WELCOME Nau mai, haere mai

Tāwharanui Regional Park is located on the eastern end of the Tokatū Peninsula. The 588 ha. park boasts some of the Auckland region’s most beautiful white sand beaches, as well as rolling pastures, shingled bays, native coastal forest and regenerating wetlands. Tāwharanui is New Zealand’s first integrated public open sanctuary where farming, recreation and the conservation of native species combine behind a predator proof fence.

This brief history tells some of the stories about the people who have lived at Tāwharanui and of the dramatic events that have taken place in this now quiet place. Visitors can see physical reminders such as archaeological sites, historic buildings and trees that tell of this remarkable history.

This carved pou (post) represents Manuhiri, the ancestor from whom the local tribal group Ngāti Manuhuri take their name, and their kaitiakitanga, or guardianship over Tāwharanui. The carvings on the base of the pou illustrate the treasures of the natural world and the special place that whales hold in local tradition. The pou was carved by Vern Rosieur, Ringi Brown and Harry Wikaire in 2005.

TäwharanuiOur History

No. 05

3745.PG.06/08

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What To See And Do• Stopattheinterpretationareajustinsidethesanctuarygateforparkandopensanctuary

information,andvisitthecarvedpou(post)bythewesternedgeofthelagoon.

• Takeoneofthesevensignpostedwalksonthepark.TheybeginatAnchorBayandtheLagoon,andrangefromeasystrollstothetwohourNorth/SouthCoastTrack.AfavouriteformanypeopleistheEcologyTrail(2hours)signpostedfromAnchorBay.

• Swim,surforsnorkelatAnchorBay,ordiveintheMarineProtectedareaonthenorthcoast.FishingisnotallowedherebutisallowedonthesouthcoastandatJonesBayneartheparkentrance.

• Stayawhileandexperiencethepark’shistoricalandnaturalvalues.Bookacampsiteinthecampground,orbookastayinthecottagethatisavailableforrental(phone093662000).

• Pleasedonotremoveordisturbanyarchaeologicalremainsorshipwrecks.Theyprovideanimportantrecordofourhistoryandareprotectedbylaw.

How To Get ThereTāwharanuiisa90kmor80minutedrivefromcentralAuckland.TakeSH1northtoWarkworth.FollowthesignstoMatakana.1kmpastMatakanaturnrightattheŌmahaturnoffanddrive11kmalongTakatūRoadtothepark.(Note:thelast6kmoftherouteisawindinggravelroad).

Waikōkōwai (Anchor Bay) 1990, G. Murdoch Figure1

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Early Ma-ori occupation

ThestrategiclocationofTāwharanui,anditsrichnaturalresources,madeitanattractiveplacetolivefromtheearliestperiodofhumansettlementintheregion.ThenameTāwhara–nuiliterallymeans‘theabundantediblebractsofthekiekievine’(Freycinetiabaueriana).Thisplacenameisusedhereinasymbolicsense,reflectingtherichresourcesofthearea,asexpressedinthefollowingwhakataukīorproverbialsaying,

Hewha-ta-wharakiuta,Hekikota-murekitai.

‘Thefloweringbractsofthekiekieontheland;thefleshofthesnapperinthesea.’

Thissayingdescribesthequalitiesofanideallivingenvironmentwhichcontainedtheabundantresourcesofboththeland

andseaincloseproximity.Thecoastlineprovidedawiderangeofseafoodsfrombothsandyandrockyshorehabitats.Areasofsandyandnorthfacingsoilswereidealforthecultivationofkūmara,withtheoncelargewetlandsprovidinganimportantsourceoffoodandthatchingmaterials.Food,timberandmedicinalplantswereplentifulonthepeninsula.

EvidenceofthelongperiodofMāorisettlementcanstillbeseeninthemanyphysicalmarksontheland.Theseincludefivepā(fortifications)thatdefendedtheland,hillsideterracesforhouses,foodstoragepits,shellmiddens(rubbishdumpsfromfoodprocessingandcookingwaste)andgrovesofkarakatrees.Sacredplacesassociatedwithritualandburialarealsofoundatseveralplacesinthepark.Theplacenamesandstoriesthathavecomedowntousfromthepastbringthisphysicallandscapetolife.ThesestoriesconfirmthatTāwharanuihasbeensettledbypeopleforaverylongtime.

TheparkislocatedontheTokatūPeninsulawhichtakesitsnamefromthedistinctive‘upstandingrock’locatedatTokatūPoint(seeFigure3).Tokatūwasanimportantlandmarkontheeasterncoastline,anavigationalmarker,andasacredplaceofritual.Thetraditionsoftheareatellusofancestralcanoesvoyagingalongthiscoastlinefromtheearliestperiodofhumansettlementintheregion.

Early ancestors ThetraditionsofthetribalgroupsoftheeasterncoastofTeTaiTokerau(Northland)tellusthattheareawasoccupiedfromancienttimes.InfactlocaltraditionstatesthatTeIkaroaāMaui,‘Maui’slongfish’(theNorthIsland)washauledfromtheseatothenortheastofTāwharanui.Afterthefishingupoftheland,theareawasoccupiedbyancientpeoplesknownasNgātiKui,TūtūmaiaoandTūrehu(WiripoPoteneinG.Graham,1927).

LocaltraditionalsotellsusthatthefamousancestorandvoyagerToitehuatahivisitedtheareaapproximatelyeightcenturiesagoandnamedmanyofitsprominentfeaturesincludingTeHauturuōToi(LittleBarrierIsland).ThelargeislandadjacenttoTāwharanui(KawauIsland)wasnamedTeKawautūmaroōToi,‘thesentinelcormorantofToi’,andtheHaurakiGulfwasnamedTeMoananuiōToi,‘thegreatseaofToi’.InlocaltraditionToitehuatahiiscreditedwithlivingforsometimeatMaraeroaonHauturu.ThedescendantsofToiwereknownas‘TiniōToi’or‘themultitudesofToi’,andsomeofthemsettledintheareawiththemoreancientpeoplewhowerealreadythere.Theyinturnwereabsorbedbylatermigrationsassociatedwithseveralofthefamousancestralwaka(canoes)whichvoyagedtoAotearoafromthePacific.

ngā waka tūpuna – ancestral voyaging canoesAtthetimeoffirstEuropeancontactthehapu(subtribalgroups)inoccupationoftheTāwharanuiareawereNgātiManuhiriandNgātiRaupō.Bothgroupsclaimedtheirmanawhenua,ortraditionalrighttotheland,onthebasisoftheirdescentfromtheTeKawerauancestorMakiandhissonsManuhiriandMaeaeariki(alsoknownasMaraeāriki)(NativeLandCourtKaipara,MB3,1873).LikeallofthesubtribalgroupsoccupyingtheTakapuna–TeĀraicoastlinetheyalsohadoldertiestoseveralofthefamousancestralvoyagingcanoeswhicharrivedinthedistrictinthe14thcentury.TheywereassociatedwithNgātiTaiwhodescendedfromTaihauaandTaikehuoftheTainuicanoe,aswellaswithNgātiTeWharau

Tokatū – ‘the upstanding rock’ at Tokatū Point, 1973, ARC Figure3

‘Tāwhara’, the flowering bracts of the kiekie vine, ARC Lindsay Charman photograph Figure2

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whoweredescendantsofHeioftheĀrawacanoe.TheancestralcanoewithwhichtheywerehowevermostcloselyassociatedwasMoekākara,alsoknownasWakatūwhenua.Thiscanoe,commandedbyTāhūhūnuiōrangi,landedatWakatūwhenuathesmallbaywhichisnowthesiteoftheGoatIslandMarineReserve.ThedescendantsofthecrewofthiscanoebecameknownasNgaiTāhūhū.TheyoccupiedTāwharanuifromthe14thtotheearly17thcentury.

Huruhuruwaea – ‘the parting of the hairs’Intheearly1600salargegroupofNgātiAwapeoplemigratedintotheAucklandregionfromKāwhia.LedbyMakiandhisyoungerbrotherMataahu,thesepeopleconqueredTāmakiandsettledatRarotonga(Mt.Smart).OverthenextgenerationtheyspreadnorthwardintotheMahurangiareaandsouthKaipara.FromanincidentinvolvingMakiduringtheconquestofsouthKaiparathetribalname‘TeKawerau’arose.Asa

resultthisnamereplacedNgātiAwaasthegeneralnameforthedescendantsofMaki,hisbrotherMataahuandtheirsonsManuhiri,Ngāwhetū,MaeaearikiandTāwhiakiterangi.IntimetheytookcontroloftheeasterncoastlineandoffshoreislandsfromTakapunatoTeĀraiōTāhūhū(TeĀraiPoint)throughdefeatingthelocalNgāohoandNgaiTāhūhūpeopleandintermarryingwiththem.DuringthisconquestMakiandhisfollowerswerevictoriousinabattlereferredtoas‘Huruhuruwaea’or‘thepartingofthehairs’.ThisfighttookplaceonthebeachatWaimarunearPukenihinihiPoint(seeFigure4)whichislocatedonthenorthwesternedgeofthepark.

AftertheconquestofTāwharanuiandthesurroundingarea,Makidividedthelandupamonghissonsandtheirfollowers.ThelandthatnowmakesupTāwharanuiRegionalPark,“belongedtoMaeaeariki.Makigaveittohim.Manuhirialsohadarighttoit.”(TeHemaraTauhia,NLCKaiparaMB3,1873:42).Manuhiri,theeldestsonof

An aerial view looking west to Waimaru and Pukenihinihi Point, ARC, C. Roberts photograph Figure4

Maki,andhisfollowersinitiallylivedontheeasternshoresoftheKaiparaHarbourandlaterspreadtotheMatakana–Mangawhaicoastline.TheirdescendantsbecameknownasNgātiManuhiri,‘thetribeofManuhiri’,oneofwhoseancestralhomeswasTāwharanui.NgātiManuhiristillliveinthesurroundingdistricttodayandmaintainTeKiriMaraeatŌmaha(Leigh).

ngāti raupō ThepermanentoccupantsoftheTāwharanuiareafromthetimeoftheconquestuntilthelate19thcenturywerethedescendantsofMaeaearikiwhooccupiedthecoastlinebetweenWhāngaparaoaandŌmaha.FromhissonsTeUtuandTeRupengacamethehapuknownasNgātiRaupoandNgātiKā.TheyoccupiedthecoastlinebetweenMatakanaandWhāngateau,althoughNgātiRaupōfocusedtheirsettlementatTāwharanui.TheoriginofthenameNgātiRaupōisnotknown,althoughitisthoughtthatthisnamederivedfromtheraupō(Typhaorientalis)wetland

thatoncecoveredthelowlyingflatlandintheparkpriortothelate19thcentury(pers.comthelateHamueraParaone).

NgātiRaupōwerethedescendantsofMaeaearikiwhohadtakenpartintheconquestofthelandwithhisfatherandbrothers.Throughintermarriagewiththeearlierpeoplestheyalsohaddirectancestrallinkswiththetribalgroupswhohadformerlyoccupiedtheland.TheymaintainedclosetieswiththeirneighbouringNgātiManuhirirelativeswhooftenoccupiedTāwharanui,andalsowiththeirNgātiRongorelativeswholivedimmediatelytothesouth.AllofthesecloselyrelatedhapuhadmadepeacesettlementsandmarriageswiththetribalgroupknownasNgātiWhātuawhoseinfluencewasgrowingintheKaiparadistrictatthistime.LikewisetheyhadconcludedpeacemakingallianceswithNgaiTāhūhūandNgātiManaia(NgātiWai)thetwolargeiwiwhooccupiedthecoastlinenorthofPaepaeōTū(BreamTail).AsaresultNgātiRaupōandtheirrelativeswereabletooccupyTāwharanuiinpeaceforseveralgenerations.

Punga waka (canoe anchors) from Jones Bay, Tāwharanui. J. R. Diamond collection Figure5

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conflict with MarutūahuInearly18thcenturythesubtribalgroupswhooccupiedtheeasterncoastlinenorthofTakapunawerecomingunderincreasingpressurefromthetribesofthepowerfulMarutūahuconfederationwhooccupiedtheHaurakiGulf.WhilebeingrelatedthroughTainuiandĀrawadescent,conflictdevelopedbetweenthesetwotribalgroupingsovercontrolofthebountifulfishingresourcesoftheeasterncoastlinenorthofWhāngaparaoa.FightingbetweenTeKawerauandtheMarutūahutribesbeganinthe1720sandcontinuedoffandonthroughoutthe18thcentury.Victoriesweregainedbybothparties,althoughbythelate1700stheHaurakitribeswerepredominant.

TheHaurakitribeswerenotdirectlyseekingcontroloflandbutwishedtogaincontroloverthefamedtaurangamangoorsharkfishinggroundsnorthofWhāngaparaoa.Atthesegrounds,whichincludedKawauBayoffTāwharanui,thousandsofschoolsharks,knownlocallyasmuri,werecaughtanddriedinlatesummer.TheywerethentakenhometotheHaurakidistrictasavaluablewinterfoodsource.DuringthisperiodNgātiRaupōandtheirrelativesremainedinoccupationoftheirland,althoughthedominanceoftheHaurakitribeswasshownbytheirannualoccupationofthenearbyMatakanaRivermouthareaduringthesharkfishingseason.

Bythelate1700stheTeKawerauconfederationcouldnolongertoleratethisongoingintrusionontheirancestraldomain,althoughinterestinglythechancetoattacktheHaurakitribescamefromwithinthelatterconfederationitself.InternaldisputeswithintheUriōPoupeopleinthesouthwesternHaurakiGulfarealedtoarequestfromTokawhero,anUriōPouchiefofKaweraudescent,toattackhisownpeopletoavengethedeathofhisfatherNgātara.Asaresultalargetaua(warparty)wasassembledatMahurangitoattacktheMarutūahutribes.ThistauawasledbyTeMaeaea,aNgātiManuhirichieftainwholivedbetweenPakiriandTāwharanui,andhisrelativePōnuiwholivedatMangatāwhiri(JonesBay,Tāwharanui).Hisimpressivefortifiedsettlement,(seeFigure7)locatedabovetheparkentrance,isstillknownas‘Ōpōnui’–‘thedwellingplaceofPōnui’.

TheTeKawerauwarpartydefeatedHaurakiforcesatMotukarakanearHowickandatKawakawaBay,andreturnedhomevictorious.DuringthelatterbattletheTeUrikaraka(NgātiPaoa)leaderTeMahiawaskilled.ThedeathofthisleadingHaurakichieftaincouldnotgounavenged.AsaresultHaurakiforcesattackedTeKawerau,withbattlesbeingfoughtasfarwestasHōteoandasfarnorthasWaihē(theMahurangiRiver).Warfarecontinuedbetweenthetwotribalconfederationsuntilthe1790swhenamajorpeacemakingmeeting,knownas‘Mihirau’,washeldatPūhoi.Taonga(heirlooms)wereexchangedandTeNgare,ayoungNgātiManuhiriwomanfromTāwharanui,wasgiftedtoaNgātiPaoachief.TeNgarehoweverrefusedtoconsenttothisarrangementandthefragilepeacewasbroken.

Toki (stone adze) from Jones Bay, Tāwharanui, J.R. Diamond collection Figure6

Figure7

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coveredalloftheflatsbetweentheparkentranceandtheMainBeach–AnchorBayarea.Knownas‘TeWhauwhauRangaunu’,thiswetlandwasusedbyNgātiManuhiritocatcheels(AramaKarakaTeHaututu,NLCKaipara,MB3,1873:37).Thewetlandwouldalsohaveprovidedfoodslikeraupōpollen,andwildfowlsuchaspūkekoandducks.Itsmarginswouldalsohavebeenidealforgrowingtaro(Colocasiaesculenta),andthemainwetlandwouldhavealsoprovidedvastquantitiesofbuildingandweavingmaterialsincluding:raupō,kuta(Scirpuslacustris)andharakekeorflax(Phormiumtenax).

Tāwharanuialsoprovidedavaluedsourceofkōkōwaiorredochrewhichwasmixedwithnaturaloils,andusedformanydecorativeandritualpurposes.ThekōkōwaioutcropbehindAnchorBay(seeFigure8)gavetheplaceitstraditionalMaoriname,Waikōkōwai–‘thebayoftheredochresource’.Whenharvestingtheredochreandtheotherresourcesofthearea,NgātiManuhiristayedatthesmallheadlandpāknownasPāpahi,atAnchorBay(Ibid.).

NgātiManuhirialsooccupiedPukeruhiruhiPāatPukenihinihiPointatthenorthwesternendofMainBeachonaseasonalbasisasexplainedbyPātaraPaniin1873,

“MyfathershadapāonthislandatPukeruhiruhi.ManyoftheMa-tuasdiedonthisland…Taimarousedtoliveonit,helivedinthepa-andhadhousesinit.MyfatherTeTokausedtogoonitconstantlytogetsharks–Thepa-wasstillstandinginhistimeandheusedtoliveinitwhilefishing.Theearthworksofthepa-arestilltobeseen.”(Pa-taraPani,NLCKaipara,MB31873:39-40)

Thecoastalforestwhichoncecoveredtheparkwouldhaveprovidedahugesourceoffood,medicineandbuildingmaterials.Awiderangeofberrieswereharvestedtoeat,aswerethe‘tāwhara’orediblebractsofthekiekievinewhichgivetheparkitsname.Smallertreespecieswerenotonlyusedforfoodbutformanyotherspecializeduses.Forexamplethelightweighttimberofthewhau(Enteleaarborescens)was

InamajorbattleatTeNgaere(ChristianBay)justsouthofTāwharanui,localchieftainsTeMaeaeaandTeAwhiwerekilledbyaHaurakiforceledbyPōkaithesonofTeMahia.Pōnui,theNgātiRaupōleader,wasbrieflyforcedintoexilewithhisNgātiRongorelativesinthesoutheasternKaiparaarea.SoonafterhereturnedtohishomeatTāwharanuiwherehelivedouthislifebesidehisfellowrangatiraTeRuaāTeWhenuaandMarokōpaitū.ThedirectdescendantsofthesechiefsweretooccupytheWaikauriBay-Tāwharanuiareauntilthemid1870s,andtoretainownershipofthewesternpartofwhatisnowTāwharanuiRegionalParkuntil1912.

tHE traditional cyclE of rEsourcE gatHEringAsnotedearlier,thestrategiclocationandrichresourcesofboththelandandseamadeTāwharanuianidealplacetoliveinpre-Europeantimes.NgātiRaupōandNgātiManuhirihadsettlementsatTāwharanui,whilemovingovertheirwiderancestrallandbetweenMatakanaandTeĀraiinaseasonalcycleoffishing,hunting,gatheringandharvesting.ArchaeologicalandtraditionalevidenceindicatesthatMāorisettlementwasfocusedaroundWaikauriBayjustsouthofthepark,andaroundtheMangatāwhiriStreamvalley(JonesBay).Associatedoutlyingseasonaloccupationsites,usedforbothgardeningandfishingactivities,werealsolocatedonthenortherncoastlinebetweenPukenihinihiPointandWaikōkōwai(AnchorBay).Inaddition,smallsitesassociatedwithfishingandshellfishgatheringwerelocatedaroundthecoastlineoftheTāwharanuiPeninsulaitself.

InthelowerMangatāwhiriStreamcatchmentthereareatleastsevenclustersofpitsandterracesindicatingintensivesettlementandthestorageoflargeamountsofkūmara.ThetwomostextensivesettlementsitesaretobefoundonthehighestpointsaboveeitherendofJonesBay.OnthetopoftheridgeabovetheoutletofthelagoonisanextensivedefendedsettlementknownasPā-hī–

‘theloftyfortifiedsettlement’.Thissite(R09/242)extendsfornearlyhalfakilometrealongtheridge.Itsearthworkshavebecomeindistinctasaresultoffarmingpracticessincethe1870s,howeveritincludesatleast24terracesand15pits,andwasdefendedatitseasternedgebytwolargeditchesandbanksthatare60metresinlength.

Anotherlargedefendedsettlementislocatedonthetopoftheridgeabovetheparkentrance.Thesite(R09/244),knownasŌpōnui,isrelativelywellpreservedandcontainsatleast25terracesand31pits(seeFigure7).Itwasdefendedbyadoubleditchandbankonitswesternboundary.ItissignificantthattheNgātiRaupōleaderRukaTaiahostatedintheNativeLandCourtthathewishedthisareainlandofWaikauritobe‘inalienable’(NLCKaiparaMB3,1873:29).Thesetwoextensivesettlementswerelocatedonidealvantagepointswithexpansiveviewsoverthesurroundingdistrict.Theyappeartohavebeenrelativelywelldefended,althoughthesmaller,moreheavilyfortified,headlandpāatWaikauriBayandPukenihinihiwereprobablyusedasrefugesintimesofcrisis.

ŌpōnuiandPāhīweresituatedwellabovethemosquito-riddenwetlands.Beinglocatedonhighridgetopstheyalsoprovidedwarm,welldrainedareasinwhichtostorekūmara.Thisimportantcropwouldhavebeencultivatedontheadjoiningnorthfacingslopes,aswellasonthewarmsandyflatsbehindMainBeach.ThislatterareaisshownonanearlyMāoriLandPlan(ML1874)asa‘nativeclearing’(seeFigure15).Itwasknowntohavebeenplantedinpotatoesuntilatleast1873(PātaraPani,NLCKaipara,MB3,1873:39).Thekūmaratuberswerestoredinrua(rectangularpits)withthatchedorearthcoveredroofs.Astaplefoodsourcethatwouldalsohavebeenharvestedfromgardenclearingswasaruhe,thestarchyrootofthebrackenfern(Pteridiumesculentum).

Anothermajorsourceofnaturalresourceswasthelargewetlandwhichformerly Kōkōwai (red ochre) deposit at Waikōkōwai (Anchor Bay), 1991, G. Murdoch Figure8

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usedtomakefloatsforfishingnets,andtheleavesofthengaio(Myoporumlaetum-whichisstillfoundgrowingnaturallyonthenorthcoastatNgaioBay),wereusedasaninsectrepellant.Theleavesofthenīkaupalm(Rhopalostylissapida)andthestemsofthetoetoe(Cortaderiasplendens)wereusedasthatchingmaterialintheconstructionofhouses.Karaka(Corynocarpuslaevigatus)treesarefoundbymanyoldoccupationsitesinthepark.Thefruitofthekaraka(seeFigure9)wasgatheredwhenripeinMarch.Itwassoakedtoremovepoisonoustoxinsandthenpoundedtoproduceatypeofflourusedasawinterfoodsource.

OverthecenturiestheMaorioccupantsofTāwharanuialsoharvestedtherichresourcesofthecoastlineandthesurroundingsea,asindicatedbythearchaeologicalevidencetobefoundinthenumerousmiddensfoundthroughoutthepark.OraltraditionsuggeststhatNgātiRaupō,NgātiManuhiri,andrelatedhapu,cametotheareatofishuntilwellintothetwentiethcentury.Fishbones,inparticulartāmureorsnapperarefoundinalmosteverylargemiddenatTāwharanui,

andmiddenanalysistodatehasidentifiedeighteenshellfishspecies.Itisofinterestthattheseincludebothlocalrockyshorespecieslikepaua(Haliotisiris)andsandyshorespeciesliketuatua(Phaphiessubtriangulata),aswellasestuarinespecieslikecockle(tūangi,Austrovenusstutchburyi)whichappeartohavebeengatheredfromthenearbyWhāngateauHarbour.LocaltraditionnotesthatwhalesoccasionallystrandedonMainBeach,providingaconsiderableamountoffood,andalsobonewhichcouldbeusedtomanufactureawiderangeoftools,weaponsandornaments.TheimportanceofwhalestoNgātiManuhiriisreflectedintheirinclusiononthebaseofthecarvedpoulocatedatthelagoon(seecoverfoldoutimage).WhaleshavecontinuedtostrandatTāwharanuionarelativelyregularbasisuntilrecenttimes.

contact WitH EuropEans and its iMpactsInDecember1770CaptainJamesCooksailedthroughthenorthernHaurakiGulf.AtthistimeheroughlychartedthecoastlineinthevicinityofTāwharanuiandnamednearbyPointRodneyafterViceAdmiralSirGeorgeRodney.Europeansailingvessels,mainlywhalingships,begantoappearonthecoastfromtheearly1800s,althoughthereiscurrentlynoknownrecordofthemvisitingtheMatakanaarea.In1820themissionaryReverendSamuelMarsdenandseveralothermissionariescampedonKawauIslandoppositeTāwharanui.InthefollowingyearCaptainJ.DownieoftheRoyalNavySupplyShipHMSCoromandelsailednorthupthecoastlineoutsideofKawauIslandwithaloadofsparsboundforSydney.Hesketched‘TeKawhow’(KawauIsland)andnotedthe‘reportedpassageanddeepwater’

offthehighpeninsulathatherecordedas‘TaWharranui’(seeFigure11).

Bythe1820stheMāorioccupantsofTāwharanuiwouldhaveseenEuropeanshippingtravelingupanddownthecoast,andhadcertainlycomeunderindirectEuropeaninfluences.Theseincludedtheintroductionofnewfoodsourcessuchaspigsandpotatoes,aswellasEuropeansteeltoolsandutensils.Sadly,liketheotheriwioftheregiontheyhadalmostcertainlybeenaffectedbytheintroductionofintroducedepidemicdisease,andinthemid1820stheyweretosufferthedisastrousconsequencesoftheintroductionofEuropeanweapons.

ngā pakanga ā te pū – the musket wars SomeofthesubtribalgroupsoftheMahurangi-MatakanaareahadtakenpartinanattackonNgāpuhiattheBayofIslands

From - A Sketch of the River Thames in New Zealand, J. Downie, 1821, ARC Figure11

Karaka tree with ripe berries, above Bluebell Point, T. Lovegrove Figure9

Shell midden exposure (R09/251) near Waimaru, Main Beach, 2004, ARC Figure10

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inthe1790sandhadbeeninvolvedinthekillingoftheNgāpuhichiefTeKoriwhaiintheMahurangiareain1820.AsaresulttheywereattackedbyaNgāpuhiforceatTeKohuroa(MathesonsBay)in1822.Inthisbattletheyfacedmusketsforthefirsttimeandsufferedheavyloses.Thenin1825alargecombinedNgāpuhiforcefoughtamajorbattlenearKaiwakaagainstaNgātiWhātuaforcewhichincludedNgātiRongoandNgātiManuhiriwarriors.Majorlossesweresufferedbybothsides,howeverthegreaternumbersofmusketsheldbyNgāpuhiprevailed.

Followingthisbattlethesurvivingmembersofthelocalhapufledbothnorthandsouthtoseekshelter.TeHemaraTauhiaandsomeoftheNgātiRongopeopleofMahurangisoughtrefugeintheBayofIslandswiththeNgāpuhichiefPōmareIIwhowasalsoofNgātiRongodescent.OthersfledtotheWaikatowheretheytookrefugewithNgātiKorokīatMaungatautarinearCambridge.NgātiManuhiriandNgātiRaupōtookrefugewithrelativeslivingnorthofWhāngarei,includingwiththeTeParawhauchiefsParihoroandTauwhituwhowerealsoofNgātiManuhiridescent.

TheMaoriinhabitantsofTāwharanuiweretoremaininexileuntilthemid1830’satwhichtimeRukaTaiahoandhispeoplereturnedtoWaikauriandMangatāwhiri(JonesBay,Tāwharanui).Nowonlyanextendedfamilygroup,theycontinuedtooccupytheirancestraldomaininmuchthesamewayastheirancestorshaddone.NgātiManuhirinowlivedpermanentlyintheŌmaha-Pakiriarea,butcontinuedtomakeseasonalvisitstothenortherncoastlineofTāwharanuitofishandcultivatetheland.BothgroupshadreturnedfromexiletoaverydifferentworldwhichnowhadapermanentEuropeanpresence.

NgātiPaoafromthesouthwesternHaurakiGulfhadmadeanearlypeacewithNgāpuhiandhadbeguntoventurenorthintothethenuninhabitedcoastalareanorthoftheWaitematāHarbour.From1832theyhelpedEuropeantimbertraderstocutkauritimberfromthecatchmentsoftheMatakana,MahurangiandPūhoiRivers.Bythelate1830sNgātiManuhiri,NgātiRaupōandrelatedhapuhadreturnedtotheirancestralhomesintheMatakanaarea.TheywerehoweverunawarethatEuropeantimbertradershadbeguntopurchaselargepartsoftheirancestrallandfromtheHaurakitribes.

the loss of the landIn1839WilliamWebster,anAmericantimbertraderworkingoutofCoromandelHarbour,purchasedthe‘PointRodney’blockfromNgātiPaoa.Thisblock,estimatedtobe4046ha.(10,000acres)inextent,includedtheentirecoastalareabetween‘PointRodney’and‘PointTāwharanui’.In1839NgātiPaoaalsosoldanestimated2023ha.(5000acres)toThomasMillonandJamesSkelton(seeFigure13).Thisblockofland,knownas‘TePau’,extendedoutalongtheTokatūPeninsulafromMatakanatothewesternendofTeNgaere(LagoonBay)nearTāwharanui.

These‘pre-Treaty’privatelandpurchaseswereultimatelyinvestigatedbytheCrownandtheacreagesgrantedweresubstantiallyreduced.Nevertheless,bymid1841NgātiManuhiriandNgātiRaupōhadlostasignificantpartoftheirancestraldomainwithouttheirknowledgeorconsent.TheirsituationwastobecomemoreperilousasaresultoftheCrownpurchaseoftheŌmahaandMahurangiblockfrom‘theunitedtribesofThames’on13April1841.ThispurchaserelatedtoallofthecoastallandbetweenTakapunaandTeĀraiPoint

extendinginlandtothemainridge,includingTāwharanui.IteffectivelyleftNgātiRaupōandNgātiManuhirilandless.

TheCrownsooncametorecognizethecomplexityofancestralinterestswithinthispurchaseareaandspentthenexttwodecadessortingthemessout.Bytheearly1840stheCrownhadrecognizedtheinterestsofresidentgroupslikeNgātiManuhiriandNgātiRaupō,buthadnotmovedtoformallycreatereservesforthem.In1845Parihoro,aTeParawhauchieffromWhāngarei,assertedhisrightsheldintheMatakanaareaasadescendantofManuhiri.Heundertookthemuru(ritualplunder)ofMillon’ssawingstationontheTokatūpeninsulaandthreatenedothersettlersinthearea.TheCrownretaliatedbyconfiscatingsomeofhislandatwhatisnowMarsdenPoint,althoughtheyultimatelypurchasedParihoroandTauwhitu’sinterestsintheMatakanaareawithapaymentof£150.Inthistransactionon1November1853,theTokatūPeninsulaeastofMillon’sclaimwas“reservedforthenatives’(seeFigure13).ThismeantthatthecoastalareabetweentheŌmahaSpitandLagoonBaywasfinallyrecognizedasremaininginMāoricustomaryownership.

Matatūahu – ‘the headland place of sacred ritual’, G. Murdoch Figure12

Parihoro’s Reserve Figure13

14 15

a time of great changeInthe1850sNgātiRaupō,nowledbyPorotakathesonofTaiaho,remainedinoccupationofwhatisnowTāwharanuiRegionalPark,althoughtheirmainsettlementwasatWaikauriBaywhichofferedamuchbetterallweatherlandingthanMangatāwhiri(JonesBay).NgātiManuhiri,nowundertheleadershipofTeKiri,continuedtovisitTāwharanuitofishandtocultivatelandonthenortherncoastline.NgātiRaupōhadaccesstoEuropeanmaterialgoodsviathenewlyestablishedvillageofMatakana,themilltownofWarkworth,andthecopperminingsettlementonKawauIsland.ThehapuhadnowadoptedChristianity,havingbeenvisitedfromtheearly1840sbytheReverendJamesBullerandothermissionariesfromtheKaiparaWesleyanMissionCircuit.OnhisbaptismPorotakaadoptedtheChristiannameRuka(Luke),andbecameknownasRukaTaiaho.HissontooktheChristiannameWiremuPātene(WilliamBarton)afteroneoftheorganizersoftheWesleyanMission.

Inthe1860soverfortyEuropeanfamilieshadsettledonlandintheMatakanaareaandathrivingeconomybasedaroundtimbermilling,boatbuildingandfarminghaddeveloped.TheMäoriresidentsofTāwharanuiwereinvolvedintheseactivities,althoughtheycontinuedtolivealargelysubsistencelifestyleontheirancestralland.From1862theyobservedthepurchaseofnearbyKawauIslandbyGovernorGeorgeGreyandhisintroductionofexoticplantandanimalspecieswithgreatinterest.Thisactivityreflectedthegreatchangethatwasthentakingplaceintheirancestralhome.Inrelationtothisan‘oldKaweraulady’Mererirecalled,

“Whenourpeoplefirstsawtheforeignbirds(emu)broughtbyGovernorGreytoTeKawauwecalleditthemoa,andmycousinTeHemaramadeaspeechtothosebirdsandcried,andweallcried,forwerememberedthoseoldproverbsandlamentsconcerningthepast,which

likenedthedisappearanceofourdeadparentsandancestorstotheextinctionofthatbirdtheMoa.”(JournalofthePolynesianSociety,Vol.28,1919:108)

In1864theMāoriresidentsofTāwharanuiweredisturbedtolearnthatalargenumberofMāoriprisoners,capturedayearearlierbyBritishtroopsattheBattleofRangiriri,hadbeenimprisonedatKawauIslandonoldshiphulks.

TauwhitutheTeParawhauandNgātiManuhirileader,thenlivingatWaikauriandMangatāwhiri,wasdisillusionedwiththeCrownandhadanolddebtofgratitudetoWaikato.HeandhisinfantsonhadbeensparedfromdeathbytheWaikatoparamountchief,andlaterfirstMaoriKing,PōtatauTeWherowheroinabattlefoughtnearWhāngareiin1827.TauwhituknewthattheKawauprisonershadbeenfightinginsupportofKingTāwhiaothesonofTeWherowhero.WiththehelpofNgātiManuhiriheorganizedwhaleboatsandferriedtheprisonerstothemainland.SomeofthemcameashoreonthesoutherncoastlineoftheTāwharanuiPeninsula.TheirlandingplacenearBluebellPointbecameknownas‘MāoriBay’(seeFigure14).AftercampingbrieflyatWaikauri,theescapeestraveledoverlandtoWhāngateauandbuiltafortifiedpositiononthetopofMt.Tamahunga.TheycreatedgreatconcernamonglocalEuropeansettlers,althoughtheywereultimatelygivenfreepassagebytheGovernmenttoreturntotheWaikato.

In1866anapplicationwasmadebytheNgātiManuhirichiefTeKiritoestablishtitletotheMāorireservelandsetasideinthevicinityofTāwharanuiin1853.Thelandwassurveyed1870/71intotwolargeblocks.TheyincludedtheTāwharanuiBlock(thehighTāwharanuipeninsulaitself)andtheMangatāwhiriBlockwhichextendedfromWaikauriBaytothenorthernendoftheŌmahaSpit.ThelandwasinvestigatedbytheNativeLandCourtatTeAwaroa(Helensville)1873/75,withclaimsbeingmadebythe

residentrangatiraRukaTaiaho,aswellasbyotherslivingasfarawayasWaitākereandtheKaipara.

AllclaimedrightstothelandonthebasisoftheirTeKawerauancestry,andspecificallythroughdescentfromMakiandhissonsManuhiriandMaeaeariki(Maraeāriki).InrelationtotheMangatāwhiriBlockJudgeH.H.MonroissuedthefollowingJudgementafterhearingextensiveevidence-“ItwasshownthatthislandbelongedtoMakiinformertimes.Hisdescendantshadoccupieditforgenerationsandbuiltpāsandhousesonitandcultivatedit.ThewholeofthepersonsprovedtobedescendedfromMakiareentitledtoclaim.”(NLCKaipara,MB3,1873:46)ItwasrecognizedthataprimaryrighttothelandlaywithNgātiRaupōandNgātiManuhiriwhoactuallyoccupiedtheland.Asaresultthenarrow214acre(86ha.)portionoftheMangatāwhiriblockbetweenPukenihinihiPointandWaikauriBaywassurveyedofffortheiruseastheMangatāwhiriNo.3Block(seeFigure15).

TitlewasawardedtoRukaTaiaho,hissonWiremuPāteneandTeKiriParaonethegrandsonoftherecentlydeceasedNgātiManuhirichiefofthesamename.

TheabsenteeownersoftheMangatāwhiriNo.1andNo.2andTāwharanuiblocksindicatedtheirwillingnesstosellthelandwhichwassoldintwotransactions1873/75toJohnAtkinson‘gentleman’ofDunedin.NgātiRaupōremainedlivingatWaikauriandMangatāwhiri(JonesBay)untilthedeathoftheirleaderRukaTaiahoinApril1875.AtthispointtheyleasedtheMangatāwhiriNo.3blocktoEmanuelChristian(whohadpurchasedpartofMangatāwhiriNo.2fromAtkinsonandsettledatChristianBay).TheythenmovedtolivewithNgātiManuhiriatPakiri.Atkinsonwasalandspeculatorandhequicklysoldtheremaininglandtoanotherwealthylandspeculator,Dunedinpolitician,JohnCargill.WithinamonthCargillhadsoldthepropertytoAntonioMartinforthesumof£1400sterling.

Māori Bay where the Kawau prisoners landed on 12 September 1864, G. Murdoch Figure14

16 17

the Martin Era 1877-1898AntonioMartin(1825-1882)thefirstEuropeanownertodeveloptheTāwharanuipropertyhadaninterestingpast.HewasPortugueseandhadarrivedinNewZealandunderthenameAntonioMathiasdeVarga.Adescendantrecalledthathehadbeen,

“shanghaiedfromtheFarilhoesislands(offthecoastofPortugal)bythecrewofanAmericanwhaler–theBarqueNoble,whichafterayearintheAntarctic,wasdamagedoffGreatBarrierIsland,thenranagroundintheThamesestuary…inJune1846.”(H.A.Martin1987:1)

OnarrivalinAucklanddeVargaimmediatelyadoptedthenameAntonioMartin,marriedAgnesFleming(1830-1907),andgainedworkinhisoriginaltradeasacooper(barrelmaker).MartindidwellinAucklandandby

1860hadasmallcuttertheAgnesbuiltatMatakanatoshiptimberandfirewoodtothelucrativeAucklandmarket.By1870Antonioownedasmallfleetofcoastaltradingvessels,ahotel,andafinehomeinHobsonSt.Auckland.HeandAgnesnowhadaverylargefamilyconsistingoffourgirlsandtensons.Antoniopurchasedthe4156acre(1681ha.)Tāwharanuiasasourceofkauritimber,firewoodandshingle.

Inlate1879MartinbuiltasmallshantybehindShingleBay(JonesBay),andbeganmillingtheTāwharanuiandMangatāwhiriblocksusingcontractorsandhiseldestsons.MuchoftheforesthadbeenmodifiedaftercenturiesofMaorioccupation,althoughalargeamountofkauriremainedintheMangatāwhiriStreamcatchmentandonthecentralpartofthepeninsula.Mānukascubcoveredalmostalloftheremaininglandprovidingahugesourceoffirewood.Kauri

waspitsawnonthepropertyandsledgeloadsofsawntimberandfirewoodwerehauledtoShingleBaytobeloadedintoMartin’scutterswhichstoodcloseoffshoreingoodweather.LogswerehauledtoShingleBayusingbullocks,thefirstofwhichweresaidtohaveswumashorefromthe29toncutterPhoenixwhichwaswreckedonPhoenixReefonthenortherncoastlineon4June1879.ThelargeanchorfromthePhoenixwaslaterrecoveredfromnearFlatRock,givingthelocalitythenameAnchorBay.

Aslandwascleared,pasturewassownandsheepandcattlewereintroducedtotheproperty.AntonioMartinenlargedtheoriginalshantyintoatwostoriedcottageandemployedafellowPortugueseJohnDaSilvaasfarmmanager.AfterAntonio’sdeathin1882,DaSilvaremainedasfarmmanagerunderthedirectionofAgnesMartinandhersonFrancisthenaged15.By1896thetimberhadlargelybeenmilledoutandwoolfromaflockof900sheepwasprovidingthemainincomefromthefarm.Thesheepwerehandshornandthebaledwooltaken

outfromShingleBaybypunttowaitingcutters.Bythelate1890sFrancisMartin,likehisbrothers,hadleftTāwharanuitoworkinAucklandasadraughtsman,andAgneshadretiredtoTakapuna.

Antonio and Agnes Martin c. 1875, H. Harvey and NZ Genealogist Figure16

The Martin cottage c.1880, Fred Marshall album Figure17

Māori land plan (ML 1874), showing Tāwharanui and Mangatāwhiri No.3 blocks, 1870, ARC Figure15

18 19

the Jones and young families settle at tāwharanuiOn23September1898the1681ha.MartinfarmwasleasedtoDavidJonesandtheDaSilvafamilymovedtoanotherMartinproperty,KaikouraIslandoffthecoastofGreatBarrierIsland.AtthesametimeEmanuelChristiangaveuphisleaseoftheMāoriownedMangatāwhiriNo.3BlockwhichwastransferredtoJamesYoung.HewasafarmworkerfromKawauIslandwhohadbefriendedNgātiManuhiriwhooftencalledatKawauIslandintheirtradingvessels.Young,knowntolocalMaorias‘HēmiIanga’,andhiswifeAlice(neeWyatt)movedtoTāwharanuiinlate1898withtheirthreechildren.Atfirsttheylivedinanīkauwhare(seeFigure18),andtheninasmallweatherboardcottagebuiltontheflatsimmediatelyinlandofthepresentdayparkentrance.

JamesYounginitiallystruggledtomakealivingbycuttingfirewoodfromthepropertyforsaletoAucklandmerchants,andby

sellingkahikateamilledfromthewetlandbehindwhatisnowtheparkworkshopanddepot.Thetimberandfirewoodweretakentothebeachbyhorseandsledgeandloadedbyhandontoscowswhichgroundedonthebeachatlowtide.Asthelandwasclearedpasturewasdevelopedforasmalldairyherd.ThemilkfromthecowswasusedtoproducehomemadebutterwhichwassoldtoshopsinAuckland.AliceYoungalsokept300hens,sellingtheeggsontheAucklandmarketaswellastolocalbushworkers.Thefamilykeptalargevegetablegardenandorchard,andfoundmuchoftheirfoodfromtheenvironmentaroundthem.Theycaughtlargenumbersoffish,whichweresmokedinthewheelhouseofthescowWaipüwreckednearJonesBayin1904,andsenttoAucklandwiththebutterandeggs.JamesYoungwasalsowellknowninthedistrictforhishoneymadefromnectarcollectedfromwildbees,andforhishome-brewedbeerwhichgainedextrapotencyfromtheinclusionofflaxroots.

AfterleasingtheMangatāwhiriNo.3blockfor14years,JamesYoungwasfinallyable

topurchaseitfromitsMāoriownersforonepoundanacrein1912.In1914,usingtimbermilledfromtheproperty,JamesYoungbuiltanewlargerhousebesidetheoriginalcottagewiththehelpofTomJenningsofWaikauriBay.TheisolationfacedbytheYoungandJonesfamilieswassymbolisedbythefactthattheYoung’snewhouseincorporatedaflagpoleontopofthefrontverandah(seeFigure19).Iftheywantedapassingsteamertostoptopickupproduceorpassengerstheywouldrunupaflag.WhileatTāwharanuiJamesandAlicehadafurtherfourchildren,althoughsadlytwoofthem,bothgirls,weretodiesoonafterbirth.EllieYoungdiedinDecember1901andJuneYoungdiedinFebruary1910.BothinfantswereburiedonMatatūahuPoint(seeFigure12)bywhatisnowtheparkentranceatthewesternendofJonesBay.Thefreesiasplantedontheirgravescanstillbeseentoday.

Matatūahu,meaning‘theheadlandplaceofritual’,hadobviouslybeensacredtoMāori,andthe1870TāwharanuiMāorilandplanshowsamarkedgraveonthepoint(seeFigure15).ItisofinterestthattheYounginfantswereburiedbesidewhataresaid

tobethegravesoffourFrenchsailors.EdgarYoung,sonofJamesandAliceYoungrecalledthisinterestingstoryaboutaneventwhichstillremainsamystery.

“DadtoldmeitwasaFrenchwarshipputtinguptrigstations(surveying)…roundthe1900s…theywentdown(KawauBay)inthemorning.MyfatherandMr.Daywerefencinguponthehillandintheafternoontheysawthemsailingbackup…theythoughttheymusthavetakenthesaildownbecausenexttimetheylookedtheycouldn’tseethemanywhere.Nextdaysailorsoffthewarshipcameandaskedthemifthey’dseenthemandtheytoldthemjustwheretheyhadseenthemlast.IneveraskedDadwheretheyfoundthem…theyburiedthemonourpointthere,rightagainsttheboundarybetweenusandMrs.Jones.Justupabout20feetwhereyoucoulddigadecenthole.”(EdgarYoung,June1990:8)

LivingbesidetheYoungfamilyweretheJonesfamilywhosettledatShingleBay,TāwharanuiinDecember1898.DavidJoneswasaWelshmanwhohademigratedtoNewZealandasa13yearoldin1864.

James and Alice Young’s first home at ‘Shingle Bay’, Tāwharanui, 1898, Leo Young album Figure18

Figure19The Young family on the verandah of their new house (1914), with flagpole on verandah, Leo Young album

20 21

JoneshadbeenamanganesemineronWaihekeIslandwherehemarriedalocalgirlEffieMcLeod.Inthelate19thcenturyheoperatedafirewoodandtimberbusinessfromFreemansBay,Auckland.ItwasthroughthisbusinessthathecameintocontactwiththeMartinfamilyandultimatelyarrangedaleasewithrightofpurchaseovertheTāwharanuiproperty.TheleasewasbackedbytheMayorofAucklandDavidGoldiewhoownedtheOceanicSawmillatFreeman’sBayandwasinterestedinmillingtheremainingtimberfromTāwharanui.

DavidandEffieJonesandtheirfivechildrensettledintheoldMartincottagewithbrightprospectsaheadofthem.“Thomas,EllisandDonaldhadawholefuturemappedoutforthemtofellthefirewood,kauri,posts,battens,shinglesandflax.”(ErrolJones,1989:2).Sadlyhowever,onlythreemonthsaftertheirarrival,tragedystrucktheJonesfamilyon28March1899.

“Itwasnoticedthatsheepwerestrandedbyarisingtideastheymovedalongthecoast(byElephantPoint),soDavid,hisonlygirlLaura,aged12,andtheyoungestRobert,togetherwithafarmassistantJohnDayrowedinaflatbottomedpunttorescuethesheep.Thepuntgratedonareefintheswellandtheboatoverturned.JohnDayrescuedtheyoungboybutDavidandhisdaughterweredrowned.”(Ibid.)

Althoughstrickenwithgrief,EffieJoneshadlittlechoicebuttocarryonwiththeleaseassistedbyJohnDayandafriendMargaretGordonwhocamefromWaiheketohelp.By1900,withthehelpofherfoursonsThomas(20),JohnEllis(19),Donald(17)andRobert(11),EffieJoneshaddevelopedasuccessfulfarmbasedonaflockof600sheep.ByFebruary1902shehadsufficientmoneyforadeposittobuythepropertyfromtheMartinEstate.

The Jones family c.1896, E. Jones, Fred Marshall album Figure20

Althoughsurveyedin1901,theroadwasnotformedouttoTāwharanuiuntil1915,anditwasoftenimpassableinthewet.AsaresultalmostallsuppliesandproducefromtheJonesandYoungfamilyfarmswastransportedinandoutbycoastalsteamersliketheKawau(seeFigure22),KōtitiandŌrewa.TreeswerefelledonthepropertybylocalcontractorslikeHenryGreenandhauledtoJonesBayasShingleBayhadbecomeknown.TheywerethenraftedandtowedtoAucklandbythesteamerRimu.Scowscameupontothebeachtoloadstockfromtemporaryyardserectedthere,andalsotoloadshinglewhichEffieJoneshadbeguntoselltoAucklandfirmslikeJ.J.CraigLtd.

TheoftenroughseasoffJonesBaymusthaveremindedEffieJonesandherfamilyoftheirtragicloss,inparticularassailingshipscontinuedtosinkwithinviewofJonesBay.

On15November1904thescowWaipūwaswreckedjusteastofScowPoint.

On19September1907thecutterEleanorwaswreckedatBluebellPoint,andthenon30September1908the63tonschoonerZiorstrandednearElephantPointbecomingatotalwreck.

Bythemid1900sDonald,ThomasandEllisJoneshadleftthefarmtoseektheirfortuneselsewhere,withtheyoungestboyRobertremainingatTāwharanuitohelphismother.Inmid1907EffieJonessoldthelandwestofPukenihinihiPoint,includingŌmahaSpit,toJohnWilsonwhowishedtotakesandandshellfromthecoastlineforuseinhisWarkworthcementworksandconcreteconstructionbusiness.WiththemoneyfromthissaleEffiewasabletofreeholdtherestofthepropertyandalsotofinancetheconstructionofanewhomesteadforhersonElliswhoreturnedtoTāwharanuiwithhisfamilytorunthefarm.

In1912EllisJonesbuilttheimpressiveJoneshomesteadwhichstillstandsnearthepark

AviewofJonesBayc.1920.JonesHomesteadandcowshedinforeground,MartinHomesteadandboatshedinbackground,withthescowJaneGiffordtakingonshingleonthebeach.FredMarshallalbum Figure21

22 23

entrancetoday(privateresidence).HeusedtimbermilledfromthepropertyandalsofromthekaurilogsthatbrokefreefromraftsandwashedupontheTāwharanuicoastline.

EffieJonesandhersonRobertremainedlivingintheoldMartinCottagebehindtheJonesBayforeshore.AfteronlythreeyearsEllisJonespurchasedhisownpropertyatMatakana.RobertJonesmarriedandalsopurchasedapropertyatMatakanaandEffieputtheTāwharanuipropertyupforsale.ItwassoldtoWilliamSinclairfromMaukuon20April1917.TheJonesfamilyremainedinthedistrictwhereDavidandEffieJonesstillhavemanydescendants.InthemeantimetheYoungfamilywastoremainontheneighbouringpropertyforanother35years.

a succession of owners 1917 - 1925WilliamSinclairwasthefirstofasuccessionofpeoplewhoweretoowntheTāwharanuipropertyoverthenextdecade.Allcontinuedtouseitasanextensivegrazingrun,althoughmanurewasnotappliedandpasturequalitydeclined.TomakeendsmeetseveralownerssoldshinglefromtheJonesBayforeshore,aswellasvastquantitiesoffirewoodtoAucklandfirmslikeJ.J.CraigandWinstones.SinclaironlyownedthepropertyforoneyearbutinthattimeusedalocalMāorifamily,theAstles,todraintheextensiveflatsbehindthedunesonthenorthcoast.

On9May1918TawharanuiwassoldtoWalterCareyofTeKōwhaiintheWaikatowhointurnsoldthepropertytoFrankThompsonofŌrinion8July1920.TheexperienceofThompson,whofarmedthelandforfouryears,typifiedtheproblemsfacedbyownersofthepropertyinthisperiod.Hefaceddecliningpasturequalityandsignificanttransportdifficultiesingettingmanureandothermaterialstotheproperty,andsendingstockoutbyscowfromweatherdependantJonesBay.In1924,whenheonlyreceived£5forfatsteersthathehadpurchasedfor£10asyearlings,ThompsonwasforcedtorelinquishthepropertytoCareywhostillheldthemortgage,

the Hydes – 1925-1940InFebruary1925TāwharanuiwassoldtoWilliamHydeofKaikouraintheSouthIsland.HydeandhiswifeElizabethbuiltupaherdofShorthorncattleandRomneysheep,andlikepreviousownerssoldfirewoodandshinglebycontract.WilliamHydecertainlybroughtchangetothefarmandthedistrictasrecalledbyLeoYoung.

“WilliamHydewasthefirstinthedistricttoowna2-standmotorizedshearing

standwhichcausedalotofexcitementamongthelocals,(and)wasthefirstinthedistricttointroducekikuyu(aSouthAfricangrass).Hebrought4plantsbackfromanagriculturalshowinAuckland.Williamgavegrandfather(JamesYoung)2plantsandtoldhimtotakespecialcareofthemasitwasgoingtobethegrassofthefuture.GrandfatherplantedhisplantsdownbytheforeshorenearMatatüahuPoint,whileWilliamplantedhisplantsoutnearAnchorBeach.”(LeoYoung,2004)

Thefarmwasuneconomicduringtheeconomicdepressionoftheearly1930sandWilliamHydereliedlargelyonearningsfromshingleroyaltiestofunditsdevelopment.Followinghisdeathin1937,thepropertywastransferredtohisbrotherHerbert.

BertHyde,likehisbrother,wasrememberedasa‘gentlemanfarmer’whohadimpeccablemannersandtreatedthefarmstaffwithrespect.UnderHyde’smanagementpasturesandfencingwereextendedandimproved,andby1939hehadbuiltupaflockof850breedingewesandgrazedapproximately250cattle.BertHydewasassistedbyashepherd,amarriedcoupletoundertakefarmandhousework,anditinerantfarm

shipwrecks on the tāwharanui coastline Between1871and1978ninevesselsareknowntohavecometogriefonorneartheTāwharanuicoastlinewiththelossoffourlives.Thisdoesnotincludethecurrentlyunidentifiedmystery‘wreck’withthelossoffourlivesasdescribedearlier.

• 28May1871–the15tonschoonerJuliawaswreckedatTokatūPointwiththelossofonelife.Theexactpositionofthewreckiscurrentlyunknown.

• 4June1875–the16toncutterJuliawaswreckedonTokatūReefwithnolossoflife.Theexactpositionofthewreckiscurrentlyunknown.

• 4June1879–the29toncutterPhoenix,struckPhoenixReefonthenorthcoastandbrokeup.

• 28March1899–anunnamedpuntownedbytheJonesfamilysankoffElephantPointwiththelossoftwolives.

• 15November1904–the42tonschooner-riggedscowWaipūwaswreckedatthe‘ShagRoost’near‘ScowPoint’.

• 19September1907–the22toncutterEleanorstruckMāoriRockoffBluebellPointandbecameatotalloss.

• 30September1908–the63tonschoonerZiorstrandedjusteastofElephantPointandlaterbrokeup.

• 6November1950–thefishingtrawlerCometwaswreckedonCometRocks,MainBeach.

• 19July1978–thefishingvesselGoldenBellewaswreckednearTokatūPointwiththelossofonelife.

MainsourceNewZealandShipwrecks1795-1982,C.W.N.Ingram1984

EdgarYoungshippingwooloutfromJonesBaytotheSSKawau,1935,LeoYoungalbum Figure22

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labourerswhocarriedoutfencinganddrainagework.Asignificantproportionofthefarm’sincomecontinuedtocomefromthesaleofshingletoWinstonesatninepencepercubicyard.ThisshinglewasscoopedintoheapsonthebeachbyneighbourEdgarYoungandthenloadedbymechanicalgrabsontoscows.HydealsoemployedtwomenWallyandMactocutmānukafirewoodfrom‘WoodcuttersPaddock’onthepeninsula.ThesetwocharacterslivedinanīkauwhareinlandofBluebellPoint(seeFigure23).Thefirewoodwastransportedtotheclifftopbyhorseandsledthensentdownalongtimberchutetothebeachbelowwhereitwasloadedontoscowsbyhand.

BertHyde’sshepherdwasPeterThornton,anoldstylebushmanandstockmanfromTangiterōria.In1939thefarm’smarriedcouplewereJ.T.‘Jack’andMelvilleDiamondwhocametothefarmonagovernmentsubsidizedagriculturaltrainingscheme.Jack,whowasnewtofarming,learned

thebasicskillsfromPeterThorntonandundertookawidevarietyoftasksafterlearninghowtorideahorseandtouseahorseandsled.Melville,whowasacitygirl,capablyfilledherposition,onceshehadmasteredthelargeandtemperamentalcoalrange.ItwasherjobtocookforHydeandthefarmworkersasrequired,andtocleanthelargeJoneshomesteadwhichtheHydeshadrenovated.MelvilleoftenhadtocookforvisitorsatshortnoticewhichwasadifficulttaskasbasicsupplieswereofteninshortsupplyandhadtobecollectedfromChristianBay,afourmile(6.4km)horserideaway.

JackDiamond(laterbeawardedtheMBEforservicestolocalhistory)andhiswifeMelvilleworkedlonghoursbutenjoyedtheirtimeoffasMelvillerecalled–

“Sundaywasusuallyourdayoff,andwehadthebeautifulrockycoastline,thebeachesandhillstowanderaround,plustheaddedinterestinfindingevidenceofMāoritimesinthearea.Jackdiscovered

thatthetarpaulinwhichcoveredthehaystackwaskeptinplacewiththehelpofMāorianchorstones(seeFigure5)tiedonropesinvariousplaces.Nobodyelsewasinterestedinsuchthingssohereplacedseveralwithlessinterestingweightsandwhenthefamilyvisitedushehadseveraltransportedbackhome.Withthepebblybeachatourfrontdooritwasgoodtotakeadipinthesummereveningswhenwewerefree.Weoccasionallydidalittlefishing,notwithgreatsuccessuntiloneafternoon,notfeelingveryenergeticIreclinedinacosyhollowonthebeach,tiedmyfishinglineontomybigtoeanddreamedthetimeaway,untilgreatexcitementsomethingwasonmyline.FromthenonIcouldtellofthelargesnapperIhadcaught.”(M.Diamond,undated:7-8)

later owners 1940-1973On31October1940BertHydesoldthepropertytoTheodoreHodgesanAucklandbasedpropertydeveloper,althoughHyderetainedatwentyyearrighttomineshingle

ontheproperty.Hodgescontinuedtousethepropertyasanextensivegrazingrunandbuiltupthesheepflock.Healsoimprovedtheswampyflatswiththeintroductionofaproperlysurveyeddrainagesystem.In1943hedemolishedtheoldMartincottageandusedmuchofthetimber,andtheproceedsfromawinattheraces,tobuildanewshearingshedwhichisstillbeingusedbytheARC.

On9December1943TāwharanuiwassoldtoWilliamIngramaretireddentistthenlivingonKawauIsland.(Thecoverphotoshowsthepropertyinthatyear)AtthistimetheoceanbeachwasusedbylargenumbersofUSsoldiersundertakingtrainingforbeachlandingsinthePacific.ThepaddockwheretheyestablishedtheirtentcampisstillknownasCampPaddock.WilliamIngram’smarrieddaughterEleanoreaccompaniedhimtoTāwharanuiasherhusbandwastheninaPOWcampinItaly,havingbeentakenprisonerinEgypt.Eleanorerecentlyrecalledthefamily’stoughbutenjoyablethreeyearstay,asfollows,

J.T.(Jack)Diamondandfirewoodsledge,HomeBay,Tāwharanui,1939J.R.Diamondcollection Figure24

FirewoodcuttersWallyandMacwithMelvilleDiamondbytheirwhare,1940,WaitākereLibraryandInformationServices,J.T.DiamondCollection,749.1 Figure23

26 27

“FromKawauweweretakeninCaptainJockMcKinnon’sscowRāhiriwithallourfurniture,twocows,andahorseandlandedontheshinglebeachbelowthehomestead–areallyexcitingperformance!Thenourneighbour,EdgarYoung,withhishorsesandsledge,transportedourbelongingstothehouse…ItwaswaryearsandwewereonasmallpetrolallowancewhichonlyallowedustogotoMatakanaformailandsuppliesonceaweek,whilsttheYoungsdidasimilartripweekly…Wekilledourownsheepformeatandseparatedsomeofthemilktomakebutterfromthecream,shotrabbitsfordogtucker,kepthensandIsoonhadalargevegetablegarden…WehadblackpolledAnguscattle,Romneysheepandthreeridinghorses.Adieselenginegaveafewhoursofelectriclightbutthelargewoodburningstoveinthekitchenprovidedamplehotwater…GuyAshtonandhismatecamefor3-4daysshearing–averybusytimewhenmydaycommencedwithmilkingcows.Thenitwasaconstantmanagementofmealsandteabreaksuntilafterdinner.Cribbagegamesweretheentertainment.NoTVofcourse!Notabrightsociallifeasvisitorscameinfrequentlybutalwaysenjoyedsummerswimmingonthemagnificentbeaches”.(E.Clark,TOSSInewsletterNo.9,2004)

BecauseofillhealthWilliamIngramsoldthepropertytoPeterSchickfromŌriniintheWaikatoon4November1946.SchickandhissonsranAnguscattleandRomneysheeponthepropertyandgrewpumpkinsandjammelonswhichweretruckedtotheAucklandmarket.TheyalsocutlargequantitiesoffirewoodfromthepeninsulaafterbuildingaconcretebridgeacrossthestreamatAnchorBaywhichprovidedtruckaccessouttothePoint.

InMay1952SchickpurchasedthemajorityoftheneighbouringpropertywhichhadbeenfarmedbytheYoungfamilyfor54years,becomingthefirstpersontoownallofthe

landthatnowmakesupTāwharanuiRegionalPark.EdgarYoung(1905-1996)hadtakenthefarmoverfromhisfatherJamesin1938.Inearliertimeshehadcutfirewoodforsale,haddonethebackbreakingjobofloadingshinglefromWaikauriandJonesBayontoscows,andhadcarriedoutthelocalmailrun1925-37.EdgarandhiswifeIsabellanowmadetheirmainlivingbysellingcreamfromaherdoffiftydairycows.TheymadethedecisiontosellthefarmwhereEdgarhadlivedsincechildhoodbecauseitwasdifficulttorunthehomeandfarm,whilealsotryingtoeducatetheirfourschoolagesonsbycorrespondence.In1952theYoungfamilymovedtoWarkworthwheretheysettledbesidetheschool,hadanothersonChristopher,andexperiencedtheluxuryofelectricityforthefirsttime.

On12February1954PeterSchicksoldthe1453acres(588ha.)TāwharanuipropertytoKeithGeorgettiwhohadpreviouslypurchasedtheSchickpropertyatŌrini.KeithGeorgettiwasacapablefarmerwhohad

servedforseveraltermsontheexecutiveoftheSheepownersFederationandFederatedFarmers(Waikato).WiththehelpofhissonsPeterandTonyhesetaboutamajorupgradeofthefarm.Tenmilesoffencingwasrenewed,scrubwascut,andtherusheswhichhadtakenovertheflatsweremown.Mostimportantlyanairstripwasconstructedonthepeninsulain1956.Asaresultofaerialtopdressingpasturequalitywassignificantlyimprovedforthefirsttime,sothatby1958Tāwharanuiwaswintering200Herefordcattle,600drysheepand1500Romney-Cheviotcross(laterPerendale)breedingewes.InthisperiodtheGeorgettifamilyshippedintwofarmworkerscottages.(TheonethatisnowtheParkofficewasformerlyawarder’shouseatMt.Edenprison)KeithGeorgettialsoundertookmajorrenovationoftheoldJoneshomesteadandbuiltthestonewallwhichisstillafeatureofitsfrontage.

shingle extraction and the creation of the lagoonShinglehadbeentakenfromthe‘ShingleBay’foreshorebytheMartinfamilyandtransportedtoAucklandintheirownvesselsfromthe1870s.AntonioMartinwasparticularlyproudofthefactthatshinglefromthebaywasusedintheconstructionofSt.Patrick’sCathedral,Auckland.AllsubsequentownersofthepropertyuntilBertHydecontinuedtosellshinglefromthebayandsandfromtheMainBeachtoAucklandmerchantsonaroyaltybasis.ThroughouttheperiodthatshinglewastakenfromtheJonesBayforeshoreitwastransportedbyflatbottomedsailingscowswhichcamerightupontothebeachatlowtide.

OneofthesevesselswastheJaneGifford(seeFigures21and27)ownedbyReg

LookingnorthtoAnchorBayc.1943whentheMangatāwhiriStreamstillmeanderedacrosstheflatsbeforethecreationofthelagoon,LeoYoungalbum,TudorCollinsphotograph Figure26

EleanoreClark(neeIngram)andherpets,E.ClarkAlbum Figure25

28 29

Collinsfrom1917-1937.AcrewmemberonthisandotherscowsintheearlydayswasTudorCollins(1896-1969),theyoungerbrotherofRegandanidentityintheMatakanaarea.Herecalledthedifficultprocessofloadingshingleontotheoldsailingscows.

“Itwashardworkshovelinginthosedays,withnomachinestodothework…Wehadtowaituntilthetidehadgoneoutfortwohoursandthenpullthescowbroadsidetothebeachforloading.Assoonasthescowhitthebeach,alltheropeswerepulledtightsoshecouldn’tmove.Thenthebigmainplankwasputdowntothebeach,aswellassomesmallerones,sothattwentyorthirtybarrowloadsofshinglecouldbewheeledaboard…Weusedtotravelaboutachain(around20m.)alongthebeachtogetshingle…Whenloadingwasfinisheda

greatholewasleftinthebeach,buttheincomingtidewouldsoonfillitin…Withloadingcompletedandthetidecomingin,wewouldpullalloftheplanksaboardandlaythemontopoftheshingle,sothatwecouldwalkonthemwhilepreparingthesails.Wewerewhollydependentonthewindsaswellasthetides…Anaverageloadwas50to56yards.”(MemoirsofaScowman,TheJaneGiffordSociety,undated:2)

Inthelate1950sshingleextractionintensifiedatJonesBay,Tāwharanui.BertHydehadretainedacaveatoverthepropertytoextractshingleuntilhisdeathin1959,buthadearliercometoanagreementwithLanceJulianandhissonHarryofGulfFreightersLtd.(laterAucklandWaterTransportLtd.)toextractshinglefromthelowerMangatāwhiriStreamvalley.Boostedbymajorcontractsassociatedwiththeconstructionofthe

ThescowJaneGiffordwithRegCollinsalongside,1926,fromT.Ashby1975 Figure27

AucklandHarbourBridge,amajorshinglequarryingandprocessingoperationdevelopedontheflatsinlandfromtheMangatāwhiriStreammouthatthenorthernendofJonesBay.Theoperationwasstaffedfulltimebythreemenwho,alongwiththeirfamilies,livedinseveralcottagesbuiltbehindthedunes(seeFigure29).Shinglewaspumpedfromasmalllakeontheflatstoacrusherandscreenslocatedbehindthebeach.ThegravelwasthenprocessedtothemixrequiredandpumpedouttoseveraloldhulksfromwhichitwasloadedontobargesforexporttoAucklandandelsewhere.Inlateryearstheprocessedgravelwastransportedoutalonga450metreconveyor(seeFigure28)directlytowaitingbargesloadingonalltides.

In1964HarryJuliansoldhalfhismaritimebusinessintereststotheoverseasownedDillinghamCorporationwhichcontinuedtoextractshingleatJonesBayuntil1967.Onthecompletionofshingleextraction,theplant,andbreakwaterwereremovedfromthesite.ThisallowedtheGeorgettifamilytoonceagainliveinpeaceandquiet,anditleftbehindtheJonesBaylagoon(seeFigure29)whichisnowthehometolargenumbersofwildfowlandisavaluedrecreationalarea.Tāwharanuicontinuedtobefarmed

bytheGeorgettifamilyintothelate1960s,withmorelandbeingdevelopedandstocknumbersincreased.

tāwharanui regional park – purchase and early developmentTheAucklandHarbourBridge(opened1959),satonmassiveconcretepiersconstructedfromgravelextractedfromJonesBay,Tāwharanui.Thebridgealsohadanindirect,butultimatelymoreimportantlinkwithTāwharanui,asitstimulatedrapidurbangrowthontheNorthShore.ThenewlycreatedAucklandRegionalAuthority(ARA)quicklybecameconcernedwiththeassociatedgrowthinapplicationsforthesubdivisionofprimecoastallandontheeasterncoastlinewithinWaitematāandRodneycountiesfurthertothenorth.Inordertopreservethesehighqualitycoastallandscapesandpublicaccesstothecoastline,theARAbegantodeveloparegionalparksnetworkthroughtheacquisitionofWenderholm(1965),LongBay(1965)andShakespear(1967)regionalparks.

In1967theARAbeganlookingatpossibleregionalparkacquisitionsintheareanorthofMatakanaasdevelopmentproposalswerebeginningtoariseinthedistrict.Inthe

ThederelictmetalconveyorandhulkoftheformernavalminesweeperT140Sandra,JonesBay,1969,FredMarshallalbum Figure28

30 31

sameyearthe121ha.FraserpropertyonŌmahaSpitwasofferedtotheARA,andtheAuthoritybeganinvestigatingthepurchaseofthisandotherlargecoastalpropertiesinthearea‘forrecreationalpurposes’.InMay1968theGeorgettipropertyat‘TakatuPoint’wasofferedforsaletotheARAonacashbasisbutapricecouldnotbeagreedon.TheARAindicatedthatitwantedtopurchasethepropertyanditwasformallydesignatedasaproposedregionalreserveinlate1969.Wishingtoshowthedevelopmentpotentialoftheland,theGeorgettifamilyhadplansdrawnupforamajorresidentialandresortdevelopmentonthepropertyin1972.Althoughprotractednegotiationsbetweenthetwopartiescontinuedforsometime,theARAwasabletotakepossessionofthepropertyon20December1973.

TheparkwasinitiallyreferredtoasTakatuRegionalReserve,althoughinearly1974

theARAresolvedtoformallynameitTāwharanuiRegionalReserve,asitwasmore‘geographicallyappropriate’and“amoreeuphoniousword”.(ARAFile2397,23April1974).AdecisionwastakentodevelopTāwharanuiasa‘CoastalFarmPark’andFredMarshallwasappointedasFarmManager,laterParkSuperintendent,apositionhewastofillfor16years,ablyassistedbyhiswifeLynetteatrainedKāritanenurse.

Inthefirstphaseofdevelopment,whenFredwasassistedbyRangerJoeBuckton,effortwasfocusedonthedevelopmentofthefarmandassociatedfacilities.TheJoneshomesteadandfarmbuildingswererenovated,40kmoffencinginstalled,drainsandroadingweresignificantlyupgraded,andacausewaywasconstructedtogivebetteraccesstoAnchorBay.InthisperiodahighqualityHerefordcattleherd(seeFigure30)

JonesBay,TāwharanuiwhentheARAtookpossession,December1973,shingleworkerscottagesintheforeground,workerscottagesandshearingshedbeyond,‘JonesHomestead’intheleftbackground,andlagoonontheright.ARC Figure29

andPerendalesheepflockwerebuiltup,andtheyardsandshearingshedimproved.Theparkwasopenedtovisitorsforshortperiodsfromthesummerof1974-75,althoughitwasnotuntil1985thatitwasopenedonayearroundbasis.

Inthemid1980sthesecondphaseofparkdevelopmentbeganwithagreaterfocusonvisitorfacilitiesandtheenhancementoftheenvironmentalvaluesofthepark.FredMarshallwasnowassistedbyRangerColinWards(1985-present)andNeilEast(1988-1994).Importantimprovementsinthisperiodincluded:theinstallationofawatersupplydamtoserviceincreasedfarmandvisitorneeds,anupgradeofthewoolshed,theconstructionofaworkshop,thecreationofacampground,theinstallationofan

informationkioskatAnchorBay,andamenityplantingsundertakenaroundcarparkareas.On30July1981NewZealand’sfirstMarineParkwascreatedonthenortherncoastline,andthe‘EcologyTrail’wasestablishedin1989.

recent yearsFrom1992-1998TāwharanuiparkdevelopmentwasledbySeniorRangerKevinBealsunderthesupervisionofPrincipalRangerMathewVujcich.Inthisperiodtheparkwasformallymanagedasa‘remotepark’withanemphasisonretainingtheopenparksetting,promotingremotenature-basedrecreationalactivities,andactivelyenhancingthepark’secology.Asignpostedtracknetworkandamountainbiketrail

FarmParkCo-ordinatorTrevorWadamsandParkSuperintendentFredMarshall,withTāwharanui’sHerefordbreedingherd,1989,FredMarshallalbum Figure30

32 33

werecompleted,thecampgroundwasextended,andecologicalrestorationworkwassignificantlyincreased.Gullies,sidlings,andnativeforestremnantswerefenced,andrestorationworkbeganonthe‘CampgroundWetland’,withtheresultthateffectivepasturelandwasreducedto180ha.Fromthemid1990supto10,000nativeplantswereplantedannuallybyschoolchildrenandcommunityvolunteers.LongservingrangersinthisperiodincludedMauricePuckett(1994-present)andRobMouldey(1997-2007).

the open sanctuaryFrom1995theconceptofdevelopingTāwharanuiasa‘mainlandisland’wasexploredbytheARC,althoughalwaysasan‘opensanctuary’whichcombinedecologicalrestorationwiththeoperationofaworkingfarm,andtheretentionoffullpublicaccessandafullrangeofrecreationalopportunities.TheARCapprovedthedevelopmentofthe

TāwharanuiOpenSanctuary(TOS)in1999,andin2002JoRitchiewasappointedastheprojectco-ordinator.Theinitialphaseinvolvedfundraising,extensivebaselinemonitoring,followedbytheconstructionofa2.5kmpredatorprooffencefromJonesBaytothenortherncoast,andtheinstallationofabufferpestcontrolnetworkoutsidethefence.ThiswasfollowedbyanaerialpoisondroptoremovepredatorsSeptember-October2004.Allmammalianpestsexceptmicewereremovedfromthesanctuary.From2005ongoinghabitatenhancementhasbeenundertaken,withafocusonwetlandrestorationandtheplantingandseedingofpreviouslyfencedareas.

Followingtheremovalofmajorpredators,existingnativereptileandbirdspeciesgrewrapidlyinnumbers,withthebellbirdre-introducingitselffromHauturu(LittleBarrierIsland).Thisperiodalsosawthere-introductionofarangeof‘missing’bird,reptileandplantspecies,withthehighlight

todatebeingthepublicreleaseof40NorthIslandbrownkiwi2006-07.ThislatterspecieshadbeenmissingfromTāwharanuifor62years.(EdgarYounghadkeptthelastknownkiwiintheareaasapet,beforereleasingitonKawauIslandin1944,pers.com.L.Young,2008).TāwharanuiRegionalParkwasfinallyofficiallyopenedasanOpenSanctuarybyARCChairmanMikeLeeon19March2006.

AkeyfeatureoftheTOSprojectfromthebeginninghasbeenthatithasbeenundertakenbyARCParksandHeritagestaffinpartnershipwithheritageagencies,tertiaryeducationalinstitutions,tangatawhenua,schools,businesspartners,andmostimportantlythecommunitybasedTāwharanuiOpenSanctuaryInc.(TOSSI).FormedinMarch2002,TOSSIhasplayedamajorroleinfundraising,monitoring,pestcontrol,educationandplanting.TOSSInowhasamembershipofjustover400,hasitsownwebsite,runsplantingandworkdays,the‘ArtintheWoolshed’event,andin2006openeditsownplantnursery

onthepark.TheTOShasprovidedanationallyacclaimedbestpracticeexampleofco-operationbetweenlocalgovernmentandthecommunityinundertakingamajorecologicalrestorationproject.

After35yearsinpublicownershipTāwharanuiRegionalParkhasbecomeaspecialplacetoAucklanders,andtovisitorsfromallovertheworld.Itisaplacenotedforitsrelativeisolationattheendofametalroad,itsstunninglandscapesandexpansivecoastalvistas,aswellasitsincreasingnaturalvaluesandwiderangingrecreationalopportunities.Abovealltheparkisvaluedasanintegrated‘OpenSanctuary’whereconservation,farmingandrecreationtakeplacetogether,andwherethecommunityandtangatawhenuaaredirectlyinvolvedinthepark’srestorationanddevelopment.ItishopedthatthisbookletwillhelpthelongandrichhumanhistoryofTāwharanuitobecomebetterknownandincreasinglyvalued,foritshistorymirrorsthehistoryofourregionandournation.Thepredator-prooffence2004,ARC Figure31

TheofficialopeningofTäwharanuiRegionalParkasanopensanctuary,19March2006.HamishAlexander,ChairofTOSSI,CrSandraConeyandARCChairmanMikeLee. Figure32

34 35

our secret hideoutbyStephenGilbert,aged8,(2005)

Acampinggroundreallyclosetothebeach,Soft,whitesand,crawlingtothewhitehorses,Greeny-bluewaterhittingthesandhard,Flatrockisourdivingplacefullofshrimpsandcrabs,Bush,behindthebeach,

packedwithnativesforyouramazement,Asyouareslidingdownthegrassyhills,

oncardboardyoucometoabumpandflyoff,Täwharanui......sshhhhh,Don’ttellanyoneaboutit.

ThecampgroundatMainBeach,1988ARC Figure33

36

Thisbookletwaswrittenin2008byGraemeMurdochbasedonhisresearchundertaken1988/2008.TheauthorwouldparticularlyliketoacknowledgethecontributionsofthelateHamueraBrownandJackBrownofNgātiManuhiri,thelateGordonPongaDaviesofNgātiRehua,thelateEdgarYoung,thelateJohn(Jack)T.DiamondMBE,thelateMelvilleDiamond,MookHohneck,JohnR.Diamond,LeoYoung,ErrolJones,FredandLynetteMarshall,Mrs.EleanoreClark,AlisonStanesofTOSSI,aswellasstafffromtheWarkworth&DistrictsMuseum,theWaitākereCityLibrary&InformationServices-J.T.DiamondCollection,theARCCulturalHeritageteamandARCRegionalParks.

www.arc.govt.nz

TOSSIorganizedplantingday,May2008.A.Stanesphoto Figure34

‘OurHistory’isabookletseriesproducedbytheAucklandRegionalCouncil(ARC).Itispartofaculturalheritageinitiativeestablishedtoprovideinformationaboutlocalhistoryandregionallysignificanthistoricresources.

For further visitor information:

• ContacttheAucklandRegionalCouncilph:093662000

• VisittheAucklandRegionalCouncilwebsitewww.arc.govt.nz

For further reading and historical information:

JadeRiver:AHistoryoftheMahurangi,R.H.Locker,2001

TheRockandtheSky-theStoryofRodneyCounty,H.Mabbett,1977

Visit the TOSSI websitewww.tossi.org.nz

Visit the Warkworth and District Museum websitewww.wwmuseum.orconhosting.net.nz

Heritage Site

MAP KEY

Walking Tracks Lookout site Camping Information

Cover image: Jones Bay, Tāwharanui, 1943, Leo Young album, Tudor Collins photograph.

Täwharanui Timeline

Täwharanui Regional Park

1200s Mäori occupation of Tāwharanui begins.

Mid 1400s people from the Tainui and Moekākara canoes arrive in the district.

1700s conflict between the tribes of Mahurangi-Matakana and the Hauraki tribes.

1821 Captain Downie notes Tāwharanui on map of east coastline.

1825 musket raids, Ngāti Manuhiri and Ngāti Raupō in exile for a decade.

Today1841 Crown purchase Ōmaha & Mahurangi block from Hauraki tribes.

Mid 1600s battle of ‘Huruhuruwaea’ – the Te Kawerau descendants of Manuhiri and Maeaeariki settle in the district.

1839 ‘Point Rodney’ land block sold by Ngāti Paoa to William Webster.

1853 ‘Native reserve’ recognized by the Crown at Tāwharanui.

1873/75 Tāwharanui land investigated by Native Land Court and most sold to Atkinson. Ngāti Raupō and Ngāti Manuhiri retain Mangatāwhiri No.3.

1877 Antonio Martin purchases Tāwharanui and Mangatāwhiri No.s 1&2 blocks.

1898 David Jones leases Martin property and James Young leases Mangatāwhiri No.3 block from Ngāti Manuhiri.

1908 Essie Jones purchases Tāwharanui from Martin Estate.

1917 Jones family sell Tāwharanui.

1925-1940 Tāwharanui owned by Hydes, large scale shingle extraction begins.

1946 Peter Schick purchases Tāwharanui

1952 Young family sell Mangatāwhiri No.3 so Peter Schick becomes first European owner of all of what is now Tāwharanui Regional Park.

1954 Georgetti family purchase Tāwharanui, reticulated electricity arrives.

Late 1950s-1967 a major shingle extraction operation creates the lagoon.

1864 escaped prisoners from Kawau Island come ashore at Māori Bay.

December 1973 the ARA takes possession of Tāwharanui Regional Park.

1981 New Zealand’s first Marine Protection Area is created on the north coast.

1985 campground opened.

1989 Ecology Trail opened.

1999 preparatory work for Open Sanctuary commences.

2002 community partnership group TOSSI formed.

2004 predator-proof fence completed and poison drops undertaken removing all mammalian predators except mice.

1 March 2006 Tāwharanui Regional Park officially opened as an ‘open sanctuary’.

2006/2007 40 North Island brown kiwi released.