybeansorlegumesyouwant,oramixtureisgood,too,andyoucanplaywiththepastasauceaswell.Ifyou’recomingdownwithacold(andnochildiseatingthis),Isuggestyouusethespiciest,hottestsauceyoucanfind.

WhileI’vegotyou,letmejustgiveyouaquickoutlineofanotherfastsoup,excellentforchildren’ssupperandmuchbelovedchezmoi.Wecalliteasyrisiebisi,asit’sasimplifiedversionoftheVenetianrisotto-likesoupusingriceandpeas;heregoes:Put4cupsofvegetablestockinapanwith1cupfrozenpeas,1½cupsofrisottorice,and1ozshaved,crumbled,orgratedcheese(ofanysort);letitcometoabubble,andthensimmerwithalidonfor20minutes.Attheend,IhavetoadmitthatIremovethelidandstirin24-ozjarsof100percentpeababyfood(Beech-NutTenderSweetPeastobeprecise)andthenladleitintobowlswithmorecheeseifanychildwants.

Thisisevenfaster.

114-ozcanmixedbeans(sometimessoldasmixedbeansalad)orothercannedbeans3cupshotchickenorvegetablestock1cuptomato-basedpastasauceofyourchoice4ozditaliniorothersouppasta

1Drainthebeansandputthemintoasaucepanwiththehotstockandpastasauce.

2Bringthepantoaboilandthenaddtheditalini,cookingaccordingtopackageinstructions.

3Oncethepastaistender,switchofftheheat,removethepantoacoolsurface,andletstandfor5–10minutesifyoucanbeartowait.Thepastaswellsinthesoupandeverythingjustgetsbetter.

Serves2–3

MERGUEZWITHHALLOUMIANDFLAME-ROASTEDPEPPERS

Thisisanothereasilyassembledsausagedish,butslightlylighteralltold.Notthatitwouldn’tfillupatablefulofhungryeaters,butnothingcancompetewithsauerkrautforputtinghairsonchests,andthatsortofgeneralbolstering.

Ikeeppackagesofhalloumicheeseonperpetualstandbyinmyfridge,andthepeppersIkeepinjarsinthecupboard.Butyoucouldalwaysuseapackoffrozenchar-grilledpeppersthatyouhadprepared.Indeed,ifyouslicethemthinlyenough,youcanusefreshbellpeppers.Merguezismyspicysausageofchoicehere,butchorizohasalongerfridgelifeifthat’saconsideration.Anythingyoucanbuyvacuum-packedcanonlyhelphere,too.

8merguezorspicysausages(approx12oz)18-ozblockhalloumicheese18-ozjarroastedpeppers1tablespoongarlic-infusedoil

1Preheattheovento425°F.Putthesausagesintoalow-sidedroastingpan(thismakesthecookingtimequicker).

2Slicethehalloumiinto¼-inchslicesandthenlaythemonandaroundthesausagesinthepan.

3Takethepeppersoutofthejarandalsostrewthemaroundthesausagesandcheese,cuttingthemintosmallerslicesandpiecesasyougo,thendrizzleovertheoil.

4Cookfor15–20minutes,bywhichtimethesausagesshouldhavebrownedandthecheesecoloredinplaces.

Serves4

CURRYINAHURRY

Thisissuchafavoritefallbackofmine,IwouldneverbewithoutthestaplesIneedtomakeit:coconutmilkandgreencurrypasteinthecupboard;variouspackagesofgreenvegetablesinthefreezer.Ofcourse,therearetheotherbitsandpieces,too,butthesearethemainones.ThechickenthighfilletsIbuyasandwhenIneedthem.

Ifyouwanttomakethiswithfreshvegetablesratherthanfrozen,thenupthewater(keepingtheamountofstockthesame)andindeedIwoulddoubleitto2cups.Thisiswhattocookwhenyoufindoutmidafternoonthatyou’vesomehowacquired6peoplefordinner.

2tablespoonscanolaorothervegetableoil3tablespoonsfinelychoppedscallions3–4tablespoonsgreenThaicurrypaste2¼lbschickenthighfillets,cutintostripsabout1½inchesby¾inch114-ozcancoconutmilk

1cupboilingwaterenoughchickenstockfrombouillonorconcentratetomake2cups1tablespoonfishsauce1½cupsfrozenpeas1½cupsfrozensoybeans1½cupsfrozenslenderbeans3tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantrocookedriceornoodles,toservelimewedges

1Heattheoilinalargesaucepan,onethatownsalid,anddropinthescallions.Cook,stirringforaminuteortwo,andthenaddthecurrypaste.

2Addthechickenpiecesandkeepturningoverheatfor2minutesbeforeaddingthecoconutmilk,stock(orratherwaterandchickenbouillonorconcentrate),andfishsauce,andthenthefrozenpeasandsoybeans.

3Simmerfor10minutes,thenaddthefrozenbeansandcookforanother3–5minutes.

4Servewithriceornoodles,aswished,sprinklingoverthecilantroasyoudoso.Putaplateoflimewedgesforpeopletosqueezeoverastheyeat.

Serves6

MELLOWMEATBALLS

Thisrecipeusesmanyofthesamestandbyingredientsasthechickencurry,butwhatitmakestastesverydifferent.Ibuyorganicbeefmini-meatballsfromthesupermarket,whichmakesthisextremelyeasytogettogether,andthere’dbenothingtostopyoufreezingthemandcookingthemrightfromfrozenifthathelps.Thoughinthatcase,I’djustpoptheminhotsauceandnotattempttobrownthemfirst.

Sureyoucanmakeyourownmeatballs,butsolongasyou’rehappywiththeoriginofthemeat(whichisalways,alwaysimportant),don’tbeatyourselfupaboutcuttingoutastagewhenyouknoweveryone’sgoingtobehappycomesuppertime.Likewisethepackageofdicedveg:Onceeverything’sswimminginitsmellowsauce,noone’sgoingtobeaskingquestions.

It’sjustacaseofmakinglifeeasieronyourself;frankly,nooneelseisgoingto.

3tablespoonsredcurrypaste2tablespoonsvegetableoil40organicminimeatballs(1lb5ozinweight)1teaspoongroundginger½teaspoongroundcinnamon114-flozcancoconutmilk114-ozcanchoppedtomatoes114-ozcanchickpeas,drained12ozdicedbutternutsquashandsweetpotato(inapackagefromsupermarket)2cupschickenstockfrombouilloncubesorconcentrateorfromapackage2tablespoonshoney

cookedrice,toserve½cupchoppedfreshcilantro

1Heatthecurrypasteandoilinalargewidepan,andwhenitstartssizzlingaddthemeatballs,turningthemintheredoilymixture.

2Sprinkleoverthegingerandcinnamonandfrythemeatballsforacoupleofminutes.

3Addthecoconutmilk,choppedtomatoes,anddrainedchickpeas.Stirinthedicedsquashandsweetpotatoandthenthestockandhoney.

4Bringthepantoaboil,andthensimmerfor20minutes.Servewithriceand

thendecorateeachplatewithsomechoppedcilantro.

Serves4–6

SAUSAGESWITHSAUERKRAUT

ThechoucroutegarnieIwroteaboutmanyyearsagoinHowtoEattookseveralhourstomakeandincludedmuchanointingwithgoosefat—andverygooditwas,too.Truthtotellthough,Idon’tbelievethistobeanylessgoodandImaybeassurprisedasyouaretofinditinachapteronpantryitems.Butitmakessense:Thesauerkrautispreservedinjarsorinrefrigeratedplasticbags,andthesausagesaresmokedandIkeepasupplyoftheminmydeepfreeze.Butthat’sonlybecauseIorderthemfrozen;whenIbuysmokedsausagesfromthespecialtyshoporbutcher,Iletthemlivehappilyinthefridge.

Itmayseemextravaganttouseawholebottleofwinetocookitallin,butit’stoucheslikethisthatelevatesimpleingredients.Andremember:It’sthequalityofthewinethatleavesitsnoteonthiswholedish.

Thisisvery,verygoodwithapanofplainsteamedpotatoesalongsideandthisreallyisn’tanyworkforyou.

5½cupssauerkraut,rinsedincoldwateranddrained8smokedsausages,cutintosmallerlengthsifwished(approximately2½lbs)2teaspoonsjuniperberries

3driedbayleaves1750mlbottleRieslingwine1teaspoonwhitepeppercorns

1Preheattheovento400°F.Coverthebottomofasmalltomediumroastingpanwiththedrainedsauerkraut.

2Addthesausages,juniperberries,andbayleaves.

3Pouroverthewineandsprinkleoverthepeppercorns.

4Bringthepantoaboilontopofthestove,thencoverwithaluminumfoilandcookintheovenfor30minutes.Servewithsteamedpotatoesifyouwish,anddefinitelysomeGermanbeermustard.

Serves6

CHOCOLATEPEARPUDDINGCAKE

ThisisacrossbetweenpearsbelleHeleneandEve’spudding,butthat’sanirrelevancereally.Theonlyimportantthingtorememberisthatthisiseasy,quick,andverycomfortingandseemstopleaseabsolutelyeveryone.It’snothardtomakesureyoualwayshavewhatyouneedinthehousetomakethis.Andforhotdayswhenbakedcakeandsauceseemsinappropriate,thenbearinmindthatcanned(orjarred)pearsandchocolatesauce—withorwithoutvanillaicecream—makealovelydessertontheirown.

Youcanmakethechocolatesaucehere,orbuyoneyoulike,obviously,butIhaveacompletepantrystandbyofasauceImakebyheatingtogether¾cupevaporatedmilk,½teaspooninstantespressopowder,½cupdarkcornsyrup,and3½ouncessemisweetchocolate.

Thecakeitselfdoesmakealittlebitofitsownsauce,soifyoureallydon’twanttomakesomeseparately,justservewithchocolateicecream.

Aswithanybaking,youreallydowantallingredientsatroomtemperaturebeforeyoustart.

214-ozcanspearhalvesinjuice1cupplus2tablespoonssugar¾cupplus1tablespoonflour¼cupcocoa

10tablespoons(1¼sticks)softbutterplusmoreforgreasing1teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonbakingsoda

2eggs2teaspoonsvanillaextract

1Preheattheovento400°Fandgreasean8½-inch-squareovenproofdishwithbutter.

2Drainthepearsandarrangetheminthebaseofthedish.

3Putalltheremainingingredientsinaprocessorandblitztillyouhaveabatterwithasoftdroppingconsistency.

4Spreadthebrownbatteroverthepears,andbakeintheovenfor30minutes.

5Letstandfor5or10minutesandthencutintoslabs—Icut2downand2acrosstomake9slices—andservewithchocolatesauce.

Serves6–8

NUTELLAPANCAKES

Letjoybeunconfined.ThisistheoneofthemostirresistibledessertsIthinkIhaveevermade,andIdiditbynomorethansomefruitfulscrimmagingaboutmycupboards.Ilongforitalmostconstantly,anditisnotgoodthatitissoeasytomake,notgoodatall.

Ifyoudon’truntoFrangelicoyourself—andthereisnoreasonwhyyoushould—thensimplyreplacethishazelnutstickyliqueurwithsomerum.Andincidentally,Ilovethisasmuchwhenmadewithsweetenedchestnutpuree(thoughit’ssostrong,youcouldusemuchless)inplaceoftheNutella.Inwhichcase,Idefinitelyuserum,andforgothechoppedhazelnutsaltogether,dottingeitherwithafewcrumbledmarronsglacésasaspecialtreat,orsomechocolatesprinkles.

8store-boughtcrepes1½cupsNutella6tablespoonssoftbutter⅓cupplus2tablespoonsFrangelico⅓cupchoppedhazelnuts(fromapackage)1cupheavycream

1Preheattheovento400°F.

2PuteachcrepeinfrontofyouandspreadsomeNutellaoveronehalfandthenfoldtheunspreadsideoverthespreadside.Nowaddadollopoveronequarterandfoldagain,sowhatyouhaveisafat,squidgyfan.Placeinabutteredjelly-rollpanorsimilar.Proceedwiththeremaining7crepes,overlappingthemalittleinthepanasyougo.

3Putthebutterinasmallpanwiththe⅓cupofFrangelicoandheattomeltthebutter.

4Pouroverthecrepesintheirdish,sprinkleovermostofthechoppedhazelnuts,andbakeinthehotovenfor10minutes.

5Meanwhile,whiskthecreamwiththeremaining2tablespoonsofFrangelico

untilyouhaveanaeratedsoftfloppinessandputintoabowl,sprinklingwiththelastofthechoppedhazelnuts.Thislusciouscreamisamustalongsidethesweet,buttery,heavenlycrepes.

Serves6–8

CLAFOUTIS

Atraditionalclafoutis,fromtheLimousinregionofFrance,istoutcourt,abakedcustardybatterfilledwithcherries.Thecherries,moreover,arenotstoned,whichIthinkhasverylittletocommendit,saveeaseofexecution.Myversioniseveneasier:Iusemorellocherries(theymustbesourtobeacontrasttothesweeteggybatter)outofajar,oneortwoofwhichareallattimestobefoundsomewhere(usuallytheback)ofmycupboard.

WhereasthetraditionalLimousinpuddingisbakedslowlysothatyouhaveasoft,flan-likecustard,Iblitzminebrutallysoitismorelikeacherry-studdedYorkshirepudding.I’vegiventhebarebonesformylarderstandby;butsinceIkeepquiteacrammeddrinkscabinettoo,Ioftenadd¼cupofKirschtomine,reducingtheamountofmilkto1cup.Thesweet-toothedmightliketoaddtwomoretablespoonsofsuperfinesugartocountertheboozyhit,butIdon’t.

Ifyouhaven’tgotatartetatindishhandy(thoughIusemineforsomanyrecipes,includingroastingsmallbirds,Ican’trecommendonetoohighly),usean8-inchpiedishorsolidcaketin.

2teaspoonsvegetableoil½cupflour¼cupsugar4largeeggs1¼cups2%fatmilk¼cupKirsch,optional2cupsdrainedmorellocherriesfromajar½teaspoonpowderedsugar(optional)

1Puttheoilinacoppertartetatindishoranyshallowsolidcaketinorpiedishofabout8inchesdiameterandputthedishintheoven,preheatingitto450°Fasyoudoso.

2Inalargebowl,mixtheflourandsugarandthenwhiskin,eitherbyhandorusinganelectricmixer,theeggs,onebyone,themilk,andtheKirsch,ifusing.Remembertoreducethemilkto1cupifyouusetheKirsch.

3Whentheovenbeepstoshowit’sreachedtherequiredtemperature,orhoweverelseitdeignstoletyouknow,stirthedrainedcherriesintothebatter,quicklyopentheoven,takeoutthehotdish,pourthecherriedbatterin,and

popitquicklybackintotheoven.

4Bakefor30minutes,bywhichtimethesideswillbebronzedandpuffed,risingdramaticallyawayfromtheedgesofthetin,thoughitsubsidesprettywellimmediatelyafterit’scomeoutoftheoven,sothemomentofpleasurabletriumphisfleeting.Ahwell.

5Letstandforabout10minutes(20isfine,too,anditisaddictivecold,too),thendustwithpowderedsugarjustbeforeserving,ifthefancytakesyou.

Serves6–8

VANILLAAPPLESWITHSWEETHEARTCROUTES

ThisiswhatImakewhenIwasnotexpectingtohavetomakeadessertandhavenothingaroundandnotimetobeclever.Igrabtheapplesfromthefruitbowl—I’vespecifiedGala,butreally,usewhatever’sathand—andtakesomeslicesofthechildren’splasticslicedwhitebread.Andyouknowwhat?Thisreallyworks.Everyone’sfooled,evenme.InanidealworldI’dlikeabitofthickpourablecreamwithit,butifthereisn’tany,I’mnotcomplaining.

4–6tablespoonsbutter2Galaapples2tablespoonsvanillaextract3slicesofbread,cutintoheartshapeswithacookiecuttersugar,forsprinkling

1Meltthebutterinaskillet,reservingaspoonfulforlater.

2Finelyslicetheapples(don’tbothertopeelorcore;curiouslyIgetabout22slicesoutof2apples,don’taskmehow)andaddthemtothepan,cookingforabout3minutes,thenaddthevanillaandcookforaboutanother5minutestotal,turningonce.

3Removetheapplestoaplate,thenaddtheremainingspoonfulofbuttertothepanandquicklyfrythesweetheartcroutes.

4Arrangethesweetheartcroutesontheplatewiththeapplesandsprinklewithsugar.Servewithcreamifyou’vegotsome.

Serves4

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

AsIdrawthisbooktoanend,IconcludethatIamextraordinarilyfortunateinowingsomanypeoplethanks.Thedrawbackisonlythatalonglistrequiresanunwontedandunwarrantedterseness.Thechina,linen,cutleryandgeneralembellishmentinthephotosthatprecedethiscomefrommyowncupboardsandanalmostdangerouseBayhabit,butontopofthatIamgratefultothefollowing:AbsoluteFlowers;Baileys;Cabbages&Roses;CeramicaBlue;TheClothShop;TheConranShop;TheCross;TheDiningRoomShop;Divertimenti;GelateriaValerie;Habitat;Heals;LeCreuset;Liberty;OKA;PetershamNurseries;Something…;Summerill&Bishop;ThomasGoode.

Icouldn’thaveproducedtheserecipeswithoutthefood,deliveredinalmostcomicalamounts,byAllen’s,JamesKnight,MichanicouBrothersandPanzer’s.

FionaGolfar,long-standingfriendandüberstylist,providedmostofherfurnitureandalsoRoseMurray,mySecond-HandRose,whointurnthrewherselfintothebook,andmychaoticlife,withcharmandhardwork,awinningcombination.

IamgratefultoElinorKlivansandherpublishersChronicleBooks,SanFrancisco,forpermissiontoreprintherrecipeforTotallyChocolateChocolateChipCookiesfromherbookBigFatCookies.

Asever,Iamindebted,heartswellinglyso,toHettiePotterandZoeWales,mylife-supportsystem,whobroughtthisbabyintotheworldwithme,asdidCazHildebrand,whoseinstinct,wit,brilliance,unfailingeyeandgenerosityareconstantlyinvaluabletome.IamgratefultoFrancescaandLisaGrillo,AnzelleWassermanandKateBullfortheirsupport;withouttheirwork,Icouldnotdomywork.Ifeelextraordinarilyblessedinmypublishers,andwantparticularlytothankPoppyHampson,GailRebuck,AlisonSamuel,WillSchwalbeandLeslieWells(andtheirbackroomsupportteams,includingJanBowmerandMaryGibson).Iamaware,too,ofmygoodfortuneincomingacrossLisParsons;herphotographsprovidejustthepicturesIdreamtofformyrecipes.

Itwouldbewrong,too,formetofailtoacknowledgemystepdaughterPhoebe,andmychildrenMimiandBrunowithoutwhomthiswouldbepointless.

ToEdVictor,myagentandfriend,inordinateamountsoflove:thisisfor

ToEdVictor,myagentandfriend,inordinateamountsoflove:thisisforyou.

ForCharles:thankyou,thankyou,thankyou.

INDEX

Thepaginationofthiselectroniceditiondoesnotmatchtheeditionfromwhichitwascreated.Tolocateaspecificentry,pleaseusethesearchfeatureofyoure-bookreader.

Amarettosyllabub308Anchovyredwinedressing354Anglo-Asianlambsalad6applesGreenappleMartini197Pinkginapplesauce212–13Tartefineauxpommes217Vanillaappleswithsweetheartcroutes378

avocadosAvocadobruschetta90Avocadocrayfishcocktail58CrabandavocadosaladwithJapanesedressing33Crabandavocadowraps202–3Quickcrostiniwithavocadoandgreenpeahummus201Roquamole243

Bananabutterscotchmuffins262BananasmoothieseeGoget’emsmoothiebassseeseabassbeansTomatoandblackbeansalsa233Whitebeanmash140seealsoborlottibeans;cannellinibeefFlash-friedsteakwithwhitebeanmash140High-speedhamburgerwithfastfries145Juicybeefskewerswithhorseradishdip205Mellowmeatballs369Minimeatloaves270Quickchili236

Quickchili236Steakslicewithlemonandthyme40

Blackpastawithredmullet294blackberriesBlackberriesinmuscatjelly225Blackberrycrisp52Forgottenpudding136

blueberriesBlueberrysyrupforpancakes93Choppedfruitsalad89Nectarineandblueberrygalette156

borlottibeansTunaandbeans284

bourbonbutter343Brandied-baconychicken36breadDoughnutFrenchtoast188Lazyloaf131

Breakfastbars94Breakfastbruschetta90broccoliBroccoliandStiltonsoup330Mustard-capersauceforbroccoli13

browniesFlourlesschocolatebrownieswithhotchocolatesauce51

bruschettaAvocadobruschetta90Tomatobruschetta90

Budinodicioccolato311Buñuelos248burgerHigh-speedhamburgerwithfastfries145

Butterflycakes187Buttermilkroastchicken274butternutsquashButternutsquashandsweetpotatosoup168Butternutsquashwithpecansandbluecheese333Mellowmeatballs369

Mellowmeatballs369butterscotchBananabutterscotchmuffins262Butterscotchfruitfondue27

cakesButterflycakes187Chocolatepearpuddingcake373Icecreamcake222Pineappleupside-downcake82

calamariseeQuickcalamaricanapésCocktailsausages322Halloumibites325Quickcrostiniwithavocadoandgreenpeahummus201

cannelliniSmokedcodandcannellini4

Caramelcroissantpudding23Caribbeancreams49Cheddarcheeserisotto176cevicheseeChoppedcevichecheeseBroccoliandStiltonsoup330Cheddarcheeserisotto176Cheesefondue70Cheeseomelette104CroqueMonsieurbake106Grilledcheeseandslaw180–1Macandcheese179Quesadillas240Roquamole243seealsogoat’scheeseCheesecake,Cherry81

Chef’ssalad62Cherrycheesecake81chickenBrandied-baconychicken36Buttermilkroastchicken274ChickenCaesarcornets257Chicken,mushroom,andbaconpie175ChickenSchnitzelwithbaconandwhitewine143CoqauRiesling119

CoqauRiesling119Curryinahurry366Maplechicken’n’ribs110Mexicanchickensaladwithblackbeansalsa232–3Polloallacacciatora296Rib-stickingstir-fry171seealsopoussins

Chickenliversalad68Chickpeaswitharugulaandsherry155chileChileoil353Chileomelette104Quickchili236

Chileanseabass239chocolateBudinodicioccolato311Chocolatecroissants98Chocolatemacaroons312Chocolatemintcookies54Chocolatepeanutbutterfudgesundae160Chocolatepearpuddingcake373Chocolatepistachiofudge338Flourlesschocolatebrownieswithhotchocolatesauce51Glitzychocolatepuddings221Instantchocolatemousse159Lunchboxtreats266Mexicanhotchocolate251Nutellapancakes374QuicklyscaledMontBlanc340RockyRoadcrunchbars258Totallychocolatechocolatechipcookies190Whitechocolatemintmousse218

ChoppedcevicheandMexicola239chorizosausagesQuickchili236Scallopsandchorizo153

chowdersChowderwithAsianflavors164

ChowderwithAsianflavors164Sweetcornchowderwithtoastedtortillas235

Christmasinaglass318Clafoutis377clamsSeafoodpot329

clementinesSeasonalfruitsalad350

Cloudylemonadeforasunnyday278Cocktailsausages322cod,blackChoppedceviche239

cod,smokedSmokedcodandcannellini4

coleslawNewOrleanscoleslaw277seealsoSandwichslawcookiesseealsoMacaroons,chocolateChocolatemintcookies54

Totallychocolatechocolatechipcookies190CoqauRiesling119cornishhenRoastcornishhenandsweetpotatoes20

CrabandavocadosaladwithJapanesedressing33Crabandavocadowraps202–3crepesCrepesSuzette75Nutellapancakes374

Crispyduck112Croissants,Chocolate98CroqueMonsieurbake106Crostini,Quick,withavocadoandgreenpeahummus201Crumble,Jumbleberry183Crunchysaladwithhotandsourdressing265cucumberSweetandsourcucumbersalad122

curriesCurryinahurry366Redshrimpandmangocurry15

DelConte,Anna299dessertsAmarettosyllabub308Blackberriesinmuscatjelly225Blackberrycrisp52Budinodicioccolato311Butterscotchfruitfondue27Caramelcroissantpudding23Caribbeancreams49Cherrycheesecake81Chocolatepeanutbutterfudgesundae160CrepesSuzette75Etonmess46Flan244Flourlesschocolatebrownieswithhotchocolatesauce51Forgottenpudding136Ginger-passionfruittrifle226Glitzychocolatepuddings221Holidayhotcakewitheggnogcream344Icecreamcake222Instantchocolatemousse159Irishcreamtiramisu135Jumbleberrycrumble183Mangosplit78Margaritaicecream247Marsala-honeypearswithGorgonzola304Nectarineandblueberrygalette156Nochurnpomegranateicecream132Nutellapancakes374Peachesinmuscat307QuicklyscaledMontBlanc340Rhubarbandcustardgelato24Roly-polypudding184Tartefineauxpommes217Whitechocolatemintmousse218

DoughnutFrenchtoast188dressingsAnchovyredwinedressing354

Anchovyredwinedressing354Goldenhoneymustarddressing354Hotandsourdressing(forsalads)265Wasabilimedressing355seealsomayonnaisesdrinksChristmasinaglass318Cloudylemonadeforasunnyday278Gingerpom197Goget’emsmoothie86GreenappleMartini197Hottoddy351Mexicola239PomegranateBellini318Rougelimonade318Snowball316

duckCrispyduck112Duckbreastswithpomegranateandmint210

Eggnogcream344eggsCheeseomelette104Chileomelette104CroqueMonsieurbake106DoughnutFrenchtoast188Flan244Forgottenpudding136Greeneggsandham103Greenomelette104Hamomelette104Mexicanscrambledeggs230Oeufsencocotte65OrangeFrenchtoast101Spanishomelette273

endiveseeescaroleescarolePappardellewithescarole288

Etonmess46

Festivefusilli326fishBlackpastawithredmullet294Goujonsofsolewithdillmayonnaise73Gravlaxsashimi125Choppedceviche239Mirin-glazedsalmon149Potatocakeswithsmokedsalmon198Quickcalamariwithgarlicmayonnaise16Sakéseabassandwiltedgreens34–5Salmonescalopeswithwatercress,sugarsnaps,andavocado9Seafoodpot329SearedsalmonwithSingaporenoodles43Smokedcodandcannellini4Smokedtroutpâté61Swedishsalmon120–1Tunaandbeans284Tunaandcrabandavocadowraps202–3Tunasteakswithblackbeans150

Flan244Flash-friedsteakwithwhitebeanmash140Flourlesschocolatebrownieswithhotchocolatesauce51fonduesButterscotchfruitfondue27Cheesefondue70

Forgottenpudding136Frittata104fruitButterscotchfruitfondue27Choppedfruitsalad89Jumbleberrycrumble183seealsospecificfruitsSeasonalfruitsalad350

fruit,driedSteepedChristmasfruits348

fudgeChocolatepeanutbutterfudgesundae160Chocolatepistachiofudge338

Chocolatepistachiofudge338Fusilli,Festive326

Garlicmayonnaise16Garlicoil353Ginger-passionfruittrifle226Gingerpom197Glitzychocolatepuddings221Goget’emsmoothie86goatcheeseGoldengoatcheese358–9Slow-roasttomatoes,goatcheese,andmintsalad127

Goldengoatcheese358–9Goldenhoneymustarddressing354Goujonsofsolewithdillmayonnaise73Gravlaxsashimi125GreenappleMartini197Greeneggsandham103Greenomelette104Gremolata,crazy,withMozzarella287Grilledcheeseandslaw180–1

haddock,smokedseecod,smokedhalloumiHalloumibites325Merguezwithhalloumiandflame-roastedpeppers365

hamGreeneggsandham103Hamomelette104Hamsteakswithparsley146Red-leaf,fig,andSerranohamsalad206

High-speedhamburgerwithfastfries145HokeyPokey281Holidayhotcakewitheggnogcream344honeyGoldenhoneymustarddressing354

honeycombHokeyPokey281andsee221,222

Hottoddy351hummusAvocadoandgreenpeahummus201Redpepperhummus356

infusedoilseeunderChileandGarlicandWokicecreamIcecreamcake222Margaritaicecream247No-churnpomegranateicecream132

Instantchocolatemousse159Irishcreamtiramisu135Italiansausagesinhottomatosaucewithpolenta302

Juicybeefskewerswithhorseradishdip205Jumbleberrycrumble183

Klivans,Elinor:BigFatCookies190

lambAnglo-Asianlambsalad6Lambribchopswithchileandblackolives299Lamb,olive,andcaramelizedoniontagine114Lambshankswithbeans117Rapidragu172

Landis,Denise:DinnerforEight319Layeredsaladwithroastquail44Lazyloaf131leeksRoastpencilleeks213

Lemonade278Cloudylemonadeforasunnyday278Rougelimonade318

Lentilandwalnutsalad359Linguinewithlemon,garlic,andthymemushrooms291Liverwithbaconandcharredonions301Lunchboxtreats266

Macandcheese179

Macandcheese179Macaroons,Chocolate312mangoButterscotchfruitfondue27Choppedfruitsalad89Mangosplit78Redshrimpandmangocurry15

Maplechicken’n’ribs110Maplepepperpecans319Margaritaicecream247Marsala-honeypearswithGorgonzola304Marshmallowcrispysquares347Martiniolives319mayonnaiseDillmayonnaise73Garlicmayonnaise16

Mellowmeatballs369Merguezwithhalloumiandflame-roastedpeppers365meringuesEtonmess46QuicklyscaledMontBlanc340

Mexicanchickensaladwithblackbeansalsa232–3MexicanchoppedcevicheseeChoppedcevicheMexicanhotchocolate251Mexicanscrambledeggs230Mexicola239Mincemeatparcelswithbourbonbutter343Minestroneinminutes363Minimeatloaves270monkfishChoppedceviche239Seafoodpot329

MontBlanc340Moonblushtomatoes126–7Mortadellapastasalad269Mouclade67moussesInstantchocolatemousse159Whitechocolatemintmousse218

Mozzarellawithcrazygremolata287muffinsBananabutterscotchmuffins262Pearandgingermuffins97

mullet,redBlackpastawithredmullet294

mushroomsLinguinewithlemon,garlic,andthymemushrooms291Potatoandmushroomgratin39

musselsMouclade67

mustardGoldenhoneymustarddressing354Mustard-capersauce(forbroccoli)13Mustardporkchops11

Naanpizza19Nectarineandblueberrygalette156NewOrleanscoleslaw277No-churnpomegranateicecream132noodlesNoodlesoupforneedypeople167Sesamepeanutnoodles261Singaporenoodles43

Nutellapancakes374

Oeufsencocotte65oilseeinfusedoilOlives,Martini319omelettesseeundereggsOrangeFrenchtoast101

pancakesHomemadeinstantpancakemix92–3seealsocrepes

Pappardellewithescarole288Partypopcorn321passionfruitForgottenpudding136Ginger-passionfruittrifle226

Ginger-passionfruittrifle226pastaBlackpastawithredmullet294Festivefusilli326Linguinewithlemon,garlic,andthymemushrooms291Mortadellapastasalad269Pappardellewithescarole288Spaghettiniwithshrimpandchile293

pâtéSmokedtroutpâté61

Peaandpestosoup254peachesPeachesinmuscat307Spicedpeaches337

pearsChocolatepearpuddingcake373Marsala-honeypearswithGorgonzola304Pearandgingermuffins97

pecannutsMaplepepperpecans319

peppersMerguezwithhalloumiandflame-roastedpeppers365Redpepperhummus356

pestoPeaandpestosoup254Greeneggsandham103

Pineappleupside-downcake82pizzaseeNaanpizzaPolloallacacciatora296pomegranatesGingerpom197No-churnpomegranateicecream132PomegranateBellini318

Popcorn,Party321porkMaplechicken’n’ribs110Mustardporkchops11

potatoesFastfries145

Potatoandmushroomgratin39Potatocakeswithsmokedsalmon198Spanishomelette273Warmpotatosalad122–3

potatoes,sweetButternutsquashandsweetpotatosoup168

quailLayeredsaladwithroastquail44

Quesadillas240Quickcalamariwithgarlicmayonnaise16Quickchili236QuicklyscaledMontBlanc340

Rapidragu172Red-leaf,fig,andSerranohamsalad206Redpepperhummus356Redshrimpandmangocurry15Rhubarbandcustardgelato24Rib-stickingstir-fry171Risotto,Cheddarcheese176Roastcornishhenandsweetpotatoes20RockyRoadcrunchbars258Roly-polypudding184Roquamole243Rougelimonade318

Sakeseabassandwiltedgreens34–5saladsAnglo-Asianlambsalad6Chef’ssalad62Chickenliversalad68CrabandavocadosaladwithJapanesedressing33Crunchysaladwithhotandsourdressing265Layeredsaladwithroastquail44Lentilandwalnutsalad359Mexicanchickensaladwithtomatoandblackbeansalsa232–3Mortadellapastasalad269

Mortadellapastasalad269Red-leaf,fig,andSerranohamsalad206SaladeNiçoise360Sesamepeanutnoodles261Slow-roasttomatoes,goatcheese,andmintsalad127Sweetandsourcucumbersalad122Warmpotatosalad122–3

salmonGravlaxsashimi125Mirin-glazedsalmon149Salmonescalopeswithwatercress,sugarsnaps,andavocado9Seafoodpot329SearedsalmonwithSingaporenoodles43Swedishsalmon120–1

salmon,smokedPotatocakeswithsmokedsalmon198

salsaTomatoandblackbeansalsa233

Sandwichslaw180–1satsumasSeasonalfruitsalad350

saucesHotchocolatesauce51MaryamZairasauce30Mustard-capersauce(forbroccoli)13Pinkginapplesauce212–13

sauerkrautSausageswithsauerkraut370

sausagemeatMinimeatloaves270

sausagesCocktailsausages322Italiansausagesinhottomatosaucewithpolenta302Merguezwithhalloumiandflame-roastedpeppers365Sausageswithsauerkraut370

Scallopsandchorizo153Scallops-on-the-shell209seabass

Sakeseabassandwiltedgreens34–5Seafoodpot329Seasonalfruitsalad350Sesamepeanutnoodles261shrimpRedshrimpandmangocurry15ShrimpwithMaryamZairasauce30Spaghettiniwithshrimpandchile293

Smokedcodandcannellini4Smokedtroutpâté61smoothieGoget’emsmoothie86

Snowball316sole,lemonGoujonsofsolewithdillmayonnaise73

soupsBroccoliandStiltonsoup330Butternutsquashandsweetpotatosoup168Minestroneinminutes363Noodlesoupforneedypeople167Peaandpestosoup254seealsochowders

Spaghettiniwithshrimpandchile293Spanishomelette273Spicedpeaches337squidQuickcalamariwithgarlicmayonnaise16Seafoodpot329

steakFlash-friedsteakwithwhitebeanmash140Steakslicewithlemonandthyme40

Stir-fry,Rib-sticking171SteepedChristmasfruits348strawberriesButterscotchfruitfondue27Choppedfruitsalad89Etonmess46Forgottenpudding136

Forgottenpudding136Swedishsalmon120–1Sweetandsourcucumbersalad122Sweetcornchowderwithtoastedtortillas235Syllabub,Amaretto308

Tartefineauxpommes217Tiramisu,Irishcream135tomatoesFestivefusilli326Moonblushtomatoes126–7SaladeNiçoise360Slow-roasttomatoes,goatcheese,andmintsalad127Tomatoandblackbeansalsa233Tomatobruschetta90

trifleGingerpassionfruittrifle226

trout,smokedSmokedtroutpâté61

tunaTunaandbeans284Tunaandcrabandavocadowraps202–3Tunasteakswithblackbeans150Turkeytonnato334

turkeyRib-stickingstir-fry171Turkeyfilletswithanchovy,gherkin,anddill12Turkeytonnato334

Vanillaappleswithsweetheartcroutes378venisonGriddledvenisonwithpinkginapplesauceandroastpencilleeks212–13

Warmpotatosalad122–3Wasabilimedressing355Whitechocolatemintmousse218Wiltedgreens35Wokoil353

AbouttheAuthor

NigellaLawsonistheauthorofthebestsellingbooksHowtoEat,HowtoBeaDomesticGoddess,NigellaBites,ForeverSummer,andFeast—which,alongwithseveralsuccessfulTVseries,havemadeherahouseholdnamearoundtheworld.SheisacontributortotheNewYorkTimesandlivesinLondonwithherfamily.

AlsobyNigellaLawson

HOWTOEATTHEPLEASURESANDPRINCIPLESOFGOODFOOD

HOWTOBEADOMESTICGODDESSBAKINGANDTHEARTOFCOMFORTCOOKING

NIGELLABITESFROMFAMILYMEALSTOELEGANTDINNERS—EASY,DELECTABLE

RECIPESFORANYOCCASION

FOREVERSUMMER

FEASTFOODTHATCELEBRATESLIFE

Copyright

Copyright©2007NigellaLawsonDesignandArtDirection:CazHildebrandCookeryAssistant:HettiePotterEditorialAssistant:ZoeWalesLayout/Design:JulieMartinIllustrations:WestOneArts&MarkPatonIndex:VickiRobinson

Allrightsreserved.ExceptaspermittedundertheU.S.CopyrightActof1976,nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,distributed,ortransmittedinanyformorbyanymeans,orstoredinadatabaseorretrievalsystem,withoutthepriorwrittenpermissionofthepublisher.Forinformation,addressHyperion,1500Broadway,NewYork,NewYork10036.

eBookEditionISBN:978-1-4013-0602-1

FirsteBookEdition

OriginalhardcovereditionprintedintheUnitedStatesofAmerica.

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